Two Big saws from Erbauer and Triton [**Gifted][video 442]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 มี.ค. 2021
- In this video I take a quick look at couple of larger than average mid-range #plungesaws, and try to figure out the difference between them. Re. blade sizes mentioned in the video, there is a wider choice of blades at the 184 x 20mm size, which begs the question - why design your saw around a 185mm blade?? OEM blades may be available from third parties.
**In the interests of transparency the #Triton saw was supplied for review, and the #Erbauer saw I bought myself for the purposes of this comparison. I have not been paid to make this video or say nice things about the products. I need an agent. Or an accountant...
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I’d like to thank MEDITE SMARTPLY for their support of the channel at this time: MEDITE makes it real, discover more here:www.meditemakesitreal.com/?ut...
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Other videos mentioned:-
Cheap vs Cheapest - • Cheap vs cheapest [vid...
Festool or Mafell - • Big Decision: Festool ...
A Lidl blade upgrade - • A Lidl Blade Upgrade [...
Tracksaw workshop - bit.ly/TracksawWorkshop (playlist)
More about blades - • Same blade, different ...
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Used/featured in this video:-
Erbauer plunge saw - www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-er... (links to specs and full manual)
Triton TTS 185 kit - www.tritontools.com/en-GB/Prod... (links to specs and manual)
Festool MFT - amzn.to/2x49HHE (US: amzn.to/2J25aKy)
Festool Midi extractor - amzn.to/2tCIN3Q (US: amzn.to/2rKNIOx)
Moldex 6810 in-ear defenders - amzn.to/2P2c5nP (US:amzn.to/2LgIsye)
Other handy gear:-
Bessey Duo Klamp - amzn.to/2tsSWQs (US:amzn.to/2sVaRBH)
Hultafors Talmeter tape measure - amzn.to/2pHwnbH (US: amzn.to/2oqLQc9)
Moldex 6810 in-ear defenders - amzn.to/2P2c5nP (US:amzn.to/2LgIsye)
Mirock square - etsy.me/2MC0RT
Mirock 500mm T-ruler - etsy.me/365P0KE
Festool PDC 18/4 - amzn.to/2s3J0eq (US: amzn.to/2tWUHEL)
Festool T18 drill/driver - amzn.to/2QAHpK1 (US: amzn.to/2RPuOCR)
Spax screws - amzn.to/2oYWydc (US: amzn.to/2oOjkDT)
Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
+++++++++ - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![£5 Fix for the Festool Droop [video 448]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ga46Tdpzod8/mqdefault.jpg)
![£5 Fix for the Festool Droop [video 448]](/img/tr.png)
![Big Decision: Festool or Mafell? [video #400]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5kqui1b0SbU/mqdefault.jpg)
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | คู่รักแซฟฟิก "หลิงหลิง - ออม" จากซีรีย์ "ใจซ่อนรัก"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zs8AfphGn2w/mqdefault.jpg)
![Tablesaw or Tracksaw for Narrow Rips [video 477]](/img/n.gif)
"I would never recommend the removal of a factory safety feature. Especially one that appears to be secured with a single screw from underneath, so it appears it is something you'll likely have to live with." Wiser words have never been spoken. And while, indeed, it might APPEAR that there's only a single Phillips #2 screw and a radial spring holding the toggle in place, or that less than 5 full turns might release same, it's important to note that we, the users, cannot be trusted to shield ourselves from the fickleness of fate. There's just no telling what disasters could ensue from their absence.
I just wanted to toss out there that the sagacity of your insight coupled with the stoicism of its delivery just earned you a like and a subscribe, good sir. I appreciate a man who looks out for his viewers.
Once I’d replaced the blade, reset the 90deg set. Fettled the base plate to run parrallel with the blade the Erbauer cuts like a dream. Bought a 1400mm track. Evolution.
Peter I would love to see a procedure for checking square and adjustments for same. Maybe on a few models if they have significant difference 👍
Sore saw options 😜
Out takes priceless👍😉
You are *so* good at this now.
Love it!
Thanks Frank! Proof that if you do,it often enough, you stop being terrible, lol! 😂👍
Thank you Peter for a great video, informative and entertaining. Stay safe.
Thanks Rob, you too! 👍
Thanks for all of your track saw videos Peter. I was able to make an informed decision and splash out on a makita cordless track saw. I absolutely love it! It's so quiet, it's so accurate and I tend to use it outside just on a sacrificial sheet of MDF. my table saw and chop saw are hardly being used as the cordless track saw is so convenient 🙌
Excellent Barrie - glad to hear it! 🙌👍👍
This is a great video Peter. Many thanks
Another fantastic review which has come at the right time for me as I'm going to be purchasing a tracksaw in the next few weeks. Thank you Peter
Cheers Anthony! 👍👍
Thanks Peter :) I am literally a day away from purchasing my first track saw as I have some 2.3mtr frames to make up for a shop fit. I was trying to decide between these two saws and with this video, I have made my choice. I already have an Erbauer chop saw a couple of drills and thicknesser so that's the way I am going to go. Excellent video as always...
Thanks Phil - glad it helped! 👍
Great, yet again. Point about blade availability is a big problem... Well done.
Thanks! 👍👍
I do like all your videos. Over the last 18 months or so I've been slowly doing up my house and I built myself a 10*10 workshop in the garden using 3*2 and 4*2. Workshop is for woodwork and also my electronics work with IoT and general electronics, the workshop is great, my first big woodwork project. I also built the work surfaces, drawers and doors inside it too.
Last year I sold all my cheap Aldi etc power tools and upgraded everything to Evolution tools. For my table saw, sliding mitre saw and circular saw. I use the standard blades that came with all three saws for general cuts about 99% of the time, but for finer cleaner cuts I brought high tooth count spare blades from Saxton for them all, I'm no expert but Saxton appears to make some excellent blades.
I'm really happy with my tools including my cheap router with Chinese bits. I even managed to make jigs for creating my chopping boards and stools.
I've really enjoyed watching your videos, I've learned a lot from them, I even made shaker doors in your preferred way thanks to your shaker door video.
I like videos like this one, but I personally use a long straight edge from Silverline for all my long cuts, I don't want to sell my tools (again) just to upgrade, maybe in the far future.
Anyway, keep up with making these excellent videos for others like me to learn from, they are invaluable tutorials.
I'm bound to comment more on your videos, I have plenty to say but I don't usually write comments.
Thank you.
Peter...
Thanks Peter. Appreciate the feedback! 👍👍
I've had the Erbauer for a few months and used it to make shelves in my new garage which has been a relatively rough and ready job, but my brother has been using it for outfitting his campervan cutting laminated lightweight ply and it's been making really nice cuts. The supplied rails are a pain in the arse to keep joining, to they've been relegated to cross cut duties, with the longer cuts being taken care of with a brace of Makita rails, a 3m one and a 1.5m. To be honest the reason I bought the Erbauer was it was a nice middle ground between the cheaper supermarket saws and the 'proper' saws. The deeper cut was the final sway, I'd like to have a go at making an epoxy table at some point, so wanted the extra depth for cutting a thick slab. Ill have to give some other blades a try and see how it get on........... Oh and the anti kickback 'fell' off mine!
Great feedback, thanks! Yes, the Erbauer have a great cut right out of the box. Don’t have an issue joining the rails, though linger rails are available from many sources. 👍👍
Love your attitude to the evil kick back device - ‘do not remove it, even if it is only secured by a single screw’ lol!
Excellent review. I am well sorted with my Festool TS55 - but if I was buying again then I would likely spring for the Triton Big Boy and immediately set to work removing that ‘single screw’.
Thanks Norman! 👍
Would like to see the other comparison. I wouldn't ever cut 3 at once. The potential for me is 3 errors in one go instead of one.
That sound like efficiency for me.. 3 errors in one go rather than 3 errors one at a time.
I feel you. I built some shop furniture and doubled up the sheets to save time. Turned out that the saw was not exactly 90°...
Informative as always, thank you Peter! Interestingly, for a long time there hasn't been much to report on Festools TS 55, but this week I received notification about a TS55 F version, and new types of blades for this 'facelift' machine. Haven't had the time to look into it, but maybe my go to guy on track saws is already on it and a video about this is forthcoming? No pressure, of course...
Thanks Caspar! I’ve only had the briefest of glances over the specs, but it looks like they’re making a lot of claims about a new blade design, basically. I’ll have more of a dig into it in due course and report back. 👍👍
Great and informative as usual. I'm surprised about the blade availability issue. Live the out takes BTW. Relatable and hilarious.
Thanks! Yes, the blade thing surprised me too. 🤷♂️ 👍
I first used a track saw to cut up plywood sheets to replace really nasty old floorboards on a suspended floor. I bought the Parkside saw following Peter's video on the same, It did the job .
It was ok, but the tracks it came with and the limited space I had to work in ,meant that I experienced several nasty kickbacks - So Scary.
After fitting the sub floor, when it came to cut the engineered wood floor I thought i would upgrade my Parkside with a Triton blade and Evolution tracks ( again ideas from Peter). Seemed perfect but the poor QA on the Parkside meant that I rounded the head of the spindle bolt trying to undo it!
I replaced that machine with this Erbauer.
My God the difference was amazing., smoother cuts , safer cuts , faster etc. Yes the kickback device sucked ( It fell off as others have said), the depth gauge is an estimate at best, but for the money i think it is amazing. Can I mention SkillBuilder channel here? ( Ok I have now) - they could not see any difference between the Triton and the Erbauer. they thought it was good value - I agree - with knobs on.
🙌👍👍
Hi Peter. Another very interesting, informative and interesting video. Always love seeing the the comparisons between different tools. Would be very interested in the 2 Triton saw comparisons and how they stack up against each other. Keep safe and look forward to your future productions
Thanks Rich. Tbh the two Teuton saws are almost identical, apart from the blade size and increased capacity. They both work on the same rails, I think they have the same motor. 👍👍
New subscriber here - thanks for such a clear and informative video! I've also watched your parkside videos too. The info about lack of spare parts for Erbauer I was not aware of, for me that's a big issue so I know now to look elsewhere. Thanks Peter!
Hi Tom, and welcome! Yes, the business about the spare parts is a shame; I don't know how many parts would be genuinely interchangeable with the Triton, but the fact the neither company sells a spare blade for this oddball size isn't exactly encouraging!
Great simple to the point review thanks 👍🏻
Thanks! 👍
Thanks for that interesting comparison
I find it very difficult to make choice. Anyway, this very interesting. Thank you.
I do see quite a few 185 x 30 blades are shipped with reducer rings to fit the 20mm bore
I've got the standard Triton TTS 1400 165mm saw and it's ferociously loud too.
The bloopers had me cracking up. Good vid though. I do think it's about time for me to get a track saw. Thanks for the info
Thanks! 👍
About to buy the erbauer so great that a video just came up
Thanks! 👍
Got it, both saws don't have the plunging anti kick back that the Festool or Mafell have. A cheaper way to go. THX for the review.
Another great and informative vid thanks Peter, think I'll stick with my Festool,would like to see the comparison vid , as always thanks for posting and stay safe,
Cheers Paul! 👍👍
Great video and info about blade availability
Thanks! 👍
Good video Peter ! thanks
Thanks Michael! 👍
I have just bought the Erbauer track saw this week, very impressed so far especially with the quality of the cut, a big step up from the very cheap circular saw I was using previously. A few niggles with getting it to run smoothly over the join in the tracks but working ok now, think I will upgrade to the longer Evolution tracks soon. I did consider going for a Makita but couldn't really justify the price at the moment, my thoughts are that as they both run on the same tracks, any accessories I get I will be able to hang onto and use if/when I upgrade to a higher-end model in a few years time.
Building an MFT style workbench this week and with a couple of jigs from your tracksaw workshop I should have most of the capability of a mitre saw and table saw all rolled into one. Ideal for me as I don't have a dedicated workspace and have to work in the garden.
Thanks for all of your videos and tutorials, I have learnt a lot so far that I hope will help me get the best from my new track saw.
Thanks Tom! That’s fantastic feedback, and I’m so pleased the videos have helped! 🙌👍👍
I've got the entry level Evolution R185CCSX track saw bundle with the 1020mm three part rail. I have to say the rail is dreadful. To get it straight you have one side flush and the other with a 2mm gap at the join. I was intending to buy the longer Evolution track, but if they are as bad as this one, I think I'll have to look elsewhere. The saw, although it has limits (it's not a plunge saw and setting the depth is a faff), has done everything I've thrown at it so far.
The anti-kickback feature would be the first to get removed and stored in a "parts" bag. For the novice, the feature is, as you stated, a good idea, but it's rather like a magazine safety on a pistol, pretty useless. That will be contentious to many but the experienced. Excellent review Peter.
Thanks! Being British I don’t really know what a ‘magazine safety on a pistol’ is, but it sounds kinda pointless, assuming you already have one in the spot, right?? 🤷♂️
I have been watching your tracksaw workshop and I love it. You made me realize that I could actually buy the MFT table and the saw for what I paid last year for my table saw and my mitersaw. Those take at least the double amount of space, and whatever I do, the dust collection sucks. Might consider making a change.
Thanks! I’ll be making my own version of an MFT before too long. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop do you know anything about the UJK table and their parf guide sistem? Here in Denmark the UJK table will end up being a bit more than half the price of festool.
I only know what I’ve seen on the Axminster website or from Parfitt. I don’t like the trestles personally, but it seems like a solid bench - for me, a hinged rail will always win in the workshop though! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks for your time. MFT it is😅
Great video Pete. Saxton do a cracking 185 x 20 x 80 th blade for saws I use one on my mitre compound saw really clean cut...... brilliant outtakes lol
Thanks! Yeah, I think I mention Saxton, great blades! 👌👍
I left back the Lidl tracksaw a few months ago as the motor started to smoke when
cutting 18mm mdf
Oh! Reading over my last comment, I just had this idea! A same track comparison. All the saws that run on the same track compared. Meaning a Festool v Maktiva v Triton comparison.
Deal! 🙌👍
I think I read somewhere that the saws that have the ‘anti kick back’ feature don’t have the drop down riving knife. Maybe, as a Festool user, that’s why you haven’t seen kick back. I have the Erbauer and have certainly felt sticking while pushing through the cut.
Just a thought Peter.
Another great video.
Thanks Graeme. Or perhaps it’s just my exemplary plunging technique?? 😂 In all seriousness there are lots of higher-end saws without riving knives or anti-kickback things, and I do think it would be much better if it was switchable, like the DeWalt has. 👍👍
I’m looking for a small track saw and would love to see a head to head of the budget saws. I use makita tools mostly but it would be good to see how more inexpensive options stack up against the makita offering.
The Tracksaw workshop playlist has every of mine tracksaw related, including a number of entry level comparisons. 👍👍
I have had the standard triton for a while now, i saw a video i cant remember who from but the anti kickback knob if turned with a little force will just stick there nicely! :) just saying! :P
Scheppach has one with 75mm depth of cut and a 210mm blade. I got mine pretty cheap for about €100 but i dont know the retail
Hi Peter. I bought the erbauer track saw and was initially very happy.. But that soon changed..... After fitting 2 kitchens the saw started to loose power and stop under load.. Even cutting 9mm ply it would stop. Plus I'd put a blade upgrade into it. So I took it back to screwfix.. Long story short, I got a refund and bit the bullet and purchased a festool ts55. Iv got to say, I'm very impressed to say the least.. I'm running evolution track without any issues.. All good so far... Ps. Love your videos
Sorry to hear about the erbauer woes, but the benefit of buying these kind of saws is that exchange or refund is never an issue! And congrats on the Festool! Great saws, love mine. Thanks for letting me know! 👍👍👍
Love the out takes Peter. 😂😂
😆👍
Great vid, I have the safety stop on mine and as said it is beyond me on how to disable with the single screw underneath :)
I think they work themselves loose, over time. 🤔👍
Again, even though I spend my working day on the tools, on my lunch break and even after work, I'm watching others review tools or build stuff. I've got a problem. Interesting stuff Peter. Annoying when you get odd blade sizes limiting choice - blade choice being somewhat a recent convenience. Not limited to budget brands either. Not a lot of choice for my bigger Mafell K85 and KSP 85. Though their own blades are superb (if costly). Hilti has fantastic blades the same size too. Very few budget ones though. I have found I can sneak in a Freud which is a couple mm bigger. Maybe the same blag for the Erbaur and Triton?
Cheers Stew! I think it’s only the Mafell 185mm blade / saw that’s made any of them available tbh! There are a few 184mm around, but again no that many - never occurred to me to try anything bigger though, thanks - I’ll give it a try. 👍👍
I've got the Erbauer saw and with regards to spares I've recently ordered a replacement pair of adjustment cams from the Triton website and they were exactly the same, the old ones kept catching on the join in the rails and chipped away, have changed to Makita rails now.
Another point worth noting is having changed to Makita rails I found that even with the new adjusting cams fitted the saw was sloppy on the rails so have had to put the some tape on the side of the channel on the saw opposite the cams to take up the slack. This also meant that I couldn't join the supplied rails to the Makita rails and make cuts. Happy enough with the actual saw buy think I'll end up getting a Makita or used Festool saw soon.
Thanks! That’s interesting about the rails; the ones I have are very similar to the Makita rails, buy yes, always best to keep to the same make where possible, and avoid mixing brands when joining. 👍
I was just about to ask if triton spares might fit erbauer. My adjustment cams won't snug up to the erbauer rsils anymore but are ok on my evolution but I'd like to have 2 rail options, especially as the evolution I find quite slippy. Its worth noting that I've never had great success with the erbauer and I've had it for a couple of years now. The cut doesn't seem the run against the splinter guard. I recently noticed that the blade is out of parallel with the track and only cuts cleanly pulling the saw backwards. So I need to try and resolve that.
@@rockboy93 www.tritontools.uk.com/tts1400sparespricelist.html
Item 104 is the adjustment cams, £3 for 2 cams and £7 postage😡
That's exactly how I feel about the saw, had it for 6 months and it's had plenty of use and for the money it's fine but I always feel like it's a bit comprised, mine randomly seems to take chunks out of the splinter guard so am having to reset them otherwise the splinter guard is no good for lining up cuts, it the same on the new Makita rails and the dust port gets annoying that it doesn't swivel.
@@timbarrow8528 totally agree. The splinter guards often have nicks diagonally in them and am hoping that's because the blade isn't square and I've started a cut in the middle of the rails. I think I've probably smashed the saw out of square as it gets thrown about in my van as it's a state in there and I've dropped the saw numerous times. Totally agree with the dust port, it is angled directly where you'd like your wrist tk be most of the time and I was struggling to find high tpi good quality blades for it. I don't know if it is the saw or the rails but I rarely make cuts without clamps. Every time I think "it's only" or "I'll just hold it firmly" they wander and mess up the cut
Thanks for this comparison Peter, I just purchased the Erbauer saw three weeks ago after having watched a lot of your videos and others. I was torn between the Evolution, the Draper and the Erbauer. I bought the Erbauer as I've had other tools by them before. Also the track on the Evolution is in 3 parts??? so not handy. I lasted a day with the anti Kickback thingy before it miraculously unscrewed itself and went to live in the rail bag.
I've been using the Dewalt Trim saw for years now and my one observation is that I feel all the Plunge saws are built the wrong way round. I think the motor should be on the right hand side of the blade, then you are not leaning over the saw to to set depths etc. Unless ofcourse the original designer was Lefty and and was getting one back on all us Right handed people.
Love the Channel and your relaxed presentation style, and no annoying music.
Thanks Tom! Yes, those anti-kickback things can work their way loose, I believe. 🤔 😆 The only tracksaw I know that’s a ‘leftie’ is the Kreg and we don’t get that over here. 🤷♂️👍👍
Got my erbauer cheap 2nd/3rd hand, no anti kick back on it. No idea what could of happened to it 🤣
I’ve got a macalister brand saw, probably from the same factory. It works fine in a no frills way. The screw “fell out” of the anti-kickback mech, i’ve not lamented its passing!
Yes, I’m told they can vibrate themselves loose! 🤔👍
Are you sure it fell out ?
I still have and use the Titan I got based on your initial cheap tool Vs Festool video. It's been abused, loaned out and double abused and it still works great, in fact I got myself a couple of benchdogs guide rail dogs and it's even better. It's worked well beyond expectation and I've had more than my money's worth out of it. The only downsides for me are the dust extraction (which could be my fault) and the fact that if it exploded tomorrow I couldn't buy another one. Screwfix now have a Mac Allister saw listed that does look the same (costs £99) only in grey and blue with a 165mm blade and a claimed depth of cut of 59mm which might be an option.
Thanks! Yes, the old Titan was brilliant for the money. Haven’t got my hands on a MacAllister yet, but it’s on my list. Those depth of cut claims are almost always off the rail btw - put them in a rail and you lose ~6mm 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Same saw, exactly, just a different label & they changed the accent colour from orange to blue.
That's quite a collection of track saws that you are developing...
And I’m not done yet... 😆👍
I have the Mafell and the blade deflection is unacceptable even in 18mm BB So I dread to think of the performance of a cheaper saw on thicker material. That’s the problem with thin kerf blades that nobody seems to talk about.
I have the Erbauer, What is also NOT available is spare track or an extension to the provided track. When I asked they pointed me to Makita! I also have an issue with that anti kickback and have disabled it. another negative is the retaining nut for the blade is of poor quality and will probably have to be replaced at the next blade change, the hex is not deep enough and wears through use. having said all that, it has done trojan work and for the price it's a great saw for me an amatuer woodworker.
Triton customer service is epic.
As I wasn't brought up on plunge tools I've always been more concerned about the tool and workpiece slipping away from me rather than kickback. Getting more confident with use but still have concerns at times.
👍👍
Trend seem to do a number of 180 mm blade options.thank you for comparison.
Thanks, yes, but they only do one at 185 x 20mm 👍👍
Hi Peter, I have been using a track saw (admitting that I am using a cheap one from Liddle) for five of six years now and I admit I do not use it every day but I have never experienced kickback once.
I had kickback from my Parkside track saw once and it ruined a kitchen worktop I was fitting...the next day I bought the makita saw
Bob nuts on re Erbauer. My first sliding miter saw was said brand. 10inch brilliant thing cut square as, problem no spares when the switch died.
My money on that price point would be Triton all day for the above reason
Thank! My thinking too. 👍
I've got two cheap saws, the Macalister and the rutlands one. The rutlands doesn't have the anti kickback but I definitely prefer the Macalister. I can't see the point in choosing the erbaur over the Macalister. Fifty extra notes for being able to cut a bit deeper isn't really worth it especially since you can't find new blades easily. I'd like to see how the smaller Triton is in comparison though
Does the Macalister one work with other rails ie. Makita, Evolution, festool?
@@barrykerr2346 yup. I own evolution and Triton rails. The Triton rail is an exact match to the supplied Macalister rails but can be bought as a 1500mm rail. The evolution ones work but they aren't as well made
I have the erbauer, it's pretty decent but when I am cutting 18mm plywood sheets the waste side is singeing. I am cutting on the flat with a spoiler board underneath so the isn't twisting and hence rubbing. I wouldn't care but it fills the room with smoke! Not sure what I can do about it I've tried different blade speeds and cutting slowly through the wood...
There's a track saw here in Australia with a 230mm blade. Brand is AGP which I've never really heard of
Thanks! There’s a Scheppach at that blade size (PL75??) wouldn’t surprise me if it was a clone. Festool TS75 uses a 220mm blade I think. 👍
Got my erbauer for 30 quid at a boot sale, new blade and splinter guard and it's all good. For that price if it breaks who cares, the track is worth that tbh. No idea what I will buy when it breaks though.
Bargain! 👍
😳the "F" bomb😳
😆😆😆😆😆😆😆
That's pretty weird Erbauer don't have "any" spare parts at all, and more bizarre that neither Triton or Erbauer stock blades for these machines....
Nice comparison video, mate.👍🏽
Thanks Bill! Yeah, all a bit odd; I’ve been told that Erbauer have started providing some spares through their customer service, and as soon as I get more details I’ll,post them here, but it’s a curious one, for sure! 🤷♂️👍👍
I bought the Erbauer about 6 or 7 months ago, I have played about with it for hours and hours and can not get a straight and true cut out of it. I can't put my finger on why, it could be something I'm doing or it could be a faulty machine but I decided to replace with an upgrade to find out! TS55 on it's way!
Sounds like a good upgrade! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop if I can't get a decent accurate cut out of a TS55 then I may as well just sell all of my tools and find a new hobby!
Nice video Peter thanks for enlightenment coz I'm about to purchase one, it seems that the two saw are doing well in term of cutting ,what about the dust comparison? Thanks
Thanks! Dust collection? Pretty poor on both saws tbh, but that’s typical until you get to around the Makita level tbh. 👍
Nice material as always Peter. Thanks.
I'm looking for comparison reviews of Macalisters plunge saw product from screwfix.
If you have a review of that material in planning then I would be grateful.
Thanks again for the material. Its always informative and I always pick up something useful.
Thanks Frederick! The MacAllister is on my list as it's so close (visually) to the old Titan - it'll be a few weeks yet though! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop many thanks Peter,
I guess it may be useful (from a data point of view) to point out the type of things I’m looking for in a review. You cover most but if we don’t say it then you don’t know.
I like your 2 saw format of review. As long as one saw is something I can reference in some way. You have talked about your titon enough so that’s a good reference now. If something persuaded you to switch favorites then we have a big winner ;-)
- noise level is actually high on the list for me specifically. Possibly not as important for others.
- weight and ease of handling. (Nice feel combined with noise are things that can make something a “go too” tool)
- the rail system is still a confusing space for me. We need to cut 8 foot sheets so need new rails from the get go (like most people I imagine) But everything seems to be a compromise. The best budget answer seems to be a set of evolution rails ! Is there any sense in a DIY 9foot “shooter board” with a something to hold the saw in place! ? Compact Portability is gone, but can one get everything else from such an effort?
- I’ll change the blade from the start unless the stock blade is an education I did not expect. Thin kerf and lower noise are normal objectives.
- dust collection. Is much left on the floor or in the air? Can a bit of tape over an opening, dramatically improve it? (I hear it can in some cases)
Sorry such a long post. Hope it’s useful. Thanks again for the material.
Tim’s howtomake had a review of the MacAllister saw from a little while back. He shows a “slop” in blade to shoe alignment due to a loose fitting in slide/plunge arrangement. He didn’t manage to show any diy fix though. If anyone knows of a fix please post.
I came here as a result of your Instagram teaser. Thought you’d be interested to see the algorithm in action. Cheers from the states
Thanks, and welcome! Lots of back-catalogue to look over if I’ve piqued your interest?? 👍👍
Peter Millard Oh my yes-I found your Instagram through your TH-cam channel. I’ve delighted in working my way through your offerings. Thank you for all of it!
Update! Just bought the Erbauer and it's now guaranteed for 3 years (yipee). Thanks for the great review, Peter. BTW, since the Triton is essentially the same saw, couldn't you just use the Triton spares on the Erbauer?
Good to n ow, thanks! Re the spares, you should be able to, but obvs. there’s no guarantee everything will fit or work. 👍👍
Peter another great video has your festool tracksaw put a thumbs down because your using other saws🤣🤣👍
They always do that - they're so touchy! 😂👍
Great to see a new trackie vid!
Are Triton putting their slidey strips on either side of the central rail now? I remember the point you made about the *tiny* chance of rocking the saw with them both on one side - I'm very good at defying odds to mess up a cut so that always made me a little weary of choosing Triton rail for a 1.5m upgrade :)
Thanks! No, it was the evolution rails that had/have both the glide strips to the right of the rib. I’ve never done a video on the Triton saw/rail before. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Oh of course, thanks I think I got confused by orange :D
Hi Peter, thanks very much for the video content. Helping us diy'ers and wanna be woodworkers through the perils of the jobs. Just a quick question, I'm going to set up a track saw table like yours and thought might be worth adding into the table some T track with clamps to hold down the smaller bits and pieces (90° track to top rail). Do you think worth adding them to the table or the track saw weight/rubber underneath and holding it is sufficient to keep things without moving? Thanks again, Col
Thanks Col. honestly, if you have an MFT-style too with homes in then you already have ample clamping opportunities right there in the table already. If it’s a regular bench top, then some t-track may help - though a grid of holes may be easier, and you won’t have to worry about hitting them with the saw! HTH. Peter
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter for the time in replying. I am going to buy a MFT top too and fit it to my bench. Would you suggest adding some support rails underneath to ensure the MFT top doesn't sag? Of course it has to stand off the table top so i can get the clamps underneath.
Continued success on the channel Peter!
Something to note with UK warranty, UK law makes it clear that statutory warranty is 5 years on faults. There are some caveats when it comes to eligibility but generally speaking, the 2 or 3 year claims are irrelevant.
I have to look this up as this didn't sound quite right. I believe Sam T is referring to our Consumer Rights legislation, combined with our Limitations Acts for civil claims. However, the legislation only allows claims to be made if the product was faulty. There is no such thing as a Statutory Warranty. A Warranty is a form of guarantee that the product will last a certain time. So if you bought a track saw and it stopped working after 2 years, you would not have a claim under the Consumer Rights legislation unless it stopped working due to a fault. If you wore it out because you were using it every day in a workshop, you would not have a valid claim, except under the manufacturers warranty in which case you have to comply with their requirements such as registering the tool.
You're right in the claim that it is faulty but you'll also find that it is based on fault and failure within what you would expect to be a reasonable time period for the product to work as described. So if I buy a tool or product that would be used in a reasonable time period considered the 'lifetime' of the product and it fails, that would be considered a manufacturer fault. Personally I'd expect a power tool to last at least 5 years. If it fails within that period I'd consider that to be a faulty product, this is why I said there are some caveats. For example and this is a true account, I had a Makita circular saw that failed at 4 years old. I sent it back to Makita for repair. They made the argument that I hadn't registered it for extended warranty but I in response quoted the consumer rights legislation that within reason it should have been fit for purpose within at least 5 years regardless. They had no choice and they did repair and return the item to me free of charge.
On the issue of spares, I do like that Parkside do provide spares.
I know you can get spare rails, but can you actually get spare parts Benedict??
@@10MinuteWorkshop If you look in the manual it should list a website where you can put the model number in and look up spares, but I believe so.
Same with the Lidl Track saw - no 165 mm spare blades. Turns out 165mm is not so widely spread here in Bulgaria. Most of the blades this size are either for cordless saws (meaning thinner kerf) or with 30 mm arbor diameter. Which on the Lidl saw you cannot use, because the backing flange will only support a blade up to 20 mm. HBM Silverline, Guede and Einhell offer a saws almost identical to the Lidl, but still don't have proper blades.
That’s the same size and note as the Makita; there should be load of blades to fit. 👍
Fantastic video yet again, however the bloopers at the end made me realise how long your videos take to make! I think you're being too harsh on yourself and should just leave it in when you make a mistake in your wording, most people won't even pick up on it!
Keep up the fantastic work!
Thanks! If I left the bloopers in we'd have the ten hour workshop! 😂 👍
Have to say I found the bloopers way too funny
I'd like to see a more in depth video on saw blades. Number of teeth, teeth design, kerf etc for which job. When should you upgrade the the provided blade eg I've a Makita I assume its OK
Me too, I have the DeWalt 520
Yes please comparison against titan
As always very educational content I've just diped my toe into the plunge saw world I've purchased an excel plunge saw but they do not offer a 1.5 length track do you know if any track will fit or must I suffer with trying to get two to line up eventually thanks
You should be able to get the excel 1500 rail - Excel guiderail - bit.ly/2YJ66g9. Be aware it’s a different pattern to the rails that come with the saw, and you’ll probably need to trim the lip off the rail to make it work with the saw, but it’s the best value 1500 rail you can get. I showed the trimming technique in this video - How to Trim a GuideRail - and why you’d want to! [video 468]
th-cam.com/video/QqTJ4SrRD1M/w-d-xo.html
Took me roughly 4 months before I'd had enough and removed the kickback on mine, not that anyone could condone such behaviour
Exactly. Even if it is just held in with one screw, from underneath, where I’m sure it could easily vibrate loose. 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop Im just glad you told me where it was so i didnt remove it accidentally
@@10MinuteWorkshop n;
4 months? The anti-kickback on my Titan must have been defective as it fell off about 4 minutes after I took it out of the box 🤔
I bought a £100 Mac Alister 165mm plunge saw and a Freud 40 tooth blade £22 from Screwfix. I've been using it for cutting gloss end panels, plinth etc on my new kitchen install. It looks to be the same basic design as these two saws but with only 1200 watt motor. It makes very clean cuts - the only problem being me cutting an odd mm short. Peter, have you done a tutorial on measuring and cutting accurately?
Here’s Tony. These two are a bit bigger overall, but out of the same mould as the MacAllister. I haven’t done anything specifically on measuring and marking, no, but it’s on my list! 👍👍
Is it necessary to clamp pieces securely when cutting or can a DIY er depend on rails to remain stable . Thanks in advance , by the way I like your clear instructions and advice , especially the lack of music from start to finish . Music is for party time .
Thank you! I’d say 99% of my cuts are unclamped, but a lot depends on how ‘grippy’ the rails are; Festool are better than most, IME, but I’d always clamp for an important cut.👍👍
Both these brands look identical to the 2 size offerings in the Wen brand although a bit less refined in the fit and finish but also with. $200 dollar lower price tag , I would love to hear your opinion on the wen saw
As always thank you for your amazing channel
Not aware of Wen bringing those products to the UK, unfortunately. There are many plunge saws that are visually very similar though, and I wouldn’t expect there to be major differences between them.
Any idea how putting the erbaur blade on the triton and vice versa affects the quality of cut? It’s quite irrelevant but I’m curious...
The 165mm Triton I have barely adjusts in to the rails - it is always a little bit sloppy. When you push the cut out of the material it seems to release from the resistance and the last cm of the cut is never a clean square cut. Could be bearings as well, I suppose. On these cheaper saws setting them to cut a bevel and then setting them back to 0 degrees they're never trustworthy to go back perfectly square. I've found I need to check everything with a square and possibly some test cuts. FWIW, I find the anti-kickback is second nature because I've not known any different but those other two aspects (and the noise) are annoying.
I have a Kreg. On one project I had to make beveled cuts and didn’t check for square after returning to zero. Big mistake! And checking square and subsequent adjustments are a real pain. Wish manufacturers would include this in their design. A lock for full blade extension and some way to rest the beast upside down to make adjustments.
@@michaelkaye4998 Agree, the repeatability of square settings (e.g. returning back from 45 deg cut) can be occasionally problem (SCheppach for sure and Bosch GKT 55 - better to be carefull. And resetting might be not a pleasant process. Found interesting that flat side of outer case/shell (Bosch) is perfectly aligned to blade (0,1 deg or less) - this way no turn upside down, I can check (and reset) the position just with measuring the angle between the rail and outer case of the saw (sitting on the rail). Setting screw is easily accessible so checking can be done within few seconds (digital inclinometr). So yes, there are solutions - and they do not necessarily be expensive.
Having been an employee of a kingfisher group company in a former life it comes as no surprise that there’s not a range of blades in the catalog. Showers with no trays, sinks with no wastes, saws with no blades - sanders with no belts... same old story. There are plenty of aftermarket blades about though so don’t let that put you off if your a potential buyer.
There’s a few at that size - probably thanks to Mafell - but nit as many as are available at eg 160/162/165 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I think Makita have blades that sized
Great review Peter, as always. I'm interested in your opinion on the accuracy of the depth gauge on the Erbauer. I bought one a month ago and find it a bit hit and miss.
Thanks Darren. TBH I find all plungesaws to be a bit hit & miss on the depth scale, until you start getting up to the Makita and Dewalt sort of levels; if it's critical I'll always run a quick test first. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Much appreciated Peter. 👍
Hi Peter, I am a subscriber and value your videos. I was looking to see if you had done anything on table saw blades but could not find anything (hint). I also realised that your vids hide a wealth of material which is not easy to find (for example I am keen to get into CNC and see you have some ‘get into cnc’ stuff. Needs an index somewhere as TH-cam seems not to do it on a provider basis. Anyway, keep them coming!
Thanks Bill. I’m not really a table saw user, so don’t have much to say about them tbh. And yes, some kind of index or wiki on the back catalogue would be nice, but it needs someone else to put it together! 🤷♂️👍
Great video Pete
But I’ll stick to my Festool 👍👍👍👍
Well, me too tbh Carl - but never hurts to see what’s in the other side of the fence 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop As you know mate the grass isn’t always greener on the other side really enjoy your videos mate thank you I’m 57 I’m still learning 👍👍👍👍
When I had my WEN track saw, the first thing I did was get rid of that stupid anti kick back
Thanks for another great video, Peter!
I would love to see a Titan vs. Triton video. Although, to be honest I would really love your opinion on the Makita saw. Especially the corded one. And like I mentioned before the Festool vs. Makita 36v.
Well, with the wish list out of the way, and having used the Titan saw for about 2 years now, I would like to make a point that maybe is not stated explicitly in your videos. For the budget saws there are no accessories. I don't know if Benchdogs have gotten around to making for the budget saws, but there are just no accessories for them. And I don't mean just fancy jigs. I can't even get another track for my saw, let alone spare parts. Not even a decent (or low quality) rail square.
If you need to use the saw in a "system" there are really only 3 options. The Festool, the Maita and the Triton. As they all run on the same track.
If anyone has found any accessories for the cheaper saws, especially the Titan - I would love to know about it.
Hey Goran. Pretty sure the Titan runs on regular Festool-pattern rails - I’ll check when I’m back in the workshop, but if you upgrade to Festool or Makita style tracks, then that investment isn’t wasted. 👍👍
Hi Peter, thanks for another great video and track saw series. At the end of this video you mentioned the smaller Triton track saw, have done any reviews on this? U can't see any and I'm wondering how it compares to the Macallister
Hi. I haven’t no, but basically it’s *very* similar but with soft start, a slight bigger motor and availability of spare parts - basically a rinse/repeat of the conclusion here. 👍
It's sad that there aren't these cheaper options in the US that are readily available. I believe there is a triton type saw sold by grizzly. Kreg has one but I've never seen it. Bosch is selling their track saw over here now finally but on Amazon they want $526 without a rail. I'll more than likely by another Makita.
Yes, it’s rare that we get to have the benefits of things not available across the pond, but it does seem that these kind of saws, and cheap MFT-alike tops are two of them! 👍
I have a Screwfix minutes away from home... If it wears out or breaks within two years it has paid for itself.. Any time beyond that is a bonus... The Triton is tempting though... but I do like the options and accrssories standard with the Erbauer... Both compatible with Makita track?
Yes, that's exactly how I think about the entry-level tools tbh - I know exactly what the score is going in. And yes, both compatible with the Makita track, or any festool-pattern track. 👍
Got the chance to buy the erbauer today for £60 (Used once). Took the plunge........... I'll get my coat.
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Hi Peter, I would be really interested in your thoughts on the 165mm Triton saw. It has features I like sure as soft start and has manufacturer support as you say but it was poorly reviewed by Skillbuilder so I've been looking at a second hand Makita saw. I wonder if a different blade or using the scribe cut feature produces a better result. For a DIY'er this looks like a potential good middle ground between the makita/festool and the budget erbauer with no spares as you point out. doesn't look like dust collection was great on either saw in this video. thanks
Thanks! To be fair dust collection isn’t great on any of these saws until you start getting up to the Makita kind of level. How about a comparison between the 165 Triton, the MacAllister and a second hand Makita? 🤔
@@10MinuteWorkshop that would be a really useful review. If others are like me I've had that discussion in my head several times as a DIY'er with some interest in furniture making.
@@10MinuteWorkshop A little bit of an aside, but any chance of reviewing one or other of the adapters that fit a standard circular saw. I have a Makita HS7601, and by the time you buy the adapter and track, it gets close to the cost of cheap complete plunge saw with track.
i wonder if those saws have interchangeable parts
I've had the erbauer plunge saw for a few years now. I have to say its great for the price! A few issues with the depth gauge not being very accurate but they may have resolved this on the newer model. Am thinking about upgrading to the Makita DSP600 cordless seems to have great reviews compared with Festool TSC 55, what are your thoughts Peter?
Thanks James. I’ve never used a cordless tracksaw so don’t have any experience of either I’m afraid. 🤷♂️👍
I have both a festool 110v plunge saw and the Makita 36v and the festool doesn't come out any more. Cordless makita every time.
Great video as always peter, annoying thing about the erbauer is not being able to buy additional guide rails, have you tried the erbauer on any of your other rails? Wanting to get some additional track but not sure which would fit best.
Thanks Jay! I think I do say in the video that the rails are the standard Makita pattern - so basically the Festool rail with the added lip - so any rail of that type will do the job. I don’t generally recommend mixing different rail brands in the same run if you can avoid it - I go into details in the Which Rail Works? guiderail compatibility video, here, th-cam.com/video/_HtpT_bK7zw/w-d-xo.html - but the evolution track is probably the best value for 2x 1400 rails.👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks a million for that peter, keep up the good work!
I heard the blade diameter and immediately thought the manufacturers were just trying to capitalize on the proliferation of 7-1/4" blades on the American market, but I didn't notice the arbor size is quite different. Very unusual, especially if 18mm blades aren't common outside of the US.
Is the reason they went with a rail-locking anti-kickback mechanism just because it is cheaper than a riving knife, or is there a benefit to one over the other? My Grizzly track saw has a riving knife, and it's not what I would consider to be a high end unit.
Thanks! Yes, the riving knife thing has come up and you might be right, though even high end saws (eg Mafell) don’t have a riving knife, or anti-kickback. 👍
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