your plans sound expensive so you've got a new Patreon now ;-) , just saw the jet-ski plans there. I'll support you during the time you build watersport stuff just because i love it especially the board related stuff
For heat dissipation, make the bottom of the box aluminum with the fins for the board and flush with the bottom. Thermal paste as many hot components directly to the plate before bolting down. Combined with your water cooling system to pick up the slack, the bottom plate can pull double duty as heat sink and fins.
@@FollowRevolutionNine Not anywhere near the batteries, they must be allowed to heat up to a working temperature (60°c max!), there are aluminium water-cooling blocks for battery compartment. You need something practical, his water-cooling can work absolutely fine, just need some tuning.
I’m a 67 year-old guy and you are a great inspiration to me! Because of you and your extremely helpful (and humorous) videos, I built a motorized kayak using a 70mm water jet thruster, the same 400a ESC, 56114 motor, and 4 6000maH batteries, with motor and ESC cooling. It’s a BLAST!!! And all thanks to you for pioneering the way! Thanks so much for all of the many hours of enjoyment I’ve had so far!! ❤️
When hammering in press fit bearings, always use a socket or something to push on the outside race. Don’t hammer on the inside race, this puts all the force through the ball bearings and damages them before they even get used. It can leave flats on the balls or dents in the races and makes them crunchy and wear out fast. Cool project man, liked 👍🏻
Yeah, as a mechanic, that made me cringe. I, however, don't expect everyone to know everything about everything. I hope he reads this and learns something new. :)
Very cool, I used oil bearing seals on 3d printed jet drives and they work well but the seal that is not cooled by water tends to heat up and wear out. The issue i had on my electric surfboard is it was built too wide and heavy, while very stable it wasn't fast. Have you thought about using power tool batteries? I'm using 4 dewalt 9000mah batteries. Great video as usual and engineering 👏.
Power tool batteries generally are liion cells which typically can't output anywhere near as much power as a lipo, although they do have more capacity for the same size
@@H.J.B There's a new generation of lipo tool batteries, have seen them from Dewalt who seem to be very big on the advantages... might be something that becomes more standard.
@@lemagreengreen the other thing would be the cost difference compared to just buying a lipo so like unless the tool batteries are that much more valuable to you than lipos and smaller tool batts. Also the connectors on tool batteries aren't generally meant for thousands of watts
As someone who is heavy into 3D printing and the 3D printing community this might be the coolest thing I have ever seen. Congratz dude. Absolutely amazing. Even tho you didn't model everything yourself you still made the thing work.
I've never even heard of an electric surf board. This is such a cool idea and a great execution. One thing I'd add is using lightweight PLA might help waterproofing a little bit because it foams up a little filling in all the pores and holes in a 3d print. I'm surprised at just how well it works already. I hope you can get those cooling issues in order for the second impeller.
That's a good idea using LWPLA - I'd have expected that with the foaming, it would end up with more pores overall? It'd be very interesting to see the results though, and more lightness can never be a bad thing
@@roseroserose588 it's a bunch of little bubbles of air, thus creating a matrix of closed cells. The usual issue with normal prints leaking is probably from delamination of layers along their weakest axis, which I'm not sure LWPLA would improve on. The weight savings would be good, but maybe a fiberglass coating would be more watertight and strong in a final version.
What about ABS and vapor treating it in one of those huge (mostly) airtight containers with the foam seals? Most of his plastic pieces don't seem to have a huge amount of detail and the treatment would only have to penetrate a tiny bit to create an effective seal
@@elyasstephens8242 ABS is a bit of a nightmare to print - especially with something so large, but for the best results it is probably the way to go as it'll also be uv resistant and last a lot longer to boot. Without post-processing resin i think would be the most water-tight option, but then size becomes an issue again
Love the update. I made my own surfboard based on your original design but replaced the 53mm impeller with a 70mm impeller. I also simplified by going with a single drive instead of a dual drive. My biggest problem on initial testing was my buoyancy, it was more submarine than boat. I added rigid foam to the bottom and sides to also assist in stability. It worked great. I must say you make it look easy to ride but it took me the better part of a morning to just stay on it for a minute without falling off. My next improvement will be the battery compartment, to make it completely waterproof and allow the space for more batteries.
Twin drive are always easier to ride as a single prop going clockwise or counter clock wise pushes the water away from the center of the board the board will then have a tendency to drift left or right and your balance is not used to compensating for that sideways push. Whereas if you have both left and right spinning props the forces will mostly cancel each other out meaning most of the force ends up being centered behind the board making it far more natural for our balance systems to adjust to and making riding comparatively speaking a breeze. Ofc its still a skill that needs to be learned buts it is much easier to learn.
I am so glad that at some point in the past, a random video of this channel got recommended to me. As I am heavily invested in other hobbies, it is truly a joy to see what you are tinkering with!
very awesome dude, looks like a whole lot of fun, I never got into surfing because the waves never lasted long enough for me to enjoy it, but this, this would be fun.
@@MrSupermugen Bearings should *ONLY* be pressed in and removed by the outer ring!!! Otherwise it can damage & mis-align the bearings internal alignment and raceway!!!🙄 PS--Best method is to find a wrench socket that *ONLY* contacts the outer ring, attach to a socket extension rod and tap into place with a deadblow hammer/mallet for proper bearing seatment!!!
The journey you take us on with the builds is always worthy of a like. I'm a person that likes quick closure, although your projects might have future iterations, the videos always have that 'complete journey' feeling. I'd blow more smoke up your a$$ but I think those motors might end up doing that for you haha. Thanks for the content
This is very cool. 👍 A recommendation, create a stand alone propulsion system like this, but make it clamp on to what ever you want. A surf board, kayak, small boat etc, and then you will have something that is universal and more people will want it.
I have been shopping around for something exactly like you describe, that i can just mount to the side, or ideally both sides, of my sit in kayak. No way I want to deal with a huge trolling motor type pole, nor to cut any holes in my boat. Ideally I dont want to deal with any steering linkages either. With the application of differential differential thrust and a small 3d printed body (which I could modify if needed to best fit my kayak), I think all the problems are solved. I wonder how much that 3d printed metal impeller x4 costs?
@@gutrali I don't think differential thrust would have enough authority to actually turn, unless the impellers were pretty far apart from the centerline. I figure that with the distance needed for turning with differential thrust, it would end up looking more like a catamaran.
@@gutrali I don't see a reason why you couldn't print the impellers from CF nylon or polycarbonate. Also I agree with the commentor above that differential thrust wouldn't work on something as long and narrow as a kayak. A simple rudder at the back can easily be added and would work much better.
Great video as always! Love your work. 1:33 a bearing should always be inserted by hitting the OUTER ring, not the inner ring. This could damage the new bearing easily. Might not be as bad when working with plastic instead of metal but still made me wanna comment. Otherwise, very nice work
Congrats! I wanted to build that 10y ago to learn about the limits,,you saved me a lot of work. I recommend to use LiFePo4 cells like A123, because they can deliver the high current without damaging the cell. And you can recharge them fast. Regarding the board, there should be room to lower the water contact surface to safe energy, may be a catamaran-like double glide surface underneath to tunnel some air or so. Of course, a foil is unbeatable, but i like the surfboard conept (cheap works, in flat water...).
72V system would solve a lot of problems. It would drop your amperage while increasing your power available. There are some very reliable and affordable 72v motors on eBay.
I have a 1981 "SurfJet"; a 2-stroke gas engine impeller based surfboard. It goes about 40km/hr if you're < 200lbs. It however, is about the size of modern day paddle boards. So, why not swap from the longboard style to a paddle board - this would allow for more components, likely even able to store the batteries inside the board itself (they're thicker than a longboard) and overall be better. Mind you, you may lose agility and response but what you lose, you gain in a much longer run time. Just my thoughts - keep the videos coming!
Well I think the point is that the surf board is nimble and responsive. I'd rather take the speed and agility over a big, heavy, slow paddle board. Age probably is a factor in preference, nonetheless
Love it, fantastic job and super interesting! Also, have you thought about adding a bilge pump? Possibly adding an angled v shape in the back of the housing going to a little 12V pump inlet may help with the water intrusion. The natural acceleration and angle would help force all of the water down to the inlet. Again, fantastic job!
@@Vousie would you not agree that keeping the electronics away from water is a good idea? It doesn't take water very long to screw up stuff if it gets into the wrong place. I'd say the less chance of water damage the better.
Create a heatsink that sits in the water and removes heat from the esc and the motor. All that cold water your displacing could be cooling the electronics!
To physically link the heat sink to the motor and the electronics and also keep everything water tight would probably be challenging. WOuldnt mind watching him try though.
@@gutrali Motor heatsinks or jackets are a thing, so there I wont see a problem. Making the base out of metal or a metal plate with heatsink fines could be bigger challenge. But with the help of the new 3D printer metal sponsor, this could all be made out of one or two pieces with some CPU paste or cooling pads.
@@gutrali Use heat pipes. You can buy them in all lengths and they are very efficient at transfering heat. I would mount all the ESCs to a copper base und use heat pipes to get the heat out underneath where they connect to a heatsink.
Great video! How about doing that with an eFoil board? I am curious to see if there is an efficiency increase with the wings under the water compared to a jet-surfboard
With housing montage only put pressure at the outer ring, and axle montage the inner ring, else you're forcing the other one down by putting pressure on the bearings. Deforming them, and you start off with a bearing with the damage you would ve had at a 1000 working hours... Vice and rubber hammer would be a massive improvement to begin with✌🏻👊🏻
Hello from the UK. Brilliant bit of kit you have made. I have posted to my friend with a printer to see what he can do. I want to make a jet drive mini boat out of beautiful mahogany I have. Old jet ski units are over kill for my needs. A great bit of content, many thanks.
Amazing! I would recommend to take advantage of the water around you to cool everything down. You can use a heat exchanger to keep everything waterproof! This is pretty cool project!
That's super cool. Would it be hard to make this in such a way that there's no box sticking out on top? Also, with this design it might be smart to add in channels and a hard edge like wakeboards have them for carving
I mean... someone could do an old school wood surfboard kinda like an electric guitar and then fit the motor drive and impellers into the structure. If you designed the whole thing from scratch, maybe CNC cut the body, you could have very smooth transition lines and such and make it all fit cleanly. Im on the other side of the world or id offer to use my cnc to cut the guy a body, but I'm sure there's gotta be someone with a 10 foot machine in his neck of the woods that could hog him out a simple surfboard body with a hollow set up for his electronics and mechanical bits.
Very cool project, love to see how it grows! But I saw at 11:00 that you are converting DC to AC back to DC just to charge the batteries. A DC to DC charger would probably be more efficient less of a fire risk and less cables aswell! I know ISDT has a couple good ones that may work well for that matter, like the P30 :D But the project you have going is very nice!
Exactly, I charge my batteries directly from my car battery, made a simple XT60 adapter with large alligator clips, it's working great. My guess is that he knows it, many TH-camrs do things "wrong" to generate more comments.
You might want to use hybrid ceramic bearings so they don’t seize up. Also replacing the ones in the motors is a good idea. I made a robotic fish and ran into this problem early on. (Worse in a pool tho)
I bet if you go on the site pcbway has it set up to give a quote, but last I heard their printing service isn't that expensive, even in metal. May be worth looking into if you need something sturdy. :)
Outstanding, well literally! I can only imagine the freedom you feel flying across that lake, awesome. And a fantastic build, subbed definitely, keep up the amazing work my friend 🙂
02:39 - One easy way of reversing the motor direction (say in the field with no access to the software) is to just swap any two of the three motor wires. This will reverse the motor rotation.
Great work. Stout impellers! Are they 100% infill or did you go lower to save weight? So cool PCBway can do that for us. Thanks for all the detail man! Loved the ID joke, haha.
You can't really do anything except 100% infill with metal sintering, because if you create an infill pattern the gaps will just be full of metal powder that hasn't been melted together and can't get out. Metal powder weighs the same but doesn't add any strength so it's literally useless. You can make hollow parts if you incorporate drain holes into the design so the powder can leak out when you're done but something like an infill pattern would trap it all in.
@@AlRoderick With sintering you actually could, the metal powder fdm prints you sinter in an oven afterwards. But with this laser melting you'd have to leave a hole somewhere I guess.
I love building things that nobody believes will work. The older you get, the less time you have to indulge your fantasies. That is a beautiful ride, and I would love to ride one. I would love even more the feeling again when you put it together and it works. It's a real Rush both inside and out. Take care and God bless. Intelligence and perseverance will get you a long ways, but I lack both.
I think it'd be cool (as a future project) to make the surfboard from scratch and along the spine have a large aluminium bottom container for the batteries (so that they can be passively cooled by the water underneath, and you can fit more without taking up space for standing). Also, you could make the base of the motor compartment aluminium and connect problem parts (like the ESC) to it either directly with strong mounting pressure and thermal paste, or with a heat pipe (you can get cheap ones online, although bending them can be a bit of a hassle I believe).
I used to have XT90 in my electric moped but they became very hot. Now I switched to Anderson Connectors (red). Now the cable is more hot than the connectors. Good luck with your projects. Like them alot🙂!
Great Job, I made also an electric surfboard based on yours last winter. It works well but indeed reliability is a big one. One day it works and next day i go to the water something is wrong. Its nice to see you made an update about yours! I also have a heat issue, I cant drive longer than 6 minutes before everything gets too hot. I choose to run Li-ion batteries on 18S 16P. It gives me around 12 to 15 mins of play time. (but need to cool down twice to not let it overheat). I will try your tip by first cooling the motor and then the esc! Mine first goes to the esc since that saved some tubing. I also noticed I should stand more in front of the board, I have the same style of board (long and thin) I think it is not the most efficient design for an electric surfboard. by standing in front of the board (slowly moving forward while driving) it becomes much more efficient for me since the heavy backside of the board doesnt go that deep in the water. Maybe a tip for you.? 🙂 It also gives more speed too, haha
It was cool to see this video after not watching you for a while, to notice that you’re launching from your raft that you built! Your hard work leads to cool stuff that increases with magnitude when you use said cool stuff to do other cool stuff 😎 keep it up!
The maker of the jet drives it very good at making them. I have made the jet boat that he has designed and I use 6s in it. It is very fast! Highly recommend building one.
Rc test flite had a really nice way of spinning propellors and getting a good seal around the propellor shaft. Could take some inspiration from that if you’re still having trouble with water inside
![[Live] : ONE FIGHT NIGHT 22 วันนี้!! "สมิลลา vs นาตาเรีย"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Hmzh7heFvx8/mqdefault.jpg)
Liking the video tends to make it a little more popular so I would appreciate that very much. Working on a hydrfoil and electric jet ski next.
Dude you forgot about the discord server!!!
I was thinking about an hydrofoil while watching this video !
Electric jetski would be sick.
try electric contact grease on your xt90's should help them conduct a little more
your plans sound expensive so you've got a new Patreon now ;-) , just saw the jet-ski plans there. I'll support you during the time you build watersport stuff just because i love it especially the board related stuff
For heat dissipation, make the bottom of the box aluminum with the fins for the board and flush with the bottom. Thermal paste as many hot components directly to the plate before bolting down. Combined with your water cooling system to pick up the slack, the bottom plate can pull double duty as heat sink and fins.
I like this a lot. There are thermal transfer adhesives that could help so you don't get stuck using computer paste.
What about putting a chunk of dry ice into the box?
Im no expert but, i think Instead of thermalpaste he could use soldering and stainless steel.
@@FollowRevolutionNine i'd be worried about condensation inside the box from going sub ambient
@@FollowRevolutionNine Not anywhere near the batteries, they must be allowed to heat up to a working temperature (60°c max!), there are aluminium water-cooling blocks for battery compartment.
You need something practical, his water-cooling can work absolutely fine, just need some tuning.
I’m a 67 year-old guy and you are a great inspiration to me! Because of you and your extremely helpful (and humorous) videos, I built a motorized kayak using a 70mm water jet thruster, the same 400a ESC, 56114 motor, and 4 6000maH batteries, with motor and ESC cooling. It’s a BLAST!!! And all thanks to you for pioneering the way! Thanks so much for all of the many hours of enjoyment I’ve had so far!! ❤️
How long of run time and what speeds are you getting ?
Thats awesome 👌
When hammering in press fit bearings, always use a socket or something to push on the outside race. Don’t hammer on the inside race, this puts all the force through the ball bearings and damages them before they even get used. It can leave flats on the balls or dents in the races and makes them crunchy and wear out fast. Cool project man, liked 👍🏻
That's a great tip, I'll have to use that on one of my own projects
Checked before i commented myself😅
Those bearings are already damaged before the project starts...
Only valid for bearings in external housing, do the opposite when mounting on a shaft
Yeah, as a mechanic, that made me cringe. I, however, don't expect everyone to know everything about everything. I hope he reads this and learns something new. :)
i came to say this
Great work, amazing creativity! If you are our engineer, I believe our products will be stronger!
Very cool, I used oil bearing seals on 3d printed jet drives and they work well but the seal that is not cooled by water tends to heat up and wear out. The issue i had on my electric surfboard is it was built too wide and heavy, while very stable it wasn't fast. Have you thought about using power tool batteries? I'm using 4 dewalt 9000mah batteries. Great video as usual and engineering 👏.
Power tool batteries generally are liion cells which typically can't output anywhere near as much power as a lipo, although they do have more capacity for the same size
Try use fkm/viton seals, they can withstand twice us much heat ar regular NBR and are more resistant to wear
@@H.J.B There's a new generation of lipo tool batteries, have seen them from Dewalt who seem to be very big on the advantages... might be something that becomes more standard.
@@lemagreengreen the other thing would be the cost difference compared to just buying a lipo so like unless the tool batteries are that much more valuable to you than lipos and smaller tool batts. Also the connectors on tool batteries aren't generally meant for thousands of watts
This is tough😯.,.,.
th-cam.com/video/gmu5KY-ykv4/w-d-xo.html
As someone who is heavy into 3D printing and the 3D printing community this might be the coolest thing I have ever seen. Congratz dude. Absolutely amazing. Even tho you didn't model everything yourself you still made the thing work.
I enjoy it he way you explain what needs to be explained.
Nothing more.
These videos are easy watches and I’m not even skipping through.
I've never even heard of an electric surf board. This is such a cool idea and a great execution. One thing I'd add is using lightweight PLA might help waterproofing a little bit because it foams up a little filling in all the pores and holes in a 3d print. I'm surprised at just how well it works already. I hope you can get those cooling issues in order for the second impeller.
It is!!!! So cool and sick
That's a good idea using LWPLA - I'd have expected that with the foaming, it would end up with more pores overall? It'd be very interesting to see the results though, and more lightness can never be a bad thing
@@roseroserose588 it's a bunch of little bubbles of air, thus creating a matrix of closed cells. The usual issue with normal prints leaking is probably from delamination of layers along their weakest axis, which I'm not sure LWPLA would improve on. The weight savings would be good, but maybe a fiberglass coating would be more watertight and strong in a final version.
What about ABS and vapor treating it in one of those huge (mostly) airtight containers with the foam seals? Most of his plastic pieces don't seem to have a huge amount of detail and the treatment would only have to penetrate a tiny bit to create an effective seal
@@elyasstephens8242 ABS is a bit of a nightmare to print - especially with something so large, but for the best results it is probably the way to go as it'll also be uv resistant and last a lot longer to boot.
Without post-processing resin i think would be the most water-tight option, but then size becomes an issue again
Вот это проектище! Как всегда отлично! Один из лучших каналов Ютуба.
не то что у тех чуваков у академика за 800.000 рублей... вообще жесть конечно там и принцип другой но все же
@@DimaLegoFUN Цифры не главное. Круто же получилось согласись.
This is freaking awesome! Young, talented and fearless engineers like that give humanity hope.
Love the update. I made my own surfboard based on your original design but replaced the 53mm impeller with a 70mm impeller. I also simplified by going with a single drive instead of a dual drive. My biggest problem on initial testing was my buoyancy, it was more submarine than boat. I added rigid foam to the bottom and sides to also assist in stability. It worked great. I must say you make it look easy to ride but it took me the better part of a morning to just stay on it for a minute without falling off.
My next improvement will be the battery compartment, to make it completely waterproof and allow the space for more batteries.
Twin drive are always easier to ride as a single prop going clockwise or counter clock wise pushes the water away from the center of the board the board will then have a tendency to drift left or right and your balance is not used to compensating for that sideways push. Whereas if you have both left and right spinning props the forces will mostly cancel each other out meaning most of the force ends up being centered behind the board making it far more natural for our balance systems to adjust to and making riding comparatively speaking a breeze. Ofc its still a skill that needs to be learned buts it is much easier to learn.
please make a video of it.
This was awesome! Next project needs to be a E-Foil!
I am glad to see how nicely it worked out!
I am so glad that at some point in the past, a random video of this channel got recommended to me. As I am heavily invested in other hobbies, it is truly a joy to see what you are tinkering with!
I really loved this build. Well explained and a great execution. Really would love to build a trailer for my ebike myself
very awesome dude, looks like a whole lot of fun, I never got into surfing because the waves never lasted long enough for me to enjoy it, but this, this would be fun.
Its time to create your own E-Foil! This 3d printed impellers looks amazing!
Absolutely loved this video and the fact that you're transparent in what you used.
Epic builds you have man! Great work and thanks for sharing this awesome project and all the stuff you learned on the way!
can't wait for the foiling version!
You don't hammer in a bearing on its inner ring, you have to always push it on the outer ring or else you might damage the bearing.
It's only plastic, if the bearing was going into a Super quality metal fitting then yes.
@@MrSupermugen Bearings should *ONLY* be pressed in and removed by the outer ring!!! Otherwise it can damage & mis-align the bearings internal alignment and raceway!!!🙄
PS--Best method is to find a wrench socket that *ONLY* contacts the outer ring, attach to a socket extension rod and tap into place with a deadblow hammer/mallet for proper bearing seatment!!!
@@fookingsog cool. but its plastic, if the bearing cant stand that lateral load then your using the wrong bearing.
Plus... there plastic.... he can make a new one with 3d printing. And I don't thinks he cares since he's not going to be using it 24/7
Well done Sir! Appreciate all the links provided as well. Just got a 3d printer and this is great.
The journey you take us on with the builds is always worthy of a like. I'm a person that likes quick closure, although your projects might have future iterations, the videos always have that 'complete journey' feeling. I'd blow more smoke up your a$$ but I think those motors might end up doing that for you haha. Thanks for the content
This is very cool. 👍
A recommendation, create a stand alone propulsion system like this, but make it clamp on to what ever you want. A surf board, kayak, small boat etc, and then you will have something that is universal and more people will want it.
Great idea. A universal "power pack" for anything that floats (and you want to go FAST).
I have been shopping around for something exactly like you describe, that i can just mount to the side, or ideally both sides, of my sit in kayak. No way I want to deal with a huge trolling motor type pole, nor to cut any holes in my boat. Ideally I dont want to deal with any steering linkages either. With the application of differential differential thrust and a small 3d printed body (which I could modify if needed to best fit my kayak), I think all the problems are solved. I wonder how much that 3d printed metal impeller x4 costs?
@@gutrali I don't think differential thrust would have enough authority to actually turn, unless the impellers were pretty far apart from the centerline. I figure that with the distance needed for turning with differential thrust, it would end up looking more like a catamaran.
@@gutrali I don't see a reason why you couldn't print the impellers from CF nylon or polycarbonate.
Also I agree with the commentor above that differential thrust wouldn't work on something as long and narrow as a kayak. A simple rudder at the back can easily be added and would work much better.
@@coriscotupi yeah that's what I was thinking for a kayak, one motor unit hanging off of each side
Absolutely love these videos, keep up the amazing work man ❤️
Good design man. I LOVE seeing people using 3d printed metal parts, its the future of manufacturing. Minimal waste, maximum flexibility.
Great job.!!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills.
“I am all alone, I have helmet, life west and ID, so it easier to identify the body. “
That had me laugh a bit to hard! 😂
Great video as always! Love your work.
1:33 a bearing should always be inserted by hitting the OUTER ring, not the inner ring. This could damage the new bearing easily. Might not be as bad when working with plastic instead of metal but still made me wanna comment.
Otherwise, very nice work
I can't hold my rage, lmao
Congrats! I wanted to build that 10y ago to learn about the limits,,you saved me a lot of work. I recommend to use LiFePo4 cells like A123, because they can deliver the high current without damaging the cell. And you can recharge them fast. Regarding the board, there should be room to lower the water contact surface to safe energy, may be a catamaran-like double glide surface underneath to tunnel some air or so. Of course, a foil is unbeatable, but i like the surfboard conept (cheap works, in flat water...).
Riktigt kul med alla projekt du håller på med! Kul att du lyckats växa din kanal så mycket. Bra jobbat!
72V system would solve a lot of problems. It would drop your amperage while increasing your power available. There are some very reliable and affordable 72v motors on eBay.
I have a 1981 "SurfJet"; a 2-stroke gas engine impeller based surfboard. It goes about 40km/hr if you're < 200lbs. It however, is about the size of modern day paddle boards. So, why not swap from the longboard style to a paddle board - this would allow for more components, likely even able to store the batteries inside the board itself (they're thicker than a longboard) and overall be better. Mind you, you may lose agility and response but what you lose, you gain in a much longer run time.
Just my thoughts - keep the videos coming!
I dont think space is the biggest issue here. The batteries are over $120 a pop, thats over $160 per minute of runtime
Well I think the point is that the surf board is nimble and responsive. I'd rather take the speed and agility over a big, heavy, slow paddle board. Age probably is a factor in preference, nonetheless
A gold star to to the camera drone operator, great job - maybe a gold star to the surfboard engineer too 🙂
Always amazing content. I appreciate your time and patience for those who ask questions. Keep up the great work.
Love it, fantastic job and super interesting!
Also, have you thought about adding a bilge pump? Possibly adding an angled v shape in the back of the housing going to a little 12V pump inlet may help with the water intrusion. The natural acceleration and angle would help force all of the water down to the inlet.
Again, fantastic job!
Thought the same. Should be the easier solution that actually sealing this whole array with its different components and all different young's modulus
It has a 3 min runtime... Easy enough to just tip it out when you've finished.
@@Vousie would you not agree that keeping the electronics away from water is a good idea?
It doesn't take water very long to screw up stuff if it gets into the wrong place. I'd say the less chance of water damage the better.
Create a heatsink that sits in the water and removes heat from the esc and the motor. All that cold water your displacing could be cooling the electronics!
Had the same idea, can’t recommend it enough.
To physically link the heat sink to the motor and the electronics and also keep everything water tight would probably be challenging. WOuldnt mind watching him try though.
@@gutrali Motor heatsinks or jackets are a thing, so there I wont see a problem. Making the base out of metal or a metal plate with heatsink fines could be bigger challenge. But with the help of the new 3D printer metal sponsor, this could all be made out of one or two pieces with some CPU paste or cooling pads.
@@gutrali Use heat pipes. You can buy them in all lengths and they are very efficient at transfering heat. I would mount all the ESCs to a copper base und use heat pipes to get the heat out underneath where they connect to a heatsink.
The sound of those parts coming together is the best ASMR!
So good. The board, the drone flying, raft, all of it.
Great video! How about doing that with an eFoil board? I am curious to see if there is an efficiency increase with the wings under the water compared to a jet-surfboard
Those exist
@@reeleasy8670 so do electric surfboards, what’s your point?
Great video as always!
1:30 Just a tip: bearings should not be hammered in place. for best results, use a vice or at least a rubber hammer.
With housing montage only put pressure at the outer ring, and axle montage the inner ring, else you're forcing the other one down by putting pressure on the bearings.
Deforming them, and you start off with a bearing with the damage you would ve had at a 1000 working hours...
Vice and rubber hammer would be a massive improvement to begin with✌🏻👊🏻
Hello from the UK. Brilliant bit of kit you have made. I have posted to my friend with a printer to see what he can do. I want to make a jet drive mini boat out of beautiful mahogany I have. Old jet ski units are over kill for my needs. A great bit of content, many thanks.
Amazing! I would recommend to take advantage of the water around you to cool everything down. You can use a heat exchanger to keep everything waterproof! This is pretty cool project!
That's super cool. Would it be hard to make this in such a way that there's no box sticking out on top? Also, with this design it might be smart to add in channels and a hard edge like wakeboards have them for carving
He could have totally put all of those components inside the board itself.
I mean... someone could do an old school wood surfboard kinda like an electric guitar and then fit the motor drive and impellers into the structure. If you designed the whole thing from scratch, maybe CNC cut the body, you could have very smooth transition lines and such and make it all fit cleanly. Im on the other side of the world or id offer to use my cnc to cut the guy a body, but I'm sure there's gotta be someone with a 10 foot machine in his neck of the woods that could hog him out a simple surfboard body with a hollow set up for his electronics and mechanical bits.
Very cool project, love to see how it grows! But I saw at 11:00 that you are converting DC to AC back to DC just to charge the batteries. A DC to DC charger would probably be more efficient less of a fire risk and less cables aswell! I know ISDT has a couple good ones that may work well for that matter, like the P30 :D But the project you have going is very nice!
Exactly, I charge my batteries directly from my car battery, made a simple XT60 adapter with large alligator clips, it's working great. My guess is that he knows it, many TH-camrs do things "wrong" to generate more comments.
@@Eden_M Are you suggesting connecting the lipos directly to a 12v car battery without a charger?
@@Chris-du7hiHell no, use your car battery as a power supply for your smart charger, I'm using ISDT Q8 and Turnigy Mega 400x2.
This is so cool, can't wait to see v3
Thanks for this updated… i nearly rebuilded your V1
You might want to use hybrid ceramic bearings so they don’t seize up. Also replacing the ones in the motors is a good idea. I made a robotic fish and ran into this problem early on. (Worse in a pool tho)
The main question I think everyone wants to know is how much did you paid for 3d printed metal parts? PS this is one of the best educational builds!
I bet if you go on the site pcbway has it set up to give a quote, but last I heard their printing service isn't that expensive, even in metal. May be worth looking into if you need something sturdy. :)
@@NeoIsrafil So What You think aproximatly IT was 20 or 200$?
Outstanding, well literally! I can only imagine the freedom you feel flying across that lake, awesome.
And a fantastic build, subbed definitely, keep up the amazing work my friend 🙂
This is great. Good work. Also thank you drone operator.
02:39 - One easy way of reversing the motor direction (say in the field with no access to the software) is to just swap any two of the three motor wires. This will reverse the motor rotation.
He knows that (maybe the motors are sensored)
he definitely knows that
Bro They Are sensored
Great work. Stout impellers! Are they 100% infill or did you go lower to save weight? So cool PCBway can do that for us.
Thanks for all the detail man! Loved the ID joke, haha.
You can't really do anything except 100% infill with metal sintering, because if you create an infill pattern the gaps will just be full of metal powder that hasn't been melted together and can't get out. Metal powder weighs the same but doesn't add any strength so it's literally useless. You can make hollow parts if you incorporate drain holes into the design so the powder can leak out when you're done but something like an infill pattern would trap it all in.
@@AlRoderick Great point, thanks for the explanation!
@@AlRoderick With sintering you actually could, the metal powder fdm prints you sinter in an oven afterwards. But with this laser melting you'd have to leave a hole somewhere I guess.
always great stuff.. thank you for all your hard work and sharing your build info.
thank you for sharing this with us!!!
1:32 Hear the bearing scream in pain while being mounted from the wrong ring :'(
(love your videos and projects but this is just painful to watch)
I love building things that nobody believes will work. The older you get, the less time you have to indulge your fantasies. That is a beautiful ride, and I would love to ride one. I would love even more the feeling again when you put it together and it works. It's a real Rush both inside and out. Take care and God bless. Intelligence and perseverance will get you a long ways, but I lack both.
I think it'd be cool (as a future project) to make the surfboard from scratch and along the spine have a large aluminium bottom container for the batteries (so that they can be passively cooled by the water underneath, and you can fit more without taking up space for standing). Also, you could make the base of the motor compartment aluminium and connect problem parts (like the ESC) to it either directly with strong mounting pressure and thermal paste, or with a heat pipe (you can get cheap ones online, although bending them can be a bit of a hassle I believe).
He's done a great job! I appropriate so much and I wish to have one for my own!
Cool idea 👍 I'm right now working on motorized paddle board but I'm not looking for as fast version but definitely much longer time.
Polishing the impellers will help a ton. That thing moves. Great stuff.
what a smart chap, lovely guy too....
Cool project as always! I hope all is going well for you, keep up the good work!
Great Vid man. Always blown away by what youtube makers come up with.
GREAT JOB Dude, you made the most difficult things looking pretty easy 😎
Awesome job man. Thanks for sharing so much details :)!
Super cool. Run time seems short, but really cool that you made this largely from 3D printed components.
Thank you so much Sensei! You are a blessing!
Äntligen Svenska youtubers med riktigt content, fortsätt med det du älskar!
I used to have XT90 in my electric moped but they became very hot. Now I switched to Anderson Connectors (red). Now the cable is more hot than the connectors.
Good luck with your projects. Like them alot🙂!
Brilliant. What Fun. Pure Engineering Genius
This was Awesome.. Good Job. I've always dreamed of something like this. So Cool Man.
buenísimo!! muchas gracias por compartir el secreto dentro de tu Electric surfboard 😃
Absolutely bonkers! I love my electric longboard, and this is just next level!
Great video! Love all your stuff. Keep em coming 😃 thank you!
You are amazing at engineering honestly
Thank you very much man, seriously you helped a lot i started from 0 to 10.
Lots of work, but vary cool. Nice job.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Sjukt imponerande som vanligt! Alltid ett nöje att kolla dina videos!
Great Job, I made also an electric surfboard based on yours last winter. It works well but indeed reliability is a big one. One day it works and next day i go to the water something is wrong.
Its nice to see you made an update about yours!
I also have a heat issue, I cant drive longer than 6 minutes before everything gets too hot. I choose to run Li-ion batteries on 18S 16P. It gives me around 12 to 15 mins of play time. (but need to cool down twice to not let it overheat). I will try your tip by first cooling the motor and then the esc! Mine first goes to the esc since that saved some tubing.
I also noticed I should stand more in front of the board, I have the same style of board (long and thin) I think it is not the most efficient design for an electric surfboard.
by standing in front of the board (slowly moving forward while driving) it becomes much more efficient for me since the heavy backside of the board doesnt go that deep in the water. Maybe a tip for you.? 🙂 It also gives more speed too, haha
Incredible work, and excellent explanation or how it works!
Brilliant work.
Great progress Simon, I really enjoyed the video. Keep it up ❤️
Legendary BROTHER !!! JUST AWESOME !!!
Brilliant. Looks like a ton of fun
Great job. That thing is sick!
Fantastic work - great video of the surfing too !
It was cool to see this video after not watching you for a while, to notice that you’re launching from your raft that you built! Your hard work leads to cool stuff that increases with magnitude when you use said cool stuff to do other cool stuff 😎 keep it up!
Awesome results..
really enjoyed it....... my blessings & best wishes to you!!!
The maker of the jet drives it very good at making them. I have made the jet boat that he has designed and I use 6s in it. It is very fast! Highly recommend building one.
sweet project working great 👍
Rc test flite had a really nice way of spinning propellors and getting a good seal around the propellor shaft. Could take some inspiration from that if you’re still having trouble with water inside
lovely place
Cool!! I'm going to build one now!!
Great going!! All the very best!
Thank you!
Very cool! What is cooler than making your own Jetboard that WORKS!? Awesome project 🤘
Awesome build!