3 Uncommon Ways To Clean In Photoshop + Free Frequency Separation Action
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ค. 2017
- In this tutorial we’ll be covering three unconventional techniques to help you clean your photos in Photoshop. These methods are fantastic for still life photography but can be applied in many other ways as well.
The three techniques we’ll go over are:
1) Dust & scratches: It’s brilliant for quickly cleaning areas of your images which have no texture. It takes 2 seconds and works great.
2) Painting: By applying noise, which matches our original image, we can paint onto a blank layer and correct troublesome areas.
3) Frequency Separation: This one is my favourite. It combines the best qualities of multiple Photoshop tools and, best of all, allows us to be really lazy.
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this tutorial is still relevant in 2023. thanks a lot, Max!
Excellent video showing the differences, thank you.
incredible video, thank you so much for sharing the tips and the actions, you are the best!
Great job Max! I've not used the F/S before for prod work, but definitely inspired to now.
You just changed my life! Thank you sir!
Thank you Max !
This will save me hours. Many thanks
Love it!!
Great tutorial!
Great Tips!
Thanks for the video!
i love ur lessons, they gave me a lot to learn about and change the way i get used to shoot. thank u so much!
Thanks a lot!
This is super amazing mate! Just one trick of Dust & Scratches and I can fix all the casual shoots I did at home. :)
Thank You!
thanks that helps a lot
Great Video!
the ability to be lazy !! i love it
absolutely amazing. By far the most professional methods I've seen taught on youtube.
the threshold is for getting the texture back... For example: set radius value as high as you need to remowe dust and then set threshold to bring back texture.
Hi, great tutorial! Well explained and presented :). I wanted to ask you, how what you deal with the strong, unwanted black lines on the metal for egazmple? Would you paint it?
Thanks! It would depend on the metal. If it were glossy metal with little to no texture, then yes, u would most likely paint ensuring I added enough noise afterward. However, if it were brushed metal or any other metal with texture then painting it out I'm afraid.
Glad you like the video
I've used F/S a couple times and I've see others use Gaussian Blur (compared to Dust & Scratches in this video) when splitting the tones from details. Is there a reason for that?
Back when I first started using the technique I played around with a bunch of different methods. One video I saw used surface blur and I started using that instead of Gaussian. My memory is appalling but, if I remember correctly, I preferred it as it didn't blur the edges as much. In all honesty, I'd have to pop into Photoshop to confirm that but I'm 90% sure that was the reason.
Never thought of using another layer for the noise, gonna try that!
Also, have you tried the Surface Blur instead of Dust And Scratches for uniform areas? I think it helps with bigger smudges or imperfections.
By the way, I was noticing how nice those reflections look on the watch, what diffusion panels do you use? Looking for some new ones, not super happy with my DIY ones.
I have tried using Surface Blur, both work but I find using a combo of the three techniques mentioned usually does it for me.
I use a few different diffusion panels; trace/diffusion gel (Lee 129), Opal Acrylic, and on occasion something called Depron, it's model airplane material. I don't use that too often though.
Square Mountain Thanks a lot, I'll check them out!
I'd recommend mixed brush when painting before just a brush and color
Hi Marius. I'm guessing you mean the Mixer Brush? I've experimented with it but must admit I don't get on with it as much as simply painting. I know some retouchers swear by it but, as of yet, I prefer just painting. I do go to it every now and again though.
Amazing! You earned a sub from me :)
Thank you so much for this great video and your very generous actions download. Does the download have both the 8 and the 16 bit versions.
Thanks. Pretty sure it has both but let me know if not
There are two and both say 8bit.@@maxbridge8921
@@MNA7movie that's odd. There should be both versions. What does it show once installed in Photoshop?
Square Mountain it shows two sets. As if there is a duplicate. First tab, FS, 2nd tab, FS (8-bit), and then the strips repeat one more time each. Unless the one that just says FS is the 16. And why are there two of them, if you don’t mind me asking? Is it a windows and Mac thing. Either way, thank you again. You’re literally saving hours and hours for me. :)
@@MNA7movie the "FS" one is the 16 bit version. As to why there are 4, if I've understood you correctly, I'm not sure. I'll have to test it to see. Glad it's helping you!
Can you please show how you shot this photograph of the watch as a tutorial?
I wasn't planning on doing another watch tutorial for a while, I've done a few already and thought it best to move onto different objects. Check out this video - th-cam.com/video/JkHkQZcz_Bk/w-d-xo.html - the concept is the same but I used more lights when creating this image. I also shot each watch seperately and then combined them in PS.
does the action also work for portrait retouching with high frequency seperation?
Yeah, same technique just slightly different way I apply it for portraits Vs products. You need to have more of a light touch for portraits
@@maxbridge8921 ok thanks so much! the content is top notch and proffesional please do keep it coming!
hi Square Mountain nice work I just wanted to know the lense and camera you used for that photo shoot thanks
Thanks. I think it was a Nikon d810 and the sigma 150mm OS. I now shoot with Sony and often use the 90mm macro, 150mm+ is nicer to work with for this sort of stuff though. Hope that helps
@@maxbridge8921 thanks alot for that do you also thinks or have a result of a nice macro shoot with the 90mm or 150 mm ?? iam still thinking about the one I shoul buy if I need to do watches photography thanks
@@omartbienaime543 if you take a look at my website, most images are shot with either a 90mm, 150mm or 55mm. If you're primarily shooting jewellery then the longer the better, get the 150mm. If you're shooting a variety of things then a 90/100 macro is always good. Totally depends what you're shooting.
@@maxbridge8921 thanks yes jewellery i would like to do but your talking about the sigma yes ??
@@omartbienaime543 yes I was but it depends what system you use. I had to sell the sigma when I moved to Sony, didn't really want to use adaptors
By the way, for the first tip, you said lower opacity to Aaron d 60%. I think you meant to say the flow.
I only say that because the flow is at 60 in the video. I actually don't know if I am right.
Yeah, you're right, I meant flow.