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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ม.ค. 2024
- My second attempt at building a vacuum-powered boat, if only it was easier the second time....
Thanks to PCBWAY for sponsoring this video and providing the resin printed planetary gear set. Be sure to check them out for your next project at www.pcbway.com/ - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
The whole bevel gear situation is the exact reason why differential housings on cars are so incredibly beefy.
except when they break. lol
Noted, add extra beef to bevel gear housing
@@kurzey8532have a bevel gear housing is probably the first step. Translation of rotating forces is probably the single most annoying problem in gearbox design. make a full housing that attaches to the planetary gear train directly. One solid block. No bridges nothing. Working in PLA you're already kinda at the materials limit.
True
@kurzey8532 tbh 3d printed materials are weak af.... you need to beef anything that gets loaded.
I built a 3d printed cnc, shit took 5 generations to get to a level that's kinda close to ender 3 accuracy 😂 everything Is like thick PETG and everything is like a kelio of plastic 😂
That is a beautiful looking hull. Maybe double it's length so the gearbox can sit down behind the syringes or in front. Either way, so they are down below the water line. Adding an extra section or two into the middle of the hull to stretch it will also increase your buoyancy, maybe enough to allow you to add some lead in the keel to ensure stability by dropping the centre of gravity even further.
Better make a catamaran and suspend the mechanism inbetween the hulls.
Maybe set the gearbox under the syringes if he wants to keep the short length; I'm sure the gearbox is heavier than the syringe assembly. It would also allow a direct drive, eliminating the bevel transmission all together.
Great idea, more buoyancy and solve the issue of high centre of mass. Only issue is additional weight, she's a heavy ol girl already
I think the only issue of extra weight would be acceleration, it would take longer to get moving. The extra buoyancy might even cancel that out as it won't be sitting as low in the water which means it has less water to push out of the way. This is all just observation, I cannot speak from a position of experience in boat hull design@@kurzey8532
@@kurzey8532 To add to this - if you do end up starting from scratch with the hull, try planning the contents then find an existing hull profile to match the dimensions such that the mechanism sits nicely below the gunwales. Plans/models are available with a little Googling. Unless you're trying to innovate with hull design, it saves a lot of headaches to stick to known quantities and make adjustments where required 😅
this is a brilliant video man, it fully captures the hells of an inventor, fail after fail after fail and redesign after redesign after redesign,
i really appreciate the footage of the design, it really shows a few hundred hours worth of work
And like a lot of unknown unsuccessful inventor, it all start with a non-viable idea.
Here, this is an exception, the useless toy idea is here to make YT views, not to be sold. Well... I hope so!
Amazing video! I must say it's a welcome change of pace to see a project that just feels so real. No fancy cuts in the timeline, no impeccable 3D prints on the first try, and a lot of silly editing thrown in to boot. It almost feels like I could try this for myself! Excellent job.
I wish your channel could explode in popularity like tom stanton, integza, rc channels. Keep it up
Also, i think most of your struggles with assembling the boat is that it has so many moving and not moving parts.
Its cliché but simplicity is a engineering principle.
Should always KISS.....Keep It Simple Stupid
Legit sounds like Tom stanton... like as if they went to the same schools growing up with each other with whatever part of England they're from.
@@heftycat Also RC Flite test =)
Don't be disheartened - you do a good job of keeping your viewers engaged by describing each problem with admirable concision coupled with commendable thoroughness ( no easy feat) and then describing the solution. Then you get cross because something else stops working, and all the while you're imperceptibly inching towards ironing out all the problems.
Then again, it's sensible to know when to devote your time and yellow filament to something else.
Very pretty hull, though...
This was SO painful to watch. Can't wait for the next one! Subscribed.
I enjoyed the video. Failures and all. This was a much more realistic experience and showed amazing perseverance. Almost makes me wanna work on the huge 3d printed project I’ve been 90% done with for a year, almost.
Do it!
It really does look promising. I would guess metal shafts would reduce a good bit of the flex.
As for the balance, what about having the syringes on the top and the heavier drivetrain inside the hull. Added bonus is that it would be closer the prop shaft and maybe simplify that design as well.
This is the content of many contences! Example: to be so in to the details, that cannot see the big issue (balance) that is very teaching content ,thank you!
Find some broken printers. They have really nice lengths of tool steel shafting in them, and you can usually find broken printers for free. Plastic shafts are just not going to cut it, especially on a design relying on such high torque. Also try to mount your radio battery as low in the hull as you can, and look at the keels on sailboats to help keep her from listing to port and ship shape. Great stuff, don't give up!
This video has deserves way more views and likes. Maximum effort!!!
I mean, just watching this, you are building your gear mounts as this massive patchwork. All the different parts and pieces, some attached to the hill, some attached to this mount and some attached to the gearbox, theres so much slop that its no wonder everything moves. Pick something, and ase all the mounts off it, I suggest the gearbox. Maybe print the last gear cover to include a mount for the bevel gears. Also, lubricate your gears. You will e astonished how much friction is generated from 3d printed planetary gears (I built a battlebot that runs off resin printed gears and at 10k RPM they would physically melt through the PLA carriers/supports without lube. Lubricated, no degridation at all. If the gears move smoothly it could reduce the forces put on the shafts you keep bending and breaking.
Flip entire thing around so you don't need a belt and to get a better center of gravity. Make the hull wider and try the crown gears, like the ones used in cheap plastic RC cars
@@CenReaperYT.Good idea and helical crown and pinion just like car differentials use would be reduce cogging and spread/smooth the forces.
brilliant video, thanks for showing us the whole process-most youtubers wouldn't show the process involved in their inventions but trial and error is part of every science experiment. keep on trying, when it finally works out the joy you'll experience is indescribable..
PS: maybe try mounting the heavy gears as low as possible- hopefully in the line of transmission so that you can do away with the gears at the end and mount the cylinders high up. it will help ith your CG too
My idea would be to change the orientation of the syringes to get rid of the bevel gears.
It's nice to see the challenges of such a project and not just a finished result like in many videos from other folks.
Stand the cylinders up as they (assumably) weigh less than the transmission and this will also correct the angle thereby eliminating the bevel gears
lowering the centre of gravity will likely help with the stability, the syringes are likely lighter than the motor parts, placing them on top in a light mount could be the solution.
I also might just slice the boat in half and add another long middle section. This will help with buoyancy and the likely larger weight you will have to add.
By putting the gearbox lower, and possibly extending the length, you also could have an inline shaft. Most boats, and especially the ones I have worked on with inboards such as yours, have a direct connection from motor to transmission to prop shaft. I think you could eliminate parts and points of friction and failure. Possibly getting rid of the bevel gears and the belt altogether.
It appears that the bevel gears are there because of the need to have the pistons at certain angles. Because the syringes are light you could orient them vertically or use pulleys rather than gears to get the string to pull the transmission input shaft at the correct angle. I envision two pulleys, one on either side of the transmission. Again the extended length would make this easier.
The one downside to orienting anything vertically is that it will act as a sail, so watch out for that!
This is the first video of yours I've seen and I can already say I'm proud of you. You persevered, learned from mistakes and eventually realised it's time to move on.
Great to see a new video from you. Was right with you all the way through with those frustrations.
Great animations of the gears and things by the way. Very clear.
I hope you continue to pursue this project. One thing I would certainly suggest is moving the center of gravity to the lowest point possible. As for the gearing and other things, I will leave that to people much better suited to comment.
"Roughly six hyppos... or one of your mo-" 💀
I'd simplify a lot: planetary gears down in the hull directly connected to the propshaft, big spool on the input side, translate the 90 degrees to the syringes on top by leading the string over rollers to get them into position. That should work better for actual operation but leave "recharging" a PITA. Maybe design the front detachable for recharging or use a higher angle for the propshaft to planetary input line to keep easier access for recharging?
Also, trimaran hull for stability? Should be an easy addon for anything you decide to make.
You’re in it. This is what making/inventing looks like. Thank you for being real in it. I had one idea for the bevel gears: a right angle housing that holds both shafts in place. Since both gears are on the end of a rod, that rod has flexibility between where the teeth mesh and where the rods are being held. If the bevel gears are being held stationary at both ends of the rod there should be less rod flex?
Yes it definitely needs a more solid housing!
First thing first, *LARGER* hull.
Second, I think it's best to make a "syringe battery". You vacuum out the syringes while not on the boat and then put them into the boat after they're vacuumed.
Your contents are great! Keep them coming!
Loved the all vidéo. I really enjoy seing other people struggle but come up with New ideas on how to fix problems. Don't give up I want to see more
you can elimilte the bevel gear by jusing pullys to bendt the fishingline 90 degrees so you can mount the reels inline with the gaerbox.
COOL video.
3D printing is amazing. The things people are making is very impressive.
I like using white lithium grease that can be cheaply purchased from any automotive store. Simply spray it in and run it through a drill for a min or two so it sands itself smooth and viola, a low friction gear box. The spray also works on the 3d printer as a lubricant for its rails
Instead of immediately winding up the strings from the pistons and then trying to transmit the torque via bevel gears, make the strings go over a vertical pulley at the bottom onto horizontal winches in the same axis as the gearbox.
While you're at it, swap the heavy gearbox to the bottom and the literally empty pistons to the top
I made almost the same suggestion. It was a bit painful to see him using DIY gears system to go around corners when the gut does it for free.
The biggest problem I see is that the gear train is stressed in both directions.
A clutch right behind the syringes could help a lot.
Release clutch, charge syringes, engage clutch, run boat.
Also, the pulley and long propeller shaft are unnecessary. Make the planetary gearboxes the prop shaft, at a slight angle if needed. Put the syringes on top of that.
Deserves more attention! Very nice video
If you redesign the hull and mount the planetary gears at the bottom this will lower the center of gravity and allow you to drive the propeller directly from the output of the planetary gears. A shaft mounted in parallel above the planetary gears can be connected via a belt or gear set to the input side of the planetary gears. You could then mount the syringes vertically and wind their draw strings onto the shaft.
Only two gears cogs are necessary, no bevel gears. A turnkey can be added to the shaft, or the shaft could be wound using the gear cog on it (with your drill).
Yeah, air is light, and lack of air is lighter. Better store the light stuff up on each side leaving the middle bottom for the gears.
Same thought - the boat's powertrain design is upside down. Another benefit of putting the gearbox at the bottom of the boat is that you can build its bracing into the hull, adding structural rigidity.
My initial reasoning for putting it up higher was because I wanted a somewhat sleak boat hull and the planetary gears are fat so wouldnt be possible....but you're absolutely right it would be better off in the bottom to keep COM low
@@kurzey8532Have you considered going to a catamaran-type design with pontoons holding a platform for the gearbox and power? A multihull boat might give you the combination of a sleeker profile while having a large enough platform for your components.
@@kurzey8532 Yep, nobody likes a tippy boat 😜
Cool Project and Good work , small belts can be joined by cutting the ends 45degree and just basicly solder the plasic together you can add some needles trough the connection point
The fuel storage system doubles as a floatation device - so if you spring a leak off shore, you have the option of steaming for land and sinking faster, or staying put and floating for longer. Would make for some interesting tradeoffs!
that gearbox is a thing of beauty
No way this finally uploaded again! Nice video!
Use the planetary gear set or 2-3 from a dead cordless drill and just carve a boat from foam and fiberglass it. Quicker, stronger, more compact and lighter. No point making a planing type hull with high drag at low speed and less interior room and buoyancy.
I designed and built a pretty good windup boat for my son. It uses two chainsaw motor recoil springs and handles a lot of force. I use steal rods for all the shafts, of which there are three.
IIRC, the final gear ratio was 1:50.
It can go about 50 feet and turned out to be far too dangerous for my four year old son. The prop could take off a finger if it ran out of the water.
Wait, what ?? Only 7K subscribers ?? 😳😳 *UNDERRATED CHANNEL* !
BTW, maybe you should add a "cage" around the bevel gears. These stinky mofos are incredibly good at wrecking things because of the surprisingly big amounts of force/torque they produce. Also, the planetary gears should be layed at the bottom of the hull. In your configuration, they put too much weight on a high place and it ruins the balance of your ship (she wants to capsize). Also, if you like glass fiber and epoxy, you should make a hull in fibers 😅. I hope it helps you. Sorry my english is as good as the first reel of plastic you used at the beginning of the video 😂
for some cases a catamaran boat is the better base.
This video is nice with this air propulsion project. You have patience, I would have enjoyed everything ah ah
Its great to finally see some content where the creator is working with same equipment as myself........... I mean having 3d scanners, a rack of bambus, and 3 cnc mills is cool but I cant pull that off with my 3v2 and caliper! cheers!
Hey Kurzey I have plenty of ideas but my main one to counter the gear slipping is to have the part that holds the bearing surround the gearbox so that it's like it's just "tied" to the gearbox
Wind the vacuum chamber from the opposite side. The gear where you are trying to charge needs to withstand both frictional force and air pressure. The closer it is to the vacuum chamber, the easier it will be on gear. Print it with an inch ledge so it won't sink easily.
Cool Concept!
I think the use of a crown and lantern gear setup could reduce the propensity of the gears to cam apart. Alternatively, an idler pulley could be used to change the syringe capstan axis 90 degrees to be aligned with the gearbox.
the "hello i am under the water" really got me
anyway, great video, i liked the amount of detail you went to with explaining things, it wasnt too basic so that it would be boring but it wasnt too much that you wouldnt understand whats going on either. Personally im a pro at giving up on projects and i think this one might just not be worth continuing, i think the forces are too high for 3d printing(not too high as in impossible to do but more like too high to be worth bothering with) and the high amount of friction might mean it'll be very underwhelming once it does work. However i do admire your commitment.
So once again, great video and im excited for the next one.
The unde water meme tickled me for a good minute - also thought the video was pretty top notch for a small subscriber count creator - definitely deserves more attention
For some advice, I would lubricate the gears, place the main planetary set down low, brace it using the syringes & supportive structures below, in-between, and above so that way you can wind up the syringes (vacuum them up giggity) separate to help with ease of use but also have the gearing directly placed onto the shaft. But you can also use a gear there, like before, to more center it and support it with a ring structure.
Of course, you've got to use a whole bunch of holes and triangles b/c stronk. Basically because you can support it with the body of the gearing and syringes together with a bunch of structure in-between you can have the majority of stress get spread out, but! crucially, you can also use that larger ring gear as support for the gear from the gearing, to the prop shaft gear connection. This makes it more likely to be unable to move in a direction, z, x, y, etc, you wouldn't want it to.
I should specify that you should leave everything horizontal to allow for the nozzles to stick into the ring gear housing or into the front of the boat to allow for it to become structural, sheet you slide them into holders & tighten them down. The hull only needs a longer keel, or whatever it's called, to allow more stability. If you wanted you could add a hydrofoil to help it out for range and speed.
But that's requires you to have a steeper angle for the prop, which means the hydrofoil will need to have the axle in it with a nice ring gear support that allowed for your to also move the hydrofoil and rudder system in a design like that. More redesign.
I would say just sticking to having it properly balanced with a keel, sitting those gears lower, giving them some lube, direct drive to props, use a little latching system to the vacuum to make it both easier to take out and precharge & slow down/stop the syringe would be really good to do.
One thing you should do is for the charging mechanism. Built the gear and shaft into the boat so that all you have to do is attach the drill, that way you can use the drill itself as a locking mechanism until you design something you can lock the gears with for the between unlatching the drill to launching in water.
Hilarious video, love it!
you feel like saveitforparts but making boats and i love it
Great video! Here's an idea for improvement: maximizing the diameter of the bevel gears could be beneficial. Increasing the lever arm reduces the forces involved while maintaining constant torque transfer. Alternatively, eliminating the 90° turn in the gears and having the fishing wire navigate that turn could be a superior solution. By mirroring the gears transferring torque to the gearbox on both sides of the shaft, forces could be balanced, simplifying your input to just torque.
Regarding the hull design, it looks impressive, but you chose a planing hull designed for high-speed gliding. A displacement hull might be more suitable. You could achieve this by reducing the rounded corners to stabilize the boat, utilizing the counteracting momentum generated when the boat leans to one side. Alternatively, a V-shaped hull could be beneficial, allowing for the placement of heavy items like batteries deep underwater, akin to a keel. The beneficial sideeffect is that displacement hulls are also more efficient for your application.
Can't wait to for the next version, it is great to watch your iterative improvement process!
I would use the modularity of your hull to extend it for another section. Maybe flip the gearbox 180 degrees and shorten the prop shaft and drive it directly. Putting the heavy gearbox low in the hull. In a longer design you could spool both syringes from the same rod.
I'm relieved that it's not just me that goes absolutely insane troubleshooting a design. "Iterative design", they call it. Always use flux when soldering, it makes all the difference, and soldering large pieces of brass like that requires a thick chisel tip.
(3:13) I tried printing stacked planetary gears before. You have to make sure that it's not the sun gear attached to the next sun gear. Instead, you have to attach the 1st sun gear to the planet carrier or the ring gear of the 2nd gear system. Otherwise you're just going to run a bunch of planetary gears in parallel, not in series. If you want gear ratio multiplication, you need them to run in series so that they feed into each other. Running the stages in parallel means that only one of the stage does actual work while the other two just spin and add friction to the system.
I recently put together a kit of a rubberband powered model and I learned a very valuable lesson that everything must be extremely precisely aligned, be very strong, well lubricated and everything should be tested as it's put together.
My first thought is to put both syringe strings on the same shaft but make them oppose each other so the sideways load cancels out. Alternatively, since the syringe travel is very limited, maybe it can work as a rack and pinion? Also of course opposing as the pinion would probably want to leave the rack.
To avoid 90 degree turns, the syringe output can be horizontal, going into vertical gears and the propulsion being a paddle boat. The gears could be sandwiched between plywood to keep them rigid relative to eachother
Also I just remembered about worm gears which let you step down rpm a lot and turn the rotation axis
why not put the pistons in line with the openings opposing each other at just enough distance to have a spool in between. that would give a lengthy overall boat design...
Personally, I would put the planetary gears as low as possible in the hull and have the syringes higher up, they are lighter after all. I would probably make the frame that holds all the gears out of metal as PLA isn't very strong. You must also try to optimize the design in CAD to make sure that you minimize flex and parts moving.
Also, in order for a boat to be stable the center of gravity must be the below the center of rotation, you can either add ballast low down or change the geometry of the hull.
yooo welcome back, watched your videos at least 10 times now haha
Love it, glad you like the videos!
I admire your perseverance 😎, I think I'd have given up sooner 😂
I did quit several times to be fair 🤣
This was much more insteresting video than a typical one, where someone just puts DIY parts together and somehow it just works the "first" time.
You could try making a sturdy angle bracked that has the bearing for both bevel gear shafts. This would prevent them moving relative to each other.
I enjoyed this a lot
Have you looked at early compressed air motors for torpedos? Also consider testing filaments for the best torque loads. Just a thought. Projects like yours keeps me shy of 3d printing. I am just a self trained machinist/ watch maker, though with 60 years of practice.
Well, nice project still!
I'd look into a metal (aluminium strip for example) brace to couple the geartrain to the 90-degrees bearing and use some screwrods instead of 3D-printed rods for the shafts.
Other things, make use of a .2mm nozzle instead of the .4mm so you can get finer details and maybe use other materials like PETG or Nylon which your printer both can handle well too.
For the stability: get some weight or maybe just put a led kiel below it when you want to go 'full water'. With a 'heavy' (for the size) camera on top, well, even more chances for tumbling over.
But, really like your ideas.
It was an interesting journey to follow, if a painful one.
Aside from the already mentioned bevel gear housing, maybe it's worth it to use a flexible shaft coupling instead.
Although that would definitely take away from the design challenge that is making the bevel gears work under the high torque load.
Unless you don't mind scrapping your current hull you could make some floaters off to the side to keep it from tipping over, like the "blades"(?) on a catamaran.
Depending on their buoyancy (force) and distance from the hull (lever) they can "fix" a high centre of mass at the cost of more drag.
What if instead of parallel to the hull, you mounted the tubes/pistons vertically (think smokestacks on an old steamship) and used a rack and pinion system to directly convert the linear motion into circular motion? this would allow you to easily achieve a desired gear ratio and eliminate the need for bevel-gears as all forces would be in line. Moreover, either using a paddlewheel or a system like a Thai "long--tail boat" could eliminate the need to seal the prop shaft.
Keep up the great work!
So I have a recommendation for some of the quality improvements. Have the torque be more evenly distributed. So basically Have 2 shafts, one for each vacuum tube. Keep them as one connected part and this'll maybe somewhat stabilize the movement, at least from side to side, and evenly distribute the torque being generated
You could mount the syringes vertically like stacks and line up all the power transmission along the bottom of the hull. This would put the empty parts high and the driveline low.
yooo cool, like your workflow, reiterating thourgh design done in chaotic impulsive fuck everything and hope it will work as good as it looks in cad adhd manner is a little hobby of mine. I have used ender 3 for many years, recently got bambu not saying bambu is only option but seeing your struggle with ender consider upgrading it, its amazing how it makes work on projects easier
love your videos
There's a big difference between designing parts, and designing parts for 3D printing. Your design skills are evident and just need a little tweaking. Print orientation and choosing the correct materials is the next hurdle along with tuning your printer to avoid blobs and stringing for dimensional accuracy. For gears I like PCTG, PC-ABS, or even CoPA if you/your printer is up to it. Keep it up. You'll be rewarded with a nice looking properly functional model.
Something to consider, think of a rubber band airplane prop, you have a very finite amount of stored power, so you need a larger prop creates massive thrust for the size, and going to spin slowly, prolong the finite power you have there.
He is converting the high torque to couple the smaller prop to the water with a gearbox. Selecting a larger prop would allow reduction of the gear ratio but eventually is too big for the hull.
If you add a gear on top and the other side of you bevel gear, similar to a car diff. it may help help keep the gear in place.
Cool project. I hope you will build a new version.
Hilarious video. Patience of Job. I’d have smashed the thing long since
You need to put the heavy transmission in the bottom and the lightweight syringes on top.
Add a one way clutch or some sort of brake for when you wind it.
Instead of using a gear on a drill to wind it, build some sort of hex coupling into the drivetrain.
Instead of using bevel gears just wind the strings directly onto the main shaft. Use guides to redirect the strings.
Design your main drivetrain first and then design the hull around it.
Nice video bro and I hope it will work in the next video 👍
Be careful when you let go of the "piston" part if you pull it out all the way. The piston can smash through the end of the syringe, maybe not the first time, but eventually... Ask me how I know 😂 great model mate too! 👍👍
Great video........
Welcome back!
Keep a pool of oil in the gearbox to reduce the friction and use steel shaft.
Your red PETG probably got wet causing quasi-clogs in the nozzle. The yellow PETG blobbing and stringing also from moisture. Sometimes PETG can come wet and it will never work well until you dry it with heat and desiccant.
PETG is also far more sensitive to repeated retraction as most types are a bit malleable, especially as it absorbs water. I think this also partially attributable to the failures you were seeing.
If possible I would look into ASA. It's more forgiving than PETG IME but requires an all metal hot end and enclosure.
I am gonna call that mess... a "train of wheels" because watches are rad.
Have you considered using silicone lubricant in the syringe? Petroleum based lube might deteriorate the rubber and plastics.
I don't know if lubricating the gear train will be better or worse. Either a very lightweight silicone or maybe a graphite powder lubricant wouldn't gum it up.
Heavy gauge fishing line is not very flexible, so can use up some of the available energy. You can try using a thinner line or appropriately sized string, twine or ribbon.
For such a low RPM, consider using a much larger propeller.
When I make 3d printed planetary gearbox I use thecatalystis planetary gearbox simulator to first check how many teeth on the gears to use. Then removing 1 teeth off of the planet gear and placing it exactly between the sun gear and ring gear. It works all the time on first try.
Use normal straight cut gears. Helical gears isnt worth it and make the same noise.
Id try PTFE for the gears and make every thing more reinforced more material is more strength run your gear shafts though a baring so the hold there position that support will help stop the material fatiguing through bending.
1. Larger hull with a balast keel you can switch out easily (for triming and stability) with 2 bolts. Like a Sailboat.
2. Make the hull from fibre glass
3. Aluminium brackets that hold stuff together, because the 3D printed stuff obviously is not up for it + steel shafts that transfer the torque
But cool project, despite failure so far.
I think the main problem is that the forces you're dealing with are way too high. Maybe using a separate reduction stage per syringe would help, but that's gonna be bulky.. Good luck and don't give up!
Did you calculate the forces the gears are experiencing?
I think you'll find it's a lot more than you thought.
Also, a ball-governor may be needed to keep a constant rpm on the prop in the end...
You calculated over 12 kg to pull just one of the plungers back. That means you're pulling back two plungers with 24 kg. That's a lot of torque on the small gears and those small brackets you're using to keep them in place. Send piece of mild steel with some holes in it would probably be better. You should also consider steel shafts for all the torque transfer.
The water will self govern if it does not cavitate, the prop size could be increased a bit to slow the shaft RPM.
I find it interesting that you had trouble with that red PETG. I’m currently banging my head against the wall about a roll of black PETG that clogs the MicroSwiss on my Ender INSTANTLY. I’m gonna try another color/manufacturer.
Also, silicone grease in planetary gearboxes works wonders.
I tried drying it like 3-4 times, changed bowden tube, nozzle, even ended up buying a direct drive extruder 🤣 just gave up with it in the end
perseverance and indefatigably!! My admiration is boundless, true stick-ability!!! By the way, your bevel gears need to be in the one shell, that way they cannot skip teeth! :)
I remember installing a chainsaw/weedeater engine in a 6' fiberglass over wood hull.
Lots of lessons learned.
1 When you launch everyone gets off the water as fast as possible because you're prop could easily cut everyone else's boat in half. 😂
2 the best muffler is the silicone tube stolen from a coffee pot. ALL SOLID MOUNT PIPES WILL FAIL.
3 A 1/8" FIBERGLASS over 1/8" plywood will easily survive full throttle impact with a tree 30' on shore.
4 Regular hardware silicon makes excellent attachments for engine to hull because it absorbs some vibration.
Bolts NO Screws NO. They just vibrate holes in the hull. 😢
Do not give up.
Have you checked If there are any bevel gearboxes for rc available to buy ready? sometimes it's better to buy a problematic part because it already has been engineerd before to the point where it works.
Another idea would be to use universal joints instead of gears, maybe several in a row to get around the tight angle better but in this case I'd really recommend to buy them of the shelf.
Holy crap, the first video of someone making stuff, trying to be entertaining and actually doing it ! Well the making part didn't but I did actually laugh in a few places. Good stuff, keep the videos coming. I am in the middle of severly culling the number of channels I subscribe to but for you I have added one.
Glad you enjoyed the video!
You might try putting the syringes above the gear, since it's lighter, and the gear lower and maybe get that hull to float.
Yes this would have been smarter
good memes mate, keep it up
the keel needs more weight to counter balance everything else, you could also consider using one-way (or check) valves the draw the syringes into position rather than using a drill.
Great job! I think your only problem is that Makita drill. Swap it out for a DeWalt, and you will be good to go. And the color will match. Lol
What unfolds in your example is a familiar tale in DIY projects heavily reliant on prototyping. In the realm of engineering, the process typically commences with meticulous calculations, later validated by a prototype. In this context, an astute engineer would have promptly discerned on paper that no plastic component could endure the torque necessitated by the syringe pressure-especially not with your chosen design. Optimal materials for the axes, transmission, and supports would, at the very least, include aluminium. Yet, the crux of the issue lies in the realm of technical choices. The remedy is straightforward: initiate each project by sketching ideas on paper, subject them to scrutiny against specifications and a comprehensive list of considerations (centre of gravity, weight versus Archimedes' thrust, torque, etc.), and brace yourself for the inevitable deluge of calculations. Some projects meet their end at this juncture, while others spotlight the shortcomings of a particular component, leading to a radical departure from the initial concept. One can endlessly tinker while adhering to flawed principles, a pitfall I don't wish to sound too critical about, but it appears to be precisely what transpired in your case.
In terms of creating a vacuum, the simplest approach involves a rigid reservoir, possibly spherical, with a one-way valve, and an external vacuum pump that needn't be on the boat all the time. This approach champions simplicity, sidestepping the overburdening of the hull with elements as ineffective as they are superfluous. Additionally, the transmission system, the heaviest component, is strategically positioned away from the bottom of the hull, where the lightest components-like the syringes-reside. Questionable choice IMHO. A meticulous hull calculation, taking into account mass limits and distribution, is an arduous task. As a preventive measure against capsizing, integrating floats isn't a bad idea. Your choice of a motorboat hull type designed for speed, usually coming with a heavy backside and a low centre of gravity, seems mismatched to your design's weight and balance ratio. Perhaps, a shape akin to a container carrier would better suit your objectives, since significant speed may be unattainable. Remember, a propeller is engineered for specific speeds; don't pair a propeller designed for 5000 RPM with a system barely reaching 200 RPM. At such low RPM, a propeller might not even be the optimal choice; a fishtail oscillating system may be more suitable because of low energy and low speed. However, the onus is on you to discern the best choices.
I strongly advise starting afresh, building from the ground up. Begin with impeccable technical choices for vacuum propulsion, select appropriate components, and only in the final stages, explore the best approach to keep it afloat. Shape, friction, and performance likely won't pose significant challenges with a small reservoir and autonomy.
This guy is a pompous Jack ass. Want to know the weight before it sinks? Water, grams of ml of H2O. Balance? Finger test. All these words that mean they think you never thought about your design at all on the computer or your head or anything, stupid. Of course you did, they just want to sound smart.
Round vacuum tank? Forgot work energy requires movement, from the syringe rods, stupid. Even with a diaphragm he forgot whatever fluid in it, is halved. Making it functionally not worth it.
The gears lower down can help get the speed up because of the weight shift during acceleration, so the hull is fine. My keel idea just helps with rudder saying but isn't really needed. Better supportive structure with pulleys for the wire will help you, but nothing wrong with adding some metal in the right places, it's cheap these days too!
F this guy, love the video keep up the great work, you are almost there 😊
You're already using a basic pulley system by using the fishing line and the axle as the spool for the line so why not eliminate the entire bevel gear set and replace it with a 90 degree pulley making the drive shaft of the planetary gear the the spool of the fishing line.
Also try using a braided fishing line as nylon has high plastic deformation before failure.
For the stability of the boat make the keel of the boat heavier so it will lower the center gravity of the boat and make it more stable. Lead is a good material as it is more dense compared to other metals and will require less space.
a tri-maran?
i feel like the syringes could go to left and right, ending up in a swimming foot. then the slow end axle of the gearbox is the winding spool - and the gearbox points downwards in some 20-30° angle to the rear of the setup with a third swimming foot, the ships screw and the rudder.... sound much easier and just with some spacer bars well in shape without any force despite the very front central spool.
@@alexanderstohr4198 @alexanderstohr4198 No. Not a trimaran. I did not mention any description that would suggest a trimaran or any other design of any boat.
Just the same boat with heavier keel for stabilization. The syringes would not deflect as the pulling force will be inline to the direction of the syringe actuation.
Planetary gear boxes are very hard to back drive and putting all your torque on a bevel gear is going to make it harder. Planetary gearboxes are great for increasing torque but without very tight tolerances, strong materials, and good lubrication you will struggle to backdrive them.
Use 4 bevel gears in a square frame to help distribute the force (like how a cars differential spider gears are setup)