Thank you. I have purchased my diesel heater. My first mistake would have been changing to automotive fuel hose. Second mistake, the muffler set too high. You have saved me a lot of heartache.
Great content! Directly addressing the SPECIFIC issues of installation, all educational. No bs intro, fancy graphics or overly vlogging. Keep it up, simple is better!!!! 😀
I know others have said it but this is the best diesel heater video out there. I boondock in a small square drop camper ( a Hiker). Just got my heater and plan on building a stand for the heater outside the camper, with the air intake and exhaust both pointing down and the heat blower tube pointing straight into the camper. Another video I saw recommended putting the pump in a harbor freight camera box ( or other foam padded case) to muffle the clicking sound of the pump, as opposed to buying another pump for $60 or so as another guy recommended.
This is clearly the simplest yet most articulate explanation of truly important details leading an inexperienced installer to achieve a proper installation. Extremely useful. Complementary notions of the overall process can be found in other videos on the Web. Thank you so much. You’re a truly competent communicator. 👏👏🌿
Leaving this here for later ;) Thank you for your time. Position pump 30' angle with arrow pointing up. Muffler water drain hole pointing town. Exhaust pipe should be higher than muffler so moisture can drip out. Dont pinch fuel line. Double check fuel filter direction. Position air intake so muck doesnt hit and clog it whilst driving. Base plate transfers heat, beware. Add stand pipe inside fuel tank to avoid debris. Prime pump before starting heater. Point exhaust away and off the side of vehicle. Carbon monoxide detector
Great tips - thanks! Tip number 8 though: that metal plate is to go under the floor (outside) if the floor it is thinner than 1.5mm. That big black gasket on the bottom of the heater is to create an air-tight seal, preventing exhaust fumes from entering the vehicle. Leaving air gap between the bottom of the heater and the surface you're attaching it to defeats the object of this gasket. Try as you might, you're very unlikely to make a perfect seal where the exhaust pipe attaches to the heater. Even a tiny leak in the exhaust can release fatal doses of carbon monoxide into the vehicle. Sorry to poke holes, but it is seriously dangerous. Anyway, thanks again for the tips - trying to decipher the manual this thing comes with is seriously challenging!
I'm thinking about this baseplate, I was going to mount it directly to the floor (painted marine plywood) but now I'm wondering just how hot it'll get...
@@jiri4023 mine's on plywood with the baseplate on top - just need plenty of clearance around the exhaust pipe underneath because that does get very hot.
@@tommoore7348 Thanks for the quick reply Tom! OK, shouldn't be a problem then as I used a much bigger hole saw on the ply than the diameter of the pipes. Now I'm just worried about installing the fuel tank kit correctly and sucking some diesel out until the pump to help it prime faster and safer. Fun.
@@jiri4023 I'd also say make sure the exhaust outlet is sealed to the outside. For me that just meant attaching the basplate to the ply floor with sealant. Maybe get a carbonmonoxide detector too just to be safe. Yes, gotta love the taste of diesel in the morning :)
A solid video! Thanks for taking the time to share what you learned with the rest of the community! It's people and accounts like this that make van life more accessible!
Perfect timing, I have purchased one of theses and it arrived today. Thanks for the tips. I’ve watch a few videos on the insulation of these and hardly any of what you have mentioned in your video were mentioned in the others…. top marks 😊👍
Dude, you win the Internet for the Day. Excellent video. Your #12 is critical. I just broke down and bought an almost $200 personal CO monitor/alert, the AV8 version of Sensorcon. This version let's you set the CO level at which to alarm you. I am sleeping in sailboats, campers, and cabins, and actually fly small airplanes, all of which the CO monitor will be with me. Even though I have a portable Chinese diesel heater for my squaredrop, which runs outside my camper, you just never know if some weird meteorological phenomenon will blow the exhaust back into the camper.
@@nomadbrad503 Yeah, I think if you are a person that's going to be spending a lot of time in small places that use such heaters as these, $200 is over a bunch of years is justified. One thing, though, they have to be calibrated and also the sensors have a surprisingly short lifespan. Keep that in mind for anyone that is going to look at them.
Although I don't have one of these heaters, it's valuable info for anyone that does. Thanks for taking the trouble to warn owners of problems in use of these heaters.
These are great tips. Id love a video where you go a bit more in depth explaining how to do some of the trickier stuff like priming the fuel and inserting the stand pipe inside the tank. Thanks Brad
You press ok and down at the same time and it should flash "off" press up or down or left or right so it says "on" you have to prime it a few times until all air is out if necessary
I used a strip of 50mm x 0.5 mm steel strip to line the cut edges of my 18mm mounting board. I cut it carefully to give a spring fit and glued it with car body acrylic mastic. My exhaust shoots up my chimney I did not use the muffler.
Why put the air intake outside the vehicle it would draw in ice cold air that needs to be heated better to have the air intake inside the vehicle drawing already warmed air,I have had mine set up for two years like this without a problem.Hope this helps.
@@davegreenwood2687 For one thing, you are sucking air out of your living space, so how is that going to be equalized? Is it going to suck cold air and moisture in thru leaks? For another, when you are burning fuel, it atomizes better when cold, just like with your engine.
Thank you for making this video. I never would have thought of half of that. My heater arrived wed and I’ll be watching this one more time before install.
Outstanding advice and tips. Hoping to put my heater in the van in Spring. these tips help me plan the installation to reduce issues and problems later. Thank you so much.
I find your vid pretty interesting, especially what u mention about the muffler positioning...I am using a chinese heater at home. In order to do so, I got myself some long pipes and also I made a small modification by leaving the inlet pipe inside tbe house so that I am 100% sure that no toxic gases could get inside. I feel it is doing its job now for a reasonable amount of diesel. Hope it last many many years
_I like to add you can use the fuel pump horizontally, providing you use a vac pump to get the small amount of air out. You can use any 4mm OD x 2mm ID fuel or hard nylon line. For short-run like yours, you can use rubber/ silicone, but it's best to use a hard line at all times. If your metering pump doesn't have an arrow, just remember the connection is always going forward for the flow. When it comes to the fuel tank, those little square pads allow a slight tilt to get more fuel usage. It might be best to do a top-down fuel line, lest likely of leaks and easier to change out fuel tanks down the road. Those tanks seem to split after awhile. Not all, but 60% do! If you do a top-down, you can have any tank you want and fit your needs._
Let us agree to disagree on most of your points. Six out of 10 of these fuel tanks are splitting? The consumer protection agency would be having a field day.
Very Informative. I am taking my time installing my Diesel Heater. Having to understand the component of installation is a hassle free. This video is deffenaty for everyone to look into, and take the're time to make the installation correctly. This Video is an A++
@@nomadbrad503 Thank You, Installation was a success. But I was wondering, Here in Boston, Ma winter is brutal. I install the Diesel pump in the out side of the van. You think it recommended having it install inside instead? I just install it out side, incase the pump make too much noise.
Well done Brad! I just finished my second heater install, the first into a vehicle I just sold, the second into a portable case for tenting. I had the pump backwards! And I'm changing the hardware store fuel line to the green supplied one! All before I fire it up this weekend for the first time. Saved me some headaches! Thanks
Please do your self a favor and don't use that green pvc hose it's not made for fuel, please get some of the hard nylon hose , they are cheap and will save you from a lot of problems down the road
They definitely do make clear (blue/green tinted) fuel line that seems to be made of polyvinyl chloride (pvc). The BMW dealer's mechanic used it to replace a length fuel line between the petcock and fuel filter on my old R65 boxer. Never had a problem with it.
This is a good video and you took the time to go over some awesome tips thank you so much - I think the most important thing I've learned about installing 2 heaters in my school bus was the trick using kite string and a small weight to route the fuel tank pieces when you are assembling the fuel tank parts.
Do you mean as a vertical measure? Don't know the name in english, but a line with a weight in the end? A lod. You must explain, I don't think you mean that simple thing.
Great list, especially about the fuel direction flow thru the filter. There really ought to be an arrow. Only thing I'd add would be that the relief hole (weeping port) on the muffler should be the LOWEST POINT on the whole exhaust output line.( so all condensation ends up exiting there.
Thanks for the tips 👍 The muffler orientation is particularly insightful. Now we just need someone to create a clear and easily understood owner's manual on how to correctly operate and adjust all the features of the heater using the digital control unit.
Your video was excellent! Not too much yapping and unnecessary informaion. You were concise and direct with your instruction and whatever pertinent information that you were trying to relay. I originally purchased the heater that is put together. I had to replace it (because it up and stopped working) so I chose this type in the video. Which is a whole production, but it's good to learn and know what you're dealing with (*sometimes) vs just opening the package and using something that you're depending on to work because your mind has you automatically believe and trust that because said product is new, it is good and you'll be good. 👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀
Hi 👋🏽, thanks for the missing advices. I installed my all in one diesel heater inside my van, my air intake is inside too, cause I have enough fresh air flow inside my vehicle. The exhaust is mounted outside straight down, no curves at all, so the moisture can’t stuck anywhere.
Thank you. To me, the MOST IMPORTANT TIP IS THE INSTALLATION OF A CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTOR. I have a friend who lost her whole family...they rented an RV for a vacation and the whole family passed away from CO fumes.
Thankyou for describing all of this in great detail, it saved me a lot of time thinking about whether this is right choice for me, it is clearly not but at least now I know! You're a legend Brad, keep up the good work :)
Excellent video. My heater stopped working and although the air blows, it will not get hot. I can smell the raw diesel at the exhaust but it is not igniting completely. The old unit had the most impossible thermostat to operate!
Hi Brad, can you explain the electric power connection of the heater. Can I hook it up directly to a 12v battery, or do I need something in between? I don’t want my battery to fry the unit.
Thanks for taking the time to give us your tips. I've got the green vinyl tubing & was planning to swap it for the rigid nylon since folks say that the pumps aren't as happy with the soft stuff. Really appreciate you pointing out the slope & drainage for the muffler. I'd heard that keeping the exhaust clear and short is important but wouldn't have thought about moisture build-up being a concern.
Thank you for this informative video. You covered every bit of information I found to be confusing. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Appreciate it!
4:39 so, a hard nylon fuel tube is preferred from the outlet of the pump to the unit because that is what is under pressure? the line from the diesel fuel tank to the inlet of the pump, you'll be alright using the green tubing?
Since the filming of this video I have installed several with the softer green tubing. It works just fine. It’s okay to use whatever fuel line is included with the unit.
I got one of the stand up diesel heaters. First thing I noticed there was no fuel filter, the second, there was a kink in the white nylon fuel hose and a mix of different fuel hoses. The exhaust hose also didn't fit. Luckily I had spares from a previous heater and was able to sort all that out but damn, it's a hit and miss affair with these things. I ditched the little fuel tank and plumbed into my 20 Litre tank. So far so good.
Very cool video cause Im about to install the same system and I would not have known any of the good information in this video.Thank you for saving me potential issues
I think the problem with air in the line is that it doesn't block the flow of fuel but gets to the injector & causes sputtering or the flame to go out. I would install a fuel filter between the tank & the pump and keep a spare filter or 2 on hand. To be more quiet they make a silencer for the air intake and upgraded mufflers that can cut the outside noise level in half. If your heater didn't come with a silencer they go for around $25.
the reason for hard fuel line is that every time pump pulses it would cause the line to expand rather than moving the fuel up in the line to the heater. so you would end up having inconsistent fuel delivery. and that messes up the computer trying to adjust fuel to the demanded heat setting.
In the instructions for my Webasto petrol heater it says to install the muffler as close to the unit as is appropriate for your install. Thanks for the tip about the weep hole, I had mine mounted sideways! 👍
Hi I just installed this diesel heater & looks like I made the common mistake of waiting for the fuel to get from the pump that I primed but was working when it got there it was only short run say 200 ml, I have a problem with white smoke it doesn’t clear & the fan runs slow can u advise pls , great video on the 12 tips thanks for the advice👍
Dude the vid was really good, you just got to the points and it was super helpful. I'll definitely be using these tips with my install. Thanks very much
How hot can that base plate get? I want to mount it to a hard plastic surface. I'm not worries about combustion as much as I am worried about it melting the plastic.
Ok I only have one question how does air get in a sealed fuel line unless you let it run low in fuel, I have used many types of fuel pumps and never seen air come out of one that as no leaking fuel line with a full tank of fuel. So if it has air in it get it out and as long as the fuel tanks is higher and there is no leaks you should not see air in system .
Fantastic .OK any answers would be great .so I have just got one and it's for my cabin as can't get electric to it .so a couple of questions. One does it make a lot of noise as my neighbour is about 50 feet away and 2 can I extend my air intake so its further away from exhaust
The heater is not very loud. Loudest part is the fuel pump. You can install the heater in a cabinet or closet to reduce operational noise. I do believe intake/ exhaust could be extended a little. If you point them in opposite directions, should be sufficient
I have a 2016 Transit Connect which will have the heater mounted inside by the driver’s side rear door. There is a hollow “tube” on each side with the top open (plastic cap) on the passenger side. I will have the exhaust pipe passing outside through the opening covered by the cap, then turning horizontal to mount the muffler pointing rearward. The intake will come in through the same “tube” on the driver’s side where I had to drill a big hole at the top. My intention is to mount the plate to the top of two 1x4” boards oriented on their edges thus creating a space open at both ends for the intake and exhaust and fuel to enter the heater through the plate. Since cabin air can pass freely under the plate, I’m hoping the plate will stay cool enough. Do you see any problems with this?
I am in the process of installing---I cannot get a good tight connection with the clamps to connect the exhaust pipe to the Heater outlet or the muffler ,--The metal 0 ring tighten on the outer but i cant get it to tighten to the inner What can i do thanks Joe
One of the biggest things that go wrong with these cdh is that the DC cable from the heater needs to be upgraded to a higher capacity cable and fused accorondly . I use cable that is rated at 30 Amps and use both the positive and negative cables direct to the battery. These heaters will draw around 9 Amps on start up and voltage drop is a big problem is one of the causes of failure to start and white smoke out of the exhaust pipe. Once the heater is up and running the current drops down to a couple of amps ( depends on temp and fan speed ). I do not use the chassis as a return for the negative wire. A good well charged battery and recharging capabilities is also a must. The backlighting is crap on these heaters and often fails and is hard to read after several months. One reason to fit a master switch into the DC line.
I'm facing this currently - voltage drop is significant and I need to run a very long cable, so I don't think 2.5mm will cut it. Thinking to use a 4mm2 or even 6mm2 cable all the way to the terminals to be on the safe side. For a master switch, I heard that this is not advisable since the heater needs to run it's buildup burn and cool down cycle before it can shut itself off safely. But I found a cool way to prevent a flat battery in this video using a VSR and a simple relay: th-cam.com/video/TWC5oGU_QWY/w-d-xo.html
The simple fix is keep the included wiring as short as possible, longer runs of wire need to be a much heavier Guage, but really you need a secondary battery, short as possible wiring and an isolator to be safe and not stranded if it's in something mobile. If you have access to 110volts AC or it's for a structure then a simple solution is a variable output AC to DC converter. You get the ones that are 0-48v DC output up to 480 watts. They are $40-60 and last indefinitely as well as work flawlessly even for multiple heaters, also add some polar power diesel fuel treatment or fuel injection cleaner for better operation. One final tip is the controller that is rectangular and has digital alarm clock LCD font with green characters, and light up red only icons works perfectly after years and years. I have 5 diesel heaters, 2 going right now as I'm a huge fan of these awesome and inexpensive heaters. I use old iron steam radiators to collect and store a ridiculous amount of basically free energy from the exhaust heat.
@@ProlificInvention That's an interesting idea on reusing the exhaust heat. How do you capture this heat and are there any related problems with exhaust flow back pressure? I have a problem with having not received (or I lost) my controller unit. I see your comment about another controller unit. Are they interchangeable?
@@kendonahve924 In my experience the controllers sometimes have different plugs, but if you're good at matching colored wires and splice repairing you should be able to match them up. As far as the steam radiator-no back pressure issues as the input is 1" and basically the hollow inside acts as a giant heavy muffler and is extremely good at extracting all the heat. The exhaust when it finally exits is below 80 degrees. I have a few videos if you go to my channel, click the videos tab, and scroll down to the videos I did last year.
Love the tips !! I too will be installing a diesel heater in my 6x10. I looked for your install video but it does not seem to be posted. Will you ever post it or is the snippet you had in the video all we get to see. I think I am going to mount the fuel tank inside the back door so that the fuel won't gel. Yes it might smell like diesel in the tiny but having the tank inside I can mount the heater in the rear next to it so less of a fuel run...Thanks for sharing your tips!!
How do you know you have CO being produced? It is odorless, colorless and tasteless. It's pretty unlikely to be produced and even less likely to be detected.
Through my error the controller unit for my 8 kw (?) unit is missing, or never came, and it has been over a year since unit arrived. Is there a universal controller available, or what can I do ??
2 or 3 mufflers close together and in-line will greatly reduce exhaust noise and provide zero restriction. Provided the muffler is the straight-through design,
❤ TIP "13 the fuel tank is not sunlight proof, keep it in a closed box or inside the vehicle. TIP" 14 if you want to install it fancy inside the house like I did, use several rounds of aluminum foil for the exhaust pipe sealing. TIP " 15 the exhaust can be used to heat a ( 1 square meter) steel radiator,
if you install the fuel filter wrong and start using it before realizing is it wrong it maybe a good idea to replace the filter because if you simply correct the filter you will put any contamination into the pump or even heater. can the muffler be placed before the hose or inline between 2 hoses (get a second hose)?
I bought a Chinese heater over a year ago, couldn’t get it to work. I gave up. My guess is that it is some electrical issue. I had it hooked up to a Blue Etti “generator” battery. Would I be better off hooking it up to a car battery?
Amazing video. Really clean explanation. Thanks for your time to share this manual. I have a question, what you recommend about hot shower water, I don´t like the idea of "gas". Thank you very much
Contrary to bad advice up higher in this thread(I think) and other videos, INSTALL THE PUMP at a 10 to 30 degrees PUMPING UP or you will experience issues or premature failure. That's not straight up, but in the direction close to straight up. THAT IS ONE OF THE MOST CRITICAL POINTS.
I had left you a long description for your install and maintenance and operation of the heater... alas it wad deleted by either the channel owner or Y. t., why? ...beats me! Then I ;tried to send to you thru your channel, but you have no content at all, nothing to pass you a message! ... sorry.
They come with a 2.5 gallon fuel tank. Mine lasts about 3 nights if I run it from 7pm to 8am. Once i get the temperature right, I drop it down to the lowest setting
The output of the pump always comes out by the electrical connector and I run my pump at a 45 angle and I use ridged nylon type line and the run is as short as possible and I use a fuel filter so the pump don't get wrecked from grit
use wire like this example, th-cam.com/video/j71Hnp307jw/w-d-xo.html Or like me, tie a short length of thin string around nipple near barb, then blow other end of sting out your hole from filler opening, using compressed air, then just pull it thru. ps, i modified my nipples, by putting extra feed holes in the sides of them, and making fine brass gauze covers for them as an extra pre filter. Due to my intake nipple mods, my tanks will drain to bone dry, rather than stop when still 10+mm left.
Exactly. I drilled the hole for the nipple. Then ran a wire down through the hole from the fill neck then slid nipple down wire. Not ideal but it works
How did you attach the muffler to the exhaust hose? The wider ring didn't seem wide enough. Also, how do you pump diesel fuel into the pump? I learned a lot.
To prime the hose, use a syringe. It fits just right into the rubber coupler that attaches to the tank nipple. When the hose is full, reattach it to the tank and fill the tank.
The muffler attaches to the hose with the included stainless hose clamp. It also has a hole in it so that it can be screwed down. If you have the digital controller, There is a setting to prime the pump. Check for a video that explains the type of controller that you have
I don’t see why not. Just remember both the warm air supply and return need to be routed inside the trailer. You don’t want to be trying to heat up cold outside air
@@nomadbrad503 yes thinking I can mount exterior V nose with an aluminum 10 gallon diesel tank along the V I can make a box from diamond plate to match trailer. Will run duct work in trailer
Tks , im using my 5 kw in a semi. Its working grt. But im wondering about settings are right since the fan runs slow. When it gets colder 20 F or colder, will the heater increase heat output? T is showing 24 C inside temp. Thermostat set to 22 C. Where is the temperature thermometer located that reads the inside temp on this? On the heater or on the control unit?
Thank you. I have purchased my diesel heater. My first mistake would have been changing to automotive fuel hose. Second mistake, the muffler set too high.
You have saved me a lot of heartache.
I’m happy to hear that!
This is the best group of instruction pointers I have seen, and I've looked a lot.
I’m so happy to hear this ❤️❤️
Great content! Directly addressing the SPECIFIC issues of installation, all educational. No bs intro, fancy graphics or overly vlogging. Keep it up, simple is better!!!! 😀
thanks! i hate watching videos with all the filler. I just want to know the details!
@@nomadbrad503 Agreed! But you don't need the shiny stuff if you're actually knowledgeable in your field. It shows, glad I encountered you!
the various manufacturers should sponsor you. excellent video, my heater arrives tomorrow and your tips will help tremendously .
Thank you for watching. I would love a sponsorship ✌🏻😊
I know others have said it but this is the best diesel heater video out there. I boondock in a small square drop camper ( a Hiker). Just got my heater and plan on building a stand for the heater outside the camper, with the air intake and exhaust both pointing down and the heat blower tube pointing straight into the camper. Another video I saw recommended putting the pump in a harbor freight camera box ( or other foam padded case) to muffle the clicking sound of the pump, as opposed to buying another pump for $60 or so as another guy recommended.
that sounds like a great plan!
Nice video. Short sweet to the point. Very helpful. No BS music and graphics. Thanks for keeping it on track!
I hate long intros and BS...lets just get to the point
This is clearly the simplest yet most articulate explanation of truly important details leading an inexperienced installer to achieve a proper installation. Extremely useful. Complementary notions of the overall process can be found in other videos on the Web. Thank you so much. You’re a truly competent communicator. 👏👏🌿
Glad it was helpful!
Leaving this here for later ;) Thank you for your time.
Position pump 30' angle with arrow pointing up. Muffler water drain hole pointing town. Exhaust pipe should be higher than muffler so moisture can drip out. Dont pinch fuel line. Double check fuel filter direction. Position air intake so muck doesnt hit and clog it whilst driving. Base plate transfers heat, beware. Add stand pipe inside fuel tank to avoid debris. Prime pump before starting heater. Point exhaust away and off the side of vehicle. Carbon monoxide detector
Thanks
Great tips - thanks! Tip number 8 though: that metal plate is to go under the floor (outside) if the floor it is thinner than 1.5mm. That big black gasket on the bottom of the heater is to create an air-tight seal, preventing exhaust fumes from entering the vehicle. Leaving air gap between the bottom of the heater and the surface you're attaching it to defeats the object of this gasket. Try as you might, you're very unlikely to make a perfect seal where the exhaust pipe attaches to the heater. Even a tiny leak in the exhaust can release fatal doses of carbon monoxide into the vehicle. Sorry to poke holes, but it is seriously dangerous. Anyway, thanks again for the tips - trying to decipher the manual this thing comes with is seriously challenging!
Thanks Tom!
I'm thinking about this baseplate, I was going to mount it directly to the floor (painted marine plywood) but now I'm wondering just how hot it'll get...
@@jiri4023 mine's on plywood with the baseplate on top - just need plenty of clearance around the exhaust pipe underneath because that does get very hot.
@@tommoore7348 Thanks for the quick reply Tom! OK, shouldn't be a problem then as I used a much bigger hole saw on the ply than the diameter of the pipes. Now I'm just worried about installing the fuel tank kit correctly and sucking some diesel out until the pump to help it prime faster and safer. Fun.
@@jiri4023 I'd also say make sure the exhaust outlet is sealed to the outside. For me that just meant attaching the basplate to the ply floor with sealant. Maybe get a carbonmonoxide detector too just to be safe. Yes, gotta love the taste of diesel in the morning :)
Couldn't be happier that I stumbled on your video.
Detailed, no BS cutesy crap. Just facts .
Excellent video.
Thank you!
I’m so glad you found it helpful ✌🏻😎
A solid video! Thanks for taking the time to share what you learned with the rest of the community! It's people and accounts like this that make van life more accessible!
Thank you for the encouraging feedback
Perfect timing, I have purchased one of theses and it arrived today. Thanks for the tips. I’ve watch a few videos on the insulation of these and hardly any of what you have mentioned in your video were mentioned in the others…. top marks 😊👍
Dude, you win the Internet for the Day. Excellent video.
Your #12 is critical. I just broke down and bought an almost $200 personal CO monitor/alert, the AV8 version of Sensorcon.
This version let's you set the CO level at which to alarm you.
I am sleeping in sailboats, campers, and cabins, and actually fly small airplanes, all of which the CO monitor will be with me.
Even though I have a portable Chinese diesel heater for my squaredrop, which runs outside my camper, you just never know if some weird meteorological phenomenon will blow the exhaust back into the camper.
I appreciate that. Good call on the personal co detector
@@nomadbrad503 Yeah, I think if you are a person that's going to be spending a lot of time in small places that use such heaters as these, $200 is over a bunch of years is justified. One thing, though, they have to be calibrated and also the sensors have a surprisingly short lifespan. Keep that in mind for anyone that is going to look at them.
Although I don't have one of these heaters, it's valuable info for anyone that does. Thanks for taking the trouble to warn owners of problems in use of these heaters.
Thank you so much for watching
The pump tilt is also to seperate sediment as it only delivers 5ml of fuel per 250 pulses !
You're right about the cavitation bubbles. Good to share !
Thanks for the information 😊
These are great tips. Id love a video where you go a bit more in depth explaining how to do some of the trickier stuff like priming the fuel and inserting the stand pipe inside the tank. Thanks Brad
You press ok and down at the same time and it should flash "off" press up or down or left or right so it says "on" you have to prime it a few times until all air is out if necessary
I used a piece of 1/4" cement board between the plate and the floor of my cargo trailer.
That’s a great idea for a heat shield
I used a strip of 50mm x 0.5 mm steel strip to line the cut edges of my 18mm mounting board. I cut it carefully to give a spring fit and glued it with car body acrylic mastic. My exhaust shoots up my chimney I did not use the muffler.
Why put the air intake outside the vehicle it would draw in ice cold air that needs to be heated better to have the air intake inside the vehicle drawing already warmed air,I have had mine set up for two years like this without a problem.Hope this helps.
@@davegreenwood2687 For one thing, you are sucking air out of your living space, so how is that going to be equalized? Is it going to suck cold air and moisture in thru leaks? For another, when you are burning fuel, it atomizes better when cold, just like with your engine.
Thank you for making this video. I never would have thought of half of that. My heater arrived wed and I’ll be watching this one more time before install.
Awesome! I’m so happy it helped
Outstanding advice and tips. Hoping to put my heater in the van in Spring. these tips help me plan the installation to reduce issues and problems later. Thank you so much.
Thanks for watching, good luck with the installation
I find your vid pretty interesting, especially what u mention about the muffler positioning...I am using a chinese heater at home. In order to do so, I got myself some long pipes and also I made a small modification by leaving the inlet pipe inside tbe house so that I am 100% sure that no toxic gases could get inside.
I feel it is doing its job now for a reasonable amount of diesel. Hope it last many many years
Thanks for watching, mine has been working great for over 1 year
I am installing my diesel heater in a couple of days, thank you for your excellent video.
Thanks for watching!
By FAR the BEST HOW TO VID on installing this flavour of Heater. Thanks. 💙
I appreciate that 😊
_I like to add you can use the fuel pump horizontally, providing you use a vac pump to get the small amount of air out. You can use any 4mm OD x 2mm ID fuel or hard nylon line. For short-run like yours, you can use rubber/ silicone, but it's best to use a hard line at all times. If your metering pump doesn't have an arrow, just remember the connection is always going forward for the flow. When it comes to the fuel tank, those little square pads allow a slight tilt to get more fuel usage. It might be best to do a top-down fuel line, lest likely of leaks and easier to change out fuel tanks down the road. Those tanks seem to split after awhile. Not all, but 60% do! If you do a top-down, you can have any tank you want and fit your needs._
These are great pointers ✌🏻
@@nomadbrad503 these pumps create air bubbles must be on angle
@@faffybubs9099 yes... indeed. One should not dream and add more points of failure, just mount it at the proper slant.
Let us agree to disagree on most of your points. Six out of 10 of these fuel tanks are splitting? The consumer protection agency would be having a field day.
Ya unnecessarily add more failure points.. great idea..you must me an engineer
Thanks for the detailed video. I'm still very intimidated with assembling it but your video gives me a bit more confidence.
Plan a whole day installing it. It isn't hard to to. It's just a lot of little stuff.
Just starting on the Sprinter Van conversion, trying to prevent newbie mistakes. This is a great video I'll review when I get to this stage. Thanks.
awesome, im happy to help
Very Informative. I am taking my time installing my Diesel Heater. Having to understand the component of installation is a hassle free. This video is deffenaty for everyone to look into, and take the're time to make the installation correctly. This Video is an A++
Good luck with the install
@@nomadbrad503 Thank You, Installation was a success. But I was wondering, Here in Boston, Ma winter is brutal. I install the Diesel pump in the out side of the van. You think it recommended having it install inside instead? I just install it out side, incase the pump make too much noise.
Well done Brad! I just finished my second heater install, the first into a vehicle I just sold, the second into a portable case for tenting. I had the pump backwards! And I'm changing the hardware store fuel line to the green supplied one! All before I fire it up this weekend for the first time. Saved me some headaches! Thanks
Awesome! I’m so glad you made those changes before startup!
Please do your self a favor and don't use that green pvc hose it's not made for fuel, please get some of the hard nylon hose , they are cheap and will save you from a lot of problems down the road
They definitely do make clear (blue/green tinted) fuel line that seems to be made of polyvinyl chloride (pvc). The BMW dealer's mechanic used it to replace a length fuel line between the petcock and fuel filter on my old R65 boxer. Never had a problem with it.
This is a good video and you took the time to go over some awesome tips thank you so much - I think the most important thing I've learned about installing 2 heaters in my school bus was the trick using kite string and a small weight to route the fuel tank pieces when you are assembling the fuel tank parts.
That’s a great idea!
Do you mean as a vertical measure? Don't know the name in english, but a line with a weight in the end? A lod.
You must explain, I don't think you mean that simple thing.
You’re very thorough! This video gives me ease of mind about installing my diesel heater.
Excellent!
Dude I'm installing one of this and you explain so much of what I needed to know. Thank you!! Great info.
Cheers brother! Good luck with the install
Great list, especially about the fuel direction flow thru the filter. There really ought to be an arrow. Only thing I'd add would be that the relief hole (weeping port) on the muffler should be the LOWEST POINT on the whole exhaust output line.( so all condensation ends up exiting there.
Thanks for the tips 👍 The muffler orientation is particularly insightful. Now we just need someone to create a clear and easily understood owner's manual on how to correctly operate and adjust all the features of the heater using the digital control unit.
I agree with that
Your video was excellent! Not too much yapping and unnecessary informaion. You were concise and direct with your instruction and whatever pertinent information that you were trying to relay. I originally purchased the heater that is put together. I had to replace it (because it up and stopped working) so I chose this type in the video. Which is a whole production, but it's good to learn and know what you're dealing with (*sometimes) vs just opening the package and using something that you're depending on to work because your mind has you automatically believe and trust that because said product is new, it is good and you'll be good. 👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀
Thanks for watching! Over 1 year later and this 5kw heater is still working great
Hi 👋🏽, thanks for the missing advices. I installed my all in one diesel heater inside my van, my air intake is inside too, cause I have enough fresh air flow inside my vehicle. The exhaust is mounted outside straight down, no curves at all, so the moisture can’t stuck anywhere.
YOUR AIR INTAKE NEEDS TO BE OUTSIDE THE VEHICLE.
Thank you. To me, the MOST IMPORTANT TIP IS THE INSTALLATION OF A CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTOR. I have a friend who lost her whole family...they rented an RV for a vacation and the whole family passed away from CO fumes.
That’s a very important point, I’m glad you brought it up!
Thankyou for describing all of this in great detail, it saved me a lot of time thinking about whether this is right choice for me, it is clearly not but at least now I know! You're a legend Brad, keep up the good work :)
I’m glad you didn’t head off down the wrong path 💪🏻
Excellent video. My heater stopped working and although the air blows, it will not get hot. I can smell the raw diesel at the exhaust but it is not igniting completely. The old unit had the most impossible thermostat to operate!
That definitely sounds like an ignition problem. Hopefully you can find a solution
Hi Brad, can you explain the electric power connection of the heater. Can I hook it up directly to a 12v battery, or do I need something in between? I don’t want my battery to fry the unit.
Thanks for taking the time to give us your tips. I've got the green vinyl tubing & was planning to swap it for the rigid nylon since folks say that the pumps aren't as happy with the soft stuff. Really appreciate you pointing out the slope & drainage for the muffler. I'd heard that keeping the exhaust clear and short is important but wouldn't have thought about moisture build-up being a concern.
Thanks for watching, good luck with the install
Thank you for this informative video. You covered every bit of information I found to be confusing. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Appreciate it!
I’m glad it helped you
4:39 so, a hard nylon fuel tube is preferred from the outlet of the pump to the unit because that is what is under pressure? the line from the diesel fuel tank to the inlet of the pump, you'll be alright using the green tubing?
Since the filming of this video I have installed several with the softer green tubing. It works just fine. It’s okay to use whatever fuel line is included with the unit.
I got one of the stand up diesel heaters. First thing I noticed there was no fuel filter, the second, there was a kink in the white nylon fuel hose and a mix of different fuel hoses. The exhaust hose also didn't fit. Luckily I had spares from a previous heater and was able to sort all that out but damn, it's a hit and miss affair with these things. I ditched the little fuel tank and plumbed into my 20 Litre tank. So far so good.
I’m glad it’s working out for you 💪🏻
Very cool video cause Im about to install the same system and I would not have known any of the good information in this video.Thank you for saving me potential issues
Thanks for watching!
I think the problem with air in the line is that it doesn't block the flow of fuel but gets to the injector & causes sputtering or the flame to go out. I would install a fuel filter between the tank & the pump and keep a spare filter or 2 on hand. To be more quiet they make a silencer for the air intake and upgraded mufflers that can cut the outside noise level in half. If your heater didn't come with a silencer they go for around $25.
The noise from the original pump was bad. With a upgraded version made the fuel pump quite.
the reason for hard fuel line is that every time pump pulses it would cause the line to expand rather than moving the fuel up in the line to the heater. so you would end up having inconsistent fuel delivery. and that messes up the computer trying to adjust fuel to the demanded heat setting.
Absolutely
the internal bore/size ,is important, so do not use "just" some other pipe,get the exact same kind. ( many years as trucker staying warm)
In the instructions for my Webasto petrol heater it says to install the muffler as close to the unit as is appropriate for your install. Thanks for the tip about the weep hole, I had mine mounted sideways! 👍
So did I! 😂🤷🏻♂️
I mounted my pump vertikal. Did run from powered on with no issues.
I’m glad to hear that 💪🏻
Hi I just installed this diesel heater & looks like I made the common mistake of waiting for the fuel to get from the pump that I primed but was working when it got there it was only short run say 200 ml, I have a problem with white smoke it doesn’t clear & the fan runs slow can u advise pls , great video on the 12 tips thanks for the advice👍
It’s normal to blow white smoke for a few minutes at startup.
Dude the vid was really good, you just got to the points and it was super helpful. I'll definitely be using these tips with my install. Thanks very much
How hot can that base plate get? I want to mount it to a hard plastic surface. I'm not worries about combustion as much as I am worried about it melting the plastic.
It doesn’t get very hot. I wasn’t sure at first
Hello,
Have you made a video on putting the heater together?
i do not
Ok I only have one question how does air get in a sealed fuel line unless you let it run low in fuel, I have used many types of fuel pumps and never seen air come out of one that as no leaking fuel line with a full tank of fuel. So if it has air in it get it out and as long as the fuel tanks is higher and there is no leaks you should not see air in system .
The air would only be from the initial install. Once purged, you’re correct, air should not be introduced unless you let it run dry
@@nomadbrad503 but I thought in the video says these pumps being a piston type will make air in system
Great video Brad, thank you for all the good information on the Diesel heater. 😊
youre welcome! these heaters work great when installed properly
very clear, very direct, no wasted time. Thanks. No manual with mine, so the pointers helped.
I try to get to the point! Hate time wasting intros myself
Do you have a video the placement and installation of the heater? Big bit thanks !!
I do not have an installation video yet
The vent at the back of the unit has another and close on it..what is the purpose of this please.. I'm from Western Australia
Fantastic .OK any answers would be great .so I have just got one and it's for my cabin as can't get electric to it .so a couple of questions. One does it make a lot of noise as my neighbour is about 50 feet away and 2 can I extend my air intake so its further away from exhaust
The heater is not very loud. Loudest part is the fuel pump. You can install the heater in a cabinet or closet to reduce operational noise. I do believe intake/ exhaust could be extended a little. If you point them in opposite directions, should be sufficient
I have a 2016 Transit Connect which will have the heater mounted inside by the driver’s side rear door. There is a hollow “tube” on each side with the top open (plastic cap) on the passenger side. I will have the exhaust pipe passing outside through the opening covered by the cap, then turning horizontal to mount the muffler pointing rearward. The intake will come in through the same “tube” on the driver’s side where I had to drill a big hole at the top. My intention is to mount the plate to the top of two 1x4” boards oriented on their edges thus creating a space open at both ends for the intake and exhaust and fuel to enter the heater through the plate. Since cabin air can pass freely under the plate, I’m hoping the plate will stay cool enough. Do you see any problems with this?
I’m not sure, can’t really picture that design in my mind
That was very good! I learn more with every video I watch!
Glad it was helpful!
I am in the process of installing---I cannot get a good tight connection with the clamps to connect the exhaust pipe to the Heater outlet or the muffler ,--The metal 0 ring tighten on the outer but i cant get it to tighten to the inner What can i do
thanks Joe
I would suggest buying a better clamp from the local hardware store
Wouldn't the moisture steam away out of the exhaust pipe as it's over 250 degrees?
I tried to lower the temperature to 0.9 hz, but after a while I get error 08. Is it because it is set too far below the minimum?
Possibly
what size/spec should the hard nylon line be - looking to replace my soft line
I believe you can find it on amazon of you search diesel heater fuel line.
I hear that these heaters require regular maintanance, is that the case and if so, what does the maintanance involve?
Not true. Been running mine for 1.5 years. Haven’t done anything except add fuel
I think to avoid residue, you must run the unit at high temp before shutting it off. Thats what ill do, running the unit mostly on high power...
How does the muffler attach to exhaust pipe? They are the same size. Did your kit contain a junction piece?
its a tight fit but the muffler does slide inside
One of the biggest things that go wrong with these cdh is that the DC cable from the heater needs to be upgraded to a higher capacity cable and fused accorondly . I use cable that is rated at 30 Amps and use both the positive and negative cables direct to the battery. These heaters will draw around 9 Amps on start up and voltage drop is a big problem is one of the causes of failure to start and white smoke out of the exhaust pipe. Once the heater is up and running the current drops down to a couple of amps ( depends on temp and fan speed ). I do not use the chassis as a return for the negative wire. A good well charged battery and recharging capabilities is also a must. The backlighting is crap on these heaters and often fails and is hard to read after several months. One reason to fit a master switch into the DC line.
I'm facing this currently - voltage drop is significant and I need to run a very long cable, so I don't think 2.5mm will cut it. Thinking to use a 4mm2 or even 6mm2 cable all the way to the terminals to be on the safe side.
For a master switch, I heard that this is not advisable since the heater needs to run it's buildup burn and cool down cycle before it can shut itself off safely. But I found a cool way to prevent a flat battery in this video using a VSR and a simple relay: th-cam.com/video/TWC5oGU_QWY/w-d-xo.html
The simple fix is keep the included wiring as short as possible, longer runs of wire need to be a much heavier Guage, but really you need a secondary battery, short as possible wiring and an isolator to be safe and not stranded if it's in something mobile. If you have access to 110volts AC or it's for a structure then a simple solution is a variable output AC to DC converter. You get the ones that are 0-48v DC output up to 480 watts. They are $40-60 and last indefinitely as well as work flawlessly even for multiple heaters, also add some polar power diesel fuel treatment or fuel injection cleaner for better operation.
One final tip is the controller that is rectangular and has digital alarm clock LCD font with green characters, and light up red only icons works perfectly after years and years. I have 5 diesel heaters, 2 going right now as I'm a huge fan of these awesome and inexpensive heaters. I use old iron steam radiators to collect and store a ridiculous amount of basically free energy from the exhaust heat.
That's what I did, replaced the #18 wire with #14 because the glow plug wouldn't get hot enough to ignite.
@@ProlificInvention That's an interesting idea on reusing the exhaust heat. How do you capture this heat and are there any related problems with exhaust flow back pressure?
I have a problem with having not received (or I lost) my controller unit. I see your comment about another controller unit. Are they interchangeable?
@@kendonahve924 In my experience the controllers sometimes have different plugs, but if you're good at matching colored wires and splice repairing you should be able to match them up. As far as the steam radiator-no back pressure issues as the input is 1" and basically the hollow inside acts as a giant heavy muffler and is extremely good at extracting all the heat. The exhaust when it finally exits is below 80 degrees. I have a few videos if you go to my channel, click the videos tab, and scroll down to the videos I did last year.
i've got the flexible fuel line and it's a bit too short. where do i get more?
Love the tips !! I too will be installing a diesel heater in my 6x10. I looked for your install video but it does not seem to be posted. Will you ever post it or is the snippet you had in the video all we get to see. I think I am going to mount the fuel tank inside the back door so that the fuel won't gel. Yes it might smell like diesel in the tiny but having the tank inside I can mount the heater in the rear next to it so less of a fuel run...Thanks for sharing your tips!!
Glad it helped
Thank you VERY much. Well done! My 5kw is producing C Monoxide. I am removing and replacing with a 2kW. Following all your tips closely.
I have a 5kw and it’s been great!
How do you know you have CO being produced? It is odorless, colorless and tasteless. It's pretty unlikely to be produced and even less likely to be detected.
Does the fuel tank have to be mounted above or below the heater?
Above the heater is better but can go below
Currently looking to purchase one, but was wondering about Tip 10 (9:25mins) - how do you prime the fuel?
There is a setting in the menu to prime the pump. It runs the pump for an extended time
Any idea where to buy the fuel pump locally? I bought my unit used and it didn't come with one.
You’ll have to order online
lol it’s so fun seeing friends pop up when I TH-cam nomad stuff 🤩
hey rachel! thanks for checking out my video 😎
Is it safe to recycle the intake air without venting it from the outside air?
Absolutely not
Through my error the controller unit for my 8 kw (?) unit is missing, or never came, and it has been over a year since unit arrived. Is there a universal controller available, or what can I do ??
I suppose you could try to contact the manufacturer and purchase one
Excellent advice thanks. I knew about priming the fuel line but .......how?
It’s a setting in the digital controller. It depends on what style you have. Check for a video about your specific controller
Never thought I'd learn something from an Oregoner. Nice job explaining everything.
Lol why not, where are you from
@@nomadbrad503 Never thought I'd learn something from an American.
2 or 3 mufflers close together and in-line will greatly reduce exhaust noise and provide zero restriction. Provided the muffler is the straight-through design,
❤ TIP "13 the fuel tank is not sunlight proof, keep it in a closed box or inside the vehicle.
TIP" 14 if you want to install it fancy inside the house like I did, use several rounds of aluminum foil for the exhaust pipe sealing.
TIP " 15 the exhaust can be used to heat a ( 1 square meter) steel radiator,
Thanks for the info!
if you install the fuel filter wrong and start using it before realizing is it wrong it maybe a good idea to replace the filter because if you simply correct the filter you will put any contamination into the pump or even heater.
can the muffler be placed before the hose or inline between 2 hoses (get a second hose)?
Yes the muffler can be placed between 2
I bought a Chinese heater over a year ago, couldn’t get it to work. I gave up. My guess is that it is some electrical issue. I had it hooked up to a Blue Etti “generator” battery. Would I be better off hooking it up to a car battery?
Depends what the issue was. Did it give you an error code?
@@nomadbrad503 It’s been over a year … cannot remember. Can I just hook it up to a car battery direct or is there an interface needed
@@billm3589 you can hook it directly
Is all of the accessories you’d mentioned in this video comes with the unit?
Yes, they’re all included
Absolutely brilliant! Some excellent information there, I'm glad I watched this before I install my heater.
Me too!
Wow such amazing and helpful tips. So happy I watched this before starting the installation. Thank you!! 👍👍👍👍
I’m happy to help ✌🏻😊
Very good tip. How do you prime the fuel line to the pump? Using a primer bulb like the one used for an outboard motor in a boat?
You can use a primer bulb..I went old school and just sucked on it until it was right at the end of the hose
Use a syringe.
Amazing video. Really clean explanation. Thanks for your time to share this manual. I have a question, what you recommend about hot shower water, I don´t like the idea of "gas". Thank you very much
I use tankless propane heaters for shower water. Specifically the ez tankless 101
www.eztankless.com/products/EZ-101-p174993157
What's your thoughts on extending the exhaust pipe?
Extending it a little bit should be okay
Can you hang them upside down? Exhaust /fuel line / intake facing up.
I’m not sure
Great video…. Thanks! Installing one today…. The company should be paying you for tech support.
I agree!
Good morning everyone out there. I need to buy a diesel heater for my van. Can someone please tell me the brand is of this one? ❤
Thanks for the video. Lots of good points. I just installed mine, so damn, I have to go back and make some corrections 👍
Better now than when you’re really depending on it and it’s not working. 💪🏻
This is all so helpful. Thank you for sharing! I'm about to install one of these and I'm so glad to have found this first.
Good luck with the install!
Contrary to bad advice up higher in this thread(I think) and other videos, INSTALL THE PUMP at a 10 to 30 degrees PUMPING UP or you will experience issues or premature failure. That's not straight up, but in the direction close to straight up. THAT IS ONE OF THE MOST CRITICAL POINTS.
I had left you a long description for your install and maintenance and operation of the heater... alas it wad deleted by either the channel owner or Y. t., why? ...beats me! Then I ;tried to send to you thru your channel, but you have no content at all, nothing to pass you a message! ... sorry.
good tips.. thank you for the share.. i wanted to ask if you know if they are efficient on fuel.. or about how much fuel they use in a day of use
They come with a 2.5 gallon fuel tank. Mine lasts about 3 nights if I run it from 7pm to 8am. Once i get the temperature right, I drop it down to the lowest setting
@@nomadbrad503 that is better then i expected.. thank you
The output of the pump always comes out by the electrical connector and I run my pump at a 45 angle and I use ridged nylon type line and the run is as short as possible and I use a fuel filter so the pump don't get wrecked from grit
I appreciate you!
Great video. Thank you. Question: How do you install the nipple in the tank? Pull it through with wire, or something similar?
use wire like this example, th-cam.com/video/j71Hnp307jw/w-d-xo.html
Or like me, tie a short length of thin string around nipple near barb, then blow other end of sting out your hole from filler opening, using compressed air, then just pull it thru.
ps, i modified my nipples, by putting extra feed holes in the sides of them, and making fine brass gauze covers for them as an extra pre filter. Due to my intake nipple mods, my tanks will drain to bone dry, rather than stop when still 10+mm left.
Exactly. I drilled the hole for the nipple. Then ran a wire down through the hole from the fill neck then slid nipple down wire. Not ideal but it works
@@nomadbrad503 I set up my mockup in the shop today and did it exactly the same way. Worked perfectly. Thank you.
How did you attach the muffler to the exhaust hose? The wider ring didn't seem wide enough. Also, how do you pump diesel fuel into the pump?
I learned a lot.
To prime the hose, use a syringe. It fits just right into the rubber coupler that attaches to the tank nipple. When the hose is full, reattach it to the tank and fill the tank.
Muffler is attached to the exhaust with a stainless hose clamp (there should be several in your kit), same as for attaching the exhaust to the heater.
The muffler attaches to the hose with the included stainless hose clamp. It also has a hole in it so that it can be screwed down. If you have the digital controller, There is a setting to prime the pump. Check for a video that explains the type of controller that you have
Can someone please tell me what that metal pipe with a flange on it is for (its sitting next to T piece) I have it & it dosnt tell me in instructions
Can this be installed on the Exterior of the Trailer, I’m thinking of making a box and mounting on V nose
I don’t see why not. Just remember both the warm air supply and return need to be routed inside the trailer. You don’t want to be trying to heat up cold outside air
@@nomadbrad503 yes thinking I can mount exterior V nose with an aluminum 10 gallon diesel tank along the V I can make a box from diamond plate to match trailer. Will run duct work in trailer
@@MLSPlatforms sounds like a good plan to me
Great video. Thanks! Installing ome in my off grid travel trailer this weekend.
Awesome! Good luck with the install
Tks , im using my 5 kw in a semi. Its working grt. But im wondering about settings are right since the fan runs slow. When it gets colder 20 F or colder, will the heater increase heat output? T is showing 24 C inside temp. Thermostat set to 22 C. Where is the temperature thermometer located that reads the inside temp on this? On the heater or on the control unit?
Temperature is measured from the control unit. Fan speed and heat output will change based on how much you are trying to increase the temperature.