Thank God, just recently got an 05 ranger and I've been having this same issue minus the codes, I suspected it was the pump but now that I know how to test it you have possibly saved me a lot of time, money, and emotions. Also to anyone having this issue, if it's the same as mine, an easy way to get your truck started until you can fix it is to: before trying to start it you turn your key to accessory mode let it sit for e second, turn it off and then immediately turn it over.
Thank you, this is the only video I could find related to the issue I'm having. This gives me a good place to start. Seems as if mine won't start of the first try when cold but then the second try usually does it
I have the same issue with my manual 01 2.5L, it starts the the first time then dies out right away. The second or third try usually gets it warmed up and going. But sometimes I have to keep the accelerator pushed down slightly to keep it from stalling.
Oh My! Thank you sooo much for this video it gives me hope that I can do this my self. My 01 Ranger is doing the same thing but with no codes (Thank Goodness) At the moment though it's been doing it intermittently. I Been suspecting for a while now that it's the fuel pump that it's about to go out. Thank You!
Can anyone help me, Trying to find the fuel rail to locate the Shreider valve so i can test the pressure of my 2005 Ford Ranger v6 4 liter SOCH, I can't find anything online that shows me exactly where it is. Everythings showing me either 2004 models or explorer's which are completely different.
Bro, if this is what resolves my issue that I've had and been chasing for months thinking it's a vacuum/electrical issue. I will forever be in your debt.
Mine had all the symptoms of a bad check valve, so I replaced the fuel pump assembly, and it fixed the problem. Looking at the old fuel pump though, it wasn't the check valve. The hose that connected the pump to the high-pressure outlet line was starting to split. If I replace a couple inches of hose, I'll have a spare pump.
Hey Steve, could we feature your accident clip on July 4, 2019 in a compilation? Full credit is given on screen and in description! I look forward to your reply!
My 2008 has a furl filter that has 3 lines going to it. One line comes from the tank where the fuel pump is. One line goes to the engine. The 3rd line is smaller and goes back to the tank. It has a small orifice in it to drop fuel pressure to 0 when the engine is off. So there is no fuel pressure even after installing a new fuel pump when the engine is off.
Good clean and understandable video. Thank you. Have the same issue with my ranger and used my day off to put in a new pump and is was faulty. Still haven’t been back home to fix it. Watched a few other videos and it seems a common thing to get new bad pumps.
To the pump or the fuel rail? the fuel rail has a schrader on the back passenger side hidden under some vacuum lines and wiring. Not sure how he got the fuel line though
I broke mine, too. Fortunately the parts store had replacements because the brand "precision" didn't supply any. Tightwads. Make a note of that. Buy a better brand of pump or bring home the clips when you purchase your new pump. Or make a special trip like I had to.
You could try, I have always had poor results spraying penetrating oil on bolts/nuts. If you do it would have to be from underneath the box. Easier just to snap them off and get new ones. Get the new ones from you local hardware store with a little Loctite. The ones online I had trouble getting them on even with an impact wrench for my f-150 and they are more expensive.
great video ! looking for some advice on my 2000 ford 2.5l. i have a lean code, checked for vacuum leaks with a smoke machine. there was smoke coming out of the idle air control valve's(IAC) top/breaher cap/vent (not sure want its called), and on the Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR valve) vents holes . wanted to know if that was normal?
You are by far the best out there demonstrating all different possible causes. Every word you say makes so much sense and echoes far and deep. Your logic in troubleshooting is just amazing and perfect. 2001 Ranger 4.0 XLT, 106K miles, 2nd owner since bought in 2016 (I live in Dallas; original owner was from rural Nebraska - lots of rust underneath); Have had intermittent start issues(i.e 2+ weeks the engine will crank but no start, then out of nowhere, no reason, it will fire up and be ok for a week or so). My biggest concern was taking the gas tank down where all bolts underneath are totally rusted. Then i watched this video and the lightbulb came on! .... no need to mess from underneath. Removed the original bed liner (breaking 6 out of 8 bolts that secure the 4 U-shaped, two-hole brackets (for strapping), and then the very fwd/driver's side bed bolt sheared off. But that is nothing to compare if i were to remove totally rusted hardware underneath. Thanks to you, probably you saved me a week's breaking&fixing rusty hardware. You are one of a kind....many, many thanks!
I heard you say something about the injectors and oil in throwing the lean codes both sides but when I start it it blows a little smoke on the start up that's it. Would you say that's injectors?
I have a 90 Ranger and thought the check valve was part of the fuel line going in the tank? If it’s part of the fuel pump then a new pump should have fixed my problem? Your truck is a newer model so maybe different? OzarkMark
1997 and older also had a fuel pressure regulator(FPR) on the engine end of the fuel system. Check out RonD post here. www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/check-valve-for-the-fuel-pump-system.183694/
Try cutting "hand hole' on the truck bed for easy access of fuel pump in the future. I would like to see someone post in TH-cam a fuel pump access "hand hole" so I would know where to cut....or make $$$ selling fuel pump "Hand Hole Cover"😜😝🤪
Interesting you put the pressure gauge right into the filter! Why not use the port in the engine bay? Have a feeling I'll need to replace the pump, same exact issue.
I did. The port in the engine bay is after the injectors. When the pressure dropped there I still didn't know if it was the check valve or the injectors. The filter is before the injectors. If it drops there it has to be the check valve (or leak).
I've got the 95 Mazda B2300 version that does this also. Can work fine for weeks, then all of a sudden it won't start after running for a while. Let it set for 10 minutes or maybe 30 minutes and it starts fine. Did you come up with a solution?
Did your gas ever throw up when you tried filling your tank? I have an 01 3.0V6 ranger and I have to turn the accessories on 5 times really fast and then start it. Think this is my issue as well?
That's really not possible a bad relay switch will cut power to the fuel pump which will cause the engine to stop. Now if you had an intermittent problem with the relay switch your engine would run intermittently, not hard start... and if your had a bad rollover switch it either wouldn't cut off the fuel in a rollover or it would cut off the fuel without a rollover. Neither would cause a hard start, maybe a partially closed rollover switch would but I've never heard of that.
These fords are such junk. Mine has 50,000 miles and I've been having all kinds of fuel problems, electrical problems etc. Ready to run it off a cliff. Take the entire bed off to get to the tank? Holy crap, what a POS. I'm cutting a hole in the bed
It only takes a few mintes, especially if you have an air tool. Have done it myself and I am 67, medium frame build. You only need to work the bed bak enough to get to the pump, which is right behind the cab. Much easier than dropping the fuel tank...and it's not only Fords, lol!
It would be great if we would get a video where the check valve location on the fuel pump is shown, and how to rectify it if it's serviceable, without buying a new unit
Thank God, just recently got an 05 ranger and I've been having this same issue minus the codes, I suspected it was the pump but now that I know how to test it you have possibly saved me a lot of time, money, and emotions.
Also to anyone having this issue, if it's the same as mine, an easy way to get your truck started until you can fix it is to: before trying to start it you turn your key to accessory mode let it sit for e second, turn it off and then immediately turn it over.
Thank you, this is the only video I could find related to the issue I'm having. This gives me a good place to start. Seems as if mine won't start of the first try when cold but then the second try usually does it
Mine also only acts up when cold. Did this fix your issue?
I have the same issue with my manual 01 2.5L, it starts the the first time then dies out right away. The second or third try usually gets it warmed up and going. But sometimes I have to keep the accelerator pushed down slightly to keep it from stalling.
Issues I had before now I have an acceleration loss
Oh My! Thank you sooo much for this video it gives me hope that I can do this my self. My 01 Ranger is doing the same thing but with no codes (Thank Goodness) At the moment though it's been doing it intermittently. I Been suspecting for a while now that it's the fuel pump that it's about to go out. Thank You!
Can anyone help me, Trying to find the fuel rail to locate the Shreider valve so i can test the pressure of my 2005 Ford Ranger v6 4 liter SOCH, I can't find anything online that shows me exactly where it is. Everythings showing me either 2004 models or explorer's which are completely different.
I dont think an 05 has a valve, I have the same truck and can't find it
Bro, if this is what resolves my issue that I've had and been chasing for months thinking it's a vacuum/electrical issue. I will forever be in your debt.
Mine had all the symptoms of a bad check valve, so I replaced the fuel pump assembly, and it fixed the problem. Looking at the old fuel pump though, it wasn't the check valve. The hose that connected the pump to the high-pressure outlet line was starting to split. If I replace a couple inches of hose, I'll have a spare pump.
Hey Steve, could we feature your accident clip on July 4, 2019 in a compilation? Full credit is given on screen and in description! I look forward to your reply!
Stfu bots
fuel line connections @ fuel filter no tool dohicky bad seal....🎉🥩🍗🚣♂️🙋🏻🦈🐗🏴☠️🕉️🗡️🐧🧉
Dorman makes a bed bolt repair kit.
can you put a link of the one you bought.
My 2008 has a furl filter that has 3 lines going to it. One line comes from the tank where the fuel pump is. One line goes to the engine. The 3rd line is smaller and goes back to the tank. It has a small orifice in it to drop fuel pressure to 0 when the engine is off. So there is no fuel pressure even after installing a new fuel pump when the engine is off.
Good clean and understandable video. Thank you. Have the same issue with my ranger and used my day off to put in a new pump and is was faulty. Still haven’t been back home to fix it. Watched a few other videos and it seems a common thing to get new bad pumps.
I appreciate this video. Mine is doing the same crap.
Thanks. Mines been doing the same.
Wish you had shown where to attach the fuel pressure gauge. I can’t find the schrader valve anywhere
To the pump or the fuel rail? the fuel rail has a schrader on the back passenger side hidden under some vacuum lines and wiring. Not sure how he got the fuel line though
It was good video
Thank you for the video, it helped me, however I have a question. How did you get the fuel line clips off. I broke mine when removing.
If i remember correctly, I think the orange ones you pry them up with a flat head screwdriver.i believe the green one you push down.
I broke mine, too. Fortunately the parts store had replacements because the brand "precision" didn't supply any. Tightwads. Make a note of that. Buy a better brand of pump or bring home the clips when you purchase your new pump. Or make a special trip like I had to.
Spray bolts week before?
You could try, I have always had poor results spraying penetrating oil on bolts/nuts. If you do it would have to be from underneath the box. Easier just to snap them off and get new ones. Get the new ones from you local hardware store with a little Loctite. The ones online I had trouble getting them on even with an impact wrench for my f-150 and they are more expensive.
great video ! looking for some advice on my 2000 ford 2.5l. i have a lean code, checked for vacuum leaks with a smoke machine. there was smoke coming out of the idle air control valve's(IAC) top/breaher cap/vent (not sure want its called), and on the Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR valve) vents holes . wanted to know if that was normal?
Putting the gauge on the filter the pressure has to hold for how long mine go all to 105psi but is like 15 minutes is dropping to 50 psi
I believe If that holds at 50 that should be good.
Check the fuel rail, Schrader valve. If that doesn't hold you probably have a leaky injector.
You are by far the best out there demonstrating all different possible causes. Every word you say makes so much sense and echoes far and deep. Your logic in troubleshooting is just amazing and perfect. 2001 Ranger 4.0 XLT, 106K miles, 2nd owner since bought in 2016 (I live in Dallas; original owner was from rural Nebraska - lots of rust underneath); Have had intermittent start issues(i.e 2+ weeks the engine will crank but no start, then out of nowhere, no reason, it will fire up and be ok for a week or so). My biggest concern was taking the gas tank down where all bolts underneath are totally rusted. Then i watched this video and the lightbulb came on! .... no need to mess from underneath. Removed the original bed liner (breaking 6 out of 8 bolts that secure the 4 U-shaped, two-hole brackets (for strapping), and then the very fwd/driver's side bed bolt sheared off. But that is nothing to compare if i were to remove totally rusted hardware underneath. Thanks to you, probably you saved me a week's breaking&fixing rusty hardware. You are one of a kind....many, many thanks!
I heard you say something about the injectors and oil in throwing the lean codes both sides but when I start it it blows a little smoke on the start up that's it. Would you say that's injectors?
I have a 90 Ranger and thought the check valve was part of the fuel line going in the tank? If it’s part of the fuel pump then a new pump should have fixed my problem? Your truck is a newer model so maybe different? OzarkMark
1997 and older also had a fuel pressure regulator(FPR) on the engine end of the fuel system. Check out RonD post here.
www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/check-valve-for-the-fuel-pump-system.183694/
Try cutting "hand hole' on the truck bed for easy access of fuel pump in the future. I would like to see someone post in TH-cam a fuel pump access "hand hole" so I would know where to cut....or make $$$ selling fuel pump "Hand Hole Cover"😜😝🤪
th-cam.com/video/qjzEqPMvkys/w-d-xo.html
The video exists.
I think removing 6 bolts is just as easy though.
How did you get the bolt out once it snapped
Nice job👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
By any chance would your theft light blink rapidly before switching out the old fuel pump ?
I don't think so. I think it blinked slowly, while vehicle was off, before and after changing the pump.
Interesting you put the pressure gauge right into the filter! Why not use the port in the engine bay?
Have a feeling I'll need to replace the pump, same exact issue.
I did. The port in the engine bay is after the injectors. When the pressure dropped there I still didn't know if it was the check valve or the injectors. The filter is before the injectors. If it drops there it has to be the check valve (or leak).
Thanks, my 94 does the same thing but only 1 time every couple of months it won't start at all then later it starts right up..
I've got the 95 Mazda B2300 version that does this also. Can work fine for weeks, then all of a sudden it won't start after running for a while. Let it set for 10 minutes or maybe 30 minutes and it starts fine. Did you come up with a solution?
Great video
Sir, what engine is this and can you tell me where the Schrader valve is located, can't find on mine 4l 2002 Ranger
Back of the passenger side fuel rail.
Won't let me post a picture. Yes, it is the 4.0.
Did your gas ever throw up when you tried filling your tank? I have an 01 3.0V6 ranger and I have to turn the accessories on 5 times really fast and then start it. Think this is my issue as well?
Yes, gas would come shooting out upon fill up. I think it's that hose is slightly kinked. It wasn't completely solved.
i removed the zip tie that was on the fill hose close to the fuel pumk, and that seemed to fix it for me.
So you're Steve C from Bitog?
Um, no
Where did you buy the pressure gage?
yeah, anyone know wherewto get a good one?
@@liamtroesh35 got one on Amazon works good
Replace your emergency roll over shut off switch and fuel pump relay switch. It’s what corrected my issues.
Sounds like you had a "no start" problem, not a "hard start" problem.
@@stevec588 nope. After the shop replaced the fuel pump relay switch and the emergency shut off I haven’t had any issues.
That's really not possible a bad relay switch will cut power to the fuel pump which will cause the engine to stop. Now if you had an intermittent problem with the relay switch your engine would run intermittently, not hard start... and if your had a bad rollover switch it either wouldn't cut off the fuel in a rollover or it would cut off the fuel without a rollover. Neither would cause a hard start, maybe a partially closed rollover switch would but I've never heard of that.
@@stevec588 in any case, the replacement of both of those components fixed my issue. Go figure.
These fords are such junk. Mine has 50,000 miles and I've been having all kinds of fuel problems, electrical problems etc. Ready to run it off a cliff.
Take the entire bed off to get to the tank? Holy crap, what a POS. I'm cutting a hole in the bed
Totally agree....why not put "hand hole" on the truck beds. FORD designers need to learn from the Japanese...
It only takes a few mintes, especially if you have an air tool. Have done it myself and I am 67, medium frame build. You only need to work the bed bak enough to get to the pump, which is right behind the cab. Much easier than dropping the fuel tank...and it's not only Fords, lol!
@@vickierogers816 50k miles? I'm looking at a Ford rv with a V10. Only has 27k miles. It's got a rod knock. Unbelievable
It would be great if we would get a video where the check valve location on the fuel pump is shown, and how to rectify it if it's serviceable, without buying a new unit
Always go for a new unit especially for hard to reach areas like a fule pump
If the check valve is going bad, just replace the whole unit, why mess around with the rest of it going bad and leaving you stranded.