Buying a Kubota L3302 tractor from a flood auction. Will it run? Am I nuts?!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ต.ค. 2023
- I bought a flood-damaged brand new Kubota L3302 in an auction. WHAT COULD POSSIBLY GO WRONG?! :) If you’re as curious as I was about how a tractor arrives at the dealership or how I went about seeing if this tractor was going to run, I hope you enjoy!
FYI this is not a comprehensive run-down on tractor PDI/dealer prep nor on tractor maintenance.
As mentioned in the video, this amazing (and tragic) view of the flood helped me gauge how much water the tractor had been in: • Deep Water Swamps Wats...
Here are some tools I used in this project:
Required message: Not a sponsored video but if you use my Amazon links, you pay the same, but as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
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Super grippy oil filter wrench I use: amzn.to/3tUofam
Pry bar that came in super handy when we needed to lift the corners of the steel crate and get dollies under it. It’s pricey but should easily last a lifetime: amzn.to/3Mkjttf
Chains and binders I use for securing loads: amzn.to/3QyD2R2
Wheel chocks that are critical when loading a trailer or making sure something that’s partially on jack stands doesn’t roll: amzn.to/40eidxv - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
It looks like you put the lug nuts on backwards at 11:53. The cone shaped side should normally be toward the rim to center it on the stud. If you plan to do loader work with this tractor, I strongly suggest you have the rear tires filled with liquid. They really get tippy when you lift a load and having extra ballast is always good. Excellent video, by the way.
Thanks for commenting! Already filled the rear tires to about 75% and put a ballast box on the back that I filled with concrete. Doesn't have any forward lean to it when picking up now at full capacity so I know those helped a lot :)
As for the lug nuts, others have commented that as well but nobody seems to know WHY. On many of these tractor's wheels, there is a conical depression that the conical side of the nut seats in. For example: www.messicks.com/images/parts/167/ku_70000-000280.webp I think those are the R14's that are so common.
But mine are totally flat with no accommodation or affordance for a conical seating (maybe because they are R4's?). So I'm absolutely not saying mine aren't reversed because I don't know. But I do think many people saying they're reversed is based on most that people have seen, where the wheel itself is formed differently. What I'd love to hear is some rationale for why the smaller side should go in even with no seat for it. I suppose with a fixed torque, a smaller contact area might lead to a higher actual contact force (but over a smaller area). But given how much mating surface area there is, I'm not sure why that would be a benefit.
ANYWAY, the summary is they might be reversed but I'd love to learn more about that :)
@@LetsOverthinkThis - Thanks for such an in-depth reply. Regarding the lug nuts, the reason I stated that the cone 'normally' faces toward the rim is exactly what you stated. Some rims have a very small countersink for the cone but, it sounds like yours do not. In your case then, you are correct to install them the way you did. Glad you are on top of your game when it comes to ballast. I'm sure you're keeping your load as close to the ground as you can when moving. As a former EMT in a rural mountainous area, I've seen some nasty accidents. One fellow got busted up pretty bad because he wouldn't listen to his neighbor who suggested that he back down hills when he had picked up a hay bale. He had the tractor in two wheel drive and there are no brakes on the front wheels. I guess he freaked out when he started to pick up speed and lose control when going down the hill and raised his load instead of lowering it. Of course, no seat belt was worn. Stay safe and enjoy your new tractor.
on the lug nuts, you are correct about the cone shape, if the hub locates the wheel, (Hub Pilot) yes the lug nuts should be flat on the wheel, taper seat wheel , the cone will locate. @@LetsOverthinkThis
Hell, you sure did excellent job of stuffing that oil drain plug back in without dropping it into the drain pan…, hahaha..! Good job on changing out that Hydro fluid (probably 10gallons), and expensive, but that is cheap compared to the potential for problems down the road.
Great video,
Thank you sir.
@@greggb1416 yeah it's a lot of hydro fluid, 7 Gal or so as I recall and not cheap but it's practically the vehicle's blood, ya know? Thanks for watching and commenting!
By changing that water contaminated oil in the rear end right away, you very likely avoided many problems with the hydraulic system
It's actually vented so the moisture would evaporate out when you run it hard enough to heat up the oil.
@@solexxx8588 as flooded as that tractor was, it's better to change out every fluid and not take any chances. Changing the fluids is way cheaper than major repairs to the engine or transmission.
Nice find! It’s a Kubota with the old school mechanical injection. That tractor will run for a long time if taken care of. I’m a John Deere guy, but I’ll admit that Kubota has a good solid tractor.
I'm not a diesel mechanic but I think these have a high pressure injector system, no? Im with you that in many cases the older, simpler ways were better....
Well , Mr Benoit you are VERY Wrong. This "Kubogy" has "High pressure common rail fuel Direct injection . Nothing "Old-School " about it ... & Without Its ECM Computer it GOES NOWHERE.
Man when you popped that hood and I saw the water/dirt line on the radiator fins I knew you had a runner.
Hell I was so excited I felt like I was the guy who bought it lol
Also, the reason most electric motors fail the way your starter motor did is due to corrosion between the commutator and brushes. I've brought several stuck electric motors back to life by pulling and cleaning these. Its almost never the bearings or armature windings that fail (despite popular belief).
Lol, glad you got a little rush from it and thanks for the great info on what often causes motors to cease! Good to know. Thanks for watching and commenting :)
That was pretty straightforward . I build and pdi iseki tractors and when they turn up its just about 200 bolts and washers with no build kit , telling you not where they go , luckily when you’ve done a few it makes sense . Regardless always check the oils as in the factory some are so retarded oils are overfilled or have none especially on cutting decks . Part of the pdi checks 😉👍
Thanks for the comment and yeah, luckily this one was straightforward! And I've heard that things from the factory about fluids not being correctly filled for sure. Anyway, thx for the watching!
I would recommended taking starter off and check it apart and checking for corrosion from water and cleaning it.
Yeah not a bad idea though it's started many times since then with no problem. I suppose if it's corroded inside, cleaning it might prolong it's lfe...
Thx for the comment!
Agreed. Over 55 years of experience on amphibious military vehicles tells me it is well worth stripping the starter and solenoid, cleaning in kerosene and lubing all moving parts and bare metal slides to prevent failure and replacement further down the line. Amazing what a slight smear of grease can prevent in the long run. My sense of "level" also makes me agree with the alternator bearing guys. A few hours spent on preventative maintenance now could save frustration at unreliability and costly unit replacement in the future. Tapping with a hammer is only a "get you home" measure, not a solution.
Enjoy the learning curve.
All good points! It's been flawless since then, with well over 20 starts and some hours of use, but none-the-less agreed! Thanks for the great comment.
Happy you made it work! I also bid on a couple of these tractors but they went above my allowance I set for myself. I’m glad this wasn’t a complete Waste of money for you as I know the nail biting feeling of investing in the unknown. Congrats on your new tractor
Was above my allowance too ;) Thanks for watching and commenting!
I'm truly happy for you, while at the same time a little jealous. Lord willing, some day soon we will have a nice tractor to use around our farm. I hope all your plans / projects for your land go smoothly. Tony
Thank you kindly, tony. 🙏
A little trick I've seen in tractor Workshops: when you have your tractor on jack stands there is still a danger that it could tilt around the center pivot of the front axle. So they always out chalks left and right between the axle and the frame to make that impossible.
Oh that's a smart tip. Thanks a bunch!
Nice video, and I am glad it worked out for you! I read a thread some months ago on TBN about these particular flood tractors, and was intrigued. I personally would not have bid on one, but that's just me.
Enjoy your new machine.
Thanks! And objectively I agree with you; was a big risk and flood vehicles usually don't pay off at all. So far, so good though ;)
Nice job and nice save on the tractor. Great video and it looks like you put a good amount of detail into working all the areas water would have impacted. I think you got yourself a good tractor that should go the distance.
Thanks for watching and for the comment! We shall see 😬 You never really know with these things but it's great so far and I'm thrilled to have it. Take care.
I think that it is awesome how you went about evaluating any potential issues and systematically approaching them. You were mentioned on tractorbynet and then found you here. The consensus was that you were nuts. I was thinking that if the tractor had not been powered on immediately after being in the water and fluids were checked/changed such as you did, it would be fine. If it had been salt water, then the story would be different. Good job on rescuing a good tractor.
Howdy! Yeah, I've seen the "Are You A Gambler?" thread ;) I don't really disagree with even the negative predictions but they're all taking it from a purely financial standpoint and ignoring how many things most of us do in our daily lives for other reasons. As an example, I've made many pieces of fine woodworking furniture where I spent *way* more in lumber and time and tools than buying it would have cost. But I learned a lot, have a good story, and spent my time doing something I like.
Sure I'll be pretty frustrated if the tractor starts failing in new ways, but at least for now I feel like I won *overall* so far.
Thanks again for the comment!
Great video, hope you have many happy hours tractor ing .
I would have just added some fresh diesel and ran the tractor to almost empty. There's no water in the sample taken so odds are it doesn't even matter, to be honest. I did notice the alternator is lower than the air filter, so it would have been underwater.
Yeah, good point. And with the filter in the water separator and the real fuel filter down the line, it's super unlikely any particulates would make it through *anyway*.
True about the alternator. I didn't throw a clamp meter on the lead coming from it but I can if I run into problems. So far I've easily stated it 20 times since then and it doesn't struggle to turn over so I'm guessing I'm okay. But the alternator is a good place to look if that changes. Thanks for watching and commenting!
You did well out of that deal. Well done! Also loved the video. 👍
Glad you liked it! Super happy with the tractor so far :)
Very cool find! Congrats!
Thx!
Another thing you want to do is check the fluid in your front axle; not because of the water damage, but because the level it comes with changes once you use the tractor the first few times. It appears to take some time to seep into all the nooks and crannies. If you don't check it after running it, you could be running it with a low oil level and causing premature wear. Best of luck with all your overthinking endeavors!
Thanks for the insight! I did check the front axle oil but it's a good point that it may settle out for a bit and end up lower then expected. Thx for watching!
Great bit of kit. Hope it serves you well.
Thanks! Loving it so far.
Those Kubota's are nearly bullet proof, I suspect you'll have no more issues than any other owner/operator would. I have a L3560 for 3yrs now and I love it!
Glad to hear it and I definitely love it so far! Thx for commenting.
This may be the best Kubota L series video on the internet. It is obviously extremely useful even for those of us who have L series tractors which have not been immersed in water (which would be a bit of a majority, one would assume). Cannot thank you enough.
R. Henry, M.D. (L 2501)
Thanks so much! New to the tractor world so that means a lot to me. Glad you enjoyed it and keep enjoying your 2501!
Great work.
Thx!
Good, interesting review. :)
Very interesting! Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Just Subbed , Hope the Tractor works out! Seems to be in good shape!!
So far, so good! Love that tractor!
thats amazing. You'll love that tractor
I do so far for sure! Thx for watching.
Excellent video, thank you!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@LetsOverthinkThis i certainly did!! You gambled & won big time. 👍🏼😎
Good job
Thx!
I am guessing you will not be sorry with the tractor. I might have done a bit more digging around to see what things look like ... though it might have been just as clean as any other tractor... Good work!
You are going to want to turn your front lug nuts around, bevel inward and check that they are torqued to the correct spec every fifty hours of operation. Good work and great video.
Thx for the comment! I disagree, no conical seats on my wheels so this way is the right way. I've gone into this so many times before in the comments can't do it every time. But I appreciate the heads up.
I admire his self control to only do what is necessary.
I would have wasted loads of time and money flushing everything out.
Which would have been rational too! I'm going to flush out everything once it's been run in a bit.
im not a diesel machanic but the thing id be most worried about atm would be the alternator. it looks like it may of been below the water line but other than that looks great.
Very good point. I didn't throw a clamp meter on the lead coming from it.... probably should. Though I've started it maybe 20 times already and no problems. At this point I *think* I'm probably safe, but agreed it may not perform as it should after submersion. Thanks for commenting!
I saw those tractors sell on auction
Thanks for sharing…
Thx for watching!
Good score, put a few hours on my l3302 today. ;🙂
Thx for watching. I love that tractor 😁
... ive hauled those crated from Kubota Manufacturing of America Corporation Gainsville GA and delivered to dealers B4 thats a great deal an fun video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for delivering precious cargo!
.. hide one of those tracking things on it if you can in case it's stolen .. Kubota ...!
@@LetsOverthinkThis
Looks like you are moving some Perks trusses with your front end loader and forks. I put up one of their 4000 series 40x80 8 years ago.
Similar style but these are from Miracle Truss! We'll see how they work out.
You changed the fluids, so you should be alright now. If you were going to have trouble, you would have started experiencing them now you are using the tractor. I think you did good buying this tractor.
That's my feeling, too. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I recognize that shipping crate from when my tractor was shipped new to the dealer. I would have to think that it will have a salvage title that will make it harder to sell. Money well spent in my book.
Yeah I would definitely disclose it if I sold it and would get less than a tractor that hadn't been through this. But then again I paid less so it's hard to know how that would okay out. But totally fair point!
CHECK THE FRONT AXLE GEAR OIL!!! They ship with very little oil in them and take 6-8qts. My new 2501 was low 6qts.
Hi there, thanks for the heads-up! I actually did (on-screen text at 8:18) but didn't edit it in. I've also heard they arrive low but for some reason this one was full. It's not called for but will probably empty it at 50 miles and re-fill it since it was under water.
Thanks again!
@@LetsOverthinkThis Sorry I missed that but it is a common issue. I gather it has no warranty?
Yeah, mentioned that, but no warranty which is genuinely the biggest strike, value-wise.
Adventure for sure
👍
Those conical or “acorn” lug nuts will self-center themselves on the stud. Had you torqued them with the chamfered surface pointed towards the rim, you will notice these nuts would have imparted a chamfer upon the rim where they seated at the stud.
By mounting these lug nuts flat” you are allowing the rim a very small amount of movement around the wheel stud. Over many years of use mounted “flat”, you might notice the lug hole openings are oblong and not round as a result of this movement.
Thanks for the thoughtful comment! I hear what you're saying, but I'm not sure. Many of the Kubota wheels have conical depressions/seats meant to receive the conical part of the nut, thus acting in the way you mentioned as a lug-centric mount. At the dealer it's pretty clear most of the wheels are meant to act this way and have those conical depressions from the factory. IE the wheel will self-center with those cones in those depressions. Some wheels, like mine, are completely flat metal (and much thicker than the pressed ones above), and have no such seats. I even found a version of this in Kubota's assembly diagrams where they show it my way, but with a split washer and flat washer under it (which admittedly I didn't use!), and then it acts as a lug-centric mount. I'll remove a lug nut soon and confirm that the O.D. of the small part of the cone fits or doesn't into the I.D. of the hole in the wheel. I suspect if it fits, they're on backwards, and if it doesn't, they go the way I have them. But again, much appreciate the comment and thoughts!
You are right about the nuts. I work for Kubota and some are meant to be put on flat side towards the rim and some are not. If the wheel has a conical seat then nuts are put on with cone facing the seat.@@LetsOverthinkThis
THANK YOU! I've gone through this so many times in the comments and appreciate the POV of somebody who works with Kubota.
Good deal.
So far! 🤞
Awesome.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I absolutely love my l2501 kubota
Awesome, I can see why from my time in the seat of my L3302 so far!
As a dealer, I can tell you that the lug nuts are on backwards. The cone is to attempt to give the nut more surface area and center the rim. Don’t shoot the messenger but Kubota’s set up instructions specifically speak to this.
OOH, you're the person who can help me get to the bottom of this! Thank you for commenting. You're maybe the third person who has mentioned this but after I respond, people don't have any actual info and maybe you do as a dealer! I have seen the lugnuts conical side in but on hubs that have a mating conical depression, like these: www.messicks.com/images/parts/167/ku_70000-000280.webp
I think those are the R14 wheels. But my wheels, R4 wheels, are completely flat thick metal. What you said about giving the nut more surface area cone side in would be true if my wheels had conical seats for them, but actually if I turned my nuts that way i'd have LESS SURFACE AREA since only the flat smaller diameter end would be touching my wheel, and none of the cone. So.... can you point me towards the set up instructions or see if they are more specific about this? I'm not at all shooting the messenger, but as a mechanical engineer, I find it hard to believe I'm supposed to opt for less mating surface, though I totally agree if I had wheels with seats for the cones, they'd be better off the other way.
Oh, and should be noted if you look at the assembly diagram for the L3302 with 25*8.5-14 wheels (the only diagram showing a wheel with no conical seats), they have it my way, with the cone showing out, which feels like it validates the idea that more mating surface area is the goal.
okay, that was a long response, but thanks for commenting either way!!
The insurance company/Kubota is going to get their money, or at least do what is cheapest for them but I'm glad yours is running right. There was a Kubota tractor that had problems a few years ago with the regen and I don't remember which one it was. I can't remember the channel I saw it on either. From the sounds of it if you save any money it not a lot by the time you change oil and everything maybe a couple of thousand? I would try myself so it's nice that you're having good luck so far.
Yeah, there was a model a while back that is regarded as the one to avoid (this isn't it). My savings are at least $5k at this point but it all will depend on what goes wrong and how much it costs. Either way, like I mentioned, the experience of it has value to me and so far the tractor has been an amazing (and flawless) tool. Fingers crossed :) and thanks for watching and commenting!
@@LetsOverthinkThis If it's not the troubled one I'd say it's a good gamble that you won't have issues from now on, but who knows? I would take the chance, too. So hope everything turns out okay. Wish I had gotten one years ago even though I didn't need it. (after Covid prices shot through the roof on this stuff/everything)
Take care with rear wheels as they can be and probably should be filled with 2/3 water. Adds up to a lot of weight and makes things more stable. Problem is getting the water into the tube and the danger when you remove a wheel. Many people have been crushed and killed as the hold a lot of water.
Fair to be careful. I did already have them filled when I bought the tires and wheels at the dealer (the auction tractor didn't come with any). I was prepared to fill em myself but was super happy they did it for really cheap. Thx for the comment!
Rotate the valve stem up at the highest point to fill it and at the lowest point to drain it before removing it! We use a tiny piece of copper tubing from a refrigerator repair kit and polished the ends so that when filling it back up air can escape from inside the tube to above the funnel, making filling it back up nearly as fast as draining it and no one gets crushed!
I would be curious about the bearings on the alternator and when or if it fails early due to corrosion on the balls/races.
This is an excellent point. I never threw a clamp meter on the alternator cable but I assume it's working *now* because of how many times I've used it. But you're right that part may prematurely fail for the reasons you mentioned. Seems like a new one is 400 and change but if it's a bearing I hope I can just rebuild it with some McMaster parts 😉
boy you were lucky!
So far! 😉
THANKS for the cost info
No problem 👍
ya dun gud
Did you check the front axle for water also the front gear reduction that drives each front tire, a crossed a creek and ended up getting water in mine
I didn't but that's a great idea. I assumed (based on not much) that it was decently sealed up there but apparently I'm wrong. Thx and will do.
I am so jealous 👍
I spent years in your shoes waiting until I could get my own, so I know the feeling. Thx for watching and hope you enjoyed it anyway. Take care!
WELL DONE. I enjoyed this video but I am not sure I would have taken the risk. Thank's for sharing this with us. Buy a lottery ticket because I think lady luck was smiling on you.
LOL thank you and to be honest, on the whole I feel the same way as you. Somehow through my research (and excitement) I convinced myself to take the plunge, but not the wise-est decision I've made for sure. At any rate, I love that tractor so far!
It a be find a friend of mine bought a f350 from Florida been underwater he drove it to Kentucky and one year later the computer give out they had told him the flood only got over the tires but it had a 5” lift on it he changed it and 3 years later it would blow up lol 😂
Wow it was still expensive. I hope it goes well for you.
Yeah, they're sought after so it's hard to get a good deal either auction or used.
Transmission might have a breather tube that let water in. Although that doesn't really make sense for a hydraulic system because it is supposedly under pressure.
I don't think the sump part where it's serving as transmission fluid is pressurized, since the dip stick comes right out. I think the hydraulic pump pulls from there, though, through a filter, and then serves the high pressure side. Again, I *think*. But yeah, I'm guessing the dipstick or breather let in that water....
Thx for watching and commenting!
@@LetsOverthinkThis That makes more sense, a pump pulls the fluid out of an ordinary chamber then from there it's pressurized.
Looks like a fun project. Glade it all came out good. Thanks for sharing this journey.
Was fun and I love the tractor so far. Thx for the comment!
Last May I saw an ad on Craigslist for a not running Diesel Toro 5xi tractor. I replied and the guy said $300 and it was all of 6 miles from home. I was on it like starving pigs running to a trough. 60” deck included for $300. Only 65.8 hours on it, first owner ran it low on oil and 2 of 3 connecting rods broke. I’ve sold the grill, front bumper, exhaust, head, crankshaft for $1,000. Traded the 60” deck for a 5xi tiller and a set of 23” ag tires. I’m keeping some parts since I have 3 other 5xi tractors but I have yet a lot of parts to sell. So far in sales and trades I have a 5 time return on investment.
Awesome! And bringing new life to those parts.
Mind me asking what auction site had these ? I didn't see anything posted . My mom lives on the other side of the Pajaro river that flooded.. about 5 mins from that dealer. Her neighborhood flooded but not nearly as bad as that side did and her house was high enough that it stayed dry . Happy that it was a success... and a bit jealous :)
It was ironplanet.com. There an almost infinite things at auction there all over the world, so you have to keep an eye on it if you're looking for a specific item in a specific geographic range. I'm *really* sorry to hear you had family impacted but glad she was okay. That flood was no joke. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hello, been wondering what you have been up too. Enjoyed the video, I think you did very well, may I ask what you did re the missing fuel cap? Also, will you be adding weight to the rear tires? Watching you move the steel on sloping ground I’m guessing you will, amazing the difference it makes, look forward to the next instalment! Take care
It has been a while since i've posted! Hopefully as my new build project actually begins that will change :)
For the fuel cap, I just bought a new one (Kubota part TC630-42052). It was ~$24. And yes, I filled the rears about 70% full which helps a lot, plus I put a ballast box on the back with maybe 500 pounds of concrete in it, which is likely how moving the steel was uneventful ;)
Thanks for watching!
@@LetsOverthinkThis love your videos, forgive me if this is something you already know, did you know there are ballast products you put in your tires? In the past I form them much more convenient that weights fitted to the rear, anyway looking forward to the build.
Thanks so much! Definitely time-consuming to make ;)
Yes! I did fill my rear tires but *also* have that ballast box. The tires weighed will really help keep it planted but in my opinion, you really need weight behind the rear wheels if you want to use the rear wheels as a fulcrum and reduce the weight on the front axle. So I have both. Thanks again for watching and for the comment.
Nice tractor, sadly the dealer didnt think about sorting the tires to the tractors. Iam pretty sure the tires that belonged to this tractor just shipped on a seperate pallet/ container. So someboda else probably bought a whole bunch of wheels from this auction without the tractors or the dealer kept them as spares or whatever...
Decent assumption but it's not their fault: all of the tires floated away in the flood. They come on separate pallets and as heavy as they are, still float. They would have been happy to sell me tires if they had any but they didn't.
Are the lugs backwards? On normal cars, the pointed end of the lug faces the wheel. You might want to double check.
Thx for the comment! I've answered this below, but many of Kubotas wheels have conical seats for the lug nuts and act as a lug centric wheel. Mine do not, they are just thick flat metal thus my wheel acts as a hub centric wheel. So flipping them would just give me less mating surface area and not help center them at all. But it is a common comment and Im not 100% sure 😃
It's a kubota. It will last longer than a green one.
Tell that to the rich farmers 😂
@@bekabeka71 the orange and green dealer near me sold way more orange tractors. But the green ones were always the majority of the broken down ones in the service yard. Weird? The price of a green one reflects only advertising costs. And maybe bragging rights?
Dream on
They each have their pros and cons.
Thats cute lol
Glad it worked out for you. It it sounds like you really didn’t save any money at all.
I did for my area but if you're in other parts of the country, you wouldnt have at this price.
nuts sounds about right
Yep.
Just a question...Did you mount your front tires with the lug nuts backwards?
Yes, I caught that also.
SUCH a good question! I honestly wasn't sure what to do. At the dealer, on another L series tractor, I noticed the front wheels had pressed conical bosses in them that receive the conical side of the nut (so if mine had those, the nuts would have been backwards). But I think those might have been R14's and all I can tell you is my R4 wheels don't have conical depressions in them; it's just flat metal. Given that, I chose to put the side with the most surface area against the wheel. But I wasn't sure. Have you seen the conical side placed inwards on wheels that don't have a depression for them?
I much appreciate the heads-up and comment!
@@LetsOverthinkThisTurn the lug nuts... Congrats on the tractor.
@@LetsOverthinkThis On heavy trucks and trailers in the UK it is a simple engineering premise. Conical side of nuts need a similar indentation receiver in the rim to obtain the correct torque. If the wheel has no such indentations, then it is flat to flat and a higher torque. Manufacturers will provide dual sided nuts to accommodate both options in a single part number.
You didn't mention the diffs. Might want to check them. Sucks to have to rebuild.
Good point!
I don't know if anyone has asked this and apologize if so. Where did you buy or find this at? Website or any info would be awesome, I live in Ca as well and am looking for a tractor for some Arizona land.
No problem! It's from one of the largest auction sites there is: ironplanet.com
You have to keep an eye out because stuff comes up constantly and literally all over the planet. A flood auction like mine seems to be rare but Kubota tractors are on there all of the time. Good luck!
How much did you save over all? (with no warrantee?) Buying the tractor? As the loaders and tires, wheels must have really set you back.
Hard to say, but probably 5 to 8. The loader did set my back but I paid the same as I would have paid on a new tractor. Tires and wheels were probably 500 mm more as a set then Kubota lists them for on a new tractor.
Change the fluid right away. Especially the hydraulic. After running for about 15 min it will have picked up more water.
Also you should have pulled the injectors before turning over the motor. If there was water in the cylinders you could have hydrolocked it. If the engine did have water and was rusty having it rebuilt is not to bad. Hydrolocking it would cost a lot more.
But change all the fluids now. And then again after running for about 3 hours.
Good advice and you're absolutely right about pulling the injectors being the safest way to make sure Im not going to bend rods when I turn it over. To be honest I considered it and then thought access to the injectors wasn't as clear as I had expected and I got lazy. I also made a guess based on the water level indicated by my air filter in terms of water I filtration. But totally right I was taking a big risk by not pulling em.
I'll flush the fluids (again) soon!
Thx for watching 🙌
Hi I have had many old tractors that have milky coloured oil in the gearbox /hydraulic system and they have been used for years like that and I’ve not had any problems don’t worry it will be fine just change it again sooner but you are unlikely to stop the oil going white again it’s a devil of a job to clear the system out
Thanks for the comment! Yeah, I think it takes a really small % of water in an oil system, properly frothed up to get it milky. I'm guessing in the PPM range, but I don't actually know. I'm currently trying a little "mechanic in a bottle", the hydraulic fluid version, which seems to be well-regarded for separating out the water. I'll be changing the oil again soon and I'll see how it goes ;) Thx again.
The answer is yes
Lol. As you might guess with a channel name like mine, my audience has a deeper curiosity 😉
I seen it on iron planet I thought what a good project didn't realize the price
Yeah it didn't end up being a "project" price, but it's run flawlessly for me so far so I'm happy with it. Thanks for watching either way!
being you changed out that oil before running a bunch threw the hyd i would think you will be ok the other thing you got the tractor cheap enough if you do have to put some money in it for flood repair you still come out in the good i would think a year ago i bought a used kubota and had to put some money in it to bring it up to my likeing
Yeah that's the hope! All good so far and I'm glad to hear your tractor is working out for you too. 🙌
Are there any more for sale?
Nope, auction was over 2 days a couple of months ago. But there are auctions constantly there, so you have to keep an eye out. The auction site was ironplanet.com
@@LetsOverthinkThis thank you
That airfilter told you everything u had to know...just change out all oils, regrease, drain fuel, clean alternator and starter..weird they didnt sell with wheels. Pretty pricey imo...will last you way longer that a green one.
Well, they don't come from the factory with wheels on and the dealer said they all floated away in the flood! No joke.
@@LetsOverthinkThis yeah, the factory probably sends the wheels out in another form of crate ...kinda makes sense that they floated away now that you mention it. Still, you got a good machine...zero damage! Its a score...what was your total savings VS new? 7 to 10 k all in?
Are you sure those lug nuts are on the right way around? You usually tapered lug nuts go taper side in
Totally sure? No. Pretty sure? Yes ;) I've commented on this a bunch, but basically the deal is most Kubota wheels have a conical depression to fit the cone on the lug nuts, essentially making it a lug-centric fit. But my wheels are thick, solid, flat metal with no accommodation for a cone shape, and have a centering hub in the middle, thus making them essentially hub-centric. Turning them around would give me less mating surface area but not accomplish anything else. Since Kubota packs the nuts with the tractor and not with the wheels, they have cones in case you have those wheels, but my belief is I'm better off with them this way for *my* wheels. So that's the thinking :) At any rate, thank you for watching and for the comment!
@@LetsOverthinkThis okay it sounds like you know what you're doing. If there aren't matching tapered areas in the wheel then you have the lugs correct. I saw that it was hub centric but some wheels are hub centric and have tapered areas for the lugs and I couldn't tell from the video whether yours did or not. Usually the lugs will match the wheels but of course in this case you bought your wheels separately so that isn't necessarily the case. Even if those wheels were originally designed for tapered holes having them flipped around like that shouldn't be a problem.
@@LetsOverthinkThis Already responded to this point. I am on your side. A learning curve of what to show on the next videos.
Smartass comment from an old geezer who's father taught him what needed to be seen in Instructional films in the 1950s, (you are already learning this from mentioning the things you did not video) video in the 60s, was a driving instructor on all wheeled vehicles to an advanced level and had the privilege of learning from an engineer/tool maker and the only 2 mechanics in over 50 years I could trust to do the job properly on how to check, test, what I was driving was fit.
Doing well. Keep asking awkward questions till you get the real answer!
@@DoRC "having them flipped around like that shouldn't be a problem". Please don't embarrass yourself in public with such statements. Best keep your lack of experience to yourself.
@@dukwdriver2909I did only grow up learning every day from a professional mechanic who started in the Air Force and owned his own shop from the 1960s until retiring in the early 2000s. I also only have about 25 years of professional mechanic experience myself.
Since I'm so inexperienced please tell me exactly what about my statement was wrong. Sources cited would be appreciated.
Do the front axel
I mentioned I checked the axle oil and it looked fine. What do you recommend I do? Thx for commenting btw 👍
When changing oil cardboard is your friend.
It is for sure. Not sure where my head was when I worked on that but you're definitely right.
@@LetsOverthinkThis I'm still learning lol.
By the way Great video!
Nice😁😁😁😁
So far it's been great!
What kind of money does it take to get something like this??
All of that was in the video!
@@LetsOverthinkThis really, I’ll have to re watch. Did he say how much he paid for the tractor?
WOW I rewatched and no idea how I missed that part. It was probably one of my dogs demanding my attention. 😂😂
I so wish I would have seen these auctions.
New s here!! Make more videos like this
Glad you liked it!
I would bar the engine over first, save some broken parts if it’s hydro locked.
This is a very good idea and it did occur to me but I honestly wasn't sure id be able to tell with the super high compression ratio of a diesel. Could have pulled the glow plugs too but it wasn't super easy to access. But you're right, that would have been the smart call!
Yep, the lug nuts are on backwards.
Read the comments below, they aren't. No conical seats in my wheels for the cone. Most of Kubotas wheels have a conical seat but mine don't. Even the Kubota parts diagram shows them on this way if the wheels don't have those recesses ....
Where those front lug nuts on backwards? Typically the cone portion faces the rim to aling it properly and because the flat on rim doesn't allow you to tighten it properly. I will also say as a kubota owner , the first oil / filter and fluids change will be absolutely disgusting, metal flakes everywhere and all sorts of junk in it, Don't worry it's normal
Thanks for the comment! I don't believe they're on backwards, though this comment comes up many times a day. Can't get fully into it every time but my wheels don't have conical seats for the lug nuts like most of Kubota's wheels, so I believe mine center more on the hub than on the lugs. No point in reversing mine since there is no seat for them... all that would do is give me less mating surface area. But I appreciate the comment and the heads-up on the oil changes!!
@@LetsOverthinkThis You are right!....Proves I read all comments and don't just "sound off".
looks like you put front lug nuts on backwards
Thx for the comment! I know why people think that but my wheels don't have conical seats for the cone like many of Kubotas wheels do. Read any of my responses to this same comment below ...
No wheels and tires were on big expense. Wouldn't have been so bad if you got the wheels and tires.
True but none of that was a surprise!
@@LetsOverthinkThis Who wants flood and sun perished tyres?
To bad it didn't have a loader.
Yeah but it does now 😉
During my career I dealt with thousands of flood vehicles. Vehicles in floods are always salvaged by insurance companies for good reasons. You dodged a bullet.
At least for now ;)
It's not a vehicle. It's a tractor. He did his due diligence. The water obviously did not get that high.
I would not feel comfortable paying any more than 1/4 of retail for that or equal to its parting out value.
Yeah we're not all the same person 😊
@@LetsOverthinkThis Agreed. The manufacturers rely on people wanting the "safe, warm teddybear feeling" of a guarantee; that "Mummy will make it all better, no worries". Shame when that means it is not covered or, the dealer keeps it for months to repair it.
I think the sharp part of the lug nuts goes towards tractor.
Hey there. Yeah, a commenter yesterday pointed that out and I wasn't sure which way it should go since the wheels I've seen with the lug-nuts the other way have conical depressions in them that the point seats in (maybe the R14's?) but my wheels did not, so I choose to seat them with the largest surface-area part of the nut facing it. Do you have R4's?
@@LetsOverthinkThisThe conical depressions are caused by tightening the lug nuts in the proper orientation. They should be turned over with cones facing inwards.
@@jasonjackson6055 Eh, I'm not sold. Some of the wheels (like the R14 ones) very clearly already have a conical depression (such as: www.messicks.com/images/parts/167/ku_70000-000280.webp ). My wheels are totally flat metal mounted on a totally flat flange with no gaps. Nothing is making a conical depression in my wheels in this scenario unless it's a die and a hydraulic press ;) It may very well be that the nuts should be reversed, but my wheels have no affordance for them and those depressions won't appear if I do so. I do appreciate the comment though!
@LetsOverthinkThis Run them backwards if you wish.
BTW having dug in further, I pulled the parts assembly diagrams for the wheels Kubota puts on this tractor and should mention that on wheels that have conical seats, the cone faces in, but on the wheel that is flat as has no conical seat (like mine), Kubota's assembly diagram shows it the way I installed it, with the cone facing out and maximizing contact surface area. I have no real way of knowing if this is "right", but in the spirit of learning, it feels like a useful piece of info for anyone referencing this.
No way I would pay that much for a tractor you can’t get any information about other than it was in a flood you have bigger 🏈 or I’ll leave it at that hope it works out for you and lasts you a long time
Yeah to be honest it wasn't the smartest idea. I did also have 28 photos from the auction that I deduced a bunch of info from, but not something I'd recommend :) So far, so good though!
I would never buy a flood damaged vehicle. The electrical system is permanently damaged and will be forever problematic.
👍
This isn't a vehicle. It is a utility tractor. He'll be fine as long as he flushes that hydraulic, engine oil, and cleans the fuel tank...
If it was salt water I would never even risk it. Freshwater though it should be fine.
Too true, on a modern vehicle with EMUs etc. Tell it to my 1944 DUKW, (designed working life, 90 days) 80 next year and ticks over like a Swiss watch. Does need a smear of grease and oil regularly though. Global warming and increasing floods. Guess how many people want to be my "friend".
You certainly lucked out by going against conventional wisdom of NEVER buy anything car, tractor that was in a flood. My 73 year old brother was a tractor mechanic starting out then worked in new car dealerships before owning his own business and never ran into a flooded machine worth having. All had been fully imersed though. I have four Kubotas and would love to have a smaller one like yours, but the prices now are just too high.
Yeah that is the conventional wisdom, and for very good reason. So far, so good, but time will tell!
not sure you noticed you put your lug nuts on backwards on the front
I don't think I did 😉 Ive responded to this comment too many times to do it again, but reasoning below in any of the previous comments. Either way very much appreciate the comment!
Best you get a little experience and knowledge before making such comments.
You put the lug nuts on backwards!!
Maybe :) Read any of the comment threads about this below. Summary, not-so-sure since I don't have conical pockets for them like most of Kubota's wheels do.
You know so little. Best take the quiet corner.
@@LetsOverthinkThis if you don’t have the pockets for them then you have them on I guess correctly I just don’t know why Kubota would make tapered lug nuts without them being used
"I just don’t know why Kubota would make tapered lug nuts without them being used" well, I think it's just because they only include one set of lug nuts with the tractor in a standard prep kit, and the tractor doesn't come from the factory with the wheels on. Many of their wheels DO have a pocket for them, but some don't. So I think they made a universal nut knowing you'll just use the side that works with whatever wheels the tractors got paired with. Thanks for watching and for the comment, btw!
@@LetsOverthinkThis I was thinking that as well thanks for a cool video ! I wish they had more of those auction machines, I’d buy one
You state that your audience asks what things cost even though it is "totally irrelevant". I couldn't disagree more, especially for this video. This video is a story of you taking a risk on a flood damaged tractor to save some money. Determining "if it was worth it" is the main plot vehicle of the video. Without knowing what you paid, the viewer would have a frustrating guessing game using context clues trying to determine your cost. To your credit, you did include it, but the way you presented it almost makes the viewer feel guilty for wanting to know a critical piece of information. Good video otherwise. 😂
This is a totally fair point of view and I hear you! It's foreign to me, since essentially nobody will be in the identical position again, it's not their money, the value of money is extremely relative, and to me the main interesting things are seeing a kubota in delivery state and the intrigue of whether it will run. Whether or not a stranger saved a few bucks on a decision they made to me is truly irrelevant, but again, I very much hear you that many people do not share my point of view. I think I'm somewhat tired of it since in my well drilling video people have asked about the cost (no joke) probably 50 times and I don't get that *either*. What it will cost for them to drill a well would be (literally) 1/10th or 10x what it cost me but for some reason people none-the-less are persistent in wanting to know. This, of course, just proves your point that it's of interest and the fact that I think it's irrelevant is moot. I think I resist because how much these things cost seems to color people's learning and takeaways when for the most part I'm just trying to convey bits of info or learnings or explorations but hey, people want to know what they want to know ;)
Anyway, thanks for watching and commenting!
You put your lug nuts on backwards
I've commented on this many times (even today), but I didn't. These wheels don't have conical seats for the cone side, like most of Kubota's wheels. More detail in the other comments :)
No. A tractor will much better survive a flood than a car. change all the fluids &
replace all electronic components like the dash cluster.
!
Thanks for the comment! Definitely not replacing all electronic components unless something fails; so far it's all working perfectly, but keeping an eye on things and may need to in the future.
Why? Did you graduate from the University of Google? Think you are suffering from "excessive green and crusty" disease not based in fact of experience.
So, $13k for the tractor. Then add wheels and tires, canopy, front loader. And then your time and expense picking it up. It's pretty much the same as a new tractor price?
It's not, since the price I showed on Kubotas site doesn't include a loader or canopy either. If you subtract the cost of the wheels and tires (which it does include), mine is about 8k or so less expensive. Whether it's worth it is a personal thing. 😉