Hey man, this video saves my life. I had this issue where I couldn’t figure out how to install valley flashing diagonally across the shingles, and this video is the answer to that. Thank you so much man!!! You have no idea how much this is going to save my butt!
At 1:30 you started a row of shingles UNDER the flashing. At 2:17 it's gone. Did you mess up? Later at 5:06 you started the row of shingles ON TOP of the flashing. I assume this latter method is correct?
@@RoofRepairSpecialist Appreciate you. What are your thoughts on not having a starter shingle under the valley? Seems unnecessary and causes a bump at the bottom that slows the water, causes pooling, and could even crimp the metal and lead to a fissure.
I can go either way. I definitely dont think it's necessary. I've never felt like it bothered or crimped the valley. But I guess not having it would be better than having it.
I think ur weaving the shingles (Architectural thick one at that too) in an angle downward is a great idea as their edges would guide the rain water downwards. But i wld rather have the W-Flashing widely exposed for more smoother water channeling down. Smashing the center rib where the W-Flashing if it meets the ridge caps for smoother fitting is also a gd idea too. But in many cases, the valley meets the main roof just below the main roof's ridge and a different flashing cutting must b done to meet w the same W-flashing type from the opposite valley.
Comment on the "California" valley. You are putting architectural shingles parallel with the valley. I don't think those shingles are designed to prevent lateral movement (to the shingle) of water. It seems that the double structure of those shingles would allow water to seep through the shingle at those join spots, and also where the shingles abut. Then the only thing that prevents leaks is the metal W valley itself. Is it called a "California" valley because ... it never rains in southern California, so you don't have to worry about it?
Generally we flatten out the Valley flashing and putting a bed of mastic. Then running the ridge cap over that. However it is bit of a case by case depending on the slope of the roof and how they meet.
At the end of your video I noticed an opening at the middle of The Valley where it rises. Is that going to cause a leak or is that blocked off in some way?
If you mean in the middle of the valley flashing, that will not leak. There is underlayment and self adhered membrane under that. Plus it overhangs the roof an inch or two. The only way it'll leak is if you spray a hose in there
He talked about the process right but nailed the shingles on wrong. You should stagger at least 5.5 inches. Some of his were about 1 and 2 inches apart. Also for a short valley like that 1.5- 2 inches center exposure is fine.
This is a explanation on how to do a valley, not how to stagger shingles, nor how to do a small valley. I try to show the relevant aspects per video, not all aspects in all videos.
Look at manufacturer specifications. They usually have specific requirements per climate zone. Going more doesnt hurt. you can go 12-18" to be safe. Definitely have ice and water shield in your valleys.
For what area? we still use starter strip at the bottom. If you mean up the valley instead of going in with a shingle I do not reccomend it for two reasons. 1) You do not want starter shingles to be exposed to the elements. 2) Starter shingles are not wide enough to nail outside the valley.
No pic or video of the finish product at the top where the two valleys would meet. Wonder why that is 😂. Answer: because it wasnt pretty mashed and beaten down with hammers. They prob run the shingle cap right over and up into the roof to try to hide that mangled mess.
Ya exempt ur putting ur nails right at a butt joint where the two shingles meet so that is completely wrong u should have at least 8 inches from a seam In. The shingles
Thanks for watching! Let me know if you prefer installing valley flashing over cut or woven valleys!
This method is incredibly smooth and clean looking! Very Nice!
Thank you very much!
Hey man, this video saves my life. I had this issue where I couldn’t figure out how to install valley flashing diagonally across the shingles, and this video is the answer to that. Thank you so much man!!! You have no idea how much this is going to save my butt!
So glad to hear! good luck on your project.
Great job explaining valley flashing.
Thank you.
Thanks for the video, love the idea for creating a straight shingle line for length of Valley without cutting shingles!
It's the little tricks that help.
Thank you for the detailed video.
Glad it was helpful!
Looks good only thing I noticed was your staggering for your shingles were not minimal 6 inches but love open valley method
Excellent video Best method
Many thanks
Thank you!
My pleasure
Thank you for sharing
My pleasure
Good job guys
Thanks
SO WHEN THE RAIN RUNS DOWN THE VALLEY DOES THE WATER NOT SEEP UNDER THE SHINGLE?
At 1:30 you started a row of shingles UNDER the flashing. At 2:17 it's gone. Did you mess up? Later at 5:06 you started the row of shingles ON TOP of the flashing. I assume this latter method is correct?
Good catch. That was a mistake I forgot I made.
@@RoofRepairSpecialist Appreciate you.
What are your thoughts on not having a starter shingle under the valley? Seems unnecessary and causes a bump at the bottom that slows the water, causes pooling, and could even crimp the metal and lead to a fissure.
I can go either way. I definitely dont think it's necessary. I've never felt like it bothered or crimped the valley. But I guess not having it would be better than having it.
I think ur weaving the shingles (Architectural thick one at that too) in an angle downward
is a great idea as their edges would guide the rain water downwards. But i wld rather
have the W-Flashing widely exposed for more smoother water channeling down.
Smashing the center rib where the W-Flashing if it meets the ridge caps for smoother fitting
is also a gd idea too. But in many cases, the valley meets the main roof just below the
main roof's ridge and a different flashing cutting must b done to meet w the same
W-flashing type from the opposite valley.
Agreed
Comment on the "California" valley. You are putting architectural shingles parallel with the valley. I don't think those shingles are designed to prevent lateral movement (to the shingle) of water. It seems that the double structure of those shingles would allow water to seep through the shingle at those join spots, and also where the shingles abut. Then the only thing that prevents leaks is the metal W valley itself. Is it called a "California" valley because ... it never rains in southern California, so you don't have to worry about it?
Great job! Thumbs up
Thanks a lot!
How are you finishing the top of the open valley flashing? Are you flatting out the W channel at the top or just running the capping over top? thanks
Generally we flatten out the Valley flashing and putting a bed of mastic. Then running the ridge cap over that.
However it is bit of a case by case depending on the slope of the roof and how they meet.
☑️
At the end of your video I noticed an opening at the middle of The Valley where it rises. Is that going to cause a leak or is that blocked off in some way?
If you mean in the middle of the valley flashing, that will not leak. There is underlayment and self adhered membrane under that. Plus it overhangs the roof an inch or two.
The only way it'll leak is if you spray a hose in there
Is sealant needed in the seams of shingles that are going vertical?
No
He talked about the process right but nailed the shingles on wrong. You should stagger at least 5.5 inches. Some of his were about 1 and 2 inches apart. Also for a short valley like that 1.5- 2 inches center exposure is fine.
This is a explanation on how to do a valley, not how to stagger shingles, nor how to do a small valley. I try to show the relevant aspects per video, not all aspects in all videos.
Are the valley's pre-bent valley's you use steel or aluminum out there?
They are pre bent, galvanized steel
Not in Calgary Alberta, those California valleys would not pass inspection
I bet, totally different ball game up there
Is it just a standard 6" overlap if the valley is longer then 1 panel of flashing?
6" overlap is enough. As long as you are in a area that does not have Snow and Ice
@@RoofRepairSpecialist I'm in northeast PA so there is snow. What do you do in that circumstance?
Look at manufacturer specifications. They usually have specific requirements per climate zone. Going more doesnt hurt. you can go 12-18" to be safe.
Definitely have ice and water shield in your valleys.
@@RoofRepairSpecialist thanks for the reply
That valley is only for metal roofing in Florida.
What are you talking about
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you
What about using a starter strip instead of a shingle?
For what area? we still use starter strip at the bottom. If you mean up the valley instead of going in with a shingle I do not reccomend it for two reasons.
1) You do not want starter shingles to be exposed to the elements.
2) Starter shingles are not wide enough to nail outside the valley.
@@RoofRepairSpecialist What about the adhesive type starter shingle?
Also your missing roofing cement. Leaks will happen on that roof now. Trust me!!!
I trust you 🤣 Not
No pic or video of the finish product at the top where the two valleys would meet. Wonder why that is 😂. Answer: because it wasnt pretty mashed and beaten down with hammers. They prob run the shingle cap right over and up into the roof to try to hide that mangled mess.
We’ve got ourselves a sherlock holmes here, lol
Ya exempt ur putting ur nails right at a butt joint where the two shingles meet so that is completely wrong u should have at least 8 inches from a seam In. The shingles
p̷r̷o̷m̷o̷s̷m̷
Yup
Lmmfao…..this is a joke again this stuff is no good in a freeze and thaw area.. you guys never deal with snow and ice I can tell
Good thing we dont have freezing and thawing in southern california
Very clear explanation. Best video on roofing. Thank you.
Wow, thanks!
Sure would have been nice to see the finished peak at the top where the two metal valleys join instead of unfinished beat up smashed junk show.
Why didn't u put the nails on the outside of the clinch? An dont say water is not going to reach all the way
Water is not going to reach all the way :)