Thanx for informative and edifying video. Planning on taking my front wheel off this weekend. I'm gonna grease all my bearings so my wheels will roll better and give me better gas millage
Thanks for vid, but you did not mention spinning the wheel and snapping the front brake to set the caliper bolts, which should be tightened after spinning the wheel, snaping and holding the break lever, then tighten both sides while the lever is held. So says Dave anyway, cheers
Probably a super late comment but what’s the name of those two Alan bolts you need undo to get the axel out? I stripped mine and can’t find and replacements online at all
The forks may have been pre-loaded inboard at the last seal change and took a seat. Now that the fork has been allowed to relax and align, the seal is not doing its job. I'd do a full fork service - the bushings could be worn also. Any movement in the piston with relation to the outer tube will identify bushing wear. If the bushings are good... just swap seals. Go with OEM, I've yet to see aftermarket last as long.
@@ColinBell321 thanks for the fast replay, the bike that I bought is a zx9r, and the guy who sold me said that he had a crash last year and that the front forks got "repaired", but clearly they aren't good, I found a orginal front fork from a zx9r from the same year is it better to buy it and replace the entire fork? Isn't that expensive around 200 euros what do you think?
@ak9784 for 200 euro it'd be a toss up as to what's more expensive. If the fork pistons are found bent, you'll need a new set anyway. If you twist the fork tubes in a full 360, is there any wobble?
@@ColinBell321 yes there is, and also I notice after 160-170 km/h(105mph) the front part od the bike starts to shake a little bit especially when I start braking at high speeds, btw the 2 front braking discs and 4 pads are new so it shouldn't be shaking like that when I brake
@ak9784 sounds like the forks are bent. I'd go for the new set. If the front shakes at high speed, the wheel could be out of balance, or slightly bent.
So wait a minute, you’re telling me I need two of those 22mm hex sockets?? I bought one of multi-size ones and was planning on changing my tire this weekend, would it work with 1? Thanks man!
I bought one of those multi-size ones, and it fits in the right-side axle, but doesn't fit in the left-side bolt (the important side lol). Let me know if your multi-sized one fits in the left.
penguins when you say left, are you looking directly at the bike(standing in front, throttle side) Or sitting on the bike?(clutch side) I haven’t tried this because I don’t want my bike to be stuck in the garage lol but I’ll check if it fits well and let you know later today
@@osalcedoucmsae Always while sitting sitting on the bike. Let me know if you have the same issue, or if I just need to buy a better tool. As a workaround, in th-cam.com/video/rMe9qZWH6Iw/w-d-xo.html he loosens the axles from the right side, but that's not what the service manual says to do, and trying to tighten the whole axle instead of just the nut may result in lower than expected torque values when putting the wheel back on.
penguins you are totally right, i have a stockton multi size tool but it’s also too long to fit on the left side-_- I agree with you on the procedure, the workaround “works” but might not give proper results I don’t have a socket that fits like in the video so guess I gotta buy some more things, never ends lol
@@encryptify3625 So it's been a couple years, I believe I just got a 1/2 drive hex bit socket set and that worked. Does that make sense? I could be remembering completely wrong.
Good grief folks. TORQ SPECS are indentified in YOUR Service Manual. Each bike is different. While some specs will be the same, many are not. And if you can't afford a $120 (or less) Service Manual, at least get off your lazy ass and go down to your dealer and request a Torq Spec printout!!
If you are removing the front wheel, why the heck would you rest the calipers on top of the wheel? That makes no sense at all. Get some bungee cords and suspend the calipers from your handlebars or some other secured point. Not the wheel.
He said you will need one in the beginning if you were paying attention. Though he didn't use one because it's clearly not his first rodeo but feel free to use one if you must. He is not your mechanic nor is responsible for anything you do
🏍️TIP OF THE DAY🏍️
if you don't have the 22 mm hex for this application you can always use spark plug sockets in reverse.
Thanx for informative and edifying video. Planning on taking my front wheel off this weekend. I'm gonna grease all my bearings so my wheels will roll better and give me better gas millage
Just strolling around looking at videos on removing wheels on TH-cam. Did not expect to see a video from Halifax! It’s where I live!
Your video is well appreciated my guy Thanks
Thanks for vid, but you did not mention spinning the wheel and snapping the front brake to set the caliper bolts, which should be tightened after spinning the wheel, snaping and holding the break lever, then tighten both sides while the lever is held. So says Dave anyway, cheers
The fork legs have bosses to align the calipers on the ZX6. But thanks for the second hand tip 😉
Front axle? 127nm
Front axle clamp/pinch bolts? 20nm
Front brake calliper mounting bolts? 34nm
Simple enough!! Yet, worth the check just in case.. Thanks 🤘🏻
Nice video. Clear and concise. Isn't it recommended to apply hi-temp grease to the grease seals before installing the wheel back on?
Do you have the torque force specs for how tight to put those bolts and axle nut?
Did you mention to torque the big bolt? And to what amount?
back of a couple of spark plug sockets will fit the axel nuts btw
Probably a super late comment but what’s the name of those two Alan bolts you need undo to get the axel out? I stripped mine and can’t find and replacements online at all
Fork leg/axle pinch bolts.
When I loosened up the left 2 screws oil started to drip from the fork, why is that
The forks may have been pre-loaded inboard at the last seal change and took a seat. Now that the fork has been allowed to relax and align, the seal is not doing its job. I'd do a full fork service - the bushings could be worn also. Any movement in the piston with relation to the outer tube will identify bushing wear. If the bushings are good... just swap seals. Go with OEM, I've yet to see aftermarket last as long.
@@ColinBell321 thanks for the fast replay, the bike that I bought is a zx9r, and the guy who sold me said that he had a crash last year and that the front forks got "repaired", but clearly they aren't good, I found a orginal front fork from a zx9r from the same year is it better to buy it and replace the entire fork? Isn't that expensive around 200 euros what do you think?
@ak9784 for 200 euro it'd be a toss up as to what's more expensive. If the fork pistons are found bent, you'll need a new set anyway. If you twist the fork tubes in a full 360, is there any wobble?
@@ColinBell321 yes there is, and also I notice after 160-170 km/h(105mph) the front part od the bike starts to shake a little bit especially when I start braking at high speeds, btw the 2 front braking discs and 4 pads are new so it shouldn't be shaking like that when I brake
@ak9784 sounds like the forks are bent. I'd go for the new set. If the front shakes at high speed, the wheel could be out of balance, or slightly bent.
Could you provide the torque specs?
So wait a minute, you’re telling me I need two of those 22mm hex sockets?? I bought one of multi-size ones and was planning on changing my tire this weekend, would it work with 1?
Thanks man!
I bought one of those multi-size ones, and it fits in the right-side axle, but doesn't fit in the left-side bolt (the important side lol). Let me know if your multi-sized one fits in the left.
penguins when you say left, are you looking directly at the bike(standing in front, throttle side)
Or sitting on the bike?(clutch side)
I haven’t tried this because I don’t want my bike to be stuck in the garage lol but I’ll check if it fits well and let you know later today
@@osalcedoucmsae Always while sitting sitting on the bike. Let me know if you have the same issue, or if I just need to buy a better tool. As a workaround, in th-cam.com/video/rMe9qZWH6Iw/w-d-xo.html he loosens the axles from the right side, but that's not what the service manual says to do, and trying to tighten the whole axle instead of just the nut may result in lower than expected torque values when putting the wheel back on.
penguins you are totally right, i have a stockton multi size tool but it’s also too long to fit on the left side-_-
I agree with you on the procedure, the workaround “works” but might not give proper results
I don’t have a socket that fits like in the video so guess I gotta buy some more things, never ends lol
🏍️TIP OF THE DAY🏍️
if you don't have the 22 mm hex for this application you can always use the spark plug socket in reverse
You are the best
can you use that multi-size axle tool to loosen up the axle nut on the left side ?
On my 2006 ZX6R, the multi-size axle tool only fits on the right, it doesn't fit into the left.
@@penguins9645 same here. I asked around apparently nobody has ever encountered that this tool has ever not worked.
@@penguins9645 hey penguins, what did you end up doing? I’m trying to remove the front wheel on my 06 zx6r and I’m having the same problem as you
@@encryptify3625 So it's been a couple years, I believe I just got a 1/2 drive hex bit socket set and that worked. Does that make sense? I could be remembering completely wrong.
What kind of front stand is that and how’d u get the bike on it?
It's a cheap stand from Canadian Tire. There are two pins that pick up on the hole in the bottom of the fork legs.
Good well explained video
Hay how did u make ur forks red like that ??
They came factory like that.
@@ColinBell321 no fuckin way !!! Are u 100% sure ? Mines a 08 zX6r and I have a dole gold color
Good grief folks. TORQ SPECS are indentified in YOUR Service Manual. Each bike is different. While some specs will be the same, many are not. And if you can't afford a $120 (or less) Service Manual, at least get off your lazy ass and go down to your dealer and request a Torq Spec printout!!
If you are removing the front wheel, why the heck would you rest the calipers on top of the wheel? That makes no sense at all. Get some bungee cords and suspend the calipers from your handlebars or some other secured point. Not the wheel.
He didn't put callipers on wheel.
He meant the fairing bro
Mentioned nothin about needing a torque wrench Not listed in your tools👎🏽
Because you don't "need" one. If you are uncomfortable with what an appropriate torque feels like, you should grab one.
He said you will need one in the beginning if you were paying attention. Though he didn't use one because it's clearly not his first rodeo but feel free to use one if you must. He is not your mechanic nor is responsible for anything you do