I'm a big fan of Ortho Plus, I personally like shooting it behind a green filter in the winter and an urban environment. I've never shot the new stuff in 4x5, but have in the past shot the Ortho Copy Plus in large format. Excellent work!
I think ilford still classes the new Ortho Plus as a copy film. Maybe they just rebranded the old one to make it more commercially attractive to a wider audience, but I have no idea if that is true. I should maybe give the film another go with a green filter
That really did look over exposed. All the other demos I have seen of this film were much darker and richer. The mids in yours looked almost faded. Perhaps something in the development.
Hi, thanks for your comment. I do indeed scan my own negatives. I may do a video in the future, as there's no real quick and easy way to explain, as there are several processes/stages. However I do use an Epson with Silverfast. There is a guy called Nick Carver who also uses a flatbed with silverfast is you're looking for videos to educate yourself with. Good luck.
Hi Florian. The rucksack is made by F-Stop, but they don't make that one in particular anymore. However it has a removable internal compartment which F-Stop call an ICU. The ICU I have is a large pro, so if you just find a rucksack that fits that size, then you should be fine. I hope that helps.
Nice photography, but I think the star of the show was the Ebony 4X5. Expensive stuff. Shadows are illuminated by the blue portion of the light spectrum. Orthochromatic film is highly sensitive to blue light, so there is no surprise that your shadows are well illuminated. Of course the exposure has to be correct in the first place.
Thanks! I use an old discontinued bag called the Satori with a large ICU. The bag is bigger than it needs and definitely want to get a smaller one as it's pretty heavy when going for long walks. Hope that helps.
Very pretty photographs! I've tried ortho film once and it was something> It's an acquired taste hahaha< Please continue making vids! Love to see more 4x5 shots from you. Speaking for myself, I preferably use 35mm and sometimes 120 rollfilm but large format definitely has an interesting spot it the future. Maybe in a couple of years... Hahahaha
Thanks very much. Unfortunately my computer died on me shortly after this video. So have to wait a few months before anything comes back in stock because of the massive shortage of parts. Hope to have more video up once I have a replacement.
Eye-ESS-OH 80 isn't SLOW at all for an orthochromatic film child! ASA 6 Defender was SLOW and used with a Deep Yellow Wratten #13 Filter the effective ASA of 1/2 in Clear Daylight (according to the late Ansel Adams in "The Negative" ) @ f 64 THAT was SLOW! Ansco Hypan Panchromatic was ASA 50 and my Father, elder sister, brother-in-law and I used it for weddings with flash bulbs over half-Century ago with 4x5 Crown Graphics every Friday night and Saturday and that wasn't a "slow" film at all! A #8 or preferably a #11 yellow filter should be GLUED to your lens outdoors due to excessive blue sensitivity of ortho films "blowing out" skies, even on cloudy days. When you print your negs, you'll thank me! The ultra-fine grain of ortho films allows developing to extreme contrast without extreme grain too. A key to keep in your bag of tricks. Conversely, extreme "contractions" or over-exposures and under-developments to control extreme contrast lighting situations can be handled by ortho films better too, due to flare control on the film emulsion and film coating.
Mr Eap you are a 100 % right. My slow (standard) film in the Fifties was the ORWO NP 10, a 10 ISO negative panchromatic AGFA film made in DDR. Today's pixel peeping young generation can not get no statisfactio by making digital photoos. They go analogue, have zero kow how, Have no darkroom, cannot develop nor print. They buy an old Hasselblad or an old Speed Graphic with one lens; a 80 mm or a 150 mm Because they have a hand held spotmeter eveybody is thinking they are the new analogue Photo Gurus.
EXACTLY! A view camera LENS can move film development by TWO GRADES of paper EASILY! A Tele-Nikkor convertible with only the rear elements being used lose a grade and a half of contrast in my 54 years of darkroom experience printing the images from them! I sold my Tele-Nikkors last Century and replaced them with Apo-Geronars for that reason.
An eighty ISO film is a 20 DIN or a 80 ASA , so a medium speed A 80 ISO is 1/3 EV slower than 100 ISO. Films of 80 ISO can be exposed all day nd all of the night with cceptable short exposure times. Why do you think your otho film looks overexposed. You shpuld have used a pachromatic film as a back up / refeence.
Really enjoyed this video and your photography.
Thanks very much
I'm a big fan of Ortho Plus, I personally like shooting it behind a green filter in the winter and an urban environment. I've never shot the new stuff in 4x5, but have in the past shot the Ortho Copy Plus in large format. Excellent work!
I think ilford still classes the new Ortho Plus as a copy film. Maybe they just rebranded the old one to make it more commercially attractive to a wider audience, but I have no idea if that is true. I should maybe give the film another go with a green filter
That really did look over exposed. All the other demos I have seen of this film were much darker and richer. The mids in yours looked almost faded. Perhaps something in the development.
Enjoy your informative video. Do you scan your own negatives, if so please explain your process. Thank you.
Hi, thanks for your comment. I do indeed scan my own negatives. I may do a video in the future, as there's no real quick and easy way to explain, as there are several processes/stages. However I do use an Epson with Silverfast. There is a guy called Nick Carver who also uses a flatbed with silverfast is you're looking for videos to educate yourself with. Good luck.
thx, an interesting video. as i am just lloking for a big camerabackpack for large format, could u give a hint what your faboulus blue one is?
Hi Florian. The rucksack is made by F-Stop, but they don't make that one in particular anymore. However it has a removable internal compartment which F-Stop call an ICU. The ICU I have is a large pro, so if you just find a rucksack that fits that size, then you should be fine. I hope that helps.
@@NickSmithPhoto thank you so much, i will look into that
Nice photography, but I think the star of the show was the Ebony 4X5. Expensive stuff. Shadows are illuminated by the blue portion of the light spectrum. Orthochromatic film is highly sensitive to blue light, so there is no surprise that your shadows are well illuminated. Of course the exposure has to be correct in the first place.
This was Ebony’s entry basic camera, so not as expensive as you’d think, probably cheaper than a lot of digital cameras nowadays.
@@NickSmithPhoto Very crisp images. Too bad that the Ebony camera is no longer produced. A real treasure.
Haven't shot it yet but I do like the contrast look you have here. So maybe I should :)
Yeah you should give it a go. Good luck
Wow, that Ebony is simply stunning! Which F-Stop Bag and ICU are you using? Nice video!
Thanks! I use an old discontinued bag called the Satori with a large ICU. The bag is bigger than it needs and definitely want to get a smaller one as it's pretty heavy when going for long walks. Hope that helps.
Very pretty photographs! I've tried ortho film once and it was something> It's an acquired taste hahaha< Please continue making vids! Love to see more 4x5 shots from you. Speaking for myself, I preferably use 35mm and sometimes 120 rollfilm but large format definitely has an interesting spot it the future. Maybe in a couple of years... Hahahaha
Thanks very much. Unfortunately my computer died on me shortly after this video. So have to wait a few months before anything comes back in stock because of the massive shortage of parts. Hope to have more video up once I have a replacement.
Eye-ESS-OH 80 isn't SLOW at all for an orthochromatic film child! ASA 6 Defender was SLOW and used with a Deep Yellow Wratten #13 Filter the effective ASA of 1/2 in Clear Daylight (according to the late Ansel Adams in "The Negative" ) @ f 64 THAT was SLOW! Ansco Hypan Panchromatic was ASA 50 and my Father, elder sister, brother-in-law and I used it for weddings with flash bulbs over half-Century ago with 4x5 Crown Graphics every Friday night and Saturday and that wasn't a "slow" film at all! A #8 or preferably a #11 yellow filter should be GLUED to your lens outdoors due to excessive blue sensitivity of ortho films "blowing out" skies, even on cloudy days. When you print your negs, you'll thank me! The ultra-fine grain of ortho films allows developing to extreme contrast without extreme grain too. A key to keep in your bag of tricks. Conversely, extreme "contractions" or over-exposures and under-developments to control extreme contrast lighting situations can be handled by ortho films better too, due to flare control on the film emulsion and film coating.
Mr Eap you are a 100 % right.
My slow (standard) film in the Fifties was the ORWO NP 10,
a 10 ISO negative panchromatic AGFA film made in DDR.
Today's pixel peeping young generation can not get no
statisfactio by making digital photoos.
They go analogue, have zero kow how,
Have no darkroom, cannot develop nor print.
They buy an old Hasselblad or an old Speed Graphic
with one lens; a 80 mm or a 150 mm
Because they have a hand held spotmeter eveybody
is thinking they are the new analogue Photo Gurus.
Back in the day ASA 64 was the standard "normal" speed. I loved Kodachrome 64 and 25. Felt like a kid in a candy store when 200 came out.
Please let me known what kind of developer you use? Best regards from ARGENTINA
Hi, I used Ilford DDX
Use RODINAL / ADONAL made in Germany since 1891
A soup for all seasons.
A lot of Gemans live in Argentina.
Good Luck / Viel Spass
@@NickSmithPhoto
An ortho film is BLIND for the coloud red.
A half tone ortho film has a normal contrst ( a normal gamma )
like a halftone panchromatic film.
If you find it too contrasty, why not simply shorten the development time?
EXACTLY! A view camera LENS can move film development by TWO GRADES of paper EASILY! A Tele-Nikkor convertible with only the rear elements being used lose a grade and a half of contrast in my 54 years of darkroom experience printing the images from them! I sold my Tele-Nikkors last Century and replaced them with Apo-Geronars for that reason.
? ? ? ? ? ?
! ! ! ! ! !
An eighty ISO film is a 20 DIN or a 80 ASA , so a medium speed
A 80 ISO is 1/3 EV slower than 100 ISO.
Films of 80 ISO can be exposed all day nd all of the night with
cceptable short exposure times.
Why do you think your otho film looks overexposed.
You shpuld have used a pachromatic film as a back up / refeence.