Best ortho review - glad you commented on the print & grain. First roll shot in the Lake District and definitely a few keepers! I also shot at sunset - I think best for keeping within the dynamic range bracket
I’m getting ready to shoot some of this film in Badlands National Park in South Dakota. I really appreciate your comments on the film and it’s helping tailor how I’ll approach shooting it.
Some really good images. What you have to remember is that this film is a proper Ortho. If you look at its spectral sensitivity curve, it is sensitive to near UV, Violet, Blue, Green and to some extent Yellow Green. The film does not see the Orange or red Portion of the spectrum. What it records very much depends on how the subject was illuminated. Blue/Cyan skies will be rendered white, Green and Yellow Green will be recorded well , Shadows will be recorded well since they are illuminated by the Blue portion of light. Sand dunes will depend on the time of the day , at mid day they will be very bright, at dawn or dusk they will be dark. It is also a brilliant emulsion for portrait and artistic nude photography probably using something like a proper Pyro developer. How to use filters with this film is not an easy task and TBH I don't know if one could really use traditional colour filters with this emulsion successfully . Thanks for your very well presented review.
Thank you and thanks for the information! I understand now why the sand dunes are dark at this time of day. I did wonder what an orange or warming filter might do to this film.
From an onlookers standpoint - the 'dune photo's look outstanding' From a photographer and technical standpoint - 'the images are strange' With that said, there's a very well known phenomenon, in-where a photographer can find himself obsessing with technical details that are completely irrelevant to onlookers - unless of course, he or she is shooting to impress other photographers ;)
I'm stumped by your comment on the short dynamic range. I develop mine in Adox FX-39 1:9 in a JOBO, and find a range (as measured by my spot meter) of between 8 and 9 stops. Could your processor be using an inappropriate developer?
My thoughts exactly, just done my 3rd and one of these in a Hasselblad was a zone test, Rodianl R09 one shot at 1+50 for 15 minutes gives a longgggg tonal range
Hi, interesting insight of the film! Could you tell me what brand type of backpack you used in that trip visible in the video? I have a big tripod and usually carry two bags which is annoying. Thanks
iNerdier from looking at the data sheet and with my experiences shooting with it so far, it appears so. I am interested in any feedback from yourself or others if possible.
The spec sheet provides 3 different examples of characteristic curves with different developers that yield more/less range, so I’m curious which dev. did you use, nevertheless these images seem to match the scene’s dyn. range pretty well
One thing I see throughout this video is you mistaking color values for luminosity values. Less sensitivity to reds does not mean less sensitivity to brightness. I have tested this film myself and I have to completely disagree with your take on the dynamic range. I get between 8 and 9 stops when using this film. Developer matters! You really need to start developing your own black and white. Labs do mostly color so they only do black and white at certain times. They also tend to use the black and white developer longer than they should, increasing times to make up for weaker developer. Also they tend to use cheaper chems. This combination means more contrast than you would expect as well as much more grain than you would expect. Half of the art of shooting black and white film is in the developing.
Best ortho review - glad you commented on the print & grain.
First roll shot in the Lake District and definitely a few keepers!
I also shot at sunset - I think best for keeping within the dynamic range bracket
MrJenco2 thanks for watching. If possible, it will be awesome to see your images somehow.
Stephen Milner I’ll find your IG and show you some examples
Stephen Milner see what you think - with you now
MrJenco2 nice photos
I’m getting ready to shoot some of this film in Badlands National Park in South Dakota. I really appreciate your comments on the film and it’s helping tailor how I’ll approach shooting it.
Use a light meter and treat it like slide film
Best Ortho review yet, thank you.
Marc Meeks thanks for watching, I’m glad you liked it.
Some really good images. What you have to remember is that this film is a proper Ortho. If you look at its spectral sensitivity curve, it is sensitive to near UV, Violet, Blue, Green and to some extent Yellow Green. The film does not see the Orange or red Portion of the spectrum. What it records very much depends on how the subject was illuminated. Blue/Cyan skies will be rendered white, Green and Yellow Green will be recorded well , Shadows will be recorded well since they are illuminated by the Blue portion of light. Sand dunes will depend on the time of the day , at mid day they will be very bright, at dawn or dusk they will be dark. It is also a brilliant emulsion for portrait and artistic nude photography probably using something like a proper Pyro developer. How to use filters with this film is not an easy task and TBH I don't know if one could really use traditional colour filters with this emulsion successfully . Thanks for your very well presented review.
Thank you and thanks for the information! I understand now why the sand dunes are dark at this time of day. I did wonder what an orange or warming filter might do to this film.
By the way, it's called (Latitude), on film, D Range is a digital term.
It means the same thing
Well done. Been interested in trying this film. just ordered 2 rolls. Thanks.
Good luck
From an onlookers standpoint - the 'dune photo's look outstanding'
From a photographer and technical standpoint - 'the images are strange'
With that said, there's a very well known phenomenon, in-where a photographer can find himself obsessing with technical details that are completely irrelevant to onlookers - unless of course, he or she is shooting to impress other photographers ;)
Hey, Stephen, thank you for the video, I bought a couple of rolls of this film but didn't shoot a single frame yet, being in search for ideas
I’d like to try this film for coastal long exposures at sunset and sunrise...
I'm stumped by your comment on the short dynamic range. I develop mine in Adox FX-39 1:9 in a JOBO, and find a range (as measured by my spot meter) of between 8 and 9 stops. Could your processor be using an inappropriate developer?
That’s interesting... I get my film developed by my local lab. I am not sure what chemical they use but its a dip and dunk process...
My thoughts exactly, just done my 3rd and one of these in a Hasselblad was a zone test, Rodianl R09 one shot at 1+50 for 15 minutes gives a longgggg tonal range
When you shot the sand dunes, how did you meter? And did you use a light blue filter to excentuate the ortho's effect of darkening yellows/oranges?
Made this video a long time ago. Can’t remember the light meter settings. Didn’t use a filter ✌️
Hi, interesting insight of the film!
Could you tell me what brand type of backpack you used in that trip visible in the video? I have a big tripod and usually carry two bags which is annoying. Thanks
Paolo Saccheri thanks for watching. It is the F-stop Tilopa.
Question chief, did you consider the Mamiya 6? I noticed you like the square format.
I have the Mamiya 6 now and really enjoying it...
@@StephenMilner Great to hear, I've got one on the way!
Nice, congrats
Nice images ¡¡¡ NEXT AcrosII.
Mauricio Alchundia Segovia Thanks for watching. I’ll order some Acros II
Some nice images there but you must process B&W film yourself to regain control.
mamiyapress thanks. I’m struggling with time at the minute but it is on my list of things to do.
I think grain adds to an image . Images are lovely who really cares about grain otherwise I’d just shoot digital all the time.
2:20 2 stop dynamic range? That's terrible!
iNerdier from looking at the data sheet and with my experiences shooting with it so far, it appears so. I am interested in any feedback from yourself or others if possible.
The spec sheet provides 3 different examples of characteristic curves with different developers that yield more/less range, so I’m curious which dev. did you use, nevertheless these images seem to match the scene’s dyn. range pretty well
One thing I see throughout this video is you mistaking color values for luminosity values. Less sensitivity to reds does not mean less sensitivity to brightness. I have tested this film myself and I have to completely disagree with your take on the dynamic range. I get between 8 and 9 stops when using this film. Developer matters! You really need to start developing your own black and white. Labs do mostly color so they only do black and white at certain times. They also tend to use the black and white developer longer than they should, increasing times to make up for weaker developer. Also they tend to use cheaper chems. This combination means more contrast than you would expect as well as much more grain than you would expect. Half of the art of shooting black and white film is in the developing.
Thanks for providing an insight to your experience 😀