Design Threads and Inserts for 3D Printing with [ Shapr3D ]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ม.ค. 2023
- Shapr3d iPad Tutorial
UPDATED TUTORIAL- • Custom 3D Printable Th...
In this tutorial, we will be using Shapr3D to learn the principles of design for creating custom 3D printed threads and inserts to ensure successful prints. Throughout the tutorial, I will provide examples and step-by-step instructions to ensure that you are able to follow along and create your own custom projects. Enjoy :)
I have been saying since the beginning that Shapr3D is the best on the iPad with Apple pencil. If you’d like to support this channel and enjoy more free content please use the provided affiliate links, thanks! ;)
Apple iPad- www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJLCGYQK/...
Apple Pencil- www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1WWBJK/...
Digital Calipers- www.amazon.com/dp/B08FDHTP8N/...
Screw Pitch Gauge- www.amazon.com/dp/B000X37XGS/...
#3Ddesign #3Dprinting #Shapr3D #CAD #threads #inserts #custom #prototype #tolerance #threadgauge #threaddesign #shapr3dapp
UPDATED TUTORIAL- th-cam.com/video/ncMF0KNrcgY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pinI_GcRJlIiii2Y
Conical/tapered thread- th-cam.com/video/p4baZDZ4FRQ/w-d-xo.html
Seriously, why/how you don't have more subscribers bewilders me. 🤔
Thanks for another great Shapr3D tut!
Haha thanks :) education is sadly not as important as entertainment these days so the growth of the channel is slow lol
I just make a bolt, copy it and scale it up 0.08, shove it into a part and subtract it from it, works really well for me
Thats an option, however that changes the thread vs. this way it does not.
For small bolts like m3 etc i dont even make thread, i just make a hole thats 0.1mm smaller for the bolt to have something to bite into. This video is mainly for custom thread designs.
@J. Lake 3D I model parts to be printed on a massivit machine. I make large molds and use the method I mentioned to include a way to lock both sides to each other. We don't worry about the threads being the same, they worry about the job getting done, and it works. Whatever works
Thats how business works lol as long as the customer is happy 😜
Thanks for these indept tutorials. Learning a lot of new techniques! Keep them coming.
No problem :)
Great video, as always!
I learnt something useful thanks!
Amazing tutorial, as always 💥
Amazing thanks for the video.
I'm simply blown away by what all this program can do. I wasn't sold on it at first but after using the free version and learning the program for basic designs I found my self at a crossroads where the low resolution just wouldn't work for me anymore and I made the decision to purchase the program and after trying to learn other cad and then realizing how frustrating it can be, this program really does take the frustration out of it all and it's actually enjoyable to see your ideas come to life. I look forward to learning more advanced features of the program and I even bought the smart pen to go with it. I just have never been a fan of subscription based software and I hate everything it stands for so it's just a shame they don't give you an option to buy the program outright as I'm just a hobbyist and I'm not making any money of of my designs so I'm either forced to stop believing that stls should be free for everyone and start charging for my designs or try to learn one of the more complicated programs. One trick he didn't mention in this video, is if you want your parts to fit together, when you go to slice it, use the exclusive mode under slicing tolerance in cura. I don't know what it's called in other slicers
I fell in love with this software the moment I saw it, bought an iPad pro the same night even though I had 0 CAD experience. This program felt natural to work with. I’ve been paying pro since then and have 0 regrets. Advertise your services as a modeler and make just enough to cover the cost of the subscription. Be honest with your customers though if the project is too much for you. Do whatever you want with the rest of the year 😁👍
Regarding the tolerances, not all slicers have a tolerance function, so the idea is to design a part that is ready to print on any platform.
Great tutorial!
Glad you liked it ;)
Great video and tutorial. Only feedback would be to explain the tool selection and the buttons you are selecting. I couldn’t zoom in quick enough to catch what tool you chose during each part. Keep up the great work. I found this helpful and informative
I’m redoing this project in a slower fashion really soon. I will focus on making sure everything is outlined and understood 👌
@@JLake3D I would have to agree with the above post. And with the updates and you working on what looks like an ipad, I couldn't make heads or tails out of a couple of steps. Like all that you did just before and how you got to split view. I tried to follow but all I get is a circle on the bottom of my sketch. Please let us know when you make the update.
It’s a video i’m really looking forward to doing but work keeps getting in the way. But it’s at the top of my priority list 👍
th-cam.com/video/ncMF0KNrcgY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pinI_GcRJlIiii2Y
Nice video. Could you make video on creating UNC 1/4-20 bolt and bolt hole, showing how you got the dimensions to create it? Thank you.
Idk if I’m gonna make that exact size, but I’m gonna be making a video explaining the entire process from start to finish very soon 👍
Cool, I didn't even know there was a transparent feature. Couldn't quite follow everything on first pass but thanks.
I’m working on slowing down for the videos 😅👍
I'm trying to copy the lid off a Juan Valdez coffee jar I thought the jar would make great spice jars but I want a new 3d printed lid. Would it be easier to measure everything , recreate the jar and make two parts or is there a way to just make the lid?
If you measure the jar thread and depth required, you can make just the lid. But I like to 3D scan something like that for reference as I’m working on it. A thread guage is nice to have as well.
Hey, thanks for making such a useful video. Is tolerance supposed to be a gap between inner and outer thread? As I understood in the video the gap going to be tolerance 0.2mm + size of the outer cutout (0.4mm) which makes it 0.6mm between inner and outer thread. Did I get this right?
Great question, 0.2 is the correct answer. It is the distance between the inner and outer thread and there is no more. 0.2 is the cutout.
I’ll be making an updated video soon that will be wayyyy more informative. Its been delayed but coming soon 👍
If you don't delete the insert part (that you made to subtract from the outer sleeve) then you can use that in future projects to create threads in mating parts, right? So I can just make a screw-and-thread file, and each time I need a different size I can add it to the file so I've got a repository of screws and threads for future use. I think the thing I hadn't really appreciated before going through this (and this is the bit I was getting hung up on) is that it doesn't really matter at all what pitch or whatever my threads are, because I'm not making them to fit other things, just each other. So this is a really simple way of fastening elements of a product together without having to worry about including hardware or it being too fiddly to put together at the other end.
Exactly. Beauty of creating it yourself. You get to keep the file, learn from it, and have a completely unique solution to a very specific situation. 3D design and printing is wonderful :)
Nothing to stop you from creating a part for mass production either though ;)
Your videos are great finished projects, but could you explain what you are doing as you are doing it? It's hard to follow along because you can't see what you are taping on with the pen because it only shows the pen for a split second.
I’ve gotten better at explaining what I do in later tutorials 👍 I plan to redo this video in the future when my schedule clears up and I will go in depth on this topic 🤘
th-cam.com/video/ncMF0KNrcgY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pinI_GcRJlIiii2Y
Thanks. How do you add the tolerance for the bolt and the insert? I’ve tried to scale a copy of the threaded bolt using a formula but the threads don’t align.
You simply offset your sketch when you are still in the sketch phase. Once you do that you have the form for the revolve.
@@JLake3D thanks for the quick reply. I tried offsetting but it didn’t work. I know it’s me, I’ll keep trying.
@3Dgifts i’ll be making a more in depth remake of this soon. It should have been done already but I have been SWAMPED at work. Will get it done asap.
@@JLake3D Thank you!
I just tried a few more times, but no go. I did it once by accident lol, but can’t repeat the process. I’m basically trying to create a custom thread, large ones with spacing in between, to screw a 14mm diameter rod into a 22x22mm tall post. Figured bigger threads with spaces, less turns. Still can’t make that clearance 🤬
Hard to follow tut but the basics are good. Replace face never worked for me.
Heres an updated tutorial :) right before the parametric update.
Custom 3D Printable Threads Tutorial [ Shapr3D ]
th-cam.com/video/ncMF0KNrcgY/w-d-xo.html
Hey man, so im really getting close. But when i subtract the outer thread from the insert the tolerance is remaining as a floating piece of material. What am i doing wrong?
You extruded the insert up and did a new body. I’m creating the insert with a hole first, move it into place, and then use the subtract tool. Highlighting the insert then the outer threads. And if it weren’t for the tolerance material remaining it would work.
When you do the subtract, make sure to click “keep modified bodies.” That should work for your situation (thats just my opinion without seeing your part). If not, then make sure you have enough clearance so that the extra material is not connected to the new body in a way that impedes the tool from functioning.
@@JLake3DSomething must have changed in the app, this does not work any more. I wonder how many updates there’ve been in the last 6 mo since you posted this. I’ve got almost 6 hrs into this and as far as i can tell im doing everything you’re doing. And i also realized you never showed the insert after the subtraction. I’m not saying it didn’t actually work for you, but im also not saying it did. It’s hard to tell until you go to print…”got parts dangling in mid air” is a pretty big oooooooof. I bet ur insert, in this video, didnt work either.
I designed everything with a 45° angle so there is nothing printing in mid air unless you chose a steeper angle. Even with the updates this design process is the same.
I know some people have trouble following along because I go through some steps quickly, but if I didn’t then this video would be an hour long.
If you want, email me the file in Shapr format and i’ll take a look at it to see where you went wrong.
Go to my website and use the “contact us” form.
@@dtdionneyou could also join my Discord if thats easier- discord.gg/FWsfAAVK
@@JLake3D I posted a video, the link’s in the comment above. You can clearly see the tolerance gap, as material, in the insert. Ive got at least 10 hr’s watching and pausing this video, I understand everything you’re doing now except the part when you “said” you deleted this tolerance material that’s causing my issue. I made the threads, offset lines and offset loop exactly how you did, 45° angle. I copied and union’d the insert threads. I extruded a new body and subtracted exactly how you did. It’s the tolerance material left in the insert that is floating in mid-air. The only difference is i made a 1mm tolerance while you made like .2mm tolerance. I can’t share the file, but I appreciate it.
Thanks for the video. But please slow down. 😉 Couldn’t follow some key aspects you flew by without details.
Yes alot of people already told me lol 😅
I’ll be remaking this project slowed down next week ;)
th-cam.com/video/ncMF0KNrcgY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pinI_GcRJlIiii2Y
thanks but i hope next time when you select a tools, please make it slower, i have to repeat the video few times to see what you clicked
Yes I’ve learned to slow down a bit in later tutorials :)
th-cam.com/video/ncMF0KNrcgY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pinI_GcRJlIiii2Y
You glossed over the subtraction part which was very important. You have a specific selection you did not mention and i rewatched maybe 10 times to figure out what it was. Good video but go slower and explain better. Thank you
Yea I have a tendency to go a bit too fast on these tutorials just because thats how I actually work. Need to remember to slow down. I’m planning to start doing a new video format where i’ll have a little video in the corner of my hand movements from another camera so that nothing will be missed 👌
@@JLake3D sounds good. Looking forward to it. Great video. I was able to get to the desired outcome. Thank you. Now its time for the printing test 😂😂
What is the specific selection? Because I’m having a hard time subtracting what I want. I followed all these steps to a T and it’s only subtracting the smaller outside part of the threads, not the actual beveled groove of the thrrads
@TomTomB00M I make 2 subtractions, one at 7:20 and the other at 8:50.
th-cam.com/video/ncMF0KNrcgY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pinI_GcRJlIiii2Y
Nice tutorial but fillet != filet
Yep, got a flood of comments on another video teaching me to say it the right way 😂👍 it was fun while it lasted though 😆
This could have been a fantastic tutorial however if like me you are very new to CAD in general and Shapr3D then it is impossible to follow along when you are doing stuff like projecting, splitting etc and not taking the time to explain what you are clicking on, where it is in the tools menu etc.
Sorry about that, just like you are new to CAD I was new to making tutorials back then. I keep wanting to remake this video but life gets in the way because I run my channel for free. Consider becoming a member or donating and that will help me make more tutorials and make them better if I will have more time to spend on them instead of trying to pay the bills :)
Btw, check out my newer tutorials, i’ve learned to slow down and explain things better ✌️
th-cam.com/video/ncMF0KNrcgY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pinI_GcRJlIiii2Y
great tutorial!But tooo much fast the explaining, as not english is my language...and a super new on Shep3d...a more calm tut can be easier to follow 😅
Theres a slow version of this tutorial coming in the next few weeks, as many people have requested a slower version 👍
th-cam.com/video/ncMF0KNrcgY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pinI_GcRJlIiii2Y
You must have done some things that you didn’t show man, and that’s a death nail for a tutorial…sorry.
I’m a linux expert and I’ve seen others do what you just did and it always pissed me off because it crushes enthusiasm and excitement. But!! If that’s ur goal…WELL DONE!
I edited out a couple missteps along the way, but if you follow the tutorial you will get the end result you are looking for 👍
Just rewatched the tutorial and I don’t see any issues with it. Can you tell me what part you are having issues with specifically? I may be able to help.
@@JLake3D oh goodness now I feel terrible. I was really frustrated and sometimes I can get mean, forgive me. I’m just getting started, I was good at Visio and I’m just really strugglin. I thought the built in tutorials would just continue with the water bottle and walk us through making the threaded water bottle cap used as the model for the early tutorials but they didn’t…and that’s kinda what I need.
Gimme a min to bring it back up…
@@JLake3D you go really fast and that made it frustrating too.
• 1:16 - you did something I haven’t been able to duplicate. You tapped on the tall one then the short one then it appeared you tapped again on the short one, held and dragged upper right making a purple square then tapped done. That does not work for me, and to get the purple box I have to hold and drag to the upper left, but I don’t ever get the done box. I don’t have any idea how important that step is so I just stopped trying at that point.
I used the project tool, then tapped both bodies, then tapped on the “front plane” which you can access before using the project tool by clocking “front” in the top right square. It’s the same thing as using a construction plane, except it’s zeroed in on the 0x, 0y, 0z front.
Yes I go fast, I apologize but thats just my regular speed after using the app for so many years. TH-cam has a “slow down function” which you can use to slow down the video and make it easier to follow along 👍