We Found Out What KILLED My Galaxie's Engine!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ส.ค. 2024
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Beating the valves out of the guides instead of dressing the burrs first?!!! If it didn't need guides before, it does now.
Craig, I work in auto machine shop, the fe heads are bad to do that. Seats are worn out and valves are pulled up into head and will stand open when rocker arm is torqued down. Looks like it needs a full set of exhaust seats.The heads you reworked are not going to last long.The one with the stuck valve is galled to valve guide. The fe engine is a exspensive engine to build correctly. Because you have a lot invested in just the heads. I hope the best for you
Given all the bootleg stuff that you have found so far....I would go ahead and pull the motor out because there's no telling what else has been done to the lower end.... In my opinion just pull it and start all over
Who knows how much damage the oozing sillycon has done to oil galleries and the lubrication system in general. From the looks of the valves and piston tops I believe he has an oil burner on his hands. Rings, bore and Valve guides. Need a good truck cam to haul that '64... it's a boat. I'm reliving a 55 year old nightmare from when I was 16.
Don't risk it. Pull it. Fix it properly or swap your other motor in.
Chuck Haynes jj7
At 9:05, with your rocker arm assemblies removed, and all of the valves are up, or in the closed position, I would have liked to have seen you do a cylinder leakage test. And now that the valves are closed, you can put compressed air into the cylinders, and listen at the carburetor and tailpipe, and tell if it's the intake or an exhaust valve problem, before getting in too deep. Also have a radiator pressure tester attached to the radiator, and see if the pressure rises once you inject compressed air, this will tell you if it's a head gasket. Listening at the PVC, and hearing the woosh of air, will tell you if the rings are broken or frozen. You can do this on a static engine *BEFORE* you buy it. I just want the young guns to see this, to help them diagnose.
good to know.!!!!
@@stephenmanion3418
I'm a retired Ford, Lincoln, Mercury technician...
Joe Schlotthauer I have used that method for 40 years to check engines. Best method ever. I have ended many a car purchase by friends and customers after finding problems doing that.
Always a sign of a quality rebuild, a shit tin of red silicone. Bet the oil pump pickup is virtually blocked by red gunge.
Definitely rtv abuse lol
@@michaelstrafello8025 At least its high temp, lol
My take on your engine, the missed matched lifters were a big part of your problem, the force that was applied to your cam when the rocker arm assembly was tightened down, was putting a lot of pressure on the cam lobes with the longer lifters. Check the pushrods closely before using them again look at the tips for damage. I would replace the pushrods if it was my engine. The valley pan is fine that's how they are made. if you go with a flat tappet cam make sure to break it in correctly with oil that contains zinc.
Something to actually watch during quarantine and its an interesting video? That's awesome, always happy to drop by and watch your videos. Always something interesting
Deffinatly need to yank it. That metal went throughout that engine. Time for total rebuild. Been there with my 390 in my 61 tbird
I love your videos man, keep up the good work. Idk if it’s just me but your vids always give me like a traditional hotrodding sorta vibe. Ya know, just a young dude and some buddies making something cool outta what he has and what he can afford with common tools and a driveway. The way it oughta be.
28:00 Jesus, that lifter is so dished you could eat soup out of it!
After lapping your valves, take some brake clean and spray it on top of the intake and exhaust valves, and look on the combustion side, to see if it's leaking around the face of the valve.
With the heads off like that, you can take a known good flat file and run it over the combustion and intake side to see if it's warped...
First that happens when you dont have hardened valve seats and run unleaded fuel its sunken seats. And yes the cam is flat need zinc in the oil
I think you pretty much summed it up. Had pick up with a 360 that sucked the valves in the head like that.
Is there an additive that can take the place of the lead ? I remember Instead o'Lead but never had to use it .
The best thing to do is to put hardened valve seats in your heads but if you can't do that you can get LED substitute and run that
@@orionfixr7713 You don't need lead. Hardened seats help but the most important thing is to run the fuel octane you car needs. Leaded or unleaded 100 octane is 100 octane. If you need 93 and you run 87 this will happen. The lower octane fuel creates detonation as well as raise the combustion temperatures. With the higher temps the exhaust valve starts welding itself to the seat. These micro-welds are broken every time the valve lifts off of the seat taking apart of the seat with it. Run the correct octane and make sure your timing is right because detonation kills all engines. This is why you have to check your dynamic compression ratio and make sure your engine will be ok with the fuel you have available. Most octane boosters and lead additives are snake oil. So it's hard to even begin pointing someone in the right direction for those.
@@number3665 Thanks ! I have a '60 T-Bird with a 352 and it seems to run great on 93 octane and no additives but I was afraid I was screwing up the valves with no lead .
Craig, I don't know if this helps but I know it seems like you cant catch a break with these cars, but I really enjoy watching your video's! 30 mins isn't too long for me. I can't wait for the next one! Thank you!
Haha yeah these cars hate me. But I'm glad you're enjoying it!
When you buy junk this happens.
@@rickallen6378 Two cars with what were supposed to be rebuilt engines are junk?
a 35 min video! Heck Yea!! Dont worry about the time Craig, mots of us will watch the whole thing cause we love the vids you make!
I appreciate that!
When your starter sings and sounds like a Yoko Ono album ya got some serious shit going on under the hood...
The 390 in my 70 F-250 was a beast. You said this was a newly rebuilt engine? I'd never go back to this engine builder. Just a FYI Edelbrock makes a really nice set of heads for the f.e. motor.
Trick Flow makes REALLY nice heads for the FE.
@@azdesertrat6969 Blue Thunder makes REALLY NICE heads for the FE.- Fucking Expensive! LOL
Id be taking that motor out and checking it. The level of butchery on the valve train is epic. And my mind is on all that metal thats missing from the cam and lifters. ( bearings would be toast) I would also up grade to a small roller cam. With zink slowly dissapearing from even classic oils. A bit of future proofing
good job on the failure analysis, i enjoyed this. keep up the good work!
Just rebuild the entire engine.
Why mess around doing a half ass job, do it right.
Agree .. If they muffed the lifters that bad.. Did they do better on the bottom end? Doesn't have to be true.. They coulda gotten a shortblock from a machine shop. Would still be good to blue print the bottom.
Junk it
Yea, I agree with the other guy. There is no trusting anything in the bottom end after the stuff you found in the top. You might as well pull it all down, new rings, bearings, clean everything, inspect, hone, weigh and balance your own assembly. I'll bet rings are installed wrong and torque specs are wrong. You might as well make it and engine you can trust. With a nice fresh top end on an engine like that one, its going to take out any weak link in the bottom end in short order. You don't want to have done all that work to wipe a crank bearing or put a rod through the block. I use to see it all the time. No doubt this was some high school kids or novice first time build in its past with little money. Which was ok because we all start somewhere. But now it's your mess to do proper surgery on, and so far your doing a good job! You're going to have to decide how much money and where you want to put it. You might be going back for guides, but I get the sense you are doing the critical problems for now just to get her running.
Had to pause the video and just make a quick comment. What an improvement of your videos! It's awesome that your finally showing the work you are putting in and how you are doing it. Keep it up!
As a kid of the 60s, I remember you loved these engines or you hated them!! The small blocks had a good reputation!
I also am a kid from the 60's and I loved the them. I had a 352 in a 64 ragtop and a 390 in a 68 Torino GT. Both of them were virtually indestructible. And believe me when I say I pushed them both very hard. That Torino could sit in one spot and burn the rear tires off! Those were the days!
@@dougbrown9861; Yeah , I was there too . What I remember is tight wheel wells and skinny tires = No bite and no launch ! Had a '62 T-Bird 390 in a '61 Galaxie and my girl ( my wife for 43 years!! ) had a '63 T-Bird with a 390 . And to prove there's no fool like an old fool , we bought a '60 T-bird ( my wife's dream car ) with a 352 a couple of years ago . Gon'na take some effort to get that one ship shape . Every time we get one thing fixed something else is wonky ! HAHAHA ! So goes it . Some things never change !
Looks like my Galaxies 390 orange rtv for DAYS even around the pcv valve and the carb gaskets
@@orionfixr7713 it's a Ford!! Lol
Old engine running unleaded fuel wears the valve seats out
This gives me flashbacks of when my camshaft disintegrated after the first rebuild. Still gives heart palpitations! Keep up the good work!
That wiped out camshaft will cause your engine performance problems big time..... putting new lifters on a old cam, will wipe the cam out super quick... wonder if that was done, seeing the lifters were all not the same. Did it pop threw the carburetor all the time? Thats what wiped out cam symptoms are. The valve seat issue was from the lack of lead on the soft seats. The "FE" engine valve seats are hard to replace with hard ones, because there is not a lot of casting to work with. I completely overhauled the 352 4V in my 66 Galaxie, that I have been restoring on my channel. I even had the heads rebuild to handle lead free gas. Glad to see you get your old Galaxie going again. Cant wait to see both of them finished.
Craig as a 10 plus years in the Ford Dealership as a heavy duty line mechanic in the late 60's and early 70's . Vale seats were a problem after the Oil Companys removed the lead from our gasoline at that time. There was no lubrication for the upper cylinders in the fuel. So the valve seats would wear out quicker if the car/truck was ran hard more so trucks .I had one customer that had 35 or 40 f250 I put heads on every one of his trucks with in the first 30k till we found the fix for the heads . Fix was hard seats /stainless valve / bronze guide .
Yup, I have seen these old Ford's recess the exhaust valves. My 75 F250 did that. Had to put new seats and valves in it. Cool build. Thanks for Sharing.
Craig, I had the same problem with about every FE block I ever worked on back in the 80's. If it wasn't the cam, it was the lifters or the valves or the push rods or......you get the drift. Keep up the good work dude, you're living my dream right now. Three 60's Ford's and two of them 64 Galaxies (my personal favorite year btw) , it's bringing back the best memories of high school. Thanks again for another entertaining and informative video !
If you've had this many problems with the top end, I can't imagine what you're going to find with the lower end. It just stands to reason. I would say pull the block right now and pull the pan. Don't wait till you have it all back together. "That" would be a mistake on you.
This was supposed to be a freshly rebuilt engine? Not by anyone who had a clue as to what he was doing!
I agree. Probably a shadetree mechanic who "thought" he knew what he was doing lol
Ha slap some new gaskets bearings and some paint .... Rebuilt motor....junk...
@@nealpurdy1202 and a whole tube or two of rtv
Thrown together to sell quick
Starter sounds like it's on its last gasp!
You're bringing back a ton of old memories for this old 60's hot rodder!
Wow! an ad with content! I was about to skip your Ad and in the end I learned something, like when to use that stuff.
Yup....she be tired!! Sunken valves, dead cam...not a good combo, but very common on the old engines. I have 3 sets of early 289 heads that look just like it. Glad you got it figured out! Never know what you'll find when you open one up!
Not uncommon to see sunk exhaust valves in the early heads. They didn't have hardened seats back then. Valves sink, raises the valve height, and being a non adjustable shaft rocker, collapses the lifter plunger. In turn, the lifter doesn't rotate anymore, applies too much load on the cam lobe and wipes it. Then, the genius decides to install taller lifters, wiping the lobes even more, while hanging the valves open, hence no compression.
Only thing new on that engine is the red silicone from removing the intake to put those taller lifters in. The different lifter could have been done by mistake, but they definitely knew there was an issue.
Another weak part on these old FE's in the pencil distributor to oil pump drive, upgrade that over the old stock piece.
I believe I'd tear it the rest of the way down after seeing the crap they did to the top end.
Looks like who ever built that engine didn't know what they were doing
Oh,they knew exactly what they were doing,I've seen it done over and over before,build a POS out of scrap and sell it off as a freshly rebuilt engine,it's an old scam.
Jim Earnest
Exactly
When you put the cam from the 401 you needed to make sure the lifters went back on the same lobe they were on in the 401.
Remember this, black paint stops oil leaks, and red paint adds horsepower! Great video mate, keep it up!
You've inspired me Craig... I bought a 62 Ford f100 unibody... all original... my wife says Thanks alot ;)
My initial thought was that there were old heads that had never been rebuilt, and that the exhaust valves sank in to the seats from a lack of lead additive in the gasoline. However, that would only hold true if ALL of the exhaust valves had sunk. You're right. Someone inexperienced worked on those heads and cut the seats too deep, then most likely got help from some old school car guy who knew enough to install shorter lifters to hide the bad head work. Given this, I'd error on the side of caution, pull the engine, and inspect the bottom end for any other shoddy work.
Great video, So glad my 390 in my F100 doesn't have any major problems. I would not want to deal with all this.
I must’ve missed the “rebuild” part. No valve guide work, no seat work, no valve guide seals, no rebuild. Disassembled and reassembled...yeah
Would have loved to see how bad that stuck valve galled the guide......hackery at best.
Yes. It's important to note there is a specification for "deck height" as I recall the term. The valve stem height is to be at a certain dimension to fit in the valve lifters internal operating range. When the lifters pump up, the lifters hold the range needed yet allow the valves to seat. If somehow the valve stems are too high or too low, operation will not be as intended, might hardly work at all. Edit: this would be a must when the valve seats are reground and/or the same with the valves themselves.
Rebuilt like the former owner rebuilt the engine. Terms get tossed around incorrectly all the time.
Remember that place in the steering with the slop? It's a valve that has to move, so the pressure is directed right or left. It may be worn, but it has to move. I see you make some mistakes, but that's okay. You will learn a lot. I had a 64 Galaxie 50 years ago. I drove it and worked on it for 17 years. I wish I still had it. I made a lot of mistakes too. Be careful who you take advice from. Many mistakes I made were because I listened to the wrong people. Maybe find a part time job in an alignment shop, brake shop, or machine shop. Those are the places I learned the most.
And then there was the time in 1973 that I drove my cousin to the airport in DSM. This was a similar Galaxie from about 1964. I was along because he did not trust the car. His girlfriend and I started back to Ames, but did those brakes ever feel mushy! We soon coasted through a red light because there were no brakes! Added some brake fluid, drove it home cautiously and parked it!
I had a 69 pontiac Catalina that had a bad timing chain and nylon gears. As I got more into it, I discovered the heads were damaged as well as the camshaft also. Back in the 1980's, I got into rebuilding the top ends of the 1970's Mustang 2's. I could pick them up dirt cheap and every one had the same issue. Lack of oil to the top end destroyed the camshaft. I was the only one that was doing that type of work and everyone I knew had a Mustang 2 they wanted fixed. Every weekend I had a different color car in my garage, all Ford,all Stang2. My neighbor thought I had a chameleon car. I finally stopped fixing those and moved to the 90's Mustangs. Then I discovered the Maverick and that was it for Mustang. I found a now love in the Maverick and again, had a yard full of those. By far the BEST Ford ever made in my book. Now I wouldnt get caught buying a Ford. I only buy Subaru or Honda.
I have a few Falcons and Mustangs with the power ram (assist type) steering. They all have some play, but not that much. Some play is necessary for the system to work - the shuttle valve has to go left and right to direct pressurized fluid for assist in both directions. When the system is working properly, it is only mildly terrible.
A collet works real well for holding valves in a drill press. I have a full set for my Jet Mill~Drill... Better grip with less chance of damaging the valve stem. I hope you washed everything real well after lapping those valves in...
Thank you.
29:53 i’m happy to know that i’m not the only one who does that with the glasses 😂😂
Let's go something to watch on youtube
Not bashin you, but don't say you rebuilt those heads. Rebuilding the heads include valve guides, valve seats, valve seals, grinding and finishing valves, decking the head surface, and of course new parts if necessary.
I think "refreshed" or "freshened up" is better, and of course being honest about everything that's been done. That's how you ended up with a "rebuilt" motor that's mostly junk, because someone said it was a built or rebuilt motor. Only the person who worked on it/ owns it knows what has been done.
Main point is that if it's not new or machined and done 100% it's not rebuilt. Again not bashin you, a lot of people do the same thing. Sometimes people take advantage of words to sell something and it's not the whole or real story and people who don't know any better get screwed over because the classic they bought had a "rebuilt" motor.
Also on a side note I refreshed recently a sbc 350. new gaskets everywhere except head gaskets. All seals everywhere new valve covers, timing cover, oil pan, rear main, oil pump, intake, carb, distributor, water pump.... basically everything you can do without getting into the internals, other than the oil pump and timing chain set, that was just for peace of mind, as it's a good motor it just needed fresh seals and some love. But even that's not a "rebuilt" motor, no machining work or anything like that. Just to make it functional and last as long as possible on a budget getting a project going.
So definitely not bashing you because I freshen up stuff as well, I'm not made of money either and have to get creative every now and then. Just be honest is the main thing I suppose.
You are spot on. However, I did much the same thing when I first started turning wrenches. It was the classic case of unconscious incompetence; I didn't know what I didn't know. The funny thing is that most of the time things worked fairly well.
pretty good bash
so rebuilding an engine requires blueprinting, boring, line honing, rod resizing, block washing, magnafluxing, etc? NO.
I had my LS3 refreshed last year. All new bearings, seals, rings, Melling HV oil pump, gaskets, cylinder liners honed, lifters, new cam, valve seals, springs and hardware, timing chain and upper gear, heads milled .015 - I am still reluctant to call it rebuilt as the crank and pistons were untouched and reused, the bores were lightly honed, and the valve guides and seats were left alone. Would you consider this refreshed or rebuilt?
InFiD3ViL That's VERY close to rebuilt, in my opinion I would say rebuilt would have to include new pistons, wrist pins and have the cylinders bored and honed. Most of the time cranks only need to be polished and rods usually are okay, and this is all going on the basis that it's a good running healthy motor that's just tired and wore out. And again it's just another case of if you ever sold it, just be honest and tell them what you did and didn't do.
But one of the big things for me is a media blast or hot tanking of the heads and block and rods, main caps ect. And an extremely good wash, this is a VERY crucial step in what I would consider "rebuilt" as rebuilt basically means "new". Very important as there are many oil and coolant passages and pockets and cracks where gunk and grime can and WILL build up.
Why it's very important to have valve springs set up to correct pressures and heights. My 428cj had one side literally driving the other side because of different valve spring pressures and heights.
The vale pan is not cut that’s what they were like from factory, also the Exhaust valves are sunk because they do not have hardened seats
The "bruh" at 6:28 lol
Just stumbled upon your videos.
My first car was a black over red '64 Galaxy 500, 390, 3 on the tree. Needless to say, your videos really caught my attention! Love your passion for the Gals! I'm looking forward to your further adventures, on these builds. Good luck!
All the metal from the cam and lifters is throughout the entire engine. If you don't take out block and clean it all out it's going to wipe out all the bearings, oil pump, and the replaced cam and lifters. Been there and done that.
My buddy and I restored a 64 bard find Galaxie in high school in the 80's. We did this with a teenager's budget and tools. I now feel like Tony Stark. Thank you. lol
Hardend seats damn spell check
do a liquid test before installing
Stumbled across your channel. I miss my 64 galaxy500 XL. Mine was even white, with padded dash and swing away steering column. Great car, look forward to more videos.
If they same five year old rebuilt the bottom end, i would be afraid....i would be very afraid!!
You certainly have no luck bud!
Why assemble without a valve job. Install stellite seats. Correct stem height. You don't know nothing
I agree. Pull the engine and go iver it w/a fine tooth comb. They fudged the valve train what's to say didn't foul-up some thing else?
Nice Cath it good detail with the video wating to se the first start
Sorry, my earlier comment was so negative, you did a great job on the video. Keep up the great work. I am looking forward to seeing the next episode.
The gas we run today caused that u need to put gardens seats in ur new heads or you'll ruin them they'll recess to
Apparently I have missed a few (a lot) of videos. Do you still have the red Galaxie as well or just this white one now?
Looks like someone just put some valves in they had lying around ! Or like you said the seats are junk or fitted badly 👍 hope it’s the end of galaxy trouble .. happy cruising .
The lifter mismatch was definitely the problem. A hydraulic cam, regardless whether it has shaft mount rockers, single stud rockers or even bridged rockers..... the lifters are what adjust the lash. Valve stem height at rest is irrelevant. But if those lifters have different internal dimensions, and are bottoming and forcing the valves to hang open.... that's the issue.
Cleaned & painted doesn't make a rebuilt piece!
Then again, after seeing the steering linkage SLOP, the unmachined heads will fit right in.
Maybe if you spray enough of the sponsored product into the engine 5:52 that may give it another lease on life.
Something to ponder ACE, where did all the camshaft metal go that left the lobes & lifters?
The Galaxy deserves better than a half ass engine recondition.
Every 352/390 I’ve ever pulled apart has had 3-5 problems. Cracked heads, junk lifters, bent pushrods, worn out lifters, bent valves.
Not hard to believe as those engines are up around 60 years old now . As they got older the maintenance probably dropped off and got driven till they quit .
i had a good handful of F,E engines and all of them were good solid motors
sounds like the people in your area are idiots.
Man I can't wait to build my 428 stroker for my 67 fastback.
Loved my days junkyard building a big block for the first time. But it was early 80s and then alot of junkyard parts. Now just no old stuff and subdivisions...rats. like your videos thank you!
make sure and use high zinc oil with flat tappet hydraulic cams,i’m rebuilding a motor due to a cam going flat from using conventional oil
Ok class can you say NFG, ol'boy that told you that he rebuilt that, was looking for a sucker
Run rotella 15-40 oil in all flat tappet motors. The lifters are poor quality from all suppliers. If you have deep pockets run joe Gibbs oil other wise Rottela. I was given this tip after wiping out brand new comp cam and lifters came from there tech line. New cam worked perfect was in a Windsor. Great job on the channel especially for such you guys.
Best bet is to pull the motor take it completely apart hot tank the block have the crank and rods checked put rings main, rod, and cam bearings in it. The $500 now will save a lot more then that later.
Why are you using the ignition switch to turn the engine over for the compression testing! There is a starter relay on the right fender, two big wires, and two little wires. Take the little wires off, just pull them off, and short those little studs. Like magic the engine will crank. To make life even easier, get a 2 to 3 piece of lamp cord. At one end put a small alligator clip on each wire. At the other end, a push button switch. Put the alligator clips on the little studs, now you have a push button start switch.
Turn head up
Valve springs down put some gasoline in CC and see if it leaks passed dear into intake or exhaust runner
Rebuild the 352 to a hi po 352, more compression, solid lifter cam, 4 barrel holley. Like the 352's were prior to 63. Most fe engines ive come across have a couple bad cam lobes, slopped timing chains, those single row timing chains in those fe's when ran hard would jump all the time and usually bent a couple valves with it.
All valley pans on fe's all like that it wasn't cut down just OEM! And a lot of people use a shit ton of atv because they don't want to have to remove that monster intake a second time!!😂😂
Wow, Your Blaster commercial was interrupted by a commercial, lol.
18:16 enough silicone to seal Noah's ark...
non-hardened exhaust valve seats. Used with leaded fuel pre-1975. No good today. Fix for many dollars or replace with modern units.
Check out the intake manifold fit on the head.....wrong intake gaskets cowbow!
Love watching your vidios on the truck and galaxie.
I have a 64 myself you need to get some catalogs from Dearborn classic , ecklers,Macs,and you can get a lot of parts .I like Dearborn and ecklers .can wait to hear both going again.
The stock cast iron FE intake is about 80 ibs.
And if I remember right, an aluminum manifold is about 50 lbs. less.
It's half of the heads. The rocker cover bolts to the top of the manifold.
Say Jeb is you done Rebuilding that engine? Yep Used all them fancy parts even!
I'd try backing off the rocker arm hold down bolts to see if the valves are actually closing or being held open by the rocker.
I must have found that guy's brother. Bought a junker for $50 cause of the 427 lo-riser alum. intake.Inside found mismatched lifters like yours and 352 rods and pistons and 390's.FT crank,with a FT timing cover.Well,I got some adjustable rockers and a killer intake for $50.
Valley pan isn’t cut, that’s how they came from the factory. My 1966 390 is the same way and i was the first person to tear into it. Best of luck
No way I put that engine back together without new rods and mains and ring.
Whoever done that was an idiot no way I would trust there work.
Good video although I would have sent the heads out. Great work
I used to rebuild engines for a living,,, what you have there is a poorly executed (what my Dad called it) a "J____h overhaul". Whoever did this did not have much in the way of either money, or extra used parts. I know it is hard for some folks, but you need to WAIT till you get reliable parts, either from the junkyard, or parts store before you try this. Also it helps to have a machine shop that will work with you if necessary. Mine was great! I closed my shop when he retired.
I got a few questions what are the plans the f100 motor and when are going to finish the frame for it as well. If it’s done when are you going to put the frame under the f100. Why don’t you just finish your f100 and then work on the galaxy. I know time and money are a factor.
What kind of cam are you going to put back in the 410?
I was wondering, why you didn't pull the engine? So much easier to work on, when on a stand and as Bryan Hansen said, I would drop the oil pan and see what's in the lower end, who knows what crap you may find, also makes it easier to detail/repair the engine bay. Did you check the heads for flatness before you put in the 9hrs of work on the heads? What about replacing the valves with new ones? I would check the deck for flatness before re-assembly.
The problem is im not very wealthy at all. So I really don’t have the money to even attempt to go through the bottom end. It made 55psi of oil pressure before and never smoked. So I had to go on a limb and hope it was good. (After having it running the last few days it seems good). But I also have 5 vehicles I’m working on right now so this car needs to get going. Pulling the engine would have pushed the project at least a week out which wouldn’t have worked for my schedule.
Put a boss 429 in it. I have a 1966 ford galaxie and I have all ways ran a big block 429 in it. This was my first car I had owned. As soon as I turned 17 and I got my license I drove the wheels off it. It had 850 hp back in 1989 and I still own it.
NICE, YOUR GOOD FOR NOT GETTING SLOPPY
I think the FE valley pans came like that, every one of the three that I've pulled apart had pans that looked like that. Also permatex's "The Right Stuff" is your friend on the China walls and water jackets on the head. Ive done a lot of work on FE motors and I enjoy the FE videos.
Damn Craig, What a nightmare of problems.