yeah nice system aside from the mess, very interested to see when you get everything cleaned up. id wish i could come across an mini AT class in that form factor for some of my lose boards.
soaking the card in baking soda+water to neutralize any acidic residue from the mouse droppings is the way to go, then super scrub it down with windex, and then soap/water, followed by a dip in some 91% or higher alcohol to displace the water, and finally a hit with a hairdryer, which should take care of the rest. Ideally, you want the concentrated blue Dawn and a manual toothbrush you don't care about. It should clean right up. Solder won't look the best, that's for sure, but it'll just be surface oxidation and should still work just fine. I had a similar issue where I found one of my Gig switches got peed on in the garage before I moved and had to tear the entire thing down. it was absolutely disgusting and I had to bleach all the plastics. but, after doing the above and replacing a couple of capacitors that didn't look the healthiest even prior to the mouse incursion, it's been working flawlessly here at my desk for the past year and a half without giving me an issue. so yeah, you may need to replace some capacitors, but in all honesty the audio output caps should be replaced on those sound blaster cards anyway. whatever the capacitance value is plus a bump up in voltage a bit (i.e. 16v goes to 25v, 25v goes to 35v, etc.) and two 0.1uF bipolar film capacitors should be placed on the underside. Usually these are see-through or dark green dipped caps, and can be found in any junk power supply made within the last 15 years. While this isn't to Creative's spec, it definitely helps, if the work done to an Awe64 Value here is anything to go by.
Nice video! I thought the case was originally beige and spray painted black. If that is originally all black then it is quite unique since most Baby AT cases are beige. Even beige Baby AT cases especially with the LED lights are becoming rarer and quite expensive in the used market. Also Old AT style power supply are becoming rarer and branded ones like that Antec 250 may be worth the effort to check and if feasible, repair. The burnt connectors can be replaced using the cheap ATX to AT cable adapters available on online shopping sites.
Thank you, I have been slacking lately on my videos it's been one thing after another and I haven't been able to catch up. I will start looking for that connector If I still have that PSU. I also lost the drive cage to this case and I can't seem to find it 😖. I'm looking at videoing a different system soon from a big store the has since closed then I would like to do part 2 of this video. thanks again for the input sorry for not responding sooner.
yeah nice system aside from the mess, very interested to see when you get everything cleaned up.
id wish i could come across an mini AT class in that form factor for some of my lose boards.
soaking the card in baking soda+water to neutralize any acidic residue from the mouse droppings is the way to go, then super scrub it down with windex, and then soap/water, followed by a dip in some 91% or higher alcohol to displace the water, and finally a hit with a hairdryer, which should take care of the rest. Ideally, you want the concentrated blue Dawn and a manual toothbrush you don't care about. It should clean right up. Solder won't look the best, that's for sure, but it'll just be surface oxidation and should still work just fine. I had a similar issue where I found one of my Gig switches got peed on in the garage before I moved and had to tear the entire thing down. it was absolutely disgusting and I had to bleach all the plastics. but, after doing the above and replacing a couple of capacitors that didn't look the healthiest even prior to the mouse incursion, it's been working flawlessly here at my desk for the past year and a half without giving me an issue.
so yeah, you may need to replace some capacitors, but in all honesty the audio output caps should be replaced on those sound blaster cards anyway. whatever the capacitance value is plus a bump up in voltage a bit (i.e. 16v goes to 25v, 25v goes to 35v, etc.) and two 0.1uF bipolar film capacitors should be placed on the underside. Usually these are see-through or dark green dipped caps, and can be found in any junk power supply made within the last 15 years. While this isn't to Creative's spec, it definitely helps, if the work done to an Awe64 Value here is anything to go by.
Nice video! I thought the case was originally beige and spray painted black. If that is originally all black then it is quite unique since most Baby AT cases are beige. Even beige Baby AT cases especially with the LED lights are becoming rarer and quite expensive in the used market.
Also Old AT style power supply are becoming rarer and branded ones like that Antec 250 may be worth the effort to check and if feasible, repair. The burnt connectors can be replaced using the cheap ATX to AT cable adapters available on online shopping sites.
Thank you, I have been slacking lately on my videos it's been one thing after another and I haven't been able to catch up.
I will start looking for that connector If I still have that PSU. I also lost the drive cage to this case and I can't seem to find it 😖.
I'm looking at videoing a different system soon from a big store the has since closed then I would like to do part 2 of this video.
thanks again for the input sorry for not responding sooner.