To be honest, I was losing more garments to the weight gain than I will to the weight loss. My entire wardrobe of shirts were beginning to pull across the chest. That is a massive problem…
Makes you realise how some so called bespoke tailors aren’t actually giving a bespoke service. I’ve had first fittings with a tailor as a new customer that have lasted less than 5 mins. It’s so hard to find a good bespoke tailor these days. This tailor sets a standard of what we should expect.
@@kirbyallison we'll see if it is the best suit though. From watching this series there seem to be quite a few areas to work on each time, not just small adjustments. Of course this time we can't put it on Paolo.
@@teekue It’s because we actually do the necessary work for every customer. A lot of people will just overlook changes that need to be corrected to the pattern because it’s a lot of work. Making clothing for somebody with extremely sloping shoulders is not easy when you don’t use thick shoulder pads like everybody in London does. As I said in the beginning of the video, try making a structured looking suit, but without all the extra guts that make the job a hell of a lot easier. We’re not doing things to make them easy. We’re doing things to make them one of a kind and different from everybody else.
@@paolomartoranobespoke I get what you are saying. And obviously you turn out some good results. From my own experience though, and I am not talking about Saville Row tailors since I haven't ever commissioned something in London, fittings where a lot of things have to be changed each time are not a good sign. I've had tailors nearly nail jackets on the first fitting without a previous pattern and also ones where the first fitting was terrible. Personally I can only say that the former worked out better in every case. Thanks for taking the time to explain your approach though! It is very much appreciated.
I am a lowly fitter with the once adequate Jos. A. Bank. (how the mighty have fallen). I find these videos extremely useful for my job. I am so riddled with clients that have no idea how things should fit or look or anything. They literally know nothing. I have worn suits everyday for ten years. I went through the skinny phase of my teens-mid 20s, now as a more mature man at 30, I really appreciate cut around the body than shape *to* the body. My suits these days actually fit and are comfortable (I wear our made-to-measure half-canvas suits). I try to apply these principles to my clients, where I often have to say no, you can't do that. No, it is impossible. It is not easy. But I have the language and ability to learn from watching masters.
I really like that weight and clean drape much more than some of Kirby's (still properly-fitting,) closer suit ensembles. Looks great - love your production!
I used to buy cheap suits and realized I was spending way more than if I just bought 2-3 good quality custom suits. Hopefully soon I can make the leap to bespoke.
It does prompt the question that all the other bespoke suits by all the other tailors will now not fit correctly ! The danger of changing weight dramatically… or buying expensive suits that may not fit in the future. Good health is however the most important thing
Losing weight is not that bad. Most tailors will also adjust your suits for free. Gaining a lot of weight is problematic though. At some point you will run out of seam allowance.
@@teekuetoo much weight lost is a problem because you cannot make an armhole smaller without shortening the coat. You cannot narrow the shoulder without having to lengthen sleeves (with holes cut). Recently with weight loss drugs we are seeing customers figurations change including their posture and even going to bow legged to knock kneed.
@@paolomartoranobespoke Do you find a similar set of issues with clients who put on weight due to muscle gain from beginning weight training programs?
As fascinating and luxurious as bespoke suiting must be it seems to me, apart from the high cost, overly time consuming and with too precise a fitting a quick way to having a bad fit as you lose or gain weight!? Who really has the time unless one is a member of the idle wealthy or is part of the sartorial milieu?!
Kirby, I would put that suit on hold until your weight stabilises, unless you are getting it free as a promotion. It looks like the proportions are made for a 20 lbs heavier frame all round, and not sure a waist tuck is all that is needed. Kudos to Paolo though, as he is competing with some of the finest tailors in the world, but i would press the hold button and take up the project sometime down the road...
This was familiar to me - I lost 25 pounds and much of my wardrobe was unfixable - some things just couldn't be brought in enough without impacting proportions. Oh well, it was a great excuse to buy a bunch of new clothes. :)
In addition to the weight loss, I did become quite sick in March while traveling with the family. That probably cut another 5lbs easily off my weight, which took me past my target weight. Unfortunately, Paolo caught me for my prior fitting at a high water mark and this one at a low water mark.
@@kirbyallison sorry to hear that Kirby. Personally I think the suit that you had made in London about a year ago was your best fit, where they squared off your shoulders with the jacket..that one pinged.
Take a look at our Divij Bespoke videos. He’s $1,500 - $2,500. Great value and he covers a lot of US Cities. Different product. But exceptional. And Paolo has a MTM service that is exceptional as well. $3,500 to $4,500. Same guy. Same attention to detail with fit. Just not full bespoke.
Well loosing weight is the best part because you can look now better in suits than ever...! So, does it mean, you can make more new suits also from england? 😂😂😂
All good! Sorted some things out from last year and it caused me to drop a bunch of weight. That and I got really ill mid-March, which made the problem worse. But getting back to normal! Thanks for asking!
Paolo is becoming a new favorite for me. Comes across as someone from a bygone era, but still relatable. Always interesting content.
Maybe because he looks like Al capone?
I love listening to Paolo. I always learn something watching him work
You’re too kind. Thank you.
He’s great! Very, very thorough!
About time we see Paolo again! Been waiting for this update! Let us see shall we!
Take a shot every time Kirby says “You know”
This was interesting to watch. Hopefully Paulo can adjust the suit and Kirby will have a beautiful end result.
Kirby back to his early 30s physique, nothing more incentivising to lose a few pounds than having a $100.000 bespoke suit collection you can’t wear.
@@frankynonos3793 interesting take, if you aren’t an advocate for bespoke tailoring why are you here in the comments?, just for a whinge? Lol
@@kiely4561 I'm assuming that he means it "holds no value to anyone but him" because it's bespoke to Kirby and his body lol
To be honest, I was losing more garments to the weight gain than I will to the weight loss. My entire wardrobe of shirts were beginning to pull across the chest. That is a massive problem…
This was the most painful part of losing weight. The diet and exercise weren't so bad. Disposing of my wardrobe hurt.
Classic Kirby. Best content on TH-cam
Out of all the bespoke tailors seen on the channel, this tailor I’ve found the most interest in, and hopefully one day have a suit made from him!
Not a tailor.
absolutely love the intro to the video quite fitting for one of my favorites
May I say I love everything Paolo Martorano wears. He's such a stylish guy & he makes it look effortless
Thank you!
Makes you realise how some so called bespoke tailors aren’t actually giving a bespoke service. I’ve had first fittings with a tailor as a new customer that have lasted less than 5 mins. It’s so hard to find a good bespoke tailor these days. This tailor sets a standard of what we should expect.
Paolo has one of the most thorough fittings of anyone that has ever made me a suit.
@@kirbyallison we'll see if it is the best suit though. From watching this series there seem to be quite a few areas to work on each time, not just small adjustments. Of course this time we can't put it on Paolo.
@@teekue
It’s because we actually do the necessary work for every customer. A lot of people will just overlook changes that need to be corrected to the pattern because it’s a lot of work. Making clothing for somebody with extremely sloping shoulders is not easy when you don’t use thick shoulder pads like everybody in London does. As I said in the beginning of the video, try making a structured looking suit, but without all the extra guts that make the job a hell of a lot easier. We’re not doing things to make them easy. We’re doing things to make them one of a kind and different from everybody else.
@@paolomartoranobespoke I get what you are saying. And obviously you turn out some good results. From my own experience though, and I am not talking about Saville Row tailors since I haven't ever commissioned something in London, fittings where a lot of things have to be changed each time are not a good sign. I've had tailors nearly nail jackets on the first fitting without a previous pattern and also ones where the first fitting was terrible. Personally I can only say that the former worked out better in every case. Thanks for taking the time to explain your approach though! It is very much appreciated.
Had my second ever suit made. From your videos it made me so much more knowledgeable in getting my second suit made. So much better than my first one.
I am a lowly fitter with the once adequate Jos. A. Bank. (how the mighty have fallen). I find these videos extremely useful for my job. I am so riddled with clients that have no idea how things should fit or look or anything. They literally know nothing. I have worn suits everyday for ten years. I went through the skinny phase of my teens-mid 20s, now as a more mature man at 30, I really appreciate cut around the body than shape *to* the body. My suits these days actually fit and are comfortable (I wear our made-to-measure half-canvas suits).
I try to apply these principles to my clients, where I often have to say no, you can't do that. No, it is impossible. It is not easy. But I have the language and ability to learn from watching masters.
Ok this suit is definitely one of the most well cut and and sharp Kirby acquired. This suit is perfection !
Great looking suit, it truly is a lovely fabric. And, I must say you look fantastic, Kirby.
I really like that weight and clean drape much more than some of Kirby's (still properly-fitting,) closer suit ensembles. Looks great - love your production!
Paolo is great! I followed him and his firm’s account on Instagram before he was featured here. Great video, Kirby!
I might have to visit Paolo in the NYC area one of these days!
I used to buy cheap suits and realized I was spending way more than if I just bought 2-3 good quality custom suits. Hopefully soon I can make the leap to bespoke.
Paolo looks like him has some great cloth choices. Love his jacket.
It does prompt the question that all the other bespoke suits by all the other tailors will now not fit correctly !
The danger of changing weight dramatically… or buying expensive suits that may not fit in the future.
Good health is however the most important thing
Losing weight is not that bad. Most tailors will also adjust your suits for free. Gaining a lot of weight is problematic though. At some point you will run out of seam allowance.
@@teekuetoo much weight lost is a problem because you cannot make an armhole smaller without shortening the coat. You cannot narrow the shoulder without having to lengthen sleeves (with holes cut). Recently with weight loss drugs we are seeing customers figurations change including their posture and even going to bow legged to knock kneed.
@@paolomartoranobespoke Do you find a similar set of issues with clients who put on weight due to muscle gain from beginning weight training programs?
@@paolomartoranobespoke oh, but we're talking about a lot of weight lost then, right? Like 50+ pounds
@@teekue in the neighborhood of 20lbs is the cutoff up or down in weight. That’s roughly 2 sizes difference.
Just a beautiful suit.
As a European yes bespoke is the best many of the top fashion houses such as my favourite Zenga offer good services
Kirby lost so much weight I thought he was sick. I was quite concerned.
Luckily all good. Just hitting a hard reset at 40 that hit a little too hard… 😅
As fascinating and luxurious as bespoke suiting must be it seems to me, apart from the high cost, overly time consuming and with too precise a fitting a quick way to having a bad fit as you lose or gain weight!? Who really has the time unless one is a member of the idle wealthy or is part of the sartorial milieu?!
Did the Henry Poole / Huntsman ( I forget ?? ) New York workshop suit ever get made...??
Huntsman? No…
@@kirbyallisonwhat happened? Have been waiting for that one. The Paolo series is great, best of luck with your health!
Kirby, I would put that suit on hold until your weight stabilises, unless you are getting it free as a promotion. It looks like the proportions are made for a 20 lbs heavier frame all round, and not sure a waist tuck is all that is needed. Kudos to Paolo though, as he is competing with some of the finest tailors in the world, but i would press the hold button and take up the project sometime down the road...
We’re working through it!
*If these two guys were in a Mafia movie, Paolo would be the boss and Kirby would be the protagonist lol.*
Hey now.
Lol
What cloth is that?
Don’t worry Kirby You look stunning as always. Take care my friend!
You look better thinner, Kirby! Nonetheless, my sympathies to your tailor!
This was familiar to me - I lost 25 pounds and much of my wardrobe was unfixable - some things just couldn't be brought in enough without impacting proportions. Oh well, it was a great excuse to buy a bunch of new clothes. :)
Al Capone of all other Tailors.....Pure Perfectionist Suit Fetishist
Perfectionist because it's my job...Not sure about the other things.
Kirby, will we be getting one more video of the delivery of this suit?
I’m admittedly prejudiced against American tailoring houses, but Paolo seems legit!
Is that a sovereign grade tie that Kirby is wearing?
hearing two Americans make jokes about north/south UK is wild and I love it
I have to go on a two week diet after Christmas to get back into my suits.
Kirby, where did you get your "Wellington at Waterloo" portrait?
It’s a reproduction.
I intend to one day gift my dad with something created for him by Paolo.
Amazing! He has a MTM service that’s quite exceptional as well!
Kirby, are you well? You lost a lot of weight and you look low on energy, not your usual self.
What do y’all believe is the right number of suits and blazers in your wardrobe?
All depends on your daily wear. I’m suit&tie 5-6 days/wk. For me, I find 10 suits and 5 blazers and sports coats works.
As many as you have +1, repeat.
@@daniell2217 thank D.
@@teekue rightttttt exactly
A minimum of 1 suit (charcoal or navy) and 1 sportcoat for casual wear imo
The title 😂😂😂. Poor Paolo
Make some saville row huntsman and anderson and shephard bespoke suits
Am I the only one who thought Kirby was thin in previous videos?
It has been a while since they did the last fitting.
We filmed this in April I think…
What prompted the diet regime Kirby? Looking well.
He mentioned it in the video
Tbh I thought the opposite. He looks a bit sunken.
In addition to the weight loss, I did become quite sick in March while traveling with the family. That probably cut another 5lbs easily off my weight, which took me past my target weight. Unfortunately, Paolo caught me for my prior fitting at a high water mark and this one at a low water mark.
@@kirbyallison sorry to hear that Kirby. Personally I think the suit that you had made in London about a year ago was your best fit, where they squared off your shoulders with the jacket..that one pinged.
I understand the comfort from trousers which are use high, but they do look utterly ridiculous.
there should be a video that shows a handmade budget suit. something accessible for the viewers that cannot dish 7-13k on a suit.
Take a look at our Divij Bespoke videos. He’s $1,500 - $2,500. Great value and he covers a lot of US Cities. Different product. But exceptional.
And Paolo has a MTM service that is exceptional as well. $3,500 to $4,500. Same guy. Same attention to detail with fit. Just not full bespoke.
@@kirbyallison My question is, where can I get the best suit MTO or Bespoke or off the rack for my bang for my buck?
10 lbs maybe but 25? No way.
Jealous much?
@@AMZNFBA grow up.
Kirdy leave the waist as is looks better you’ll feel far more comfortable I would leave it alone. Stay healthy
We know - you know?
It’s been so long since the last video. How did you feel about the wait?
Did Niles Crane have a son?
I'm sure your loss of weight is just a trick to have your suits made all over again 😂
Trust me it’s not… a wardrobe like this takes a decade to build. Crazy fluctuations in weight - up or down - is bad.
Well loosing weight is the best part because you can look now better in suits than ever...!
So, does it mean, you can make more new suits also from england? 😂😂😂
I definitely gained too much weight last year and had to do something. Not just for my vanity, but my health.
If you put weight on again Kirby the suits not going to fit especially bespoke.
Pink braces let the whole look down in my opinion, shame!
gg
Hilarious
Kirby, are you not well? That's quite a bit of weight you've dropped.
All good now. But, yes, dropped a little too much too quickly.
Did kirby go vegan? what happened. Meat will keep you looking healthy
Can't be slim while eating meat? Can't be overweight when not? You know that makes it sound pretty bad.
Kirby, you alright? Your voice sounds not good dude.
All good! Sorted some things out from last year and it caused me to drop a bunch of weight. That and I got really ill mid-March, which made the problem worse. But getting back to normal! Thanks for asking!