Robert my Volvo ticked over 300,000 2 months ago and still going strong. Thanks to all the detailed info you provide I hope to get another 50 to 100,000 out of her
Hi Robert DIY! You are the absolute BEST Teacher! Thoroughly presented with a succinct process and clear videos and important tidbits of care taking and often overlooked details. I'm glad I found you. Thank you!
I just followed this video and replaced rear brakes and rotors. Back from a successful test drive - love this channel. Thanks for the down to earth, well articulated videos.
Today is the big day!! Going to be replacing both rear rotors, brake pads, hub bearings, rear springs and emergency brake pads. The rear shocks and mounts already changed. Hopefully this will solve the metal crunching sound I get going over bumps. So glad my nephew wants to help. Thank you for your videos.
Thanks again Robert, watching your videos always helps me gauge whether or not getting into a project should be easy or way beyond my skill level. This one with the help of your video was a snap!
The job is all done!! I even flushed my brake system since I had to bleed the line. I also had the lower spring bolt spin on me. Somehow the bolt broke loose from the mount. I was able to cut the bolt, then I was able to remove it. Luckily, I was able to get one from the junkyard. Can't wait to rest up tomorrow.
Sebastian Schwarz LOL, I think I'm going to replace my rear suspension soon. It is simply worn out, including my parking brake system that does NOT work.
My buddy literally drove the brakes off the car. One of the rear rotors disintegrated and now looks like a drum brake. Can’t get it off because there is no lip on the rotor to grab to pull off, even with a puller. Any suggestions on getting the rotor off? I may have to cut the shield off to get a place on the back of the rotor remnant for the puller to grab, but looking for alternative.
have you ever repaired handbrake on a 1999 volvo v70 r.... btw you re doing such a remarkable job putting up all your always so pertinent videos... :) thank you
@@RobertDIY I am in Canada looking at the parts stores, they say there is 3 different rear rotors for my car and they cant be sure which one they need to order in for me. The dealer wants 100$ apiece which I can't pay.
@@RobertDIY Thanks for the tip Robert, I took a bunch of measurements off my old rotor and will research more. I watched a video stating I must bleed off the fluid at the caliper while resetting the piston due to having ABS, does this make sense to you?
Hello Robert, I have a 98 S70 Volvo that currently needs the rear driver side caliper/ break pads repaired. Thanks to your video I have a better understanding how to go about the repair, I just don't know how to bleed my breaks during or after the process, could you explain this procedure for me?
After. Try to let as little air in the system as possible. I usually start the car so vacuum helps. Have someone press on the brakes, then open the bleeder until the person in the car tells you the pedal is at the floor or all the air is out of the caliper. Takes about 1 second per brake application. Then the person will pump 3 times and hold (then you open the bleeder for 1 second). You repeat the process until no air comes out of the caliper. Always be careful that you don't run out of fluid in the reservoir under the hood. If you get air in your master cylinder you can destroy it.
The rear end went up from 25 inches to 27 inches after replacing them with IPD's HD springs. I replaced the parking brake pads, but I also think the cable is rusted somewhere along the cable. Seems like a common issue.
Hey Robert, I recently replaced my rear brakes on my 99 S70 and one rear wheel spins more freely than the other. I think the caliper is causing the wheel to drag just a little bit because there is a bit more wear on the rotor on the side that isn't as free. One question though: Would a rear sticking caliper cause the car to pull towards the side that is sticking a little bit? I haven't gotten a front end alignment since March, so I'm probably due for one.
Thank you for your videos! I replaced my heater core recently and heavily relied on your video. I am having trouble pushing in one of the caliper pistons all the way. I have not loosened the bleeder nut (only loosened the reservoir cap in the engine bay). Should I also loosen the bleeder nut, and will I have to flush the brake line if I do so?
Love surprises, everything went smooth as butter on the passenger side, but discovered that my driver side caliper is frozen on one side. Crap!! Now I have to make a trip to the junkyard tomorrow morning and find a working caliper. Next, I have to figure out how to bleed the system after installing the replacement. The new zinc rotor and the blue spring look fantastic!!
Hey Robert I could use some of your expertise. I did rear brakes earlier today and I have a question about my E-Brake. I installed new parking brake shoes, and tightened the tensioner in the center console. The E-Brake works just fine but now makes this noise when I press the button down on the parking brake lever and pull it up and down. It sounds like it's coming from one, if not both rear wheels.. Almost like something is sticking back there. I was thinking the tensioner springs for the parking brake shoes might need a little grease, or maybe I have a bad cable. Any idea what my problem might be?
Robert DIY I tried that, but that didn't work for me. The lever in the car is adjusted how I've always had it, but the parking brake won't hold the car on a hill (5% gradient). It barely works on a very light gradient (1% gradient).
LJRossPhoto Just took the rotors off and had a friend pull the parking brake up and down for me, and it doesn't look like the parking brake shoes are moving at all on either side....
Robert, great video! I have some questions though. I recently changed all four brakes (pads and rotors). I Jack up the rear wheels and they don't spin freely. Should they? There seems to be a grinding noise as they spin, then they come to an abrupt stop. Everything is torqued up and snug. Could it be the pistons are stuck? I had a heck of a time getting the new pads in.
Hi robert i wonder if you have done any tutorial for handbrake adjustament on a s70/v70/850,my 99 v70 tdi 2.5 Auto needs a little more tension. thanks so much for your amazing videos. Regards from Seville,Spain
gonzalo giron There is a adjustment in the had brake area. I think you can pull the cover in the arm rest area and adjust it from there with a T50 or something like that.
Robert my Volvo ticked over 300,000 2 months ago and still going strong. Thanks to all the detailed info you provide I hope to get another 50 to 100,000 out of her
Hi Robert DIY! You are the absolute BEST Teacher! Thoroughly presented with a succinct process and clear videos and important tidbits of care taking and often overlooked details. I'm glad I found you. Thank you!
You are very welcome
I just followed this video and replaced rear brakes and rotors. Back from a successful test drive - love this channel. Thanks for the down to earth, well articulated videos.
Thanks for sharing
Today is the big day!! Going to be replacing both rear rotors, brake pads, hub bearings, rear springs and emergency brake pads. The rear shocks and mounts already changed. Hopefully this will solve the metal crunching sound I get going over bumps. So glad my nephew wants to help. Thank you for your videos.
Sebastian Schwarz Nice, let me know how it goes.
Thanks again Robert, watching your videos always helps me gauge whether or not getting into a project should be easy or way beyond my skill level. This one with the help of your video was a snap!
Good deal. Thanks for watching.
Love your videos! Thanks yet again for the very informative help. Paul Fewel in California.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Robert, your instruction made my replacement went w/o any problem :-) From Thailand
I realize Im kinda off topic but does anyone know of a good place to stream new series online ?
@Arjun Dexter i would suggest FlixZone. Just google for it =)
@Arjun Dexter lately I have been using flixzone. You can find it by googling =)
The job is all done!! I even flushed my brake system since I had to bleed the line. I also had the lower spring bolt spin on me. Somehow the bolt broke loose from the mount. I was able to cut the bolt, then I was able to remove it. Luckily, I was able to get one from the junkyard. Can't wait to rest up tomorrow.
Sebastian Schwarz LOL, I think I'm going to replace my rear suspension soon. It is simply worn out, including my parking brake system that does NOT work.
My buddy literally drove the brakes off the car. One of the rear rotors disintegrated and now looks like a drum brake. Can’t get it off because there is no lip on the rotor to grab to pull off, even with a puller. Any suggestions on getting the rotor off? I may have to cut the shield off to get a place on the back of the rotor remnant for the puller to grab, but looking for alternative.
I have no idea
Hey Robert I took the pin off the rear rotor and it still is stuck. What am I missing?
A large hammer. Try not to destroy the hub.
have you ever repaired handbrake on a 1999 volvo v70 r....
btw you re doing such a remarkable job putting up all your always so pertinent videos... :)
thank you
nickodemo1 Not yet.
is the brake retainer clip important cause mines broke???' volvo s70 98
De'Von Bouldin I think brakes are over rated. The clips do serve a purpose so I'd say get some replacements.
Why can I not find the correct rear rotors for my 2000 Volvo S70 AWD 5cyl turbo? I want aftermarket due to dealer cost.
I have no idea, where are you looking?
@@RobertDIY I am in Canada looking at the parts stores, they say there is 3 different rear rotors for my car and they cant be sure which one they need to order in for me. The dealer wants 100$ apiece which I can't pay.
Well, they are different from FWD rotors, so you can eliminate those. Try to get the pn from the dealer or a parts website.
@@RobertDIY Thanks for the tip Robert, I took a bunch of measurements off my old rotor and will research more. I watched a video stating I must bleed off the fluid at the caliper while resetting the piston due to having ABS, does this make sense to you?
Hello Robert, I have a 98 S70 Volvo that currently needs the rear driver side caliper/ break pads repaired. Thanks to your video I have a better understanding how to go about the repair, I just don't know how to bleed my breaks during or after the process, could you explain this procedure for me?
After. Try to let as little air in the system as possible. I usually start the car so vacuum helps. Have someone press on the brakes, then open the bleeder until the person in the car tells you the pedal is at the floor or all the air is out of the caliper. Takes about 1 second per brake application. Then the person will pump 3 times and hold (then you open the bleeder for 1 second). You repeat the process until no air comes out of the caliper. Always be careful that you don't run out of fluid in the reservoir under the hood. If you get air in your master cylinder you can destroy it.
The rear end went up from 25 inches to 27 inches after replacing them with IPD's HD springs. I replaced the parking brake pads, but I also think the cable is rusted somewhere along the cable. Seems like a common issue.
Sebastian Schwarz Bad cables. Yuk!
Hey Robert, I recently replaced my rear brakes on my 99 S70 and one rear wheel spins more freely than the other. I think the caliper is causing the wheel to drag just a little bit because there is a bit more wear on the rotor on the side that isn't as free.
One question though: Would a rear sticking caliper cause the car to pull towards the side that is sticking a little bit? I haven't gotten a front end alignment since March, so I'm probably due for one.
+ZynovFTW parking brake shoes are probably dragging. Does the parking brake work? It won't make the car pull.
My parking brake doesn't work. There were no shoe material left and we didn't know how to change the shoes so we just left it alone.
Parts in there can break as well. Have you wanted the parking brake shoe video?
Thank you for your videos! I replaced my heater core recently and heavily relied on your video. I am having trouble pushing in one of the caliper pistons all the way. I have not loosened the bleeder nut (only loosened the reservoir cap in the engine bay). Should I also loosen the bleeder nut, and will I have to flush the brake line if I do so?
Are you using some kind of clamp? Really should not have to loosen the bleeder or reservoir cap. You should probably replace all of the fluid anyway.
th-cam.com/video/8zfyVIRnMjY/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/S7kfLRa5jcg/w-d-xo.html
@@RobertDIY thanks for the quick reply! I used a C clamp and also used the old pad and a screwdriver as a lever to try and push it in.
Love surprises, everything went smooth as butter on the passenger side, but discovered that my driver side caliper is frozen on one side. Crap!! Now I have to make a trip to the junkyard tomorrow morning and find a working caliper. Next, I have to figure out how to bleed the system after installing the replacement. The new zinc rotor and the blue spring look fantastic!!
Sebastian Schwarz Good to know you found a bad caliper. I forgot those rears had 2 pistons.
Hey Robert I could use some of your expertise. I did rear brakes earlier today and I have a question about my E-Brake. I installed new parking brake shoes, and tightened the tensioner in the center console. The E-Brake works just fine but now makes this noise when I press the button down on the parking brake lever and pull it up and down. It sounds like it's coming from one, if not both rear wheels.. Almost like something is sticking back there. I was thinking the tensioner springs for the parking brake shoes might need a little grease, or maybe I have a bad cable. Any idea what my problem might be?
LJRossPhoto Probably the tensioner adjusting to where it needs to be. I would pull it up and down about 20 times, slowly and see if that cures it.
Robert DIY I tried that, but that didn't work for me. The lever in the car is adjusted how I've always had it, but the parking brake won't hold the car on a hill (5% gradient). It barely works on a very light gradient (1% gradient).
LJRossPhoto Just took the rotors off and had a friend pull the parking brake up and down for me, and it doesn't look like the parking brake shoes are moving at all on either side....
Maybe you should adjust them all the way in and let them adjust themselves out.
LJRossPhoto Everything looks fine to me. If it's not getting stuck when you release them I would not worry about it.
Robert, great video! I have some questions though. I recently changed all four brakes (pads and rotors). I Jack up the rear wheels and they don't spin freely. Should they? There seems to be a grinding noise as they spin, then they come to an abrupt stop. Everything is torqued up and snug. Could it be the pistons are stuck? I had a heck of a time getting the new pads in.
+Henri Leclipteux what kind of car do you have?
Great video!
You are welcome.
Can you please redo this vid with better light if you ever change rear pads again. thanks
Sure.
1:37 Oh. Hello there!
+XantheFIN Wow! How funny. Two years later. Learn something new everyday.
Hi robert i wonder if you have done any tutorial for handbrake adjustament on a s70/v70/850,my 99 v70 tdi 2.5 Auto needs a little more tension. thanks so much for your amazing videos.
Regards from Seville,Spain
gonzalo giron There is a adjustment in the had brake area. I think you can pull the cover in the arm rest area and adjust it from there with a T50 or something like that.
I should put you on speed dial. Lol!!
Sebastian Schwarz LOL, anytime.