We Found Out What KILLED My Galaxie's Engine!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- Sadly this is just the beginning of what I found inside this engine. Next video I'll tear into the short block...
-
FOLLOW ME ON INSTAGRAM!
@thecraig909
@carrnagge
-
CHECK OUT MY COUSIN MICHAEL'S KILLER '69 MUSTANG FASTBACK PROJECT!!!
/ @abouthorsepower
-
SEND ME STUFF! (If you want)
TheCraig909
P.O. Box 362
Ramona, Ca
92065
![[FULL EP.73] เปิดบ้าน 70 ล้าน "แป้ง Zbing" ยกมาทั้งญี่ปุ่น l เคหสถานบานปลาย l One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YBnJhTt07Pg/mqdefault.jpg)
Give these young dudes some latitude. They are wrenchin on stuff when most kids their age are not. Good job guys!
::chuckles:: I'm trying but still so many youtube vids and I did this kinda thing 40 years ago and was better informed.
Ruben P Especially hard when they try to sound like they know what they're talking about. Like what they adamantly said about the E5 heads being worse compared to the E7 which they are nearly identical to!?
Ya gotta learn sometime. I did laugh when he was surprised that coolant ran out when he took the cover off.
Craig...you're an inspiration to young people to save these older cars.
You better check the oil pump. It looks like it was running without oil!
If the cam wasn't turning the oil pump wasn't either.
Your absolutely right dmonat !!! Most definitely wrecked all the bearings and crank too !!
@@benjaminsmith8058 sorry to hear that
If the cam wasn't turning, it's a fare bet the engine wasn't running.
they didn't install the oil pump drive shaft. *it's not in there*
EXACTLY! Even with a brand new cleaned block, after 5 seconds of running there would be evidence of oil EVERYWHERE. Im still having a hard time believing that everything still looks so good. I know they didnt get it started but they cranked the shit out of it....
As an old Ford guy, (age 65) I am glad to see you young guys taking an interest in and working on a carbureted engine and doing the due diligence on an engine failure - you learn by doing. My view on the coolant is it likely dropped the additive package out ( wrong formulation) which clogged the ports in the head. Keep those old Fords running and have fun!
That is a roller block with a flat tappet cam installed... The two threaded bosses in the lifter Gally is for the spider to hold the dog bones for the roller lifters
you need to completely disassemble check EVERYTHING
I found his problem the minute the video started I saw the brand name FORD on the hood...
1)"SE" in the casting number doesn't stand for T-Bird. S does. E is for Engine. (A would be chassis. B would be body.)
2)Marquis is pronounced "Mar-key"
3) E5AE and E7TE heads are the SAME except E5 had 67-70cc chambers, E7 had 62-65. All 289 & 302 heads (except GT40 & GT40P) had 1.94 x 1.04 intake ports & 1.24 x 1.00 exhaust ports and 1.78 intake & 1.46 exhaust valves. GT40 ('93-'95 Cobra, '93-'95 Lightning, '96-early '97 Explorer/Mountaineer [F1ZE]) had 1.84 intake & 1.54 exhaust valves and 60-63cc chambers. Late '97 Explorer GT40P [F7ZE] had 1.84/1.46 valves and 58-61 chambers. The '86 only E6AE head with shrouded valves are the WORST heads.
Hate to see someone didn’t take the time to do it right in the first place and costing another money. Love the vidja and keep up the good work my man!!!
well the oil pump runs off the distributor the distributor off the cam so if cam not turning you WON"T get oil in filter ...just a thought from a old ford nut
Exactly what I was thinking myself, and I’m still technically new to the sbf stuff even though I’ve had 4 of them. Still learning new tricks about them.
Bradley Ruffner and never fails you pull distributor and rod falls to the bottom lol
it always helps when the oil pump drive shaft is installed. i wonder why this sb ford expert didn't see it was _not in there._ that was the first thing i noticed when it was apparent the pump was inop.
Axle Grind sometimes they get stuck on distributor most time they pull out oil pump. However like you said since someone was in there maybe it was never installed lol
@@robbiefrentz9427 Theres supposed to be a flat spring washer on the oil pump driveshaft that keeps the shaft from being pulled out of the oil pump when you pull the distributor on the older sbf's, windsors and FE's. Ive never rebuilt a Lima but im sure they're all the same in that time period.
The odd freeze plug had a tab that machine shops install to see if it's been over headed cause the tab melts.
Per the wife- "name her Lexie the galaxie!"
Mater and his gal Lexie?
With the cars red color I imagine a good name would be "Rosie" the Galaxie
All fasteners that thread directly into the block or heads of a Windsor engine are standard thread. They are not metric. Sometime in the 70s or 80s, Ford started using metric fasteners in the front accessories and the brackets, but they did not change the design of the block or the heads.
.3328 lobe lift means it had about .532 lift, lobe lift times rocker ratio (1.6)
I was wondering if they factored in rocker ratio too..
Yeah, that would be a big cam!
If the cam did not turn when you try to start it the engine had no oil pressure
Gotta name it Flo man, goes with whole Cars movie theme you got going
Looks like you get to put right the last owners bodged up engine, In the long run at least you know it will be put together correctly and just the way you want it. Keep up the great work. As for a name Maters girlfriend was Sally.
15w-40 rotella is the best to run in the old engines, I have 4 old truck 3 with 302s and one with a 351m they run great
told same i was told 10yrs ago thing from comp cams customer service after 351 windsor ate brand new cam after being broke in correctly.
So your running a diesel oil in a gas engine? 15-40 has no more zinc than any other oil- DUH! Also 15-40 has additives required by a diesel which is NOT good in a gas engine!
@@danielscott6787 not trying to gett into a debate. the reasons i was given was that shear strength is much higher in the rotella to deal with the much higher compresion ratio. I was also told higher zinc content. (I honestly dont know this to be fact) . Only harm would be if vehical utilized an O2 sensor and cats. could possibly (would is how i understood it) damage and affect there performance. And lastly the new cam preformed flawlessly for next two years until sold. Please keep in mind last cam swap was before event. i did not have time to properly pull engine down after cam faliure (2 lobes and lifter destroyed). obviously not the desired way to do it changed oil 2 times and ran with it. Quite frankly expected to deal with oil pressure issues had none.
A man to that I have 1965 ford 260 V8 over 500000 miles all she gets is rotella
One thing, casting codes don't mean it was casted in that year. It means the mould ''edition'' or year. Your rods will have a C9 on them, meaning the casting mould/shape/version is from 1969 but could of been made in 1986 or whatever
302 rods were C8OE not 9.
So...$3000 in engine repairs huh?.... Well ig the idea of a 390 4 speed isnt that bad now, it it?
Mr Slick 390? 428 for sure
Mr. Slick I agree it needs it’s 390 interceptor w/a 650 Holley double pumper. My brother got 7 miles per gallon as long as he didn’t kick the secondaries in!
@@justinw.2376 As long as it's pErIoD cOrReCt lmao. I don't get how craig was about to put an 80s engine in a 60s car and call it "period correct"
Mr Slick lol ya there’s nothing about that car thats period correct rn anyway lol. Might as well make it cool
The only thing about an fe engine is the non hardened valve seats so the valves end up hammering the hell out of the seats so expensive
And the timing sprocket is NOT a press on in a SBF/Windsor application
It's a roller cam block, the 2 1/4" NC bolt holes in the center of the lifter valley signify that. If you measured the lobe lift at .334" multiply that by rocker ratio of 1.6 to 1 and you get .530" ish lift. Cheers
Yep some assclown downgraded a good roller block.
All the bolts on a small block ford are standard. Some metric sockets are really close to standard sizes. The spark plug threads are metric like all automotive engines since about 1933.
It broke the dowel pin because bolt was gone/lose
Thats a remain engine... That's what you see in the freeze plug
May be a remaned short block. Definately wasn't a remaned long block.
If your timing chain sprocket came off and the engine ran at all with the loose sprocket, that engine may have spun enough with no oil pressure to mess up your bearings. Remember your oil pump runs off distributor gear on the end of the camshaft. Looked like some metal flake in the bottom. If you ran with heavy oil and had some oil pressure at all, your oil filter may have bypassed with cold oil and run metal flake thru engine. A friend had that happen when his cam failed. Pop your rod and crank caps to make sure it's all okay.
That looks like a roller block to me, there are 2 threaded holes in that block where the lifter tray bolts down!
Absolutely correct...
paul Aleshire thank you for the info learning all this slowly.
@@Thecraig909 make her a full roller motor, better hp than non roller.
@@Thecraig909 1986 was the first year of EFI .. 85, however, was first year of roller in Mustangs. Roller w/mechanical fuel pump block (85 spec) would be sweet. Mercruiser (0r marine) blocks are often Roller with Mechanical fuel pump boss regardless of year. 351w's were very popular marine blocks. Very popular in Master Craft n Ski Nautique inboard ski boats.
Closeoutracer The fuel pump boss is on the timing cover not the block on SBF.
Looks like a roller block to me, with a flat tapet cam. Put some bearings in and hone it, then bolt it back together the right way and run it. Doing great keep t up
Someone bought a remain short block and put heads and all on it... It looks to be a roller block
Was just about to comment that, its definatly a newer block with the tapped out roller skeleton bolt holes
@@jakeweg4886 the threaded bosses and the XXX casting marks in the valley all belong to roller blocks.
Your car looks like Christine's sister. (from the movie)
I knew a girl in high school named Christine. She had a sister named Cindy. (her daddy called her Sin)
Cindy also had a few loose screws and "bottom end" issues. 😲
So I think "Cindy" is a good name for your Galaxy. 😊
I used to go out with a fisherman's daughter named Cindy.she didn't like going fishing but she loved going down on the dock.
@@cooterhazzardbhogg8236
Still that scent of fish 🐠 in the air. 😋
Does the oil pump run off the cam? With the cam chain off, and the cam not turning, the oil pump not turning would explain why there's almost no oil in the filter and why the top end oil galleries were not full of oil. Metal bits in the bottom from bearings that weren't getting lubed. Your comment at the end about the machine shop says that's the case. You should have undone one of the bearing caps on the crank to check for wear before sending it to the machine shop.
Sell it.. So many roller blocks sitting around collecting dust .. cheap, free, etc.
I use the hardest allen cap screws I can buy to fasten anything together. No broken bolts to have to deal with. "Never Seize" compound helps a lot, too. I use six point sockets on the old bolts to get them out without rounding off the bolt heads. It saves a lot of grief that way.
If you haven't found out, cams are the lobe lift times the rocker ratio. So .330 cam lift times the ratio say 1.5 I think on ford SB = .495 lift of the valves, which is a fairly high lift cam.
Give her the name Christine. She’s not a Plymouth but she’s coming back with vengeance!
This motor obviously has never started since rebuild. With no fastener on the timing gear, it is unlikely that it made more than a dozen revolutions, hence, no oil in the oil filter, no oil to lifters, no start, can only be turned by starter. Unless it is equipped with a standard trans, and was towed along distance, in a desperate attempt to start,there should be no damage to the bottom end. An FE block would be authentic, as well as doable with all OEM parts and trinkets. Good luck guys.
No bolt on cam gear also no fuel pump eccentric, you running electric fuel pump?
Honestly that engine is too clean to scrap...but Ithink you need to build something better than a 302 for that car ...it really needs a 406 big block
Maybeline. The e5 head was like the E7 head, except larger chambers. The one to avoid is the E6SE head with the "swirl" combustion chamber and shrouded valves. Maybe use those GT40p heads on it and swap in a roller cam, even an Explorer cam. Use the lifters, hold down and pushrods from a roller motor like Explorer, Crown Vic, later F series. I would also make sure the balancer has a press fit. The blue oil may be from assembly lube.
I would tear it all the down, to be on the safe side, going back on the intake, throw the cork gaskets away, put silicone front and back on intake, and put a bolt on the timing gear, which it didn't have before, if it had it would have eaten the cover up trying to come out
I would tear it down. If they forgot to put that bolt in for the cam what if they forgot to put a piston ring in? What if they forgot to torque one of the crank cap bolts? etc,etc.
Hey bud, Just so you know if the cam isn't rotating then you don't have the oil pump pumping there for no oil to the motor. That's why the top end looked like there wasn't any oil in it. Looks like who ever put it together forgot to put the timing bolt in it but put the rest together. Good luck
was the woodruff key missing on crank? that damper should NEVER pull off by hand. OR they installed wrong one. Sad story that whoever assembled engine was clueless.
The odd freeze plug has a heat tab glued to it. The remanufacturer uses it to determined the motor was overheated if it’s returned for warranty. It melts out when the block gets too hot.
Be sure to run a tap into the camshaft to check the threads for that maybe the reason the bolt was not installed in the first place. My years of working at rebuild engines have shown to me why someone didn't put in the bolt may have cross-threaded it.
Then timing chain bolt also holds the fuel pump eccentric. Don’t forget to install it unless you plan on running an electric fuel pump.
I wouldn't trust that motor. Whoever put that thing together was a dope!
Soulwagon maybe on some dope
Or on dope
Coulda done better with baling wire and duct tape.
who was Maynard's gf in the movies? think it was Sally after the old Lasalle
Yea it was Sally
.3328" cam lift is .532" lift at the valves. Look at the back of the camshaft for brand/part # marks.
Craig you can do a roller camshaft with this engine, The GT40P heads are the best stock production heads ford made, Also the trucks from 85-92ish were roller block NON HO as well, I had an 87 truck with the E5TE casting as well that was roller ready , the numbers don't mean always what it came from it means when they were engineered and what for, It wouldn't have made sense for ford to have engineered parts for every model of vehicle a 5.0L roller block can be used in cars trucks, stangs etc. It looks like your block is a Porno block (google it) the pistons look to be aftermarket so look to see if the block has been bored out. any way you go i'd get your block crack checked (magnafluxed) and the bores measured. bottom line. Also remember if your going to use the AOD with that car you'll likely need a converter and a set of gears. something to think about.
“Just remember whose stronger, the old man” that sounds like my pops also
Good thing you learned it was a new flat tappit. You need to get a good carb on it, some break in oil and do a break in on it unless you want a ruined engine from the start
I'm not a huge car/engine guy but even I know there are two major causes of engine death, one: heat, not enough coolant, we saw sludge in the cooling ports, and the water pump was questioned. Two: lack of oil. The oil pump looked too clean. It is possible that the oil pump was defective. What parts should have oil were bone dry. I don't know enough on Ford engines to know if the crank or cam drives the oil pump but obviously a practically clean oil pump is a clue as to what killed this engine. If a rebuild is done I'd I'd get a brand new oil pump
its nice to see some young cats working on some american iron. waaay to many vids on imports. keep it up fellas!
Makes sense that the oil in the filter would be blue. If the engine was "broken in" before you got it, then you changed the oil. The cam wasn't turning, so it wouldn't pump oil through the filter.
I have a suggestion about your oil, 20/50 for the Summer and 10/40 for the Winter, if you drive it in the Winter that is. But you should still use the 10/40 when it's really cold outside, it's easier on the engine. 20/50 in the cold takes longer to warm up than 10/40.
Stick with 10w30 it's recommended because of gearing and design of oil pump. Just use additives or high mileage oil of the same weight.
For anyone on this thread that is bright enough to read this the kid on here makes a very intelligent observation about this particular 80's engine were not just METRIC they had BOTH SAE Nuts & bolts. One of the very reasons I hate FORDs to the core it wasn't uncommon at all to find a fucking SAE bolt with a friggin Metric nut on the other side of em. Especially the Galaxy cars and pickups too. From 78 to about 91 they were fucking nightmares. You could have your whole tool box strewn across the yard garage and driveway to change a fucking spark plug and that ain't no lie.... Back when people were not very familiar with Metric or Metric tools so it was a goddamned quest at times to find just the right socket or wrench to fit stuff and most of the time the shit was so froze rusted on the shit stripped... I always hated FORD 4 just that reason and crappy main bearings and oil pumps such as this kid is encountering a bad oil pump a blocked up engine block and total FORD stupidity... But one day the kid will buy a Chevy and be done with Fords like many of my Ford loving friends... They got tired of making the parts houses rich beyond their wildest dreams... Buy a Chevy and keep the grease out from under your finger nails and your money in the bank...
I didn't expect to have a missing camshaft bolt. That is just stupid. I had bought a big block flathead (337 cid) many years ago for almost nothing. It had been rebuilt and stored for about 20 years under the stairs in a shop. Supposedly it was seized and when I tried turning the crank, it would turn a couple of degrees only. So yes it was seized but the strange part is that the crankshaft would turn back and forth a couple of degrees. I found that whoever put the engine together used too long of bolts on the camshaft (it used four) and they were binding against the block's ribs behind the camshaft gear and stopping the cam and crankshaft from rotating.
My father and all his brothers were phenomenal mechanics. I cant tell you how many late night engine building sessions i witnessed in my youth. The problem was that they would start drinking about 7p.m. and were usually shit faced and silly by midnight. Unfortunately if mistakes were made, it was near the end. So i can imagine how someone could forget to bolt down a timing gear. But as i said, they were great mechanics. And they always caught their mistakes all the while laying blame on each other. A few times they even blamed me even though i was only 12. It was a great life.
The engine ran until the timing quit. It likely only ran for an instant and died. No oil in the filter says it all.
With all those metal shavings in the oilpan you should disassemble that motor completely and and have it hot tanked, and put new main and rod bearings in ( Clevite 77 bearings) and replace the oil pump with a melling oil pump, don't trust or take for granite any work done on that past rebuild.
Craig I want to tell you what you and your friends that are here wrenching on these old cars have begun. You all are on the road to being adults that can deal with shit. In a time when most people your age cant change a flat tire you are making efforts to learn skills that will serve you the rest of your life. You will find that the more you do on these old cars the better you will get at figuring shit out and as you pit yourselves against troubles and hardships you will find one day that you can deal with nearly anything you face in life because you have become strong thru efforts. Keep up the good fight my friend. Welcome to being a functioning adult in a world of helpless people that do not want to get their hands dirty.
This is why I love your videos, Craig. You’re not afraid to show all the setbacks you guys go through when you work on your stuff. It really makes the end result that much richer. P.S., I think Annette would be a good name for the Galaxie.
Appreciate that Parker. I’d rather have everyone roast me and show my fails then try and pretend to be perfect. And thanks for the name suggestion!
you need to pull it all apart ancd check the crank and main bearings
The front balancer should be a press fit onto the crankshaft. You should go through the entire engine.
that balancer is junk and probably the crankshaft snout.
The E5 head is basically the same head as a E7 head... The E6 head is the one to stay away from...
A set of GT40P heads will give a good power gain!
I think that you should call her Rosie!!!
I thought "Rosie" right away, too.
Put a 390 or 427 in it FE motors are the way To go
Yep, especially in a galaxie. And good job not calling them a big block.
Why not Sixth Lord the FE series is a big block . And yes put a good 390 in there you can make one run real stout. You need to find some C3 "H" casting heads, a PI intake and a truck 390 bottom end.
Stick with the small block clean it up and put it back together.. FE cost way to much to build and are very heavy.
@@salvadordollyparton666 [ignorant question alert]: Why not "big block"?
@@davecc0000 do I really need to repeat myself? Ford does not make "big or small" blocks. Not a GM. There are more than 2. Gm had 2, small and big. Ford has had how many completely different engine families? None of which were referred to as "big or small". Flathead, Y block, f.e., m.e.l., f.t., 385, 335, Windsors, mods, etc. It's stupid, incorrect, and a complete waste of time referring to a Ford engine by big or small. You still have to clarify which size and family. Since, again, there are more than 2...
Before dropping $3000+ on a frankenmotor that was built with mismatched parts, I would either start from scratch with all new parts, or just get a brand new crate motor and be done with it.
@12:30 - Why would you trust the bottom end given all the incompetence you've seen elsewhere? I wouldn't trust anything here. "Trust but verify." If it were me, I'd be pulling the bottom end apart and checking every journal. And I wouldn't trust the piston ring gaps either. Subscribed!
The casting number was the first year Ford used that casting. They could have used it for many years like the E7TE heads on the Mustang used from 1987 to 1995 and also used on ford truck motors too.
with the cam not rotating, the oil pump and distributor weren't either.
I had a friend's motor do something similar back in the early 1990s. He had built a 454 Chevy for his C-30 3+3 and had driven roughly 300 miles on the engine when it stopped running, about 50 miles from my house. It had lost spark and we suspected something in the HEI ignition had gone south. After swapping modules and coils a few times, I noticed the rotor was always in the same position. In the end, it turned out three teeth were sheared off of the distributor drive gear. The cam would turn, but the distributor had seized, so there was no spark. Digging deeper, I found an 18" long streamer of silicone sealer had been ingested into the oil pump pickup, effectively blocking off the flow of oil. There had been enough flow of oil elsewhere to save the bulk of the motor, up to the point the distributor seized. I took the old oil pump pickup screen and had been trying to clean it out. I was slinging solvent out of it when the silicone finally came loose and showed the true cause of failure.
Man, silicone sealer is so overused! I've grown to hate that Crap!
@@greatnortherntroll6841 Very true. This stuff was being used long before the one-piece oil pan gaskets and I'm betting the person using it didn't really let it cure much before the oil pan was installed. I hate the stuff in automotive applications and this i a good example of why it's never a good idea to re-use an oil pump pickup screen. Looking into the screen, the streamer wasn't visible at all at the start.
You need to find yourself a 351 Windsor or just go with a 390 or 460 big block it's a big car that 302 will be a pig in that car
That wired looking freezes plug is a block heater
My 1980 Thunderbird is only 131 hp so you got me beat and I thought you had a 289 motor why dont you think about putting that in the Galaxy
'80 Thunderbird would be the 255/4.2 - destroked 302/5.0.
@@foxfordcatguy2283 255 is a totally diff block crank rods etc.
Mean Gene The 255 was not a "totally differently block, crank, rods." It still was a SBF just like 221/260/289/302 and looked just the same. It used standard 302 rods, a lightweight crank with the same 3.00 stroke as a 302 and a lightweight block with smaller 3.68 bore. All accessories heads (garbage with 1.67/1.45 valves), intake, timing cover, valve covers, etc., etc. all interchange.
Info from:
"How To Rebuild Your Small-Block Ford" by Tom Monroe
"The Official Ford Mustang 5.0 Technical Reference & Performance Handbook" by Al Kirschenbaum
"High-Performance Ford Engine Parts Interchange" by George Reid.
@@foxfordcatguy2283 255 had its own specific small bore block, heads, intake, crank etc. Only external parts and rods were interchangeable. Which makes it different. That's what I was getting at. When I speak of engines I'm talking about long block form.
pull the rod bearings and crank bearings inspect everything
I’d change it over to a roller cam, change the distributor to a roller one(it’ll have a hardened gear), just cut on the exhaust port of the heads. You can reach in and feel a bump in the port. Just grind that bump out and you’ll gain some hp. But if it’s junk I’d just buy a $300 junkyard 5.0
That's a good roller block, go to a wrecking yard and get the lifters ans spider and dog bones and put a roller cam in it.
I agree with you on the 20/50 I know most people do not but I was using Castrol 20/50 (May have been GTX?) in my 82 stang GT in Las Vegas in the late 80's and early 90's I had good oil pressure with it and the thicker or heavier oil seemed to withstand the heat better.
If you where going to put the time and money into restoring the car I would suggest a Coyote motor but your not so I would encourage you to upgrade to 351C or W I like the C better for performance applications?
I would check the rod and main bearings to make sure they weren't wiped by low oil pressure.
EDIT-I watched the next video.
It's FrankenMotor! I still would have gone with building a 352FE stroked out to a 390; which is what it originally came with... I have miss-matched years on engine parts which lead to more headaches :)
Here's one go to the junkyard or look up to see if sumone gas a old 5.0 car n motor which runs for sale n drop it in
Your there you should check the bearings it looks like it never had oil
the cam gear is held on with a bolt not a nut
After seeing how that engine was done I wouldnt trust ANY of the previous work... It looks like it was cobbled together by someone who shouldnt even do an oil change. Youd be better off with a junkyard motor than that one.
It’s been a long time since I’ve been in a H.O. Motor, but I think you could run a factory style roller cam in that block, it looks like it has the provisions for the lifter hold down or bracket, what ever it’s called, to bolt down in the valley and align the lifters.
I still say there is something about Anti freeze that it must get on your floor...
That is a Craigslist motor for sure, been there done that.
Oil pump has not run... Check the bearings! there is different oil in the filter... This thing has not had any oil pressure...
That thing that was on the freeze plug is a device that falls off when the engine is overheated to void the engine builders warranty. That engine was rebuilt at some point.
Yep some times a rebuild is not done right and getting a kit or having parts done at different shops can be costly later. I am guessig you had metal go through the bottom end and it all needs to be redone.
Solid coolant occurs when 2 different coolant types are mixed, it will clog around the waterpump and stops the circulation causing overheating and a breakdown.
Did the previous builder leave out the oil pump drive shaft? I didnt see it in the video.
first thing i noticed when it was apparent there was no oil pressure.
That’s still a roller block it’s got the bosses for the spider hold down.
Also I’d be scared to use that motor being someone who doesn’t know how to put a cam bolt in let alone a bottom end
Add a leaf to the left side spring, and call her Eilene.
If the cam gear fell off,, then the oil pump MIGHT have not even been working?? Some motors use the cam to drive the Distributor,, and the oil pump. hence the weird oil in the filter.
Do a 460 with a roller and a holy sniper with long tubes and x pipe 👌
My biggest concern is that the mains are fucked from. Spinning with no oil.
That weird looking freeze plug looks like one install from a reman engine. That little tag falls off if or turns a different color if it over heats.
There was a lot of bolts and nuts used in the eighties where some would be metric and some would be standard. It was a mess.
Surprises suck for sure. Good luck those galaxies are awesome.
time to find a cleveland!