Excellent video, showed me everything I needed. While I went with IAG mounts instead, everything still applies. For those just finding this video like me, I was able to do this on my garage floor with a standard floor jack and jack stands. That said, it was NOT easy (granted I am somewhat of a novice). It should be doable without removing the steering rack. I unbolted it but wasn't able to move it enough to be meaningful. One hint is that, when it comes to moving the engine for the first time, 4 inches feels like A LOT. I'm pretty sure I had to go higher to get the left-side. Additionally, ensure the transmission mount is seated correctly before bolting everything back together. I did have to have someone help me shake the engine into place while lowering the jack. Feels weird, but it worked. Good luck!
FYI to anyone that will be upgrading mounts themselves, the left engine mount is a pain in the ass to remove. Lift is a must! My buddy and I used two transmission jacks to help out with the removal/install.
Yep, I'm here right now on my garage floor looking for tips in the comments. I tried doing it without lowering the steering rack as some suggested, but looking to be impossible without here lol. Going to try that and if it doesn't work I'll just struggle until it does lol.
Thinking of doing this on my crosstrek, along with pitch stop, and trans mount/bushings. That car can't afford to lose any more power lol. Idk how I feel about doing this on Jack stands and a creeper...
Doing this on jack stands is a major PIA. but with patience it's doable. I didnt have to mess with the steering rack. I almost did but the bolt finally broke loose for me. It's tight on the drivers side for sure. Stubby ratchet to the rescue...
+Blake's Garage I usually go to my local DIY shop on stuff that really needs a lift... pay hourly for a full lift, air tools and a full suite of tools. Check around your area, you may have one close by
In my opinion, motor mounts are the reason pitch stops fail. because all that motion is flexed due to the weak stock mounts.... just doing your motor mounts should generally make the powertrain and drivetrain reliable, no need for upgraded pitchstop or trans mount.
can u guys make a pre cut black vinyl for the front lip of the bumper (s207 style). i like to dip the middle part of the front lip, but i would rather have vinyl. if u guys could make one pre cut, that would be awesome!!!
Is it mandatory for the steering rack bracket and bolts to be removed? Or does that make it a little easier? Can it be done without removal of the rack mounting?
Just a follow up to my own question. I did the group n mounts and I found dropping the rack is so much easier getting the two motor mount bolts. It's probably possible to do it with the rack still in place but I can imagine how much more difficult it would have been.
@@nabaddame5726 Did you take it out completely or just remove the bolts? I'm messing with this right now and even after removing the brackets it doesnt move much
@@grassbag1 no didn't take the rack out completely. Just removed all of the rack bolts and the brackets. Just make sure u disconnect your battery before trying to jack up the motor just in case anything touches where it shouldn't. I was able to get about 3-4" of clearance to remove the motor mount bolts. Get a extended and regular ratcheting wrench. I think the last time I did it I use the harbor freight go thru socket set. It was $20...should still be around there now and worked perfectly.
@@nabaddame5726 Thanks. Getting the bolts off was a pain but getting the actual mount out was the most difficult. I have killer b headers with external wastegates, as well as an STI trans which is making everything a pain since there's less room
What car years do you have to apply the spacers on the rear bolts? I have an 07 and the mounts went on with no issues without the spacers and the angle for the cross-member bolt was correct. Am I missing something?
Are you using the factory exhaust manifolds on this car, or have you upgraded them? My '16 limited is on order, so I haven't seen the underside in person....should be finished in a few weeks. Also, is there some reason why you never use air tools?
I'm picking up my 2016 wrx wrb on monday with 12 miles on her. Would you recommend doing the break in of 1,000 miles or open it up when you get her and ride her hard to seal everything?
In the instructions from Perrin it says when you drop the motor mount into the subframe to make sure it's centered left to right. You didn't touch on this part. Can you clarify? Seems like there's a lot of room for error on that car and the mounts may not sit at the correct position.
I've installed the Torque Solutions mounts and can assume they are similar to Perrin's... when you lower the engine you will most likely have to persuade it into position. Get the studs near the frame and see where they line up in relation to the slot. Then grab the engine and shake, rattle, push, shove and repeat till the engine is where you want it. left to right is easy. Front to back takes a bit of effort. If you miss just jack it back up a bit and shake it some more.
Hey guys thanks for all the videos but i was hoping to see some mods for a crosstrek im working on a 2013 crosstrek xv with a manual trans and looking to see what i can put on it thanks in advance
I currently own a 2015 WRX and I was planning on buying some new wheels. I don't know much about it and was wondering if I could get some help. The wheel I'm currently looking at right now is the STR 601 18x8.5 +30. I know that the WRX stock has a +55 offset. I've seen a few cars running offsets in the 30s but I'm not sure what they did. If I want to get those wheels for my car, will I need to roll my fenders, change camber, etc? Please someone let me know. Thank you very much.
Excellent video, showed me everything I needed. While I went with IAG mounts instead, everything still applies.
For those just finding this video like me, I was able to do this on my garage floor with a standard floor jack and jack stands. That said, it was NOT easy (granted I am somewhat of a novice). It should be doable without removing the steering rack. I unbolted it but wasn't able to move it enough to be meaningful.
One hint is that, when it comes to moving the engine for the first time, 4 inches feels like A LOT. I'm pretty sure I had to go higher to get the left-side. Additionally, ensure the transmission mount is seated correctly before bolting everything back together. I did have to have someone help me shake the engine into place while lowering the jack. Feels weird, but it worked.
Good luck!
FYI to anyone that will be upgrading mounts themselves, the left engine mount is a pain in the ass to remove. Lift is a must! My buddy and I used two transmission jacks to help out with the removal/install.
Yep, I'm here right now on my garage floor looking for tips in the comments. I tried doing it without lowering the steering rack as some suggested, but looking to be impossible without here lol. Going to try that and if it doesn't work I'll just struggle until it does lol.
Thinking of doing this on my crosstrek, along with pitch stop, and trans mount/bushings. That car can't afford to lose any more power lol. Idk how I feel about doing this on Jack stands and a creeper...
Doing this on jack stands is a major PIA. but with patience it's doable. I didnt have to mess with the steering rack.
I almost did but the bolt finally broke loose for me. It's tight on the drivers side for sure. Stubby ratchet to the rescue...
May i ask why you didnt mess with the steering rack??
Thinking about these mounts after added power mods...
there is no need to drop the steering rack i did it
I wish I had a lift. Nice video!
No kidding :-(
+Blake's Garage I usually go to my local DIY shop on stuff that really needs a lift... pay hourly for a full lift, air tools and a full suite of tools. Check around your area, you may have one close by
i changed them without a lift just floor jack
Getting that driver side mount out omg kill me
I'm being completely honest when I say this the install for this was worse than the entire STI transmission swap.
In my opinion, motor mounts are the reason pitch stops fail. because all that motion is flexed due to the weak stock mounts.... just doing your motor mounts should generally make the powertrain and drivetrain reliable, no need for upgraded pitchstop or trans mount.
or just do it all for 445$ lol and not worry about ANY of it?
I just want the added vibration the mods will add honestly
can u guys make a pre cut black vinyl for the front lip of the bumper (s207 style). i like to dip the middle part of the front lip, but i would rather have vinyl. if u guys could make one pre cut, that would be awesome!!!
Maybe if you buy a sheet of polyurethane and cut a square to put between the mount and the frame you can reduce the nvh. Anyone agree ?
I didn't use the spacers, what does that mean?
Is it mandatory for the steering rack bracket and bolts to be removed? Or does that make it a little easier? Can it be done without removal of the rack mounting?
Just a follow up to my own question. I did the group n mounts and I found dropping the rack is so much easier getting the two motor mount bolts. It's probably possible to do it with the rack still in place but I can imagine how much more difficult it would have been.
@@nabaddame5726 Did you take it out completely or just remove the bolts? I'm messing with this right now and even after removing the brackets it doesnt move much
@@grassbag1 no didn't take the rack out completely. Just removed all of the rack bolts and the brackets. Just make sure u disconnect your battery before trying to jack up the motor just in case anything touches where it shouldn't. I was able to get about 3-4" of clearance to remove the motor mount bolts. Get a extended and regular ratcheting wrench. I think the last time I did it I use the harbor freight go thru socket set. It was $20...should still be around there now and worked perfectly.
@@nabaddame5726 Thanks. Getting the bolts off was a pain but getting the actual mount out was the most difficult. I have killer b headers with external wastegates, as well as an STI trans which is making everything a pain since there's less room
What car years do you have to apply the spacers on the rear bolts? I have an 07 and the mounts went on with no issues without the spacers and the angle for the cross-member bolt was correct. Am I missing something?
the spacers are only for the 2015 and newer WRX
This guy is an edeyat
Are you using the factory exhaust manifolds on this car, or have you upgraded them? My '16 limited is on order, so I haven't seen the underside in person....should be finished in a few weeks. Also, is there some reason why you never use air tools?
What about sti vids? Is it the same as the wrx?
I'm picking up my 2016 wrx wrb on monday with 12 miles on her. Would you recommend doing the break in of 1,000 miles or open it up when you get her and ride her hard to seal everything?
Break it in properly, what I mean is follow the owners manual, under 4,000 rpm for first 1,000 mi and don't use cruise control
Flatfoot shift out of the lot. What could go wrong?
In the instructions from Perrin it says when you drop the motor mount into the subframe to make sure it's centered left to right. You didn't touch on this part. Can you clarify? Seems like there's a lot of room for error on that car and the mounts may not sit at the correct position.
I've installed the Torque Solutions mounts and can assume they are similar to Perrin's... when you lower the engine you will most likely
have to persuade it into position. Get the studs near the frame and see where they line up in relation to the slot. Then grab the engine and shake, rattle, push, shove and repeat till the engine is where you want it. left to right is easy. Front to back takes a bit of effort.
If you miss just jack it back up a bit and shake it some more.
Since you are messing with the steering rack. Do you recommend an alignment after the install?
+Ryan Meyer As long as you bolt everything back in it's place you shouldn't need an alignment.
Do you need to replace the steering rack bolts with new ones
@@nabaddame5726 No
If we're going to do pitch stop, transmission, and engine mounts, which order would be optimal?
tough call. I'd say all at the same time tbh. But if i had to chose and order
1) engine
2) transmission
3) pitch stop
Hey guys thanks for all the videos but i was hoping to see some mods for a crosstrek im working on a 2013 crosstrek xv with a manual trans and looking to see what i can put on it thanks in advance
Oh man no ty for me. Daily driver and I'd like to actually lessen the NVM
I currently own a 2015 WRX and I was planning on buying some new wheels. I don't know much about it and was wondering if I could get some help. The wheel I'm currently looking at right now is the STR 601 18x8.5 +30. I know that the WRX stock has a +55 offset. I've seen a few cars running offsets in the 30s but I'm not sure what they did. If I want to get those wheels for my car, will I need to roll my fenders, change camber, etc? Please someone let me know. Thank you very much.
+Franz Worchestershire its gonna rub
+looopandlooop ok, will I need serious fender rolling? will i need a 10mm spacer? how do I resolve the issue?
get a wheel with +35 offset. anything lower than 35 will rub esp if ur running lowered suspension
+looopandlooop Damn, its hard to find a similar wheel to the str 601 with a higher positive offset than 30mm. Thanks for your help!
keep lookin brother
Protip. Set playback speed to x1.75
power tools anyone?
+bb65346 How are you supposed to get swole?!
Too much work with very little gain ...