If anyones got any issues getting through the firewall grommet, I find a metal coathanger unfolded does it perfectly, little bit of wd40 or some dishwashing liquid helps bring the cable through easier
nice one mate...i couldn't understand what the " +12v battery" connection was for on the wring diagram when I bought my gauge, so I rang SAAS ... I was told they have one gauge technician and he only works Monday and Tuesdays can you believe that! i spoke to two other blokes at SAAS and none of them could tell me what that constant 12V feed was for. Then I find this vid of yours and boom now i know its to cover the memory settings ...nice one
I've got those gauges in my GU Patrol. I've found them really good and have had no issues with them. The EGT will go crazy if the probe gets wet but comes good once the probe dries off. They are however very bright at night even when dimmed, so I've put a piece of window tint on them.
How long have you had them? I had 3 sets within warranty period (replaced twice) and the third died shortly after warranty period was up. Worst thing i've ever spent money on. I did like how they lloked though and i agree the 7 segment part is far too bright.
@@TheJanope13 Mine have been going strong for close to 3 years now I think. I've had no issues with them, but I know that some people have problems the SAAS Trax gauges.
That boost line pick up in the intercooler pipe is in wrong place hence why it over boosts on occasion also you should have a dedicated boost line just for the gauge, meaning you shouldn't share that boost line with another line. I get my boost from the intercooler where the map sensor is with an adapter..
Great video again bud :) it helped me decide that if I want to get some of these installed.... I need to take it to a Mechanic..... cause I can't Weld nor do a lot of Auto Sparky stuff, like this LOL :) Cheers, Don (Dons Shed and Xplor Overland)
Good work mate! I installed the same dual boost gauge a few months back and it performs great, your boost is a little worrying tho, I'd be looking at installing a tillix and needle valve for a nice linear boost control, also my EGTs are sitting alot lower than yours I'm yet to see 400°c even at 100km/h on the highway I'm sitting at roughly 350°c, I have recently had a ECU remap tho.
It does have a dawes and needle valve on it which I believe does the same as tillex, so maybe it just needs some tuning? Problem is I have no idea how the shit works 😟 interesting about the EGTs, standard intercooler on yours? Mine is standard. It gets up around 480 degrees at 100-110km/h
@@Alex.G Ah I see, mine definitely holds boost better and it is a more linear curve, doesn't bounce around as much. It is a bit of trial and error, usually try and set boost with the needle valve fully closed (fastest spoolup) then adjust the dawes at a reasonable boost level (15psi for stock?). Then its just opening the needle valve with the engine idling till the actuator arm just drops from the grub screw and work from there, if it's too aggressive a spool rate or you get limp mode, try opening the needle valve for less of a spool rate, about 1/4 turn at a time, it's quite frustrating and takes some finesse. Yes I have a standard intercooler that was rewelded previously, EGR blocked, 3" straight through exhaust, complete rebuild done 55,000kms ago.
@@bistratoaie2901 The larger exhaust definitely helps with EGT's and the higher the boost the lower the temps also, I run 20psi and temps usually sit around 250 - 300°c at 100km/h with 33" tyres. I have found that as the Dawes vales wear a bit they seem to get stuck and cause a slight delay in controlling the boost, the newer ones have a different material ball inside that seems to last better.
Sounds like its running a bit lean, the richer the diesel AFR, the hotter it'll run. Mine was regularly exceedung 500 deg C, but not developing more than about 7PSI which would bleed off to 5 as the revs went up, I disconnected my wastegate actuator as I thought it was faulty, and now I'm seeing around 10PSI plus as I get up into 3000 plus RPM and the EGTs with the resultant leaner mixture (more air), peak at around 430 now at WOT uphill. On an old 80 series with a 1HZ.
i used the constant power & illumination from my headunit. plus i dont like poking around my ignition wires too much. Good guide though. and nice guages, need to upgrade mine, my EGT guage is stuffed :(
@@Alex.G all good mate...I just left the original off and used the new pod pillar. 👍 Where would you suggest also for me to install a boost gauge. Do I mount it with an adapter on the intercooler...?
Your boost seems to be all over the place, id recommend a tillix valve as that will help stabilise the boost and keep it say at a constant 15psi under load.
@@darcykeddell4930 a tillix kit will limit the max boost, takes a bit of time to adjust(with the assistance of a boost gauge). And you also get a needle Valve so you can control the spool up of the turbo aswel definitely improves drivability
Looks like your intercooler might be leaking at the crimps.. the black oily marking on the core near the tank at the intercooler inlet. Common issue with the genuine intercoolers. Thanks for another great video, Alex.
@@Alex.G Yes, agreed it is leaking (all the factory ones do eventually), the black mark is from the oil that gets ingested back into the motor from the rocker cover via the intake pipe (a catch can helps minimise this). You can mix up some liquid detergent & water and spray or lightly pour over the joins (same as you do when looking for a gas leak) and with a little bit of throttle with the transmission in drive (while foot is firmly on the brake) to bring up the boost a bit - if there are bubbles there is a leak. It is easier to do this with two people. I changed mine over to a fully welded one and as such have no more issues.
Another great vid. Thanks Alex for the detailed information. In fact, I liked the video so much, I watched the ads all the way through. It just made cents... 🥁
Im doing this on my GQ currently, got everything else sorted but I wish my wiring was that tidy under the dash 😢 trailer brake controller, immobiliser etc all adding up to a big mess 😂
Looks too hard for me. I've got a CRD patrol so use an OBDii ultragauge for boost(which also can have alarms), and a small rectangular EGT gauge down near the shifter. I do like yours better though!
@3:35 You mention the best place for the boost sender and I agree that's an accurate reading of what is going into the motor but curious is it safer to have it Tee'd in near the turbo like everyone usually does to measure what the turbo is making? Even though there may be some wastage after wouldn't it be more important to make sure you're not pushing the turbo too hard or making more than it's rated for.. eg. Turbo rated for 19psi and you're seeing 19psi on the guage at the intake but the turbo could be making more and you don't see it because you're reading it only entering the engine? Love the vid btw just curious to learn before I do this myself
Very true points there, I guess it depends on your individual case. For my ZD30 the turbo is known to be happy with high boost but there's a factory ECU fuel cut if the boost hits something like 16 or 18 psi, so for me it's important to see that I'm accurately hitting no more than 15psi
Hopefully you have better luck than I did with the Saas Trax gauges. I had the same two as you, both were replaced under warranty at different times and then a third one played up about 6 months out of warranty.
Haha yep, I was thinking of changing them to red just to be easier on my eyes! But someone else here said they put a bit of window tint over them and that worked pretty good
hi great video ! i have a D4bF which is basically a updated hyundai version of the 4D56t (pajero engine 2.5Ltdi) - it has a mechanical injection pump , my question is, i want to install a boost gauge , should i tap into the injection pump boost line or into the wastegate boost line ,,,, interested on your thoughts
Great video, like all of yours, thanks. One question, would you please be able to tell me which clip-on mirror you are using over your reverse mirror? thank you.
If that’s a zd30di or crd - do not allow your egt’s to exceed 500 period. Add catch can, mad sensor must remain clean, Dawes valve, 3” exhaust, blank egr. It might stay alive. Must do essential mods to keep zd30’s alive
About 20 years too late for me, but better late than never I suppose. The second pod is good for an Auto trans temp gauge if you have an Auto and tow. Engine temps and pressures are better handled by an ECUtalk display for the pre-CRD DI's. If you already have the Dawes/Needle valve you need to tweak it down a bit to control that boost. Better safe than sorry. From memory I had to put a small ball bearing in the pressure line to the boost gauge to settle it down a bit. Not enough to block it obviously, but enough to settle out the spikes.
I run mine on 20psi (max) via a Dawes valve without any reprogramming, only time it goes into limp mode is if the engine is stone cold and I hit those pressures. Every Patrol is different I have found, I used to be only able to run 18psi until I installed a 3" exhaust and opened up all the intake plumbing including new intercooler - now I can run 20psi. The higher the boost the lower the EGT.
@@dingodazz3724 I have a Tillix setup much the same as the Dawes, my gu patrol goes into limp at around 16-17 psi. Im fitting 3' exhaust hopefully this weekend, I want those nasty EGTs to be as low as possible.
@@bigfella6629 question, did your egt drop after going 3 inch system. your turbo dump looks a lot smaller th 3 inch. I'm guessing a larger intercooler will reduce it more than 3 inch system
Hopeful that you read this, but i have a few questions Why not use piggy back fuses for the wires And does it matter if all the power wires are to accessories or does it need to be all separate, i dont mind having the light on all the time
You could definitely use piggy back fuses, I just wasn't into the habit of using them when I made this. If you put everything to accessories there is a chance you lose memory (gauges won't keep the colour you set them to, alarms won't keep their set parameters) but I'm not 100% on that cos it's been a few years since I did it
Real, they just love to eye out my patrol instead of looking for looking for missing kids or murders. Got there priorities straight. Even got given trouble when it was grandpa spec, litterally only a roofrac and awning
So mate did you not wire into the dimmer for your instrument cluster (so the gauge dims when you dim the instrument cluster) ? I’m installing redarc gauges and they recommend wiring to a ‘dash light negative’. Just wondering.
Man if standard(ish) engines are boosting to 25 instead of 12 it's no wonder the 3.0 got a bad rep for blowing up! Most engines would have issues if you ran double the boost!
Thanks, Alex! Just so you know I sat through a 2 minute Ford advert before I got to your video. Ford 🤢. Just curious and so that I know I'm not wasting my time whilst trying to be of support, if your viewers watch the ads and don't skip them, does that help you out?
Hahaha you poor bastard I appreciate this even more now 😄 we get paid for the unskippable 10 second ones, but they aren't worth as much as those full length ads IF the viewer doesn't skip them. If they skip after the 5 seconds the advertiser doesn't pay. So yes, your 2 minute Ford torture was worth it 😄
Hi, mate. Just subbed. Listen, Always been a Patrol guy but just recently went to Navara after something nice and kinda special fell in my lap at a good price. So this question, while relating to Nav is not actually Nav specific. I have both boost and a Pyro pillar mounted gauges in my new truck. Thing is they're too bright at night and after trying window tint unsuccessfully am reverting to my original plan of tapping into a dimmable circuit at the rear of the dash dimmer button which, by chance is located to the lower right of the steering wheel only about 15 centimetres away from the pillar mount. Doable? Any issues you think may complicate things? I'm sorry I don't yet know your name but Id like to use it. Instead I'll have to just say thanks, mate. Lol. Cheers. Look forward to many more videos (and learning your name :P ).
Hmmmm interesting idea! I had thought of putting tint on mine as well for the same reason, glad to know now that it wouldn't work 😄 I like your idea and as far as I know, lights are dimmable because you are actually reducing the voltage going to them. I'd say probe the wire with a multimeter and see what the voltage is doing. However, the problem I can foresee is the gauges are probably backlit by LED lights, which don't dim the same way halogens do. So really, I'm not entirely sure how your plan will work out, but the most important part is that I don't reckon it'll do any damage to the vehicle or gauges. Can't hurt to try! One more thing that occurs to me as I finish writing this, how about trying some VHT Niteshades paint? You know the stuff people tint tail lights with? You can layer that up as many times as you need to then. The name is Alex by the way, thanks for watching 🙂
@@Alex.G Ha. Thanks for the response. Yeah the window tint was ultimately not only too dark during the day to be effective at night but it was tricky af to cut. Seems simple right? I was going to use a protractor to mark it out and it wasn't until I was sitting there about to begin that I realized of course that would leave a hole poked right into the middle of it and you cant use the gauge itself even if you could easily remove and unplug it because you'd get the outside edge, not the inside. Lol. Ok, so what to do? I have to admit I have never been the sharpest tool in the shed but I ended up using consecutive dots measured with a ruler to create a circle but that was shit so spent forty minutes going through every circular object in the house and ended up with a vitamin bottle lid that was exactly right. Haha. Anyway, yeah, so I had four different scrap sheets of tint I went and conned out of my local tint guy for free and even with the three choices it took me three layers to get it to where it needed to be for night driving. A) It doesn't layer very well and B) it was, the following morning as mentioned, then too dark for daylight. So back to the original plan which I like better anyway and see as "the right way to do it". I'm just a little worried its not as straight forward as I expect and will fry something so you lead, ill follow? Lol. I think plenty of people have this problem. Haha. Cheers, Alex. Rhys. Bundaberg.
Hope you have better luck with those saas gauges. General consensus is they are absolute dog shit. had 3 sets within a year and they all died. Are you apart of the zd30 warriors group on facebook? Seems everyone has the same experience and i mismtakenly bought it despite the warnings. I really did like the price and looks and features though (alarm and daisy chaining). Have had better luck with the Saas muscle series . Got boost is 0-30 psi (mechanical), water temp 40-120c, and egt 0-900C been on for over a year now and havn't had a problem, even if the egt probe gets wet
Hi Alex, great video. I know you haven’t had the gauges all that long, but how are they going so far? Any issues? Reason I ask is because I’m looking into getting the same egt gauge/boost gauge but google reviews on them don’t seem to be too crash hot. Are they worth my time? Or should I just buy once and cry once and go a little bit more premium? If I do go for them I’ll probably get a dinner as well because heard pretty bright at night time. P.s I can spot Albany highway from a mile away! Looks like you’re up in Mt.Nasura somewhere 😀
I'm usually all for buy once cry once but the alternatives are SO expensive! I dunno if you've read the comments here but there are a few people who've had them fail. In my case, all good except for that brightness. Definitely be prepared for that!
I think I might do one hey. Mine doesn't seem to be doing what it's supposed to do anymore. I either have to put a new one in or at least tune this one up
@@Alex.G yeah when i noticed about stopping the old zd blowing up lol. a guide to a tillix for preventative grenades would be good almost like a video series on NADS
@@Alex.G I found as the Dawes valves get older they tend to stick a little bit and hence can put the pressure up a bit higher than one would like, they have a new one out now that has a ceramic ball in it - supposed to be superior to the older style that has a steel ball inside.
I found those gauges too bright at night even with the dimmed setting on the yellow wire. Like someone with bright headlights smashing your pupils. Annoying as fk I went JRD gauges instead.
@@Alex.G fair enough. Try this - Your ignition wire to the gauges, probably the red wire, if the white went to battery take the ignition 12+ wire to a switch on your dash somewhere. So you can isolate it. Dont switch the battery wire as you'll lose the memory setting.
@@devarmont87 Thanks; All ready done (about 4 1/2 Years Ago), Mounted the Resistor in a spot that it seems it was made for it, (Panel Underneath the Steering Column)
I have lost count of how many bloody SAAS gauges that keep failing. The other big issue with gauges and especially the Trax, backlight is very bright for night work and button to change is burried in the pod as well as needing memory power. Need to get you boost under control. Get rid of the Dawes shit and kill the EGR. Your EGT's are telling you a lot. Too hot.
Hot tip with pulling wires whipper snipper plastic wire. Its firm enough but not sharp like tie wire.
Boost and EGT is the instruments that all diesel 4x4 need to have.
Absolutely!
Looking forward to the water temp and oil pressure gauge install video!
If anyones got any issues getting through the firewall grommet, I find a metal coathanger unfolded does it perfectly, little bit of wd40 or some dishwashing liquid helps bring the cable through easier
nice one mate...i couldn't understand what the " +12v battery" connection was for on the wring diagram when I bought my gauge, so I rang SAAS ... I was told they have one gauge technician and he only works Monday and Tuesdays can you believe that! i spoke to two other blokes at SAAS and none of them could tell me what that constant 12V feed was for. Then I find this vid of yours and boom now i know its to cover the memory settings ...nice one
I've got those gauges in my GU Patrol. I've found them really good and have had no issues with them. The EGT will go crazy if the probe gets wet but comes good once the probe dries off. They are however very bright at night even when dimmed, so I've put a piece of window tint on them.
How long have you had them? I had 3 sets within warranty period (replaced twice) and the third died shortly after warranty period was up. Worst thing i've ever spent money on. I did like how they lloked though and i agree the 7 segment part is far too bright.
Oh man, waaayyyy too bright at night! A piece of window tint is a great idea
@@TheJanope13 Mine have been going strong for close to 3 years now I think. I've had no issues with them, but I know that some people have problems the SAAS Trax gauges.
@@Alex.G
I have the RedArc gauges and to dim them down, I've put a 1K (or is it a 5K?) ohm variable resistor in series with my dimmer control.
@@DMSVICAU smart move there mate.... obviously just a resistance dimmer
That boost line pick up in the intercooler pipe is in wrong place hence why it over boosts on occasion also you should have a dedicated boost line just for the gauge, meaning you shouldn't share that boost line with another line. I get my boost from the intercooler where the map sensor is with an adapter..
Mine does this also i run mine from adapter randomly started about 3 mths after installation
Great video again bud :) it helped me decide that if I want to get some of these installed.... I need to take it to a Mechanic..... cause I can't Weld nor do a lot of Auto Sparky stuff, like this LOL :) Cheers, Don (Dons Shed and Xplor Overland)
It's important to know and understand your skill sets and none of us are stupid, we just all excel at different things.
Good call. Well done.
Good work mate!
I installed the same dual boost gauge a few months back and it performs great, your boost is a little worrying tho, I'd be looking at installing a tillix and needle valve for a nice linear boost control, also my EGTs are sitting alot lower than yours I'm yet to see 400°c even at 100km/h on the highway I'm sitting at roughly 350°c, I have recently had a ECU remap tho.
It does have a dawes and needle valve on it which I believe does the same as tillex, so maybe it just needs some tuning? Problem is I have no idea how the shit works 😟 interesting about the EGTs, standard intercooler on yours? Mine is standard. It gets up around 480 degrees at 100-110km/h
@@Alex.G Ah I see, mine definitely holds boost better and it is a more linear curve, doesn't bounce around as much.
It is a bit of trial and error, usually try and set boost with the needle valve fully closed (fastest spoolup) then adjust the dawes at a reasonable boost level (15psi for stock?). Then its just opening the needle valve with the engine idling till the actuator arm just drops from the grub screw and work from there, if it's too aggressive a spool rate or you get limp mode, try opening the needle valve for less of a spool rate, about 1/4 turn at a time, it's quite frustrating and takes some finesse.
Yes I have a standard intercooler that was rewelded previously, EGR blocked, 3" straight through exhaust, complete rebuild done 55,000kms ago.
@@bistratoaie2901 The larger exhaust definitely helps with EGT's and the higher the boost the lower the temps also, I run 20psi and temps usually sit around 250 - 300°c at 100km/h with 33" tyres. I have found that as the Dawes vales wear a bit they seem to get stuck and cause a slight delay in controlling the boost, the newer ones have a different material ball inside that seems to last better.
Sounds like its running a bit lean, the richer the diesel AFR, the hotter it'll run. Mine was regularly exceedung 500 deg C, but not developing more than about 7PSI which would bleed off to 5 as the revs went up, I disconnected my wastegate actuator as I thought it was faulty, and now I'm seeing around 10PSI plus as I get up into 3000 plus RPM and the EGTs with the resultant leaner mixture (more air), peak at around 430 now at WOT uphill. On an old 80 series with a 1HZ.
i used the constant power & illumination from my headunit. plus i dont like poking around my ignition wires too much.
Good guide though. and nice guages, need to upgrade mine, my EGT guage is stuffed :(
was it difficult getting it to ur headunit?
Sass do a Egt guage that starts at zero at a cheaper cost , Rather than buying the trax gauge.
Hope that helps mate 👍👍
I only just bought one of the pods for my Nissan patrol, and youre original pillar doesnt back on.
It was too tight to fit both... 👍👍
I do recall it being a bloody tight fit yes. I somehow managed. It probably won't come off again with ease haha
@@Alex.G all good mate...I just left the original off and used the new pod pillar. 👍
Where would you suggest also for me to install a boost gauge. Do I mount it with an adapter on the intercooler...?
can you do the video on oil pressure and water temp?
Best video yet. I know it will only get...thanks for sharing
Your boost seems to be all over the place, id recommend a tillix valve as that will help stabilise the boost and keep it say at a constant 15psi under load.
Looking at them for mine, got much experience with them? Do they make it so the boost cannot go above a certain value or not
@@darcykeddell4930 a tillix kit will limit the max boost, takes a bit of time to adjust(with the assistance of a boost gauge). And you also get a needle Valve so you can control the spool up of the turbo aswel definitely improves drivability
@@TheLukesolly what does the needle valve change to I assume make it spool quicker?
They help alot I got tillix Boost and valve controller works great got mine set at 13psi can turn it up if needed definitely recommend
Oh thank god you speak Australia, good video am going to do this to my truck!
Looks like your intercooler might be leaking at the crimps.. the black oily marking on the core near the tank at the intercooler inlet. Common issue with the genuine intercoolers. Thanks for another great video, Alex.
Thanks Evan. I have often wondered if the intercooler is shagged. Not too sure how to check it.
@@Alex.G Yes, agreed it is leaking (all the factory ones do eventually), the black mark is from the oil that gets ingested back into the motor from the rocker cover via the intake pipe (a catch can helps minimise this).
You can mix up some liquid detergent & water and spray or lightly pour over the joins (same as you do when looking for a gas leak) and with a little bit of throttle with the transmission in drive (while foot is firmly on the brake) to bring up the boost a bit - if there are bubbles there is a leak. It is easier to do this with two people.
I changed mine over to a fully welded one and as such have no more issues.
Another great vid. Thanks Alex for the detailed information. In fact, I liked the video so much, I watched the ads all the way through. It just made cents... 🥁
Im doing this on my GQ currently, got everything else sorted but I wish my wiring was that tidy under the dash 😢 trailer brake controller, immobiliser etc all adding up to a big mess 😂
It's a pity you stopped making these type of videos Alex.
You probably already know this Alex, but cold soldering is never the answer! Also if you need a hand with the dawes + needle setup let me know
Looks too hard for me. I've got a CRD patrol so use an OBDii ultragauge for boost(which also can have alarms), and a small rectangular EGT gauge down near the shifter. I do like yours better though!
Should have run it right into the manifold so your laptop can tell you when the welds on the intake are gonna go.
🤣
As long as he doesnt granny shift, he should be ok
Also should have put it in the manifold to get a proper reading. Especially if you're using its readings as a basis for tuning.
i have had nothing but trouble with saas gauges i would go for autometer. But there trim might be ok
@3:35 You mention the best place for the boost sender and I agree that's an accurate reading of what is going into the motor but curious is it safer to have it Tee'd in near the turbo like everyone usually does to measure what the turbo is making?
Even though there may be some wastage after wouldn't it be more important to make sure you're not pushing the turbo too hard or making more than it's rated for.. eg. Turbo rated for 19psi and you're seeing 19psi on the guage at the intake but the turbo could be making more and you don't see it because you're reading it only entering the engine?
Love the vid btw just curious to learn before I do this myself
Very true points there, I guess it depends on your individual case. For my ZD30 the turbo is known to be happy with high boost but there's a factory ECU fuel cut if the boost hits something like 16 or 18 psi, so for me it's important to see that I'm accurately hitting no more than 15psi
Hopefully you have better luck than I did with the Saas Trax gauges. I had the same two as you, both were replaced under warranty at different times and then a third one played up about 6 months out of warranty.
A few people in the comments here seem to have had some trouble! So yeah fingers crossed I guess 😄
@@Alex.G the other problem with them is they're way too bright at night but I imagine you've already worked that out haha
Haha yep, I was thinking of changing them to red just to be easier on my eyes! But someone else here said they put a bit of window tint over them and that worked pretty good
Yeah, a mate of mine had issues with them also - due to that I bought Redarc ones (no issues 3 years later), but I had to sell one of my arms....
hi great video ! i have a D4bF which is basically a updated hyundai version of the 4D56t (pajero engine 2.5Ltdi) - it has a mechanical injection pump , my question is, i want to install a boost gauge , should i tap into the injection pump boost line or into the wastegate boost line ,,,, interested on your thoughts
Ah the good old testing grounds of Albany highway
Great video, like all of yours, thanks. One question, would you please be able to tell me which clip-on mirror you are using over your reverse mirror? thank you.
If that’s a zd30di or crd - do not allow your egt’s to exceed 500 period.
Add catch can, mad sensor must remain clean, Dawes valve, 3” exhaust, blank egr. It might stay alive. Must do essential mods to keep zd30’s alive
Haha "mad" sensor, I think you mean "MAF".... but I agree they do go mad and off the rails at times :)
Never guess what i'm hooking up in the morning... and on an 02 patrol.
About 20 years too late for me, but better late than never I suppose. The second pod is good for an Auto trans temp gauge if you have an Auto and tow. Engine temps and pressures are better handled by an ECUtalk display for the pre-CRD DI's. If you already have the Dawes/Needle valve you need to tweak it down a bit to control that boost. Better safe than sorry. From memory I had to put a small ball bearing in the pressure line to the boost gauge to settle it down a bit. Not enough to block it obviously, but enough to settle out the spikes.
Appreciate these videos for those who like to diy. Thanks man 🍻🍻
@Intents you can make a video how to connect the gauge for oil pressure at zd30? Thanks!
You should be aiming for 15psi on your DI ZD30 unless you have had the ecru reprogrammed to not go into limp mode if your boost goes to high..
I run mine on 20psi (max) via a Dawes valve without any reprogramming, only time it goes into limp mode is if the engine is stone cold and I hit those pressures. Every Patrol is different I have found, I used to be only able to run 18psi until I installed a 3" exhaust and opened up all the intake plumbing including new intercooler - now I can run 20psi. The higher the boost the lower the EGT.
@@dingodazz3724 I have a Tillix setup much the same as the Dawes, my gu patrol goes into limp at around 16-17 psi. Im fitting 3' exhaust hopefully this weekend, I want those nasty EGTs to be as low as possible.
@@bigfella6629 question, did your egt drop after going 3 inch system. your turbo dump looks a lot smaller th 3 inch. I'm guessing a larger intercooler will reduce it more than 3 inch system
Nice work Alex. Cheers Steve
Hopeful that you read this, but i have a few questions
Why not use piggy back fuses for the wires
And does it matter if all the power wires are to accessories or does it need to be all separate, i dont mind having the light on all the time
You could definitely use piggy back fuses, I just wasn't into the habit of using them when I made this. If you put everything to accessories there is a chance you lose memory (gauges won't keep the colour you set them to, alarms won't keep their set parameters) but I'm not 100% on that cos it's been a few years since I did it
@Alex.G thanks for the reply mate, I think my new gauge doesn't work so iv pulled everything apart for nothing haha just one of those days
Pillar pods will get you a yellow sticker nowadays.
Real, they just love to eye out my patrol instead of looking for looking for missing kids or murders. Got there priorities straight. Even got given trouble when it was grandpa spec, litterally only a roofrac and awning
I'm in the US so I don't know what that means, can one of you guys explain?
yellow sticker=defected vehicle=no driving said vehicle until you get it re-approved@@wcsoblake85
@@wcsoblake85 yellow sticker means car is defected and need to go over pitts for inspection
So mate did you not wire into the dimmer for your instrument cluster (so the gauge dims when you dim the instrument cluster) ? I’m installing redarc gauges and they recommend wiring to a ‘dash light negative’. Just wondering.
Man if standard(ish) engines are boosting to 25 instead of 12 it's no wonder the 3.0 got a bad rep for blowing up! Most engines would have issues if you ran double the boost!
Did anyone else find the egt sensor lead and loom too short?? I'm struggling to get it to reach the pillar location
On the savage gauages what colour wire goes to the blue one ?
Hello you didn’t show the video to install the water temp gauge connection
You're right, I didn't 🙁 they remain disconnected to this day haha I still haven't got around to it
Awesome but I'm paying someone else to do mine... wish I had the time, patience and nouse to do myself though. Another great video mate, thank you.
Thanks, Alex! Just so you know I sat through a 2 minute Ford advert before I got to your video. Ford 🤢.
Just curious and so that I know I'm not wasting my time whilst trying to be of support, if your viewers watch the ads and don't skip them, does that help you out?
Hahaha you poor bastard I appreciate this even more now 😄 we get paid for the unskippable 10 second ones, but they aren't worth as much as those full length ads IF the viewer doesn't skip them. If they skip after the 5 seconds the advertiser doesn't pay. So yes, your 2 minute Ford torture was worth it 😄
@@Alex.G Well, maybe they’ll show me a Bronco ad next time. That’s a Ford I might be able to get behind.
Ummm...there are 2 red and white wires going to ignition. A thinner one and a thicker one.
must’ve don’t something wrong, my egt only reads 140 or so and doesn’t go up when going up hills etc
Hi, mate. Just subbed.
Listen, Always been a Patrol guy but just recently went to Navara after something nice and kinda special fell in my lap at a good price.
So this question, while relating to Nav is not actually Nav specific.
I have both boost and a Pyro pillar mounted gauges in my new truck.
Thing is they're too bright at night and after trying window tint unsuccessfully am reverting to my original plan of tapping into a dimmable circuit at the rear of the dash dimmer button which, by chance is located to the lower right of the steering wheel only about 15 centimetres away from the pillar mount.
Doable?
Any issues you think may complicate things?
I'm sorry I don't yet know your name but Id like to use it. Instead I'll have to just say thanks, mate. Lol.
Cheers.
Look forward to many more videos (and learning your name :P ).
Hmmmm interesting idea! I had thought of putting tint on mine as well for the same reason, glad to know now that it wouldn't work 😄
I like your idea and as far as I know, lights are dimmable because you are actually reducing the voltage going to them. I'd say probe the wire with a multimeter and see what the voltage is doing.
However, the problem I can foresee is the gauges are probably backlit by LED lights, which don't dim the same way halogens do.
So really, I'm not entirely sure how your plan will work out, but the most important part is that I don't reckon it'll do any damage to the vehicle or gauges. Can't hurt to try!
One more thing that occurs to me as I finish writing this, how about trying some VHT Niteshades paint? You know the stuff people tint tail lights with? You can layer that up as many times as you need to then.
The name is Alex by the way, thanks for watching 🙂
@@Alex.G Ha. Thanks for the response.
Yeah the window tint was ultimately not only too dark during the day to be effective at night but it was tricky af to cut.
Seems simple right? I was going to use a protractor to mark it out and it wasn't until I was sitting there about to begin that I realized of course that would leave a hole poked right into the middle of it and you cant use the gauge itself even if you could easily remove and unplug it because you'd get the outside edge, not the inside. Lol.
Ok, so what to do?
I have to admit I have never been the sharpest tool in the shed but I ended up using consecutive dots measured with a ruler to create a circle but that was shit so spent forty minutes going through every circular object in the house and ended up with a vitamin bottle lid that was exactly right. Haha.
Anyway, yeah, so I had four different scrap sheets of tint I went and conned out of my local tint guy for free and even with the three choices it took me three layers to get it to where it needed to be for night driving.
A) It doesn't layer very well and B) it was, the following morning as mentioned, then too dark for daylight.
So back to the original plan which I like better anyway and see as "the right way to do it". I'm just a little worried its not as straight forward as I expect and will fry something so you lead, ill follow? Lol.
I think plenty of people have this problem.
Haha. Cheers, Alex.
Rhys. Bundaberg.
The ZD30 motor only blew up on the Patrol as the motor was set up differently to the ZD30 motor in the Navara.
Saved me a lot of ass ache cheers mate
Hope you have better luck with those saas gauges. General consensus is they are absolute dog shit. had 3 sets within a year and they all died. Are you apart of the zd30 warriors group on facebook? Seems everyone has the same experience and i mismtakenly bought it despite the warnings. I really did like the price and looks and features though (alarm and daisy chaining). Have had better luck with the Saas muscle series . Got boost is 0-30 psi (mechanical), water temp 40-120c, and egt 0-900C been on for over a year now and havn't had a problem, even if the egt probe gets wet
can you dim them at night. they are very bright?
No they can't be dimmed. There's plenty of discussion about that in the comments here too
Hi Alex, great video. I know you haven’t had the gauges all that long, but how are they going so far? Any issues? Reason I ask is because I’m looking into getting the same egt gauge/boost gauge but google reviews on them don’t seem to be too crash hot. Are they worth my time? Or should I just buy once and cry once and go a little bit more premium? If I do go for them I’ll probably get a dinner as well because heard pretty bright at night time.
P.s I can spot Albany highway from a mile away! Looks like you’re up in Mt.Nasura somewhere 😀
I'm usually all for buy once cry once but the alternatives are SO expensive! I dunno if you've read the comments here but there are a few people who've had them fail. In my case, all good except for that brightness. Definitely be prepared for that!
@@Alex.G thanks Alex, appreciate the response.
How do you find those Saas Gauges? Have heard the Saas ones aren't the best?
So far so good for me! A bit too bright at night though
@@Alex.Gthanks.
Should Dona Dawes/tillix guide Alex
I think I might do one hey. Mine doesn't seem to be doing what it's supposed to do anymore. I either have to put a new one in or at least tune this one up
@@Alex.G yeah when i noticed about stopping the old zd blowing up lol.
a guide to a tillix for preventative grenades would be good
almost like a video series on NADS
@@Alex.G I found as the Dawes valves get older they tend to stick a little bit and hence can put the pressure up a bit higher than one would like, they have a new one out now that has a ceramic ball in it - supposed to be superior to the older style that has a steel ball inside.
Australia gets all the good shit.
Really?
where is the oil pressure and water temp video ?
It never happened. Both those gauges are still not hooked up in the vehicle 😄
@@Alex.G oh that’s disappointing
I found those gauges too bright at night even with the dimmed setting on the yellow wire.
Like someone with bright headlights smashing your pupils. Annoying as fk
I went JRD gauges instead.
Yeah I find the same but I couldn't afford better ones. I just wear my sunnies at night when I drive now
@@Alex.G fair enough.
Try this -
Your ignition wire to the gauges, probably the red wire, if the white went to battery take the ignition 12+ wire to a switch on your dash somewhere. So you can isolate it.
Dont switch the battery wire as you'll lose the memory setting.
To solve the "Bright Gauge Problem". I put a 1K Variable Resistor in Line with my Dimmer Controller.
@@DMSVICAU good idea. Make sure you heat shrink over the resistor to eliminate potential shorting.
@@devarmont87
Thanks;
All ready done (about 4 1/2 Years Ago),
Mounted the Resistor in a spot that it seems it was made for it, (Panel Underneath the Steering Column)
I have lost count of how many bloody SAAS gauges that keep failing. The other big issue with gauges and especially the Trax, backlight is very bright for night work and button to change is burried in the pod as well as needing memory power.
Need to get you boost under control. Get rid of the Dawes shit and kill the EGR. Your EGT's are telling you a lot. Too hot.
Just run a fuse tap lol
Wont need them in a petrol 4wd 💦💦😘