The EEL 12V Battery Case. I could not find anything negative. First ever 🐸🐸🐸🐸🐸?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Usually, I'm not particular excited when it comes to testing 12V batteries or battery cases. I had really no expectations about this EEL 12V DIY Battery Kit. It comes in a nice black/orange metal case, a 200A JK-BMS, flexible busbars, balance-PCB and compression plate. Wait, what??? Yeah, all features we usually see in the bigger 48V battery cases, right?
I was very positively surprised when checking out this EEL DIY Battery Case.
What do you think, do we have our first ever 5 out of 5 frog review?
More info about the EEL 12V/24V DIY Battery Case Kit and a discount code as well:
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200A JK-BMS used in this battery:
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QSO EVE MB30 and MB31 test and review. Best battery cells on the market right now: • Brand-new EVE MB30 and...
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EVE LF304 with welded studs. Pushing 230A through a tiny terminal?
• EVE LF304 with welded ...
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That looks really good, it's nice when companies learn and react to problems =)
We missed you at Intersolar in Munich.
Maybe someone here can “have mercy” and organize Andy’s flight to Munich next time, that would be just amazing 😃
Just had a bad experience with eel. I ordered the 12v box more or less after I saw Andy's video because i've got 4 cells in a wooden box and the battery case would be nice. I did not received any order confirmation and no resonses to my mails. Payed via PayPal. Last Week I set a deadline to get back to me or I would have to open a case at paypal. Today I received an empty package.
Am I the only one who had this happend with EEL?
Clean and efficient design. Worthy of five frogs 👍
Great!
@@OffGridGarageAustralia The nuisance is that the box doesn t work with the double hole studs from EVE .......
Furthermore the BMS is not the HC-version. And there might be no space along the cells to install a heating element, just at the bottom i suppose. So for mobile applications in cold regions its not my first choice.
Thats the reason why i am going to build a 12V-box by myself ..... EEL is ok with the 48V boxes.
Hard to find a heating element not getting warmer than 50 degrees celsius. Sunfunkits from Louisana seems to have one but shipping to europe is very expensive.
So i found by accident a solution with beehive mats.....
@@mandimandi2523 Are you able to share your solution? Cheers
@@cyclemoto8744 i built some LFP batteries before with textured coated boards. Material is not that cheap anymnore but ideal. JK-BMS of course. for a 12v-battery i use a heating element: 20x15cm 20W heating pad for beehives, 2 units. no links otherwise yt erases. at ali search for "Silicone Heater Pad Honey Bee Hive Warmer" and a digital thermostate. for example the xh-w3001....
Where are you from?
Great review. I would say 4 1/2 frogs. It would be nice to see the box a bit more water tight if you wanted to use it with a electric boat motor. With the side cover that comes off for the compression bracket, water would come in. They did put the bms on too so that would help. Happy solstice to you down south! Sad day for us in the north!
Yeah, OK for specific applications it might need some adaptation. Watertight, top terminals, handles... all different needs and requirements.
Andy, 5 frogs is a bit too generous. You had to add foam out of your personal stock to make up manufacturing slack or missing sheets.
Four Point Five Haggis's maximum.
OK, fair enough. Hence, I asked the audience.
Hello.
I bought 16 EVE 280AH batteries 2 months ago. I also procured JK-PB2A16S15P bms for these. I installed it and have been using it for 45 days. My cell number 14 started giving unstable voltage values. While it is not visible in instantaneous currents around 15-20 Ah, it shows a higher or lower value than other cells when drawing or charging energy above 25 Ah. For this reason, I cannot charge and discharge properly because the BMS reaches the lower and upper limits set before the others. Especially during 40-50 ah charging, when the cell sees the upper limit value of 3.5 volts, the bms limits the charging current to 10 ah and this continues until I restart it manually. Is it normal to see abnormal values in cells in such a short time? Additionally, the charge and discharge current limitations on the BMS do not work at all. The hybrid inverter I have tries to charge the cells without any limitation on how many amperes it sends. What advice would you give?
Thanks.
Definitely not normal. I doubt it is a problem with the cell itself. Most likely a connection issue. Swap the bus bars of this cells with some others and see if this makes a difference.
If not, swap the cell with another cell and see if the problem sticks with the cell regardless of where it is mounted.
Andy, after you switch off the bms with the button on the battery box, do you still have voltage across the external battery terminals? I do… after i turn off the bms it drops from the 13.2-4 volt range down to 8v. Guess i would have thought the external terminals would go to zero volts.
good question!
Hello,
Thank you for your help.
I have 4 12 volt lithium batteries connected in series at 48 volts.
however, I have a large voltage variation between the batteries.
In the morning I see a battery with closed bms and during the day I see one at 15 to 15.8 volts.
the other three are between 12.7 and 13.2
can you tell me what could be wrong?
Not ideal as the cells can only balance within a single 12V pack. There are 12V battery balancers available to help with such a problems. They work pretty well. s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDY3VkL
4/5 no handles to pick it up, otherwise it looks like a high quality product.
I'm glad they didn't put handles on. The handles on most other 12V batteries I have are failing. Either the plastic starts breaking or the carrying stripe is deteriorating and falling apart.
But OK 4/5 👍
@@OffGridGarageAustralia my SOK batteries have metal handles… no worries with those.
Can we do half frogs For 4.5 Frogs? Always room for improvements.The sticky foam, manual QR code, and maybe a display since the BMS supports it or at least and place for the display if. you purchase it later and an option.
4.5🐸 are fair. Thanks.
18:13 🐸🐸🐸🐸🐸
5 frogs again!
The nuisance is that the box doesn t work with the double hole studs from EVE .......😭
Furthermore the BMS is not the HC-version. And there might be no space along the cells to install a heating element, just at the bottom i suppose.
Thats the reason why i am going to build a box by myself ..... EEL is ok with the 48V boxes.
Hard to find a heating element not getting warmer than 50 degrees celsius. Sunfunkits from Louisana seems to have one but shipping to europe is very expensive.
So i found by accident a solution with beehive mats.....
I like it Andy - perfect for an RV or canal narrowboat - storing close to 4kw and enough current for a 2kw sine wave inverter - would run a microwave etc - def market for it
Yeah, it can store a lot of energy for its size and can run most things without issues. I would even run the 3kW Peter inverter from it. The JK can deliver up to 300A for a few seconds. Ideal to get this chainsaw started.
Seeing your face on the Gobel Power Stand at the Intersolar in Munich Germany was hilarious :) feeling that you where there with us even from the underside of the world :)
Yes, I got heaps of photos from others with that. So funny... I was actually going to come for the event, but time and $$$ didn't make it work this year. Maybe GP sponsors me next year to be at their stall😊
@@OffGridGarageAustraliaeel, jk and others should participate in sponsorship as well ;)
may be the only neg is the price 🥴; 200$ is quite a bit...but hey, quality may worth it
It includes the 200A JK-BMS as well plus all the accessories. Not sure if you get this cheaper if you buy it separately.
Can you update the firmware on the older 4S JK BMS to get the functionality to set the 100% SOC?
Nope
Missing manual and foam.. 𝘔𝘮𝘮𝘢𝘢𝘺𝘣𝘦 half a frog. 🙂
OK, fair!
Hello, there is a new jk inverter bms FW 15.23 at his website. Did you know the changes to 15.17? Rgards
There is already a V15.24:
V15.23 Upgrade logs
1. Optimize the alarm reporting logic of parallel current limiting module.
2. Optimize the JKBMS-CAN communication protocol.
3. JKBMS RS485_Modbus Add Buad9600bps.
4. Added support for JK-BD6A20S20P JK-BD6A24S20P.
5. fix a bug about DEYE inverter.
V15.24 Upgrade logs
1. Fixed a Bug about LCD display in V15.23.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia great you are the Akku King :-)
🐸🐸🐸🐸 - A display (and may be a CB) would make it a 5. However best 12V system thus far.
I'm not aware of a 12V box with MCB... They usually have a fuse only if at all.
Yes I’m seeing 89k subscribers 06/21/24/15:30 eastern states time zone 😊
Thanks for your great work.
Thank you, Clarence!
Nice kit. I would love to see a 12v battery build suitable for house/leisure bank in marine environment - I.e a sail boat. So a plastic enclosure rather than metal if you get the chance to try something like this. Also keen to know if those 12v JK BMS units can be connected in master/slave config as per your 48v ones, as boat would need more than one battery paralelled, and conneted to inverter-charger such as Victron Quattro or multiplus. Loving your channel. C'mon 90k!
Thank you. There are lots of options for 12V LFP batteries out there. Some are supposed to be IPx6 rated but they don't have JK-BMS.
The BD series of these 12V JK BMS cannot communicate among each other, they are pure standalone devices. However, there are some solutions out there where a Raspberry Pi collects all info of the individual BMS and combines them to either send to an inverter or just for data analysis.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia the other option of course to increase capacity to say 600Ah is to series 4 blocks of 2 parallelled cells (in each block), so only one bms used. The cheapness factor still leads me at looking to build with eve cells in some sort of plastic enclosure. Winston cells would be nice but far too expensive for my small wallet. Maybe I will have to build a fibreglass enclosure. 🤔
I also meant to ask the community here. What takes presedence if you have an inverter/charger (let's say this is Victron multiplus) and mppt/solar both wanting to charge your batteries? If both the mppt and inverter/charger are Victron units will they use comms to give priority to solar to save on grid power? Or aren't they that smart?
Hey Andy, love your videos. I’m considering ordering this box for 4 spare EVE 280ah cells I have. I’m not real familiar with the JK BMS. I would like to charge this 12v battery using my 48v battery bank on my boat. I currently have a Victron 48v-12v DC-DC converter powering my 12v stuff. Can I simply charge this battery using the DC-DC converter, or do I need a LifePo4 specific charger? If i had to, I could get a Victron 12v-12v DC-to-DC charger, but would like to avoid it if I could.
Wow! Thats approx a $600 total cost build for the box and cells for 300+ Amp hours. Thats half the price of some of the top of the line Epoch 300Ah batteries. this is a great box for us sailors who would like to build our own simple 12 volt batteries but also want to have lots of control through the BMS or to be able to upgrade the cells as newer and better ones become available or get damaged. So excited. I might get a couple of these instead of buying batteries already assembled which can be a real pain to quickly and easily service. Lightning strikes are a real danger for boats and can quickly destroy a BMS. It would be easy to carry a spare or two and replace them on the go if this ever happened in the middle of an ocean. Great stuff! A remote display would be an absolute dream to have in addition to the bluetooth. 🐸🐸🐸🐸🐸
A display can be added to the removable front. There is lots of space...
Looks perfect for my van-lyfe build! Now can you get it all put together for less than... erm 4kw 300ah 12v is about $2200?
Even if it is the same, I would still get it. Replace the cells rather than throwing it away.
EDIT $850 AUD, if you can wait until September to get the cells (all via OGG links). Well worth it! $200 per KWH, seems legit.
Curious, when fully assembled can your phone still connect to the BMS? Where to the RF waves escape the box for a BT connection? (top lid also looked like steel?) I'm going to have 4 of these, but will still need to connect with each BMS and pull data into the main automation system. For safety, would also like to see some kind of protection on top of the BMS so nothing can short pos/neg. 4.5frogs and your point of having a spare red/black cover was good as well.
At approx 5:24 you mention 2x 6gauge wire for BMS to terminal. Was that really 6gauge? not 3? or 1/0? 6gauge is for about 55amp continuous so that's undersized for 200amp BMS. Am I missing something? if it is 6awg, frogs drop well below 4 for safety reasons.
Hello from Ukraine. Unfortunately I can’t visit you website from Ukraine, it possibly only with WPN from Germany. Can you change you settings. Thanks a lot
I like the idea of building ones own battery bank for my Sail boat that has 4 x 215 12 volt AGM Battery's = 860 Amp hrs 50% usable power. if I had the same say 3 x lithium battery build using the EEL cases. = about 990 amp hrs of usable say 90% power this is major upgrade. My question does anyone know when you build the EEL cases how much does the finished build 12 volt say 315 amp battery cost to build in AUD? I there any savings from buying an off the shelf finished product ?
Hi Andy, 5 frogs! great video! I also had a the same JK BMS but switched to JBD due to the high idle power consumption (loss couple amps per week) when leaving the battery stored for a few weeks. What are your thoughts on the power consumption? Could you expand on that sometime? Thanks for everything!
Great looking battery box... excellent review as always! The dimensions show 383mm for length, is that the box or to the end of the teriminals? I'm looking for something to fit under the seat of a 2022 Fiat Ducato.
be careful with the size. ask them first. the dimensions at the 48V-box are just for the box.... thats not very smart from EEL...
Yeah, just the length of the box.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia looks like the dead space at the removable panel doesn't help in this case. One half frog down for me....
@@RCDallas12001 Thanks for your feedback and rating.
Definitely 5 frogs. I'm stuck with using 24v system, do you think it's possible to build a 24v battery using a 48v vertical battery case as there are no vertical 24v battery cases available? I don't have the space for a rack mount case.
Temperature sensor is best suited between 2 cells. To accomplish that either under an EVA tape or milled into the epoxy plate (if it has the same thickness)
The sensor is too thick for either. I have seen people printing thin 2mm plastic spacers which have a channel for the sensor.
Lots of boxes ticked here. But the fuse-to-cell conection is terrible. If mine, I'd put a 'tinned' copper washer with tight 6.0 mm hole, at least under it, maybe on top as well.
What do you think is terrible with this connection?
Hi Andy, love your shed. I think your original doubts about those welded studs contact area, was well founded. Even if your tests showed no local hot spots, that flat surface on the cell is not ideal for a high current to pass. They could have used more area of the terminal base, and welded a bigger area stud. Your magnet test once said it's steel, and so about 18% as good as Copper, or 30% of Aluminium. If you had a tinned copper lug, bigger in area than the stud, with a 6.00 mm hole in it, (not 6.5 even or 1/4"), that would be the way to make the best of a bad cell design. The fuse with a slot that is 8.5 mm wide, and much longer, results in very minimal contact area. The tight red condom covers on the fuse may reduce rating? I know these later, high cap cells have reduced recommended current specs, and your application won't push them.
I've ordered some EVE-LF280K- HSEV from Gobel, for EV application with the optional double-screw thread terminals. The 1C contin/ 2C pulsed rating means 560 amps for 30 secs discharge would need everything going for it. They wouldn't fit in that box because of height I guess.
No EVA foam 🐸🐸🐸🐸 They should have stock in EU Warehouse
🐸🐸🐸🐸🐸
If you post videos and your viewer ask you questions, you should have courtesy to answer. Without it your videos are just to make money.
🐸🐸🐸🐸🐸
🐸🐸🐸🐸🐸
🐸🐸🐸🐸🐸
Does the JK have a bouncer built into it. If not 4.5 frogs if it does five frogs. The only thing that would be better for me if it was 8 cell 12-volt. But making it bigger does not downgrade to five frogs
EEL have a display version, it looks quite nice, the only thing I can see from a 12V usage side, it would have been nice if both sides of the box were fixed to ensure moisture protection where the battery sits, especially good for camping etc, and the compression etc could then be dropped into the box like a bathtub, this would be great
Does the Bluetooth work when the case is closed?
Yes, absolutely no problem.
Only 4 frogs because no heating option and lcd is available and no double hole cell terminals are possible.
And wiring to Case Terminals should be done with flexible busbars
Hello Andy at my last Order at eel i asked eel to replace Eva foam with Silicon foam i bought myself in china.. they told me that they will send you 18 Samples of Silcon foam for free from my order. Maybe you could Test IT.
@OffGridGarageAustralia EEL versendet an sie die von mir bereitgestellten silikonschaumstoff Muster nur wenn sie ihnen dazu eine Erlaubnis erteilen. Könnten sie dies evtl. Machen, ich bin überzeugt das die silikonschaumstoff platten im vergleich zu den Eva Platten deutlich länger druckstabil sind. Hat sich so bei Leistungshalbleiter Modulen schon seit Jahrzehnten bewährt.
The only negative thing I can about the kit is the negative battery circuit. I am positive the positive circuit is a thumbs up. 🙂
Hahaha, I had to read it a few times to get it😆
Its a 5 Frog product!
I bought one in the UK it took about 8 weeks to arrived direct form EEL in China
Can I put this battery in 6p configuration? Support mostly up to 4p max if so can anybody explain why
4 Frogs
It's a very nice 12V battery box. However, it has no safety isolator switch.
12V batteries don't have that. They are for camping and RV applications.
It has a fuse, so no need for an isolator.
Yes, for me the same. 4 frogs only. A mechanical breaker is a musthave, for safety you can't rely on the soft switch in the bms only.
Only 4 frogs from me.
The box is unnecessarily large with lots of free space around the cells, the compression plate doesn't go to the top of the last cell and you needed to add packers to ensure that the cells didn't move.
Orange for the Dutch… 🐸🐸🐸🐸🐸. This is also a great design for a 48V DIY box…. Including the orange and rounded box 👍
just received my eel box and it included 2 foam sheets and it is every thing you said and more. defiantly 5 frogs. if it fits in my camper i will order 2 more
4.8 frogs, for the missing foam sheets
We're not cutting frogs!
Will this box work with the MB31 duel terminal?
Looks Pretty much like a shrinked eel v4
Just built 5 eel v4 48v boxes with the inverter bms - and only one minor issue when one temp sensor was not working. I just replaced the ntc myself.
The quality of eel boxes is good. Only the diameter of their cables for 200A…. Not so impressing
The EEL 48V box is next on my list.
The double 6AWG wire in the 12V box is good for 150A. As it is short and not many people will push for more than that continuously, I think it is OK.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia If it does not meet rated capacity, it's not ok. in USA 6awg is only good for 55amp continuous. This is a problem. If someone wanted to push it to 200amp, this is a big safety issue. Does not matter if only 1percent of people want this. the BMS is rated for 200amp continuous? Did they upsize the BMS but not the cables? I think in your video, you said the fuse is 250amp? This is red hot fire territory for those cables. Safety is to manufacturer rating not how many people push up that high. Trying an outdoor test pushing 200amp through the box. Would make for a dramatic video. I was getting close to buying this but they seem to have cut corners that can harm people.
Curious where you get 150amp number? What I can find online says 6awg is 55amp. Am I missing something?
@@Chris-ut6eq I'm using the Jcalc website for Australian regulations. 6AWG is 16mm cable, good for 72A. Being a very high stranded wire with silicone insulation, they can cope with more. There are tables online for these cables. The length of the cable and how much air flow it has plays a role as well. So 80-90A if not 100 should be possible.
The BMS is 200A, the breaker 250A and we have 2x 6AWG cables, so at least good for 150A. I'm not too concerned about it as we never push continues 200A through the BMS and the battery. In case of a short, the BMS will shut-off, if it fails, we have the breaker.
www.jcalc.net/voltage-drop-calculator-as3008
@@OffGridGarageAustralia If you are comfortable with this for your personal use, based on the assumption you will not push more than 140-150amps through a device claiming to support 200amps, that's fine.
Anyone else using this should look at their national electrical code for amperage guidance. In the USA, for copper core 55-75range is possible depending on the type of insulation. Keep in mind the higher amperage means the cable will be putting off ALOT of heat at 150amps, that why the high heat resistant insulation is needed.
IF someone does not pay attention and tries to use the full rating of the BMS (200amps), this wire is a fire hazard. Depending on the wire to burn through and short out to trip a breaker means you are already in serious trouble. The internal fuse sized at 250amps is not helpful either. I assume the BMS default limit is 200amps?
Also the fact this is in an enclosure also would mean some derating should be considered.
Anyone reading this, use the NEC (National electric code), see if the cable including has any markings for meeting cable insulation standards (they look someone like this in the USA, TBS, SA, SIS, FEP,FEPB, MI, RHH, RHW-2,THHN, THHW, THW-2,THWN-2, USE-2, XHH,XHHW, XHHW-2)
Then look at the guidance in the NEC for enclosed use poor to middling air cooling.
If your personal use case aligns with the current capability of the cables, be sure the BMS and internal fuse also work for intended amperage.
As shipped this device IS a fire hazard at it's 200amp rating, using the 250amp fuse. Never depend on external breakers for what's going on inside the battery box.
Breaker sizing is whole other thing as breakers have ratings for AC/DC and timing curves with ratings like A/B/D/etc which determine trip times for resistive/inductive loads. A external breaker is protecting things outside of the battery box.
In the USA, consider using a good quality copper 3/0 gauge or even 4/0 if you want to get 200amps to power a 2000/3000 inverter.
If you want 150amps, upgrade to 1/0 or 2/0 and change out the internal fuse. Be sure you get a high heat insulation rated insulation for safety.
In general, don't be cavalier with electrical safety. National electric codes exist because people have already died when things went wrong.
Is there a lot of bending stress on the balancing connector on pcb? This looks like a weak point. Is it through hole or surface mount?
I'd be very interested in some 24v DIY battery builds, love the channel, Thanks!
Yeah, 24V is really not my thing as I could not use this battery anywhere. I have no 24V equipment and the battery would not fit into any of my systems.
Edit: New Info Available ...
Looks like competition in this market is heating up.
Prices on the kits seem to be all over the board. Some decent deals on 24v boxes through CNEEL iirc on Ali.
The EEL box -seems- to discourage setups for series (2 x 12v = 24v) operation.
Original comment:
I too had an interest in a 24v system to power a remote link to my ISP. Looking at prices, it looks like you can just build 2 12v boxes for the same price and get additional flexibility. Also spend capital in smaller increments.
Bloody close to 5 frogs, 4.5 maybe the case isn't water resistant rated either
5 out of 5 frogs - no doubt!
Will be ordering a 24V version when I'm back from holliday :)
Any idea if it's possible to buy without BMS? (I already have a 200A JK Inverter BMS that I'm using)
I'm sure you can buy one without BMS, just let them know when you order.
Missing mounting options.
The easiest and best would be to add threaded inserts all around the outside of the battery box on each side.
I'm not a fan of the side terminals. RV's are often designed around top terminals. The side terminals usually require a design change. Just my 2 cents depending on your RV build. I swapped an SOK 12v battery BMS for a JK inside the SOK case. If this was an option at the time it would have been far easier to build.
Fair enough, thanks for your feedback and thoughts.
Great kit, thank you for this review! Glory to Ukraine!
Like# 1,1?? - Woot - 12v, I think I only have the trailer brake & light system? You know what would be really nice, a very small, compact 48v "emergency jump/inverter start" pack. My Growatt inverter will not start if it does not have 48v from a battery...
I'm in the process of building such a 48V battery. Watch this space...
They have just uploaded a video showing their new 280ah stacking box with new JL BMS, it will be interesting to see what price this is.Maybe your next test and review Andy? Great work mate , Merv
Yes, I will test this the next.
Andy you are mentioning the MB31 .. on the Intersolar they showed a mb56 which was a lot bigger but I didn’t took a photo. But that should come out at the end of the year. It has only layers in it and not the squished „toiletpaper“ construction so it is (so said the woman from eve) preventing a thermal runaway and will make it very less likely to happen. Together with the half c rate it has somewhat between 8000-10000 cycles. Would be great to see that coming into an diy Case … but then we are out of our hobby I think.
the price is not only the double of the 304Ah, but a lot more. cycles more than 12.000. we have to wait for mass-production....
4 stk. frøer årsag: stor box, kabler burde være formet til kassen, prisen er for høj.
Of course 5 out of 5! I’ll send a link to the video to my engineer friends as an example of good design🎉
I don't know...... either 5 toad frogs or 4 bull frogs.
Does the bluetooth work from that Faraday cage?
Ah, yes, no problem.
At last ! 4.5 frogs due to missing tapes. Please try the the EEL 48V (horizontal) JK kit !
Thanks for the 4.5🐸 I'm currently editing the video for the 48V version.
Looks really good, but really nothing to complain about.
What if they would have put the BMS on the side, and had an window on the top so you could see the "valves" on top of the cells easily?
Extra costs, I guess. Why would you want to see the valves?
4.5 fogs because of the eva tape :D
Five frogs for sure. Love the design as well. Manual not needed. Foam, is available in all good equipped offgrid garages worldwide, right?!! 😂😂😂😂😂❤❤❤❤❤ Thanks for testing.
Yeah, they will include two foam sheets in the future, so all good.
I think a 4.5 frogs as it needed you to add the 2 eva foam pieces.
🐸🐸🐸🐸🐸
5 from you, OK.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia 😅 Yes, the issues I saw with batteries latly...in comparison, this one is really almost perfect 🤗 I would love to see a mechanical circuit breaker...but other than that, I think it is very good.
@@Raphael_Hofmann Yeah, 12V batteries usually don't have a breaker. But there is some room in the front for a nice DIY project.
Nice box, My only fear is the bluetooth signal strengh with full steel enclosure, maybe a little plastic windows for optional screen can solve this
Makes no difference. I have several metal battery boxes and signal is still strong enough to reach your mobile even if several meters away.
turned whole warehouse lights to 12v DC ////13.2v to be precise for all led lines and all i see is efficiency goes bad .
i did this to avoid inverting from 48v to 230 and back to 12
but conversion from 48 to 12v still demands big ammounts of losses!!!!
any thoughts of sending 230 and installing ac to dc right close to the leds ...or let it be ? ?
It is the long 12V runs which cause the issue. Current goes up and efficiency down. It's probably better to run 230V to each light and have the driver connected to the LEDs. I think, that's the most efficient way.
🐸🐸🐸🐸🐸
It includes the BMS and all accessories. I think the price is great.
Ich habe die fertig von EEL gekauft und seit 1/2 Jahr im Wohnwagen im Einsatz. Mich hatte das robuste Design und der günstigste Preis überzeugt die Batterie zu nehmen 😊
Klappt super 👍
Ah, thanks for sharing your experience. Good to know!
Fünf Frösche - keine Frage!
Thanks.
does anyone know the usual ship time from qso to the UK. im 5 weeks from dispatch and only have a fedex number for when the cells arrive in the uk
takes normally 6weeks and more .... may be for brexiteers ...😉😉
I've received the 48V version and it includes the EVA foam. The quality is the same.
Coming up next here on the channel. Getting all battery case reviews out of the way at once 😅
4.5 Frogs
Are we cutting frogs?
It's a baby 48v box ... cool ❤
It would be better with double terminals.
You mean at the front? Yeah, could be an option. I guess most people in camping scenarios use such batteries as a mobile solution and just swap an empty battery with another one.
Carrying handles would be nice
Yes, 5 frogs. Very nice with all aspects.
OK, 5 from you.
5 FROGS
Great, thanks.
5
I am missing a carrying handle.
So 4 frogs
WRONG!!! The 0.5Nm on a M6 for 300kg are wrong ! Test it out... try to lift a car with 6 M6 Screws and 3Nm... nothing will happen! There is a dimension missing in that ! 300kg/mm² or 300kg/m² or what?
The M6 bolt may provide 300kg on its rod end - but not on the area of an undefined amount!
Temp sensor you may glue on the QR Code - its the best thermal conduction place.
It's not 300kg, it's 300kgf.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia kg and kgf are about the same! kg is the FORCE that presses you on the ground that is caused by gravity, where kgf is the same amount, but independent of gravity as source in any other direction.
So: to compress LFPs you can stack them vertically and put a 300kg weight on top - then you have kgf "forced"by gravity - or you put them horizonal and bolt them with screws to replace gravity effects.
Put a scale between to plates and then tighten the screws till it reaches 300kg - and you realized 300kgf. Or put it on the ground and use 300kg weight. Nothing strange - no real difference!
And: Eve uses 10mm !!! Aluminium plates as reference... with 6 times M6 PER CELL! 2 rows of cell - => 12 bolts needed ? Your calculation was 0.5Nm for them, where 12 are needed to calculate - so 0,25Nm ? Thats handtight - no pressure of 300kg(f) never. Insert finger, wont hurt, put 300kg weight on it and use gravity instead of bolts - hurts! :-)
Think that issue needs clearance because many of your followers will need proper facts (as you provide most the time) - they believe you! (and I am only an engineer ;) )
BTW: Shellys work with 60V !!! see my comment and short video I did only for you my friend ;-)
Special Dutch football collor.
Yes, Oranje! Good luck at the European Football Championship
1:10 Why not using a RPi with attached Display running Chrome/Firefox in Kiosk-Mode all the time? Using it all time in my "living room" to monitor my VenusOS in the Garage.
Why so complicated if a simple old tablet will do the trick?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Good Point. Just to rescue a Raspi from his spare-life 😝
I didn't see any handles? Hard to lift 30 kilos without handles?
No, no handles, I talked about it. It has these carrying grip which works good. Depends on if you need to carry the box or install it in an RV.
They need to add a double stud terminal option for this
I ordered two, intending to use the double stud terminals. I spoke to EEL and the only thing that changes is I'll have to come up with a different solution for the fuse.
I'm sure you can tell them when you order and they will put some in for you.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia the website says single terminal only. They'll probably have to do something different with the fuse since it might not line up correctly with one of the double studs.
@@niktak1114 i talked to them some months ago. the problem seems to be the big stud. double stud is my favorite too ... but only the original from EVE....
Heya, yes a very good battery case but 🐸🐸🐸🐸🐸I don't know. as it is a 12V something like handles would be nice and not eveyone has those foamplates lighing around ( wel I don't ) and a manual would be nince for a lot of DIY'ers I think so I think I would go for 🐸🐸🐸🐸and as orange is the colour of the supporters of our soccer team that would give it 4,5 🐸 lol.
hi i just installed a small solar setup with lifepo4 battery in 4s config.. but in my mppt it just shows 13.2 volts and does not reach 14.4 as set on my mppt.. each battery is just measuring 3.325 something volts hope you can help
You have to give us more details what equipment you have, how it is been setup and what parameters you have set in your controller.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia im using powmr 40amps mppt 4s 20ah battery with 100watts panel, it with thw default setting of the mppt of 4 3.2v ,
I think I bent a 4mm steel plate while compressing my cells 😅😅 I can confirm no issues so far even the difference between the cells are minimized now 😊.
Outch! 0.5Nm is enough for 6x M6 screws.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia they are 6x m19 studs!
These 12V and 24V ELL DIY battery boxes are great.
The only thing missing is the Touchscreen option on purchase, only then I would give it 5 out of 5.
Yeah, as an optional accessory... I agree.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia The optional external displays are available on their shop. A small one and a big one with touch.
You just made me hurry up this morning, when I saw your video... I already had two of the boxes in the shopping cart, together with 4 48V JKV4 with Touch Boxes... now after your video I have to fear that they run out of storck 😂
Beautiful, 12volt, 2S4P ( high capacity 12v) how to balance? Best BMS? etc
The JK BMS included does the balancing. It has an active balancer built in.
Yep, go for the JK-BMS. Link is in the description.
Jetzt muß ich dich fragen. Mir kommt vor das du deutsche/österreichische Wurzeln hast.
Look in the description...
Compress or not? I read lots of arguments telling that it worth nothing...
You will find a 'few' videos about this topic here on the channel😊
Great looking battery, kit and cells. My thoughts on battery voltage look at the intended supply and the intended load. Any location where 12v is the norm (cars, vans trucks) then 12v is a good idea. If the maximum current will exceed 200A then look at a higher voltage ( high current means fat wires and lots of IR heating)