Hey! The only thing you did was to oversaturate the fabric. When this happens there's a simple solution. Just heat up the wax on the fabric again and wipe it off with a paper towel. The paper towel will suck up the excess wax and you'll end up with the same result as the Fjällräven wax. We here in Sweden mostly use the Fjällräven wax but a lot of people are going over to the liquid ones too. I hope this helps you.
That sounds like a simple solution. I still think I get enough out of the wax from the fjallraven bar but maybe if I'm looking for a bit more waterproofing I'll try this again and use that method. Thanks for the tip.
Love waxed jackets as it gets rainy here but never cold enough to wear synthetic waterproofs without getting drenched from condensation inside the jacket. Waxed jackets keep the worst of the rain off without getting unbearably sweaty. Nice to see the comparison between this liquid wax and bar wax :) For the excess just heat and press a paper towel on top, cleans it right up!
Hey everyone. After I started filming this video I was pretty disappointed with how things went and I wasn't sure if I wanted to even make a video on it. But I figured you all might get some good information out of it even if it didn't work out the way I had hoped. I'm glad I was able to fix the jacket in the end and it's now waxed the way I like it. A little wasted time and money on the extra wax but all in all no harm no foul.
When applying the liquid wax, it is a good idea to have the garment preheated. This will allow the wax to immediately soak in, instead of drying on the surface. For my part, I treat my oilskin coat on a hot summers day, directly under the sun. I guess, you could also treat it with good results next to your house's boiler or close to a fireplace.
I did the same exact thing last month, but I used a bar of otterwax. Tried to melt it in and take excess off so many different times, still left those marks. I’m going to try the fjallraven wax next then
If you had a hotter blow dryer the fabric would have soaked in the wax much better after it begins to dry (a few hours after you have applied the wax) then you should brush the jacket with a bit of vigor (I use a boot brush) this gets off the excess wax I’ll brush it two or three times during the drying time which takes a day or two (carrhart jackets usually take three days and 4 rounds of brushing)
yeah, I'm not sure if I mention that I've seen most people use this method with a heat gun vs a blow dryer. Most of the time when I see otter wax used its on a carhartt vs fjallraven gear. I still have found the fjallraven wax to be the easier method. I'm also not trying to get a waterproof material. I'm just looking for that little extra weather resistance in a few areas so maybe that's why I have not found it worth the extra cost and time.
You can also heat up the Fjällräven wax au bain marie, works the same way. I think the "white stuff problem" is just because it's easy to put a lot on there when using warm wax and a brush
Use an iron to press it even after you paint it on ,hoss. Pretty simple. You made it more work. You also can do this with the bar if you melt it, paint it on the iron press it for a nice even finish
I wonder if the liquid wax is over saturating the fabric whereas the solid bar deposits a much thinner amount each time. I'm going to try this on my pants and see what happens. I do find that if I turn them inside out and tumble them in the dryer for a minute or two it helps to distribute the wax around more evenly.
That's exactly what I think is happening. If your going for super weather proof and water proof, the otter wax will do it. For my needs, I just want something still a bit breathable but some added moisture protection in some heavier snow. The extra work to use that otter wax just isn't worth it for my personal needs.
Watching what you are doing, your technique is okay, I realize Otto wax is the issue. For my oilskin coat, jacket and numerous hats, I use Outback Trading Co Duck Back Dressing. Heat it, it spreads and soaks in very easily. Barbour coats oilskin reproofing is used on Barbour oilskin jackets. Recall Barbour have been in existence since 1894 and well respected worldwide. Suggestion, use a reproof material designed for cotton fabric, not something for leather such as boots and the like.
I just did my 20 year old and never re oiled jaket with the Otter wax. I was in front of the wood stove and was using a hair dryer as well. I did get it to get into the fabric but it did take some elbow grease and heat and time and turned out Ok .Got some of the same residue from the wax but I just wiped it of with a clean rag. I am thinking that your previous coating is not letting it into the fabric. When I was looking online it was strongly suggested to use the same product that is on the jacket already. Thanks for your video.
The fjallraven gear comes impregnated with their wax so maybe your right about using what was used before. I know for sure it's effectively getting into the jacket because I can feel the wax. The otterwax is a good product if you want to get a really really deep wax and don't mind spending the time and energy. For me, I just want that semi water proof but still breathable jacket so it's not worth the hassle. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment 😀
Like @HaasGrotesk has said you have over saturated the fabric. Heat up the fabric and wipe off the excess, then use a nylon brush to clean up the seams. You applied way to much in the beginning. You also have to get the actual cotton fabric warmed up or it wont absorb the wax. If it is already treated, you have to be very sparing with the amount of wax, waxed cotton will not absorb more wax than it can hold. You are just touching up the outer surface in that case. How many times has it been retreated ? You are applying much less wax with a bar. The liquid is great for use on untreated canvas, its a lot quicker.
Yes that's what I found. The bar puts on less so it's easier to work with. I could just rub the bar on a spot a few times and I had the perfect amount of wax on there. The liquid was just more difficult, but certainly will work if that's the method someone wants to take.
Maybe its more the method than the wax. I guess if you would heat up the Greenland Wax and apply it with a brush you would have the same problem with oversaturating.
Warm the jacket a bit, dip a cloth in the melted wax then rub like crazy to get a thin even coating. With the white stuff just heat it with the hair dryer then rub all that excess with a clean cloth. You just put too much on with the brush
I am no expert but it looks like you applied too much of the melted wax on the surface of the fabric. I also think you did not use a hot enough heat gun.
Yeah. That was the experiment. Which one is easier and better to use. I personally find I can easily get the bar wax on easier with a better degree control. I can do multiple coatings where needed and leave other spots with just a little
I literally just did this with the same wax, and it’s not quite as easy as it seems. I bought a brush and brushed the wax on like paint, coating it well, then let it sit for a minute and used a heat gun to melt it into the canvas wiping excess wax with a paper towel as I went. Turned out well.
A heat gun helps a ton. But I still think getting the right amount of saturation is easier with the Greenland wax. I can do little or a lot depending on the area.
@@AbundantAdventures Probably so…seems the Otter Wax is quite thick and harder to spread evenly. I am happy with my results, but do like the results of the Filson wax on the Filson jacket better.
It's easily fixed. The wax comes out in a hot water wash. I did that and then used the fjallraven wax and it came out just fine at the end of the video.
Dude soaks hood in wax, then says it shouldnt bee like that. Just use less and do it step by step. You could have used some kitchen paper to remove the excess
You watch the entire video? I didn't soak it. Its a comparison video. Plenty of good suggestions in the comments on how to do this again that is more efficient or would fix the over application issues. Or I could just use the bar of fjallraven wax and not need to....
Heat gun would help I'm sure. But ultimately I found the bar wax to be easy and effective. I don't want to oversaturate the jacket since I still want it to be breathable. I don't use it as a waterproof layer for rain.
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Hey! The only thing you did was to oversaturate the fabric. When this happens there's a simple solution. Just heat up the wax on the fabric again and wipe it off with a paper towel. The paper towel will suck up the excess wax and you'll end up with the same result as the Fjällräven wax. We here in Sweden mostly use the Fjällräven wax but a lot of people are going over to the liquid ones too. I hope this helps you.
That sounds like a simple solution. I still think I get enough out of the wax from the fjallraven bar but maybe if I'm looking for a bit more waterproofing I'll try this again and use that method. Thanks for the tip.
Love waxed jackets as it gets rainy here but never cold enough to wear synthetic waterproofs without getting drenched from condensation inside the jacket. Waxed jackets keep the worst of the rain off without getting unbearably sweaty. Nice to see the comparison between this liquid wax and bar wax :) For the excess just heat and press a paper towel on top, cleans it right up!
Waxed jackets are great for those situations where you want some but not all protection from rain. Good middle ground that can do it all.
Thanks for this demonstration. Was very helpful.
glad it was helpful :)
Hey everyone. After I started filming this video I was pretty disappointed with how things went and I wasn't sure if I wanted to even make a video on it. But I figured you all might get some good information out of it even if it didn't work out the way I had hoped.
I'm glad I was able to fix the jacket in the end and it's now waxed the way I like it. A little wasted time and money on the extra wax but all in all no harm no foul.
Thanks, good info for us who haven't tried it yet
When applying the liquid wax, it is a good idea to have the garment preheated. This will allow the wax to immediately soak in, instead of drying on the surface. For my part, I treat my oilskin coat on a hot summers day, directly under the sun. I guess, you could also treat it with good results next to your house's boiler or close to a fireplace.
I bet that hood and shoulders were well water resistant! Might stick to the FJ Wax bar with mine and the snowboard iron :)
Yeah shoulders and hood I like to be really weather proof but the rest I like more breathability.
I did the same exact thing last month, but I used a bar of otterwax. Tried to melt it in and take excess off so many different times, still left those marks. I’m going to try the fjallraven wax next then
I'm sticking with the fjallraven wax, but others have found success with the otter.
If you had a hotter blow dryer the fabric would have soaked in the wax much better after it begins to dry (a few hours after you have applied the wax) then you should brush the jacket with a bit of vigor (I use a boot brush) this gets off the excess wax I’ll brush it two or three times during the drying time which takes a day or two (carrhart jackets usually take three days and 4 rounds of brushing)
yeah, I'm not sure if I mention that I've seen most people use this method with a heat gun vs a blow dryer. Most of the time when I see otter wax used its on a carhartt vs fjallraven gear. I still have found the fjallraven wax to be the easier method. I'm also not trying to get a waterproof material. I'm just looking for that little extra weather resistance in a few areas so maybe that's why I have not found it worth the extra cost and time.
I had this same problem but once my blow dryer accumulates heat the wax absorbs better and looks fine
You can also heat up the Fjällräven wax au bain marie, works the same way. I think the "white stuff problem" is just because it's easy to put a lot on there when using warm wax and a brush
Yes that's pretty much what it was. Super tough to put just a little on there.
Woo buddy!
Use an iron to press it even after you paint it on ,hoss. Pretty simple. You made it more work. You also can do this with the bar if you melt it, paint it on the iron press it for a nice even finish
I use a heat gun on the low setting. Helps with the melting
I wonder if the liquid wax is over saturating the fabric whereas the solid bar deposits a much thinner amount each time. I'm going to try this on my pants and see what happens. I do find that if I turn them inside out and tumble them in the dryer for a minute or two it helps to distribute the wax around more evenly.
That's exactly what I think is happening. If your going for super weather proof and water proof, the otter wax will do it. For my needs, I just want something still a bit breathable but some added moisture protection in some heavier snow.
The extra work to use that otter wax just isn't worth it for my personal needs.
Watching what you are doing, your technique is okay, I realize Otto wax is the issue. For my oilskin coat, jacket and numerous hats, I use Outback Trading Co Duck Back Dressing. Heat it, it spreads and soaks in very easily. Barbour coats oilskin reproofing is used on Barbour oilskin jackets. Recall Barbour have been in existence since 1894 and well respected worldwide. Suggestion, use a reproof material designed for cotton fabric, not something for leather such as boots and the like.
Thanks for letting me know. I'll have to look into some other options when I try something new again.
😂 I waxed three pair of Fjallraven pants with their wax while I listen to you suffer,sorry man!
Too soon! Hahahaha
I just did my 20 year old and never re oiled jaket with the Otter wax. I was in front of the wood stove and was using a hair dryer as well. I did get it to get into the fabric but it did take some elbow grease and heat and time and turned out Ok .Got some of the same residue from the wax but I just wiped it of with a clean rag. I am thinking that your previous coating is not letting it into the fabric. When I was looking online it was strongly suggested to use the same product that is on the jacket already. Thanks for your video.
The fjallraven gear comes impregnated with their wax so maybe your right about using what was used before.
I know for sure it's effectively getting into the jacket because I can feel the wax.
The otterwax is a good product if you want to get a really really deep wax and don't mind spending the time and energy.
For me, I just want that semi water proof but still breathable jacket so it's not worth the hassle.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment 😀
Works best for me doing multiple thin layers
Me too. That's why I found the bar easier than the paste. The bar is more controllable for thinner applications.
Anyone try dust a clothes dryer instead of heatgun or hair dryer??
Yes. I put my waxed garments inside out in the dryer on a high heat for 5 to 10 minutes. Works just fine.
That was my secret. I cooked it good and it works great that way.
Like @HaasGrotesk has said you have over saturated the fabric. Heat up the fabric and wipe off the excess, then use a nylon brush to clean up the seams. You applied way to much in the beginning. You also have to get the actual cotton fabric warmed up or it wont absorb the wax. If it is already treated, you have to be very sparing with the amount of wax, waxed cotton will not absorb more wax than it can hold. You are just touching up the outer surface in that case. How many times has it been retreated ? You are applying much less wax with a bar. The liquid is great for use on untreated canvas, its a lot quicker.
Yes that's what I found. The bar puts on less so it's easier to work with. I could just rub the bar on a spot a few times and I had the perfect amount of wax on there. The liquid was just more difficult, but certainly will work if that's the method someone wants to take.
You can use a crockpot to safely melt wax.
thanks for the tip
Heat the whole Jacket in your oven by 120°F, or hang it in the sun when its hot outside, then wax it with warm fjällräven bar.
I like that idea! 120 in the oven. I might have to do that this next time around.
Go Ben!
Haha the boys love getting in the videos.
Maybe its more the method than the wax. I guess if you would heat up the Greenland Wax and apply it with a brush you would have the same problem with oversaturating.
Yeah. That was my thinking too. I wanted to try an easier application method but ultimately found the bar of fjallraven wax to be the easier method.
Did you try ironing it?
No, but I do know that method works fine too. Although make sure your wife is ok with wax getting on the iron.
👌NICE to know knowledge. ✅
Thanks for watching
Warm the jacket a bit, dip a cloth in the melted wax then rub like crazy to get a thin even coating. With the white stuff just heat it with the hair dryer then rub all that excess with a clean cloth.
You just put too much on with the brush
Thanks for the advise.
U can buy heat guns for much cheaper than blowdryers
But my wife doesn't need a heat gun for her hair 😉 hahaha
I am no expert but it looks like you applied too much of the melted wax on the surface of the fabric. I also think you did not use a hot enough heat gun.
Yeah. That was the experiment. Which one is easier and better to use. I personally find I can easily get the bar wax on easier with a better degree control. I can do multiple coatings where needed and leave other spots with just a little
Use an iron on low....works like a charm
I literally just did this with the same wax, and it’s not quite as easy as it seems. I bought a brush and brushed the wax on like paint, coating it well, then let it sit for a minute and used a heat gun to melt it into the canvas wiping excess wax with a paper towel as I went. Turned out well.
A heat gun helps a ton. But I still think getting the right amount of saturation is easier with the Greenland wax. I can do little or a lot depending on the area.
@@AbundantAdventures Probably so…seems the Otter Wax is quite thick and harder to spread evenly. I am happy with my results, but do like the results of the Filson wax on the Filson jacket better.
Ahh man it doesn’t look great hope you haven’t ruined a £500 jacket!!
It's easily fixed. The wax comes out in a hot water wash. I did that and then used the fjallraven wax and it came out just fine at the end of the video.
Dude soaks hood in wax, then says it shouldnt bee like that. Just use less and do it step by step. You could have used some kitchen paper to remove the excess
You watch the entire video? I didn't soak it. Its a comparison video. Plenty of good suggestions in the comments on how to do this again that is more efficient or would fix the over application issues.
Or I could just use the bar of fjallraven wax and not need to....
The Fjallraven wax is BS, you need to get the Barbour wax.
Hmm. Haven't tried Barbour yet.
too much wax an too cruddy of a blow drier. use a heat gun
Heat gun would help I'm sure. But ultimately I found the bar wax to be easy and effective. I don't want to oversaturate the jacket since I still want it to be breathable. I don't use it as a waterproof layer for rain.