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i am diy my speaker cabinet build in progress, slowly mutating. next step i am going to make a equilateral triangle prism with equal sides of half meter from a sliding self lubricant plastic similar to teflon and nylon called delrin, at 4 mm thickness and bought more drivers, 18 in total. i never liked the idea of separation between 2 worlds 1 the boring flat frequency response of mixing/ mastering and 2 i am also a consumer who wants to enjoy watching stereo movies, youtubes etc. i might incorporate switches to turn on/off certain drivers for different moods. in my attick my experience is the entire room it sounds better if i add drivers facing also the opposite direction instead of just the sweet spot equilateral triangle speaker positioning. now it's going to be the speaker itself who is going to be the equilateral triangle. if i want more of a audiophile then i will engage the tang band, if i want more bass i would use the B&W drivers. etc. i used to collect drivers from tv's thrown near the garbage. i got 200, then kept 30 best ones, and the 2 top ones adds a clarity and realism that B&W never achieved. music is music, i don't like the differenciation between the worlds of musicians and consumers because i am both. in the past i used any box, specially from wine, cheese and jamón, where those boxes has a sliding opener and i used that as open back cabinet with adjustable mechanical Q. as it opens it delivers more treble. i don't like MDF and chipboard at furniture. it is sign of cheap poor house. and the B&W yellow kevlar speakers are those pseudo woods, which are essentially excessive glue and dust of wood. smelly when opening. you are responsible if the objects of your house smells or not. so gradually i've been swapping to pine the chipboards from my parents house. and i cannot accept speaker boxes made of chipboard. hence the reconversion. and it is expensive plastic 290 euros. and the tang band 301, and ribbon twitters 70, and 2 pairs of B&W 600euros and then a smaller tang band, then i bought its almost matching pair from the similar subwoofer that i found on the street. total thousand euros, and the cherry on top is the twist of realism that gives the favourite from tv, and that one was for free, ironicly.

Glad I stumbled on this build as it confirms an issue that I discovered with the speaker. That dip in the lower mids is in fact there. I measured mine outside elevated quite high up and got the same dip which isn't present in Paul's sim. Unfortunately this likely means that Paul's data he utilized for filter design was not very accurate. It can be quite tricky to get accurate information for the woofer to mid filtering. Paul states he did much of the voicing in home so I assume this dip was to counter act the speakers loading in his room. I felt this dip in the response bothered me quite a bit and left me with a speaker that felt too bright and lacked body. I ended up removing the passive crossover and running the speakers active to get around this issue and overall achieve much better driver integration.

Why does everyone use butt joints as opposed to adding a rabbit or groove.

Can you dyi a jtr rs1?

The tritrix was my first DIY build 😝

Awesome!!! Reminds kef ls50 meta. Amazing work and craftsmanship itching to finish some other around the house work and repeat it. Will it affect anything if I make the front port? I want them jn my table and the space is an issue. Do you think of making some shallow and wide speaker like kef q4 meta??? I

Two Against Nature!

behind you W6-2313 <3 <3 <3 thank you for those info, about to try one of the suggestions now!!

great video

Hey man, instead of all that primer/sealer, use a mixture of wood glue and water as your mdf sealer. It will help have a better base for your paint.

Nice thanks for the info . So far I really enjoy my ADS L780 but being a woodworker I really want to build a nice set of speakers... I never actually listen to "high end speakers" Im curious where my ADS would be compared to your list ? I also wonder if I like them because they are closed enclosure ....?

this is the content we need, awesome projects on the cheap. speaking of I'm tired of companies charging so much for high power amps! hopefully this will be a thing in the past within the next few years.

Where can I purchase these now? I can't find them for sale anymore? anyone?

How much u charge I have the same one

Nice clean, simple build. (The binding posts look upside down...or maybe I've been doing it wrong?)

Danny is about to announce some kind of spectacular speaker. Keep an eye out for that one as well. Thanks for this video!

I’m a GR Research customer for over 10 years. I still use a pair of X-SLS, the tower version of the X-LS, in my living room system. I also have X-Statiks which are phenomenal speakers for the money! Very tough to beat but they really need space to shine.

I'm fairly certain offsetting the Drivers slightly also has a canceling effect on edge diffraction. I didn't see you do it, but assume you radiused the inside cabinet edge where the driver is, yes? That is a cause for issues.

1" mdf for panels?

I've built many of the GR kits over the years. They have all been exceptional in both sound quality and value. I currently have four different speakers in my house. These include a pair of small desktop monitors with full range drivers in my office, a pair of two-way bookshelfs in a bedroom, MTM transmission lines in the living room, and a pair of full range full open baffle speaker/subs in the man cave. Another company that makes high quality DIY kits you, and your audience, might want to check out is Pi Speakers. They specialize in DIY horn speaker kits which have all the performance characteristics people love about horns without the typical horn downsides.

TRY WAX INSTEAD OF POLY OR LAQUER.

1/4" hardboard is excellent for xover boards. You can use standoff or make circular spacers, drill a hole and just use drywall screws into the cabinet with a couple blobs of hot glue so you can easily get them back out.

Bet those would sound good with a passive radiator on the back fully sealed a la ESS.

Pit Vipers are unavailable already btw. Site is closed.

If I can make a suggestion with finish coat of the speakers,as a speaker builder from scratch myself I have had great success with "MinWax wipe on poly" I'm from Australia,and the second largest home improvement chain we had, used to carry MinWax wipe on Poly, unfortunately they are now gone,and we can't get that product in Australia anymore,it came as a oil based and water based,I have tried both and the finish you get with the oil based is like a professional spray finish,it's very easy and quick to wipe it all on and wipe off,use a very fine 240 grit "sponge pad" not paper and block,that takes off all nibs,nibs are caused from the wood fibers being raised,once it has fully cured after 24 hours,wipe on another coat,and lightly sand with 240 grit sponge again,then the third coat is the final coat,the finish will blow your mind,I also used the satin,as not a fan of gloss,gloss makes things look plasticy.

Quick advice on the pit vipers and carmody stuff in general. Many of his speakers, including the pit vipers, don't measure in line with his sims. I built the pit vipers and they exhibit a broad recess in response between 300hz to 1.5k, 400hz is about 10db lower than the rest of the speaker for instance. I measured the speakers outdoors and elevated away from boundaries.

Nice job and detailed explanation. I built the C-notes as well and finished in cherry veneer. For more porous veneers I like to pore fill with Timbermate, or epoxy/cabosil. I used French polish on cherry and it is perhaps my favorite gloss finish of all. Poly is fine but it attracts dust and other contaminants. I use poly if I am going to burnish it to satin with 0000 steel wool but for gloss, I almost always choose lacquer. C-notes are not my favorite bookshelf design. These were kind of the final straw as to why I don't build or buy speakers under say, 6.5". Two exceptions being the Speedsters, and Jeff Bagby's Continuums. The latter were designed to be used with subs so they are very effective above 60hz or so and have some of the sweetest mid-range. Once we start trying to crowd in sub bass on these little drivers, SPL capabilities become severely limited. I choose speakers that can play to 90db easily, even if I only listen at 70db or so.

We can hear you without seeing you so leave the speaker pictures on the screen while you are talking.

Very happy with my jamo d590

I build speakers for 40 years The only bang for buck speakers are Facebook and craigslist

I only clicked on this video because of the “Fisher” or Foster woofer and the Cerwin Vega Stroker 👌

Have you ever built or heard of madisound nada 2 way from an audio magazine few years back klang and yon kit go yo their website get the full details it has some of the most current scanpeak Drivers and scanspeaks premium berilium tweeters , mundorf caps and other crossover parts, goertz inducters its what sonus faber uses on its top of line speakers and has been upgraded to include. Mundorfs newest capasitars that will be fasing out the ones used before with options to have sealed or ported cabinets. The only upgrade that is needed is like Furutech binding posts the better quality the better and some furutech wire for internal wiring. I also now a german in germany that has this same kit my brother has an earlier kit 3 way sounds as good as my sonus faber cremona m a 10k speaker but his newer designs are much better as he uses volt midrange resembling the atc mirange but im thinking the madisound is a better crossover because his crossover uses goerts inductors and chinese copper wird he does use mundorf to but this kit for madison is more sellective parts let me know what you think, also they have a builder in u.s. that can make the the cabinets and assemble the speakers for you to they do an awesome job its on the madisound web page

I'm listening to you on my early 80s UK DIY Malcolm Jones Tabors built from scratch using Audax drive units & simple tools over a Xmas Uni break. The build was arduous enough not to be repeated. Last fall I considered building the XLS Encores but at $700/pair & remembering the Tabors I searched for Chinese speaker bargains & discovered the Q-Acoustics 3050s ($400/pair). They were positively reviewed by Martin Colloms a highly respected UK journalist. To avoid disappointment, before any build I would suggest an audition or comprehensive review (with quality data). Cheers!

How low does it go? I really like the fact that this is so compact. I currently have 2x the SVS PB1000. But in a box as small as this I would be able to fit 15 inch woofers in my room probably.

Is that the Tang Band W6-2313 coaxial woofer in the back behind you? Also, Toid did a collab with former TH-camr Kirby Meets Audio to make a 2 way tower similar to the Amiga. I've built 1 pair and have the parts for a second. I'm quite a fan of them. I also built a BLH using the MarkAudio CHR-70 which turned out well. Keep up the good work!

Do an acoustic suspension build!

I'd add the Frugal Horn XL, paired with a full range driver of your choice. The Alpair 11MS is supposed to be good, I tried the Alpair 10.3 and found it smooth and relaxing, but enjoyed the Tang Band W5-2143 more. Even more so after using the room correction feature in the Wiim streamer (very much recommend to try this out). I'll also try the Fostex FF-165WK driver. Very suitable is a low power single-ended triode amp, like an EL34 or 300B. The Frugal Horn XL can go deep in bass, still cannot play real loud, but with a full range driver have this intricate detail in the midrange that is hard to get with multi-way speakers. A speaker that can't do it all, but can do some things exceptionally well. And I mean reaaaallllly well. Available as a CNC-machined kit from Big Wood Studio in the U.S. and KJF audio in the UK.

I want a Solid Oak cabinet with 1" thick walls for an 18" subwoofer!

Your Pit Viper build video helped me decide that is absolutely my next build. I had my sites on a more complicated, much more expensive speaker set by Curt Campbell. Based on your feedback, I expect I'll be pleased with my results, and it is still an ambitious project.

Thanks for the mention.

I really enjoyed your video. For us who like to DIY it's great to see all the options that are out there. I have made 4 or Soundblab's speakers and enjoy not only the sound but also the plans. He most certainly wins a big thumbs up from me in regards to the quality of his videos.

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Nice, but I would have used black hardware to bolt the driver into the cabinet instead of chrome.

I would very much appreciate a flat pack, as I have no way to cut the wood.

The Pit Vipers, please.

GR research ? 😂 You have to buy and assemble the kit then ship the speakers to GR where Danny removes the crossover and installs his up grade kit for an extra cost .😂

I can vouch for the TriTrix. Awesome kit.