JUST WOW! I am 100% Disabled Vet. and I got a 4896 CNC Router to work from home when I'm not down because of surgeries. I was 3D printing before I got wounded and KNEW the two could integrate BUT this video gave me TONS of ideas on printing holding jigs, tool jigs, storage and so on. Really appreciate the help. Video felt like you came into my shop and pointed out what I could do better. Thanks for that!
I'm woodworker, tinkerer, farmer. But, SO many of these items in here show me WHAT can be accomplished with a 3d printer for us around here and out and about. And thanks for bringing in someone's ideas from another shop, that was FANTASTIC!!! You really helped in getting me closer and closer to falling off the fence and landing on the 3d printer side. Thanks, Rick
Didn't know this many people were interested in CNC Machine shops! I have a machine shop myself and I just discovered this channel. Got a little bigger machines though.. 20ft table size double column gantry, Mazak integrex 670 lathe, lots of cool stuff. Mostly aerospace work
I'm designing a new classroom for my high school small engine class. 3D printing a scale model of all the tools and equipment could be a game changer for the planning. Great idea!
Thanks for sharing, John. Lots of useful and functional 3D prints out there. The real paradox is that most of them tend to reveal themselves after you obtain the 3D printer - not before. I've been on the practical 3D printing train for a while and I always tell folks if you're on the fence, take the plunge!
A comment-er above suggested sending someone who's on the fence to thier local library. Many now have 3D printers for small or no cost to print an object OR a local Vo-Tech.
I recently bought a printer solely to make useful tools and parts. Many handy items do not require a perfect or even a particularly good print so after three benchys I switched to printing storage enhancements, funnels (specialty funnels are surprisingly useful) and so forth. Phone/device holders and parts are trivially cheap to print as are RAM-style mounting ball attachments with various bases.
I 3D printed a mini mill CNC conversion with great success. My intention was originally to 3d print the conversion, then mill the parts out of aluminum. But it works so well I see no reason to waste my time or the material to remake the parts. I could have made them on my manual machines, but that would have taken up a lot of my limited shop time. A 3d printer is like an employee. You give it an action plan and it gets to work. It doesn't need sleep or breaks. I have 3 printers to split up the work load for faster results with multiple parts, and am working on building a 4th that will handle larger parts. Great video guys!
I have had a 3d printer for about 9 years now. Recently I have picked up my first Lathe and CNC mill. With the plan to start getting into manufacturing and job shop work. Primarily aimed at providing jobs for people that are disabled at varying degrees. I do a lot of work in CAD and other 3d programs. So often what I am designing already has a complete 3d model of the parts and assembly. Its so unbelievably easy these days to then take that and make fixtures and tooling. Most recently I made a production printing press for a product that has 7 different colors as part of the design. If I had made these in a more traditional method, by hand. The materials cost and time would of put it vastly outside the budget. But by recycling materials on hand, and printing the mechanisms. With about an hour and a half of design time. I had a mostly complete solution that just needed to be printed. So I could focus on other tasks at hand between swapping prints. Overall cost in material 40$. I should add pretty much everything i am using at this point is easily obtainable by anyone. The printers are nothing special. They aren't even anything super high end. Yes you need to know how to get the most out of the printer. But everything has a learning curve. Its just that most of the information in this space is freely accessible, and not behind a pay wall. So sit down and learn, or spend some time helping people and learning at a maker space or school. So you can bring what you have in your head, into the physical world.
I’ve followed John for a long time and I’ve seen his business grow from his apartment to a stand-alone shop.However, his business has come a very long way and his TH-cam channel has contributed to his success to an extent. I mean if this dude wasn’t putting the time and effort into content just think of what would be going on behind closed doors. He’s providing the public with information that most shops would have to pay for or rely on experience from employees as far as his CAM strategies and proven cut goes. Although hopefully he won’t get as ambiguous as titan lmao
@@qqqqqqqq1407 I think John is doing this in his spare time, outside of shop hours, and I really appreciate he is sharing this with us. He is showing stuff done over the years. The model of the shop was done before moving machines to a new location. Taking some time to do things like this will save you tons of hours later on. If you don't understand why, this is not a youtube channel for you ...
Timing couldn't have been any better!. Got the notification while unpacking my new 3D-printer for the machining business I just started this year. Have been absolutely binging through all the content you and John Grimsmo put out. Can't thank you guys enough for all the sharing you do.
What a fantastic episode! John you started out talking so fast, then I realized you had so much to say about so many ideas on so many machines. Congrats on the new machines coming by the way. You convinced me to invest in a 3D printer, although I may have to have my wife call you so you can use your enthusiasm to convince her it’s a good idea!
The building model is a great idea. They used to make paper or styrofoam models just like that, but 3d printing them yourself is faster and more customized. Kinda makes me want one to plan out our new house or my new shop.
I loved his door swing and clean out model as well. So clever. And Lego Scale! That's brilliant so I don't have to PRINT a chop saw just build a low resolution lego version and move around the box. I broke my back in the Air Force so moving 3D print/legos is a lot easier on my spine. 😆
I'm really interested in checking out that 3d printing power point. It looks like it's talked about in your August 2020 blog but I can't seem to find the attachment.
At the shop i worked at with a visual touch off machine like yours we just set the length of those manual probes to the center of the tip. Then all the machines that used it had a global WCS shift.
We bought a Prusa recently. 7 week wait and I'm climbing the walls waiting to start playing with it. First step is the sahuler bins and tool tag holders :)
Be aware there is a learning curve if you haven't used or owned a 3D printer before. But there is also a strong community support, and plenty of people will be willing to assist and troubleshoot. Only going to give you one advice, since I am sure you'll get plenty from everyone else. Whatever brand and material you decided to start with, say PETG from Amazon in White. Stick with that same material until you are comfortable will all your settings.....and keep your material dry. Do not assume it comes dry even knowing its in a sealed bag. And buy a food dryer ($30 Amazon) to dry the material properly before using. Ok that was three tips, but oh well. Cheers.
That company Desktop Metal makes a carbon fiber printer called Fiber. Uses a small strand of pre preg CF with some type of normal printing medium. Supposed to be harder/stronger than steel and great for Tooling. Might be worth a look, but its $3700 a year for the printer. I’ve went down a lot of rabbit holes since I started a Aerospace Tooling class. 😂
Wow John! Absolutely awesome content. I've been waiting for this video for a long time! Valuable information that will help every shop owner or hobbyist!
Thanks for sharing, 3D printing stuff for the shop is great. I love the S-tools system, we used a blackboard but beginning this year I designed my own S-tools label after I had seen yours. This video triggered me to get started printing/lasercutting all components in our shop. We will be moving to a new location somewhere next year and this seems a very good thing to do.
Have you tried printing in TPU, used it for seals, worked pretty nice. I use mine most for assembly tools and jigs. And fridge magnets in all shapes, magnets are fully enclosed, i pause the print at a certain hight and insert the magnets, then resume printing over them.
For the little magnetic labels, you can have the number be proud of the surface and use an M600 command in your gcode to do a filament change at the first layer of the number, and throw in an equivalent filament of a different color, giving you a number that is easy to read without the additional step and cost of pouring silicone. The number will be proud of the surface, so maybe you wanted it flush, but I figured I'd throw it out there as another method to accomplish the same thing. You could also go crazy with Prusa's MMU or the mosaic palette system to do multiple color/material printing in the same level, but that's more cost and more fiddling, whereas the M600 filament change is quick and free (assuming your printer firmware is relatively recent and supports it).
Or cheap and easy version is to fill the lettering with the color of your choice nail polish. Let it cure and it is pretty much coolant proof, have had these on machines button labels etc (laser cut sheet metal with stamped letters filled with color)
Great compilation of random items :) Next time I do some shop re arrangement I'm definitely going to copy your shop layout model! See you guys in part 2 eventually ;)
Which one you're using for printing your models??? I think out of Prusa and Lolzbot Sidewinder X1 and maximum creality are also very nice products for 3d Printing!!!!
I'm a new ST20Y owner as well and loving the machine. There are some pretty cool ideas here. Would anyone happen to have a link to the model for the rail covers? I sure would like to print up some up for my machine.
Great video like always. I have a cr10s printer and a used pcnc 100 so I printed a box for the e-stop and start switch so I don’t need to keep reaching over the flood coolant 😉
Not having a 3-D printer, I tend to machine these sorts of things from "billet" plastic. Probably not any faster, certainly not cheaper (once the cost of the printer is amortized), and not as versatile.
The Haimer preload-ring will only work with an optical tool pre-setter. The spring tension in a typical mechanical pre-setter will further compress the Haimer tip and the measurement will still be inaccurate. I unfortunately don't have a Speroni :(
Interesting ideas. Given you have "access to" a machine shop, what makes you choose 3D printing something rather than machining it from Delrin? Despite 3D printing being insanely slow, is that still faster?
I can not speak for NYC CNC, but I can think of several reasons. #1 CAM workflow for 3D-printing is very simple compared to a CNC machine, so you may save a bunch of man hours. #2 Machine time on a CNC machine is likely more expensive than on a 3D-printer, as the printer is less of an investment, and tool wear is minimal. #3 Depending on the part in question you may save considerable amount of man hours with a 3D-printer, even if the print it self is slow, as they don't require much monitoring or interaction while making the part. This is particularly true if the part in question would require multiple setups for machining. That said, I do think several of the parts in this video could just as well have been done on a CNC, Laser-cutter or even old-school by hand from wood or sheet-goods. The way covers would be a good example where other methods could have worked just as well. Where 3D-printing tends to shine is where you have relatively high complexity and moderate size and tolerances.
@@2testtest2 I figured there'd be good reasons. I have no experience of CAM other than a little bit of Sketchup exported to Cura, and I imagine there are way more things to think about with reductive machining in terms of tool paths etc. Good point also about work time vs elapsed time - on the assumption they have plenty to get on with while waiting for 3D prints, they're effectively instant and so there's no real cost in waiting for them.
When are you going to do a Datron video? You've had it for months and we haven't seen it. It's Tormach or Haas not allowing you to show it since they're sponsors?
I have robot at work which is used to move small cups. I was seriously pissed off to the manufacturer when I ordered fingers for their tooling. They were dimensionally all over the place and made by hand. Now I 3d print spares for that. They're Alsop perfect for us mechanics who need "bullets" to keep sealing rings intact when inserting sharp edges shafts through bushing and seals. I've made multiple for packaging machines. One of my favorites is simple ratchet "socket" that I use for handing vacuum cup screws on various machines. Someone always used improper tools to change cups and scratched suction screws, which could in tight spots mean marks on all products handled. I also make markings similar to the end of the video, but I don't bother to use silicone or something like that. I just simply print ie. black background and then have layer/color change and use something like orange to make marking really visible. Also people handle at my workplace with multiple models of canisters. One worker asked me that if I could make some tool to get better grip. Lady was really, really happy for that tool and now I've done multiple models and I'm still astonished how many "could you make something similar to model X, but that would work with this" requests. But I don't mind, I'm glad that I can help if someone struggles daily with something.
Thingaverse usually isnt good for models to base and design off of due to the nature of stls, but grabcad is incredibably usefull with their step files.
while STLs do limit your ability to import into a cad program, I have used this to get basic building blocks to slam together to determine if the idea is worth spending the time to sketch from scratch in cad. Tinkercad.com is a great tool to do basic grab and slam of STLs from thingiverse.
0:42 After your remark about the 1::32 lego miniature scale I ran home to check my legos. Lego minifigs are actually scale 1::45 but they are too wide for that scale, there a 1::32 is more realistic. Did you also have the minifigs walk around machines to check for accessibility during maintenance?
Having built 1/24 models of a house I was designing and building, I mounted a tiny video camera at scale-eye-level so I could "tour" the model (or models, as we made changes based on what the camera "saw") from inside. You need to determine the location of the POV of the camera (it may be anywhere along the axis of the lens) if you want to gimbal the camera to look up (at a ceiling) or down (as from a balcony).
13:18 buy collets that designed high speed drilling and its so tight it only let coolant thru drill. and normal collet has change broke drill in first hole if it hair angled. it happens
Thank you for all your videos! have learned tons!. I would like to print the haimer pre setter but the file is 0kbs on the google drive. Does anyone happen to have it? THanks
Well I normally use the back on a broken end mill in a callet chuck holder on the leath. ( metric eks. T4 M5 G0 Z10. X2. Z2. G1 Z0. 2 F150 M0 Z2. G0 Z10. X150. Z150. T2 M3 S1200) Always works perfectly for me and I have one hand to close the chuck and the other one to pull and hold the stuck out to the stop/ back of the broken end mill well the chuck is closing
Would love to have bought a prusa, yet the conversion between EUR and AUD makes it $1500 buy. Sigh, instead have a rip off that is out of action at the moment.
People could save a lot of time if Haas offered an RFID system. Everyone is 3d printing these yellow card und holders for said cards while RFID tags for cnc tools are like 10 bucks.
3D printing is a better route when you're rapid prototyping a design because A) you have the ability to go through multiple iterations testing fit and tolerance quickly B) the cost in plastic filament is much lower than raw stock that you remove material from C) sometimes the design just doesn't need a machined part to operate (ex. the toolsetter cover that john showed off, absolutely 0 reason to machine that from a more expensive material when a 3D print will do just fine) D) the time cost is not worth traditional machining all the time, why sideline a mill or lathe producing a part to organize or help setting something when a cheaper 3D printer could do that job while your costly machines can make parts for customers at the same time
Thousands of dollars for a great 3D printer. Lmao to make tags and little boxes that cost pennies. 3D printers are cool and there can be great uses for them but if u have to look very hard to find a use for them then u really shouldn’t get one
I personally created one of those items and was involved with development of another, John was NOT. He should be ashamed not to have given credit as he promised. This is not the first time either. John, you have poor ethics.
Wow. Is it possible for you to form a single coherent sentence _without_ requiring nauseating jump cuts every three words, looking like a cheap Max Headroom parody in the process??
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
JUST WOW! I am 100% Disabled Vet. and I got a 4896 CNC Router to work from home when I'm not down because of surgeries. I was 3D printing before I got wounded and KNEW the two could integrate BUT this video gave me TONS of ideas on printing holding jigs, tool jigs, storage and so on. Really appreciate the help. Video felt like you came into my shop and pointed out what I could do better. Thanks for that!
I'm woodworker, tinkerer, farmer. But, SO many of these items in here show me WHAT can be accomplished with a 3d printer for us around here and out and about. And thanks for bringing in someone's ideas from another shop, that was FANTASTIC!!! You really helped in getting me closer and closer to falling off the fence and landing on the 3d printer side. Thanks, Rick
Didn't know this many people were interested in CNC Machine shops! I have a machine shop myself and I just discovered this channel. Got a little bigger machines though.. 20ft table size double column gantry, Mazak integrex 670 lathe, lots of cool stuff. Mostly aerospace work
I'm designing a new classroom for my high school small engine class. 3D printing a scale model of all the tools and equipment could be a game changer for the planning. Great idea!
Thanks for sharing, John. Lots of useful and functional 3D prints out there. The real paradox is that most of them tend to reveal themselves after you obtain the 3D printer - not before. I've been on the practical 3D printing train for a while and I always tell folks if you're on the fence, take the plunge!
A comment-er above suggested sending someone who's on the fence to thier local library. Many now have 3D printers for small or no cost to print an object OR a local Vo-Tech.
I recently bought a printer solely to make useful tools and parts. Many handy items do not require a perfect or even a particularly good print so after three benchys I switched to printing storage enhancements, funnels (specialty funnels are surprisingly useful) and so forth. Phone/device holders and parts are trivially cheap to print as are RAM-style mounting ball attachments with various bases.
I 3D printed a mini mill CNC conversion with great success. My intention was originally to 3d print the conversion, then mill the parts out of aluminum. But it works so well I see no reason to waste my time or the material to remake the parts. I could have made them on my manual machines, but that would have taken up a lot of my limited shop time. A 3d printer is like an employee. You give it an action plan and it gets to work. It doesn't need sleep or breaks. I have 3 printers to split up the work load for faster results with multiple parts, and am working on building a 4th that will handle larger parts.
Great video guys!
19:02 Wow, just look at that nice subtle off white colouring. Raised lettering too. This guy's a champ.
Oh my God! It even has a watermark.
I have had a 3d printer for about 9 years now. Recently I have picked up my first Lathe and CNC mill. With the plan to start getting into manufacturing and job shop work. Primarily aimed at providing jobs for people that are disabled at varying degrees. I do a lot of work in CAD and other 3d programs. So often what I am designing already has a complete 3d model of the parts and assembly. Its so unbelievably easy these days to then take that and make fixtures and tooling.
Most recently I made a production printing press for a product that has 7 different colors as part of the design. If I had made these in a more traditional method, by hand. The materials cost and time would of put it vastly outside the budget. But by recycling materials on hand, and printing the mechanisms. With about an hour and a half of design time. I had a mostly complete solution that just needed to be printed. So I could focus on other tasks at hand between swapping prints. Overall cost in material 40$.
I should add pretty much everything i am using at this point is easily obtainable by anyone. The printers are nothing special. They aren't even anything super high end. Yes you need to know how to get the most out of the printer. But everything has a learning curve. Its just that most of the information in this space is freely accessible, and not behind a pay wall. So sit down and learn, or spend some time helping people and learning at a maker space or school. So you can bring what you have in your head, into the physical world.
This dude started in his apartment. I can't believe how far this business has come. Absolutely blown away ;-)
no machine is running, kinda crazy he has the time to model his shop in 1/32nd scale. Should be busy making parts.
@@qqqqqqqq1407 Dude, go find another channel to leave your petty comments.
@@jaypie0864 duuuuuuuuuude
I’ve followed John for a long time and I’ve seen his business grow from his apartment to a stand-alone shop.However, his business has come a very long way and his TH-cam channel has contributed to his success to an extent. I mean if this dude wasn’t putting the time and effort into content just think of what would be going on behind closed doors. He’s providing the public with information that most shops would have to pay for or rely on experience from employees as far as his CAM strategies and proven cut goes. Although hopefully he won’t get as ambiguous as titan lmao
@@qqqqqqqq1407 I think John is doing this in his spare time, outside of shop hours, and I really appreciate he is sharing this with us.
He is showing stuff done over the years. The model of the shop was done before moving machines to a new location. Taking some time to do things like this will save you tons of hours later on. If you don't understand why, this is not a youtube channel for you ...
Timing couldn't have been any better!. Got the notification while unpacking my new 3D-printer for the machining business I just started this year. Have been absolutely binging through all the content you and John Grimsmo put out. Can't thank you guys enough for all the sharing you do.
What a fantastic episode! John you started out talking so fast, then I realized you had so much to say about so many ideas on so many machines. Congrats on the new machines coming by the way. You convinced me to invest in a 3D printer, although I may have to have my wife call you so you can use your enthusiasm to convince her it’s a good idea!
I have two and have already printed parts for things around the house that saved us tons of money as well as designed things for the garden.
The Haimer preload-ring is awesome. Also, Mr. Speroni tells me the ruby has a bit of dirt on it ;-)
The building model is a great idea. They used to make paper or styrofoam models just like that, but 3d printing them yourself is faster and more customized. Kinda makes me want one to plan out our new house or my new shop.
Here's a quick rundown of all of the models shown here:
(I only included parts that had a specified title and explicit "start time.")
00:36 - CNC Shop Model
1:21 - Bushing Thingy
2:26 - Linear Rail Covers
3:04 - Parts Catcher Door Extender
3:09 - Capto Block
3:41 - Tool Tag Organizer
4:28 - Tool Presetter Cover
5:02 - Haimer Tip Compressor
6:03 - Microscope Tool Stand
7:41 - Workholding Cavity Plugs
8:24 - Tool Backers/Stabilizers
8:37 - Plugs to Color Code Fixture Positions
9:02 - Air Hose Handle
9:11 - Schaller Bins
9:45 - Magnetic Assembly Jig
10:15 - Machining Fixture
10:31 - Assembly Fixture
10:32 - Inspection Fixture
10:34 - "Around the Shop" Tools
10:36 - Organization Fixture
10:38 - Safety Tools
11:31 - Airbearing
12:19 - 1-2-3 Block Cover
13:02 - Collet Coolant Block
13:45 - Raw Stock Fixture
14:25 - Spindle Backstop
15:44 - Lathe Tool Offset Labeling
16:38 - Tool Rack
16:55 - Power Feed Adapter
17:14 - Drill Guides
17:57 - Press Tooling
18:18 - Moulding
18:43 - Signs
19:02 - Business Cards
Well, aren't you a helpful guy. Thanks a ton, man.
Even after all this time, the mini shop model is still my favorite. That sort of stuff is just so handing in planning out your building and equipment.
I loved his door swing and clean out model as well. So clever. And Lego Scale! That's brilliant so I don't have to PRINT a chop saw just build a low resolution lego version and move around the box. I broke my back in the Air Force so moving 3D print/legos is a lot easier on my spine. 😆
I'm really interested in checking out that 3d printing power point. It looks like it's talked about in your August 2020 blog but I can't seem to find the attachment.
Custom tools is one of my favorite uses for a 3D printer. I'd like to see someone machine a part held with 3D printed soft jaws.
East/West did - th-cam.com/video/ibQHwQe49-M/w-d-xo.html - Jump to 2:07
Oh man i was just thinking the other day about using drills in ER collets in the lathes. I know what im printing tomorrow!!
At the shop i worked at with a visual touch off machine like yours we just set the length of those manual probes to the center of the tip. Then all the machines that used it had a global WCS shift.
I just got a 3D printer and was thinking about what I could make to help with things around that shop. Great timing for this vid!!
We bought a Prusa recently. 7 week wait and I'm climbing the walls waiting to start playing with it. First step is the sahuler bins and tool tag holders :)
Mine just shipped yesterday.I ordered it May 24th
Be aware there is a learning curve if you haven't used or owned a 3D printer before. But there is also a strong community support, and plenty of people will be willing to assist and troubleshoot.
Only going to give you one advice, since I am sure you'll get plenty from everyone else.
Whatever brand and material you decided to start with, say PETG from Amazon in White. Stick with that same material until you are comfortable will all your settings.....and keep your material dry. Do not assume it comes dry even knowing its in a sealed bag. And buy a food dryer ($30 Amazon) to dry the material properly before using.
Ok that was three tips, but oh well.
Cheers.
That company Desktop Metal makes a carbon fiber printer called Fiber. Uses a small strand of pre preg CF with some type of normal printing medium. Supposed to be harder/stronger than steel and great for Tooling. Might be worth a look, but its $3700 a year for the printer.
I’ve went down a lot of rabbit holes since I started a Aerospace Tooling class. 😂
Wow John! Absolutely awesome content. I've been waiting for this video for a long time! Valuable information that will help every shop owner or hobbyist!
Cool video! It's so handy to be able to quickly draw something up and let it print while you do other things.
WOW, you have come a long way in your shop. I remember the old building and first videos...
Really useful for CMM work-holding too.
Hexagon employee approved
Thanks for sharing, 3D printing stuff for the shop is great.
I love the S-tools system, we used a blackboard but beginning this year I designed my own S-tools label after I had seen yours.
This video triggered me to get started printing/lasercutting all components in our shop. We will be moving to a new location somewhere next year and this seems a very good thing to do.
Have you tried printing in TPU, used it for seals, worked pretty nice. I use mine most for assembly tools and jigs. And fridge magnets in all shapes, magnets are fully enclosed, i pause the print at a certain hight and insert the magnets, then resume printing over them.
For the little magnetic labels, you can have the number be proud of the surface and use an M600 command in your gcode to do a filament change at the first layer of the number, and throw in an equivalent filament of a different color, giving you a number that is easy to read without the additional step and cost of pouring silicone. The number will be proud of the surface, so maybe you wanted it flush, but I figured I'd throw it out there as another method to accomplish the same thing. You could also go crazy with Prusa's MMU or the mosaic palette system to do multiple color/material printing in the same level, but that's more cost and more fiddling, whereas the M600 filament change is quick and free (assuming your printer firmware is relatively recent and supports it).
That's a really good idea. I'll maybe add a dual color version on the TV page!
Or cheap and easy version is to fill the lettering with the color of your choice nail polish. Let it cure and it is pretty much coolant proof, have had these on machines button labels etc (laser cut sheet metal with stamped letters filled with color)
Great compilation of random items :) Next time I do some shop re arrangement I'm definitely going to copy your shop layout model! See you guys in part 2 eventually ;)
be prepared to have your youtube channel blow up, in a good way.
@@anathaetownsend1894 Alright. I'll be waiting with my safety goggles on! :)
Your timing is perfect. My printer arrived yesterday.
Thanks,
John
Which one you're using for printing your models??? I think out of Prusa and Lolzbot Sidewinder X1 and maximum creality are also very nice products for 3d Printing!!!!
Thanks for sharing always good to have the extra knowledge
Too. Many. Ideas. ...mindblow!
Amazing!
just had the idea to print a cover for our presetter instead of using a dirty rag!
Awesome stuff. I definitely have some ideas now.
I'm a new ST20Y owner as well and loving the machine. There are some pretty cool ideas here. Would anyone happen to have a link to the model for the rail covers? I sure would like to print up some up for my machine.
Great video like always. I have a cr10s printer and a used pcnc 100 so I printed a box for the e-stop and start switch so I don’t need to keep reaching over the flood coolant 😉
Not having a 3-D printer, I tend to machine these sorts of things from "billet" plastic. Probably not any faster, certainly not cheaper (once the cost of the printer is amortized), and not as versatile.
The Haimer preload-ring will only work with an optical tool pre-setter. The spring tension in a typical mechanical pre-setter will further compress the Haimer tip and the measurement will still be inaccurate. I unfortunately don't have a Speroni :(
You can still adjust the haimer to zero with the presetter applied to comp for that, no?
Excellent information! Thanks for sharing.
John
Interesting ideas. Given you have "access to" a machine shop, what makes you choose 3D printing something rather than machining it from Delrin? Despite 3D printing being insanely slow, is that still faster?
I can not speak for NYC CNC, but I can think of several reasons.
#1 CAM workflow for 3D-printing is very simple compared to a CNC machine, so you may save a bunch of man hours.
#2 Machine time on a CNC machine is likely more expensive than on a 3D-printer, as the printer is less of an investment, and tool wear is minimal.
#3 Depending on the part in question you may save considerable amount of man hours with a 3D-printer, even if the print it self is slow, as they don't require much monitoring or interaction while making the part. This is particularly true if the part in question would require multiple setups for machining.
That said, I do think several of the parts in this video could just as well have been done on a CNC, Laser-cutter or even old-school by hand from wood or sheet-goods. The way covers would be a good example where other methods could have worked just as well. Where 3D-printing tends to shine is where you have relatively high complexity and moderate size and tolerances.
@@2testtest2 I figured there'd be good reasons. I have no experience of CAM other than a little bit of Sketchup exported to Cura, and I imagine there are way more things to think about with reductive machining in terms of tool paths etc. Good point also about work time vs elapsed time - on the assumption they have plenty to get on with while waiting for 3D prints, they're effectively instant and so there's no real cost in waiting for them.
Wow I thought you didn’t like us made haas - you obviously do. Great work
What happened to all the 3d print models? I am looking for that Haimer tip compressor.
Outfreakingstanding John! Thanks for sharing!
ALL Excellent.
realy cool
Great content! Unfortunately the Downloads are gone from your homepage, did you upload them elsewhere?
When are you going to do a Datron video? You've had it for months and we haven't seen it. It's Tormach or Haas not allowing you to show it since they're sponsors?
Awesome John. I need to get my ender 3 up and running again.
I have robot at work which is used to move small cups. I was seriously pissed off to the manufacturer when I ordered fingers for their tooling. They were dimensionally all over the place and made by hand. Now I 3d print spares for that. They're Alsop perfect for us mechanics who need "bullets" to keep sealing rings intact when inserting sharp edges shafts through bushing and seals. I've made multiple for packaging machines. One of my favorites is simple ratchet "socket" that I use for handing vacuum cup screws on various machines. Someone always used improper tools to change cups and scratched suction screws, which could in tight spots mean marks on all products handled. I also make markings similar to the end of the video, but I don't bother to use silicone or something like that. I just simply print ie. black background and then have layer/color change and use something like orange to make marking really visible. Also people handle at my workplace with multiple models of canisters. One worker asked me that if I could make some tool to get better grip. Lady was really, really happy for that tool and now I've done multiple models and I'm still astonished how many "could you make something similar to model X, but that would work with this" requests. But I don't mind, I'm glad that I can help if someone struggles daily with something.
Thingaverse usually isnt good for models to base and design off of due to the nature of stls, but grabcad is incredibably usefull with their step files.
while STLs do limit your ability to import into a cad program, I have used this to get basic building blocks to slam together to determine if the idea is worth spending the time to sketch from scratch in cad. Tinkercad.com is a great tool to do basic grab and slam of STLs from thingiverse.
Nice job John 👍🏼
This video is interesting bcz some ideas on creating something is more useful for designers also to increase productivity...
The part with Jan was pretty good.
Thank you! :)
I'm sold. Off to buy a 3D printer now 😁
Very awesome seeing 3d printing in action! Great job guys!
That is such a good idea!!!
0:42 After your remark about the 1::32 lego miniature scale I ran home to check my legos. Lego minifigs are actually scale 1::45 but they are too wide for that scale, there a 1::32 is more realistic.
Did you also have the minifigs walk around machines to check for accessibility during maintenance?
Having built 1/24 models of a house I was designing and building, I mounted a tiny video camera at scale-eye-level so I could "tour" the model (or models, as we made changes based on what the camera "saw") from inside. You need to determine the location of the POV of the camera (it may be anywhere along the axis of the lens) if you want to gimbal the camera to look up (at a ceiling) or down (as from a balcony).
brickarchitect.com/scale/
It looks indeed that the scale is not so obvious. 1:32 is mentioned in the comments of the linked article as well.
Thanks for being the inspiration that you are 👍
Thank you for sharing this very interesting vid. What a lot of good work.
Will the full presentation "3d printing in the machine shop" be share on chip rag newsletter in September?
Awesome! Wasn't that also the prescious plastic workshop?
Nice Machines and Nice parts
we 3d printed a parts ejector for our sub spindle in a ds30y
Any idea on a good filament that we can use to print parts that wont degrade from machining coolant?
Awesome
13:18 buy collets that designed high speed drilling and its so tight it only let coolant thru drill. and normal collet has change broke drill in first hole if it hair angled. it happens
Thank you for all your videos! have learned tons!. I would like to print the haimer pre setter but the file is 0kbs on the google drive. Does anyone happen to have it?
THanks
John could you make available your model for the haimer tip preloader please?
@Julie SMW i would really love to print the preloader. unfortunetly the file for it on the google drive is 0kbs. does anyone have the file?
Thanks!
@@allant5825 File is fixed!
How did you get the HAAS and tormachs to fill when printing. When I throw them into my print software it only prints the inside and not the outside.
Great video!
More useful 3D prints
Well I normally use the back on a broken end mill in a callet chuck holder on the leath.
( metric eks. T4 M5
G0 Z10.
X2.
Z2.
G1 Z0. 2 F150
M0
Z2.
G0 Z10.
X150. Z150.
T2 M3 S1200)
Always works perfectly for me and I have one hand to close the chuck and the other one to pull and hold the stuck out to the stop/ back of the broken end mill well the chuck is closing
which video microscope did you buy, or recommend ? thx for your interesting videos
@Julie SMW thx
cool
John, Where can I find said shop microscope for $110.00 ?
As an F1 fan, i wish you had bought all the stuff you printed off Haas and saved Gunther 😂
What are you adding to the shop now? And for those that care, I also talk with my hands, gets my point across. Been doing it all my life. I'm 63. 🙃🙃🙃
Is these 3D files not accessible anymore? Or do I need to be a Pro member of your site before I can access these?
Can we get the location for Air Gun Holder file please?
Libraries often have 3D printers if you want to get started without having to sink cash immediately
Excellent point. I'll recommend that to people who ask about 3D printing. Thanks!
All my recent 3d prints are called "holder" or "support" its to good and fast
Am I the only one who noticed the 420 label on the label maker?
Would love to have bought a prusa, yet the conversion between EUR and AUD makes it $1500 buy. Sigh, instead have a rip off that is out of action at the moment.
That prusa is more rigid than those haas machines...lol
You know what..
I've just decided yer shop needs a Robot like You.
Only Smarter.
So.... I leave the details to you,.. Sir.
Honey I shrunk the shop
People could save a lot of time if Haas offered an RFID system. Everyone is 3d printing these yellow card und holders for said cards while RFID tags for cnc tools are like 10 bucks.
OK i'm officially jealous of your workshop 😍 I own a chocolate factory.... any chance of doing a exchange.....😃
19:06 very unique. arent everyone do it lol
I dont get it. Why you use a printer when you can mill these parts faster and in much better quality?
3D printing is a better route when you're rapid prototyping a design because
A) you have the ability to go through multiple iterations testing fit and tolerance quickly
B) the cost in plastic filament is much lower than raw stock that you remove material from
C) sometimes the design just doesn't need a machined part to operate (ex. the toolsetter cover that john showed off, absolutely 0 reason to machine that from a more expensive material when a 3D print will do just fine)
D) the time cost is not worth traditional machining all the time, why sideline a mill or lathe producing a part to organize or help setting something when a cheaper 3D printer could do that job while your costly machines can make parts for customers at the same time
Thousands of dollars for a great 3D printer. Lmao to make tags and little boxes that cost pennies. 3D printers are cool and there can be great uses for them but if u have to look very hard to find a use for them then u really shouldn’t get one
Shows how narrow minded you are..
/r/3dprintingintheshop
Yeggi.com is also good it goes out and searches a few different sites
#420 LOL
Or you could just measure the top of the haimer taster and offset it the radius hehe. Don't overcomplicate everything 🤣
That's not how it works...
@@nyccnc that's how we have done it the last few decades.
I personally created one of those items and was involved with development of another, John was NOT. He should be ashamed not to have given credit as he promised. This is not the first time either. John, you have poor ethics.
Are you a former employee?
Trent VanSlyke I’ve never been employed by him or any of his businesses or associates.
Wow. Is it possible for you to form a single coherent sentence _without_ requiring nauseating jump cuts every three words, looking like a cheap Max Headroom parody in the process??