Nice work! I'd have countersunk the mid and woofer as well, to get a flush front, doubling up the front board if neccessary to have enough thickness to set the screws. Also, I don't like the protruded cable terminals on the back too much. None of that has and influence on sound, so it may just be my OCD talking.
I'm waiting to hear back from the Hivi company. I need to be sure the dome midrange is still available before making plans available. I'll post an update in the community tab when they get back to me.
i am diy my speaker cabinet build in progress, slowly mutating. next step i am going to make a equilateral triangle prism with equal sides of half meter from a sliding self lubricant plastic similar to teflon and nylon called delrin, at 4 mm thickness and bought more drivers, 18 in total. i never liked the idea of separation between 2 worlds 1 the boring flat frequency response of mixing/ mastering and 2 i am also a consumer who wants to enjoy watching stereo movies, youtubes etc. i might incorporate switches to turn on/off certain drivers for different moods. in my attick my experience is the entire room it sounds better if i add drivers facing also the opposite direction instead of just the sweet spot equilateral triangle speaker positioning. now it's going to be the speaker itself who is going to be the equilateral triangle. if i want more of a audiophile then i will engage the tang band, if i want more bass i would use the B&W drivers. etc. i used to collect drivers from tv's thrown near the garbage. i got 200, then kept 30 best ones, and the 2 top ones adds a clarity and realism that B&W never achieved. music is music, i don't like the differenciation between the worlds of musicians and consumers because i am both. in the past i used any box, specially from wine, cheese and jamón, where those boxes has a sliding opener and i used that as open back cabinet with adjustable mechanical Q. as it opens it delivers more treble. i don't like MDF and chipboard at furniture. it is sign of cheap poor house. and the B&W yellow kevlar speakers are those pseudo woods, which are essentially excessive glue and dust of wood. smelly when opening. you are responsible if the objects of your house smells or not. so gradually i've been swapping to pine the chipboards from my parents house. and i cannot accept speaker boxes made of chipboard. hence the reconversion. and it is expensive plastic 290 euros. and the tang band 301, and ribbon twitters 70, and 2 pairs of B&W 600euros and then a smaller tang band, then i bought its almost matching pair from the similar subwoofer that i found on the street. total thousand euros, and the cherry on top is the twist of realism that gives the favourite from tv, and that one was for free, ironicly.
Please note that schedule 40 2" PVC pipe has an ID of 2.067 which results in an area of 3.36 in sq, which is larger than using a nominal 2" ID calculation. Always shoot for accuracy
@@mikerick6955 - Most DIY'ers are fanatical about using accurate calculations and using the nominal 2" as the diameter arrives at an 11% miscalculation. To me an 11% error is intolerable. I spent 15 months on an M60 main battle tank and everything above 12khz is a mystery to me, BUT, I still perform the most accurate calculations possible and always attempt to arrive at a full range solution with a decent tweeter.
How did you do time align drivers in crossover?? Midrange is like 1" I front of the other?? Did you measure phase response? I learned that never have reflexport close to a wall. Always leave space around it. So it can breath.
Time alignment isn't really an issue there. An inch would result in a 0.07 ms delay i.e. not audible. Any phase issues would come from the crossover but from what I can tell there's no issue. The thing about ports is generally true; they're definitely too close to the walls here as they're completely blocked off (essentially creating leaky closed boxes). You can get away with having them 𝘤𝘭𝘰𝘴𝘦 to a wall as long as you design them with that intention and that goes for all types of boxes.
Excellent work!👏 i only have a slight criticism of the lacquer painting technique, use the spraygun at a fixed distance as you spray (robotic movement) ,there is no need to make a circular movement that changes the distance and thus the amount of material coming out so the result will be much better😁
I've loved watching your builds. I've been planning on building a higher-quality copy of the Wharfedale Lintons. 3-way with 8" woofer, 5" mid, tweeter. Using hardwood box or hardwood plywood for box. May use MDF for front panel. I'm considering using Datyton Reference series 8 ohm for woofer and mid. Also might use Dayton crossovers. Unsure about which tweeter. I would appreciate any feedback, and maybe this is a speaker you might consider building?
The Wharfedales would be a great speaker to take inspiration from. Dayton Reference Series are great value, and great sounding drivers. Using hardwood or mdf is really up to you. Some hardwoods can be great for speaker cabinets, other not. Just do your research. The most important thing you mentioned is the crossover. A pre-built xover will take the nice drivers, and turn them into something you don't want. If you have the budget, a measurement microphone is would be most useful. If you can't afford one, maybe you have a friend with one. Crossover design relies on having measurements from a microphone, taken from the speakers in the box they will live in. Without this, it is a total guess what will happen when using a pre-built xover. I hope this helps. Please ask more questions if you have them.
"Was not compensated for this video" Yet you got a free 3 way setup, 6 drivers, which do have monetary value. Aside from that, wonderful video, and beautiful work on the speakers.
That's a fair criticism. I could think of a better way to word that. I'm always transparent that things were sent to me, but want to be clear that I'm not being paid to create a video, or say anything nice about them. They get no pre approval of my content. I'll work on how to talk about it more clearly. Appreciate the watch!
Without DSP it can be tough to do sealed drivers. Lower efficiency, and higher roll off without EQ. There are benefits, but mist people are looking for lower F3s these days
I don't remember exactly what I used here, but either hot-glue, or a type of super glue. It's admittedly risky if you need to pull the xover back out. More safe play is to use velcro strips on both board & cabinet for easy removal.
I'm a little surprised that these studio monitors are so approachable. Most people who go out of their way to build a set of studio monitors will also use 3-way integrated amplifiers with DSP correction for absolute in-room linear neutral response. The SEAS KingRo4y mk.III DIY studio monitors call for this kind of setup, which makes them quite expensive to build. Seems like the sound quality is worth it, based on the reviews I've seen, but it's still a steep price increase.
@@DIYhyfy DSP correction combined with durable drivers, powerful amplification, and a suitably rigid cabinet are really the only effective means to cheat the rule that there is no replacement for displacement. Combine all of those things and you can get much more powerful bass response out of a speaker than it should really be capable of through conventional means. But the kind of design you used is far better for the average person considering a set of DIY studio monitors, since the barrier to entry is significantly reduced by the conventional speaker design. Fairly simple crossover, standard amplifier requirements, and the drivers aren't even unreasonably priced. I think the only thing I'd bother investigating an alternative to is to find some appropriately sized flared ports to reduce chuffing at high excursion on the woofer. Any other changes would either increase the cost too dramatically or would inherently modify the sound signature (like using a mid-woofer and tweeter with better extension so you can use a dedicated subwoofer driver for the woofer instead of a conventional woofer that just happens to have acceptable low end extension). This is to say that your design looks very good for the intended purpose and audience, so there's little room to improve it without detriment to one or more aspects.
It looks like one woofer speaker suffered a damaged surround in transit. It will have higher harmonic distortion during operation than an unspoiled unit due to asymmetric Kms, and may even present uneven compliance from side to side, resulting in coil rocking if the woofers ever really get hopping. You'll want to replace this unit to get consistent performance and the best longevity from the speaker.
I would definitely agree for the long term. I did also do a listening test in free air to listen for coil rub. Ironically it was the protective cover that slipped sideways and was pressed against the surround for some time.
10 seconds into the video and all i think is: fine looking speakers, but those first reflections and resoances from the table will destroy all your efforts.
Bet those would sound good with a passive radiator on the back fully sealed a la ESS.
A from the ground up speaker build video. Great job!!!!
Nice work!
I'd have countersunk the mid and woofer as well, to get a flush front, doubling up the front board if neccessary to have enough thickness to set the screws.
Also, I don't like the protruded cable terminals on the back too much.
None of that has and influence on sound, so it may just be my OCD talking.
Liked the video. Thanks for producing regular speaker content!
More to come!
Great video as always! You killed it!
Love your content. Pls include a playback demo.
Awesome video , really made this feel approachable , are the building & crossover plans still available ?
I'm waiting to hear back from the Hivi company. I need to be sure the dome midrange is still available before making plans available. I'll post an update in the community tab when they get back to me.
@@DIYhyfy i believe parts express has them, thank you ill be on the look out
awesome build!! amazing work i subscribed
i am diy my speaker cabinet build in progress, slowly mutating. next step i am going to make a equilateral triangle prism with equal sides of half meter from a sliding self lubricant plastic similar to teflon and nylon called delrin, at 4 mm thickness and bought more drivers, 18 in total.
i never liked the idea of separation between 2 worlds 1 the boring flat frequency response of mixing/ mastering and 2 i am also a consumer who wants to enjoy watching stereo movies, youtubes etc.
i might incorporate switches to turn on/off certain drivers for different moods.
in my attick my experience is the entire room it sounds better if i add drivers facing also the opposite direction instead of just the sweet spot equilateral triangle speaker positioning.
now it's going to be the speaker itself who is going to be the equilateral triangle. if i want more of a audiophile then i will engage the tang band, if i want more bass i would use the B&W drivers. etc.
i used to collect drivers from tv's thrown near the garbage. i got 200, then kept 30 best ones, and the 2 top ones adds a clarity and realism that B&W never achieved.
music is music, i don't like the differenciation between the worlds of musicians and consumers because i am both.
in the past i used any box, specially from wine, cheese and jamón, where those boxes has a sliding opener and i used that as open back cabinet with adjustable mechanical Q. as it opens it delivers more treble.
i don't like MDF and chipboard at furniture. it is sign of cheap poor house. and the B&W yellow kevlar speakers are those pseudo woods, which are essentially excessive glue and dust of wood. smelly when opening. you are responsible if the objects of your house smells or not. so gradually i've been swapping to pine the chipboards from my parents house. and i cannot accept speaker boxes made of chipboard. hence the reconversion. and it is expensive plastic 290 euros. and the tang band 301, and ribbon twitters 70, and 2 pairs of B&W 600euros and then a smaller tang band, then i bought its almost matching pair from the similar subwoofer that i found on the street. total thousand euros, and the cherry on top is the twist of realism that gives the favourite from tv, and that one was for free, ironicly.
Please note that schedule 40 2" PVC pipe has an ID of 2.067 which results in an area of 3.36 in sq, which is larger than using a nominal 2" ID calculation. Always shoot for accuracy
Forgot to say, great project!
Not one person on earth would hear the difference
@@mikerick6955 - Most DIY'ers are fanatical about using accurate calculations and using the nominal 2" as the diameter arrives at an 11% miscalculation. To me an 11% error is intolerable. I spent 15 months on an M60 main battle tank and everything above 12khz is a mystery to me, BUT, I still perform the most accurate calculations possible and always attempt to arrive at a full range solution with a decent tweeter.
Anal Retentive Randy@@RRRRRRandy
How did you do time align drivers in crossover?? Midrange is like 1" I front of the other?? Did you measure phase response? I learned that never have reflexport close to a wall. Always leave space around it. So it can breath.
Time alignment isn't really an issue there. An inch would result in a 0.07 ms delay i.e. not audible. Any phase issues would come from the crossover but from what I can tell there's no issue.
The thing about ports is generally true; they're definitely too close to the walls here as they're completely blocked off (essentially creating leaky closed boxes). You can get away with having them 𝘤𝘭𝘰𝘴𝘦 to a wall as long as you design them with that intention and that goes for all types of boxes.
@Undecid just like most polk rear ported speakers with wall hangers from factory.
Excellent work!👏
i only have a slight criticism of the lacquer painting technique,
use the spraygun at a fixed distance as you spray (robotic movement) ,there is no need to make a circular movement that changes the distance and thus the amount of material coming out so the result will be much better😁
I've loved watching your builds. I've been planning on building a higher-quality copy of the Wharfedale Lintons. 3-way with 8" woofer, 5" mid, tweeter. Using hardwood box or hardwood plywood for box. May use MDF for front panel. I'm considering using Datyton Reference series 8 ohm for woofer and mid. Also might use Dayton crossovers. Unsure about which tweeter. I would appreciate any feedback, and maybe this is a speaker you might consider building?
The Wharfedales would be a great speaker to take inspiration from.
Dayton Reference Series are great value, and great sounding drivers.
Using hardwood or mdf is really up to you. Some hardwoods can be great for speaker cabinets, other not. Just do your research.
The most important thing you mentioned is the crossover. A pre-built xover will take the nice drivers, and turn them into something you don't want.
If you have the budget, a measurement microphone is would be most useful.
If you can't afford one, maybe you have a friend with one. Crossover design relies on having measurements from a microphone, taken from the speakers in the box they will live in. Without this, it is a total guess what will happen when using a pre-built xover.
I hope this helps. Please ask more questions if you have them.
@@DIYhyfy I appreciate the feedback & wisdom. How much does the measurement mic cost?
"Was not compensated for this video" Yet you got a free 3 way setup, 6 drivers, which do have monetary value. Aside from that, wonderful video, and beautiful work on the speakers.
That's a fair criticism. I could think of a better way to word that. I'm always transparent that things were sent to me, but want to be clear that I'm not being paid to create a video, or say anything nice about them. They get no pre approval of my content. I'll work on how to talk about it more clearly.
Appreciate the watch!
Do an acoustic suspension build!
Without DSP it can be tough to do sealed drivers. Lower efficiency, and higher roll off without EQ.
There are benefits, but mist people are looking for lower F3s these days
@DIYhyfy AR used to do it without all the fancy computers we have now. The newer KLH series is acoustic suspension.
How did you anchor your crossover board in the cabinet?
I don't remember exactly what I used here, but either hot-glue, or a type of super glue. It's admittedly risky if you need to pull the xover back out.
More safe play is to use velcro strips on both board & cabinet for easy removal.
@DIYhyfy the best way is to buy some circuit board standoffs from parts express.
멋지네요 미드레인지 제작사나 구입처를 알려주세요
The midrange is from Hivi. I'm waiting to see if this model is available for purchase. This is not the same model you can find online.
영상초반에 제품설명이 있는데 못보구 질문 드렸네요. 친절한 답변 감사드립니다. ^^
I'm a little surprised that these studio monitors are so approachable. Most people who go out of their way to build a set of studio monitors will also use 3-way integrated amplifiers with DSP correction for absolute in-room linear neutral response. The SEAS KingRo4y mk.III DIY studio monitors call for this kind of setup, which makes them quite expensive to build. Seems like the sound quality is worth it, based on the reviews I've seen, but it's still a steep price increase.
There are definitely ways to improve with DSP. It really is hard to beat when it comes to low end extension, and linearity.
@@DIYhyfy DSP correction combined with durable drivers, powerful amplification, and a suitably rigid cabinet are really the only effective means to cheat the rule that there is no replacement for displacement. Combine all of those things and you can get much more powerful bass response out of a speaker than it should really be capable of through conventional means.
But the kind of design you used is far better for the average person considering a set of DIY studio monitors, since the barrier to entry is significantly reduced by the conventional speaker design. Fairly simple crossover, standard amplifier requirements, and the drivers aren't even unreasonably priced. I think the only thing I'd bother investigating an alternative to is to find some appropriately sized flared ports to reduce chuffing at high excursion on the woofer. Any other changes would either increase the cost too dramatically or would inherently modify the sound signature (like using a mid-woofer and tweeter with better extension so you can use a dedicated subwoofer driver for the woofer instead of a conventional woofer that just happens to have acceptable low end extension). This is to say that your design looks very good for the intended purpose and audience, so there's little room to improve it without detriment to one or more aspects.
It looks like one woofer speaker suffered a damaged surround in transit. It will have higher harmonic distortion during operation than an unspoiled unit due to asymmetric Kms, and may even present uneven compliance from side to side, resulting in coil rocking if the woofers ever really get hopping. You'll want to replace this unit to get consistent performance and the best longevity from the speaker.
I would definitely agree for the long term. I did also do a listening test in free air to listen for coil rub.
Ironically it was the protective cover that slipped sideways and was pressed against the surround for some time.
10 seconds into the video and all i think is: fine looking speakers, but those first reflections and resoances from the table will destroy all your efforts.
Yes, they certainly would. I mentioned later in the video that they wouldn't be well suited for use directly on a desk against a wall etc.
@@DIYhyfy my bad, shouldve watched until the end before commenting, great work