Solid vs. Engineered Hardwood Floors. What's the Difference?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 มิ.ย. 2024
- www.mtcopeland.com
Humans have been using wood for flooring for thousands of years. For most of that time the wood was cut into planks that served as both the structural floor, as well as the finished wear surface. As manufacturing processes advanced and hardwoods became more scarce, we began milling the wood into planks that were attached to a structural sub floor. Today an engineered wood floor offers the best solution for floor stability, subfloor adaptability, cost and conservation.
Since solid hardwood floor planks are milled from a single piece of wood, they are very susceptible to movement with changing moisture content, can only be stable in narrow widths, and cannot be glued directly to a concrete slab.
Engineered wood floors, on the other hand, have a plywood backing that is very dimensionally stable, allowing for the planks to be very long and wide while remaining dimensionally stable. European Wide Plank floors are a direct result of an engineered planks inherent stability.
A common negative raised about engineered hardwood flooring is inability to refinish. While this is true for wear layers under 2MM, most high quality engineered floors are able to be refinished multiple times, as long as their wear layers are greater than 2MM. A 5-6MM wear layer can be refinished as many times as a solid wood floor, and will have all the other benefits of an engineered wood floor.
It's the best of all worlds!
I've watched tons of solid vs. engineered wood flooring videos. Yours is the most comprehensive by far!
Your ability to explain things in a way even a novice can understand is exceptional. Of all the home building TH-camrs I subscribe to, you are the most informative. It's almost like taking a class... we should just call you Professor Smith. Keep up the great work.
Totally agreed!
A+ on your presentation and knowledge of wood flooring. I like the fact you talk about inferior products and premium products without putting either product down. I have been wondering all your points and am glad you put out a first class training session.
Every time I hear that intro music I pause my TV and go off looking for leg warmers that I used to have in the 80s. Then I realize I never had legwarmers, forget what I was doing, and realize that my A.D.D. is flaring up.
Awesome video, extremely helpful for me. Just started working at a flooring store with no prior knowledge nor experience so these vids help out a ton
Thanks for that you clarified and and cleared up a lot about the differences between the two.
Thank you for the video! I'm starting to clean hardwood floors and this was very informative... What really got me into hardwood types is I contracted out a hardwood sand and refinish job and I want to learn more about the floors! You definitely helped out. Appreciate you!
Having only been exposed to the cheap box store stuff, I definitely haven't been too keen on the idea of engineered flooring. You've definitely opened my eyes on this. I'll definitely be considering them in the future.
I get samples from the store and scratch the mess out of them with my keys 😁
I have been driving myself crazy trying to find something that mimics a white oak solid hardwood flooring... it’s hard to find without it looking cheap. This flooring looks beautiful and you explained it so nicely! Thank you!
The only video that really helps understand hardwood floors thanks I learned all I need
Do solid. It can be professionally covered with polyurethane or lacquer. I'm from New Orleans. Our floors were 50 years old. First, we had to get them professionally sanded, then stained. After they were coated with polyurethane, they stayed beautiful and looked brand new through 2 active toddlers, a boxer puppy, and toys being played with on the floors, etc....To clean, the professional told me to use a damp string mop, taking as much of the dampness out that I could. It cleaned wonderfully.
This has worked for you on a slab?
Very nice explanation of the flooring differences. I have been in the home improvement business for a while and I am some times confused by all the different types and styles of wood products out there ! Thank you !
Bob Lane, Sterling Heights, MI
Very nice presentation and especially the explanation on the wear layers it was very informative, simply great. Thanks!
The engineered floor I was shown was made of a sawdust base. I could not sand it and it was thin, like 1/4 thin. It looked like it was a laminate-type flooring. The company said no it was called an engineered flooring. If I was shown something that you just shared I totally would go for that type. Thanks for the info! It has been very helpful.
This is the best alternative to hardwood flooring for humid environments! We r building a house and I think we'll go with a tile in kitchen,bathrooms,and laundry room and engineered wood everywhere else. Thank you for such a detailed explanation!))
That was the best informational video on wood floor options! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
all the way Engineered, now I understand the differences between both, pros and cons, precise and concise explanation!
Thanks for this really detailed description! I am doing an attic remodel and the details matter! In the case we're looking at the downstairs is already a manufactured parquet hardwood tile, possibly trying to match it, but this give us choices to work with - cheers!
THIS completely clears this up for me, thank you very much! One video, bingo, the right one.
Great video! I know nothing about floors but you made it easy to follow along👍
Excellent video. Super easy to understand.
Thanks a million for this video. You explained it so well.
great video+explanation+presentation mate! well done! thanks for sharing! new sub 🙏🏻
Excellent explanation! Thanks for the video. I decided on Bella Cera engineered hardwood. Got the Villa Belize in Butera which is French Oak, 7.5" wide planks. I'm installing it now. I really dig the smoked look and they have 8 coats of Bona matte finish that really makes the grain pop. Only a 2mm wear layer, but I have no plans on refinishing. If the times comes for a change, I'll just replace it.
Thanks I always wondered about the sanding issue.
This is very informative. Thank you!
Great video. Thanks for the breakdown
*Fuming Oak:* The "smoke" is ammonia, which chemically reacts with the tannins in oak and darkens the wood.
I was waiting to see if somebody else knew what "fumed" really was
I put in bamboo five years ago and love it, it looks as good as when we installed it, super durable. We foster large dogs so I was not expecting it to still look like when it was installed five years later.
Do you know who manufactured the bamboo?
Can I put bamboo on top of concrete flooring?
@@Phil_Meloneyes
Thank you so much! Never knew you could sand engineer flooring.
Thank you very much for this video very good information
Nice video, I didn't realize about the same 'effective' wear layer.
Learned a lot, thanks !!
Excellent video. I was wondering about engineered flooring.
Very helpful! Thank you so much.
Awesome information!! Thank you!!
excellent info! thanks for sharing
Very helpful! Thank you
Very, very informative! I will get engineered hardwood floor!
Very helpful. Thanks.
What about concerns over the out-gassing of the adhesives used in the engineered hardwood? Also, what happens if the plywood underside ever gets wet? I have seen what happens to plywood when it gets wet-not good!
Great info coming from an installer. Pretty much the same way I explain the differences in the structural parts. Although calling the veneer the "wearlayer" makes me cringe.
Adding more info about finish qualities which reflect the warranty of the finish, which affects costs would help some people.
Also reminding people that if their floor is textured, wire brushed, hand scraped, the veneer can only be sanded flat and usually can't be made as pretty as it came out of the factory. Yeah there are special people that can scrape the floor and make it pretty. But the to Rip it out and put new in with a factory finish would be cheaper. So the veneer thickness is kinda redundant and not important for some floors, because they will just be ripped out and something new will be put in. It's our "disposable society".
You explained plywood with a veneer very well. The Bona product you discussed uses "staves" instead of plywood, which was pioneered by Lauzon. Also used by Mannington and many or manufacturers. Another peice of info to discuss.
Again, very well explained overall!😀
Jordan, your spec house was instrumental in my decision to go with a helical pile foundation with open crawlspace. Can you kindly share how you insulated the open crawl space? Thanks
Wow, crazy helpful. Subbed!
Very informative!
I always loved installing solid wood flooring. I found a mill in nearby state that sold old reclaimed wood flooring, as well as clear or "rustic" aka knots. I learned to install floors, and did my own (but not the finishing). With your video, you cleared up the notion that "engineered" is not only sandable, but you can get 2x the refinish out of them as much as solid flooring. (ofcourse the pre-finished, cheaper flooring is the one I saw the most, so I never knew there was a solid wood laminate over engineered. Thank you. Something now to consider now. What is the end resource of engineered when its done? Solid wood floors can be milled or recycled- what about engineered?
To my knowledge engineered is basically made out of wood too but instead of a solid piece it is being layered with cheap woods/plywood (spelling) under and so on.
Answered all my questions…!
Great job
We have 3/4" oak in high traffic areas but used engineered cork in one bedroom and engineered bamboo in another (high quality, not builder grade). Our bamboo also looks just like new but a lot of that has to do with the quality of the finish. The cork has held up very well also and feels nice under foot. For bedrooms these are typically floating installations with click and lock boards, so no nailing required and no creaks in the floor down the road due to nails working loose.
The floor wearing out after 7 years has to do with the quality of finish and the type of traffic. You can get poor quality finishes on solid wood flooring as well. My oak needs refinishing, but it's in a high traffic area where furniture also gets moved around, so that's normal. Dogs will also wear out the floor faster. 3 coat poly will not last long, but 5 or 7 coat poly will last many years, so do your research before purchasing. If working with a builder, consider upgrading to higher quality finishes for longer wear.
Wow, great video so far’
Thanks! I would like to say it gets better, but let's be honest; it probably doesn't. :)
Questions . What do you think of retrofit addition of insulation on a slab on grade foundation ? Say 1 inch of foam plus plywood plus engineered floor ?
I was even thinking of a dimple Mat later too let the slab breath. Thoughts ?
Very informative video 👍👍
Thanks a lot!
Do you recommend Hurst Hardwoods? I think I saw in another video that you’ve gotten flooring from them before. I’m considering using them for my new build.
Thak you so much for your wisdom on wood flooring. I truly appreciate this video. 😊subbed
Just subscribed, you've earned it. Enlightening, I always thought solid was the gold standard. Most engineer offer click and lock for floating method, which can make instalation easier. What's your thought on this method?
hi, great info.
but what about the materials used to glue the flooring ? is it toxic to breath?
Thanks for your great video, you helped me decided on engineer hardwood floor on my concrete slab foundation. Cheers and keep up the great work!
I don’t care what reviews come along with it - if you’re paying $18/sqft for a 5mm engineered hardwood before install or without an install system - you’re paying WAY too much.
What is superior about plywood (either underlaid, or as part of the engineered) that allows it to tolerate moisture from a slab?
Where can I get the wood planks that are shown on the wall? Those are beautiful.
thanks, very good explanation of advantages of engineered timber. one'd think that solid is always better, but it is not the case here.
Moisture is always a problem everywhere.
A lot of thought needs to go into any home build to keep the floors, walls and roof dry.
Too many builders use poor construction techniques.
Proper landscaping drainage is often over looked.
Very interesting video. I would like to do the engineered flooring in my basement. Would you tell me what is required between this and the concrete slab?
Consider the quality implications of "cheap" versus "inexpensive", especially given the stability of the laminates/plywood?
Excellent: Question- is their a thin insulated - moisture barrier pad that helps later with creaking of floors later to place between concrete and engineered wood floors?
No none, most flooring glues good ones anyway have a primer /sealer, then flooring.
Can u recommend engineered floors above water piped floor heating installation system?
You can roll on a vapor barrier before you glue it down if your concerned about the moisture.
Can engineered be nailed and also is it waterproof I was thinking to use it in a kitchen if yes can I put cabinets on top of this style of flooring or it has to be around cabinets thanks
A large national discount flooring chain sells engineered hardwood with a paper thin wear layer. I doubt you could even refinish it once. I went with solid wood (from the same chain), and it was somewhat of a mistake. The milling was flawed (boards vary in width by 1/16" or more, excessive snipe on the tongue side of a large number of boards), and it took 10x longer than it should have to piece together a floor without gaps. Since it's prefinished I couldn't just fix problem boards with my woodworking tools.
Next time I'd go with quality engineered hardwood. The labor savings alone will be worth it even if it costs more.
I have a very large room about 500 SQ FT I like to put something that has weight because I don't have sub flooring I have a concrete I also have underlayment because initially was going to put veneer plank flooring but it was too hollow sounding and crackle when I stepped on it. So is there a product for my situation??
I have concrete floor since our house is built on a slab. I want to put a dance floor in one of the rooms. It cannot be vinyl because our feet will hurt if we are dancing on concrete. This room I do not keep the temp of the rest of the house to save money. Thermostat is set at 50. In winter, on sunny days, the room will warm up to 60 on its own. We are ballroom and Latin dancers, so we cannot have even a microbevel. It needs to be installed flush. My husband likes the lighter oak look and thinner width planks that would be real hardwood. We were told we cannot put real hardwood in unless we put a subfloor in. What are our options? Thanks.
Very informative. Thank you. Btw, condensate is a noun, condense is a verb.
Thanks, Scorpio. You've been following me long enough to know that, although English is my first language, I'm still not fluent. 😄
@@JordanSmithBuilds Yeah, I know you speak Texan, ha ha. I hope I come off as helpful, since you are on an international stage now. And I say hot water heater is right!
What flooring store are you doing this video from?
Can you install engineered hardwood floor in my bedroom? I live in Pennsylvania. In the winter my heater would be on a lot and the air is very dry.
Just dropped some serious dough on Natural Select White Natural White Oak 5 inch wide... I wish i had seen this video prior to making the purchase :(
Hi Jordan I am in the uk with a pex/water underfloor heating system under liquid screed (75mm). What’s your thoughts on laying the long and wide white oak planks? Glueing etc
Make sure that the glue manufacturer allows for underfloor heating, but I would be comfortable putting an engineered floor down on a radiant heating system.
Can you get engineered sand-in-place floors? I hate seeing grooves ('eased edges') in floors - screams engineered flooring and collects dust/dirt.
Yes,! You’re right- dirt collectors! And yes, sand and finish in place engineered is a great way to go!!
Can you have cork as a subfloor ?
There has to be some worry of delamination between the solid wood and the plywood on the engineered flooring. Why was this not brought up, is just never an issue?
@JordanSmith I'm planning to go for a DIY on our master bedroom suing engineered hardwood and my subfloor is the actual concrete slab. So I believe i could use glue to get it done. But do i need to have a moisture barrier put in? But then how the gluing works for the hardwood on top of the moisture barrier? Kindly provide your inputs on this.
I definitely would if you can afford it
So for installing directly on concrete one needs to ask for what kind of plywood substrate for engineered floor? A water resistant glue or pressure treated or what do they call it?
what was that term you used for the wood with the natural nonshine look? ?? Bon al Natural???
It is not a term, it is an actual product. The brand is called BONA - and has an extensive range of products, the one that he is refering to is Bona Natural. - check out their website. Greetings from Australia! www.bona.com/Bona-Professional/Products/Coatings/Lacquers/Bona-Traffic-Natural/
@@jonathanmonroi thanks for sharing the name and link. I came to the comments on hopes of finding this! 💕
I wish I could get hardwood floors, but was told you can’t put them down over cement slab.
Building a timber frame home I was wondering why not use engineer hardwood floor in the ceilings can it be done?
Sure, it’s all tongue and groove
How are spelling the name of the wood floors in you store? boen wood floors?
I don’t how the effective wear layer is same for both. My understanding is that hardwood can be sanded many times. Is the sanding limited to reaching the lip?
Sanding to the point of reaching the tongue / groove is the point where the problem starts.
Hah! I was talking to a coworker on this earlier today when he was saying he'd never get engineered hardwood floors again, because the cruddy builder grade stuff he had was worn out after 7 years.
Only point I missed was flying directly to concrete, so I guess I did okay, lol!
i went to home depot to check these out. there was very little price difference. it was a no brainer to choose the hardwood boards.
In this episode Mr. Smith tries to ride metric system wagon and gets confused
Can you expand on cost difference. Is a 6mm wear layer engineer floor more than a true hardwood? If so, and you are installing on wood subfloor up north, and you don’t want/need large format/wide planks then am I wrong to say true hardwood is still the best option? That’s how I see it anyway. But I agree if going on to slab or need those wide planks than engineer w thick wear layer is best
Thanks for the explanation. I have both kinds in my house. The engineered floor serms much softer: can dent it by just dropping a key or light tool onto it. Is this expected?
If it has a very thin wear layer, you could easily dent the plywood underneath. The 3-5mm wear layers Jordan showed won't dent unless you drop something really heavy on them.
@@mattv5281 True story. I have a thin engineered hardwood in my newer build house (less than 10 years when purchased 3 years ago) and there are a couple 'dents' here and there. My wife just purchased a house that's 81 years old with the original hardwoods and no dent in sight.
I just knew of the cheap engineered hardwoods and not about the baller engineered hardwoods. We'll definitely go with the thicker wear layer engineered hardwoods. I know her floors are solid hardwoods because we're finishing up her bathroom after a full gut. The hardwoods are about 3/4" of solid wood goodness. You can see the finish nails where the room meets the hallway, etc...
Engineered is rubish. A throwaway product. Definitely, solid hardwood is the best. Buy it once, good for 100 years.
Great video! I love the MTCopeland idea, however, I did encounter a couple of 404 errors.
Thank you! Great to hear that you like what we are doing over at MT Copeland too, come take a class with me. :) Please let us know if you are still experiencing 404 errors, so I can get these fixed.
@@JordanSmithBuilds I just went through the site, and did a quick front end smoke test, didn't look like there were any! Is your company busy right now? I'm in the ATX area and we need a builder to come... do some things...
Why is there an issue sanding to the tongue? Until you sand through the tongue, it'll hold. Also, the key issue with engineered is delamination. With wide humidity swings, almost a guarantee.
I didn't watch but solid wood warps and engineering is more stable. Wear layers are mostly the same like 5mm although some cheaper variations have only 3mm.
We have engineered hardwood flooring from Armstrong in our home and it is absolute garbage. It scratches, it delaminates and splinters. It's so bad that I don't see how or why we would ever consider engineered wood flooring in the future. I guess Armstrong has ruined the product for us.
What would you do if you had it over to do? I ask because I'm looking into hardwood floors and didn't even know how many different types they had!
On the other hand: I'm still able to restore 130 year old solid wood (pine!) floors by sanding the upper few millimeters off. Others have been doing the same thing before us for generations, and there is still enough meat on the planks that they are stable. Engineered wood is just another environmentally disastrous industrial waste product. When I see what's already happening to engineered wood buildings in the UK I could cry. "Eco beams" falling apart, Gluelam beams delaminating... Horrible.
WOW, thank you for sharing!! Nothing like the real thing!!
Ahah! Net wear layer. Now engineered makes sense to me. Thanks
Not all wear layers come equal though. The only disadvantage of a thinner wear layer is you won’t get as many sands out of the floor.
Cost.
I still prefer to put a dimple mat over a slab. Could engineered flooring be put directly on to a dimple mat, or do you have to do a subfloor at that point? The two reasons I like dimple mat on concrete is that 1) research shows people living on slabs tend to get arthritis at a higher rate because of the hard surface and moisture 2) I can have some degree of leveling the floor with a dimple mat.
Good question. I am not sure what the protocol would be to glue to a dimple mat. There are now "click" together high quality engineered floors that you can float. That's probably the way I would go.