This is an excellent video! If you follow it, anyone can do this job. I just did, and the whole project took less than five hours start to finish. You MUST have a good pair of fairly heavy duty angled snap ring pliers tho, or it will be nearly impossible. Lowes carries a Craftsman four-plier set for about $30. Well worth the investment and necessary for just about anything else you have to do on a Kubota. They use a lot of heavy duty snap rings! Great tip on heating the bearing before installing! I used a heat gun to warm them up, and they just dropped onto the axles. I didn’t chill the axles, but ambient temp was only 45. The bearings cool and set up on the axles quickly so if they don’t drop on correctly the first time, you’ll probably have to heat them a bit again to get them back off to try again. I just used the factory seals and didn’t use silicone sealer because I’ve found Kubotas preform pretty well as designed. I guess I’ll see if that’s true again this time. The original seals lasted about 900 hours, and I’m not using the tractor as hard as I used to. Another commenter below pointed out to also remove and clean the screen on the hydraulic pickup tube behind the left wheel before you fill it back up. Mine had some metal particles, which I blasted off with carb cleaner. There weren’t many, and I had cleaned it 300 hours previously when I changed the transmission fluid. Again, very well done video! BTW, I' the guy with the big handlebar mustache that hosts the TV show, My Classic Car".
Glad it helped! I have since cleaned the pick up screen. It did have some particles in it. I have over 1,800 hrs on my BX2200 now and use it hard every season of the year! No axle leaks since I replaced them. I have lots of other Kubota maintenance videos I need to upload. I’m just too busy having fun tackling the next big project! Also, I’m humbled to receive feedback from someone as yourself! I am familiar with your show and have even watched some episodes over the years.
My only comments: 1) If the oil has that much debris and shavings, pull the screen and clean that before filling it up again. It's a little late now after 3 years, but for anybody else... 2) You can probably use almost any hydraulic oil that meets the UDT standards that the BX2200 had, but I filed my BX2230 back up with UDT2 and the hydro whine was noticeably better. More money, sure, but better on my hearing. But overall, I agree that you have done an excellent job showing how to do this task. I may not have ever attempted it w/o this video. I hope I never have to, but my hours are similar to what yours were when you did it, so I'm not going to hold my breath. Now, I wouldn't be afraid of it. Thank you!
Excellent. Thank you for being so thorough with your video coverage and commentary. I am going to try this even though I just had my tires ballasted... they'll be heavy!
I just changed out my axle seals and bearings. 1/2 hour per side after removing wheels. Get your tools and parts in order, it goes fast. I also added some Permatex "Right Stuff" on the seal edge to help out.
Thanks for the detailed video and explanations. I have a BX2350 with the same axle seal problem and will be replacing the seal and bearing today. Where we live we have wild grapevine and it likes to wrap around the axle and rip out the oil seal. The dealer charges lots of money to replace it. I like your heat/cool tricks for getting the bearing off and on better than my hydraulic press, which can be tricky without the right adapter.
One note: the silicone sealer should go on the female part of any joint. The best job puts the sealer evenly on BOTH contact points. Damn nice video! You just saved a lot of guys a hellava lot of money!
My b24 is leaking and I've looked at it for years and thought that's going to be ridiculously hard to do..... I didn't think for one second I could do this whit no effort.....
The next time you change the hydraulic trans fluid you should clean the screen on the pickup tube. It behind the left tire, toward the back left corner of the transmission. Good informative video.
OldSchoolWays thanks for the tip! I’ll definitely check that out next time. Which is probably soon. Been using it hard this year! Seals still leak free!
It sounds strange that these seal are coming loose in the axle housing. I have been buying the kubots UDT-2 fluid which is outrageously expensive especially with an old leaky tractor. Read somewhere that the BX's will not work well with non synthetic hydraulic fluid. Something about heating. My BX2200 is one of the first built with the loader controls on the loader. Need to fix the leaky axle seal. I have the seal but if it is leaking on the outside I will just use the gasket maker. Thanks for the video.
Very good! I have an older B2150 but this looks to be the same. Also have and broke the same HF pliers. Was in the middle of a job so ground the ends and made new ends and was able to finish the job but those pliers a done.
RidemFast glad you liked it and hopefully it gives you a thorough review of the process. It isn’t hard if ur a little mechanically inclined. Let me know how you make out on your unit. Good luck!
Glad to see someone else comment with a B2150. Here I am today, looking to do this very job. Got the snap ring out, but the shaft wont come out. Just moved like 1/8" (just to the edge of the groove where the snap ring was) Unsure if I should try a to pry it out or tap it with a 3lb sledge to see if it moves. Any advice on this?? So far the video is accurate for the B2150. Thanks
I have two questions where do I get the bearing and seal hat and how about the different while using the transmission? Is there a different? Thanks for your help
Hello Log Cabin Life. Great video. I too have a BX2200 and both rear axle seals are leaking. Leaking so bad I have stopped using my tractor! I have been very hesitant to replace the seals because I have been told - by multiple sources (two different Kubota dealers and another independent) - that when you pull the axle shafts out there is a risk that the gears inside the case can "drop" - and if that happens, one then has to completely disassemble the tractor so as to split the entire rear gear housing so as to be able to 'rebuild' the gearing! A major big and costly job!!! Had you heard anything like that? You made the job look so simple. Certainly looks like something I have the ability, tools and (now) specific know-how (thanks to you) to do myself but, again... I have been terribly hesitant to do the repair because of that fear of the (internal) gears 'dropping'. ???
Hi Thomas. Thanks for the comments. I have never heard of the inner gears just falling. I guess anything is possible, but usually the inner gears and mechanisms only have so much travel and are pinned and located with physical hardware to prevent parts from just floating freely inside your transmission. It might be possible for things to become misaligned I suppose. But to the point of having to totally break down the transmission seems a bit extreme. I'm wondering if the dealers and service shop were just trying to persuade you to have them do the work. I wonder how much are they charging to replace the seal & bearings? I didn't have any problems with getting it back together. I've had several other people comment that it went smooth for them as well. No one mentioned they had any falling gears or misalignment of any sort.
@@vlogcabinlife4919 Thanks for responding. The dealer I originally purchased the tractor from... They are no longer in business and I couldn't be happier. They were TERRIBLE - on so many levels!!! When the subsequent dealer I started to go to told me the same thing could happen... Hmmmmm??? After seeing your video - reading the posts from others - hearing back from you - and not finding any others to confirm this... I am going to go to a known qualified independent tech and have him do the job. (Even though I feel I could probably do the job myself. (It really seems pretty straight fwd.) Thanks again for the video - well done - and thanks for the additional feedback.
I wonder if a 2380 BX is set up the same way , my right rear axle started leaking today . Btw good job on the video! I called into and found out that it’s just like yours seal is $11.66 so I’ll be picking it up today . Thank you again for your video.
Howard Miller thanks. Glad it was helpful to you. I would guess all Kubotas are similar to some degree. Still no leaks on mine since the repair. And I’ve been working it hard!
vLog Cabin Life well I replaced my seal today and letting it dry over night . My seal didn’t go bad it worked it’s self out of the axle housing , I have never seen that happen. I use JB Weld gasket maker and sealer holds up against trans fluid ,oil etc... and holds up against tempts of 500 degrees. They told me I didn’t have to change all the fluid but I decided I’m going and change the filter also.
Howard Miller let me know how it turns out. That JB weld gasket maker should do the trick. I too found that the one side seemed like the old seal was loose in the housing.
I'm working on the same repair but am having a hard time with the snap ring holding in the bearing. Do you recall the snap ring pliers you used on yours? the changeable heads/pin type pliers are not doing the trick.
The exact pliers I used were BLUEPOINT (SNAP-ON) PR5645A Bent Nose Int/Ext Snap-Ring Pliers. But anything similar should work. I had the same problem that it sounds you are having with the changeable head/pin type. Too much play and it couldn't hold onto the clip.
Awesome video but mine is a G1800 Kubota . Do you know how to replace the rear seals on it. Yours is almost identical but there are some differences. Once I removed the seal there was not any clips on mine . The bearing sits at the inner wall so you can not pull out the axle. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
I’m not familiar with the G series. But I did a quick search and it appears to be more closely related to a garden tractor. I’ve torn apart garden tractor rear hydrostatic transmissions. Namely cub cadets. Not sure how close cub cadet and Kubota hydros are but if I recall correctly I had to remove the entire hydro from the tractor to do any work to the axle bearings. I believe you have to split the hydro case open. Sorry I couldn’t be more help.
Check out Messick’s website. They have great parts diagrams and parts in stock. I use them. Here’s a link to your tractor’s hydro. www.messicks.com/ku/84894?sectionId=216931&diagramId=337905 And another. www.messicks.com/ku/84894?sectionId=216931&diagramId=337906
Why are you sanding on the inside of the housing and introducing all those metal pieces into the axle where it will wear on the gears and destroy the bearings? Don't do this at home.
This is an excellent video! If you follow it, anyone can do this job. I just did, and the whole project took less than five hours start to finish. You MUST have a good pair of fairly heavy duty angled snap ring pliers tho, or it will be nearly impossible. Lowes carries a Craftsman four-plier set for about $30. Well worth the investment and necessary for just about anything else you have to do on a Kubota. They use a lot of heavy duty snap rings!
Great tip on heating the bearing before installing! I used a heat gun to warm them up, and they just dropped onto the axles. I didn’t chill the axles, but ambient temp was only 45. The bearings cool and set up on the axles quickly so if they don’t drop on correctly the first time, you’ll probably have to heat them a bit again to get them back off to try again.
I just used the factory seals and didn’t use silicone sealer because I’ve found Kubotas preform pretty well as designed. I guess I’ll see if that’s true again this time. The original seals lasted about 900 hours, and I’m not using the tractor as hard as I used to.
Another commenter below pointed out to also remove and clean the screen on the hydraulic pickup tube behind the left wheel before you fill it back up. Mine had some metal particles, which I blasted off with carb cleaner. There weren’t many, and I had cleaned it 300 hours previously when I changed the transmission fluid.
Again, very well done video! BTW, I' the guy with the big handlebar mustache that hosts the TV show, My Classic Car".
Glad it helped! I have since cleaned the pick up screen. It did have some particles in it. I have over 1,800 hrs on my BX2200 now and use it hard every season of the year! No axle leaks since I replaced them. I have lots of other Kubota maintenance videos I need to upload. I’m just too busy having fun tackling the next big project! Also, I’m humbled to receive feedback from someone as yourself! I am familiar with your show and have even watched some episodes over the years.
My only comments: 1) If the oil has that much debris and shavings, pull the screen and clean that before filling it up again. It's a little late now after 3 years, but for anybody else... 2) You can probably use almost any hydraulic oil that meets the UDT standards that the BX2200 had, but I filed my BX2230 back up with UDT2 and the hydro whine was noticeably better. More money, sure, but better on my hearing.
But overall, I agree that you have done an excellent job showing how to do this task. I may not have ever attempted it w/o this video. I hope I never have to, but my hours are similar to what yours were when you did it, so I'm not going to hold my breath. Now, I wouldn't be afraid of it. Thank you!
Excellent. Thank you for being so thorough with your video coverage and commentary. I am going to try this even though I just had my tires ballasted... they'll be heavy!
I just changed out my axle seals and bearings. 1/2 hour per side after removing wheels. Get your tools and parts in order, it goes fast. I also added some Permatex "Right Stuff" on the seal edge to help out.
Thanks for the detailed video and explanations. I have a BX2350 with the same axle seal problem and will be replacing the seal and bearing today. Where we live we have wild grapevine and it likes to wrap around the axle and rip out the oil seal. The dealer charges lots of money to replace it. I like your heat/cool tricks for getting the bearing off and on better than my hydraulic press, which can be tricky without the right adapter.
My right rear seal is shot, only 400hrs, have to do this job too. Thanks for the great step by step huge help.
One note: the silicone sealer should go on the female part of any joint. The best job puts the sealer evenly on BOTH contact points. Damn nice video! You just saved a lot of guys a hellava lot of money!
Michael Dudley Welch thanks. Glad you like it. Most jobs anyone can do. Having the right tools and a little know how goes a long way!
My b24 is leaking and I've looked at it for years and thought that's going to be ridiculously hard to do..... I didn't think for one second I could do this whit no effort.....
Great video. I was able to do this myself. Glad you did such a thorough job
Very thorough video, you just saved me some money. Thanks !!
excellent video... very detailed and to the point!!! Thank you
Thank you for making this video, it was very helpful
7/29/23 great tips and videos good job THANKS. POOR BOY
Thanks for the video . Doing this soon to mine same problem
Also, thank you for posting this excellent video. You just saved me a bundle $$$.
Great video and very informative. Thanks
The next time you change the hydraulic trans fluid you should clean the screen on the pickup tube. It behind the left tire, toward the back left corner of the transmission. Good informative video.
OldSchoolWays thanks for the tip! I’ll definitely check that out next time. Which is probably soon. Been using it hard this year! Seals still leak free!
great video THANKS... to do this job you really need to get the right snap ring pliers, large tip 45 degree angle
You are absolutely correct!
It sounds strange that these seal are coming loose in the axle housing. I have been buying the kubots UDT-2 fluid which is outrageously expensive especially with an old leaky tractor. Read somewhere that the BX's will not work well with non synthetic hydraulic fluid. Something about heating. My BX2200 is one of the first built with the loader controls on the loader. Need to fix the leaky axle seal. I have the seal but if it is leaking on the outside I will just use the gasket maker. Thanks for the video.
Very good! I have an older B2150 but this looks to be the same. Also have and broke the same HF pliers. Was in the middle of a job so ground the ends and made new ends and was able to finish the job but those pliers a done.
RidemFast glad you liked it and hopefully it gives you a thorough review of the process. It isn’t hard if ur a little mechanically inclined. Let me know how you make out on your unit. Good luck!
Glad to see someone else comment with a B2150. Here I am today, looking to do this very job. Got the snap ring out, but the shaft wont come out. Just moved like 1/8" (just to the edge of the groove where the snap ring was) Unsure if I should try a to pry it out or tap it with a 3lb sledge to see if it moves. Any advice on this?? So far the video is accurate for the B2150. Thanks
I've got a JD1023E that has a RR axle leak. Kubota rear end looks similar to the Deere.
There's a debris filter right near the drain plug, it faces outboard. That can be pulled and cleaned, which *should* capture the shavings.
I have two questions where do I get the bearing and seal hat and how about the different while using the transmission? Is there a different? Thanks for your help
Hello Log Cabin Life. Great video. I too have a BX2200 and both rear axle seals are leaking. Leaking so bad I have stopped using my tractor! I have been very hesitant to replace the seals because I have been told - by multiple sources (two different Kubota dealers and another independent) - that when you pull the axle shafts out there is a risk that the gears inside the case can "drop" - and if that happens, one then has to completely disassemble the tractor so as to split the entire rear gear housing so as to be able to 'rebuild' the gearing! A major big and costly job!!!
Had you heard anything like that?
You made the job look so simple. Certainly looks like something I have the ability, tools and (now) specific know-how (thanks to you) to do myself but, again... I have been terribly hesitant to do the repair because of that fear of the (internal) gears 'dropping'.
???
Hi Thomas. Thanks for the comments. I have never heard of the inner gears just falling. I guess anything is possible, but usually the inner gears and mechanisms only have so much travel and are pinned and located with physical hardware to prevent parts from just floating freely inside your transmission. It might be possible for things to become misaligned I suppose. But to the point of having to totally break down the transmission seems a bit extreme. I'm wondering if the dealers and service shop were just trying to persuade you to have them do the work. I wonder how much are they charging to replace the seal & bearings? I didn't have any problems with getting it back together. I've had several other people comment that it went smooth for them as well. No one mentioned they had any falling gears or misalignment of any sort.
@@vlogcabinlife4919 Thanks for responding.
The dealer I originally purchased the tractor from... They are no longer in business and I couldn't be happier. They were TERRIBLE - on so many levels!!! When the subsequent dealer I started to go to told me the same thing could happen...
Hmmmmm???
After seeing your video - reading the posts from others - hearing back from you - and not finding any others to confirm this... I am going to go to a known qualified independent tech and have him do the job. (Even though I feel I could probably do the job myself. (It really seems pretty straight fwd.)
Thanks again for the video - well done - and thanks for the additional feedback.
@@thomasmurrin5460 sure thing. You're welcome. Glad my efforts can be useful to others. Let me know how you make out.
I wonder if a 2380 BX is set up the same way , my right rear axle started leaking today . Btw good job on the video! I called into and found out that it’s just like yours seal is $11.66 so I’ll be picking it up today . Thank you again for your video.
Howard Miller thanks. Glad it was helpful to you. I would guess all Kubotas are similar to some degree. Still no leaks on mine since the repair. And I’ve been working it hard!
vLog Cabin Life well I replaced my seal today and letting it dry over night . My seal didn’t go bad it worked it’s self out of the axle housing , I have never seen that happen. I use JB Weld gasket maker and sealer holds up against trans fluid ,oil etc... and holds up against tempts of 500 degrees. They told me I didn’t have to change all the fluid but I decided I’m going and change the filter also.
Howard Miller let me know how it turns out. That JB weld gasket maker should do the trick. I too found that the one side seemed like the old seal was loose in the housing.
vLog Cabin Life it turned out very good ! No leaks no problems with at at all. Been using it daily and is dry and has not moved.
Could you please let me know which kind of this oil seal?
Could you please share oil seal sketch for my understanding
Do you happen to know what the model number of the snap ring pliers you used? I would like to buy a pair but not sure which one to get
As long as you don't buy the stamped metal ones you should be good.
I'm working on the same repair but am having a hard time with the snap ring holding in the bearing. Do you recall the snap ring pliers you used on yours? the changeable heads/pin type pliers are not doing the trick.
The exact pliers I used were BLUEPOINT (SNAP-ON) PR5645A Bent Nose Int/Ext Snap-Ring Pliers. But anything similar should work. I had the same problem that it sounds you are having with the changeable head/pin type. Too much play and it couldn't hold onto the clip.
@@vlogcabinlife4919 Thanks for the quick reply - EXACTLY! I couldn't get them to hold the clip as I was trying to extract it.
Awesome video but mine is a G1800 Kubota . Do you know how to replace the rear seals on it. Yours is almost identical but there are some differences. Once I removed the seal there was not any clips on mine . The bearing sits at the inner wall so you can not pull out the axle. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
I’m not familiar with the G series. But I did a quick search and it appears to be more closely related to a garden tractor. I’ve torn apart garden tractor rear hydrostatic transmissions. Namely cub cadets. Not sure how close cub cadet and Kubota hydros are but if I recall correctly I had to remove the entire hydro from the tractor to do any work to the axle bearings. I believe you have to split the hydro case open. Sorry I couldn’t be more help.
Check out Messick’s website. They have great parts diagrams and parts in stock. I use them. Here’s a link to your tractor’s hydro. www.messicks.com/ku/84894?sectionId=216931&diagramId=337905
And another.
www.messicks.com/ku/84894?sectionId=216931&diagramId=337906
@@vlogcabinlife4919 Thank You for the quick reply and website
Did you figure.this out. I'm planning to replace a seal on my g1800 next week. Do I have to take the whole transmission apart?
no need to sit overnight ?
What kind of silicone did you use?
He said, "Blue RTV Silicone Gasket Maker" pretty common at the auto parts store.
I hope my massey 1010 is the same.
"previous owner said it meticulously maintained it" .. translation: previous owner demonstrated that talking is not doing.
Good video subject wise but Terrible audio your voice is muffled slightly but the clanging of tools is horrendous.
My God you talk alot!
Why are you sanding on the inside of the housing and introducing all those metal pieces into the axle where it will wear on the gears and destroy the bearings? Don't do this at home.