I love how Vince just fixes whatever he wants regardless of the algorithm lol this is why you’re my favourite channel. Will I ever fix an air fryer? No. Have I watched all the air fryer repairs? Hell yes!
Did you notice the marking on the power PCB? It has boxes for 120V and 220V, and the 120V box is checked! What if the reason the coils overheated is because the factory installed the 120V versions? Or perhaps in the 220V version, they are supposed to be in series while in the 120V version they are in parallel?
Vince i think the failure was because of reduced air flow. if you notice the air intake is at the top around the cover you replaced last and the exhaust is at the back through the vents. If the air intake was obstructed by something on top of the air fryer therefore blocking it would overheat the motors and thermal fuses blowing them due to the no air flow. 3A thermal fuses are fine as long as the thermal rating is the same its okay, The 3A is the current they can carry in normal use. Hope this helps. Love the vids. Keep up the great work. All the best from Wales
On the Ninja air fryer the vents stick out of the fryer so much harder to block. First thing i noticed and didn't like about the fryer was flat vents. I also always pull mine away from the wall when in use, because one video i watched the guy moved his fryer and was left with a nice brown scorch mark on the wall.
Had same issue on a friends airfryer which was pushed into a corner with no airflow caused it to overheat and blow the thermal fuse after 2-3 uses I didn’t bother fixing but looked as a research as to why for a bit of fun teaching my kids how thing actually work.
I just love the PCBWay segues Vince! This is what makes me actually want to watch the sponsorships in your channel! ( and I love that you still stencilled the PCBWay logo on your lounge wall!😉7:47 )
Vince, leave the fuses as you have them buddy. It's like a relay, the amp value simply shows the maximum current you can safely push through it. Same with the voltage. On a thermal fuse the only thing really that matters is the break temperature or temperature at which the conductive fuse melts. The other two values represent "Maximum" safe parameters. So even a 100 amp one would work although it would likely be too physically big. The key is to get one small enough to fit with sufficient current and voltage specs.
So many people use these fryers, and when they are switched on and cooking the fryer is pressed hard against the kitchen wall reducing the airflow. The 3a thermal fuse will be no problems (in fact it is a better fuse than the factory fitted one) but make sure you use the same factory temp rating for both fuses. Great video as usual.
Maybe the previous owner ran the Air Fryer in some kind of Cabinet or blocked the Vents and it overheated the fan motors, but who knows. Nice Fix Vince! :)
I was wondering what was rattling about inside it, does sound like it had suffered some form of drop impact to cause the thermals to pop. Another brilliant fix.
Hi, Vince, not sure when you tested the air fryer but did you have the extension cable un-wound ? I am sure you are aware if your using an extension cable and your are going to pull over say 2amps then the extension cable should be fully unwound to avoid eddy currents occurring and heating up the extension cable.
8:05 the control panel might only use a 1 wire protol and ofcourse power. The ui board has a microcontroller which comminucates with the mcu on the relay board
The price of microcontrollers must have gone down enough to be cheaper than the extra wire and connectors. You see this most often in avionics where the weight of the wire is a factor.
I have one of these and use it daily. To save washing up with the trays, I place some parchment paper in the bottom of each one and then let any oil from the food cool after use / solidify and then repace the parchment. Much easier and no mess.
Great fix Vince. I would leave the thermal fuses in place after all the work. Maybe just put a couple of small 2amp fuses in line with each motor on or near the circuit board for reinsurance.
We had exactly the same model air fryer and ours stopped working with the exact same problem after just over a month or so. Back to Argos and they gave us our money back no problem. Had a dual basket Ninja for 18 months or so now without any problems and use it virtually every day.
I noticed you put your hand at the back when the fans started. Is it possible the fryer was put up against something not allowing the heat to dissipate therefore overheating the fans
I have that same air frier, but with a different name. There is a button to press if you have 2 items that take different times, but you want them to finish at the same time.
Vince - on the Amp question... You have plenty of protection in there from an amperage perspective prior to the motors including the relays. 3A will not be a problem, in fact it's probably an improvement from the original design. Why did they blow ? Someone probably left the unit on WAY TOO LONG and it overheats things.
I think someone already worked on it before you, and replaced the power supply board with the version for 120vac (also mentioned in another comment). You noticed a rattling inside and when you took the cover off, one of the clips was broken off, I assume that broken clips is what was rattling around in it?
Maybe got it as a gift. It would be awkward to call a person who gifted it and ask if they still have the receipt and warranty documents, because their gift doesn't work.
@@TheLastPhoen1x That's a bit of a stretch! The seller was obviously lying. It doesn't matter so much for MMV but scammy sellers like this are endemic on eBay. They really need to get a grip on the problem.
We just recently bought an air fryer. I'm trying to use it more then a fancy/faster way to heat up frozen "fried" stuff (fish sticks, French fri...er, chips). I did coconut shrimp that came out pretty well and we're going to try bacon. Oh...and we did do refrigerated cookie dough but they're a little tricky. Have to get the right shape/temp/time or the edges are a bit too crispy but the middle isn't done. Which isn't necessarily a bad thing. Great video!
Do you recommend it over a convection oven (toaster oven with a muffin fan)? I’m tired of the mess and size of the toaster oven. It came with an “air fry” function and basket but it makes a mess and I’m not convinced it’s efficient
@@agoogleuser704 I'm probably not the right person to ask since we don't have a convection oven. I do think air fryers are a bit overhyped. If you do get one, get one with a bigger basket since you're supposed to not have the food piled up so a bigger surface means more food.
Nice fix, as usual. Those thermal fuses are very common with wound products. I first came across them on power supply transformers. I now have a selection in my spare parts. Odd that both have failed in the same way. Odd that the circuit board has a tick in the 120v box. (Are they working in reverse logic? The tick means 'not this one'?). In my repair logic, I would have checked the motor windings first and worked backward from there. Nice result.
I have the same air fryer. One side makes a noise as if the fan is jammed. When I spin it inside it move freely. The only way to stop the noise is to bang down hard on top of the unit. Any idea what it could be?
Exactly, ignoring the "sealed" things for a moment (how would they know it was broken if it was sealed!), if I bought something and it was broken from the factory I would return it to the shop and either get a new one or a full refund. What I would not do is sell it on eBay for half as much as I paid for it... This is obviously a fraudulent seller.
Half the cooking time and only 3 minutes pre-heating compared to 15 to 20 in an oven,that's why they are so energy efficient and popular,enjoyable video
I see some good suggestions in the comments, but one common issue missing. Did someone unpack this and run it with some packaging still in place against the fans, stalling the motors until they overheated? I've seen that kind of thing before.
Hey Vince, you should try and add feature to motherboards to see if they work. I recently bought a motherboard and found an array of pads that look like there was supposed to be a wifi card option and I got to thinking. If I soldered on that connector would it work? I noticed on another board I have that there was supposed to be a m.2 slot on the back that not populated either. What are your thoughts and would you consider my challenge?
I think the first owner put the unit up against the wall or blocked the fan exhaust some other way while it was in use. I know of someone who thought it was ok to put a toaster oven inside a cupboard while in use! In a tight space the air getting blocked will cause the over heating. Was the 120V box ticked by mistake?
Hey Vince i have a good item that may make a good video., its a Samsung 24 inch monitor that has started flashing on and off when i turn it on. while displaying a image the top and bottom of the screen are darker than the rest of the screen the only thing is that once the dark parts of the screen goes to the normal brightness the flashing stops and the monitor works as normal. ive had the monitor for 3 years now and its worked great up untill 3 days ago when this suddenly started.
Hi Vince, yet another great fix. I am just wondering why it turned off the fans and not the heater element. I think that the heater element is the one which is "more dangerous".
I have the same air fryer only thing I can think of is that it’s been pushed to close to the wall and it couldn’t breath properly thus overheating the motors as they are directly above the elements.
I thought 'air fryer' meant there was something cool going on not just a tiny fan assisted oven and no thermal fuses wont blow if you drop them. So whats with that board marked 120v did you go any further or it just seems ok and marked up wrong? had enough of these little ovens now Vince !! lol.....cheers.
Yeah, no more Air Fyers for me now 😂 I didn't go any further yet with the board marked up as 120v. I need to use it more to see if it fails again. I'm also not sure what the difference would be between a 120v and 240v??? Not sure what components would be different as if the heater elements are 120v I would have thought they would have burnt up on first use 👍👍
Where did you get your blue mat from? I’ve got a similar one but mines like all the rest on Amazon where they have the bit for pcb boards. I want a completely flat one like yours, thanks
what was the broken rattly bit? looked like a clip was broken so someone may have already tried to see if it was an easy fix. Far from new but works like new now. Good video
Would be interesting to see what voltage is on the box or manufacturer plate ? Could it be a 120v machine that someone has thought they could just cut of the original plug and fit a uk plug because they possibly got it cheap ?
Vince, I'm pretty sure the reason that both thermal fuses blew was because the PCBWay sponsorship paper was affecting the exhaust ventilation, causing the ambient temp to get too warm inside the housing. 😁
Can you use a bit of wet paper towel or something to help draw the heat away from the fuse when soldering? A bit more fiddly I suppose, and what you did clearly worked, it just seems like a better thermal bridge than bare metal-to-metal. If I had to guess I'd say both thermal fuses were blown during the factory assembly, because they let them get too hot during soldering. Either that or they put the wrong rated fuses in, which would be unfortunate 😅 Maybe someone put some food in and tried cooking it before realising the fault, hence the faint smell.
For reference: For most application you will see, over current fuses have a maximum current (with various break specifications) and break the circuit in the event of *over current* conditions. Thermal overload fuses, surprise surprise, break the circuit in the event of *thermal* overload with a maximum permissable current load (either it's the maximum the device can guarantee to break or sometimes it's to keep the current below the point at which it would overheat the device and cause it to blow itself!) A current overload fuse rating is the current when it breaks (sort of) so too big is bad, a thermal fuse current rating is the maximum the device can safely or reliably control so too small is bad. Leave what you have done, don't pass go ... Oh, and installing wire splices on the windings have various issues - removal of the enamel is an extra step (eats time and profit), if the windings are fine the electromechanical connection within the splice can be unreliable, lastly the crimping operation itself can cause breakage of fine wire terminations because of the handling and stress at the end of the splice. All in all, cheaper to do it as a single operation with solder on a production line ... as long as the staff are trained to not hold the iron on the component lead too long otherwise you can get blow fuse problems (yes, I've heard of it on production lines before!)
Vine, replace the small one for this, you can do two different foods at the same time. The thermal fuses are fine, the important part is the temperature the fuse is set to blow at. I think the issue was the previous owner had something sitting on top of the air fryer, blocking the air intake. The tick box on the PCB said 120v, but the fuses are rated at 240v, so the box marking is wrong. Besides, Tower is a UK brand, so maybe a generic PCB.
I have the same air fryer. It works intermittently, i can turn it on and off but nothing else, sometimes it works just fine, could it be the control panel?
I didn't see it in the comments but may have missed it. If you are soldering temperature sensitive devices, you can use forceps clamped onto the wires near the device to pull heat away form the device. Gripping the device with pliers wound do too much to keep the device cool form conducted heat through the leads. If they are particularly sensitive, forceps with a little heat sink compound works well.
Possible reason for thermal fuse blowing Run the air fryer at full heat and then unplug from the wall so that it can't cool down as it should. EDIT- monitor the power it is using so that the heating elements are hot before turning off at the wall, I bet the residual heat from the mass of food in the baskets and the elements will cause the fuse to blow. Stick a temp probe on the motor to see what happens. My first soldering kit from Tandy back in 1974 came with a tiny aluminium heat sink clip that had a notch in the jaws to hold onto the component lead. I still have it and the 15w Antex iron. All the best
I can recommend the two-basket air fryer if you can accommodate it in your kitchen. We often have salad with our dinner so I can cook a whole dinner - say meat and chips - at he same time in our Ninja using a lot less electricity and a lot quicker than the oven way.
Drop damage will NOT cause those fan motor thermal protectors to fail. Excessive heat will. Did you look at the manufacturer's nameplate on the back/bottom of the unit? It should say on there what voltage the unit is designed for. I also saw the mark on the PCB that designated that it was for 120 V.
Vince, did you get a look at the plastic bushes on the motor's? Just wondered how they looked when compared to the air fryer you did recently with the noisy fan.
Also, nice job by the way, well done chap. Maybe the fuses blew previously because it used in an enclosed space or didn't realise the air gap around the top is important for air flow and kept a tea tray or something on the top. The list of possibilities is huge. My motto is, 'if people can, they will' so unless something is specifically prevented, some idiot will do it...
*Bravo! Vince FIXES Dinner.* haha Thanks Vince I've been battling a Fuse in drip coffee maker, and can Not Read all markings. [blue tip] G4 'Microtemp' [Thermal Fuse]^ Read, & see, color [tip] doesn't note specific temp, so have No idea what to use. ^[has two, One good, can't read either]
I wonder if it had been put right up against a wall and blocked the vents at the back causing the thermal fuse to trip 🤔 Also as others I inoticed the 120V being ticked on the board, thats very odd to say rhe least!
Don't think you need worry too much about the fuse over rating - as you say it's primary safety feature is to disconnect on high temperature - I suspect that in this case the fuses blew because someone blocked the vents and the internal temperature rose which, along with the heat from the windings, cause the fuse blow temperature to be exceeded. There was no overheating visible on the motor windings. If there is a future motor failure, which causes excess current to flow, that would be associated with overheating and the fuses would still blow even though the current may exceed 2 Amps. The current rating is about the maximum current the fuse can pass without itself overheating - it is not a current protection device in the normal sense. When I lived in Australia, where the nominal mains Voltage is 250 Volts, many devices with 220/240 volt motors or transformers would overheat and blow these thermal fuses. I picked up so many things in the street throwout days that were perfectly OK just needed new thermal fuses. Chinese companies in particular sold their 220/240 volt products there and would not modify the design for such a small market.
To people outside of the United Kingdom of Great Britain (England, Scotland, and Wales) and Northern Ireland, goujons are called chicken tenders. My vote is on inadequate ventilation. I have a European sized kitchen because my apartment was built in 1965, before US kitchens doubled in size. I had my air fryer shoved against two walls. I've since moved it to get more ventilation, and I can see how it could have overheated. My regular oven has a huge pipe venting from one of the rear burners. I have to exercise caution around that burner when using the oven. Point being, ovens need to be well ventilated, and it says so in the instructions. I'd love to have a double air fryer like that but no room for it.
I once owned an AEG electric oven that had a vent fan. The thermal fuse blew on it, stopping the fan, but not the elements. This lead to the unit overheating and melting the plastic fittings on the front. This appears to be manufactured in the same way, than when the fan motor thermal fuse blows, the elements do not shut off, so could potentially overheat the whole unit. Doesn't seem very safe!
You can just rub soldering iron over the enameled wire to remove the insulation, wait for it to cool, then clamp onto it. Just another option to consider.
the amps does'nt matter on that thermal fuse, just as long its got enough or more than the motor needs, there's other measured to protect the entire thing from over current. also, you can solder flow the enamel off and then crimp the wire onto the fuse, extra safe.
Aside from the 120V/240V miss, I question the manufacturer decision to connect the thermal fuse so they disable the fans rather than the heating elements.. While in a thermal fail state, surely you'd want the heat input to stop as primary before worrying about where it's going? BTW, what was the loose part (screw?) that was rattling around inside? BTW air fryers work faster than standard ovens mostly because of the extremely enclosed space(s) they have to work with, along with controlled/ducted airflow. If you simply reduced a standard fan oven's cavity (or increased an air fryer's), you'd get pretty much the same performance from either IMO
A thermal fuse is exactly as you said, as long as the current rating is => than the original it is fine. It is the temperature of the device that is critical.
Not possible. The windings on the motors will present a fixed impedance at the rated voltage of the unit therefore they cannot draw enough current to burn up.
The amp rating on a thermal fuse is like the volts rating on a capacitor. Equal or higher is fine. The amp rating isn't the point, the temperature rating is what matters.
I'm wondering if these are returns that make their way back onto the market via the recyclers. So the original owner has got the replacement or a refund and the faulty items are sold via pallets of broken goods or sent away to be recycled and the resellable stuff makes it way onto eBay???
Video clearest of ALL. Voice clear, crisp, easily heard? Best clearest video om youtube! Well done! Viewer fr USA 85 YRS OLD!
'Take plenty of pictures' - the best bit of advice I've ever been given when trying to fix things.
It's been a lifeline many times.
I love how Vince just fixes whatever he wants regardless of the algorithm lol this is why you’re my favourite channel. Will I ever fix an air fryer? No. Have I watched all the air fryer repairs? Hell yes!
The best air fryer repair channel on youtube.
😂😂
Did you notice the marking on the power PCB? It has boxes for 120V and 220V, and the 120V box is checked! What if the reason the coils overheated is because the factory installed the 120V versions? Or perhaps in the 220V version, they are supposed to be in series while in the 120V version they are in parallel?
Never noticed that, but watching it back I can clearly see it! Well spotted 👏
I was focused on that the whole time wondering if that would cause those fuses to blow if they had twice the voltage going through them…
I was just about to post the exact same comment on that. I
i 'think' i almost understand what you're saying. Thanks! Very Clever - just READ. lol Cheers
120 v loads connected in series need 240v
That looked so nice to work on compared to most appliances these days.
Loved the sneaky PCBWay introduction.
Vince i think the failure was because of reduced air flow. if you notice the air intake is at the top around the cover you replaced last and the exhaust is at the back through the vents. If the air intake was obstructed by something on top of the air fryer therefore blocking it would overheat the motors and thermal fuses blowing them due to the no air flow. 3A thermal fuses are fine as long as the thermal rating is the same its okay, The 3A is the current they can carry in normal use. Hope this helps. Love the vids. Keep up the great work. All the best from Wales
Intake out outlets blocked maybe . If it is hard up against a wall perhaps it could not vent out properly
On the Ninja air fryer the vents stick out of the fryer so much harder to block. First thing i noticed and didn't like about the fryer was flat vents. I also always pull mine away from the wall when in use, because one video i watched the guy moved his fryer and was left with a nice brown scorch mark on the wall.
Had same issue on a friends airfryer which was pushed into a corner with no airflow caused it to overheat and blow the thermal fuse after 2-3 uses I didn’t bother fixing but looked as a research as to why for a bit of fun teaching my kids how thing actually work.
Another great video! Love all your fix it videos. My favorite u-tuber. Best wishes from the USA!
I just love the PCBWay segues Vince! This is what makes me actually want to watch the sponsorships in your channel! ( and I love that you still stencilled the PCBWay logo on your lounge wall!😉7:47 )
😂👍
My wife is using our double Ninja airfryer every day. There's so much we can prepare in this airfryer.
Vince, leave the fuses as you have them buddy. It's like a relay, the amp value simply shows the maximum current you can safely push through it. Same with the voltage. On a thermal fuse the only thing really that matters is the break temperature or temperature at which the conductive fuse melts. The other two values represent "Maximum" safe parameters. So even a 100 amp one would work although it would likely be too physically big. The key is to get one small enough to fit with sufficient current and voltage specs.
Perfect, thank you Rob👌
Naughty naughty Vince, running a high amp electrical device on a fully wound extension lead? Tut tut.
So many people use these fryers, and when they are switched on and cooking the fryer is pressed hard against the kitchen wall reducing the airflow.
The 3a thermal fuse will be no problems (in fact it is a better fuse than the factory fitted one) but make sure you use the same factory temp rating for both fuses.
Great video as usual.
Maybe the previous owner ran the Air Fryer in some kind of Cabinet or blocked the Vents and it overheated the fan motors, but who knows. Nice Fix Vince! :)
Yes, probably shoved it up against a wall 👍
150 degrees isn't that hot for an oven.
Hi Vince, Another great video as is the norm for your Channel, Love the way you work things out & are not afraid to have a go at fixing things! 🙂
love our airfryer, i just baked a fruit crumble in ours, they are just tiny ovens but we couldnt live without ours tbh. great video man
I tuned in for the wonderful intro track🎶 and stayed for the french 🍟 fries. Win Win. Thank you Mr.V
We have the same air fryer but ours came with one large drawer as well as the 2 separate drawers, can fit a whole chicken in it. Great fix!
No challenge for MMV. Taking pictures surely was a life saver there and is it always.
I was wondering what was rattling about inside it, does sound like it had suffered some form of drop impact to cause the thermals to pop. Another brilliant fix.
It was one of the plastic clips from the lid👍👍👍
Hmm that board voltage makes me wonder if that’s the cause of the blow to the thermal fuses, but nice fault find & fix Vince.
Hi, Vince, not sure when you tested the air fryer but did you have the extension cable un-wound ? I am sure you are aware if your using an extension cable and your are going to pull over say 2amps then the extension cable should be fully unwound to avoid eddy currents occurring and heating up the extension cable.
8:05 the control panel might only use a 1 wire protol and ofcourse power. The ui board has a microcontroller which comminucates with the mcu on the relay board
The price of microcontrollers must have gone down enough to be cheaper than the extra wire and connectors. You see this most often in avionics where the weight of the wire is a factor.
your "pcbway" insert method is dangerously clever. i hate it 😂
I have one of these and use it daily. To save washing up with the trays, I place some parchment paper in the bottom of each one and then let any oil from the food cool after use / solidify and then repace the parchment. Much easier and no mess.
Great job 👍 I had similar issues with my air fryer.
Cheers Paul 👍
Great fix Vince. I would leave the thermal fuses in place after all the work. Maybe just put a couple of small 2amp fuses in line with each motor on or near the circuit board for reinsurance.
Hi Vince is there thermal fuses on each motor and have tripped due to over heating because of lack of air flow.
We had exactly the same model air fryer and ours stopped working with the exact same problem after just over a month or so. Back to Argos and they gave us our money back no problem. Had a dual basket Ninja for 18 months or so now without any problems and use it virtually every day.
I noticed you put your hand at the back when the fans started. Is it possible the fryer was put up against something not allowing the heat to dissipate therefore overheating the fans
I have that same air frier, but with a different name. There is a button to press if you have 2 items that take different times, but you want them to finish at the same time.
Vince - on the Amp question... You have plenty of protection in there from an amperage perspective prior to the motors including the relays. 3A will not be a problem, in fact it's probably an improvement from the original design. Why did they blow ? Someone probably left the unit on WAY TOO LONG and it overheats things.
I think someone already worked on it before you, and replaced the power supply board with the version for 120vac (also mentioned in another comment). You noticed a rattling inside and when you took the cover off, one of the clips was broken off, I assume that broken clips is what was rattling around in it?
That or it was misassembled at the factory. UK plug + North American power board = boom.
Yeah, a broken clip from the lid👍👍
"Hi, I'm selling a NEW & SEALED Air-Fryer, when I switch it on, the fans don't work"
Now wait a minute! I have questions...!
Maybe got it as a gift. It would be awkward to call a person who gifted it and ask if they still have the receipt and warranty documents, because their gift doesn't work.
@@TheLastPhoen1x That's a bit of a stretch! The seller was obviously lying. It doesn't matter so much for MMV but scammy sellers like this are endemic on eBay. They really need to get a grip on the problem.
@@philiptaylor2366 Most likely, just giving them the benefit of a doubt.
@@TheLastPhoen1x Which is a great rule to apply in life, but never when it comes to eBay sellers ;-)
We just recently bought an air fryer. I'm trying to use it more then a fancy/faster way to heat up frozen "fried" stuff (fish sticks, French fri...er, chips). I did coconut shrimp that came out pretty well and we're going to try bacon. Oh...and we did do refrigerated cookie dough but they're a little tricky. Have to get the right shape/temp/time or the edges are a bit too crispy but the middle isn't done. Which isn't necessarily a bad thing. Great video!
Do you recommend it over a convection oven (toaster oven with a muffin fan)? I’m tired of the mess and size of the toaster oven. It came with an “air fry” function and basket but it makes a mess and I’m not convinced it’s efficient
@@agoogleuser704 I'm probably not the right person to ask since we don't have a convection oven. I do think air fryers are a bit overhyped. If you do get one, get one with a bigger basket since you're supposed to not have the food piled up so a bigger surface means more food.
Nice fix, as usual. Those thermal fuses are very common with wound products. I first came across them on power supply transformers. I now have a selection in my spare parts. Odd that both have failed in the same way. Odd that the circuit board has a tick in the 120v box. (Are they working in reverse logic? The tick means 'not this one'?). In my repair logic, I would have checked the motor windings first and worked backward from there. Nice result.
ah, clips - horrible to remove, great to put back in. Interesting fix, vince
I have the same air fryer. One side makes a noise as if the fan is jammed. When I spin it inside it move freely. The only way to stop the noise is to bang down hard on top of the unit. Any idea what it could be?
More like used and sealed, I've never trusted listings that claim new and sealed, great fix either way 👍
Exactly, ignoring the "sealed" things for a moment (how would they know it was broken if it was sealed!), if I bought something and it was broken from the factory I would return it to the shop and either get a new one or a full refund. What I would not do is sell it on eBay for half as much as I paid for it... This is obviously a fraudulent seller.
Nice fix, didn't think both would be failed really odd
Would it help to keep the temperature down if you dipped the wires in liquid solder instead of using the iron or heat gun ?
@13:03 - That board has a place to tick a box for voltage 120 vs 220. The box is ticked for 120V yet it's a UK plug. That stands out as odd to me.
Half the cooking time and only 3 minutes pre-heating compared to 15 to 20 in an oven,that's why they are so energy efficient and popular,enjoyable video
Then you’re busy when the oven is ready, and you come back and the lights on again but you think it’s not ready yet 😊
I see some good suggestions in the comments, but one common issue missing. Did someone unpack this and run it with some packaging still in place against the fans, stalling the motors until they overheated? I've seen that kind of thing before.
Hey Vince, you should try and add feature to motherboards to see if they work. I recently bought a motherboard and found an array of pads that look like there was supposed to be a wifi card option and I got to thinking. If I soldered on that connector would it work? I noticed on another board I have that there was supposed to be a m.2 slot on the back that not populated either. What are your thoughts and would you consider my challenge?
Vents covered up when in use? no place for the heat to escape and blown both fuses?
Nice video and good find, I agree with you these things just take up so much work top space
I think the first owner put the unit up against the wall or blocked the fan exhaust some other way while it was in use. I know of someone who thought it was ok to put a toaster oven inside a cupboard while in use! In a tight space the air getting blocked will cause the over heating. Was the 120V box ticked by mistake?
Nice fix! Love is in the Air (Fryers)! 😂
Hey Vince i have a good item that may make a good video., its a Samsung 24 inch monitor that has started flashing on and off when i turn it on. while displaying a image the top and bottom of the screen are darker than the rest of the screen the only thing is that once the dark parts of the screen goes to the normal brightness the flashing stops and the monitor works as normal. ive had the monitor for 3 years now and its worked great up untill 3 days ago when this suddenly started.
Vince now fixing his whole neighborhood air fryers 😂
What was the loose thing that was rattling around inside?
A plastic clip from the lid. I think I broke one on removal and one was already broken rattling around inside 👍
Hi Vince, yet another great fix. I am just wondering why it turned off the fans and not the heater element. I think that the heater element is the one which is "more dangerous".
I have the same air fryer only thing I can think of is that it’s been pushed to close to the wall and it couldn’t breath properly thus overheating the motors as they are directly above the elements.
I thought 'air fryer' meant there was something cool going on not just a tiny fan assisted oven and no thermal fuses wont blow if you drop them. So whats with that board marked 120v did you go any further or it just seems ok and marked up wrong? had enough of these little ovens now Vince !! lol.....cheers.
Yeah, no more Air Fyers for me now 😂 I didn't go any further yet with the board marked up as 120v. I need to use it more to see if it fails again. I'm also not sure what the difference would be between a 120v and 240v??? Not sure what components would be different as if the heater elements are 120v I would have thought they would have burnt up on first use 👍👍
@@Mymatevince Yeah would need to look closer but as you say all is well but im sure you will keep your eye on it :)
Excellent meticulous work... Thank you.
Thermal fuse and it has a red tick on 120 V; ran on 240?
Where did you get your blue mat from? I’ve got a similar one but mines like all the rest on Amazon where they have the bit for pcb boards. I want a completely flat one like yours, thanks
what was the broken rattly bit? looked like a clip was broken so someone may have already tried to see if it was an easy fix. Far from new but works like new now. Good video
Thanks Emma, yeah a broken clip from the lid. Sorry I didn't show that in the final edit. I think I broke one clip and one was already broken 👍
Would be interesting to see what voltage is on the box or manufacturer plate ? Could it be a 120v machine that someone has thought they could just cut of the original plug and fit a uk plug because they possibly got it cheap ?
How HOT was your extension lead/cable reel getting??...😱..
Vince, I'm pretty sure the reason that both thermal fuses blew was because the PCBWay sponsorship paper was affecting the exhaust ventilation, causing the ambient temp to get too warm inside the housing. 😁
Can you use a bit of wet paper towel or something to help draw the heat away from the fuse when soldering? A bit more fiddly I suppose, and what you did clearly worked, it just seems like a better thermal bridge than bare metal-to-metal.
If I had to guess I'd say both thermal fuses were blown during the factory assembly, because they let them get too hot during soldering. Either that or they put the wrong rated fuses in, which would be unfortunate 😅
Maybe someone put some food in and tried cooking it before realising the fault, hence the faint smell.
For reference:
For most application you will see, over current fuses have a maximum current (with various break specifications) and break the circuit in the event of *over current* conditions. Thermal overload fuses, surprise surprise, break the circuit in the event of *thermal* overload with a maximum permissable current load (either it's the maximum the device can guarantee to break or sometimes it's to keep the current below the point at which it would overheat the device and cause it to blow itself!) A current overload fuse rating is the current when it breaks (sort of) so too big is bad, a thermal fuse current rating is the maximum the device can safely or reliably control so too small is bad.
Leave what you have done, don't pass go ...
Oh, and installing wire splices on the windings have various issues - removal of the enamel is an extra step (eats time and profit), if the windings are fine the electromechanical connection within the splice can be unreliable, lastly the crimping operation itself can cause breakage of fine wire terminations because of the handling and stress at the end of the splice. All in all, cheaper to do it as a single operation with solder on a production line ... as long as the staff are trained to not hold the iron on the component lead too long otherwise you can get blow fuse problems (yes, I've heard of it on production lines before!)
Nice fix Vince check motors for voltage rating as the board was 120v
Vine, replace the small one for this, you can do two different foods at the same time. The thermal fuses are fine, the important part is the temperature the fuse is set to blow at. I think the issue was the previous owner had something sitting on top of the air fryer, blocking the air intake. The tick box on the PCB said 120v, but the fuses are rated at 240v, so the box marking is wrong. Besides, Tower is a UK brand, so maybe a generic PCB.
I have a tower double and It does say in the instructions " do not cover top vent as product may over heat ".
I have the same air fryer. It works intermittently, i can turn it on and off but nothing else, sometimes it works just fine, could it be the control panel?
I didn't see it in the comments but may have missed it. If you are soldering temperature sensitive devices, you can use forceps clamped onto the wires near the device to pull heat away form the device. Gripping the device with pliers wound do too much to keep the device cool form conducted heat through the leads. If they are particularly sensitive, forceps with a little heat sink compound works well.
Possible reason for thermal fuse blowing Run the air fryer at full heat and then unplug from the wall so that it can't cool down as it should.
EDIT- monitor the power it is using so that the heating elements are hot before turning off at the wall, I bet the residual heat from the mass of food in the baskets and the elements will cause the fuse to blow.
Stick a temp probe on the motor to see what happens.
My first soldering kit from Tandy back in 1974 came with a tiny aluminium heat sink clip that had a notch in the jaws to hold onto the component lead. I still have it and the 15w Antex iron.
All the best
Nice watch, Vince.
Does anyone know what model of hot air / sucker reflow station thing Vince uses 😮
Really stupid question I know. But could you of used the battery spot welder for the thermal fuse instead of soldering it
Not stupid at all and yes if the materials permit so a quick test would be in order.
I can recommend the two-basket air fryer if you can accommodate it in your kitchen. We often have salad with our dinner so I can cook a whole dinner - say meat and chips - at he same time in our Ninja using a lot less electricity and a lot quicker than the oven way.
The left fuse was rated dirrerent tgat tge right one soo u replaced w higher one???
Drop damage will NOT cause those fan motor thermal protectors to fail. Excessive heat will. Did you look at the manufacturer's nameplate on the back/bottom of the unit? It should say on there what voltage the unit is designed for. I also saw the mark on the PCB that designated that it was for 120 V.
Vince, did you get a look at the plastic bushes on the motor's? Just wondered how they looked when compared to the air fryer you did recently with the noisy fan.
Also, nice job by the way, well done chap. Maybe the fuses blew previously because it used in an enclosed space or didn't realise the air gap around the top is important for air flow and kept a tea tray or something on the top. The list of possibilities is huge. My motto is, 'if people can, they will' so unless something is specifically prevented, some idiot will do it...
*Bravo! Vince FIXES Dinner.* haha Thanks Vince
I've been battling a Fuse in drip coffee maker, and can Not Read all markings. [blue tip] G4 'Microtemp' [Thermal Fuse]^
Read, & see, color [tip] doesn't note specific temp, so have No idea what to use. ^[has two, One good, can't read either]
Perfect Timing as always 👍🏻
Could be it was up against the wall and overheated there is a big warning on mine to make sure it has ventilation all around
I wonder if it had been put right up against a wall and blocked the vents at the back causing the thermal fuse to trip 🤔
Also as others I inoticed the 120V being ticked on the board, thats very odd to say rhe least!
Don't think you need worry too much about the fuse over rating - as you say it's primary safety feature is to disconnect on high temperature - I suspect that in this case the fuses blew because someone blocked the vents and the internal temperature rose which, along with the heat from the windings, cause the fuse blow temperature to be exceeded. There was no overheating visible on the motor windings. If there is a future motor failure, which causes excess current to flow, that would be associated with overheating and the fuses would still blow even though the current may exceed 2 Amps. The current rating is about the maximum current the fuse can pass without itself overheating - it is not a current protection device in the normal sense.
When I lived in Australia, where the nominal mains Voltage is 250 Volts, many devices with 220/240 volt motors or transformers would overheat and blow these thermal fuses. I picked up so many things in the street throwout days that were perfectly OK just needed new thermal fuses. Chinese companies in particular sold their 220/240 volt products there and would not modify the design for such a small market.
To people outside of the United Kingdom of Great Britain (England, Scotland, and Wales) and Northern Ireland, goujons are called chicken tenders. My vote is on inadequate ventilation. I have a European sized kitchen because my apartment was built in 1965, before US kitchens doubled in size. I had my air fryer shoved against two walls. I've since moved it to get more ventilation, and I can see how it could have overheated. My regular oven has a huge pipe venting from one of the rear burners. I have to exercise caution around that burner when using the oven. Point being, ovens need to be well ventilated, and it says so in the instructions. I'd love to have a double air fryer like that but no room for it.
Vince! What was clanking around on the inside? I must know.
Sorry I didn't show that!!! It was one of the plastic clips from the lid 👍👍👍
Isn't it dangerous if you put a lot of current over a rolled up reel? 2600 watts over a spool/bobbin?
Maybe the vents were blocked and the heat of the element got to the coils. Or maybe the motors got stuck and burned
some people use them paper sheets in their airfryers and they can be sucked up if left in with no food in. Maybe that blocked off the fans
Nice fix. As always
I once owned an AEG electric oven that had a vent fan. The thermal fuse blew on it, stopping the fan, but not the elements. This lead to the unit overheating and melting the plastic fittings on the front. This appears to be manufactured in the same way, than when the fan motor thermal fuse blows, the elements do not shut off, so could potentially overheat the whole unit. Doesn't seem very safe!
I have a Ninja one like that, works amazingly
You can just rub soldering iron over the enameled wire to remove the insulation, wait for it to cool, then clamp onto it. Just another option to consider.
the amps does'nt matter on that thermal fuse, just as long its got enough or more than the motor needs, there's other measured to protect the entire thing from over current. also, you can solder flow the enamel off and then crimp the wire onto the fuse, extra safe.
Aside from the 120V/240V miss, I question the manufacturer decision to connect the thermal fuse so they disable the fans rather than the heating elements.. While in a thermal fail state, surely you'd want the heat input to stop as primary before worrying about where it's going?
BTW, what was the loose part (screw?) that was rattling around inside?
BTW air fryers work faster than standard ovens mostly because of the extremely enclosed space(s) they have to work with, along with controlled/ducted airflow. If you simply reduced a standard fan oven's cavity (or increased an air fryer's), you'd get pretty much the same performance from either IMO
I would expect thermal protection on both.
A thermal fuse is exactly as you said, as long as the current rating is => than the original it is fine. It is the temperature of the device that is critical.
MyMateVince is some kind of wizard.
I'll bet his full name is Vince Gandalf😊
😂
Our mate Vince is not complaining about economist community having taken over the whole planet earth 🌍
😁👍🏻
On amps question have to factor in the enameled wire size cause too many amps could burn enameled wire up
Not possible. The windings on the motors will present a fixed impedance at the rated voltage of the unit therefore they cannot draw enough current to burn up.
The amp rating on a thermal fuse is like the volts rating on a capacitor. Equal or higher is fine. The amp rating isn't the point, the temperature rating is what matters.
Box says it has 3 year warranty? why did the original owner not return it?
I'm wondering if these are returns that make their way back onto the market via the recyclers. So the original owner has got the replacement or a refund and the faulty items are sold via pallets of broken goods or sent away to be recycled and the resellable stuff makes it way onto eBay???