went out today and my calliper was smokin'. So I nursed it up to mi mothers jacked it up and the wheel was solid xD.. Took it all to bits and the gator is just shredded. Sooo I will be replacing it soon. Managed to grease and WD-40 the piston back to life but I know that aint gonna last for ever.
Hi! Thanks for greatly explained video. I Have a question and if you could inform me, I would be so thankful. I am going to do this fixing on my 2008 mondeo. Question is, I have piston with springs and I damaged it accidentally and bought new one which doesn’t have spring. Can I assemble it anyway or should I find the springy piston?
Great video. Quick question I hope you can help. So when I take out the piston fluid comes out after a bit, I have a clamp on the line so it stops. New seal and boot installed. When I'm putting the piston back in, the bleeder nipple needs to be open? Cause I did it with the bleeder closed. I did it wrong? My brakes are super squishy. I bled them but I believe I did it wrong. You close the line and push in, open it and release the pedal? Thanks in advance
You open the bleed valve and get someone else push the brake peddle down. Then close the bleed valve and let the brake peddle up. Keep topping up the reservoir.
I hope to get an answer for this. I replaced brake pads and rotors on my corolla 2017 SE, front and back. While doing I tore half an inch of the caliper piston seal/boot (the same thing/way you showed on the video). So, should I replace it or its ok for atleast few months? Additionally, can I replace the seal/boot without taking the piston out? Regards
The rubber boot is there to stop dirt and muck getting in to the piston assembly. It also forms the seal to stop brake fluid leaking out. If torn then it will lead to the calliper failing and seizing. I don’t know how you replace it on a Corolla but would expect the piston needs to come out. My advise would be to replace it as soon as possible. Use a winding tool like mine.
@@NigelEaland It looks the same as yours. I twisted and torn the boot with a winding tool. This video helps alot but I dont want to take the risk of opening up the piston the whole way, I will try if I can replace the boot by not the taking the piston out. If not, then I have to do what you did on the video. No other way. Thanks for replying!!
I just did a search on ebay. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-REAR-BRAKE-CALIPER-REPAIR-KITS-SEALS-FITS-FORD-MONDEO-MK4-07-13-BCS3843X2T/262977653760?epid=854885287&hash=item3d3ab08c00:g:TLUAAOSwIeNdcSyx Also look at www.autodoc.co.uk/ or www.eurocarparts.com/
Thanks for posting this, my caliper is just starting to get a little sticky. Could you please clarify did you need to remove the brake fluid reservoir cap at all while you where removing or inserting the piston ? Or just for the bleeding process at the end ?
When you say it is getting sticky are you sure the problem is not with the sliders on the calliper? When you push back the piston you want the fluid return to the reservoir and the fluid will not drain out when the piston is removed, so don’t clamp the pipe. I didn’t remove the cap until I bleed the brake lines. Good luck.
@@NigelEaland Yep pretty sure - my Mondeo is getting on a bit (188k miles) and when I last changed the pads a few months ago I noticed the outer boot/seal was starting to go so I cleaned and re-lubed the sliders (I tend to do this with every pad change), and re-assembled then ordered the replacement seal ready in the hope that it would last until a refurb this spring. I was wondering about the fact that when you are pushing the piston back in there will be air in the void inside the piston where the screw thread is and whether or not this could get pushed back up into the rest of the system ?. Thanks for the quick response - the weather is looking dry for my work on this tomorrow morning :-)
The pocket of air behind the piston is what you need to get rid of by bleeding just that calliper. There’s not much air so it will bleed quickly. Well worth changing any piston seal if damaged as early as possible otherwise the piston will seize as water gets in and then you have a real problem.
@@NigelEaland I think also that it is more reasonable to clamp the brakeline. And when the piston is pushed back, open the bleeder screw. Even Haynes manual says that it is not recommended to push the fluid backwards. Mondeos brakes bleed pretty easy imo, I dont even have to push the pedal when bleeding rear brakes...just open the bleeder screw and wait a while and the transparent bleeding line fills pretty fast. ( If I had to change the gaiter, I would take the hole caliper out. It is more nice to work.)
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went out today and my calliper was smokin'. So I nursed it up to mi mothers jacked it up and the wheel was solid xD.. Took it all to bits and the gator is just shredded. Sooo I will be replacing it soon. Managed to grease and WD-40 the piston back to life but I know that aint gonna last for ever.
Thanks. Good effort
Hi, thanks for the video, wondered what size the pipe is that you used to bleed the valve?
I use one with internal diameter 4mm. Thanks for watching.
Hi! Thanks for greatly explained video.
I Have a question and if you could inform me, I would be so thankful. I am going to do this fixing on my 2008 mondeo. Question is, I have piston with springs and I damaged it accidentally and bought new one which doesn’t have spring. Can I assemble it anyway or should I find the springy piston?
Sorry I don’t know. You need to speak to Ford.
@@NigelEaland Ok, thanks anyway.
Why you dont bleed with help of the FORscan? Its easier imoh and bleed the ABS valves too. Greetings
Great video. Quick question I hope you can help.
So when I take out the piston fluid comes out after a bit, I have a clamp on the line so it stops.
New seal and boot installed. When I'm putting the piston back in, the bleeder nipple needs to be open?
Cause I did it with the bleeder closed. I did it wrong? My brakes are super squishy.
I bled them but I believe I did it wrong. You close the line and push in, open it and release the pedal?
Thanks in advance
You open the bleed valve and get someone else push the brake peddle down. Then close the bleed valve and let the brake peddle up. Keep topping up the reservoir.
I hope to get an answer for this. I replaced brake pads and rotors on my corolla 2017 SE, front and back. While doing I tore half an inch of the caliper piston seal/boot (the same thing/way you showed on the video). So, should I replace it or its ok for atleast few months? Additionally, can I replace the seal/boot without taking the piston out?
Regards
The rubber boot is there to stop dirt and muck getting in to the piston assembly. It also forms the seal to stop brake fluid leaking out. If torn then it will lead to the calliper failing and seizing. I don’t know how you replace it on a Corolla but would expect the piston needs to come out. My advise would be to replace it as soon as possible. Use a winding tool like mine.
@@NigelEaland It looks the same as yours. I twisted and torn the boot with a winding tool. This video helps alot but I dont want to take the risk of opening up the piston the whole way, I will try if I can replace the boot by not the taking the piston out. If not, then I have to do what you did on the video. No other way. Thanks for replying!!
Should I avoid 1 person method ?
where did you bought the seal ? is possible a linkl or part number please
I just did a search on ebay. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-REAR-BRAKE-CALIPER-REPAIR-KITS-SEALS-FITS-FORD-MONDEO-MK4-07-13-BCS3843X2T/262977653760?epid=854885287&hash=item3d3ab08c00:g:TLUAAOSwIeNdcSyx
Also look at www.autodoc.co.uk/ or www.eurocarparts.com/
@@NigelEaland
+ life saver you are thank you ever so much
Thanks for posting this, my caliper is just starting to get a little sticky. Could you please clarify did you need to remove the brake fluid reservoir cap at all while you where removing or inserting the piston ? Or just for the bleeding process at the end ?
Or even clamp the brake fluid pipe locally to that caliper ?
When you say it is getting sticky are you sure the problem is not with the sliders on the calliper?
When you push back the piston you want the fluid return to the reservoir and the fluid will not drain out when the piston is removed, so don’t clamp the pipe. I didn’t remove the cap until I bleed the brake lines.
Good luck.
@@NigelEaland Yep pretty sure - my Mondeo is getting on a bit (188k miles) and when I last changed the pads a few months ago I noticed the outer boot/seal was starting to go so I cleaned and re-lubed the sliders (I tend to do this with every pad change), and re-assembled then ordered the replacement seal ready in the hope that it would last until a refurb this spring.
I was wondering about the fact that when you are pushing the piston back in there will be air in the void inside the piston where the screw thread is and whether or not this could get pushed back up into the rest of the system ?.
Thanks for the quick response - the weather is looking dry for my work on this tomorrow morning :-)
The pocket of air behind the piston is what you need to get rid of by bleeding just that calliper. There’s not much air so it will bleed quickly. Well worth changing any piston seal if damaged as early as possible otherwise the piston will seize as water gets in and then you have a real problem.
@@NigelEaland I think also that it is more reasonable to clamp the brakeline. And when the piston is pushed back, open the bleeder screw. Even Haynes manual says that it is not recommended to push the fluid backwards. Mondeos brakes bleed pretty easy imo, I dont even have to push the pedal when bleeding rear brakes...just open the bleeder screw and wait a while and the transparent bleeding line fills pretty fast. ( If I had to change the gaiter, I would take the hole caliper out. It is more nice to work.)
Could you pump the brake pedal to force the piston out?
No it unscrews as it’s part of the handbrake mechanism.
Yes you can. It's easier too
The best
мондео 4?
да, това е mondeo 4
Your missing a part for the winding tool
Jamie Murphy no I’m not. Look at 4.15’. You don’t need the plate to wind out the piston.