Don't forget that not only is the speaker location important, but also the install technique! There's much more to this than just bolting the speaker in! We have a full video about the proper install methods here - th-cam.com/video/jPNy_Adb2vU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=i_FCpNn6PSO8qWWz Thank you all for watching! - Mark
i watched many of your videos but still i cent do it by my self without guides i don't know, we hear sound in center But there is no quality sound and I bought the almost the best alpine products on the market i dont know what to do maybe if we connect on WhatsApp video call or something you can see and help me i don't know :
This video couldn't have come at a better time. I've just recently dealt with Hertz 3.5" coaxial dash speakers with bass blockers that were FAR too bright in my Ram 1500 truck. I have a 4 channel amp putting out 45W rms to front Hertz 6.5 woofers, and rear Hertz 6x9 coaxials to the doors, and the factory head unit powering the dashes. I hoped that raising the gain on the door speakers via the amp would account for the brightness of the dashes, but I was wrong. I considered using a 2 way passive crossover, but unfortunately those are intended for a woofer and tweeter combination, so the crossover point would be too high for the 3.5 midrange speaker. I found 3 way passive crossovers exist, but without a way for me to split the 3.5s' tweeters and midranges, that wouldn't work either. After some research I setup an L-Pad network to attenuate the dashes -6db by adding resistors in line with the speaker wires. This has now mostly resolved my issues. For a make-shift "3-way" front setup using a passive crossover network, and not wanting to spend money on a 6-channel amp and DSP, I think I did okay. Let me know what you think. Thanks for all your videos, they've definitely inspired me to take on this project.
Personally I would have powered the front doors and 3.5s off the amp and left the rear doors on factory power, you hear the least amount of information from the rear doors so allot of people just leave factory speakers there anyways.
@@goyslop4289 I have read this a lot actually. I just feel like I need a rear presence to balance the listening for me. If I have next to no sound out the back speakers, they start sounding weird to me, and then if I crank the volume, I'd be worried about distorting the rears. I also figured the RMS of the door speakers, front and back require more power, where as the dash speakers notoriously require less. As far as I've heard thus far, my 3.5s aren't distorting due to a lack of power. Thanks!
You keep the knowledge dropping Sir! Thanks and cheers. How much does your “shop” or work run per hour? You appear to be one of more serious and technical people than I am normally used to seeing. I would appreciate having some sort of shop that does work as quality as you display.
The doors being known as suboptimal location but I honestly love the midbass my doors give me in my install. Performance is solid, there are some cancellations of course but at least it looks stock. Used focal flax 16.5 you have in your hands in the beggining of the video. Tons of BAM material everywhere, on the outer and inner panels, the thick ass aluminium mounting ring from musway and then the speaker, thing is solid.
every car i work on has so many different options and limitations for speakers. there are only a few in which i was pretty happy with the outcome if it didnt need much or any DSP in order to enjoy it. personally i would DSP an alarm clock if i could because i prefer that level of control lolol.
Mark, Would love to see a video with adding in video components for movies or game consoles. Still need proper audio, with wiring. I have been watching for many years and think this would be helpful for additional content. Ben
Have you ever worked on a 5th Toyota 4Runner? Cuz boy would I love to pick your brain on how to make it studio quality! I've toyed with the idea of simply going the route of what OEM AUDIO+ has to offer but have been hesitant. I would love your feed back good sir!
Newer BMWs have the under-seat 8” subs which with a dsp can be changed to play midbass frequencies. Just add a custom fiberglass subwoofer enclosure for a 10” in the trunk driver’s side pocket. For a better front stage I want to install a 3-4” mid and tweeter in the A pillar so it’s on axis and wiring would be easy to wire for an active xover to all the locations with component amplifiers with built in dsp. I wonder if anyone has done a 5.1.4 Atmos speaker setup in a car.
@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fv what are you talking about ?! Lol. There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with a fiberglass subwoofer enclosure if it is designed and built properly. Dunno who told you that...but they lied to you...or don't know what they are doing
Recently i've managed to lay my hand on a top of the line focal utopia m drivers at a huge discount. Those are marvelous at a midrange, and way better off axis than most of 6,5" speakers i ever had... But this is exactly the point why they are not the best match for my car. As it turns out, my leg is in the way:) speaker position is way down on the door and depending on where i put by leg sound changes. It is such a waste of potential of those speakers. also high central console mess with standing waves, creating a dip arround 800hz. If i'd redone my setup from the scratch today, i'd rather go with 3-way system with custom a-pillars location for midrange, spend more money on decent midrange so i could tune crossover point lower to avoid those issues
@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fvas i mentioned - legs are often in the way. my own leg, and also passenger. Legs don't mess with bass but anything abobe 800-1000hz.... shifts?
The speaker location on the door panel for 1st Gen Siennas is awful. It’s buried beneath the seat and is blocked a good amount while the door is closed.
That's the worst! Thankfully OEM's seem to be trending more towards better locations, although there are still some oddballs out there. Thanks for watching!
@@CarAudioFabricationGood morning, I'm from Brazil, I don't miss a video of yours. There would be no way for you to put subtitles in Portuguese in the videos, thank you
REF 6530cx Description: 6-1/2" (160mm) component speaker system Power Handling: 90W RMS, 270W peak Sensitivity (@ 2.83V): 93dB Frequency Response: 53Hz - 21kHz Impedance: 3.0 ohms - this speaker 3 ohm, can you suggest matched car stereo for this speaker.
Pioneer makes one the best adapted for the cars the speaker holds 3 Phillips head triangle speaker frame raised up cover completely pushes over the speaker made in black and stainless steel
I have a 300. 3.5" in the dash and rear doors. 6x9 in the front door and rear deck. Should i put tweeters in the dash in place of the 3.5" or rear door? Or just stay with 3.5"?
use either a 3" wideband in the dash or put a 3" in the dash and a tweeter in the pillar. works very well. I personally don't bother with rear door stuff, but I also don't have people in the sitting back there.
How about a video explaining how to upgrade the car’s electric supply.I have not been able to find much information on how to convert from lead acid to lithium ion.what alternator and battery management. I want more power without adding weight..
I have a 01 buick lesabre, rear deck has a pair of 6x9 and a pair of 6.5,front doors have a 6.5 and 1 inch tweeter, all kicker ks speakers,however even with 31band eq i still cant remove the painfully crispy ss sh or tch sounds,im thinking about replacing the 1 inch tweeters with something like 3 inch mids in the top of the dash since i removed the dash pad, common buick issue, what would be the best position for the dash??
Some of the systems available right from the factory are pretty impressive today. Have you had a chance to hear the McIntosh system that’s available in the new Jeep Grand Cherokees? It’s pretty impressive.
I don't know if I would go as far as saying impressive, but they are getting marginally more acceptable. At the end of the day they still make the systems as cheaply as they possibly can, as light as they possibly can, and with as little electrical drain as they possibly can. I have, I wasn't impressed personally.
Well put...if I wanted the system in question I would skip the Jeepupcharges and just pay a proper installer to do the quality that McIntosh deserves.@@CarAudioFabrication
It's so funny when people think bose or Harman kardon or Macintosh ECT are high end... Pull that door panel down and take a look at that driver. More than likely paper cone pos. Then they roll off when you go over a certain volume and sound even worse!
Just traded my car in for something that has a factory center speaker location. I've figured out how I want to handle the rear satellite 3.5" speakers but adding the center speaker to my 5 channel amp is posing the most concerns. What options can I explore for adding the center channel? I've seen summing my front left and right as an option but I don't how the watts are distributed or if I'll see a different in impedance. JL RD900/5 amp for reference and all aftermarket speakers (50w rms speakers, running 2 per channel for the rear for a 2ohm load, I'd like 2ohm for the front to optimize rms load). I've also considered two speakers for the center but spacing obviously becomes my next issue.
So I replaced the crappy bose dash speakers in my trailblazer with some nice infinity coaxials. What I overlooked is that these things fire up from the dash and reflect off the windshield and makes the soundstage blobby as hell. Im not sure what to do, Im going to try and get an angled ring on them so theyre firing more into the cabin and not off the windshield. Any other ideas?
I felt missing some valuable information here: 1. Door location acoustics for midbass which can be terrible on the driver seat. The sides will perform very asymmetric which causes innaccuracy and unbalanced sound. This is also a lot to play with the driver parameters how they perform. 2. Dash locations for midranges firing up can be used as advantage but they need to very be close to the windshield in proper angle to give there best. 3. Especially midbass parameters for selected application (door, infinite baffle, sealed, ported) play a huge role. 4. Door damping and inforcing is vital, espacially the inner skin which holds the driver. I have experienced a huge problem with a plastic sealed inner skin but the driver (should be suitable by the parameters) doesn't work at all even I made a whole new solid installation from plywood. The innerskin flexes a bit so that might be the quilty one so the driver can't give the kick properly. The cone moves but it doesn't give much attack.
@@CarAudioFabrication Its easy to pick holes in someone's work but as a content maker you need to appeal to a wide base or you just wouldn't get many views. Most people having a go at upgrading the stereo system in their cars are probably not going to be interested in spending 10 to 20 thousand and then driving a car round in bits for months on end so easy upgrades are great for some but not all.
I have a 2021 Bronco with the SSV speaker pods and 6.5" Kicker CS speakers. I am getting some rattling/ vibration with music that has some bass. What would you do to eliminate? Thanks!
I simply bolted in some Kenwood concert 6.5"'s in and they sound incredible. I cannot find the difference between the concert and power versions (aside from price).
No, the reason we as installers don't generally care for them is still to this day many vehicles come with a 6x9" midbass in the door and a 3.5 in the dash. Nobody makes a high end set up really to replace them, so we generally do a 6.5 with a speaker adapter. Yes I'm aware Focal, Morel and others make a 6x9" component set but it's not their top of the line set.
The only real difference is oval speakers like 6x8s provide more cone area for improved bass response. Round speakers tend to offer more mounting options for aiming especially in custom setups.
@CarAudioFabrication hey what the chance you can help me fix my sound on my car i have alpine dps, alpine component an other amplifier of alpine i had to 4-5 different Professionals in the field of audio systems paid money and they just dont know how to work on this system i want to learn it by my self you can help me with that?
I'd say zero chance. Lol. What is the issue? Don't think anyone you took your car too is a professional. Bc a professional would be able to at least pinpoint the problem if it has something to do with the equipment or installation. It's not rocket science
Climate control gets priority over sound staging by default. Just swap your door speakers for your dash vents. Shoot air on your legs and sound at your face!
I swapped the radio with the climate control for my fox body mustang....but yeah...the rear speaker placement SUCKS for my 89 convertible...debating on whether to customize a complete different panel...but also didn't want to not make it TOO different from original....
Yeah don't listen to that guy... I'm not sure how someone could possibly say a three-way setup done right is better for music lol. You literally have a dedicated speaker to play the frequencies they are meant to. Check out morel. Hertz Audison or focal. Better be ready to spend some money though... Gotta pay to play! Morel elate 3 way. 9in midbass in the door or 6.5... midrange and tweeter... Then do a 2 6 channel amplifiers.. Something like JL xd600/6 per door... 200 watts a driver... Then a helix processor... And whatever sub you want. Make sure you go to a shop that actual professionals work at. Tuning a system correctly is imperative. You can have a $10,000 setup and if you don't have a DSP or it's not properly tuned, you can take mid-range equipment with a DSP and a good tune and put it to shame.
@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fv The problem with 2 way is that in most cars will put a 5 or 6 inch woofer in the lower part of the door then have the tweeter up high which sounds rubbish as the soundstage will be pulled down low due to woofers low mounting position. In most vehicles it is very hard to get a 5 or even a 6 inch woofer near the top of the dash and even if you did the next hurdle, you would not get much output below 100 hz due to cabin gain. The solution is to use a 3 way set and keep the woofer low down and then have the 3 inch mid and tweeter up on the dash as you will be able to play from 200 - 250 hz upwards.
Hmmm.. sounds traveling @1,100 ft/ sec?.. bouncing sound waves off of glass..then we claim to have a system that has staging and an image?..the amazing magic of car audio brands still defying the laws of physics 😊
![[ TEASER ] เงาะป่า - วงL.กฮ. | TMG RECORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M4ObdFfcPww/mqdefault.jpg)
Don't forget that not only is the speaker location important, but also the install technique! There's much more to this than just bolting the speaker in!
We have a full video about the proper install methods here - th-cam.com/video/jPNy_Adb2vU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=i_FCpNn6PSO8qWWz
Thank you all for watching!
- Mark
i watched many of your videos but still i cent do it by my self without guides
i don't know, we hear sound in center But there is no quality sound and I bought the almost the best alpine products on the market i dont know what to do maybe if we connect on WhatsApp video call or something you can see and help me i don't know :
Great topic, being in the "audio" business (years ago) ~ this was critical then and now of course, thanks.
@@sms9106 need help wiring audio in 2002 mercury sable i don’t know where to find in and out b wires for amp
@5:28 yeah thats why the popular mod is to put a resistor or remove the center dash speaker on the Pontiac g8s
This video couldn't have come at a better time. I've just recently dealt with Hertz 3.5" coaxial dash speakers with bass blockers that were FAR too bright in my Ram 1500 truck. I have a 4 channel amp putting out 45W rms to front Hertz 6.5 woofers, and rear Hertz 6x9 coaxials to the doors, and the factory head unit powering the dashes. I hoped that raising the gain on the door speakers via the amp would account for the brightness of the dashes, but I was wrong. I considered using a 2 way passive crossover, but unfortunately those are intended for a woofer and tweeter combination, so the crossover point would be too high for the 3.5 midrange speaker. I found 3 way passive crossovers exist, but without a way for me to split the 3.5s' tweeters and midranges, that wouldn't work either. After some research I setup an L-Pad network to attenuate the dashes -6db by adding resistors in line with the speaker wires. This has now mostly resolved my issues. For a make-shift "3-way" front setup using a passive crossover network, and not wanting to spend money on a 6-channel amp and DSP, I think I did okay. Let me know what you think. Thanks for all your videos, they've definitely inspired me to take on this project.
Personally I would have powered the front doors and 3.5s off the amp and left the rear doors on factory power, you hear the least amount of information from the rear doors so allot of people just leave factory speakers there anyways.
@@goyslop4289 I have read this a lot actually. I just feel like I need a rear presence to balance the listening for me. If I have next to no sound out the back speakers, they start sounding weird to me, and then if I crank the volume, I'd be worried about distorting the rears. I also figured the RMS of the door speakers, front and back require more power, where as the dash speakers notoriously require less. As far as I've heard thus far, my 3.5s aren't distorting due to a lack of power. Thanks!
ahh you left out the center console! Ive created a very nice front stage bass output in my center console. still great video as usual.
@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fv bare in mind, mine is far forward under the center of the dash
You keep the knowledge dropping Sir! Thanks and cheers. How much does your “shop” or work run per hour? You appear to be one of more serious and technical people than I am normally used to seeing. I would appreciate having some sort of shop that does work as quality as you display.
The doors being known as suboptimal location but I honestly love the midbass my doors give me in my install. Performance is solid, there are some cancellations of course but at least it looks stock. Used focal flax 16.5 you have in your hands in the beggining of the video. Tons of BAM material everywhere, on the outer and inner panels, the thick ass aluminium mounting ring from musway and then the speaker, thing is solid.
join in learning the new master's liking and support
every car i work on has so many different options and limitations for speakers. there are only a few in which i was pretty happy with the outcome if it didnt need much or any DSP in order to enjoy it. personally i would DSP an alarm clock if i could because i prefer that level of control lolol.
Mark,
Would love to see a video with adding in video components for movies or game consoles. Still need proper audio, with wiring. I have been watching for many years and think this would be helpful for additional content.
Ben
Have you ever worked on a 5th Toyota 4Runner? Cuz boy would I love to pick your brain on how to make it studio quality!
I've toyed with the idea of simply going the route of what OEM AUDIO+ has to offer but have been hesitant.
I would love your feed back good sir!
Newer BMWs have the under-seat 8” subs which with a dsp can be changed to play midbass frequencies. Just add a custom fiberglass subwoofer enclosure for a 10” in the trunk driver’s side pocket. For a better front stage I want to install a 3-4” mid and tweeter in the A pillar so it’s on axis and wiring would be easy to wire for an active xover to all the locations with component amplifiers with built in dsp. I wonder if anyone has done a 5.1.4 Atmos speaker setup in a car.
What about mounting speakers overhead?
Building a fiberglass subwoofer box. Will adding a sound deadener to the inside help durability or sound ?? Thank you for your time..
@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fv what are you talking about ?! Lol. There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with a fiberglass subwoofer enclosure if it is designed and built properly. Dunno who told you that...but they lied to you...or don't know what they are doing
Recently i've managed to lay my hand on a top of the line focal utopia m drivers at a huge discount. Those are marvelous at a midrange, and way better off axis than most of 6,5" speakers i ever had... But this is exactly the point why they are not the best match for my car. As it turns out, my leg is in the way:) speaker position is way down on the door and depending on where i put by leg sound changes. It is such a waste of potential of those speakers. also high central console mess with standing waves, creating a dip arround 800hz.
If i'd redone my setup from the scratch today, i'd rather go with 3-way system with custom a-pillars location for midrange, spend more money on decent midrange so i could tune crossover point lower to avoid those issues
@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fvas i mentioned - legs are often in the way. my own leg, and also passenger. Legs don't mess with bass but anything abobe 800-1000hz.... shifts?
Gmc Sierra door speakers are hard to hear due to being at the floor in door
Very true!
The speaker location on the door panel for 1st Gen Siennas is awful. It’s buried beneath the seat and is blocked a good amount while the door is closed.
That's the worst! Thankfully OEM's seem to be trending more towards better locations, although there are still some oddballs out there.
Thanks for watching!
Maybe don't own a sienna
@@CarAudioFabricationGood morning, I'm from Brazil, I don't miss a video of yours. There would be no way for you to put subtitles in Portuguese in the videos, thank you
@@CarAudioFabrication Absolutely. Haha There’s plenty of newer models with great locations for sure.
Jeep Grand Cherokee dash mounted tweeters facing the windshield are pretty horrible
REF 6530cx Description: 6-1/2" (160mm) component speaker system Power Handling: 90W RMS, 270W peak Sensitivity (@ 2.83V): 93dB Frequency Response: 53Hz - 21kHz Impedance: 3.0 ohms - this speaker 3 ohm, can you suggest matched car stereo for this speaker.
Pioneer makes one the best adapted for the cars the speaker holds 3 Phillips head triangle speaker frame raised up cover completely pushes over the speaker made in black and stainless steel
I have a 300. 3.5" in the dash and rear doors. 6x9 in the front door and rear deck. Should i put tweeters in the dash in place of the 3.5" or rear door? Or just stay with 3.5"?
use either a 3" wideband in the dash or put a 3" in the dash and a tweeter in the pillar. works very well. I personally don't bother with rear door stuff, but I also don't have people in the sitting back there.
How about a video explaining how to upgrade the car’s electric supply.I have not been able to find much information on how to convert from lead acid to lithium ion.what alternator and battery management. I want more power without adding weight..
What's your opinion on having a 3-way kit + a 2-way kit in the front doors and a 3-way kit in the rear doors?
What about woofers under the front seat? Is the frequency range of woofers non-directional?
I have a 01 buick lesabre, rear deck has a pair of 6x9 and a pair of 6.5,front doors have a 6.5 and 1 inch tweeter, all kicker ks speakers,however even with 31band eq i still cant remove the painfully crispy ss sh or tch sounds,im thinking about replacing the 1 inch tweeters with something like 3 inch mids in the top of the dash since i removed the dash pad, common buick issue, what would be the best position for the dash??
Are AMT tweeters prone to get damaged in summer heat like 50 deg celsius and in car temps can go much higher?
Some of the systems available right from the factory are pretty impressive today.
Have you had a chance to hear the McIntosh system that’s available in the new Jeep Grand Cherokees?
It’s pretty impressive.
I don't know if I would go as far as saying impressive, but they are getting marginally more acceptable. At the end of the day they still make the systems as cheaply as they possibly can, as light as they possibly can, and with as little electrical drain as they possibly can.
I have, I wasn't impressed personally.
@@CarAudioFabrication Of course nothing beats a custom installed aftermarket system 👍
Well put...if I wanted the system in question I would skip the Jeepupcharges and just pay a proper installer to do the quality that McIntosh deserves.@@CarAudioFabrication
It's so funny when people think bose or Harman kardon or Macintosh ECT are high end... Pull that door panel down and take a look at that driver. More than likely paper cone pos. Then they roll off when you go over a certain volume and sound even worse!
Just traded my car in for something that has a factory center speaker location. I've figured out how I want to handle the rear satellite 3.5" speakers but adding the center speaker to my 5 channel amp is posing the most concerns. What options can I explore for adding the center channel? I've seen summing my front left and right as an option but I don't how the watts are distributed or if I'll see a different in impedance. JL RD900/5 amp for reference and all aftermarket speakers (50w rms speakers, running 2 per channel for the rear for a 2ohm load, I'd like 2ohm for the front to optimize rms load). I've also considered two speakers for the center but spacing obviously becomes my next issue.
So I replaced the crappy bose dash speakers in my trailblazer with some nice infinity coaxials. What I overlooked is that these things fire up from the dash and reflect off the windshield and makes the soundstage blobby as hell. Im not sure what to do, Im going to try and get an angled ring on them so theyre firing more into the cabin and not off the windshield. Any other ideas?
I felt missing some valuable information here:
1. Door location acoustics for midbass which can be terrible on the driver seat. The sides will perform very asymmetric which causes innaccuracy and unbalanced sound. This is also a lot to play with the driver parameters how they perform.
2. Dash locations for midranges firing up can be used as advantage but they need to very be close to the windshield in proper angle to give there best.
3. Especially midbass parameters for selected application (door, infinite baffle, sealed, ported) play a huge role.
4. Door damping and inforcing is vital, espacially the inner skin which holds the driver. I have experienced a huge problem with a plastic sealed inner skin but the driver (should be suitable by the parameters) doesn't work at all even I made a whole new solid installation from plywood. The innerskin flexes a bit so that might be the quilty one so the driver can't give the kick properly. The cone moves but it doesn't give much attack.
I can't possibly put every last bit of information on this topic in a single video. It would be 5 hours long and no one would watch it.
@@CarAudioFabrication Its easy to pick holes in someone's work but as a content maker you need to appeal to a wide base or you just wouldn't get many views. Most people having a go at upgrading the stereo system in their cars are probably not going to be interested in spending 10 to 20 thousand and then driving a car round in bits for months on end so easy upgrades are great for some but not all.
I have a 2021 Bronco with the SSV speaker pods and 6.5" Kicker CS speakers. I am getting some rattling/ vibration with music that has some bass. What would you do to eliminate? Thanks!
I need my adapters to put my speakers back on axis.
I simply bolted in some Kenwood concert 6.5"'s in and they sound incredible.
I cannot find the difference between the concert and power versions (aside from price).
Does speaker shape affect spund quality like a round one vs like 6x8
not really
No, the reason we as installers don't generally care for them is still to this day many vehicles come with a 6x9" midbass in the door and a 3.5 in the dash. Nobody makes a high end set up really to replace them, so we generally do a 6.5 with a speaker adapter. Yes I'm aware Focal, Morel and others make a 6x9" component set but it's not their top of the line set.
@@melissathompson7229 it's getting better, the market is providing better by 9s these days
The only real difference is oval speakers like 6x8s provide more cone area for improved bass response. Round speakers tend to offer more mounting options for aiming especially in custom setups.
@CarAudioFabrication
hey what the chance you can help me fix my sound on my car i have alpine dps, alpine component an other amplifier of alpine i had to 4-5 different Professionals in the field of audio systems paid money and they just dont know how to work on this system i want to learn it by my self you can help me with that?
I'd say zero chance. Lol. What is the issue? Don't think anyone you took your car too is a professional. Bc a professional would be able to at least pinpoint the problem if it has something to do with the equipment or installation. It's not rocket science
Climate control gets priority over sound staging by default. Just swap your door speakers for your dash vents. Shoot air on your legs and sound at your face!
😆😆😆 Can it be done in 30 minutes or less? Asks the customer
@@bkrgls 😂
I swapped the radio with the climate control for my fox body mustang....but yeah...the rear speaker placement SUCKS for my 89 convertible...debating on whether to customize a complete different panel...but also didn't want to not make it TOO different from original....
What type of ts parameters should we look for when going 2 or 3 way
@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fv check out my 3 way system I just posted video
Yeah don't listen to that guy... I'm not sure how someone could possibly say a three-way setup done right is better for music lol. You literally have a dedicated speaker to play the frequencies they are meant to. Check out morel. Hertz Audison or focal. Better be ready to spend some money though... Gotta pay to play! Morel elate 3 way. 9in midbass in the door or 6.5... midrange and tweeter... Then do a 2 6 channel amplifiers.. Something like JL xd600/6 per door... 200 watts a driver... Then a helix processor... And whatever sub you want. Make sure you go to a shop that actual professionals work at. Tuning a system correctly is imperative. You can have a $10,000 setup and if you don't have a DSP or it's not properly tuned, you can take mid-range equipment with a DSP and a good tune and put it to shame.
@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fv The problem with 2 way is that in most cars will put a 5 or 6 inch woofer in the lower part of the door then have the tweeter up high which sounds rubbish as the soundstage will be pulled down low due to woofers low mounting position. In most vehicles it is very hard to get a 5 or even a 6 inch woofer near the top of the dash and even if you did the next hurdle, you would not get much output below 100 hz due to cabin gain. The solution is to use a 3 way set and keep the woofer low down and then have the 3 inch mid and tweeter up on the dash as you will be able to play from 200 - 250 hz upwards.
I never seem to own a car that they make kick pods or window A pillar pods for 😢
Location can make an average speaker sound great, and a great speaker sound average.
IMHO, kick pannels are a dumb idea for speakers location, unless that by "speakers" you mean a small subwoofer in passenger side...
Hmmm.. sounds traveling @1,100 ft/ sec?.. bouncing sound waves off of glass..then we claim to have a system that has staging and an image?..the amazing magic of car audio brands still defying the laws of physics 😊
Sound waves do travel at ~1100 Feet per seconds, using the glass to reflect sound does have advantages.
Beyond mad amazing,I love car audio so damn much😭😂🤗😊😎💯🔥☝️