Hey man, I hope you are still active on youtube. Like many other comments your videos are some of the best out there and you explanation is excellent. I have learned a lot about my new to me Honda 225 that I otherwise would not have known. You should totally keep making some videos. One question I have is, what advice you have for changing out your center shaft bearing? I believe mine is shot and will be pulling my lower unit to inspect as well as my impeller and gear casing water seals. Thank you again. Cheers.
Honda 40210-ZY3-610 Bush Vertical Shaft. Not in the manual but I agree video would be awesome. Essentially once the lower unit is removed you remove the retaining ring ( which sucks) along with the bushing itself. Mine came out easily because it came out in chunks, however I would assume you would need a bearing removal tool with a slide hammer to make the job easier. Hope this helps.
Thanks so much Sean! I just followed exactly as what you did and got mine done today. You are right, it is easier with two guys. Thanks again for your video, have a Merry Christmas and happy new year Sean!
Hey Sean, great video. Very thorough explanation of everything needed to replace the water pump. By any chance, do you have the rough dimensions of the lower unit stand in the video? I'd like to make one myself before I begin the service, but my boat is ~3 hours away. Thanks!
Thanks Capitan Sean for simple get to the point video. Should gear be in neutral when dropping the leg ? how do you keep the long shift tube in place when dropping the leg ? when I dropped my leg the shit link dropped and trying to putting back the leg with shift tub link keep dropping is a pain!! thanks for all your help.
Thanks for your videos Captain Sean. I have a '05 225hp Honda I'd like to extend from a XL to XXL shaft. I believe the parts I need are a longer driveshaft, shift shaft, water tube and spacer with longer studs. Does this sound like a complete parts list, and a realistic DIY project? Any tips on how to do it and things to look out for are welcome. I've heard from a couple people I may need to re-shim the lower unit. I did order the shop manual and I'm hoping that the procedure will be covered. Thanks!
hey Captain Sean. Great videos. Really helps me get work done on my Honda outboard. Can you tell me if my boat does not have a speedometer is it necessary to have the sensor nipple connected to the little rubber hose?
Brilliant video on the water pump replacement. Makes my job easy! Did you end up doing a video on internal anode replacement? I'm doing mine this time round with the water pump. Keep up the videos. thanks
Can you please some more videos on the honda 225? they are great helpful videos. Have you changed out exhaust anodes before? I think there are 2 on each side? Thanks
Hello Captain Sean, your videos are great! In reference to the water pump maintenance, I had the engines tuned by a mechanic and I commented to him that the previous mechanic said he had changed the impellers, but I was having cooling issues so I was sure he did not change the impeller. The current mechanic then told me that someone had serviced the lower unit because there was a Tie Wrap around the Shift Shaft which apparently was visible between the engine and the transom mount. He proceeded to tell me that that was to maintain the Shift Shaft in position. My question is this a necessary step. I don't know how to email you so I will monitor this video for a reply.
Hi Sean. Very good videos! Regarding the internal anodes on the 225, wondering if you have replaced them and if so was it just a matter of dropping the manifolds and more specifically did they go back into the exhausts ok when you refitted them back in. Would be great if you did a video as this is one service item with very limited info on the net.
I have done this and you're right, it should be my next video. They are important and corrode in salt water. I would very much recommend a new "o-ring" for the bottom of the manifold as well as the actual o-ring. The bottom one I think is found under the "Mount Case" in the parts catalog. Also, you'll need to order the manifold gasket as heat has usually degraded the one you'll pull out and if you try and re-use it (the way I re-use my intake manifold gaskets in other videos) it will weep water. A Honda rep recently opened me up to a product called Dynamic Descaler (haven't tried it yet) and he says it should get rid of a lot of salts (outside of but including NaCl) in your system since the flush on the dock doesn't always open the thermos and flush everywhere. Hope this helps for now.
Thanks for the servicing guides man, I got a BF135 so hopefully all the procedures will be similar. Also, do you need it to be in gear when you take the lower unit off? Cheers
I thought I replied to this but apparently I did not. You should be in neutral when you take off the gear case. It's easier to check the flat part of the shift shaft is straight forward than remembering which way the flat part moves for forward/reverse.
You are really thorough and that is appreciated. I just bought a boat with a 2006 bf225. How do you know when this maintenance needs to be done? What should I look for to determine if the pump or impeller is in need if replacement? Thanks again.
There should be an owner's manual you can buy online (I think the Honda site). Also, if you plan on doing your own maintenance I'd buy just the shop manual. (Honda site) They're very thorough and even help with troubleshooting problems. If your impeller is going bad your stream will be weak when your engine is running. If you do a reverse wash down and it's still weak (not running) then you probably just have some salt to clean out of the hole with some fishing line.
From a short look around online it looks like the 135hp models are extremely similar to the 225hp I have in the video. From the parts catalog online the water pump housing looks the same but has some parts around it that are slightly different.
I have a question for you I know this is an old post but I’m getting ready to do the impeller on my Honda outboard I’m just wondering what gear did you have this motor in or was it neutral
Any hex head I usually avoid never seize. These are large enough and made out of quality steel so I don't never seize them. I have seen too much never seize, like our rear brake caliper fell off on our truck when one of our captains put way too much on one of the bolts and it worked it's way out while towing down the road. That being said, I have never seen a bolt back out from never seize on any part that encounters large amounts of salt water (like lower unit mounting bolts or, for us, trailer lug nuts).
A perfect guide, just done each step on the video and changed impeller without visiting service ) Cool! Quick question: what happens if I turn the vertical shaft counter-clockwise during installation of the housing? Engine gets no cooling or impeller pin has a short life due to work overloaded?
I think turning it counter clockwise should be fine in reality. Honda makes quality impellers, changing after 2 years/2600 hours and not a piece missing any time for me. In theory, the shaft rotates clockwise putting the impeller the opposite direction will be jarring for the impeller fins being snapped to bend the opposite direction. I think these are quality enough that you will be fine, especially if you turn it on and it's "pissing" a stream nice and strong.
I have two 225s and have to push around 24 people so we may end up with quite different needs as far as propellers go. I have 17" 4 blade props and I think 15.5 pitch. I think I researched forums like thehulltruth.com and such to try and figure out what size I would need.
Maybe I’m over thinking. When I lube rubber parts, I use a Silicone base grease. Petroleum base grease will attack and soften/swell the rubber. Silicone base grease is harmless to rubber. Think brake parts. Put any kind of petroleum base products in the master cylinder and you’ve ruined/contaminated the brake system. Sil-glide has always been what I use. It’s nice for lubing seals and orings too. And a little antiseize will help for the next removal. Especially in a salt environment.
Capt. Sean, I have a 50hp Honda which I am replacing the gear case. There is a #10 tube that I am also replacing. On one end is a #15 sensor nipple and the other side is an #8 end nipple. one side of the end nipple does not have a hole in it. I thought this tube was for water cooling. But, apparently not. Can you confirm that this end nipple has a closed side? Thanks.
I'm not too familiar with the 50 hp series and I don't what you mean by #10 etc. However, I know on our models we have a speedometer tube by the lower unit. Ours has a cap on the tube since we use our GPS for speed on the display. Hopefully it's just a speedo tube but I can't confirm it for you.
Hi Sean is there anything to unlock before starting? my lower unit get loose by 1cm, and then stay completely stuck...It stay with this gap of 1cm but never go further... could it be stuck by something? it exactly the same engine as yours, just no spacer...
One thing I didn't mention is to make sure your shift lever is in neutral. Otherwise, if you remove the 6 bolts around the edge and the trim tab by the prop (along with the nut below it) I think it should come off. Sounds like corrosion somewhere. I wish I filmed how long it took me to get it off because it was a lot of hard hitting with the wood block. If it comes loose by 1cm (and is that gap all the way around) I'd say you got all the bolts/nut.
I have a 2017 bf225. I managed to reinstall the gear selector shaft 180* out. The throttle seems really really stiff in neutral. I was hesitant to push any harder. I dropped the lower unit, removed the impeller housing and base so that I could pull that gear selector seal. Now the gear selector shaft is hung up. I thought I could lift it out and rotate so the flat is facing forward. Is there something else that must be removed before the gear selector can be pulled and rotated?
I consulted the manual just in case. I have never done this so I can only tell you what I would do, not necessarily what to do, as I'm not there or know exactly what the scenario is. I'd probably grab a towel (so as not to mangle the teeth) and see if I could rotate the shaft clockwise/counterclockwise to get it out. The trouble there is knowing if you've put it into gear by doing so. In the end, the flat part of the shift shaft has to be forward and the turning of the drive shaft doesn't turn the propeller shaft.
I never have had to. From my research in forums and articles, people seem to think most of the wear and tear of timing belts comes from starting (the crankshaft pulley using the belt to move the cams, etc) so I would think it depends on your use. My anecdotal experience with other companies in Hawaii, they've never had it happen before something else breaks the engine. I'm sure it happens, just haven't heard of it here from any other companies. Doesn't seem Honda has a swap date like cars, just says to check every year or 200 hrs.
Do you mean vst? If it's your vapor separator tank its connected to your high pressure pump (which is right behind the lower/green filter in the video) At least, that's where it is on these 225s.
Per Shop Manual "Tighten the castle nut to the specified torque((1 N*m). If the split pin cannot be set, tighten the nut additionally until the split pin can be set. Max torque 44N*m). I'm not sure that I was the most specific on these points but I don't think I deserve this blowback with exclamation points George.
The gear shift rod near the power head yeah? Not sure how that could happen with regards to the water pump. That tube sits all on its own as you see in the video and any excess pressure wouldn't shoot up the rod to the powerhead. I'd look for a leak elsewhere in the engine. Besides, the shift rod to the powerhead has another coupling outside of the cowling with yet another seal to block water entry into the powerhead area.
![มองหน้ากันไม่ติด (Awkward) - โอ๊ต ปราโมทย์ FEAT. MAIYARAP [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4b02SY_r6Gw/mqdefault.jpg)
thank you very much for the video, everything in detail makes it looks easier than we assumed!🎉
Hey man, I hope you are still active on youtube. Like many other comments your videos are some of the best out there and you explanation is excellent. I have learned a lot about my new to me Honda 225 that I otherwise would not have known.
You should totally keep making some videos. One question I have is, what advice you have for changing out your center shaft bearing? I believe mine is shot and will be pulling my lower unit to inspect as well as my impeller and gear casing water seals.
Thank you again. Cheers.
Honda 40210-ZY3-610 Bush Vertical Shaft. Not in the manual but I agree video would be awesome. Essentially once the lower unit is removed you remove the retaining ring ( which sucks) along with the bushing itself. Mine came out easily because it came out in chunks, however I would assume you would need a bearing removal tool with a slide hammer to make the job easier. Hope this helps.
Man that was a great video. I have done several impeller replacements, but never on the larger honda, so thanks for that.
Thanks for the video, I'm about to attempt this on twin 2005 BF200s so I appreciate you publishing this.
Great video, made the job super fast and easy to understand. Thanks!
Superb video. Appreciate your efforts.
Great instruction, now I can do myself and save a lot of money!
Thanks so much Sean! I just followed exactly as what you did and got mine done today. You are right, it is easier with two guys. Thanks again for your video, have a Merry Christmas and happy new year Sean!
I really like your vids , you know what your talking about - thank you
Aloha from Molokai! Your vids are super helpful thanks
Great vid Sean! Can you do one on changing tilt trim grease and Maitenence please
Hey Sean, great video. Very thorough explanation of everything needed to replace the water pump. By any chance, do you have the rough dimensions of the lower unit stand in the video? I'd like to make one myself before I begin the service, but my boat is ~3 hours away. Thanks!
Thanks for the video mate
Thanks Capitan Sean for simple get to the point video. Should gear be in neutral when dropping the leg ? how do you keep the long shift tube in place when dropping the leg ? when I dropped my leg the shit link dropped and trying to putting back the leg with shift tub link keep dropping is a pain!! thanks for all your help.
Thank you for the video. can you show one how to change the thermostat please, thank you.
Thanks my friend :)
Thanks for your videos Captain Sean. I have a '05 225hp Honda I'd like to extend from a XL to XXL shaft. I believe the parts I need are a longer driveshaft, shift shaft, water tube and spacer with longer studs. Does this sound like a complete parts list, and a realistic DIY project? Any tips on how to do it and things to look out for are welcome. I've heard from a couple people I may need to re-shim the lower unit. I did order the shop manual and I'm hoping that the procedure will be covered. Thanks!
hey Captain Sean. Great videos. Really helps me get work done on my Honda outboard. Can you tell me if my boat does not have a speedometer is it necessary to have the sensor nipple connected to the little rubber hose?
Brilliant video on the water pump replacement. Makes my job easy! Did you end up doing a video on internal anode replacement? I'm doing mine this time round with the water pump. Keep up the videos. thanks
if you could make that video of the seals from the prop and the vertical shaft would be cool
Can you please some more videos on the honda 225? they are great helpful videos. Have you changed out exhaust anodes before? I think there are 2 on each side?
Thanks
Great videos as usual. Can you make a video about thermostats? Changing and testing. Regards
Thank you for the great video! Perfect!!!
Great video , just one small thing the pin in Castle nut is not a cotter pin, it's a Split Pin.
Ah thank you. It even says split pin in the manual I read beforehand. Good catch
Hello Captain Sean, your videos are great! In reference to the water pump maintenance, I had the engines tuned by a mechanic and I commented to him that the previous mechanic said he had changed the impellers, but I was having cooling issues so I was sure he did not change the impeller. The current mechanic then told me that someone had serviced the lower unit because there was a Tie Wrap around the Shift Shaft which apparently was visible between the engine and the transom mount. He proceeded to tell me that that was to maintain the Shift Shaft in position. My question is this a necessary step. I don't know how to email you so I will monitor this video for a reply.
Hi Sean. Very good videos!
Regarding the internal anodes on the 225, wondering if you have replaced them and if so was it just a matter of dropping the manifolds and more specifically did they go back into the exhausts ok when you refitted them back in.
Would be great if you did a video as this is one service item with very limited info on the net.
I have done this and you're right, it should be my next video. They are important and corrode in salt water. I would very much recommend a new "o-ring" for the bottom of the manifold as well as the actual o-ring. The bottom one I think is found under the "Mount Case" in the parts catalog. Also, you'll need to order the manifold gasket as heat has usually degraded the one you'll pull out and if you try and re-use it (the way I re-use my intake manifold gaskets in other videos) it will weep water. A Honda rep recently opened me up to a product called Dynamic Descaler (haven't tried it yet) and he says it should get rid of a lot of salts (outside of but including NaCl) in your system since the flush on the dock doesn't always open the thermos and flush everywhere. Hope this helps for now.
Thanks for the servicing guides man, I got a BF135 so hopefully all the procedures will be similar. Also, do you need it to be in gear when you take the lower unit off? Cheers
I thought I replied to this but apparently I did not. You should be in neutral when you take off the gear case. It's easier to check the flat part of the shift shaft is straight forward than remembering which way the flat part moves for forward/reverse.
Thanks! Did you ever do a vertical shaft video?
Great video
Great videos- how about how to replace the internal anodes?
You are really thorough and that is appreciated. I just bought a boat with a 2006 bf225. How do you know when this maintenance needs to be done? What should I look for to determine if the pump or impeller is in need if replacement? Thanks again.
There should be an owner's manual you can buy online (I think the Honda site). Also, if you plan on doing your own maintenance I'd buy just the shop manual. (Honda site) They're very thorough and even help with troubleshooting problems. If your impeller is going bad your stream will be weak when your engine is running. If you do a reverse wash down and it's still weak (not running) then you probably just have some salt to clean out of the hole with some fishing line.
I have a 2011 Honda BF 135hp, will that be the same set up removal & installation of water pump?
From a short look around online it looks like the 135hp models are extremely similar to the 225hp I have in the video. From the parts catalog online the water pump housing looks the same but has some parts around it that are slightly different.
Hey Capt Sean, just curious if the impeller direction changes if you have a counter-rotating prop? Thank you.
Nope, the counter rotating happens in the gears in lower unit below the water pump.
thanks!
I have a question for you I know this is an old post but I’m getting ready to do the impeller on my Honda outboard I’m just wondering what gear did you have this motor in or was it neutral
Great video thank you. Shud i never seize grease on the bolts when re installing? Thanks
Any hex head I usually avoid never seize. These are large enough and made out of quality steel so I don't never seize them. I have seen too much never seize, like our rear brake caliper fell off on our truck when one of our captains put way too much on one of the bolts and it worked it's way out while towing down the road. That being said, I have never seen a bolt back out from never seize on any part that encounters large amounts of salt water (like lower unit mounting bolts or, for us, trailer lug nuts).
@@captainsean4851 Great Thanks for the reply appreciate the help!!
A perfect guide, just done each step on the video and changed impeller without visiting service ) Cool! Quick question: what happens if I turn the vertical shaft counter-clockwise during installation of the housing? Engine gets no cooling or impeller pin has a short life due to work overloaded?
I think turning it counter clockwise should be fine in reality. Honda makes quality impellers, changing after 2 years/2600 hours and not a piece missing any time for me. In theory, the shaft rotates clockwise putting the impeller the opposite direction will be jarring for the impeller fins being snapped to bend the opposite direction. I think these are quality enough that you will be fine, especially if you turn it on and it's "pissing" a stream nice and strong.
Hi Sean.. What size of propeller you have on the 225hp. I have a single and need more stearn lift /hole shot. Thank you!
I have two 225s and have to push around 24 people so we may end up with quite different needs as far as propellers go. I have 17" 4 blade props and I think 15.5 pitch. I think I researched forums like thehulltruth.com and such to try and figure out what size I would need.
Good video thank you
타이밍밸트 교체방법도 올려주세요
혼다 225마력
Great vid. What kind of grease does Honda recommend?
grease is molybdenum based. they should carry the honda grease at a lot of outboard dealerships. otherwise just use marine grease
Maybe I’m over thinking. When I lube rubber parts, I use a Silicone base grease. Petroleum base grease will attack and soften/swell the rubber. Silicone base grease is harmless to rubber. Think brake parts. Put any kind of petroleum base products in the master cylinder and you’ve ruined/contaminated the brake system. Sil-glide has always been what I use. It’s nice for lubing seals and orings too. And a little antiseize will help for the next removal. Especially in a salt environment.
Capt. Sean, I have a 50hp Honda which I am replacing the gear case. There is a #10 tube that I am also replacing. On one end is a #15 sensor nipple and the other side is an #8 end nipple. one side of the end nipple does not have a hole in it. I thought this tube was for water cooling. But, apparently not. Can you confirm that this end nipple has a closed side? Thanks.
I'm not too familiar with the 50 hp series and I don't what you mean by #10 etc. However, I know on our models we have a speedometer tube by the lower unit. Ours has a cap on the tube since we use our GPS for speed on the display. Hopefully it's just a speedo tube but I can't confirm it for you.
Hi Sean is there anything to unlock before starting? my lower unit get loose by 1cm, and then stay completely stuck...It stay with this gap of 1cm but never go further... could it be stuck by something? it exactly the same engine as yours, just no spacer...
One thing I didn't mention is to make sure your shift lever is in neutral. Otherwise, if you remove the 6 bolts around the edge and the trim tab by the prop (along with the nut below it) I think it should come off. Sounds like corrosion somewhere. I wish I filmed how long it took me to get it off because it was a lot of hard hitting with the wood block. If it comes loose by 1cm (and is that gap all the way around) I'd say you got all the bolts/nut.
I have a 2017 bf225. I managed to reinstall the gear selector shaft 180* out. The throttle seems really really stiff in neutral. I was hesitant to push any harder. I dropped the lower unit, removed the impeller housing and base so that I could pull that gear selector seal. Now the gear selector shaft is hung up. I thought I could lift it out and rotate so the flat is facing forward. Is there something else that must be removed before the gear selector can be pulled and rotated?
I consulted the manual just in case. I have never done this so I can only tell you what I would do, not necessarily what to do, as I'm not there or know exactly what the scenario is. I'd probably grab a towel (so as not to mangle the teeth) and see if I could rotate the shaft clockwise/counterclockwise to get it out. The trouble there is knowing if you've put it into gear by doing so. In the end, the flat part of the shift shaft has to be forward and the turning of the drive shaft doesn't turn the propeller shaft.
Hi.Can i get dimension for lower unit holder that you have,Wooden one.THANKS
Have you ever changed a timing belt? When should it be changed?
I never have had to. From my research in forums and articles, people seem to think most of the wear and tear of timing belts comes from starting (the crankshaft pulley using the belt to move the cams, etc) so I would think it depends on your use. My anecdotal experience with other companies in Hawaii, they've never had it happen before something else breaks the engine. I'm sure it happens, just haven't heard of it here from any other companies. Doesn't seem Honda has a swap date like cars, just says to check every year or 200 hrs.
Hi your videos are Exellent ,I need your help ,I have to clean out my vts unit can you advise me where is it situated Bf200a 1
Do you mean vst? If it's your vapor separator tank its connected to your high pressure pump (which is right behind the lower/green filter in the video) At least, that's where it is on these 225s.
You need to torque the castle nut on Hondas to specifications!!!If you do not you could end up spinning the propeller!
Per Shop Manual "Tighten the castle nut to the specified torque((1 N*m). If the split pin cannot be set, tighten the nut additionally until the split pin can be set. Max torque 44N*m). I'm not sure that I was the most specific on these points but I don't think I deserve this blowback with exclamation points George.
Thanks so much Cappy Sean, excellent video instructions and so helpful! So appreciated and helped me out immensely!
Propeller yamaha and honda work in both
I get water running up out of the gear shift rod...only on one engine! Something's wrong...
The gear shift rod near the power head yeah? Not sure how that could happen with regards to the water pump. That tube sits all on its own as you see in the video and any excess pressure wouldn't shoot up the rod to the powerhead. I'd look for a leak elsewhere in the engine. Besides, the shift rod to the powerhead has another coupling outside of the cowling with yet another seal to block water entry into the powerhead area.
P