You dont need to do all that. Take the wheel off. Take the axle nut off. Take the pinch bolt out that holds the ball joint. Pop the ball joint out. Knock the CV axle out of the wheel hub. Pop the axle out of the transmission. To install reverse procedure. Takes 20 minutes. And less labor. I'm in this to make money. Not to work harder. Thank me later
You can skip removing the sway bar links, the shock mounting bolts and the caliper by disconnecting only the lower ball joint. Two 15mm sockets on the single bolt. Hit control arm with a hammer to drop it out There is enough play to remove the CV axle. Remember to torque to spec!!!
One thing you only mentioned, but didn’t show, was how to get the drive axle separated from the Intermediate Shaft. You said use a chisel and a hammer, and made it sound simple, when in fact it took a lot of serious pounding to get it separated. At 5:27, when you say, “Just keep tapping it a little more...” and then the video switches to removing the shaft. That “tapping a little more”, and the force of the tapping, is more than was shown in the video.
Sitting on FIRST IN snowstorm in Minnesota brokedown in my escape. CV axle swung RIGHT out, waiting for tow truck.. ordering parts NOW thanks to YOU... cuz I will FIX
I would just appreciate if you use the actual names for the part. You kept saying "remove this," "Take this off." It wasn't until quite a ways into the video you even mentioned the steering knuckle and the strut mounts. I do appreciate your using the tool sizes.
Hi, I have a shudder/vibration when accelerating - worse if turning. I replaced the Driver's side CV axles and it got better. How common do the Passenger's side Inner/intermediate/jackshaft axle fail? Or is it most likely just the passenger side CV axle? Thanks
Sway Bar End Link won't go back into the hole? I came here to help a friend who is doing this himself in the driveway but had a problem with the alignment of the Sway Bar End Link. He was doing it in the driveway with only one side on a jack stand which puts the sway bar under tension causing the problem. Safely lift both sides to avoid this problem.
If you have trouble separating the axle shafts, remove the carrier bearing nuts and pull the whole assembly out of the transmission and put it in a vise to make it easier to separate. It still won't be easy but you won't have to scream or throw anything. Also the transmission will not leak fluid once the axle is removed.
Wow! A couple love taps and it popped off. I beat the heck out of mine. No go. Removed the I axle and put it in a vise and beat some more. Nothing. Used a sledge hammer. Nothing. Went and bought a new axle.
Is there a video somewhere for the right side axle seal replacement on a 2007 Mercury Mariner ? THis LH side doesn't present the same parts removal.....
I have a 2006 Ford Escape and I just had the drivers side axel replaced and now I noticed some transmission fluid is leaking from the area where the axle enters the transmission. Could this have happened from when the old axel was pulled off and its just excess fluid that pooled in the area or is there something else that could be wrong?
+Stevie M Thanks for watching! You will want to keep an eye on your transmission fluid level if it keeps leaking. If it continues to leak then something is not sealed up properly!
@@1AAuto It was replaced on Tuesday and didn't notice a leak until yesterday. I brought it back to my garage (I've been going there for years) and my mechanic took a look and sprayed the areas with a cleaner and told me to keep an eye out for two days and to bring it back if I notice it leaking. I honestly wouldn't have noticed but I did some shopping yesterday and parked the car on my concrete driveway and when I brought all my groceries into the house then put the car back in the garage I noticed an oil spot on the drive which was transmission fluid. After I went back to the mechanic and he sprayed the underneath with a degreaser. When I got home, I put the car in the garage and I put some cardboard under the engine and noticed a transmission fluid spot, went under the car and looked up from that spot and saw it was coming from where the axle went into the transmission. I just took the car for a quick ride to see if its still leaking and will check later. Do you think that this could just be residual fluid from when the old axle was pulled? or do you think its the axle seal? bushing? or both? or do you think the axle should just be reset?
@@1AAuto no worries, brought the car to my mechanic this morning. Turns out it was the seal that needed to be replaced but while the bushing looked clean we still changed that too since they also ordered it with the seal, no more leaks.
9:00 What is the shaft locking in to on the transaxle side? The inside of the CV axle that locks into the transaxle side doesn't look like it has anything but splines inside it. Does it just slide on and the steering knuckle nut is what keeps it in place? Why was it necessary to use a punch to pop it out? Shouldn't it just slide out?
I need help. I did this for my 2010 escape that had the clicking & both axles not engaging at the same time issue. the very few days after replacing. while driving the handling felt both axles were getting power nonstop and working perfectly fine and the truck was shifting better like if it was brand new. A week or so after that the truck went back into the old way how it was. Whenever I accelerate I feel on the steering wheel that both axles aren’t getting power and it takes longer to shift. Sometimes throughout the day I feel both axles working fine and truck accelerating and other times it’s like I’m limp mode but not really. What could the cause be?
Mine would not slide in. I believe the lock ring was swollen so I taped it carefully in with a thick towel and breaker bar so I wouldn't damage the boot. Just had to keep it lined up .
Are the parts the same regardless of drive type? e.g. FWD & AWD. I am looking at doing both front on a 2006 Escape 3L AWD, and see part kit 1AACS00063 listed, but doesn't say which drive type. I would assume both, but I would like to be sure. Thanks.
+Jim Bickerstaff At this moment, the closest how-to video we have to your request is for this vehicle, which is very similar to the one you have. The steps may not be 100% the same, but should contain an adequate amount of information necessary for accomplishing this task:
The guy included unnecessary steps cuz he replaced the damper/shock absorber and the sway bar link, here's what's actually necessary step by step: Take the wheel off, remove the axle nut, take the nut off the sway bar link ball joint bolt, remove the sway bar link, remove the axle from the wheel hub, remove the axle from the transmission side. Put the new axle in the transmission side, put the wheel hub on the axle and thread on the axle nut, reconnect the sway bar link, torque down the axle nut, put the wheel back on. Auto zone always overcharges, 1A auto is where it's at.
What's the name of the tool to shave the head of the shaft on the CV I know what it is but I cannot remember the name of it... If I recall it's a chamfering tool? I'm trying to remove a sized CV and I'm having the most difficult time 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Hello 1A, Thank you so much for this video on replacing the CV axle on the Ford Escape. Did the passenger side today, and replaced the brake pads right away as well. Took care of the ugly grinding noise, and saved me a load of money, which is helpful on these days. I had one question though. The drivers side CV axle is still in good shape, no noise, no tears in the rubber boots. Is it recommended, as with brakes and many other parts, to replace both sides, or can I skip the drivers side until that one starts acting up? (I have a lifetime alignment on the vehicle, so I am not concerned about having to pay for another alignment in a year or so). Thanks!
Hi, nice video, I have 2008 Mariner Hybrid. Not sure if CV shaft is bad. I feel some pulsing when breaking and a loud clunk just before coming to a stop. Initially thought brake pads bad, ordered pads, took wheel off and everything seems fine with brakes, plenty of bad left, so didn't change. There is quite a bit of play when rotate the rotor/hub back and forth with transmission in park. Does that seem like CV joint?
Check your boots. If the boots are good they're probably fine. That would be the inner CV joint if that's what the noise is about. Doesn't sound like it though
We just replaced the driver side axle on my 2010 escape after the job was finished we jumped in it to do a test drive, and the power steering is out! It was perfectly fine before replacing the axle. Any advice on what may have happened?
Could be the random loss of power steering recall. Check your vin for one. My 08 had the recall and EPS would come and go as it pleased, Ford replaced torque sensor free of charge (recall) haven’t lost power steering again since.
Hi, Thank you for your informative video. It helped me replace my CV Axle on my 2005 Escape. I did notice after I replaced it, that my 'O/D OFF' light, began blinking. It begins this after the first gear change. Blinks even if I engage it before driving off, or disengage it before driving off. Only stops blinking when I start it and before I begin moving. Its a FWD Automatic. I am wondering if I did something wrong, or if there is a quick fix? Or is this completely unrelated? Could the ABS sensor been damaged? or got dirt on it somewhere? Initially my CV Axle broke when my subframe broke apart. I replaced the subframe and then replaced the CV axle. Any suggests would be appreciated. Taras From Toronto Canada.
Taras Fedoriuk did you ever figure that issue out? Customer of mines jist did that after I replaced his driver side cv axle and now his trans appears to be leaking ?
+Fatboy Shadetree We don't have a how-to video for your the other side right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
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√ *Watch the Video*
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Love these videos where the removal is smooth as silk, and never any effort required. Very rare that it would come out that easy.
Yeah different story in the rust belt
@@nolangietzen4668 me watching him gently pull the axle out like butter 😮
You dont need to do all that. Take the wheel off. Take the axle nut off. Take the pinch bolt out that holds the ball joint. Pop the ball joint out. Knock the CV axle out of the wheel hub. Pop the axle out of the transmission. To install reverse procedure. Takes 20 minutes. And less labor. I'm in this to make money. Not to work harder. Thank me later
+Eddie Katura Thanks for the tip!
That's true bro...
You can skip removing the sway bar links, the shock mounting bolts and the caliper by disconnecting only the lower ball joint. Two 15mm sockets on the single bolt. Hit control arm with a hammer to drop it out There is enough play to remove the CV axle.
Remember to torque to spec!!!
I hate messing with balljoints. I just take the strut bolts out and the outer tie rod and just angle it to get the axle out of the hub. Works for me.
@@dandiegidio7729 Agreed...the Bjoints frequently are 'stuck' and in the time to fight it, I can have the two strut bolts out AND the axle.
One thing you only mentioned, but didn’t show, was how to get the drive axle separated from the Intermediate Shaft. You said use a chisel and a hammer, and made it sound simple, when in fact it took a lot of serious pounding to get it separated. At 5:27, when you say, “Just keep tapping it a little more...” and then the video switches to removing the shaft. That “tapping a little more”, and the force of the tapping, is more than was shown in the video.
Yeah it's a nightmare. I ripped the axle off and now I guess I'm going to use a slide hammer to get the rest off
Sitting on FIRST IN snowstorm in Minnesota brokedown in my escape. CV axle swung RIGHT out, waiting for tow truck.. ordering parts NOW thanks to YOU... cuz I will FIX
Bro how did you just pull it out? I've been stuck here for the past two hours trying to pry it out
At 9:02 you say to make sure the shaft "locks into place". Does it actually lock or do you mean just push it in as far as you can?
It locks in after a few good twist
I would just appreciate if you use the actual names for the part. You kept saying "remove this," "Take this off." It wasn't until quite a ways into the video you even mentioned the steering knuckle and the strut mounts. I do appreciate your using the tool sizes.
+The Gizer Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
Hi, I have a shudder/vibration when accelerating - worse if turning. I replaced the Driver's side CV axles and it got better. How common do the Passenger's side Inner/intermediate/jackshaft axle fail? Or is it most likely just the passenger side CV axle? Thanks
Sway Bar End Link won't go back into the hole?
I came here to help a friend who is doing this himself in the driveway but had a problem with the alignment of the Sway Bar End Link.
He was doing it in the driveway with only one side on a jack stand which puts the sway bar under tension causing the problem. Safely lift both sides to avoid this problem.
This is my problem right now. Might try and put the jack under the control arm and raise it a couple inches..
Crazy I found this comment.
When u pull out the old axle is the transmission fluid supposed to leak out
If you have trouble separating the axle shafts, remove the carrier bearing nuts and pull the whole assembly out of the transmission and put it in a vise to make it easier to separate. It still won't be easy but you won't have to scream or throw anything. Also the transmission will not leak fluid once the axle is removed.
+dan diegidio Thanks for the tip!
Omg thank you I didn’t even think of that
is ther a video of this? my cv axle is not budging at all its a bit rusty too
I read this and said wow, screaming and throwing things is exactly where I am at. Thank you! Let me try these carrier nuts and keep progressing
U guys have great videos . Thanks for helping us out while trying to save a buck by doing the job ourselves.
A slide hammer with an adapter that grips the axle works best for pulling the axle out.
Thanks so much for the informative
video..Mine was on a 2003 Mazda Tribute..keep up the good work.
+jerry martinez Thanks for checking us out!
Wow! A couple love taps and it popped off. I beat the heck out of mine. No go. Removed the I axle and put it in a vise and beat some more. Nothing. Used a sledge hammer. Nothing. Went and bought a new axle.
Is there a video somewhere for the right side axle seal replacement on a 2007 Mercury Mariner ? THis LH side doesn't present the same parts removal.....
+Daniel S. Oliverio We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1AAuto.com
I have a 2006 Ford Escape and I just had the drivers side axel replaced and now I noticed some transmission fluid is leaking from the area where the axle enters the transmission. Could this have happened from when the old axel was pulled off and its just excess fluid that pooled in the area or is there something else that could be wrong?
+Stevie M Thanks for watching! You will want to keep an eye on your transmission fluid level if it keeps leaking. If it continues to leak then something is not sealed up properly!
@@1AAuto It was replaced on Tuesday and didn't notice a leak until yesterday. I brought it back to my garage (I've been going there for years) and my mechanic took a look and sprayed the areas with a cleaner and told me to keep an eye out for two days and to bring it back if I notice it leaking. I honestly wouldn't have noticed but I did some shopping yesterday and parked the car on my concrete driveway and when I brought all my groceries into the house then put the car back in the garage I noticed an oil spot on the drive which was transmission fluid. After I went back to the mechanic and he sprayed the underneath with a degreaser. When I got home, I put the car in the garage and I put some cardboard under the engine and noticed a transmission fluid spot, went under the car and looked up from that spot and saw it was coming from where the axle went into the transmission. I just took the car for a quick ride to see if its still leaking and will check later. Do you think that this could just be residual fluid from when the old axle was pulled? or do you think its the axle seal? bushing? or both? or do you think the axle should just be reset?
and I just took a look and yes its leaking. Will bring it back to the mechanic tomorrow to have him fix it.
+Stevie M We do apologize but we wouldn't be able to properly diagnose this.
@@1AAuto no worries, brought the car to my mechanic this morning. Turns out it was the seal that needed to be replaced but while the bushing looked clean we still changed that too since they also ordered it with the seal, no more leaks.
Are those realy only for automatic or I can use them to manual transmission
9:00 What is the shaft locking in to on the transaxle side? The inside of the CV axle that locks into the transaxle side doesn't look like it has anything but splines inside it. Does it just slide on and the steering knuckle nut is what keeps it in place? Why was it necessary to use a punch to pop it out? Shouldn't it just slide out?
I need help. I did this for my 2010 escape that had the clicking & both axles not engaging at the same time issue. the very few days after replacing. while driving the handling felt both axles were getting power nonstop and working perfectly fine and the truck was shifting better like if it was brand new. A week or so after that the truck went back into the old way how it was. Whenever I accelerate I feel on the steering wheel that both axles aren’t getting power and it takes longer to shift. Sometimes throughout the day I feel both axles working fine and truck accelerating and other times it’s like I’m limp mode but not really. What could the cause be?
Mine would not slide in. I believe the lock ring was swollen so I taped it carefully in with a thick towel and breaker bar so I wouldn't damage the boot. Just had to keep it lined up .
How easy is it to snap the new axle back in to the transmission
Does it take alot of maneuvering? Or muscle power?
A lot easier to break that axle nut loose by leaving the tire on and popping the center cap out on the tire
Are the parts the same regardless of drive type? e.g. FWD & AWD.
I am looking at doing both front on a 2006 Escape 3L AWD, and see part kit 1AACS00063 listed, but doesn't say which drive type. I would assume both, but I would like to be sure. Thanks.
After you replaced the axle shaft, did you do the alignment also
Is the left side the same process? I have an axle that has a male end, but this one is female. '06 Mariner AWD
+Jim Bickerstaff At this moment, the closest how-to video we have to your request is for this vehicle, which is very similar to the one you have. The steps may not be 100% the same, but should contain an adequate amount of information necessary for accomplishing this task:
Hi if i just have seals leaking, is ut possible to replace just the seals?
Yes. Make sure the new seal will fit before taking the old one out or you will have to put the old one back in. I got a wrong part when I did that.
The guy included unnecessary steps cuz he replaced the damper/shock absorber and the sway bar link, here's what's actually necessary step by step: Take the wheel off, remove the axle nut, take the nut off the sway bar link ball joint bolt, remove the sway bar link, remove the axle from the wheel hub, remove the axle from the transmission side. Put the new axle in the transmission side, put the wheel hub on the axle and thread on the axle nut, reconnect the sway bar link, torque down the axle nut, put the wheel back on. Auto zone always overcharges, 1A auto is where it's at.
+Gabe Shaw Thanks for the feedback!
What's the name of the tool to shave the head of the shaft on the CV I know what it is but I cannot remember the name of it... If I recall it's a chamfering tool? I'm trying to remove a sized CV and I'm having the most difficult time 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Is there a seal
Hello 1A, Thank you so much for this video on replacing the CV axle on the Ford Escape. Did the passenger side today, and replaced the brake pads right away as well. Took care of the ugly grinding noise, and saved me a load of money, which is helpful on these days. I had one question though. The drivers side CV axle is still in good shape, no noise, no tears in the rubber boots. Is it recommended, as with brakes and many other parts, to replace both sides, or can I skip the drivers side until that one starts acting up? (I have a lifetime alignment on the vehicle, so I am not concerned about having to pay for another alignment in a year or so).
Thanks!
Good ?
Do yall sell sets for 2005 Ford escape 2.3L FWD
What kind of grease did you use?
Hi, nice video, I have 2008 Mariner Hybrid. Not sure if CV shaft is bad. I feel some pulsing when breaking and a loud clunk just before coming to a stop. Initially thought brake pads bad, ordered pads, took wheel off and everything seems fine with brakes, plenty of bad left, so didn't change. There is quite a bit of play when rotate the rotor/hub back and forth with transmission in park. Does that seem like CV joint?
Check your boots. If the boots are good they're probably fine. That would be the inner CV joint if that's what the noise is about. Doesn't sound like it though
We just replaced the driver side axle on my 2010 escape after the job was finished we jumped in it to do a test drive, and the power steering is out! It was perfectly fine before replacing the axle. Any advice on what may have happened?
Could be the random loss of power steering recall. Check your vin for one. My 08 had the recall and EPS would come and go as it pleased, Ford replaced torque sensor free of charge (recall) haven’t lost power steering again since.
Hi, Thank you for your informative video. It helped me replace my CV Axle on my 2005 Escape. I did notice after I replaced it, that my 'O/D OFF' light, began blinking. It begins this after the first gear change. Blinks even if I engage it before driving off, or disengage it before driving off. Only stops blinking when I start it and before I begin moving. Its a FWD Automatic. I am wondering if I did something wrong, or if there is a quick fix? Or is this completely unrelated?
Could the ABS sensor been damaged? or got dirt on it somewhere? Initially my CV Axle broke when my subframe broke apart. I replaced the subframe and then replaced the CV axle.
Any suggests would be appreciated.
Taras From Toronto Canada.
Taras Fedoriuk did you ever figure that issue out? Customer of mines jist did that after I replaced his driver side cv axle and now his trans appears to be leaking ?
Try in unhooking the OD 🔌 plug that clips on to the transmission and disconnect the battery hopefully that can reset the CPU
Not sure why you disconnected the sway bar end link?
How does seal on trabsmission come off?
+Paul C We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Or gentle persuasion. Things to look and feel for
My axel will not come out of the wheel hub. I resorted to a 3 jaw puller, and it still won't separate.
Is this the same for 07 explorer? Why don't you have a video for the front
+Bill Stuetzle We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1AAuto.com
How can I loosen a stripped bolt from the knuckle .. I have a tribute 08...
Stripped bolt remover sockets. Tap them onto the stripped bolt or nut and turn with a ratchet or impact. Irwin makes a good set.
Mine isnt just popping out..
ya very funy video. mine is not budging at all. i tried everything pry bar n hamer then jus the hamer then a dent puller. shit aint comin out.
Is there any difference for the other side? Driver side?
+Fatboy Shadetree We don't have a how-to video for your the other side right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Tank you
Got the drivers side rotor on the passenger side lol. Away never towards the primary rotation.
The rotor. Need change. Side
Second video i watch and both área RIGHT SIDE.
I need take off LEFT side
+Karolusin Gómez We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
You should have taken the caliper off before and a wire coat hanger works just as good for a hanger
Doesn’t look to bad just mine is rusty so ill put rust penitent on it a day in advanced
Just replace the boot
Apparently my shaft doesn't look like that at the end and doesn't come off as easily
Easier to pull bottom bolt than 2 top ones.
Ive noticed you changed the strut as well. Dont do that. If you are going do a video on 1 thing dont edit your video from a part you changed.
haha they never just pop out like that
You are not a competent mechanic.