Hey just wanted to say thank you for doing these videos. I know basically nothing about cars and I've needed to do some work on my girlfriend's old school 850 Turbo Wagon over the last couple weeks.. Spark plug replacements, distributor cap/ ignition rotor, battery replacement, oil change, and now brakes (about to do them in a few minutes).. I've had a lot of first time DIYs lately and you've helped me with nearly all of them. Thanks so much Ben and FCP for these videos.
Considering how cheap they are you should probably do them just because you're already at it. Also inspect the rod bushings for the rear links at the differential while you're was back there, it's a good time to do that as well.
That's a tough one to answer, if your rotors are heavily damaged they can shorten the life of your pads significantly, and you'll just have to replace them again when you go to do your rotors, I would strongly suggest doing everything at the same time, especially since you're saying your rotors are pretty damaged.
you prolly dont care but if you guys are bored like me during the covid times you can watch all the new movies on InstaFlixxer. I've been binge watching with my gf for the last weeks xD
When installing the new rotor he stated in the video (5:04) that the vehicle did not have a locating pin. As for how to remove the locating pin before removing the axle, there are other FCP videos will show you how.
Thanks Ben and FCP for the very useful video. The only thing I had problems with was the emergency brake. Couldn't get the rotosr off and ended up hammering them off. That bent the spring clips that hold the shoes close to the back plate. I wonder how I could have gotten around that.
Make sure to remove the locating stud for Volvo OEM wheels before trying to remove the rotor. I thought the stud was screwed into the rotor, but it actually passes through the rotor and screws into the hub. I was hitting toward the front edge of the rotor trying to break it free, and it wasn't until the locating stud started bending that I realized it was holding the rotor on. Removing the stud before trying to take the rotors off was not mentioned in the video because the 850 had aftermarket wheels (so the stud wasn't there to begin with). To his credit, Ben did mention later in the video when installing the new rotors to put the locating stud in if you still have OEM wheels. Hopefully I didn't damage anything (other than the locating studs and the front edges of my rotors) with all my pounding. Regardless, I thought this was a very helpful video for a first timer.
I purchased the parts from FCP to replace my rear brakes and rotors on my "99" V70 non-turbo. I wish my salesperson had recommended me to purchase the anti-rattle spring and new pins. Thankfully I discovered the need for these before I started, and got them locally. My question for you is about sliding the brake pads into the caliper. My old ones were corroded into place, and took tremendous effort to get out. The new pads did not slide right in, and I eventually had to tap them in with a hammer. I compared them with the old pads, and they seemed to be the same shape and size. On the second side, I used a small wire brush to clean up some of the grime in the caliper. Was that correct? I didn't do any bleeding either, but I followed another FCP video on opening the brake fluid reservoir before retracting the piston, and pumping the brakes as a final step. The brakes seem to be working fine, but I just wanted to ask if I should have bled the lines, and if the tight fit of the pads indicates a problem?
You would only have to bleed the lines if you removed a hydraulic hose or if you felt that there may be air in system but it's not a requirement when switching out the pads. You shouldn't have had to tap the pads in so I'm wondering if there was some pre-existant brake dust build up or maybe your pistons weren't compressed enough. I hope that helps.
Defo should be cleaning the corrosion off the hub flange/mounting surface, then verifying its not got any run-out with a dial gauge before putting a new rotor on. Then if your really picky you can put some wheel bolts in it with spacers, lightly torque evenly, then check the run out with the new rotor, mftr will give you permissible values. With front brakes (sliding caliper style) you can get away with a tiny bit more run-out than most, but these opposing piston fixed caliper types are very sensitive to it.
wondering to replace a new set up for volvo 242GT , would be good idea, to replace, at the same time the weel bearings? Since the whole thing is out!? What you say?
Quick question man. Thanks to this vid ill be able to replace pads myself. I'm Not replacing rotors at this moment, they're pretty damaged. How long will my new pads be "safe" til rotors be replaced? 1997 850R. Thanks
great video.wish I saw those rotors before I order bosch quiet cast. haven't used them yet but have drilled rotors now so we'll see how the difference is!
You''ll want to check out our site fcpimport (dot) com for pads and rotors for your car, we've got a couple you can chose from, including some drilled/slotted variations and Akebono pads like Ben uses in this video. Hope that helps.
In most cases you won't have to bleed the brakes from a pad and rotor replacement. It usually only needs to be done when replacing brake lines, calipers, etc when air is allowed to get into the system.
Hi! I have a question only the right wheel takes when i pull the handbrake do i need to change the handbrake wire or can i just adjust it? and how do i adjust it? Thank you!
It sounds like you may have a frozen cable. I don't think adjusting would fix the issue and you'll have to inspect the system for an accurate diagnosis.
Ben or anyone else at FCP, how about a rear caliper change DIY video? I am doing it right now on my V70 I 1997 which should be the same kind of job as on your Volvo 850.
It definitely was not. I've learned that there is a gear wheel that can be accessed from behind the backer plate, and with a flat screwdriver can be painstakingly rotated backward to back the shoes off. Oops. I'm sure it matters that I've bent those springs a bit, but it seems to be working just fine.
Yes, that little gear adjusts the space between the e-brake pads. I would think if that was your issue you would have noticed it while driving though as your pads would have been in constant contact with the rotor.
FCP Euro I think those rotors had been on there so long that there was a lip on that inside surface, so though the shoes weren't constantly touching, they were in beyond the lip. I should have known better. Either way, your video was a great help and I saved $240 on the labor, and FCP delivered far better parts than I would have gotten at the local garage for the same price. The weather cooperated too, 45 and sunny.
I prefer to take a little longer and to vacuum out the crud from the airbox. I equate not doing this with changing the oil and not the filter. Maybe I'm too anal, but it's cheap insurance.
Hey just wanted to say thank you for doing these videos. I know basically nothing about cars and I've needed to do some work on my girlfriend's old school 850 Turbo Wagon over the last couple weeks.. Spark plug replacements, distributor cap/ ignition rotor, battery replacement, oil change, and now brakes (about to do them in a few minutes).. I've had a lot of first time DIYs lately and you've helped me with nearly all of them. Thanks so much Ben and FCP for these videos.
Thanks so much for the kind words Robbie! Glad we could help!
Considering how cheap they are you should probably do them just because you're already at it. Also inspect the rod bushings for the rear links at the differential while you're was back there, it's a good time to do that as well.
That's a tough one to answer, if your rotors are heavily damaged they can shorten the life of your pads significantly, and you'll just have to replace them again when you go to do your rotors, I would strongly suggest doing everything at the same time, especially since you're saying your rotors are pretty damaged.
Sweet! Thanks for the vid. How about adjusting the parking brake?
The locating pin is a small, allen key bolt on the face of the rotor, usually 6 or 7mm. Simple to remove, just unscrew it. Hope that helps!
Locating Pin requires 10mm deep socket.
If my memory serves me correctly it's similar to the process on the S60, I've pasted the link in the description above. Hope that helps!
you prolly dont care but if you guys are bored like me during the covid times you can watch all the new movies on InstaFlixxer. I've been binge watching with my gf for the last weeks xD
@Harlem Eugene Definitely, I have been using Instaflixxer for months myself =)
Very good video and easy to understand. It pains me though to see those rusty calipers get put back on without a wire brush and re paint.
Glad we could help!
Ben our hero! You are an inspiration!
Thank you. Just purchased my 94’ 850. Exactly what I need.
Enjoy your new purchase!
While you have wheel off, it wouldn't be a bad idea to adjust the e-brake engagement as well; especially when replacing the rear rotors.
When installing the new rotor he stated in the video (5:04) that the vehicle did not have a locating pin. As for how to remove the locating pin before removing the axle, there are other FCP videos will show you how.
Thanks Ben and FCP for the very useful video. The only thing I had problems with was the emergency brake. Couldn't get the rotosr off and ended up hammering them off. That bent the spring clips that hold the shoes close to the back plate. I wonder how I could have gotten around that.
This may sound like a dumb question, but was the emergency brake engaged at the time?
That was a very helpful, it's great to see what one is getting into beforehand!
Make sure to remove the locating stud for Volvo OEM wheels before trying to remove the rotor. I thought the stud was screwed into the rotor, but it actually passes through the rotor and screws into the hub. I was hitting toward the front edge of the rotor trying to break it free, and it wasn't until the locating stud started bending that I realized it was holding the rotor on. Removing the stud before trying to take the rotors off was not mentioned in the video because the 850 had aftermarket wheels (so the stud wasn't there to begin with). To his credit, Ben did mention later in the video when installing the new rotors to put the locating stud in if you still have OEM wheels. Hopefully I didn't damage anything (other than the locating studs and the front edges of my rotors) with all my pounding. Regardless, I thought this was a very helpful video for a first timer.
I purchased the parts from FCP to replace my rear brakes and rotors on my "99" V70 non-turbo. I wish my salesperson had recommended me to purchase the anti-rattle spring and new pins. Thankfully I discovered the need for these before I started, and got them locally. My question for you is about sliding the brake pads into the caliper. My old ones were corroded into place, and took tremendous effort to get out. The new pads did not slide right in, and I eventually had to tap them in with a hammer. I compared them with the old pads, and they seemed to be the same shape and size. On the second side, I used a small wire brush to clean up some of the grime in the caliper. Was that correct? I didn't do any bleeding either, but I followed another FCP video on opening the brake fluid reservoir before retracting the piston, and pumping the brakes as a final step. The brakes seem to be working fine, but I just wanted to ask if I should have bled the lines, and if the tight fit of the pads indicates a problem?
You would only have to bleed the lines if you removed a hydraulic hose or if you felt that there may be air in system but it's not a requirement when switching out the pads. You shouldn't have had to tap the pads in so I'm wondering if there was some pre-existant brake dust build up or maybe your pistons weren't compressed enough. I hope that helps.
Defo should be cleaning the corrosion off the hub flange/mounting surface, then verifying its not got any run-out with a dial gauge before putting a new rotor on. Then if your really picky you can put some wheel bolts in it with spacers, lightly torque evenly, then check the run out with the new rotor, mftr will give you permissible values. With front brakes (sliding caliper style) you can get away with a tiny bit more run-out than most, but these opposing piston fixed caliper types are very sensitive to it.
wondering to replace a new set up for volvo 242GT , would be good idea, to replace, at the same time the weel bearings? Since the whole thing is out!? What you say?
Not a bad idea at all, our pads were still in good condition so we didn't address that in this video.
Thank you for the video! This helped me out a lot!
Why didn't you install the anti squeal shims?
Quick question man. Thanks to this vid ill be able to replace pads myself. I'm Not replacing rotors at this moment, they're pretty damaged. How long will my new pads be "safe" til rotors be replaced? 1997 850R. Thanks
The procedure is slightly different on the 850R and V70R models- bigger pads, correct?
great video.wish I saw those rotors before I order bosch quiet cast. haven't used them yet but have drilled rotors now so we'll see how the difference is!
Is the V70 98 Model same as the 850?
can i use this rotors and brake pads on a lancer ES 2.0 2006???
Caliper bolts torque - 58 nm or 43 ft lbs, source:
www.volvotips.com/index.php/850-2/volvo-850-s70-v70-c70-service-repair-manual/volvo-850-brake-system-service-repair-manual/
You''ll want to check out our site fcpimport (dot) com for pads and rotors for your car, we've got a couple you can chose from, including some drilled/slotted variations and Akebono pads like Ben uses in this video. Hope that helps.
Back the pistons without opening the bleeding does not damage the abs this car ???
Correct, It does not damage the ABS system on this particular vehicle.
Do I need to bleed the breaks after I am done replacing the pads and rotors?
In most cases you won't have to bleed the brakes from a pad and rotor replacement. It usually only needs to be done when replacing brake lines, calipers, etc when air is allowed to get into the system.
Hey thanks for the guide but can load up à video about how to bleed air from the brakes
We've got one right here: Volvo 940 Brake Bleed (Pentosin) FCP Euro
Brake line clips 😂, haven't seen those in 10 years on my wagon
Hi!
I have a question only the right wheel takes when i pull the handbrake do i need to change the handbrake wire or can i just adjust it? and how do i adjust it? Thank you!
It sounds like you may have a frozen cable. I don't think adjusting would fix the issue and you'll have to inspect the system for an accurate diagnosis.
Ben or anyone else at FCP, how about a rear caliper change DIY video? I am doing it right now on my V70 I 1997 which should be the same kind of job as on your Volvo 850.
Hello Bjorn, we'll keep that in mind for our upcoming Volvo videos.
Thanks just done mine now, very useful
Great video!
Thanks Dillon!
this was VERY useful. Thank you!
What is the purpose of brake pad shims?
Mainly to Reduce squeal and vibration.
How much is big diametar of this discs?
I believe these are 295mm.
Great video very clear thanks very much
It definitely was not. I've learned that there is a gear wheel that can be accessed from behind the backer plate, and with a flat screwdriver can be painstakingly rotated backward to back the shoes off. Oops. I'm sure it matters that I've bent those springs a bit, but it seems to be working just fine.
Yes, that little gear adjusts the space between the e-brake pads. I would think if that was your issue you would have noticed it while driving though as your pads would have been in constant contact with the rotor.
FCP Euro
I think those rotors had been on there so long that there was a lip on that inside surface, so though the shoes weren't constantly touching, they were in beyond the lip. I should have known better. Either way, your video was a great help and I saved $240 on the labor, and FCP delivered far better parts than I would have gotten at the local garage for the same price. The weather cooperated too, 45 and sunny.
never lubricate the pads, there is shims for this reasons, rear brakes preheats often on 850 and for this reason there is special shims
I prefer to take a little longer and to vacuum out the crud from the airbox. I equate not doing this with changing the oil and not the filter. Maybe I'm too anal, but it's cheap insurance.