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Нужно использовать червячную передачу от редуктора к шестерням

Great ideas and good luck 👍

make a generator with it

Why use an extra piston, you are doubling the piston ring sealing surface and area! the "opposed" thing is ok, I guess, but if you hooked the cylinder to a crankshaft it would eliminate the second piston.

15:05 😂😂😂😂😂

I haven't watched all the way thru yet, but what difference in connecting rod length did you try and what results?

For the parts that keep breaking, I'd highly recommend against silk filament and to use petg

You should use braided fishing line instead of monofilament

What's in the next video if it ever comes out?

Can't you make it the other way round with air entering at the two endsxof a cylinder with a free floating piston in the middle?

The tank

His language should be rated, only losers need to use vulgar words to describe anything

Hi Kurzey, question here, I am also making a compressed air opposed piston engine here, but with a valve similar to those used on a 4 stroke engine, I know it brave as I could find very few compressed air engines with valves which aren't ball bearings, but i notice you have printed your cylinder as one piece with the valve assembly, how did you get the support out, and if you didnt use support, which orientation did you print it? And lastly, what is the clerence of the pistons in your cylinder and did you sand them at all? thx so much in advance

Even your revised model shows a shitty cam profile. The air valve in this case needs to be cracking open the second it hits TDC. This isn't an internal combustion engine that needs a lead time to burn fuel and develop pressure so there's no sense in opening the valve prior to TDC as this will only fight the rotation of the crank. The air valve should also be CLOSED by the time the exhaust ports are opening. which in your model it closes AFTER.. This will have DRASTIC impact on run time and efficiency, as the "Blowdown" cycle never happens which means your crank is fighting residual pressure coming from BDC x2. If you REALLY want to make power, you need another valve for exhaust and eliminate the cylinder ports. As the pistons are headed toward TDC, the air valve is closed and so are the exhaust ports. There's literally NOWHERE for the trapped air to go. This SLOWS DOWN the crank and wastes significant amounts of power.. With a dedicated exhaust valve in the same port as the intake, you can 100% control air flow in the engine and eliminate any pressure buildup prior to the next intake/power cycle which will extract the most amount of power possible. I'd imagine a spring loaded ball bearing of 8mm would be ideal. (You really can't go too big here) You also REALLY need to get yourself a REAL air compressor if you plan on making "Air engines"..

Occam's razor my friend, use it.

you feel like saveitforparts but making boats and i love it

Great video! Here's an idea for improvement: maximizing the diameter of the bevel gears could be beneficial. Increasing the lever arm reduces the forces involved while maintaining constant torque transfer. Alternatively, eliminating the 90° turn in the gears and having the fishing wire navigate that turn could be a superior solution. By mirroring the gears transferring torque to the gearbox on both sides of the shaft, forces could be balanced, simplifying your input to just torque. Regarding the hull design, it looks impressive, but you chose a planing hull designed for high-speed gliding. A displacement hull might be more suitable. You could achieve this by reducing the rounded corners to stabilize the boat, utilizing the counteracting momentum generated when the boat leans to one side. Alternatively, a V-shaped hull could be beneficial, allowing for the placement of heavy items like batteries deep underwater, akin to a keel. The beneficial sideeffect is that displacement hulls are also more efficient for your application. Can't wait to for the next version, it is great to watch your iterative improvement process!

Use 4 bevel gears in a square frame to help distribute the force (like how a cars differential spider gears are setup)

Welcome back!

(3:13) I tried printing stacked planetary gears before. You have to make sure that it's not the sun gear attached to the next sun gear. Instead, you have to attach the 1st sun gear to the planet carrier or the ring gear of the 2nd gear system. Otherwise you're just going to run a bunch of planetary gears in parallel, not in series. If you want gear ratio multiplication, you need them to run in series so that they feed into each other. Running the stages in parallel means that only one of the stage does actual work while the other two just spin and add friction to the system.

i lost a lot of my time to look at your video and i am disappointed

Pity about the shouty bits :D

....Or you could accept that the surface finish expectations of most of the community are unrealistic (what do you expect from armchair engineers....) and develop a finishing step for your gear teeth faces and air cylinder gasket interfaces? Also, my dude.....you gotta watch some engineering videos on the motion of forces through gear arrangements and bearings.....Like....cmon man.....they dont magically push sideways on the teeth......gotta take into account all possible motion and force vectors, not just the vectors you want ;)

Your editing and sense of humour have won me over

I remember installing a chainsaw/weedeater engine in a 6' fiberglass over wood hull. Lots of lessons learned. 1 When you launch everyone gets off the water as fast as possible because you're prop could easily cut everyone else's boat in half. 😂 2 the best muffler is the silicone tube stolen from a coffee pot. ALL SOLID MOUNT PIPES WILL FAIL. 3 A 1/8" FIBERGLASS over 1/8" plywood will easily survive full throttle impact with a tree 30' on shore. 4 Regular hardware silicon makes excellent attachments for engine to hull because it absorbs some vibration. Bolts NO Screws NO. They just vibrate holes in the hull. 😢 Do not give up.

Boat with a gearbox???? Why not just a different prop like most boats?

Maby instead of the fishing line going straight out to this part 5:24, you could put a horizontal (metal) pipe, with some sort of rolling part on. So that you can make the 90° upward turn with the fishing, instead of the bevel gear. 😊

guess why differential gear setups use solid gear boxes ? maybe a simple c-shaped metal bow would have cured so much...

Wait, what ?? Only 7K subscribers ?? 😳😳 *UNDERRATED CHANNEL* ! BTW, maybe you should add a "cage" around the bevel gears. These stinky mofos are incredibly good at wrecking things because of the surprisingly big amounts of force/torque they produce. Also, the planetary gears should be layed at the bottom of the hull. In your configuration, they put too much weight on a high place and it ruins the balance of your ship (she wants to capsize). Also, if you like glass fiber and epoxy, you should make a hull in fibers 😅. I hope it helps you. Sorry my english is as good as the first reel of plastic you used at the beginning of the video 😂

Really need to invest that design and put the heavy gearset down low in the hull.

instead of gears using a pulley system could work to increase the velocity ratio of the spool winding up the fishing line

maybe use some oil or grease, even in 3d printed parts. If you don't want to buy one, just use what you have in the kitchen. :D

I am confused why you didn't use some lithium grease in the gear reduction housings, I know it will increase ware on the gears but I think it would have helped with friction.

You might try putting the syringes above the gear, since it's lighter, and the gear lower and maybe get that hull to float.

This is the content of many contences! Example: to be so in to the details, that cannot see the big issue (balance) that is very teaching content ,thank you!

bro this was amazing!!! 😆😆😆 keep making videos hahahahaaaa

make the bevel gear a single unit that attaches to the gear/shaft with u joints. alignment wont be as critical and the more solid body holding the gears in place wont flex as much. if you put an axle across the horizontal gear it will have to fight against 2 sides to deflect up.

what if the planetary gears were mounted at bottom, and the syringes above it. ? if possible, find an appropriate belt and the 2 gears from a toy.

You could mount the syringes vertically like stacks and line up all the power transmission along the bottom of the hull. This would put the empty parts high and the driveline low.

I give that measurement joke a BIG OL D

I would actually have to fully design it on CAD here because you completely messed up on so many levels, it would take years to explain them all. That said, I FULLY APPLAUD your tenacity!

Between friction and putting on Band-Aid after Band-Aid I think you made a solid plastic melting machine hahaha.

The amount of failures and yet you still kept on going xD That's tough, I've been through projects like that and just want to quit. Sometimes they get the best of you, but then 6 months down the road you'll wake up one day and be like... Or I could try this. Hope you revisit some day, I've sub'd

Skip the gears. Let the plunger pull a string wound around the propeller shaft.

When I make 3d printed planetary gearbox I use thecatalystis planetary gearbox simulator to first check how many teeth on the gears to use. Then removing 1 teeth off of the planet gear and placing it exactly between the sun gear and ring gear. It works all the time on first try. Use normal straight cut gears. Helical gears isnt worth it and make the same noise.

Best thing I did was get rid of the Ender 3 and buy a Bambu lab printer. Ender 3 is for people that love 3D printers, Bambu lab printers are for people that love 3D printing.

Be careful when you let go of the "piston" part if you pull it out all the way. The piston can smash through the end of the syringe, maybe not the first time, but eventually... Ask me how I know 😂 great model mate too! 👍👍

gear train below the vacuum tubes so the weight distribution is lower

Have you looked at early compressed air motors for torpedos? Also consider testing filaments for the best torque loads. Just a thought. Projects like yours keeps me shy of 3d printing. I am just a self trained machinist/ watch maker, though with 60 years of practice.

I would use the modularity of your hull to extend it for another section. Maybe flip the gearbox 180 degrees and shorten the prop shaft and drive it directly. Putting the heavy gearbox low in the hull. In a longer design you could spool both syringes from the same rod.