BendPak MaxJax M6K Home Garage Car Lift Installation Tips, Testing, and Amperage Measurements.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- Please like and subscribe, thank you! Unloading the MaxJax from an SUV, discussion on concrete anchors, lifting a couple cars, and testing the max capacity. I also measure the amperage draw @ 120VAC for a couple different size vehicles.
www.maxjax.com...
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Amazon affiliate links to tools used for the installation. Thanks for helping the channel!
SDS-Plus Hammer Drill
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Diablo 7/8"x8"x10" Rebar Demon SDS-Plus
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Sika Anchorfix-2 adhesive
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DC600 Dual Component Adhesive Applicator
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Nice. We use the diablo SDS-max drill bits for making vacuum boom and pay station anchors.
Thank you, so much for showing what I was feeling what would happen!! I'm getting ready to pour my foundation at 5". The manufacturer of mine states to drill holes to 6". YIKES! My builder said he'll put pylons to a depth of 8" where the plates will go.
Where there's a will there's a way......nice job getting it out.
Good vid. Learned a lot here from vid and from you responding to so many comments. thanks.👍 I want one so bad.
Nice to finally see some real world feedback on install and use with this lift amongst all of the basically paid advertisement type of setup videos... What is the distance from the outside of the back plate to outside of back plate for the spread on the columns? MJ suggests a spread of 105-135", curious as to what yours are at and if you wished you had them closer/further away after using it for a couple of years. Also, do you remember what the actual depth of your concrete was during install?
I went 130" outside to outside at the base. I'm happy with that width. Been able to lift everything from my little Geo Tracker all the way up to my Ford Expedition EL. I wanted as much width as was reasonable to let me access the vehicle while it was on the lift for some jobs and it is helpful. Also makes it easier to leave them mounted to the floor and park between them even though they are designed to be unbolted and moved I prefer to leave them installed and ready. Plus I figured the anchors were less likely to loosen up over time.
Only thing I think I would change or still may do is run the hoses up to the ceiling and across to the pump so they aren't running across the floor while in use. Not a big deal but do trip over them on occasion and have to lift the roller carts over them.
@@shanesdiy Thanks for the response 👍
Thanks for going through your thin concrete challenge for us. That is one of my biggest concerns. I have a Tundra and was wondering about how that would lift.
I saw one guy had giant jackstands. They were about 4 feet tall, he would put them under there after jacking it up and I would do the same if I were you. Your concrete looks very solid, but you just don’t know and why take chances.
I add support strategically when I feel the need just like you would with any lift. I use the lift often for a wide variety of vehicles and it hasn't given me any reason to be concerned yet. I perform a "pre-flight" before every use, inspecting the equipment, hoses, and the base anchors for any signs of loosening. Still holding strong. I modified a transmission lift for use with the MaxJax recently, video should be coming soon on that project.
Great video! Thanks for all the info and measurements.
I just ordered my MaxJax today from Home Depot... 10% off sale... unreal how prices for lifts have more than doubled in the past 2 years... guess I should have bought mine 3 years ago when I started looking at them!
Glad you found the video useful. Enjoy it, they are awesome!
@@shanesdiy Hey... I'm thinking about using epoxy when I install the regular anchors.... do you think I'd have enough time to torque the anchor before the epoxy sets up?
Nice video -especially since I have an Expedition and similar ceiling height. I have been looking at the two post and scissor lifts, but each has its advantages and disadvantages. This gave me some good info.
Wall mount garage door opener!
Unbelievable! Very nice both the jack and your install video! I was riveted to you the whole time thanks Shane! Oh man could I use one of these on my farm! I'm aiming to a better life again and I have my sights set! Your a great watch no doubt, just enough of you and the very detailed shots of the voltage/amp shots! Love IT! For the less inclined I suppose you could set a dog toy like a squishy ball on the ceiling that would squeak or something for added surety when lifting and have it squeak a warning that your approaching the crush zone lol!
Haha, thanks for the compliments. The ball or squeaky toy on the ceiling is a great idea!
Great video! Very informative and appreciate the measurements.
Fantastic lift and car 👍👍👍👍👍 nice job on the install..
Thanks 👍
I had the older version. The original Maxjax 10yrs ago. Worked great but one thing that bothered me and many others was that even though it was leveled during installation once you lifted a vehicle the towers became out of level. The towers would collapse about 1/4 in inward. I never had any accidents with all the different vehicles I put on it but just never felt comfortable underneath the cars. I worked under there with the thoughts of always being ready to run out. I even put wheels under the cars to save me. With this new version. Lift a vehicle then put a level on the towers. Let me know if it tilts inward. Thanks
I may have put a measurement in the comments somewhere but they do flex inward slightly under weight. The flex doesn't concern me as long as the base is secure, bolts remain torqued and there is no gap under the base that would indicate the anchors were compromised. I check torque periodically and after lifting I'll make sure the base hasn't lifted.
Nice lift. I set mine up the same way as you. I was too tired to shoot any videos after installation though😆😆
Shane, good to see I'm not the only one to get around in gumboots, I do it as where I live in Australia we have quite a few brown snakes, why risk it right.
Haha, yep. I'm in the desert with lots of dirt, chicken & duck poop, cactus, and mud when it decides to rain. Plus they are easy to slip on when heading out on the property! Thanks for stopping by the channel!
I appreciate the video. Been very helpful.
I just installed one and instructions say you need at least 4” slab but in reality you need 5-6” because they make you drill 5” deep and when you set the anchors you set them 5/8 below and it comes up when they set, i had 5” slab and worked fine
Agree, not sure 4" is quite enough. Made it frustrating for me having to redo a few of the anchors. I sure love having the lift! Hope you are enjoying yours, it is a life changer!
Standard for a two post hoist is a 6" slab. Most homes will only be built to the minimum 4"
@@shanesdiy yes sir i am enjoying it and is a life saver working at home out of my garage
I've thought if there is anxiety over depth of concrete that a solution would be to weld a plate onto and outboard of each floor support and add 2 more anchors to add leveraged strength.
Haven't finished video quite so, sorry if you answer this later, you've marked out a nice location, why not rent a saw, cut out the square, Pour some fresh concrete? It'd fill the void, you can make sure psi is high enough, and put your bolts right in the concrete.
Probably would have been the wise thing to do but I was confident I could make it work. Short answer? Impatience... Fortunately in my case the final install has been secure and strong. I use it often and after one re-torque of the anchors about 6 months in they haven't loosened up since. I check the torque about every 6 months or so to be sure they are still tight.
awesome work man!!
You are a beast!!! Nice work!!!
Thank you Shane for the detailed video. A statement and then a question for you. BenPak advertises the MaxLift as a portable unit, how is that true if you need to Molly down the jack? And what dictates the distance (left and right) from each of the towers? From the video it appears that your distance seems further than necessary, and you could have benefited by having them a bit closer together. Thank you
It would be pretty easy to unbolt one or both of the posts and roll them into the corner. I choose not to as I use them quite often. I think the manual gives you a recommended width "range". I gave it a lot of thought before selecting a width. I decided on the width of mine based on the range of vehicle sizes I wanted to fit. I have everything from a really small Geo Tracker all the way up to my Ford Expedition EL and so far it fits them all. I went a little on the wider side also because since I wanted to leave them mounted all the time I wanted a bit more room to park my car between them without being too tight.
I personally would not want them closer. I often find myself needing to open the vehicle door to get in to work a clutch, brakes, or steering and even with the wider width of mine, it is a tight squeeze to get through the door while on the lift even with a smaller car like my Evo or neighbors 350Z.
Thanks for the comments and questions and thank you watching! I hope the information helps you make an educated decision! I can't imagine life without my lift any more...
Great video. I have a few of questions if you don't mind. I don't know if I wasn't listening (something my wife says happens(or something like that, she was mumbling)) but how tall is your ceiling? How do you like it after having it and using it for awhile? How high does it lift? What creeper is that? I have the six ton mid rise scissor lift and it's great for most things in my garage, but sometimes the access to more of the underside of the car would be nice too. Thanks for the video
Always happy to answer questions. The ceiling height is 10' 4". The bottom of the lift arms are 41" from the floor when sitting on the top safety locks. Depending on which lift pad risers I use the lift pads will be about 45-50" above the floor to where it contacts the vehicle. The creeper is the one MaxJax sells. I purchased the complete package that came with a bunch of extra accessories like the oil container with high funnel, 6" risers, and the reclining creeper. I also roll around on a small roller seat if he car on the lift has enough clearance.
I love it just as much, if not more, than when I got it. I use it very often for my own fleet of cars and I now help friends and neighbors with their vehicles much more frequently. I've done some big projects I otherwise would have not attempted as I just don't want to lay on the concrete any more, too old for that!
Thanks for the comments and for watching! FYI some of those measurements were at about the 30 minute mark. I know it was a long video, tried to keep it short but was quite a lot to cover.
@@shanesdiy Thanks for the quick answers! I don't know how I missed the measurements. I must have been distracted. I didn't think it was overly long.
We're in a similar situation, between the wife and I we have seven vehicles and I'm at an age where laying on the concrete doesn't appeal to me either.
Thanks again
Use some expanding spray foam to fill cavity below the bolf hole
Yes, in hindsight that would have been very helpful to save epoxy.
Are you joking?
He's referring to the open space i created when I had to pound the old anchor down through the foundation. That cavity consumed huge amounts of epoxy to get up to the actual anchor hole. Probably 90% of that wasted epoxy is not doing much to aid the structural integrity of the anchor.
Great video….I just saw this video.. So I take it that your concrete floor is less then 4 inches an is less then 3,000 psi of compressive strength how is the floor holding up .. your video is very informative…excellent job
Actually the building spec was that it was 4" and 3000 psi rated. I think in the area of that one post, it must have been slightly less than 4". So far it is showing no signs of weakening nor are the anchors loosening up or pulling out. I use it quite a bit so I am quite confident in it. Only issue is one sides quick coupler has a bit of a leak so the area is oily from hydraulic fluid. It's a working garage so I'm not all that worried about a little oil. To pull the fitting off and fix it I'd have to drain all the fluid out of the post so for now, the small leak isn't worth the trouble to fix.
Wouldn't it be easier if you spent all that time making this work at the beginning when you drilled your first hole. You then found out that the concrete was not thick. You then decide to cut out a piece of that concrete double the size you need. Dig out the dirt making it deeper. Pouring new concrete 5,000 psi. And I think it would be the same amount of time you spent trying to make it work.
I've seen a few folks do that but I didn't want to do it that way. That would have taken way longer and cost much more money. I only had to fix 3 anchors total with the epoxy, in the big scheme of things it wasn't that big of a deal and it is still very secure and I use it often. Couple things I would do differently if I were to do it again like use the epoxy anchors from the start as MaxJax suggested to me when I spoke to them. They cost a few bucks but after using them, they are pretty nice and would have been really easy to use them initially.
@@shanesdiy yeah I can see why you would do that hindsight being 20/20 and all it's easy for me to say what you should have done. It works that's what counts
Great video!
Great video to help us with pretty much same slap inch’s you may have. You should do a video of how the epoxy is hold the lift up with a vehicle on it.
Good luck with your installation, you are going to love it! Thank you for the suggestion on a follow up video. I see zero movement in the mounts. I just wish I would have just done the epoxy from the start so I didn't have to hammer the old anchors down and make a big crater that had to be filled with epoxy. Would have been simple with a nice 7/8 hole and much less epoxy per hole, slip in the anchor and let it set.
Wow, what a colossal pain in the ass. I think I'm going to go with quickjacks after seeing this.
The Quickjacks are a nice product, one of my friends has them since he had a tension slab and was not able to drill into it for these posts. I considered Quickjacks but the lower height is very limiting and most of all, you have little to no access from the sides of the vehicle for servicing. For basic work like wheels/tires, brakes, oil changes, etc. the Quickjacks are great. I have done some larger projects like pulling transmissions where the Quickjacks would not have cut it and I was grateful for my MaxJax!
I was curious how far apart your posts are? From back side plate to the other backside plate?
I did 104" inside base to inside base width. Outside to outside of base is 130". I went a bit on the wide side due to the broad range of vehicle sizes I wanted to put on it. So far I'm happy with this spacing, works with my small stuff like my Geo Tracker all the way up to my Ford Expedition EL.
@@shanesdiy Thanks for the response! I'm going to either do 125 or 130 I think, 65 Mustang and maybe my daughters jeep compass. I think 125 works, but may opt to go 130 if I can line it up right in my 3rd car bay.
Great video!!!! I have been looking at these for a while now as well, mainly because you can unbolt and movs them if you need to. How do you find them now after a bit of use? Any regrets on this model????
I use the lift quite a bit and still working flawlessly. I have room so never move them around but can if necessary. Just posted a new video yesterday, had my brothers Honda Goldwing on the lift with the motorcycle adapter! Worked great.
I'd be willing to bet that the Expedition is too heavy for this lift, because of weight bias. Each arm on that lift would be rated at 1,500lb. Your vehicle will be heavier at the front because of the engine, and transmission
I've had the Expedition up and down the lift a number of times since the video and it's never had any trouble lifting it or felt "wobbly". When properly centered on the lift the weight is quite balanced, if not it would be prone to tipping forward. No easy way for me to weight how much is on each lift arm.
You could be correct but in my experience so far it has not given me cause for concern. I expect they have to build in some safety margin per arm if they rate the entire lift at 6000 lbs.
Most residential garages have a floor that is slightly angled away from the house. Is that an issue? Do the posts have to be perfectly vertical? Can they be shimmed?
My concrete was level and I didn't need any shims. If you needed them, I don't think it would be any issue. As for needing to be perfectly level, just my opinion, but if they are within 1/4" or so at the tops I doubt you'd know the difference. Each side lifts independent of the other so they can move a bit without any negative impact.
@@shanesdiy Thank you!
I would have poor a bag of self leveling cement in those holes. wait until was hard and go forward with the drill and dill the new poured cement so that now it will let you hold on the anchor
In hindsight that probably would have been a great idea.
How thick is that slab? I'm unfortunately running into the issue of mine being only 3-3.5 inches thick. Have the lift sitting here ready 😔
Spec on mine was 3000 psi and 4". MaxJax web site currently says it requires 4.25" minimum, I think at the time it used to say 4" but I can't recall for sure. Mine were right on the edge of being ok. As you see in the video I had to switch to the epoxy type on a few that wouldn't torque properly with the standard anchors. At only 3-3.5" I think your only option is to cut out a square where the posts need to go and pour a deeper pad in those two spots with re-bar enforcement, wait for it to fully cure and then finish the install. I debated doing that but wasn't patient enough. Been using it for over a year now and mine are ok, I re-torqued once and re-checked later after that and they were still good. I got away with it, not sure you can with concrete that thin. Sorry, I know that is a bummer but that's too thin to trust with your life. Good luck and be safe.
Thank you. Yes, I was considering giving it a shot bc I'm impatient, but I also don't want to die or , at least, have to worry about it every time I use the lift. I'll be getting some quotes on concrete.
@@SWAPPED_IT Don't even waste your time trying. I have the same issue and now I'm going to cut out 3ftx3ftx12in deep footers and put in some 5000psi concrete and then use the epoxy anchors. I can't imagine trying to use 6in epoxy anchors in 4.25" concrete or less, that makes no sense.
How long did you wait after adding the expoxy for you to use the lift?
I think I waited 2-3 days if I remember correctly. It hardens pretty fast, probably ok in 24 hours but I waited more just to be safe. If you think there is any chance your concrete isn't deep enough I would do the epoxy anchors. I was debating to try the normal ones and wish I would have just done the epoxy ones from the beginning. Would have saved me a lot of work and time.
Great video - glad to see it worked out well for you! I have one on order and I have a 4" slab and am concerned I will run into the same issues.
Did Bendpak recommend the epoxy anchor kit to resolve the fact that some of the concrete was not thick enough? I can only find info showing that they are just an alternative to the standard anchors and still require the same depth of slab (if not more).
It seems the most common route for thin slabs is to cut a section and pour new concrete. Curious why you didn't go that route.
I didn't want the hassle of cutting out a square, pouring a new slab and waiting for 4+ weeks for it to cure before I could install the anchors and the lift.
They suggested I might need the epoxy anchors before I ordered it but figured I would give it a try with the standard anchors.
My biggest issue using the epoxy anchors was that I had to hammer the old ones down through the slab into the dirt below which hollowed out a large cavity that had to be filled with epoxy. Had I just drilled the holes for the epoxy anchors first it would have taken much less epoxy and been way better. They are not any shorter but the epoxy eliminates the possibility of the anchor not holding since the epoxy holds the entire length of the anchor. The normal anchors only have the lower end that expands and holds.
Hope that made sense. If I did it again I would use the epoxy anchors from the start. If you think your concrete is borderline thickness you might want to do epoxy.
@@shanesdiy good to know. I'll have to make that decision when it shows up and I have all the holes drilled. Definitely not ideal having the concrete borderline and since it's backordered until June here in Canada, I'll have to patiently wait to find out.
What width did you go with for install from back of base plate to the other back of the base plate. I'm thinking of using 120-125 inches as i need to lift a medium SUV as well.
I did 104" inside base to inside base width. Outside to outside of base is 130". A little closer would be nice for some of the smaller cars but I can easily do my Expedition and the small cars haven't been a problem yet.
Great video! What is the distance that you have the two jacks apart?
I have mine 104" between the bases, inside width. For smaller vehicles it would be nice to have them closer together but I wanted it to fit all my vehicles from my little Geo Tracker up to my Ford Expedition EL. It has handled all my vehicles great so far.
Getting ready to pour concrete. I’m making it 8” where the post go. Is your concrete 4000 psi? by the way it turned out awesome!
HI Shane. You might have missed it in the video, but what is the spacing you used between each post?
I did 104" inside to inside base. Outside of the base to outside is 130". I'm pretty happy with the width as so far it has worked well with a wide variety of vehicles.
@@shanesdiy Great! This info will help, as I have a f150 and a few small cars. Wasn't sure what the sweet spot would be for spacing. If the spacing has been working out great for you, then I might consider it as well.
@@8teenclan602 Make sure to mock it all up before drilling is my advice. Lifting locations vary wildly car to car depending if you have a full frame or unibody. I’m at 119 end to end. Good luck!
Notice your engine hoist is pneumatic where can I buy this item
It was originally a manual jack on the engine hoist that had failed and I purchased the pneumatic version at Harbor Freight but looking at their web site I do not see it any more. There are some pneumatic long ram jacks on Amazon that should work. Here is a link to one that should fit on a standard engine hoist but you'll have to confirm before ordering it.
amzn.to/3GN5Q3w
Anchoring epoxy
What’s with the wellingtons dude?
Haha, I was working out with the chickens and ducks before I started on this, still had the boots on. Lol.
I’m curious, how deep was your concrete?
Company that poured it said it was 4" thick, 3000 psi.
How is the cost for max jack ?
I paid $3020 for the MaxJax kit but I got the "ultimate package" that had all the extras. I later purchased the epoxy anchor kit which was $238. I also purchased a few tools to get the job done, links are in the video description for those. These include hammer drill and bit, epoxy applicator gun, etc. Not sure what the MaxJax is selling for now. I am very satisfied with the lift, it has made my life so much better when I need to work on any vehicles.
Kind of an awkward lifting hight isn’t it?
Would be nice to be able to walk around upright under it but I have adapted. Get the right height roller stools, jacks, etc. and it works out. When I did a 350Z transmission removal I used my 6" extensions and that did make quite a difference. Still could not walk upright under it but it was much better. Just takes a few minutes more to get it up on the high extensions. Not worth the trouble unless you really need the clearance.
be careful with these anchors, turns out BendPak does not use a reputable brand for these but rather a copy/replica of what its supposed to be with no specs to share.
Look 👀 i know it’s me okay,but has one of these ever Ever failed
If one of these, or any lift for that matter, failed it would most likely be due to installer or operator error. The lift is just a large beam of steel and a hydraulic cylinder. Unless you overload it that isn't going to fail and if it came out of the concrete it would be due to improper installation.
That said, I'm sure you could find reports of failed lifts if you search the web. I was a little apprehensive at first but now that I've had cars up on it dozens of times and worked under it for many hours I am not worried at all. Follow the precautions, pay attention to what you are doing, use the safety stops, balance the vehicle, etc.
Thanks for your video, it was very informative and I appreciate you taking time to show all dimensions in the lifted position. I would love a hoist in my garage like that one. Thanks again for your video.
This is a very questionable install. The concrete slab is too thin; he should have cut a section and poured in new concrete with sufficient rebar. Chemical anchors are not a replacement for thin concrete.
Installed over a year ago, I use it often and it hasn't budged. Anchors are solid. Absolutely, if you are installing yours and feel the concrete isn't sufficient, cut it out and make it so. I made a judgment call and it hasn't given me any reason to loose confidence in it yet. I check the anchors often and check the torque. I appreciate the good advise for the viewers.
Hello Shane, thanks for some of the detailed you have included in your video. this has helped me prior to installing mine. I just got mine installed and i noticed one of my post was tilting inward slightly when lifting a video. I also noticed that yours seem to be doing the same at 23:02 when you life the evo. I posted a video on my page, can you confirm if your post is doing the same thing? any comments or response would be appreciated!
th-cam.com/video/-Tw8N5ZstU0/w-d-xo.html
I don't see any movement in my video at the time stamp you mentioned. I've never noticed any movement like I see in your video that seems excessive.
I would lift yours and when you see that movement see if a gap opens up on the outside of the base. See if its tight when down and when it leans see if a credit card will slide under it. Perhaps your anchors are not torqued tight enough or the anchors are moving? If the base isn't coming up could be slight flexing of the posts but I don't recall seeing that on mine even when lifting my big SUV.
Be careful and make sure its secure before using it.
Your tail light is busted😢
Lol, yep. It's fixed now. 🙂
Not really worth 4k
Guess that depends on how much work you do on vehicles and how much you enjoy laying on your back rolling around under them. Its been worth every penny to me. Working on my vehicles is now a pleasure rather than a pain.
Bro, so you have enough money to buy such an expensive jack, BUT you can't afford to buy and replace your taillight on your vehicle? LOL SMH
🤣 Haha, it is fixed now. I'll probably get in trouble for saying this but my wife jackknifed a trailer into the Expedition (twice, once per side) and I just never bothered to fix it. Seriously, a lift is way more important anyway! 😀
@Shane's DIY ah, a lift is not more "important," not when someone is driving behind you and doesn't see a brake light light up when you brake! SMH
The light worked. Just the lens was broken. And I was being sarcastic... 🙂
@@shanesdiy And I wasn't trying to be too "critical", was just pointing out "priorities". Meaning how and what money was spent on compared to where money should have been spent on first. IMO