Great explanation. 2 tips for beginners with the airbrush for carkits. Get some plastic spoons to try to see how the color comes out over the thinner,they are good also for triggercontrol pratice,Plastic bottles will works also good,specialy empty dishwasher fuild or bleach bottle. They got a bit rougher structure,you can see then how you get with primer a flat and even surface,on this way you can work away small scratches from sandpaper or the scriber. 2 For deep cleaning the nozzle 1 use a empty Tamiya 10 ml bottle 50% of Cheap laquer thinner,and leave that overnight. Then the nozzle is clean and ready for use. The needle i put in a Vallejo bottle 75%full with Cheap laquer thinner. Put the needle in the bottle alomost to the bottom.With a crocodile clip on the top It will clean itself overnight. Just make sure the bottle is standing firm in a 17Ml tamiya bottle or use 2 side tape!!
What I love about your videos, is how you're so relatable to the average modeller. Your skill and experience produce incredible models, but you explain and work in a way that makes your work so relatable, and doesn't intimidate the average modeller by over complicating things like a lot of YT'ers who say "Oh you must have X paint at X ratio and use an X airbrush and X blades and X brushes and spray at X distance and paint THIS way and and and ..... " Can't wait till the next video! :D
Hi Jun, great explanation for learners to airbrushing. Like you, I do not consider myself an expert at them. I have built many 1/12 motorcycles. I first started with the cheaper $20 airbrush and they were sort of great at first. Then after some time when I thought I was getting used to them, I often found mistakes in my paint( your suggestion of having a covered box for drying was great). I did buy one day an Iwata Neo and found my paintwork elevated without any real trying. I have since bought another 4 or 5 Iwata Airbrushes, the Revolution range and an Eclipse. I must say, even though the Eclipse is a mid range pricy AB, it is sooo nice to work with(it's my workhorse). The Revolution range I have also cover down to the small size needles. So different brush for different jobs. I don't go so much for colour groups but that is just a personal preferance. The misting and paint flow is just leaps and bounds ahead of the $20 airbrushes from Amazon or Ebay. For anyone doing airbrushing, when you think you really like the hobby, do yourself a favour and buy an expensive AB - $200-300 worth
Great tips! My tip: start with a cheap model. I began with a tamiya ducati 916. Learned a lot during the build, how to use the airbrush, how to use putty and testing different ways how to thin the colors. The complete build was not so fine like i wish so i bought the same model again and build it a second time. Take more time for the build and it was better than the first one.
Great video ! I had a stroke almost 6 years ago and my doc said to get a hobby so i am now building models . Started using an airbrush but my hand got so very tired ..until I found a trigger style ! I am now using all the knowledge I get from you tube to help me get better !! thank you sir !
Just watched the whole series (so far hopefully next one comes out soon!) as I just got my first model car yesterday very helpful even just to get a rough idea of what to do and go from there still waiting on some supplies but patience is important in this activity! (If anyone’s interested the car I got was a heller 1/24 Subaru Impreza WRC ‘03 Cyprus I was a little unsure at first as I hadn’t heard all too much about that brand but it ended up being just what I wanted very much look forward to building and one day displaying such an awesome car 😁)
Thanks for making this I’ve been putting off my kits for ages because of the learning curve with the airbrush this should help with that a lot. Looking forward to more vids :)
I hope that you didn’t forget about this series! After watching your videos for a year or so I finally ordered my first car model kit and am going to head to my local hobby store for equipment.
Good move on ordering your first kit! Hope I was able to offer some helps with these videos. And no I didn’t forget about this series. It will continue on.👍
Thank you for the video I was literally looking for this topic yesterday. Happened to be subscribed to your channel and just started getting back into modeling. Funny timing thank you, great video.
I still have not used the airbrush I bought, but will soon. There is another TH-cam channel you might enjoy, called Barbatos Rex. Mr. Rex is expert with an airbrush and virtually any kind of paint, and I aspire to be even half as good as he is some day. But I appreciate your videos very much, and am glad you also like Tamiya paints which are my favorite.
I just purchased a bunch of bits and bobs and a Tamiya Z32 kit just from watching these videos. Thank you so much for making these - I may even post my model build on YT as well, though I'm sure it'll never be as great as these! (Your videos are also getting progressively funnier lol)
Late to the party. You are by far my favorite TH-cam car model builder. Everything ive seen from you is just so clean. I just watched your video of the blue R34 earlier today, lol. Keep up the excellent work, bud!! I use a timbertech airbrush and compressor combo with a 3L tank. Its my first one and it runs like a champ
Tamiya acrylic: some people mention success using Mr Color Levelling Thinner for use with Tamiya acrylic. Perhaps it is my poor technique but I have found that the Tamiya acrylic remains "soft" when using Mr Color thinner. The paint doesn't harden up like an enamel. I am now using X-20A and see how that goes.
One thing I have experienced is that Tamiya’s flat acrylic paint will cure and harden better than their gloss acrylic, their gloss acrylic paint remains soft even after weeks of curing time. So every time I need anything glossy I would turn to their lacquer line(TS spray cans) or MR color lacquer paint. Those paints will dry to a hard finish.
@@JunsMiniGarage many thanks, Guru! So it was not just me? The other day, after spraying, I lightly touched the model and it felt dry. I donned cotton gloves and proceeded to remove masking tape and found that the gloves had left marks which could only be removed by sanding. Thanks for your help.
The compressor came with the pointzero airbrush kit. It doesn’t have a reservoir tank to store air so it will kick in whenever you hold down airbrush trigger. Air pressure seems to be consistent and stable despite long painting sessions(it will get hot). The highest pressure I had set it to was 60psi. It might be able to go higher but I don’t wanna kill it.😂
Hello i am back in scale model and i dont know if I can apply varnish on my clear parts or if I have to glue my clear parts after a varnish coat. Thanks for this very begginer friendly video series
You could apply future gloss polish to clear parts before gluing them on the car. It will make it look more transparent and glass like. Or you can polish it with polish compound to achieve similar result. 👍
I would recommend using model lacquer paint for car body especially when you are looking to wetsand and polish it in the final stage. Lacquer is also tougher and more “scratch resistant” than acrylic paints. Water based paint is good if you are looking to create a damaged, abandoned or fully weathered look for your project which you aren’t planning to polish it to a mirror like finish. If you build tanks, armors and fighter jets then water based paints are perfect. 👍
Hello and thank you very much! There are things I would keep in mind while using a hair dryer or heat gun to speed up drying time, one is that if the body has masking tapes on it(for example if the car is getting a two tone paint job), then I wouldn’t wanna use any heat sources because when it warms up the car it will soften the paint slightly and create marks from the masking tapes. And it will require additional sanding and polishing to remove those marks. Number two is that although warming it up speeds things up, you might wanna let the paint/thinner dry naturally and evenly because the thinner has the capability of self leveling. And heating it up might increase the possibility of having orange peels effect because the paint is “forced” to dry more quickly before it has time to self level. I would mostly use hairdryer for parts that don’t require smooth surfaces.(interior, chassis). Thank you for the questions and I hope my answers are helpful to you. Happy building!👍
I keep coming to this series of first scale model. I got four questions: 1. Body: after base color is done and has visible flaws, do you wet sand it before clear coat? 2. Clear coat: for Tamiya X-22 is 1:3 mixing ratio (paint/thinner) good idea? You've put those numbers in video, but im not sure if that was for acrylic paints 3. Mixing: If I used Mr Color Leveling Thinner for base coat of acrylic paint, is it ok to use the same thinner for acrylic clear coat (mentioned X-22)? 4. Panel Lines: After clear coat done with Tamiya X-22 thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner, is it safe to clean excess of Panel Line Accent Color with thinner for enamel products (AK049 to be specific)? Thanks in advance
1-yes I do remove any debris and flaws with wet sanding before applying clear coats.(I will re-coat base color when necessary) 2-For model cars I would suggest using lacquer based clear paint(Tamiya’s TS13 spray can or Mr color Super clear III) Since they will cure to a hard finish. Acrylic clear paint(Tamiya’s X22)is too soft to be sanded and polished even after weeks of drying time. And yes the thinning ratio 1:3 means 1 part paint and 3 parts thinner. 3- Mr color leveling thinner will work with acrylic paint.(all Tamiya’s acrylic and lacquer based paint). Unless you are going too heavy over the acrylic base coat, you should be fine. 4-It is safe to use enamel based products over acrylic paint. However I would suggest using lacquer based clear paint(again) since it’s much tougher than acrylic. Hope I have answered your questions. And thank you for watching my videos. 🙏
@@JunsMiniGarage This is fantastic, detailed and on point response. Thanks for coming back to me, I really appreciate it. Im gonna apply your tips to my current build. See you later!
i have never understood why so many people say paint all your parts on the sprues. that makes no sense at all. there is so much work that needs to be done to each part before painting that can not be done with the part connected to the sprues unless you dont really care what your model looks like in the end.
It’s still working well after many years. I am surprised it has lasted this long. I would just buy the cheapest one out there and use that for as long as you can and build as many models as you can.👍
In my case I believe the most important part is buying a quality airbrush. Forget the cheap Amazon deals. For the price of a few kits ( $$$ ) buy a name brand airbrush ( IWATA...etc.. ) and the airbrush will help teach you verus a cheap one. You get what you pay for.
On the subject of Tamiya acrylic gloss and the curing time, if I want to add Tamiya gloss clear coat over the paint coats, what would be an ideal waiting time, do you think?
The cap is supposed to be air tight but sometimes the rubber seal isn’t sealing properly. Turning it basically is making sure the cap is sealing right and tight.
Great explanation. 2 tips for beginners with the airbrush for carkits. Get some plastic spoons to try to see how the color comes out over the thinner,they are good also for triggercontrol pratice,Plastic bottles will works also good,specialy empty dishwasher fuild or bleach bottle. They got a bit rougher structure,you can see then how you get with primer a flat and even surface,on this way you can work away small scratches from sandpaper or the scriber. 2 For deep cleaning the nozzle 1 use a empty Tamiya 10 ml bottle 50% of Cheap laquer thinner,and leave that overnight. Then the nozzle is clean and ready for use. The needle i put in a Vallejo bottle 75%full with Cheap laquer thinner. Put the needle in the bottle alomost to the bottom.With a crocodile clip on the top It will clean itself overnight. Just make sure the bottle is standing firm in a 17Ml tamiya bottle or use 2 side tape!!
Thank you so much for the great tips.🙏🙏
What I love about your videos, is how you're so relatable to the average modeller. Your skill and experience produce incredible models, but you explain and work in a way that makes your work so relatable, and doesn't intimidate the average modeller by over complicating things like a lot of YT'ers who say
"Oh you must have X paint at X ratio and use an X airbrush and X blades and X brushes and spray at X distance and paint THIS way and and and ..... "
Can't wait till the next video! :D
Very good explanation Jun, sometimes it’s hard to explain the basics but I think you did a good job.
Thank you so much James.
Hi Jun, great explanation for learners to airbrushing. Like you, I do not consider myself an expert at them.
I have built many 1/12 motorcycles. I first started with the cheaper $20 airbrush and they were sort of great at first. Then after some time when I thought I was getting used to them, I often found mistakes in my paint( your suggestion of having a covered box for drying was great).
I did buy one day an Iwata Neo and found my paintwork elevated without any real trying.
I have since bought another 4 or 5 Iwata Airbrushes, the Revolution range and an Eclipse.
I must say, even though the Eclipse is a mid range pricy AB, it is sooo nice to work with(it's my workhorse).
The Revolution range I have also cover down to the small size needles. So different brush for different jobs. I don't go so much for colour groups but that is just a personal preferance.
The misting and paint flow is just leaps and bounds ahead of the $20 airbrushes from Amazon or Ebay.
For anyone doing airbrushing, when you think you really like the hobby, do yourself a favour and buy an expensive AB - $200-300 worth
I only started airbrushing about a month ago, the lesson is very helpful. Thanks for sharing
Thank you. I am glad it’s helpful to ya.👍
Thanks for the help.
This help me alot.
Thank you so much 🙂👍
Thank you. I am glad it’s helpful to ya.👍
Another fantastic tutorial from you, so well explained and the questions + answers are great too. Well done 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you so much Karl.
Can I use the airbrush with acrylic paint for painting the whole body of the car, or is Lacker paint with airbrush better for bigger areas?
hiii just builded my first model, an italeri lambo, it came out a lot better than spected
Great! Keep building and you will get better and better at it.👍
A very interesting and helpful video. Pls more of this. All thumbs up. 👍
Great tips!
My tip: start with a cheap model. I began with a tamiya ducati 916. Learned a lot during the build, how to use the airbrush, how to use putty and testing different ways how to thin the colors.
The complete build was not so fine like i wish so i bought the same model again and build it a second time. Take more time for the build and it was better than the first one.
Great video ! I had a stroke almost 6 years ago and my doc said to get a hobby so i am now building models . Started using an airbrush but my hand got so very tired ..until I found a trigger style ! I am now using all the knowledge I get from you tube to help me get better !! thank you sir !
Why did the doctor recommend getting a hobby?
Just watched the whole series (so far hopefully next one comes out soon!) as I just got my first model car yesterday very helpful even just to get a rough idea of what to do and go from there still waiting on some supplies but patience is important in this activity!
(If anyone’s interested the car I got was a heller 1/24 Subaru Impreza WRC ‘03 Cyprus I was a little unsure at first as I hadn’t heard all too much about that brand but it ended up being just what I wanted very much look forward to building and one day displaying such an awesome car 😁)
Thanks for making this I’ve been putting off my kits for ages because of the learning curve with the airbrush this should help with that a lot. Looking forward to more vids :)
I hope that you didn’t forget about this series! After watching your videos for a year or so I finally ordered my first car model kit and am going to head to my local hobby store for equipment.
Good move on ordering your first kit! Hope I was able to offer some helps with these videos. And no I didn’t forget about this series. It will continue on.👍
Thank you for the video I was literally looking for this topic yesterday. Happened to be subscribed to your channel and just started getting back into modeling. Funny timing thank you, great video.
I still have not used the airbrush I bought, but will soon. There is another TH-cam channel you might enjoy, called Barbatos Rex. Mr. Rex is expert with an airbrush and virtually any kind of paint, and I aspire to be even half as good as he is some day. But I appreciate your videos very much, and am glad you also like Tamiya paints which are my favorite.
I just purchased a bunch of bits and bobs and a Tamiya Z32 kit just from watching these videos. Thank you so much for making these - I may even post my model build on YT as well, though I'm sure it'll never be as great as these!
(Your videos are also getting progressively funnier lol)
Waited a long time, nice video👍👍👍
We have been waiting!
Very good explanation 👍
this is one of the most helpful tutorials on this subject i've seen. thank you for taking the time to put it together the way you did!
Airbrushes are very expensive pricey but very helpful tools.
Thank you for this great video. You are a very good teacher for beginners like me.
Excellent Content!
Great video. Great information.
Thank you Rick.
Late to the party. You are by far my favorite TH-cam car model builder. Everything ive seen from you is just so clean. I just watched your video of the blue R34 earlier today, lol. Keep up the excellent work, bud!! I use a timbertech airbrush and compressor combo with a 3L tank. Its my first one and it runs like a champ
Thank-you for sharing your knowledge.
A well thought out video, Thankyou for that !! 😎👍
Thank you Jun!
Tamiya acrylic: some people mention success using Mr Color Levelling Thinner for use with Tamiya acrylic. Perhaps it is my poor technique but I have found that the Tamiya acrylic remains "soft" when using Mr Color thinner. The paint doesn't harden up like an enamel. I am now using X-20A and see how that goes.
One thing I have experienced is that Tamiya’s flat acrylic paint will cure and harden better than their gloss acrylic, their gloss acrylic paint remains soft even after weeks of curing time. So every time I need anything glossy I would turn to their lacquer line(TS spray cans) or MR color lacquer paint. Those paints will dry to a hard finish.
@@JunsMiniGarage many thanks, Guru! So it was not just me? The other day, after spraying, I lightly touched the model and it felt dry. I donned cotton gloves and proceeded to remove masking tape and found that the gloves had left marks which could only be removed by sanding.
Thanks for your help.
Thanks 👍
What kind and capacity is that little compressor
The compressor came with the pointzero airbrush kit. It doesn’t have a reservoir tank to store air so it will kick in whenever you hold down airbrush trigger. Air pressure seems to be consistent and stable despite long painting sessions(it will get hot). The highest pressure I had set it to was 60psi. It might be able to go higher but I don’t wanna kill it.😂
@@JunsMiniGarage thanks for the great info
Hello i am back in scale model and i dont know if I can apply varnish on my clear parts or if I have to glue my clear parts after a varnish coat. Thanks for this very begginer friendly video series
You could apply future gloss polish to clear parts before gluing them on the car. It will make it look more transparent and glass like. Or you can polish it with polish compound to achieve similar result. 👍
Do you recommend using water-based paints for the car body, for beginners? Like the ones for miniatures, Vallejo, Citadel, etc
I would recommend using model lacquer paint for car body especially when you are looking to wetsand and polish it in the final stage. Lacquer is also tougher and more “scratch resistant” than acrylic paints. Water based paint is good if you are looking to create a damaged, abandoned or fully weathered look for your project which you aren’t planning to polish it to a mirror like finish. If you build tanks, armors and fighter jets then water based paints are perfect. 👍
Hello! I appreciate these videos so much! Is there a downside to using a heat gun/hair dryer to speed up drying time between coats?
Hello and thank you very much! There are things I would keep in mind while using a hair dryer or heat gun to speed up drying time, one is that if the body has masking tapes on it(for example if the car is getting a two tone paint job), then I wouldn’t wanna use any heat sources because when it warms up the car it will soften the paint slightly and create marks from the masking tapes. And it will require additional sanding and polishing to remove those marks. Number two is that although warming it up speeds things up, you might wanna let the paint/thinner dry naturally and evenly because the thinner has the capability of self leveling. And heating it up might increase the possibility of having orange peels effect because the paint is “forced” to dry more quickly before it has time to self level. I would mostly use hairdryer for parts that don’t require smooth surfaces.(interior, chassis). Thank you for the questions and I hope my answers are helpful to you. Happy building!👍
I keep coming to this series of first scale model. I got four questions:
1. Body: after base color is done and has visible flaws, do you wet sand it before clear coat?
2. Clear coat: for Tamiya X-22 is 1:3 mixing ratio (paint/thinner) good idea? You've put those numbers in video, but im not sure if that was for acrylic paints
3. Mixing: If I used Mr Color Leveling Thinner for base coat of acrylic paint, is it ok to use the same thinner for acrylic clear coat (mentioned X-22)?
4. Panel Lines: After clear coat done with Tamiya X-22 thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner, is it safe to clean excess of Panel Line Accent Color with thinner for enamel products (AK049 to be specific)?
Thanks in advance
1-yes I do remove any debris and flaws with wet sanding before applying clear coats.(I will re-coat base color when necessary)
2-For model cars I would suggest using lacquer based clear paint(Tamiya’s TS13 spray can or Mr color Super clear III) Since they will cure to a hard finish. Acrylic clear paint(Tamiya’s X22)is too soft to be sanded and polished even after weeks of drying time. And yes the thinning ratio 1:3 means 1 part paint and 3 parts thinner.
3- Mr color leveling thinner will work with acrylic paint.(all Tamiya’s acrylic and lacquer based paint). Unless you are going too heavy over the acrylic base coat, you should be fine.
4-It is safe to use enamel based products over acrylic paint. However I would suggest using lacquer based clear paint(again) since it’s much tougher than acrylic.
Hope I have answered your questions. And thank you for watching my videos. 🙏
@@JunsMiniGarage This is fantastic, detailed and on point response. Thanks for coming back to me, I really appreciate it. Im gonna apply your tips to my current build. See you later!
i have never understood why so many people say paint all your parts on the sprues. that makes no sense at all. there is so much work that needs to be done to each part before painting that can not be done with the part connected to the sprues unless you dont really care what your model looks like in the end.
Amen! What's your break it off the sprue, there's going to be a spot that's not painted and all jagged...
Excellent video and channel thanks 🙏🏻
Do you have a list of tamiya paints that you use on basicly all car kits? I mean stuff that are used on basically all car kits, except the car body.
Does your airbrush compressor have any issues? I'm planning on buying something similar but I'm confused with the different types haha
It’s still working well after many years. I am surprised it has lasted this long. I would just buy the cheapest one out there and use that for as long as you can and build as many models as you can.👍
In my case I believe the most important part is buying a quality airbrush. Forget the cheap Amazon deals. For the price of a few kits ( $$$ ) buy a name brand airbrush ( IWATA...etc.. ) and the airbrush will help teach you verus a cheap one. You get what you pay for.
I’m commenting for the algorithm haha. Great video!
Thank you so much.🥺🥺
On the subject of Tamiya acrylic gloss and the curing time, if I want to add Tamiya gloss clear coat over the paint coats, what would be an ideal waiting time, do you think?
I usually wait 2 hours before applying gloss coat, that way the base coats were still tacky for the clear coats to stay on better.
@@JunsMiniGaragehow do I send a coffee?
I might have missed it but when spraying the color coats, do you inspect the finish each time and sand between coats if necessary? Thank you.
Yes, I inspected the coat for debris and dust between coats and removed them by sanding with water.
@@JunsMiniGarage thank you again.
Please also make Nissan skyline GT-R BNR32 with initial d version!
Can I use acrylic paint with an airbrush for the whole body of the car, or is it better to use lacquer paint for that ?
I would recommend lacquer paint, acrylic is not hard enough to handle constant touching and handling, it’s hard to polish too.
I might have asked before but what glue do you prefer to use on painted parts?
I use BSI super gold plus(super glue) for painted parts(and for clear parts). There will be a video in the series about glues soon.
@@JunsMiniGarage awesome, thanks for the info and future videos.
I noticed at 8:20 you were turning the airbrush nozzle. What does that do????
The cap is supposed to be air tight but sometimes the rubber seal isn’t sealing properly. Turning it basically is making sure the cap is sealing right and tight.
Where can i get 1:36 wheels?
first comment😁😁✌✌and first like
Just to let you know that I am furiously writing notes.
I dont have an airbrush of my own.
I ask myself why the hell the inventor of airbrush pistols have done it so fu.. uncomfortable for fingers.