Thank you for the easy-to-follow tutorial! What size were the caliper bolts? Haven't found a single tutorial that mentions it! I'm guessing a 17..? Hopefully this goes smoothly tomorrow - replacing both front driver and passenger.
I'm going to try and sneak one more video in before the new year. Lots of stuff going on right now, but I think I should be able to get at least one more up. Thanks for watching, and a very happy holidays to you and yours as well!
Nice job with the video! On mine, the drive shaft spline would NOT separate from the bearing wrecked a drive shaft puller and a heavy duty punch and used a couple of cans of PB Blaster but no luck. Ended up buying a new knuckle and replaced both the axle and knuckle/bearing (and ball joint). A couple of notes: when replacing the driver's side shaft: when it's pried out, some tranny fluid comes out; make sure the seal is OK before putting in the new axle. When installing the new drive side axle, point the open end of the snap ring (on end of axle) down before installing and put some tranny fluid on the drive shaft end. Push it in till it clicks and make sure it's in by pulling it with your hand (it shouldn't come out easily). Good Luck!
Thank you for adding that info! Do you live in a rust prone area? Just curious if rust is what stuck yours on there. I would also add that it's a good idea to look at that bushing if your CV is galled at all.
Thanks! Was following along and had to double check why mine immediately started leaking. I'll give that seal a check too! (Good I hope I don't have to edit this after messing something up, I still have the other side to do too)
@@89G I certainly will! Any advice on getting the passenger side inner joint out? Im replacing both because that side needing doing and they're both old. Also, are the new one supposed to be a tad rough/sticky to swivel? I'm borderline concerned it's not packed with grease because the joint just doesn't move around as smoothly as the old ones
@c.d.w.3944 I've actually never done the inner before, so I'm not much help there. On all of them I've installed, I've always been able to kind of "hear" the grease inside the boot when I move it around. Nothing gritty, but yeah... a little sticky.
Thank you for the video! You make it look as easy as I hope it's gonna be. Side note, I thought I recognized the mountains in the background, so I trolled the recent car show season video and knew that was/is the court house. Then I was like, wait! I'm THS '89! Is the channel name a coincidence? I moved many states away the day after graduation...
Thank you for the feedback! I am not THS alumni, but I did go to Hunter on the other side of the mountain. I moved over here in 2017 after living in Salt Lake my whole life. The Eight Nine name is derived from my 89 Mustang... The "Boyz-n-the-Hood" song has lyrics that call his 64 Impala a "Six Four". So, my friends named my car The Eight Nine.... and it stuck. Thanks for watching, much appreciated!
That would be cool! Camped in there and settlement as a boy scout...I've lit the "T", remember the flood, and hiked little mountain too many times. The lit xmas tree on top is always nice
I've got it down pretty good. Too many bad boots on Autozone CV's have made me replace them more often than I'd care to. Thanks!! Let us know how it goes.
I actually replaced these control arms prior to starting the channel. I was not doing half shafts at the time, and I simply held them up and out of the way with a bungee cord. If I was doing both jobs at once, I'd pull the half shaft, remove/replace the LCA, then stab the half shaft. I really wish I had filmed that job... it's actually not too bad - provided you aren't dealing with a bunch of rust. If you have any more questions, let me know!!
@@89G thanks for the fast response! I'm sure with 300K+ I'll be dealing with some rust. Just paid my shop a chunk to replace the carrier bearing because as small as I am, getting under there to work is a tight space with no lift. This seems like a doable "driveway" job with the right tools and a couple of floor jacks.
@@smileyginger1 yes it is definitely a driveway job. Two floorjack's will make it a lot easier, that's for sure. For what it's worth, I used the Mevotech LCA's from Rock Auto, and they've been solid for 4 years.
I have an 01 I’m replacing it on. Looks very similar, but there’s a small gap between the Axel and transmission. I replaced it with an aftermarket version and within two days I was getting the same noises that it was the Axel again. Is the Axel supposed to be completely pressed against the transmission or is that gap I had normal and I have some sort of other issues ripping my Axel apart?
There is a gap in there. I don't recall how much. Was your axle brand new or a reman? I put a reman in a family members car, and it made noise again shortly after.
I just replaced mine last night and now I’m hearing a grinding noise when I make a tight, slow turn. I followed the same procedure. I did have to undo my sway bar, that was the only difference. Not sure what I did wrong 🥲
@@ceciliatrevino8524 check and make sure the backing plate didn't get bent. I just had this happen on my Toyota... the backing plate was ever-so-slightly touching the rotor, making a grinding noise.
Can you explain what you mean? I want to be sure I answer your question. What I believe you're calling a stub shaft is part if the CV assembly. Or do you mean the nut on the shaft?
@@89G thanks for the response. I don't know if links work but the warning on mine looks like this images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/documents/pre/femalejointintermediateshaftreused.pdf also called the intermediate shaft. My axle came out with the shaft and the new axle came with a shaft....
@@rem437 I don't think just that end piece will come off how they show it. I used the one that came on the shaft though. Mine was from Autozone, and I didn't have any documentation like that.
@@89G Thanks, you've been really helpful. I also just used the one that came with the axle I got from RockAuto. Mind if I hit you with another question It's kind of related? How do you keep the nut on the tie rod end from spinning instead of tightening against the knuckle?
@@rem437 no problem! Glad to help. On the tie rod, I've done it two ways... actually three, technically. I have had success tapping it up in there with a 3 lb hammer while getting it started with my impact. I've also used my second floor jack to create pressure. I've has success with both of those methods... but on my Brothers old Escape, we just replaced the tie rod. It was too far messed up inside.
Thank you for the easy-to-follow tutorial! What size were the caliper bolts? Haven't found a single tutorial that mentions it! I'm guessing a 17..? Hopefully this goes smoothly tomorrow - replacing both front driver and passenger.
The caliper brackets are 18mm headed bolts. Great question! Let me know if you have any others, and thanks for watching!
Might see another show before holidays! So just wanted to say happy holidays!
I'm going to try and sneak one more video in before the new year. Lots of stuff going on right now, but I think I should be able to get at least one more up. Thanks for watching, and a very happy holidays to you and yours as well!
Nice job with the video! On mine, the drive shaft spline would NOT separate from the bearing wrecked a drive shaft puller and a heavy duty punch and used a couple of cans of PB Blaster but no luck. Ended up buying a new knuckle and replaced both the axle and knuckle/bearing (and ball joint). A couple of notes: when replacing the driver's side shaft: when it's pried out, some tranny fluid comes out; make sure the seal is OK before putting in the new axle. When installing the new drive side axle, point the open end of the snap ring (on end of axle) down before installing and put some tranny fluid on the drive shaft end. Push it in till it clicks and make sure it's in by pulling it with your hand (it shouldn't come out easily). Good Luck!
Thank you for adding that info! Do you live in a rust prone area? Just curious if rust is what stuck yours on there. I would also add that it's a good idea to look at that bushing if your CV is galled at all.
Thanks! Was following along and had to double check why mine immediately started leaking. I'll give that seal a check too!
(Good I hope I don't have to edit this after messing something up, I still have the other side to do too)
@@c.d.w.3944 That inner bushing can go bad and wipe out the seal... I'd inspect that while you're in there.
@@89G I certainly will! Any advice on getting the passenger side inner joint out? Im replacing both because that side needing doing and they're both old.
Also, are the new one supposed to be a tad rough/sticky to swivel? I'm borderline concerned it's not packed with grease because the joint just doesn't move around as smoothly as the old ones
@c.d.w.3944 I've actually never done the inner before, so I'm not much help there. On all of them I've installed, I've always been able to kind of "hear" the grease inside the boot when I move it around. Nothing gritty, but yeah... a little sticky.
Very interesting. I didn’t know you had an Escape. Good job! Looks like hard work.
I actually have two. An 06 and a 2011. I have a motor mount video coming, and a rear window motor video coming for the 2011.
Sounds good! I hate doing motor mounts.
@@gregdiiamond3899 these aren't too bad... but I'd still rather work on a Fox Body 😆 🤣
Great work
Thanks
Thank you for the video! You make it look as easy as I hope it's gonna be.
Side note, I thought I recognized the mountains in the background, so I trolled the recent car show season video and knew that was/is the court house. Then I was like, wait! I'm THS '89! Is the channel name a coincidence? I moved many states away the day after graduation...
Thank you for the feedback! I am not THS alumni, but I did go to Hunter on the other side of the mountain. I moved over here in 2017 after living in Salt Lake my whole life. The Eight Nine name is derived from my 89 Mustang... The "Boyz-n-the-Hood" song has lyrics that call his 64 Impala a "Six Four". So, my friends named my car The Eight Nine.... and it stuck. Thanks for watching, much appreciated!
Right on! I enjoyed seeing parts of my hometown. Better yet. I'm enjoying the videos, keep them coming!
@@linuxster sure thing! I did a Middle Canyon drive last night. I may post some of the GoPro footage from that.
That would be cool! Camped in there and settlement as a boy scout...I've lit the "T", remember the flood, and hiked little mountain too many times. The lit xmas tree on top is always nice
@@linuxster that is really cool! I'll have to get it in a video soon!
Well done bud!
Thank you, Buddy! Much appreciated 🙏
I've done a few of these. Good work.
Awesome intro! How'd you make that?
My friend @unboundclassic did it for me. I'm not sure what he used. I'm sure he'll answer though. 😃
Thank you !!! Mad wit look so easy I think I can actually do it 😅😅
@@DammitJay thank you! It's not bad if you have the tools! Hit me up if you have any questions!
Just 1 question will this same method work for the rear cv axle? Thanks for the response!
@@DammitJay it will be very similar, yes. They are longer than the front CV's, but same basic principles apply.
Ok cool!! I just got the part and tools I need I’m going in ! lol 🙏🏾
@@DammitJay hahaha, good luck!
Thanks for the tutorial! Nothing to it... it took me longer to torque everything and clean up than it did to install it! Peace!
You're very welcome! Glad to help! I've got more Escape videos on the way.
thank you... I will try it your way. seems to be quicker and easier,
I've got it down pretty good. Too many bad boots on Autozone CV's have made me replace them more often than I'd care to. Thanks!! Let us know how it goes.
if you were doing both the half shaft and the control arms, what'd be the best order of disassembly/reassembly?
I actually replaced these control arms prior to starting the channel. I was not doing half shafts at the time, and I simply held them up and out of the way with a bungee cord. If I was doing both jobs at once, I'd pull the half shaft, remove/replace the LCA, then stab the half shaft. I really wish I had filmed that job... it's actually not too bad - provided you aren't dealing with a bunch of rust. If you have any more questions, let me know!!
@@89G thanks for the fast response! I'm sure with 300K+ I'll be dealing with some rust. Just paid my shop a chunk to replace the carrier bearing because as small as I am, getting under there to work is a tight space with no lift. This seems like a doable "driveway" job with the right tools and a couple of floor jacks.
@@smileyginger1 yes it is definitely a driveway job. Two floorjack's will make it a lot easier, that's for sure. For what it's worth, I used the Mevotech LCA's from Rock Auto, and they've been solid for 4 years.
I have an 01 I’m replacing it on. Looks very similar, but there’s a small gap between the Axel and transmission. I replaced it with an aftermarket version and within two days I was getting the same noises that it was the Axel again. Is the Axel supposed to be completely pressed against the transmission or is that gap I had normal and I have some sort of other issues ripping my Axel apart?
There is a gap in there. I don't recall how much. Was your axle brand new or a reman? I put a reman in a family members car, and it made noise again shortly after.
Thanks for the video. It helped me a lot with my ride 👍🏼
You're very welcome. I'm glad to hear it helped. Thanks for the feedback!
When I took my 2004 escape cv axle, a lot of transmission fluid came out . Is it normal?
@ezequielportuondo6166 yes, that's normal. Just be sure to top it off when you're done.
Great demonstration no bulshit looks easy enough I'm doing mine today thank you
Thank you and good luck!
I just replaced mine last night and now I’m hearing a grinding noise when I make a tight, slow turn. I followed the same procedure. I did have to undo my sway bar, that was the only difference. Not sure what I did wrong 🥲
@@ceciliatrevino8524 check and make sure the backing plate didn't get bent. I just had this happen on my Toyota... the backing plate was ever-so-slightly touching the rotor, making a grinding noise.
@@89G thank you !!🙌🏽
@ceciliatrevino8524 no worries. Let me know!
Did you reuse the stub shaft here? My axle came with a big, all capitals warning to reuse it but the new one looks exactly the same
Can you explain what you mean? I want to be sure I answer your question. What I believe you're calling a stub shaft is part if the CV assembly. Or do you mean the nut on the shaft?
@@89G thanks for the response. I don't know if links work but the warning on mine looks like this images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/documents/pre/femalejointintermediateshaftreused.pdf also called the intermediate shaft. My axle came out with the shaft and the new axle came with a shaft....
@@rem437 I don't think just that end piece will come off how they show it. I used the one that came on the shaft though. Mine was from Autozone, and I didn't have any documentation like that.
@@89G Thanks, you've been really helpful. I also just used the one that came with the axle I got from RockAuto. Mind if I hit you with another question It's kind of related? How do you keep the nut on the tie rod end from spinning instead of tightening against the knuckle?
@@rem437 no problem! Glad to help. On the tie rod, I've done it two ways... actually three, technically. I have had success tapping it up in there with a 3 lb hammer while getting it started with my impact. I've also used my second floor jack to create pressure. I've has success with both of those methods... but on my Brothers old Escape, we just replaced the tie rod. It was too far messed up inside.
This is not easy. His was easy.
What was different with yours?
You got you a big old oil leak
Yeah.... I fixed that after the video. I got rid of the stupid oil cooler.
Just pull lower bj bolt seperate pop out axle 20 minutes done
@@u0only0live0once thanks!