One tip which will prevent paint from drying up is to clean the jar lip and the cap from residual paint before putting the cap back on. This will ensure proper air tight contact between surfaces when tightened closed. I have paint jars over 20 years old, saved thanks to this.
I used saran wrap to seal the caps too. Place the bottle under the wrap. And screw down the cap. I have also used things like RTV and Make-your-own gasket material to replace the OG seal.
Budget tip. If you want a cheaper alternative to hobby paint mixers just use a cappuccino frother. You can pick one up for about $5 - $10. I purchased one that was rechargeable with two attachments, one is the traditional frother attachment and the other is a whisk. The wisk is great for larger applications and the frother I cut down with my Dremel to make a simple L shaped stirrer that will fit in small bottles. You could even makeshift a small stirrer and attach with some epoxy. I’m starting my own channel focusing on budget hobby tips and diy supplies. Barbatos has inspired me to do so.
@@danrussell3439 Sure. My channel name is Budget Tabletop. You can find it here: youtube.com/@budgettabletopwargaming . It will be focusing on budget hints and tips for the miniature war gaming hobby, DIY hobby supplies such as paints (acrylic and oil), inks, washes, pigment powders, pastels, effect and texture paints, terrain supplies and builds, etc. I will be reviewing hobby tools and other necessities with a focus on quality budget alternatives to branded hobby tools. I will also be doing reviews and unboxings of fantasy war gaming games and miniatures, as well as 3D printed models and will be incorporating all of that into the DIY supplies stuff. My channel is up but I have yet to upload my first video. It will go up sometime this week. My first will be an unboxing of a massive US$700 + fantasy miniature game kickstarter lot I purchased for an absolute steal. If you’re interested, head over and subscribe. I’ll be dropping 2 - 3 videos a week.
That is a very useful solution Robert. We learn so much from you and your willingness to experiment and test all kinds of stuff for modellers. Cheers mate
Binder is correct. Essentially it "holds" the pigment "in suspension" without changing it's properties like a thinner would. There are a lot of very similar terms that have become interchangeable over time, but that do have distinct meanings. The worst offender is "thinner," but also leveler, dilution, flow improver, retarder, etc. Some terms are "incorrect" but still used for historical reasons. Some are mistranslations of translations between the UK, Germany, & the US. Some are marketing jargon. It's actually a topic that would make for a great video.
@@maqueteroloco1vk858 oh man I think I just filled some in an syringe and kept squirting it into the paint jar and mixing it until it dissolved the goo and got the paint to a nice even consistency.
This video was very helpful. There are times when I use paint one time for a project and may not use that paint again for awhile. Thanks for providing this information.
I always have this on hand. I often have extremely dried up lacquer paints so what I do is I just pour the solution in the bottle, close it tight and leave it for a few days until the paint soften and easier to stir. Works with primers as well.
I just received my ps-290 LWA Trigger type to use with my primers. I wanted a trigger type and was really amazed. $95 and well worth it! I believe all Creos are amazing brushes. Large tank on this for my larger 1/16 scale car models
interesting. I guess I'll tyo get a bottle of this magic juice. One question on, becassue this got me thinking. Do you know if there is a way to revive enamals? I got some AK-interaktive xtreme metal enamals that is lumped up, either to a "goo" or seem likes the particles have coagulated in to bigger particles and wont break down to the normal fine particles. . same goes with some enamal based washes I have from AK and MIG.
Thinking about getting some rust tones in Tamia and MrPaint after they're bone dry , and then grinding them up. Then apply them as weathering powders and trying to get them them wet with 99% rubbing or maybe the mr. Hobby resto - stuff ...as a wetting agent or just an adhesive activator.
Thanks for showing this product. I have a bunch of hard-to-get paints I have couriered back from Japan (Gaia Eva line etc) that are starting to shrink down with age. I would have just tipped thinner in but I like this solution much more.
I just got that exact airbrush 2 weeks ago and as usual I spent $15 more than it's on sale for now, haha Great video btw! I'm just getting started with solvent based paints so I will be sure to remember this trick.
I got a ps289 recently. Couldn’t get from Amazon UK or US for the sale price, but I did manage to get from Japan at a good price. I needed to wait a little longer for shipping, but I wasn’t in a rush
Quick question will this work on Floquil paints and Polly S ? Just want to say, I really enjoy your channel and do buy a lot that you present. Just got my Badger Sotar 2020 you reviewed, great airbrush. One one thing I like about the brush with the small cup, it does not block your view of the model. Thanks!
Great video - very useful information. If you or anyone in the community has a similar solution for dried up Testors Enamel paint, I would be very interested!
Barbarossa Rex, I really enjoy your channel, you have so much info and great tips for all modelers. Thanks so much and I appreciate your knowledge you are able to show and express. Again, thank you.
The 'Binder' is clear paint. So the rejuvinator you have is just lacquer thinner with a small amount of clear, at 10 times the price. All acrylic lacquer is made up of 3 parts: Pigment, binder and solvent.
I had a friend who took extra caps from each manufacturers paint bottle he had. He then drilled a hole in the caps to pass the mixer blade through. This kept splash and spill to a minimum.
EXCELLENT!! I have a few 'Mr. Color' paints and several more 'Tamiya' colors also, and a couple that are like that "mud" paint you have. I'll give this product a shot. Hey, 'B-Rex'....I got a video you should try.... How 'bout showing us a video of your Entire Work Area.......paints, equipment, models, etc. I have been watching your recent vids and I am Amazed on how Much Stuff you have. I think it could be kinda fun!!
Rex, I’m wondering where I can get the black plastic pieces that you spray in your examples. I like the swatch approach. Thanks for all you are doing to teach and help us paint…
Anything out there or recommendations to so the same saving of some Testors Model Master Enamel? As I use up MM colors I am replacing with Vallejo MC/MA, Mr. Hobby, and Mission Models; but I want to save and use what I have
Great video. I've over-acetoned a lacquer (conductive paint) and tried to revive it with thinner and clear lacquer. I was able to spray it but it wouldnt stick to anything. Would you say that the revived paint is as durable as the original paint after it has completely dried?
HEY Boss I ordered the Master G79 at your recommendation, it Arrived without the fan nozzle and Amazon will not replace the order or give a refund, the only reason I ordered it was to get the fan tip nozzle, do ?????? DO U KNOW WHERE I CAN GET ONE FROM, PLEASE SIR....
I haven't. I test clears over chrome and metal colors for you guys as I personally never spray clear over mine. It just changes it too much for me. But I can try that for you
So I got a fair few Mr color paints to take advantage of free shipping a year ago. A lot of the bottles I haven't even opened. About how long would you say an opened and unopened bottle of these liquor paints lasts before I would need to do something like this?
i wish I knew about this stuff before i tossed out all my dry paints they also sell dried paints for like 50 cents I wonder if i could save money like that
Any tips for opening up dried on paint lids/caps to the bottle? I am presuming I did not clean bottle lip before screwing on lid with these paints when I used them many years ago. Thanks for any suggestions.
I know that with metal lids like Testors you can use a lighter and heat it up around the lid for a few seconds and that should loosen it up. For Mr Color and Tamiya paint jars Mr Hobby GSI Creos makes a lid opener that looks like a wrench, item #GT56 Mr Cap Opener, it works on both Mr Color and Tamiya paint jars. I own one personally and it is great! Aside from that those are the only things that I’ve learned about with this hobby. Good luck.
@@jasonm.9863 Your welcome. Which method are you thinking about trying, or both? And one more thing with the metal lids just be ready to have a glove on when twisting the lid off to prevent any burns or blisters.
@@willisjackson7029 I am going to purchase the Mr Can Opener GT56. It is for my lids on all my Tamiya and Mr Hobby bottle. Thanks for the suggestion, including metal lids like Testors bottles.
I'm not sure if it's the same type of formula. I have Tru-Color here but no SMP. I'll have to look for a dried Tru and try it. I believe if it's a pure lacquer like Mr it will work but when you get into acrylic lacquers in not too sure but I personally believe it will work as I use lacquer thinner to thin all of my non acrylic paint
@@barbatosrex9473 thanks. About 20 years ago I bought a bunch of SMP Accupaint in some colors that i use to paint locomotives. The paint has become very viscous but it will seems to recover with adding thinner. Like you it didn’t seem quite right. At first I thought it was because I used plain acetone. I picked up Tru-Color thinner which worked a little better. Now I’m waiting on Tru-Color Rejuvenator. Their stuff is getting expensive and I really wonder how similar it is to Mr. Color.
It just so happens that I've been dealing with a bottle of Tamiya brown that is turning soupy-goopy. This may just be the magic potion it needs. Thank you!
If any of the viewers are familiar with original 1960s and 1970s era Floquil model railroad paints, ... they are a true laquer that was thinned with their product called Dio-Sol. It smelled like toluene was one of the ingredients.. Anyway, its long out of production, but millions of bottles of it are still out there, some dried up in the bottle. If anyone has any experience with reviving old Floquil, can you please share the solvent or solvent blend you used, here in the comments?
I model narrow gauge and it is a frequent conversation on all the forums. There are three ingredients, but I will have to dig around and find the ratio of mixture. I can't remember the third ingredient but will look it up. I do know (because I bought a gallon of each) Toluene and Xylene are two of them. I will repost when I find the info.
Just found the info...38% Toluene; 41% Xylene; 21% Solvesso 100. And I quote, "Solvesso 100 is a long evaporation rate aromatic hydrocarbon solvent. Getting the touene and xylene is not difficult, but Sovesso 100 is only available through chemical suppliers or Sherwin Williams as Naptha 100." I remember when I went down this road, sherwin Williams did not want to sell me the Naptha 100 because I'm not a licensed contractor.
@Barbatos Rex oh cool! Hope you make a video before I been having issues with dust in general lol. Mr hobby has a dusting brush for 89 bucks 😵😵 made out of gold or something? 😆
One tip which will prevent paint from drying up is to clean the jar lip and the cap from residual paint before putting the cap back on. This will ensure proper air tight contact between surfaces when tightened closed. I have paint jars over 20 years old, saved thanks to this.
I used saran wrap to seal the caps too. Place the bottle under the wrap. And screw down the cap.
I have also used things like RTV and Make-your-own gasket material to replace the OG seal.
Budget tip. If you want a cheaper alternative to hobby paint mixers just use a cappuccino frother. You can pick one up for about $5 - $10. I purchased one that was rechargeable with two attachments, one is the traditional frother attachment and the other is a whisk. The wisk is great for larger applications and the frother I cut down with my Dremel to make a simple L shaped stirrer that will fit in small bottles. You could even makeshift a small stirrer and attach with some epoxy. I’m starting my own channel focusing on budget hobby tips and diy supplies. Barbatos has inspired me to do so.
Can you provide info on your channel
@@danrussell3439 Sure. My channel name is Budget Tabletop. You can find it here: youtube.com/@budgettabletopwargaming . It will be focusing on budget hints and tips for the miniature war gaming hobby, DIY hobby supplies such as paints (acrylic and oil), inks, washes, pigment powders, pastels, effect and texture paints, terrain supplies and builds, etc. I will be reviewing hobby tools and other necessities with a focus on quality budget alternatives to branded hobby tools. I will also be doing reviews and unboxings of fantasy war gaming games and miniatures, as well as 3D printed models and will be incorporating all of that into the DIY supplies stuff. My channel is up but I have yet to upload my first video. It will go up sometime this week. My first will be an unboxing of a massive US$700 + fantasy miniature game kickstarter lot I purchased for an absolute steal. If you’re interested, head over and subscribe. I’ll be dropping 2 - 3 videos a week.
@@RuthlessMojo when will you be posting content
That is a very useful solution Robert. We learn so much from you and your willingness to experiment and test all kinds of stuff for modellers. Cheers mate
Binder is correct. Essentially it "holds" the pigment "in suspension" without changing it's properties like a thinner would. There are a lot of very similar terms that have become interchangeable over time, but that do have distinct meanings. The worst offender is "thinner," but also leveler, dilution, flow improver, retarder, etc. Some terms are "incorrect" but still used for historical reasons. Some are mistranslations of translations between the UK, Germany, & the US. Some are marketing jargon. It's actually a topic that would make for a great video.
I had that airbrush for over a year and never knew about that quarter turn back flush. Lol Good to know!
It's a great tip for sure 👍
I reconstituted a 15 year old dried up bottle of Model Master Acrylic with the 400 Leveling Thinner successfully and sprayed on great.
How many drops did you need it for restoring the Model Master paint?
@@maqueteroloco1vk858 oh man I think I just filled some in an syringe and kept squirting it into the paint jar and mixing it until it dissolved the goo and got the paint to a nice even consistency.
This video was very helpful. There are times when I use paint one time for a project and may not use that paint again for awhile. Thanks for providing this information.
I always have this on hand. I often have extremely dried up lacquer paints so what I do is I just pour the solution in the bottle, close it tight and leave it for a few days until the paint soften and easier to stir. Works with primers as well.
I just received my ps-290 LWA Trigger type to use with my primers. I wanted a trigger type and was really amazed. $95 and well worth it! I believe all Creos are amazing brushes. Large tank on this for my larger 1/16 scale car models
interesting. I guess I'll tyo get a bottle of this magic juice. One question on, becassue this got me thinking. Do you know if there is a way to revive enamals? I got some AK-interaktive xtreme metal enamals that is lumped up, either to a "goo" or seem likes the particles have coagulated in to bigger particles and wont break down to the normal fine particles. . same goes with some enamal based washes I have from AK and MIG.
Thinking about getting some rust tones in Tamia and MrPaint after they're bone dry , and then grinding them up. Then apply them as weathering powders and trying to get them them wet with 99% rubbing or maybe the mr. Hobby resto - stuff ...as a wetting agent or just an adhesive activator.
Thanks for showing this product. I have a bunch of hard-to-get paints I have couriered back from Japan (Gaia Eva line etc) that are starting to shrink down with age. I would have just tipped thinner in but I like this solution much more.
I just got that exact airbrush 2 weeks ago and as usual I spent $15 more than it's on sale for now, haha Great video btw! I'm just getting started with solvent based paints so I will be sure to remember this trick.
I was about to use my modo primers and they are now looking like jelly so imma get me some of this replenishing agent
Thank you so much, I've been looking for a product to revive my paints instead of throwing them away. This will be very helpful
I ask a question in a different video you had this answer my question thanks for your PRO TIPS.
Thanks!
You're welcome my friend. You guys are the best out there
I got a ps289 recently. Couldn’t get from Amazon UK or US for the sale price, but I did manage to get from Japan at a good price. I needed to wait a little longer for shipping, but I wasn’t in a rush
That sounds like a great tool for may paint! Wonder if that would be a good base for mica powders?!
Quick question will this work on Floquil paints and Polly S ? Just want to say, I really enjoy your channel and do buy a lot that you present. Just got my Badger Sotar 2020 you reviewed, great airbrush. One one thing I like about the brush with the small cup, it does not block your view of the model. Thanks!
Hi guys. I hope all of you are doing well today.
I hope you’re doing well as well my friend
Very useful information since model paints are costly. Thank you Robert and always learning from your channel. Cheers!
Well I learn something Everytime I watch thank you.
oh that's interesting... i have issues with my Vallejo game color paints drying out.
Great video - very useful information. If you or anyone in the community has a similar solution for dried up Testors Enamel paint, I would be very interested!
Barbarossa Rex, I really enjoy your channel, you have so much info and great tips for all modelers. Thanks so much and I appreciate your knowledge you are able to show and express. Again, thank you.
Excellent tip and video.
The 'Binder' is clear paint. So the rejuvinator you have is just lacquer thinner with a small amount of clear, at 10 times the price. All acrylic lacquer is made up of 3 parts: Pigment, binder and solvent.
I always want to get one of thoes grex they look so nice!
I had a friend who took extra caps from each manufacturers paint bottle he had. He then drilled a hole in the caps to pass the mixer blade through. This kept splash and spill to a minimum.
Great information. This will come in handy. Keep em coming I'll keep watching
EXCELLENT!!
I have a few 'Mr. Color' paints and several more 'Tamiya' colors also, and a couple that are like that "mud" paint you have. I'll give this product a shot.
Hey, 'B-Rex'....I got a video you should try....
How 'bout showing us a video of your Entire Work Area.......paints, equipment, models, etc. I have been watching your recent vids and I am Amazed on how Much Stuff you have. I think it could be kinda fun!!
Ive had Acrylics dry up in the oast but never Lacquers since they have solvent in the bottle.
Rex, I’m wondering where I can get the black plastic pieces that you spray in your examples. I like the swatch approach.
Thanks for all you are doing to teach and help us paint…
Those are plastic sheets by Evergreen Scale Models
Does it work on primer👍
Anything out there or recommendations to so the same saving of some Testors Model Master Enamel? As I use up MM colors I am replacing with Vallejo MC/MA, Mr. Hobby, and Mission Models; but I want to save and use what I have
You the man Robert!
is there is something for 30 year old dried up warhammer paints?
Great video. I've over-acetoned a lacquer (conductive paint) and tried to revive it with thinner and clear lacquer. I was able to spray it but it wouldnt stick to anything. Would you say that the revived paint is as durable as the original paint after it has completely dried?
HEY Boss I ordered the Master G79 at your recommendation, it Arrived without the fan nozzle and Amazon will not replace the order or give a refund, the only reason I ordered it was to get the fan tip nozzle, do ?????? DO U KNOW WHERE I CAN GET ONE FROM, PLEASE SIR....
I did not know Mr Color made a specific reviver solvent. I'm ordering some at my next purchase.
Add some seranwrap under the cap
Is there a similar product to bring back acrylics?
I'm looking into that
Have you tried putting clear over the polished steel?
I haven't. I test clears over chrome and metal colors for you guys as I personally never spray clear over mine. It just changes it too much for me. But I can try that for you
Great video.Good tips.
Well I now have this brush to go with my 3 Grex guns guess I got brushes covered
So I got a fair few Mr color paints to take advantage of free shipping a year ago. A lot of the bottles I haven't even opened. About how long would you say an opened and unopened bottle of these liquor paints lasts before I would need to do something like this?
I opened a but ch of mine today, had them for 3 years. Only a handful were dried up
Will this work on the MCW paint, or your MECA line?
I haven't tried it but I use odorless mineral spirits
i wish I knew about this stuff before i tossed out all my dry paints they also sell dried paints for like 50 cents I wonder if i could save money like that
Any tips for opening up dried on paint lids/caps to the bottle? I am presuming I did not clean bottle lip before screwing on lid with these paints when I used them many years ago. Thanks for any suggestions.
I know that with metal lids like Testors you can use a lighter and heat it up around the lid for a few seconds and that should loosen it up. For Mr Color and Tamiya paint jars Mr Hobby GSI Creos makes a lid opener that looks like a wrench, item #GT56 Mr Cap Opener, it works on both Mr Color and Tamiya paint jars. I own one personally and it is great! Aside from that those are the only things that I’ve learned about with this hobby. Good luck.
@@willisjackson7029 thanks alot I'll look into that. 👍
@@jasonm.9863 Your welcome. Which method are you thinking about trying, or both? And one more thing with the metal lids just be ready to have a glove on when twisting the lid off to prevent any burns or blisters.
@@willisjackson7029 I am going to purchase the Mr Can Opener GT56. It is for my lids on all my Tamiya and Mr Hobby bottle. Thanks for the suggestion, including metal lids like Testors bottles.
@@jasonm.9863 Good luck. It’s a great tool. I bought mine about 5 years ago and it costed around $10 U.S. or just a little bit less.
I bought that airbrush for $112 and it is completely worth it at that price.
Awesome airbrush for sure
@@barbatosrex9473 Yeah.. I bought it bc of one of your videos.
Will this work with SMP Accupaint or Tru-Color paint?
I'm not sure if it's the same type of formula. I have Tru-Color here but no SMP. I'll have to look for a dried Tru and try it. I believe if it's a pure lacquer like Mr it will work but when you get into acrylic lacquers in not too sure but I personally believe it will work as I use lacquer thinner to thin all of my non acrylic paint
@@barbatosrex9473 thanks. About 20 years ago I bought a bunch of SMP Accupaint in some colors that i use to paint locomotives. The paint has become very viscous but it will seems to recover with adding thinner. Like you it didn’t seem quite right. At first I thought it was because I used plain acetone. I picked up Tru-Color thinner which worked a little better. Now I’m waiting on Tru-Color Rejuvenator. Their stuff is getting expensive and I really wonder how similar it is to Mr. Color.
It just so happens that I've been dealing with a bottle of Tamiya brown that is turning soupy-goopy. This may just be the magic potion it needs. Thank you!
Bought AK Primer after one month the primer was chunky
That’s not a paint “collection” ……..it’s a paint depository for the ages!😀
its laquer medium for the mr hobby paints and varnish not for the acrylic series.
Sorry realized my mistake it's the g77 that has the fan tip not the g79.....
If any of the viewers are familiar with original 1960s and 1970s era Floquil model railroad paints, ... they are a true laquer that was thinned with their product called Dio-Sol. It smelled like toluene was one of the ingredients.. Anyway, its long out of production, but millions of bottles of it are still out there, some dried up in the bottle. If anyone has any experience with reviving old Floquil, can you please share the solvent or solvent blend you used, here in the comments?
I model narrow gauge and it is a frequent conversation on all the forums. There are three ingredients, but I will have to dig around and find the ratio of mixture. I can't remember the third ingredient but will look it up. I do know (because I bought a gallon of each) Toluene and Xylene are two of them. I will repost when I find the info.
Just found the info...38% Toluene; 41% Xylene; 21% Solvesso 100. And I quote, "Solvesso 100 is a long evaporation rate aromatic hydrocarbon solvent. Getting the touene and xylene is not difficult, but Sovesso 100 is only available through chemical suppliers or Sherwin Williams as Naptha 100." I remember when I went down this road, sherwin Williams did not want to sell me the Naptha 100 because I'm not a licensed contractor.
Up here we have only to craft store, but there are far
God I wish I had seen this a year ago, I tossed 20 bottles of HOK automotive paints they were all automotive lacquers
Lazarus Liquid!
What is that dust dabber? Lol
I'm testing ways to dust off models
@Barbatos Rex oh cool! Hope you make a video before I been having issues with dust in general lol. Mr hobby has a dusting brush for 89 bucks 😵😵 made out of gold or something? 😆
Sorry if I missed it but can you use too much of this?
Not really, it's not an exact science. But 50/50 is the standard to start with