Hi Bill, just a tip, if when screwing metal screws into plastic parts you start off by turning the screw anti clockwise until you feel it drop into the existing thread you will never strip it. Regards from The Lighthouse Gorsebank and Bride Garden Railway on the Isle of Man.
Lovely model of 45106 painted in BR green with the Tinsley crest under the driver seat , first time i have seen a mainline loco , look quite smart , i take it the the tail lights come on when the loco is moving
Very similar motor arrangement to the old Mainline Warship. I spent many an hour stripping down non-working versions of their motors to make them run again - including much re-soldering of the many wires that used to come off in the process. Thankfully, I am yet to be defeated by one!
Hi Bill, I’ve just found your channel and what a breath of fresh air for our community. I saw in a previous video, your close up specs with lights, wow. Can you give me some info on them please. Regards Charlie.
Hi Charlie I am subbed to your channel nice you popped by. The specs are just cheap eye loupes off amazon www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07P6DFQPP/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_CSA42V9WS362N8X0GXV9 To be honest you're as well with a single eye loupe that jewellers use as I find I have to close one eye to get proper focus anyway. Still very useful to be able to see things really close up.
Before you've even started working on it, that's just about the best running mainline Class 45 I've seen. I've just rechassis'd mine with Bachmann running gear.
Hi Bill, I picked up a Replica Railways Class 45 last year and it wouldn't pull. Got advice from Gareth at Replica Railways, he recommended Hornby X8442 traction tyres for Class56. Also surprised at the small Ringfield motor, but it runs well now and pulls a train. Alan Curry
A very good looking locomotive you have there one of my all time favourite diesels also my dad saw every single one of these locomotives that were built and when you consider that there are 3 different classes of these locomotives the 44/45/46 that is quite an achievement.
Impressive stuff nice to see it running so well the problem with Peak's is getting all the wheels on the track at the same time. I always liked the Peaks, used to see alot of them in the Nottm / Derby area
Keeping the wheels on the rails was the reason they and class 40s were banned from some turnouts. Those dreadful bogies were the consequence of BR civil engineers insisting on limiting the axle load. Later the limit was raised so 47, 37, 55, 50 all Co-Co
One thing you'll realise with these Mainline Ringfield Motors is the gears tend to slip on the wheel shafts causing the loco to have no drive whilst the motor is running. I have a Mainline Blue Warship, nice looking loco but I may have to look at getting a Bachmann chassis for it.
The Mainline Warships are known for suffering from split gears, which means they lose traction. Replacements are available from a variety of sources, including Ultrascale (expensive, brass, long wait), Peter's Spares (I think, and they will be moulded), and at least one person on eBay selling a 3D-printed set. These are all certainly cheaper than a Bachmann chassis!
What grease and oils to use on your models is an interesting topic. After viewing many loco servicing videos on You Tube a common failing is that the grease used for gearing drying up. This seems to be the white grease (preumably lithium based) commonly used by the major manufactures. I now use Hob-E-Lube molybdenum grease instead of white grease for gearing. Only time will tell if this dries up but in the 8 years I have used it has not. Its drawback of course is that it is black and not clean looking like white. My understanding from my experience in the shipbuilding industry is that white greases are used where some element of corrosion protection is required at the expense of lubricating properties. Window and door manufactures recommend that their mechanisms are periodically greased with white lithium grease for a similar reason. You pay your money and make your choice.
Good comment Robert. I've been experimenting with different lubricants for a while as it was clear there was a lot of misinformation about. I've been using Hob-E-Lube "White Grease" recently as an experiment and it's a PTFE based lubricant and I will be trying Lithium based grease soon as well. I also use, and favour, Moly Grease but for old style worm and drive gears I find it too thin and it disperses too quickly as does silicon grease. The PTFE white grease seems to stick in place but I want to see how it dries. Most, if not all, lubricants used for model railway purposes were developed for other uses in industry. Model locos really need two types of lubricant. A lite oil and a sticky, low dispersal, grease. So far, I've yet to find the perfect grease but there are many suitable lite oils.
@@davidwatts1871 Sewing machine oil is tried and tested and absolutely fine it's just a lite oil. Vaseline is maybe a bit iffy though as there are reports of it degrading some plastics.
Have a look at Marklin traction tyres there much better quality and they're made in lots of different sizes so I'm sure you will find some that will fit.
Bill , a brilliant video but may I make a suggestion, check the wheel back to backs with your brass spacer tool as I have had issues with this on my Mainline 45s
The back to back on this loco is all over the place. I'll be doing another video on it soon. My spacer tool is 14.4mm but I'm not convinced that will be right for this loco. I will set it to 14.4mm and take it from there though.
@@oobill Hi Bill , I have exactly the same brass back to back guage as you. Try adjusting your loco's wheels to the tool's setting, I think you will be as surprised as I was!
Glad yours doesn't have the split-gear problem. However that does rob me of seeing how you would try and solve it! (lol) Perhaps I will send you one of my fleet in the future! (lol)
@@davidstrains4910 To be totally honest I've not even got around to taking the locos apart to see. I got back into the hobby about 14 months ago and since then have been on quite a collecting spree. The Peaks were all acquired cheap on ebay before I had the means to test them. The basic fault is that you try to run the locomotive and the gear on the axle creates enough tension that the motor cannot turn. After a few seconds (or a little shove) you can get the locos to start moving, but only for a short period of time before the issues with the axle overpowers the motor once more. I have a few like that and one that has been 'fixed', however, although this runs slightly better it still has the same issues, it's just the length of time between stalls is longer. The idea in my head is to try and push the gears back to their original profile and then glue thin plastic washers on either side, no idea if this will work. I've looked on the modelling forums and they all seem to suggest that the problem is pretty terminal and that the locos (Mainline Warships and Peaks) should just be binned. There was, for a short time. a company selling replacement axles. As a prerequisite to this the locos start making a clicking sound, which gets louder and louder until one day....
@@davidstrains4910 By pure chance Sam's Trains has just uploaded a video which shows the exact problem. The Bachmann John Bull & La Fayette video - and just skip to 9.40
@@locohauledforummost common fix for an issue like that is to take the wheels of the axle, then the gear apply a small amount put of superglue to the axle than drive the gear back onto the axle, wait for the whole thing to dry then that should be enough to get it going again.
@@locohauledforum Superglue may work, but I think it is regarded as a temporary solution. Don't know about the Peaks, but there is certainly a chap on ebay selling replacement 3D printed gears for the Warships, and I have seen others doing the same too (also Ultrascale, for premium brass, or possibly Peter's spares).
It looks like a really nice model for the age, but I've never owned one so I don't know what they're like to live with. It seems like a lot of hassle to dismantle and reassemble one. If the directional lighting is barely visible, then it's probably a bulb? You could upgrade that to an LED to make it easier to see and all that extra wiring more worth while.
Hi there Bill ,, I bought 2 of these a while ago and i was told that both were good runners and that was far from the case ,, 1 had the brushes barely touching and there was a heap of oil all over it and terribly dirty black oily commutator so I cleaned it got it running quite well on the bench but slow as a slug on the track. I noticed the one you have on your layout dosent look like it goes that fast either. Did you have it going max power as it looked like it was a slow runner. I was thinking it may be only 4 out of 16 wheels driving and only a little ring field motor powering it let alone the load of what it is towing. In saying this are these little motors compatible for a cd motor replacement conversion ? Then I attempted to fix the second 1 and omg what a nightmare no brushes or springs and stripped drive grears as well so do you know of anyone who does replacement gears or even the 3D printed ones would be a good start. Cheers from John in Australia.
It's noisy but not too noisy. I don't mind a little noise and after servicing this is fine. Not as quiet as my Hornby 29 but it's within the realms of acceptability. Just need to sort the wheels out...
I've read that someone has replaced the non powered bogie with a powered one, seems like a good idea. So I bought a spare bogie for mine, but I think this is a task beyond my set of skills.
00Bill, Could you let me know what traction tyres you use, as my Class 45 also requires some, peterspares said he didn't have any, and or a mainline loco doesn't have them? Many thanks.
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Hi Bill, just a tip, if when screwing metal screws into plastic parts you start off by turning the screw anti clockwise until you feel it drop into the existing thread you will never strip it. Regards from The Lighthouse Gorsebank and Bride Garden Railway on the Isle of Man.
I got one of these - I had it as a boy in the loft now - brings back alot of memories :))) thanks for uploading this vid.
Lovely model of 45106 painted in BR green with the Tinsley crest under the driver seat , first time i have seen a mainline loco , look quite smart , i take it the the tail lights come on when the loco is moving
Very similar motor arrangement to the old Mainline Warship. I spent many an hour stripping down non-working versions of their motors to make them run again - including much re-soldering of the many wires that used to come off in the process. Thankfully, I am yet to be defeated by one!
Hi Bill, I’ve just found your channel and what a breath of fresh air for our community. I saw in a previous video, your close up specs with lights, wow. Can you give me some info on them please. Regards Charlie.
Lovely to see you here too! I love your videos!
Hi Charlie I am subbed to your channel nice you popped by. The specs are just cheap eye loupes off amazon www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07P6DFQPP/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_CSA42V9WS362N8X0GXV9 To be honest you're as well with a single eye loupe that jewellers use as I find I have to close one eye to get proper focus anyway. Still very useful to be able to see things really close up.
Hi Bill, thanks for your honesty.
I shall stick with the Opti-visor, regards Charlie
Before you've even started working on it, that's just about the best running mainline Class 45 I've seen. I've just rechassis'd mine with Bachmann running gear.
Hi Bill,
I picked up a Replica Railways Class 45 last year and it wouldn't pull.
Got advice from Gareth at Replica Railways, he recommended Hornby X8442 traction tyres for Class56.
Also surprised at the small Ringfield motor, but it runs well now and pulls a train.
Alan Curry
wow a Peak what a great gift... runs nice now👍🏻
A very good looking locomotive you have there one of my all time favourite diesels also my dad saw every single one of these locomotives that were built and when you consider that there are 3 different classes of these locomotives the 44/45/46 that is quite an achievement.
Hi Bill, Nice one lucky man, All the Best Brian
Impressive stuff nice to see it running so well the problem with Peak's is getting all the wheels on the track at the same time. I always liked the Peaks, used to see alot of them in the Nottm / Derby area
Keeping the wheels on the rails was the reason they and class 40s were banned from some turnouts. Those dreadful bogies were the consequence of BR civil engineers insisting on limiting the axle load. Later the limit was raised so 47, 37, 55, 50 all Co-Co
Lovely Bill 👌👍
Bill glad you like her,you will eventually get it working just right.Personally I am not a Bachmann man.
you will be when hornby goes the same way as the Titanic
I was looking at one yesterday. Good detailed body on it. £40 sale price
One thing you'll realise with these Mainline Ringfield Motors is the gears tend to slip on the wheel shafts causing the loco to have no drive whilst the motor is running. I have a Mainline Blue Warship, nice looking loco but I may have to look at getting a Bachmann chassis for it.
The Mainline Warships are known for suffering from split gears, which means they lose traction. Replacements are available from a variety of sources, including Ultrascale (expensive, brass, long wait), Peter's Spares (I think, and they will be moulded), and at least one person on eBay selling a 3D-printed set. These are all certainly cheaper than a Bachmann chassis!
@@PeterJewell2 thanks will check that out
What grease and oils to use on your models is an interesting topic. After viewing many loco servicing videos on You Tube a common failing is that the grease used for gearing drying up. This seems to be the white grease (preumably lithium based) commonly used by the major manufactures. I now use Hob-E-Lube molybdenum grease instead of white grease for gearing. Only time will tell if this dries up but in the 8 years I have used it has not. Its drawback of course is that it is black and not clean looking like white. My understanding from my experience in the shipbuilding industry is that white greases are used where some element of corrosion protection is required at the expense of lubricating properties. Window and door manufactures recommend that their mechanisms are periodically greased with white lithium grease for a similar reason. You pay your money and make your choice.
Good comment Robert. I've been experimenting with different lubricants for a while as it was clear there was a lot of misinformation about. I've been using Hob-E-Lube "White Grease" recently as an experiment and it's a PTFE based lubricant and I will be trying Lithium based grease soon as well. I also use, and favour, Moly Grease but for old style worm and drive gears I find it too thin and it disperses too quickly as does silicon grease. The PTFE white grease seems to stick in place but I want to see how it dries. Most, if not all, lubricants used for model railway purposes were developed for other uses in industry. Model locos really need two types of lubricant. A lite oil and a sticky, low dispersal, grease. So far, I've yet to find the perfect grease but there are many suitable lite oils.
@@oobill So far, I've used sewing machine oil and vaseline.
@@davidwatts1871 Sewing machine oil is tried and tested and absolutely fine it's just a lite oil. Vaseline is maybe a bit iffy though as there are reports of it degrading some plastics.
Have a look at Marklin traction tyres there much better quality and they're made in lots of different sizes so I'm sure you will find some that will fit.
Bill , a brilliant video but may I make a suggestion, check the wheel back to backs with your brass spacer tool as I have had issues with this on my Mainline 45s
The back to back on this loco is all over the place. I'll be doing another video on it soon. My spacer tool is 14.4mm but I'm not convinced that will be right for this loco. I will set it to 14.4mm and take it from there though.
@@oobill Hi Bill , I have exactly the same brass back to back guage as you. Try adjusting your loco's wheels to the tool's setting, I think you will be as surprised as I was!
Very dieselly sounds. 😲Wow
Glad yours doesn't have the split-gear problem. However that does rob me of seeing how you would try and solve it! (lol) Perhaps I will send you one of my fleet in the future! (lol)
Could you not glue the gear onto its shaft or is it a completely different type of problem that you are trying to describe?
@@davidstrains4910 To be totally honest I've not even got around to taking the locos apart to see. I got back into the hobby about 14 months ago and since then have been on quite a collecting spree. The Peaks were all acquired cheap on ebay before I had the means to test them. The basic fault is that you try to run the locomotive and the gear on the axle creates enough tension that the motor cannot turn. After a few seconds (or a little shove) you can get the locos to start moving, but only for a short period of time before the issues with the axle overpowers the motor once more. I have a few like that and one that has been 'fixed', however, although this runs slightly better it still has the same issues, it's just the length of time between stalls is longer. The idea in my head is to try and push the gears back to their original profile and then glue thin plastic washers on either side, no idea if this will work. I've looked on the modelling forums and they all seem to suggest that the problem is pretty terminal and that the locos (Mainline Warships and Peaks) should just be binned. There was, for a short time. a company selling replacement axles. As a prerequisite to this the locos start making a clicking sound, which gets louder and louder until one day....
@@davidstrains4910 By pure chance Sam's Trains has just uploaded a video which shows the exact problem. The Bachmann John Bull & La Fayette video - and just skip to 9.40
@@locohauledforummost common fix for an issue like that is to take the wheels of the axle, then the gear apply a small amount put of superglue to the axle than drive the gear back onto the axle, wait for the whole thing to dry then that should be enough to get it going again.
@@locohauledforum Superglue may work, but I think it is regarded as a temporary solution. Don't know about the Peaks, but there is certainly a chap on ebay selling replacement 3D printed gears for the Warships, and I have seen others doing the same too (also Ultrascale, for premium brass, or possibly Peter's spares).
It looks like a really nice model for the age, but I've never owned one so I don't know what they're like to live with. It seems like a lot of hassle to dismantle and reassemble one. If the directional lighting is barely visible, then it's probably a bulb? You could upgrade that to an LED to make it easier to see and all that extra wiring more worth while.
Hi there Bill ,, I bought 2 of these a while ago and i was told that both were good runners and that was far from the case ,, 1 had the brushes barely touching and there was a heap of oil all over it and terribly dirty black oily commutator so I cleaned it got it running quite well on the bench but slow as a slug on the track. I noticed the one you have on your layout dosent look like it goes that fast either. Did you have it going max power as it looked like it was a slow runner. I was thinking it may be only 4 out of 16 wheels driving and only a little ring field motor powering it let alone the load of what it is towing.
In saying this are these little motors compatible for a cd motor replacement conversion ?
Then I attempted to fix the second 1 and omg what a nightmare no brushes or springs and stripped drive grears as well so do you know of anyone who does replacement gears or even the 3D printed ones would be a good start.
Cheers from John in Australia.
It may be noisy but it’s got a bit of a Deltic whine about it. A Crackin looking Loco that looks good with the engineering train 👍🏻
It's noisy but not too noisy. I don't mind a little noise and after servicing this is fine. Not as quiet as my Hornby 29 but it's within the realms of acceptability. Just need to sort the wheels out...
Instead of constantly buying traction tyres, you might want to consider Bullfrog Snot liquid tyres.....
£25.99 plus postage for a 1oz jar?
@@oobill that jar will last forever and you don’t have to buy a specific size of traction tyres for each locomotive!
looks similar to mainline bill
I've read that someone has replaced the non powered bogie with a powered one, seems like a good idea. So I bought a spare bogie for mine, but I think this is a task beyond my set of skills.
I've a mainline one of these but only wants to continue running flat out as soon as you slow it down it stops
Hi Ashly, try getting the Mainline 45 brush and spring set from Peter's Spares , should help solve your running issue
Doesn't sound gauged right.
00Bill, Could you let me know what traction tyres you use, as my Class 45 also requires some, peterspares said he didn't have any, and or a mainline loco doesn't have them? Many thanks.
Hi Bill, me too, where do you obtain the tyres from?
If you think that is fiddley, try my N Gauge :)