This is one of the most detailed installs of any aftermarket part I have ever seen and details are awesome thank you for your hard work I hate incomplete install videos
@@exhaustinglife I make zr2 content as well. I’ve been trying to figure out if there’s a good option having a snorkel and a cold air intake. Thanks for the quick reply
@@DustinFaddis From the data that I have gathered snorkels are barely sufficient for the stock CFM demand of the motor. I am in the midst of adding a supercharger and as such snorkels are out. I would say talk to the suppliers of the snorkel and see what its maximum airflow is and make sure adding the CAI will not be a waste.
Thanks, I was concerned with the cutting and really didn't want that "cut up" look and the kit really doesn't take away from the flares and finished look.
Another tip you can use for that finished edge on the fender flare, a little heat from a heat gun carefully applied will actually make the plastic look like a finished factory edge. Also apply some Black body seem filler/caulk between the inner and outer body panels to prevent any moisture getting inside between the panels, but make sure to leave the bottom sort of so open so that any moisture buildup between the inner and outer body panel can still drain out. I also applied a small bead between the fender flare and closeout panel.
The rubbing occurred when the tire and wheel centerline passed the lowest part of the body line. From ride height it only took about 3-4 inches of compression (up travel) to start rubbing on the front of Bison rear flares. At full compression it hit the top and was like a card in the spoke of a bicycle wheel on the lower edge. These issues are complicated by having a 0 offset wheel. The issue is less an issue with stock 33 mm offset wheels.
Glad to see this, I have my trim kit, gonna do it and a level/diff drop all together. Curious if some light sanding on that shinny plastic bit would make it blend better...
That's very likely to do the trick ... some desert driving will probably do the same ;) that will happen just as quickly for me. I have the Eibach Pro Lift Kit leveling spring and rung the Peak Suspension diff drop so I can recommend both. I wish I would have filmed more of the diff drop as it seems it was pretty easy and uneventful for me but some have some issue with getting the bolts started. I found loosening all the bolts to the last 3-4 threads and only removing one at a time was extremely helpful in getting everything started and aligned quickly
In the rear maybe ... there is some variation from vehicle to vehicle with a leaf sprung truck. You are correct in taking offset into consideration but tire width is still a factor too. a skinny 33 such as a 10.50 or 11.50 on a stock wheel width and offset will do better than a 12.50 but at 33 inches you will find the tire contacts the from of the fenders at compression and when tucked and articulated it can tear out a ZR2 flare but will rub and scratch the Bison flare and even rip out a few bolts. With all that said, if you are really putting the truck through its paces it will make an undesirable amount of contact at 100% travel but if you are only using 75% of the suspension potential then you can certainly get by.
hell yeah, thanks. Seems easy enuff.
This is one of the most detailed installs of any aftermarket part I have ever seen and details are awesome thank you for your hard work I hate incomplete install videos
Thank you. I feel the same, which is why I made the video series.
More coming work other platforms too.
Nice video. Thanks for the information. It’s good to see more guys putting out zr2 content
Thanks for checking it out. Much more coming soon. Anything you would like to know about or see?
@@exhaustinglife I make zr2 content as well. I’ve been trying to figure out if there’s a good option having a snorkel and a cold air intake. Thanks for the quick reply
@@DustinFaddis From the data that I have gathered snorkels are barely sufficient for the stock CFM demand of the motor. I am in the midst of adding a supercharger and as such snorkels are out. I would say talk to the suppliers of the snorkel and see what its maximum airflow is and make sure adding the CAI will not be a waste.
These are incredibly well done videos. You sir are a true craftsman. Looking to install mine, along with my snorkel this coming weekend.
Thank you and my snorkel video should be dropping in 2 weeks
Good job and looks great 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks, I was concerned with the cutting and really didn't want that "cut up" look and the kit really doesn't take away from the flares and finished look.
nicely done. thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Another tip you can use for that finished edge on the fender flare, a little heat from a heat gun carefully applied will actually make the plastic look like a finished factory edge. Also apply some Black body seem filler/caulk between the inner and outer body panels to prevent any moisture getting inside between the panels, but make sure to leave the bottom sort of so open so that any moisture buildup between the inner and outer body panel can still drain out. I also applied a small bead between the fender flare and closeout panel.
These are good ideas for long term use and ownership however, I am planning on Highmark Fender flares and 35's later this year.
Nice clean cuts, mine not so much. I have lot of room now, maybe a 34 would fit, on the front for sure.
It takes spending the time and having some tools. Did you figure out your exhaust situation?
I’m assuming the rubbing only occurred at full articulation?
The rubbing occurred when the tire and wheel centerline passed the lowest part of the body line. From ride height it only took about 3-4 inches of compression (up travel) to start rubbing on the front of Bison rear flares. At full compression it hit the top and was like a card in the spoke of a bicycle wheel on the lower edge. These issues are complicated by having a 0 offset wheel. The issue is less an issue with stock 33 mm offset wheels.
Glad to see this, I have my trim kit, gonna do it and a level/diff drop all together. Curious if some light sanding on that shinny plastic bit would make it blend better...
That's very likely to do the trick ... some desert driving will probably do the same ;) that will happen just as quickly for me.
I have the Eibach Pro Lift Kit leveling spring and rung the Peak Suspension diff drop so I can recommend both. I wish I would have filmed more of the diff drop as it seems it was pretty easy and uneventful for me but some have some issue with getting the bolts started. I found loosening all the bolts to the last 3-4 threads and only removing one at a time was extremely helpful in getting everything started and aligned quickly
Did you re gear with the 33’s?
With the supercharger, I didn't have the need. I could really push the weight and diameter but 4.10s would have been nice.
Do you think with the stock wheel offset you can get away with trimming only plastic and not metal?
In the rear maybe ... there is some variation from vehicle to vehicle with a leaf sprung truck. You are correct in taking offset into consideration but tire width is still a factor too. a skinny 33 such as a 10.50 or 11.50 on a stock wheel width and offset will do better than a 12.50 but at 33 inches you will find the tire contacts the from of the fenders at compression and when tucked and articulated it can tear out a ZR2 flare but will rub and scratch the Bison flare and even rip out a few bolts.
With all that said, if you are really putting the truck through its paces it will make an undesirable amount of contact at 100% travel but if you are only using 75% of the suspension potential then you can certainly get by.
@@exhaustinglife thank you for the great information