You are an artisan in your field I have always admired the skills involved in lead work having watched it when I was a apprentice in the sixties on building sites
Terrific attention to detail. No substitute for experience. Refining your technique. I bet there are a few other lead workers watching these shows and improving their work. Good job.
Hi Stuart, I’m a lead worker and find your videos great, it’s very interesting seeing how other people do things! I have used a few of your ideas, please keep the videos coming and I’ve noticed in 1of the comments you said you had a 90min video but you weren’t sure if you should post it, please post it I love seeing them!! I’m always willing to learn and try new ideas, for me that’s the only way to improve 🤙
Yes I totally agree. I was working with another lead worker last week. And he cut a ridge different to me ready for welding. It’s so much better and less welding. And yet I’ve never thought of doing it that way. I need to go over the 90 minute vid to make sure all the parts are there. Thanks for watching my vids.
Steward, Steward, Steward….. Big mistake. You shouldn’t have given your secrets away. Now there’s no need for you anymore. Thanks for the secrets and see’ya later. 😁😂 You could of at least have continued and showed the install. Your videos are never to long. Anyone can just fast forward if they are not interested or just want to move along. Thank you for your lessons.🙏
It’s ok I’ve got plenty more secrets 😳😂. I like showing how I do things. It’s easier this way for me. But it won’t be for everyone. Yes I’m always worried about making them too long. I’ve got one that’s about 90 minutes long. Not sure if I’ll upload or not. But yes I suppose people can always fast forward.
Hi Stuart I would love to see you boxing or dressing over the back 90 corners over the bottle button as even welded corners would need it also do you do chimneys as the rear tray ,I would love to see a pro do it so I can mark my own work of which a rear chimney is the hardest as ever gr8 work
Hi, thank you. I’ve never been taught that But I know it’s very important not to cut into the lead when you’re marking it. Is that the reason you was taught to use small off cuts of lead ?
@@slbleadworks yes it was, I must say I like the idea of using the string line as well, when you work on your own you miss out on other people's tricks and I have learnt a few watching your videos, I'm semi retired plumbing and heating engineer who did a City and Guilds where leadworks was one of many subjects we covered, we weren't encourage to use constant annealing while bossing lead for instance which watching your videos makes it a lot easier, keep up the good work
Love watching all your work great to see extra tips and tricks on how to make it that bit easier for myself Do you have any video's on where to cut and welded an splash lap meeting up to a lay board
thank you for all your videos ! I learn from them to fix my own house roof (in Germany). These yellow lead forming tools that you use, they are quite expensive here in Germany, like 40€ for one of them. The whole set that you have would be like 300€ here. Would it be OK if I use beech wood and build them tools myself ?
Hi thanks for watching my vids I really appreciate it. And I’m glad you’re finding them helpful. Can you not get the tools from eBay or Amazon ?. But yes you can make your own out of beech wood. It’s what the original ones were made out of before all the yellow plastic ones that are around now.
@@slbleadworks Thank you for taking the time to reply ! I found a lead dresser set on ebay by the company roughneck which is at 75€, that sounds reasonable and they ship to germany. The ones I can buy here in germany are super expensive, about 40€ for one of the tools. I also cannot get lead over 1.25mm thickness here. Not as a private person. Even getting the 1.25mm is hard here for a private home owner. But I hope 1.25mm is enough for flashing the edge of my roof towards the sides. Thank you for all your videos ! I wish you a good holiday in France !
@@saschakarschner3118 I’m glad you managed to get your tools sorted. That lead you can get is no good for what you need. It’s needs to be at least 1.80mm in thickness. Which is classed as code 4. And thank you. I really enjoyed my holiday. I really wish I was back there all ready.
Thank you. We use other roofing materials too. But done correctly lead will outlast all other products and is 100% recyclable. It’s also very malleable. Thanks for watching.
@@jimmyschock9395 lead is used on roofs you could say for two main reasons, A for architectural reasons and B it's extremely good at covering awkward shapes, the only other options for areas like step and cover flashings are copper and zinc
is the 45mm measurement the height of your wood roll or do you use this measurement irrespective of the size of the wood roll? Great videos by the way.
No you’ll need a different cut for that. I’m sure I’ve shown this in one of my vids too. But I have so many I can’t remember which one. Thanks for watching.
Thank you. Well I think they are better than GRP. But I like 3 layer felt the best. However I don’t like it when it gets too hot and you have to try and flash them etc without leaving footprints behind. That’s a definite bonus to single ply. To he fair providing they’ve been done right. They look pretty good and much easier for us lead guys to flash.
Hi Stuart, when you fit your wood rolls to the roof where do you take your measurement for the lead bay from? is it at the bottom of the wood roll (widest point) near the top where it is not so wide and then dress the bay in tighter once fitted?
One tip I'd give...buy some folding work horses and bit of board for knocking up, your back must be ruined knocking everything up on your hands and knees
I do have some but I’m not in the habit of using them all the time. But yes my back is ruined. I’m currently off work again with 4 bulging disks 🤦🏻♂️.
@slbleadworks ahh mate sounds agony not sure what's worse...tooth ache or the back I've suffered for a few years with the back and finally getting better but honestly the only thing that's eased it is spending more time vertical. Do you ever boss those bays ? I used to boss the lot but after seeing lads cut and weld it's loads faster I followed suit
@@hplh2 I think I’d rather have tooth ache as one way or another it can be fixed 100%. I usually cut and weld the back of the bays. And always boss the fronts.
@@slbleadworks fair enough , great work mate , looks great and i have picked a few things up of you also , so thank you , I am lead worker myself , I do mostly sandcast lead on churches , gutters, roof sheets downrights etc , anyway thanks pal
You are an artisan in your field I have always admired the skills involved in lead work having watched it when I was a apprentice in the sixties on building sites
Thank you so much and thanks for watching
Saving us wannabe lead men thousands here mate 👍 👌 banger vid .
Thank you I’m glad your getting something from the vids I’m putting out there.
great crafmanship
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Terrific attention to detail. No substitute for experience. Refining your technique. I bet there are a few other lead workers watching these shows and improving their work. Good job.
I guess that would be me 🥸
Thank you. I’ve been asked a lot for this in the comments section so I thought I’d make this video whilst I’ve got the opportunity.
Absolutely awesome explanation , you really are a fantastic craftsman
Thank you. I’m glad you found the video useful. And thanks for watching.
Love watching your videos, great work. I'm starting my lead welding course at masters roofing on 3rd july
Thank you I’m glad your enjoying them. I hope the welding course goes well.
Hi Stuart, I’m a lead worker and find your videos great, it’s very interesting seeing how other people do things!
I have used a few of your ideas, please keep the videos coming and I’ve noticed in 1of the comments you said you had a 90min video but you weren’t sure if you should post it, please post it I love seeing them!!
I’m always willing to learn and try new ideas, for me that’s the only way to improve 🤙
Yes I totally agree. I was working with another lead worker last week. And he cut a ridge different to me ready for welding. It’s so much better and less welding. And yet I’ve never thought of doing it that way.
I need to go over the 90 minute vid to make sure all the parts are there.
Thanks for watching my vids.
Perfect. Thanks for showing.
Your welcome thanks for watching.
Great little cuts them, I'm still on the tricky upside down welds 😂, not anymore though, cheers
I find these cuts the easiest to weld.
Sounds like your welding is coming along.
Clever stuff
Thank you and thanks for watching
Awesome thank you
Thank you. And thanks for watching.
Steward, Steward, Steward…..
Big mistake. You shouldn’t have given your secrets away.
Now there’s no need for you anymore. Thanks for the secrets and see’ya later. 😁😂
You could of at least have continued and showed the install. Your videos are never to long. Anyone can just fast forward if they are not interested or just want to move along. Thank you for your lessons.🙏
It’s ok I’ve got plenty more secrets 😳😂. I like showing how I do things. It’s easier this way for me. But it won’t be for everyone.
Yes I’m always worried about making them too long. I’ve got one that’s about 90 minutes long. Not sure if I’ll upload or not.
But yes I suppose people can always fast forward.
@@slbleadworksjust upload it already. 😠😁. I don’t watch tv or any movies. Contents from TH-cam does me fine. Especially when educational.
Hi Stuart I would love to see you boxing or dressing over the back 90 corners over the bottle button as even welded corners would need it also do you do chimneys as the rear tray ,I would love to see a pro do it so I can mark my own work of which a rear chimney is the hardest
as ever gr8 work
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Thanks Stuart 👍
No worries thanks for watching.
Hi Stuart great work, if you don't mind me saying we were taught to mark the lead for bends with a small off cut of lead
Hi, thank you. I’ve never been taught that But I know it’s very important not to cut into the lead when you’re marking it. Is that the reason you was taught to use small off cuts of lead ?
@@slbleadworks yes it was, I must say I like the idea of using the string line as well, when you work on your own you miss out on other people's tricks and I have learnt a few watching your videos, I'm semi retired plumbing and heating engineer who did a City and Guilds where leadworks was one of many subjects we covered, we weren't encourage to use constant annealing while bossing lead for instance which watching your videos makes it a lot easier, keep up the good work
Spot on👌
Thank you and thanks for watching.
@@slbleadworks was hoping you were going to show how you start the welds off cause that's where a burn a hole🤦
@@snudboy1 sorry mate. I just start by welding down from the top of the roll. And then coming back up from the bottom.
Love watching all your work great to see extra tips and tricks on how to make it that bit easier for myself
Do you have any video's on where to cut and welded an splash lap meeting up to a lay board
Thank you and thanks for watching I really appreciate it.
I’m not sure I have to be honest but it might be somewhere in my content.
thank you for all your videos ! I learn from them to fix my own house roof (in Germany). These yellow lead forming tools that you use, they are quite expensive here in Germany, like 40€ for one of them. The whole set that you have would be like 300€ here. Would it be OK if I use beech wood and build them tools myself ?
Hi thanks for watching my vids I really appreciate it. And I’m glad you’re finding them helpful.
Can you not get the tools from eBay or Amazon ?.
But yes you can make your own out of beech wood. It’s what the original ones were made out of before all the yellow plastic ones that are around now.
@@slbleadworks Thank you for taking the time to reply ! I found a lead dresser set on ebay by the company roughneck which is at 75€, that sounds reasonable and they ship to germany. The ones I can buy here in germany are super expensive, about 40€ for one of the tools. I also cannot get lead over 1.25mm thickness here. Not as a private person. Even getting the 1.25mm is hard here for a private home owner. But I hope 1.25mm is enough for flashing the edge of my roof towards the sides. Thank you for all your videos ! I wish you a good holiday in France !
@@saschakarschner3118 I’m glad you managed to get your tools sorted.
That lead you can get is no good for what you need.
It’s needs to be at least 1.80mm in thickness. Which is classed as code 4.
And thank you. I really enjoyed my holiday. I really wish I was back there all ready.
Use fento kneepads
As a Dutch roofer i feel my knee’s as i watch you
I usually wear trousers with knee pad inserts. But now it’s warmed up I’m in shorts.
I need to get some knee pads sorted.
I find your videos very interesting and the work looks awesome!!! But Im curious why you guys use lead on roofs?
Thank you.
We use other roofing materials too. But done correctly lead will outlast all other products and is 100% recyclable. It’s also very malleable.
Thanks for watching.
@@jimmyschock9395 lead is used on roofs you could say for two main reasons, A for architectural reasons and B it's extremely good at covering awkward shapes, the only other options for areas like step and cover flashings are copper and zinc
@@michaeltrimmer8899 is there no concern for lead contamination in the environment?
@@jimmyschock9395 I'v never heard of anyone with lead poisoning
is the 45mm measurement the height of your wood roll or do you use this measurement irrespective of the size of the wood roll? Great videos by the way.
Thank you.
I use the 45mm measurement as the width of the wood roll.
Can you do video of a box valley
@@bobbanna1782 yes of course thank you for the suggestion. Next time the opportunity arises.
Great video work. Were you using code 4 or 5 on this job please?
Thank you and thanks for watching.
This was code 5.
Another question the copper strip what thicness did you use 1mm ? ive got a swall bay to do .@@slbleadworks
Hello mate do thous cuts still work if back of bay is angled and not vertical cheers
No you’ll need a different cut for that. I’m sure I’ve shown this in one of my vids too. But I have so many I can’t remember which one.
Thanks for watching.
These videos are brilliant mate. What do you think about rubber roofs?
Thank you. Well I think they are better than GRP. But I like 3 layer felt the best.
However I don’t like it when it gets too hot and you have to try and flash them etc without leaving footprints behind. That’s a definite bonus to single ply. To he fair providing they’ve been done right. They look pretty good and much easier for us lead guys to flash.
Hi Stuart, when you fit your wood rolls to the roof where do you take your measurement for the lead bay from? is it at the bottom of the wood roll (widest point) near the top where it is not so wide and then dress the bay in tighter once fitted?
I take my measurement from the widest point but then deduct some off to allow for an easy fit and then dress in.
Thanks for watching.
@@slbleadworks thanks very much for the reply Stuart, i will give it a try 👍
One tip I'd give...buy some folding work horses and bit of board for knocking up, your back must be ruined knocking everything up on your hands and knees
I do have some but I’m not in the habit of using them all the time. But yes my back is ruined. I’m currently off work again with 4 bulging disks 🤦🏻♂️.
@slbleadworks ahh mate sounds agony not sure what's worse...tooth ache or the back I've suffered for a few years with the back and finally getting better but honestly the only thing that's eased it is spending more time vertical. Do you ever boss those bays ? I used to boss the lot but after seeing lads cut and weld it's loads faster I followed suit
@@hplh2 I think I’d rather have tooth ache as one way or another it can be fixed 100%.
I usually cut and weld the back of the bays.
And always boss the fronts.
I am doing a lean to parapet stepped lead gutter to replace a perished zinc one. I can’t find any videos to help me with it!
I think I have one video of a similar detail on here if it helps.
Why don't they use Geotech anymore? Stuart
I think you can still get it. But most people seem to favour grade A building paper as an underlay.
👍👍👌👌
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Whats the maximum size the bays can be
In code 5 you can go up to 1.2 square meters
Including all laps or can you add the laps on
@@danielelliott4796 you can add the laps on. But personally I never do. In code 5 I won’t cut the lead any longer than 2m in 850 wide.
Apologies just saw one
Thanks for watching
why don't you boss your under cloak at top ? no need to cut it you can boss it
Sometimes I do. But for the purpose of this video I didn’t as subscribers wanted to know how I do my cuts.
@@slbleadworks fair enough , great work mate , looks great and i have picked a few things up of you also , so thank you , I am lead worker myself , I do mostly sandcast lead on churches , gutters, roof sheets downrights etc , anyway thanks pal
Lead origami.
Thanks for watching
Thompson Linda Clark Michael Brown Matthew
Thanks for watching
Knee pads boy!!!!!!!
I’m still on the look out. Can you recommend any ?
I always think the same, but they're so uncomfortable, especially in the summer wearing shorts.
@@roygalley1009 I’ll end up with even more dodgy tan lines 😳🤦🏻♂️😂
@@slbleadworks
I bought some from B & M £16 with Velcro straps I find them really good…
Use knee pads .
I have them slid into my work trousers but I need to get better when I’m wearing shorts.
Thanks for watching.