Finally, a properly done valley. You're part of the 1% I call roofers. The rest are shinglers who cut corners to save time/money at the expense of quality. I also suggest using "W" valley flashing.
You don’t need to cut those lapping starters like he did and nails should be placed no closer than 2.5 inches from the opening. The thing I don’t like about cutting the metal lengths is that the ends will eventually rust. I cut it straight up the fold to the starter line and bend the two flaps under the starter itself.
all in all a very informative video! one thing we do and maybe its over kill! we add 3 feet ice and water to both sides of metal valleys as well so that nails seal nicer also chalk line going closed to open from top to bottom, maybe old school way i dont know.
So true. When I started roofing in the early 80s it was with some old timers. It was get to the shop at 6am. Then strait to the bar till 10am. But no drinks for me.
The best way to cut valley is to place a shingle or starter under the cuts along the valley lines to prevent scratching if the knife does slip on you from having to cut through the bond line or double thickness. Also when hand banging it’s always better to hit the nail harder than she is so it’s faster and doesn’t look as soft.
Great we have trade schools for HVAC, Electrical, Plumping and Carpentry but not for Roofing I hoping soon I can find a vocational trade school for this particular skill set. Great video
@Dylan Hodgson Agreed I believe of a vocational trade school existed it will encourage more people to enter into the specific niche, because of technology and solar technology this a very promising career opportunities in this industry. Glad I found your channel
At 3:07 to cut the end of the metal flange, wouldn't it b better if u cut say 3" more outward, then bend the edge over the drip edge so water won't back up under the flange? Great video. Thx.
Great "maestro"! Once the valley shingles are installed and cut, is there any glue to use for keeping the shingles resting on the metal valley to be loose? Like your way to teach! I am your new subscriber 😊
I don't like them for personal preference reasons.I just believe there are nicer looking valleys, such as a closed cut valley. That said, each one done properly, will work just fine and won't necessarily leak.
I read that you have to nail only the upper part of the metal sheet and avoid nailing lower because the of the dilatation of the metal sheet would get the nail out ?
Well we add extra tar sealant under the cut shingle ends (near the valley center), since we dont use starter shingles in the valley. Dunno if it's overkill or no. What's your opinion?
(2:20) It is better to pencil the bottom end of the W-Flashing from the bottom side, not from the 'guess' work where the roof-facia edge is from the top.
@@mattk252 I mean if you can get yourself in a good company that doesn't work you like a horse, I don't see why not. Good pay in a few years. Some company's give good benefits too.
There is nothing wrong with roofing. As mentioned previously be sure to find a good company, with good benefits and work smart not hard. Don’t kill your body, there is always an easier way for any physically demanding task.
You have great videos!! Can you show the valley tin fold over at the peak and I know this may be a dumb question but do lay tar paper over all the ice and water because I went to re roof my house and shingles were all stuck to the ice and water!! Not good😕
Informative video! I did commercial roofs in Montreal for 10years and I’ve done a few shingles roofs here and there and I was always shown to use pitch underneath the shingles near the valley… Don’t now if that’s the best way VS your way or not… I’m a bit of a perfectionist so just gotta know! I see that you used three fingers to measure your distance between the center valley and shingle edge… is that code or a good rule of thumb?!? Here’s another video suggestion if it’s not done already…. I’m planning a job for family in two weeks and they got an 10" insulated chimney going through and was wondering about the flashing if I install it underneath shingles the same way as Maximum vent?!? Thanks
Not sure what you mean by “use pitch underneath the valley” but with metal open valleys the general consensus is that at the top of the valley the distance from shingle to center should be about two finger lengths and at the bottom it should be about three finger lengths. A chalk line should be snapped to get a straight line from top to bottom given their different distances from the center and then the starter should be put in according to the line. Hope that helped.
@@jojomarso He said "use pitch underneath THE SHINGLES near the valley." Which means use roof cement under the part of the shingles that cross into the valley. You nailed them.
Never run your Valley over your starter strip. You have just created the first kink in the center of that "v" Valley by installing it over the starter . That will be the first area that stress cracks when the roof structure expands and contracts over time. There is a reason why "W" crimp Valley is the only way a Valley should be installed, it strengthens the metal in the center and allows it to expand and contract.
Dylan: You have apparently created a Renaissance-style Master-Apprentice idea-exchange forum. This entails gracefully accepting outside opinions and advice, lest we turn out like building tradesmen in parts of the world where not a single right angle can be found in a 4,000 square ft. 10-room house. Many thanks. Mowgli.
OK. I've found it. Starter Strip is a special of same mat'l as the shingles but flat (not like architectural alternating 3D shingles) rectangular piece by Tamko's
Since he's being a jackass, I'll help you out. The starter shingle is essentially just used for the tar strip on it. The tar strip will adhere to the deck and the shingle on top, which prevents wind gusts getting under the first row of shingles. A strip of roof cement on the first row will accomplish the same thing.
Dylan, 1. what is the brand and model number for the black sheet under the metal flange? 2. Is that rubber based? Self-sealing against nails? 3. Shouldn't the metal flange b primed n painted (even if Galvanized) B4 installation? Pls reply
Does anyone know how to straighten a run of shingles it measures from peak left side 63 1/2 and 65 in middle and 63 at far right I know I need to pop a line but how?
Currently having a new roof put on. These guys put on an entire shingle (5 nails) with a nail gun in the time it takes you to put in one nail. Not a criticism, just a comparison in time.
Without watching the video, i went straight to the comments , to read all the armchair quarterback replies of why "that isn't the correct way" . I was not disappointed 😂
I get what you're saying but, if you do it that way, a penetration of the valley would first penetrate the membrane. There would be no backup. If the membrane is UNDER the valley then a valley penetration wouldn't necessarily mean a membrane penetration---thus giving you a shot at having a backup.
Adding starter in valley is key to help water diversion seen no starters in valley's as of late this has been a key tactic for years don't know why guys are getting away from it!!
Your drip edge should be under the ice and water I like the way you cute your starters back I like raping the metal around the drip edge so I don't need nails where there is a potential ice back up Thank you for the tips and trades
Personally have never seen the starter in the valley trick to use as a straight edge when doing a cut valley. Must help out a lot vs using a chalkline after. Do you think using a a old three tab would serve its purpose too? I want to get into doing cut valleys with doing your trick but some guys won't agree to using the extra starter or shingle in the valley
The reason we use the starting strip is because it’s under manufacturing specifications. However, there are other methods available which I will be covering soon!
Word to the wise.. whenever a guy says it's not a big deal normally it is... don't listen to this dude... if you don't want rotted fascia or decking in a few years just keep the starter crossed without trying to be cool like this dude... if your going to cut the starter like that you may as well not have any starter... dude just defeated the whole point of why starter is put they're... so now instead of having starter protection you only have a single shingle protecting the valley... I'm sure this dude will comment on how this method is great but don't bother cus it's horrible.
Finally, a properly done valley. You're part of the 1% I call roofers. The rest are shinglers who cut corners to save time/money at the expense of quality. I also suggest using "W" valley flashing.
Does it work on 3 pitch roofs to
Shouldn't you have caulking under those shingles in the valley?
@@Brandon-no3vc im pretty sure we have to use roofing cement here
Canada doesnt have the wind and heat some states have so our code is a bit lax
You don’t need to cut those lapping starters like he did and nails should be placed no closer than 2.5 inches from the opening. The thing I don’t like about cutting the metal lengths is that the ends will eventually rust. I cut it straight up the fold to the starter line and bend the two flaps under the starter itself.
You dont know how much info your video has given me. A million thanks.
Thats a beautiful and thorough presentation..thank you for sharing..
all in all a very informative video! one thing we do and maybe its over kill! we add 3 feet ice and water to both sides of metal valleys as well so that nails seal nicer also chalk line going closed to open from top to bottom, maybe old school way i dont know.
I’ve seen this method a lot! Definitely not a bad option. My idea here was simplifying the process for new installers or DIYers.
@@Average_Roofer had some good take aways from your video, keep up the great work!
Thanks for the awesome content! I just started roofing again. Its so fun and leaves you so tired!
Thank you! #RoofOn
Great info thanks for sharing! You have great teaching ability and a chill personalty.
An easy old tip: Longer "straightedge" lined up further out along drip edge will ensure an accurate projection toward center of valley.
So true. When I started roofing in the early 80s it was with some old timers. It was get to the shop at 6am. Then strait to the bar till 10am. But no drinks for me.
😂. They would be there for first call. Now that is something new
The best way to cut valley is to place a shingle or starter under the cuts along the valley lines to prevent scratching if the knife does slip on you from having to cut through the bond line or double thickness. Also when hand banging it’s always better to hit the nail harder than she is so it’s faster and doesn’t look as soft.
Great we have trade schools for HVAC, Electrical, Plumping and Carpentry but not for Roofing I hoping soon I can find a vocational trade school for this particular skill set. Great video
Unfortunately you are correct. There is no schooling for roofing and it honestly should be a thing. It would help a lot of installers and homeowners.
@Dylan Hodgson Agreed I believe of a vocational trade school existed it will encourage more people to enter into the specific niche, because of technology and solar technology this a very promising career opportunities in this industry. Glad I found your channel
Thanks!😮 Craftmanship!
Hey, thanks for taking the time to share this!
Thank you brother excellent video
Thank you for your time and knowledge
I think you do good work I have a dog house I am going to practice on
👏🏼🙌🏼Cool knowledge for the community! 💪🏼
Great presentation, thank you Sir.
Awesome info! On the next one, can we plz see how you fold, lay, or cut the valley metal at the top?
I would recommend ice & water shield underneath, cementing shingle edges as well
There is ice and water shield under the shingles
At 3:07 to cut the end of the metal flange, wouldn't it b better if u cut say 3" more outward,
then bend the edge over the drip edge so water won't back up under the flange?
Great video. Thx.
This is what I was wanting to ask as well. I seen a video with the fold over the edge of the metal and it looked fabulous
Just a tip . Get some red handle right hand off set aviation snips . A lot easier and safer to cut those longer cuts !!! 🤘
Thanks! Very helpful!
Hey man, your videos have saved me big time on roofing my house. What do you do for a valley that meets a hip?
Great stuff!
Thank you for your kind comment!
Great video thanks for posting
Do you have a video of two open metal valley flashings intersecting? (gable roof)
I personally do speed Valley unless the book isn't good. And starter under the valley I do. All depends on what you are working worh
Really helpful. Thank you. G
Great "maestro"! Once the valley shingles are installed and cut, is there any glue to use for keeping the shingles resting on the metal valley to be loose? Like your way to teach! I am your new subscriber 😊
Easy to see ur a craftsman
Great vid! Very helpful! Question. I got the impression you do not like speed valleys. Is that correct? If so, why not? Thank you.
I don't like them for personal preference reasons.I just believe there are nicer looking valleys, such as a closed cut valley. That said, each one done properly, will work just fine and won't necessarily leak.
Thank you for taking time to respond. Super appreciate it, and super appreciate the knowledge you share.
Awesome content! Super clean craftsmanship.
awesome. thank you
I read that you have to nail only the upper part of the metal sheet and avoid nailing lower because the of the dilatation of the metal sheet would get the nail out ?
Well we add extra tar sealant under the cut shingle ends (near the valley center), since we dont use starter shingles in the valley. Dunno if it's overkill or no. What's your opinion?
That may be a requirement in your local code, or proven to be beneficial in your area. All steps that are to prevent leaking is good practice!
Thank you so much
(2:20) It is better to pencil the bottom end of the W-Flashing from the bottom side,
not from the 'guess' work where the roof-facia edge is from the top.
And, leave 1 to 2" more of the end edge so u can bend the flange down to
protect water from seeping back up under the metal.
Shingles should widen out as you travel down the valley because there is more water in the valley the further down you go.
At 13:58 can you explain what would be done to finish that off I don’t see another video explaining it
Love this in 14 and want to be a roofer
Do your self a favor....
Don't
@@mattk252 I mean if you can get yourself in a good company that doesn't work you like a horse, I don't see why not. Good pay in a few years. Some company's give good benefits too.
There is nothing wrong with roofing. As mentioned previously be sure to find a good company, with good benefits and work smart not hard. Don’t kill your body, there is always an easier way for any physically demanding task.
You have great videos!! Can you show the valley tin fold over at the peak and I know this may be a dumb question but do lay tar paper over all the ice and water because I went to re roof my house and shingles were all stuck to the ice and water!! Not good😕
Starter strip should be wider so you can nail to outside edge of flashing
Informative video!
I did commercial roofs in Montreal for 10years and I’ve done a few shingles roofs here and there and I was always shown to use pitch underneath the shingles near the valley… Don’t now if that’s the best way VS your way or not… I’m a bit of a perfectionist so just gotta know!
I see that you used three fingers to measure your distance between the center valley and shingle edge… is that code or a good rule of thumb?!?
Here’s another video suggestion if it’s not done already…. I’m planning a job for family in two weeks and they got an 10" insulated chimney going through and was wondering about the flashing if I install it underneath shingles the same way as Maximum vent?!? Thanks
Not sure what you mean by “use pitch underneath the valley” but with metal open valleys the general consensus is that at the top of the valley the distance from shingle to center should be about two finger lengths and at the bottom it should be about three finger lengths. A chalk line should be snapped to get a straight line from top to bottom given their different distances from the center and then the starter should be put in according to the line. Hope that helped.
@@jojomarso He said "use pitch underneath THE SHINGLES near the valley." Which means use roof cement under the part of the shingles that cross into the valley. You nailed them.
Never run your Valley over your starter strip. You have just created the first kink in the center of that "v" Valley by installing it over the starter . That will be the first area that stress cracks when the roof structure expands and contracts over time. There is a reason why "W" crimp Valley is the only way a Valley should be installed, it strengthens the metal in the center and allows it to expand and contract.
There are multiple different valleys all serving different purposes.
You just made all that up
Dylan: You have apparently created a Renaissance-style Master-Apprentice idea-exchange forum. This entails gracefully accepting outside opinions and advice, lest we turn out like building tradesmen in parts of the world where not a single right angle can be found in a 4,000 square ft. 10-room house. Many thanks. Mowgli.
where do i get a video opener like that is there a online store for that kind of stuff
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Awesome
Is metal code in Canada if you do a closed valley?
At 7:06 - Starter strip. Is that strip something special (don't sell at Lowe's) or
can it b upside down regular shingle?
OK. I've found it. Starter Strip is a special of same mat'l as the shingles but
flat (not like architectural alternating 3D shingles) rectangular piece by Tamko's
Do all valleys need metal?
Awesome stuff a bit dizzying might could use some more stabilization
I prefer the closed valley on my roof.
Nice
Hey dilly, can you explain to a non roofer what exactly the starter shingles do? And are the ones that come as a roll any good?
I sure can!
@@Average_Roofer Haha.
Since he's being a jackass, I'll help you out. The starter shingle is essentially just used for the tar strip on it. The tar strip will adhere to the deck and the shingle on top, which prevents wind gusts getting under the first row of shingles. A strip of roof cement on the first row will accomplish the same thing.
Dylan,
1. what is the brand and model number for the black sheet under the metal flange?
2. Is that rubber based? Self-sealing against nails?
3. Shouldn't the metal flange b primed n painted (even if Galvanized) B4 installation?
Pls reply
Does anyone know how to straighten a run of shingles it measures from peak left side 63 1/2 and 65 in middle and 63 at far right I know I need to pop a line but how?
Why would you ever run drip edge OVER the ice barrier or any underlayment?
To put another layer on top and sandwich the drip edge so you better protect underlying sheathing
Can you do a closed valley just like this video??
Currently having a new roof put on. These guys put on an entire shingle (5 nails) with a nail gun in the time it takes you to put in one nail. Not a criticism, just a comparison in time.
Only going slow for demonstration purposes.
Without watching the video, i went straight to the comments , to read all the armchair quarterback replies of why "that isn't the correct way" .
I was not disappointed 😂
Why don't you over lap the shingles up the valley?
Because this is considered an open valley
What do you call a roofer at 9 am. Drunk.
Just getting drunk or still drunk?
Dylan: You may be one of the 4-5 guys left in the construction trades who has artistic integrity! Bravo! Mowgli.
Drunk on love for the job. 😆
You ever heard of Red or Green Snips?? LOL!!!
Wouldn't it be better to install the 'roof line' membranes over the valley membrane? Install the valley membrane first?
I get what you're saying but, if you do it that way, a penetration of the valley would first penetrate the membrane. There would be no backup. If the membrane is UNDER the valley then a valley penetration wouldn't necessarily mean a membrane penetration---thus giving you a shot at having a backup.
@@KidFreshie I still think my way is better but I'd have to think about it more and understand the roof planes better.
Adding starter in valley is key to help water diversion seen no starters in valley's as of late this has been a key tactic for years don't know why guys are getting away from it!!
Dont you need caulking under valley starters ?
Closed valley?
Dilly where is the California valley lol!!
Leave a bit to fold into the gutter.
Where's starter under the metal u should definitely have one under metal unless there is and I can't see it
How come you couldn't nail the end yet on 13:55
Your drip edge should be under the ice and water
I like the way you cute your starters back
I like raping the metal around the drip edge so I don't need nails where there is a potential ice back up
Thank you for the tips and trades
Dude, mark the bottom of the valley!!!OMG!
Where is your "W" crimp in your metal valley.
This is a v valley, not a w valley.
Shouldn't there be caulking under the valley starters?
Personally have never seen the starter in the valley trick to use as a straight edge when doing a cut valley. Must help out a lot vs using a chalkline after.
Do you think using a a old three tab would serve its purpose too? I want to get into doing cut valleys with doing your trick but some guys won't agree to using the extra starter or shingle in the valley
The reason we use the starting strip is because it’s under manufacturing specifications. However, there are other methods available which I will be covering soon!
My roof is leaking, I waited to long to re shingle.
I’d recommend having it replaced right away, if leaking is present have your contractor inspect your sheathing/decking while replacing your roof.
@@Average_Roofer Who should I get?, do you know anyone in Woodstock?
@@steadyshakey6599 I can do roofs in woodstock. Send me an email at HodgsonRoofing@gmail.com.
U hiring ?😂
Word to the wise.. whenever a guy says it's not a big deal normally it is... don't listen to this dude... if you don't want rotted fascia or decking in a few years just keep the starter crossed without trying to be cool like this dude... if your going to cut the starter like that you may as well not have any starter... dude just defeated the whole point of why starter is put they're... so now instead of having starter protection you only have a single shingle protecting the valley... I'm sure this dude will comment on how this method is great but don't bother cus it's horrible.
I think it is better that you took down those bdr videos.
y he do that?
Shingled wrong
Shouldn't there be caulking under the valley starters?
Go back to selling tshirts
You move your head too much
shtydogearcuts waters almost gunna run opisote direction you want
WTF kind of trash valley metal is that? You should be using "w" valley metal
Shouldn't there be caulking under the valley starters?