Hi there...really appreciated your video. We are in a similar situation: we have am inground 15x32 pool that needed a LOT of topping off this hot summer evaporating it away some of its 17000 gallons...and our 62 gallon pressure tank only provides about 16.5 gallons drawdown (we have 40/60 cut in/off), and our outside water faucet fills it at about 5 gallons per minute. So, the pump cycles about every 3 minutes which is not good. And the pump takes about 40 seconds to refill the pressure tank...which is also not good, since I've read it should take more than a minute. A well-drilling "pro" put this in for us assuring it would be adequate...but all that we've read afterwards has us thinking we need more capacity! According to your video, it looks like we can simply do the same with another ~60 gallon (or larger) tank and teeing it into the same 1 1/4" pipe serving the existing tank...making sure the bladder pressure is the same. I do have a question: when water is called for, can we assume that each tank will draw down at its own rate? And we do not need another pressure switch, one will suffice? Theoretically, adding the same size tank should double our total drawdown to over 30 gallons, and the pump would then run for ~80 seconds to get both tanks back to 50 PSI. Is there a better way to help the pump? Many thanks!
I would do a much bigger tank if you are going to do it; it does not require much more money and has much more capacity. You only need one pressure switch; it will control both tanks and keep them both the same PSI, which will regulate the filling and emptying of the bladders; the one I added off the top of my head is 118 gal, plus the original small tank, hope this helps
Couple of things.if you change your pressure switch setting you MUST adjust your air pressure in the tanks.2 psi below cut in pressure.2.You dont have a total of the max gallons of the tank.The more air you put in the less water it holds.Its called bleed down.Other wise nice set up.I did the same and installed a 1.5 h.p. 15 gpm pump.works great.
Hey door gunner. I'm putting two exact same tanks in my set-up. It sounds like all I need is one pressure switch and pressure gauge, but I was going to also include a pressure relief valve and a couple of isolation valves in case I need to replace one tank or the other. Can you think of anything else I should include in the build?
Yes you are correct when adjusting the pressure switch you do adjust the tank pressure but all he did was add another tank adding a tank does not give you more PSI without adjusting the switch accordingly and the air pressure so yes it's not a true volume increase by the tank size most tanks are rated on the equivalent drawdown anyway
If you're sprinkler system was designed correctly then the pump would run constantly when the each zone is on. The off and on cost pump wear and higher electric cost. Adding another tank doesn't add psi
With the extra volume set you pressure switch to on at 50 off at 60 or if higher( if you know how to read your pump manual) if you don’t understand pressure vs water flow don’t mess with the upper end pressure , pipes size as larger as possible through out your system, I hope this will work. Also this is your own risk…there are things that can go wrong.
@@dadsworld5084 correct the magic word, illusion… so you could’ve gotten rid of the little tank cause it’s not really doing much for you anyways trust me the big tank is all you needed… it’s all about having your pump run less so you don’t burn it up as fast… the pressure is always gonna be the same. It’s just gonna take longer for you to run out of pressure water before the pump kicks on
Correct; however maintaining longer, higher pressure helps with irrigation and large water needs and prevents bottoming out of pressure more often and short pump cycles.
First of all, it's all about pump volume. You enjoy (as others have commented as well) a high pump volume. (gallons per minute) Where I'm located, an average pump volume (2 inch deep well system), is maybe 3 gallons per minute. With your system , my pump would need to run for an hour just to fill all the capacity. 🙂 At some point, when the pump kicks on...you are only running off the pump.! I obviously could not run all of what you are running as it would exceed my pump volume and the pump would cavitate. It is therefore important to know what your pump volume is as you can put 5 pressure tanks in, but... at some point, you are running on the pump. There is nothing free here especially if the yield (volume) is low.
This is true, which goes back to how deep your well is; if it is 400 feet deep, you already start off with a high volume of the reserve vs. a 30 ft deep well. Most people's wells are over 10Gal per min. However, if you have a slow well, you must calculate how much is in the pipe from the depth of your well; this will give you how long it takes to refill to ensure you do not cavitate your well.
Super instructive video for those of us who don't know jack about this stuff - thank you!!! I have one initial question, though. When you say, just make sure the pump pressure between the two tanks is the same, can you explain that to me as if I am a four year old. You said yours were clones. How would I correct the issue if they were not the same? My sister and I are getting ready to install a 1 HP Stainless Steel Shallow Well Pump with factory included Tank with Pressure Control Switch - 950 GPH. I want to add an additional tank, to increase time between on pump run cycles when water is being used and provide good, continuous pressure for times when water is being used for longer periods (Ie showers and washer cycles). Thank you, again, for the great video!!
You do not know what you are talking about. Adding tanks gives you volume and not more pressure. You could add 300 tanks and your pressure will stay the same. You don’t understand how it works.
Another thing for your sub pump use poly pipe. It Farley cheap. In the house. Don't use copper because it will stain the tub over time. Don't use galvanized or black. The best I think cpvc pipe. With shark bits at the joints to last longer
What determines you having a 40 to 60 PSI setting on the well system Rich ?? What is the pressure inside the pressure tank you are using ??? How about the cost of the small pressure tank and the large pressure tank ?? I like your video Sir
the 40 -60 is a switch that goes on the system that relies to the pump when it must kick on and kick off and can be adjusted some in each direction if needed, the tanks have 46 pods in each and it important to have the same in each if running in parallel like I have done, however they also can be adjusted but most of the time it is not needed. I got the small 35 gal tank with the well install in 2016, and bought the other from Home Depot, at the time it cost around 4-5 hundred off the top of my head, took another 10 mins to install and gave me a very long pressure cycle. Hope this helps you. Basically gives a large volume of water per cycle! Helped a ton with my large irrigation system I put on my house and 4 showers that I can run at same time if needed!
I understand what you have stated to me Sir. What I am still fuzzy on is which pressure is best for a home system to operate on PSI wise ?? Thanks@@dadsworld5084
I have done a fair amount of research on this and it is my understanding that the way you have it hooked up is incorrect. My understanding is that you need to have two similar sized tanks and the inlet needs to be in the middle of the two tanks.
Well, it has been running great since 2016 or so, and that is another way of doing it. However, they do not have to be the same size tanks, which defeats the purpose of using an old tank; they just need to have the same pressure in each.
Water volume doesn't change the flow rate once the pressure drops down to the pump cut in your flow and pressure are all provided by the pump so nothing has changed. Is a bigger tank better?... Yes it is but for high volume use like a sprinkler system you might need a bigger pump.
All that bigger or more tanks do is lengthen the time of cycle. If you want to reduce that number to one cycle per demand and maintain a true constant pressure then look into a cycle stop valve. You could have saved hundreds on that big tank, and have a more on demand higher pressure straight from your pump.
Thanks for the advice; however, pumps typically wear out with starting and stopping vs. long run times, so it is techna=ically better to have a longer run time vs. start and stop every other minute. Pumps are expensive to change do to being in the ground vs. a tank above ground. However, that is another way to increase pressure, and I appreciate the advice as always!
You do not need a pump change to use a Cycle Stop Valve. Using one allows for no more than 1 pump cycle per demand. You are correct that cycling on/off is the biggest killer of pumps. No matter how big of tank you use, or how many you tee together, long term water uses will cycle your pump more than once.
@@kjellg6532 Yes there is doubt on YT, but coming from people who have never used a CSV or an amp meter to check if it is efficient or not. You do not even have to manually check if you look at the pump curves and do the math. The proof is all there in writing from the pump manufacturers. People who make YT videos spreading doubt on information that has been proven for over 50years are doing it for the attention. They do not know anything about pumps.
@@samualosten5212 With a constant pressure valve, and flow switch added to an old on/off solution in leu of a CSV, you can build a system that starts at and maintain set constant pressure, while a CSV will drop down to starting pressure before the pump starts, and with full pressure when opening a faucet. A home made solution will outrun the CSV.
do you hve a pressure release valve? if not you should put one in. also do you hve a one way valve inline before the pressure switch? if not you should put one. i figured since everyone else is telling you how you should do something different with your setup, although its working for you. I'd put in my 2 cents
It is a one way inline valve coming in, I do not however have a pressure relief valve just a 40/60 switch. Not a bad idea in case of a freak high pressure chance. Thanks for the advice
Is that a lower level garage, umconditioned space outside the building envelope? Or a basement? Trying to figure out why there is insulation between the joists.
Yes, and if you happen to start shower when that huge tank is empty, you must wait for a long, long time for pump to gain pressure in the tank. You do not get any more pressure. Only difference in run times for the pump.
You should never put ANY Shut off or Restrictions before the Auto Pressure Switch. If someone, “a kid,” shuts the valve. Then when the pump kicks on, it will either blow a fitting up apart, or burn the pump up. No Sediment Filters in this area, either. Also I highly recommend the Auto Pressure Switch with the Manual Reset Lever, if a pipe burst and/or the pump cannot keep up, it will lock out the pump, preventing further damage.
As a residential plumber this is not helpful lol volume doesn't give you pressure We measure well tanks by the cut on draw time not pressure. Please call someone that does this for a living
They sure are, I installed the big blue because it only reduces PSI of pressure by 1 instead of 10 psi due to 20Inch size. Pretty cheap overall; it's 50 or 60 bucks; filters are 50-60 bucks for 2 last year. Take a lot of minerals and other things out of the well. It probably took me 15 minutes to install. It's pretty easy, and I can make a basic overview video if you like. You can even go with higher filtration than the 10 microns I use. But probably will need to change every 4 instead of 6 months due to the small tolerance on filters. It takes me about 60 secs to change a filter really easily.
So we just shut off our water to install a water line to our new fridge..now we can’t get hardly any water pressure..we tried running faucets to see if there was air in the line, tried finding the pressure regulator switch but the one on our tank doesn’t look like the typical bell looking one with the but you adjust..we did get the pressure to go back up to 30 psi but that’s the highest we can get it..
Have a question. We share a well with our neighbors It was set up that way years ago. The well is on their property and the pressure tank is over there too. We have low water pressure. What can I do to get higher pressure?
Thank you for the idea.. Now when we turn on the washing machine on downstairs we don’t get any water at the kitchen faucet upstairs ! How can I remedy that issue ? Please let me know..
I have no idea without seeing how the piping is going; adding a pressure tank would not affect these two separate issues; it sounds like you are getting a drain of water in one direction for some reason, and the other is siphoning off from one or stealing. Water coming into your house would affect all issues the same way, not individual ones like this; you could check the pressure to make sure you have enough going to run both, which should never be a problem. however, it's a starting point.
I have a small 36 gallon tank in my well house, approximately 100 ft of 1” line from well house to my home, I get excellent water pressure when I use any faucet, but when I use two, say I flush the toilet and wash my hands the pressure drops when using two fixtures could adding a larger tank help this issue I am experiencing? I have have checked pressure in my tank and checked my pump it cuts in at 30 and off at 60 and both are working perfectly
Adding another larger tank in tandem won't hurt for sure and can only help give a larger reserve. However, you shouldn't have that big of a drop from 1 facet to another when only running two teams in a house. In the short term, however, if you only have a small line coming off your 1-inch line feeding your facet and toilet in tandem, this might account for your lack of pressure since a tiny 1/2-inch line still only gives so much flow if that is what it is off the 1 inch which I am guessing.
What pressure do I need to get more pressure. How does the water get in the tank. I don’t know what to do to increase pressure. It is a big tank for water irrigation.
The pump does the pressure, and the tank is a reservoir. It can be for home or irrigation; the more extensive the reservoir, the less the pump has to kick on. The longer you get steady pressure, the more consistent the flow!
You need to take a look at your pump gpm rating. If your drawing more volume than your pump can flow your pressure will drop. What you can do is get a bucket and time how long it takes to fill one gallon of water and compare that time to what your pump is rated for. After that combine usage like how much does a washing machine require and how much flow is needed when taking a shower or running 2 showers and a washing machine at the same time. Then you'll have a good idea what pump is required.
What size is your well pump. Running a new pipe is not that hard you have a drop on size of pipes that causes a restriction. You can do the submersible pump yourself with the size of the blater tank you might be putting to much pressure on itthew bigger one looks like what I want run. With as many bathrooms and striker zones. I would start of with inch and a quarter pipe with a one horse pump as far as the sprinkler run inch an a quarter or one inch to a manorfold that might break down to half inch
Can you add the second tank after the filtration system but right before the water heater split? is it necessary to fit this tank right next to the existing one? Thank you
Typically you would want them to run right after each other; you could always put the tank in another place but pipe it back to the connection point if you are area limited.
Technically it does not matter how many items you have on the well; it would increase your overall ready supply to all of the above. This is how it gives the appearance of higher flow for longer times.
i seen this video some time ago, as o have the same small tank and with all mu livestock tanks on float valves if many are being used water presser drops in house so i bought the biggest tank i could an hooked it up the same way an set air presser the same in both, only my small tank fills, nothing go into the new big tank at all, i can rock the tank, lift it up so i know nothing in it, have you checked yours, i am thinking it has to be hooked up on the pump side of the small tank before the presser switch..
They need to be run past the pressure switch, and in parallel. Should be no reason that it won't fill up as there is only one way it can go; if it is not filling, I wonder if somehow you have a bad bladder in the tank? Never had one that won't fill up. If both tanks didn't fill, that would be a pump or switch, but one filling and the other not is odd if hooked up correctly.
@@dadsworld5084ye yes i hoked them up as you showed , the small tank always fills an the big tank is new and will not fill at all, it like its air locked totally, i even put a ball valve on a tee at the inlet to bleed an nothing enters. yet i unhook the small one an put the brass tee with switch into the big one and it fills, no small attached..
@@arnoldromppai5395 Sounds like you need to switch out the big tank from where you bought it. Is there something in the hole of that tank what brand is it?
Your washing machine should not take enough water to empty a tank/well. Do you have the same problem with showering or other activities? If you do, I would be concerned your well is not producing enough water or GPM.
Maybe the washer has a leaking fill valve. Those are pretty standard solenoid valve assemblies with a solenoid for hot and a solenoid valve for cold. Mine had a valve that wouldn't turn off. To check this see if a warm wash fills the tank higher than it should. A warm wash setting will check the fill valve for hot and the fill valve for cold water at the same time. The fill valve part is cheap and easy to change if that is your problem.
The larger the tank size the longer the cycle times; pumps have it hardest when they kick on and off, and actual runtime is not bad on them. I have large 17 zones with 5 heads a zone and I get about 5-6 mins of run time and off time, give or tank, on my system.
@@dadsworld5084 wow 17 zones 😮 that’s a lot of pipes! If you don’t mind me asking why only 5 pop ups per zone? I was hoping I could put 10-15 per zone once I start putting my system in.
well, my well refresh rate was only 12 Gal per minute; if I had more like 20gal a min or more, I could have easily put in like 7-9 per zone, but since there is only so much water in reserve to pump I had to slow the volume going out. Take a look at your well head; it has a metal stamp per code that says how many gals per min, 12 is okay 20 is very good, 5 or fewer stinks; also, you can pull from your county how deep your well is and at what water level this lets you know how much water is in the pipe to begin with, my well is 132 ft deep, water at 38ft, with 12 gal refresh rate per minute.
Gotcha. Not sure about my well volume yet. I had a local man put it in . I’m on sandy ground so he just washed it down if I remember correctly it’s only 20 feet deep and he hit good water supply at about 13’. It’s got a 2” well pipe.
Good info. I share a well with 2 other cabins and my cabin is about 30 feet higher in elevation than the well. When the 3rd cabin tapped into the well, my upstairs shower barely drips, even when the other 2 cabins are not in use. Main floor and basement showers are good, and the pressure in the well house is set at 75 psi. Can I put a second pressure tank in my cabin basement (about 150 feet uphill from the well) to increase my water pressure and availability?
Good Question, typically you would want to run them side by side before it goes to all 3 cabins so that the pressure can maintain equal pressure throughout the system, I would see if I could go back to the source near the tank to put it personally if possible, al the cabins will enjoy more pressure, it does seem strange that only your top floor ahs been affected since it is a sealed closed system you would think the pressure at one point is the same as the other points unless the pipe diameter feeding your top shower is decreased to let less flow through to it. I could see a decrease if all cabins were taking showers at the same point but that seems storage to me that even with no draw there is an issue. Do you know how much the well produces per minute and how big a pump is in it? By providing a secondary tank that is much bigger and running it in parallel it will provide a larger reserve of water and more consistent pressure no matter what typically.
No. You would need a booster pump. With a second tank adding just tank would do nothing. Tanks do not provide pressure your pump does. Take a look into cycle stop valves to save your money on a big tank that usually last about 5 years before the bladder breaks.
@@dadsworld5084 It does not matter where tje tanks are, the pressure is the same and water is fed from any tank. Mind though, you lose 1 bar in pressure per 10 meter elevation.
Tanks do not provide pressure. Your pump does. Tanks just hold water. If you want constant pressure you might want to take a look into cycle stop valves. This valve does not turn off the pump when it is in demand. You can go with the smallest tank ex 5 gallons. Adding a second tank will only increase your draw time.
Correct Tanks do not provide pressure; however, they maintain it on most systems in between pump cycles since the pumps generally run on 40-60 switches meaning cycles the bigger the tank, the more it holds steady pressure. The more reserve it will hold in between cycles. So. by having a higher reserve, you maintain longer continuous pressure and generally have a much better system; there are other ways to get steady pressure; however, they are usually much more expensive and cannot be done without a good company. Tanks should last much longer than 5 yrs; our correct ones have 7yrs on them, my last house is 10 yrs, and my other home in Florida, where the tanks sit in the sun, is 11 yrs. Remember, the better the tank, the longer it lasts! The two types in this video are typically some of the better ones and should provide numerous years of use.
it should have a max on the side of the tank, just in case you have separate brand tanks, the big thing is to just make sure they are the same pressure once installed, they will probably be close already, when pairing a large tank with the original tank it makes a massive difference in your water pressure for sustained periods of time like multiple showers, sprinklers, etc.
you will have to see on the tank recommendations, off the top of my head I think mine is 60psi, but just look on tank or tank specifics which you can google.
I may have missed something, but I am wondering what advantage this configuration makes over just replacing the 32 gallon tank with the 119 gallon one?
If you have the space for both, no real down side to having both, just more capacity. Myself, if i go bigger i would need to swap tank out. No more room where i have my tank at. In his case... could have 10 tanks
@@dadsworld5084 nope..all you get is the drawdown, not the total volume of the tanks. Look at the drawdown numbers and add them together. That'll give you the volume of water stored in the tanks.
Yes, you could, however, you would be wasting the small tank at this point, by running in parallel you get both tanks since you already own both pretty simple to run together.
It should give you more consistent pressure due to the large reservoir. Basically, if you have a 40/60 switch, you should have much longer cycles of closer to 60 psi without pumps turning on and off, which is much easier on the pump. By maintaining a more constant pressure at high ends, it gives the impression of higher pressure. .
With a lager tank you do not get any increase in pressure, only longer intervals in cycling of the pump. To increase pressure you must adjust the pressure switch. Then you are limited with what the pump can deliver.
So you did nothing and does not increase your water pressure at all. You have a bit more volume but not more pressure. And also you still have less then you think. Of gallons of water between the two tanks. If you know how they work with the air balder... Better luck next time bud....
Increased the amount of time he's on the high end of his pressure. Decreased his electricity costs. Extended the life of his well pump. He also has a backup if the bladder goes bad in one of his tanks. Critical thinking isn't your strong suit,is it?
@steve But when his tanks are low his well will have to pump longer to refill this much tank space. I believe not all pumps are designed for long periods of pumping. For example my well pumps about 12 gallons a minute. Having this much tank to fill would cause my pump to run longer than the pump recommended. I’m installing a 64 gallon tank. For my well pump that is on the larger size. If your water supply is enough a big pressure tank is awesome. If your water supply is a little weaker the big tank is going to burn out your well pump. My guess is this guy does have to much tank for his pump. An easy way to pick a tank size that I ran across is count your out puts and multiple by 3. I have 18. 18 x 3 = 54 I went with 64 gallon tank. This guy had something like 140 gallons. That enough pressure for 46 outputs.
Probably one of the most pessimistic posts I’ve ever seen, especially with the cocky Ender calling him bud. How about try to help rather than be a dick
Hi there...really appreciated your video. We are in a similar situation: we have am inground 15x32 pool that needed a LOT of topping off this hot summer evaporating it away some of its 17000 gallons...and our 62 gallon pressure tank only provides about 16.5 gallons drawdown (we have 40/60 cut in/off), and our outside water faucet fills it at about 5 gallons per minute. So, the pump cycles about every 3 minutes which is not good. And the pump takes about 40 seconds to refill the pressure tank...which is also not good, since I've read it should take more than a minute. A well-drilling "pro" put this in for us assuring it would be adequate...but all that we've read afterwards has us thinking we need more capacity! According to your video, it looks like we can simply do the same with another ~60 gallon (or larger) tank and teeing it into the same 1 1/4" pipe serving the existing tank...making sure the bladder pressure is the same.
I do have a question: when water is called for, can we assume that each tank will draw down at its own rate? And we do not need another pressure switch, one will suffice? Theoretically, adding the same size tank should double our total drawdown to over 30 gallons, and the pump would then run for ~80 seconds to get both tanks back to 50 PSI.
Is there a better way to help the pump? Many thanks!
I would do a much bigger tank if you are going to do it; it does not require much more money and has much more capacity. You only need one pressure switch; it will control both tanks and keep them both the same PSI, which will regulate the filling and emptying of the bladders; the one I added off the top of my head is 118 gal, plus the original small tank, hope this helps
SNAP! OUTTA MY WAY CHILD.. Get outta My shot... THIS IS DADS WORLD!
I was thinking of doing the same thing, your setup is very simple, good job.
has worked well for 6 yrs running
Couple of things.if you change your pressure switch setting you MUST adjust your air pressure in the tanks.2 psi below cut in pressure.2.You dont have a total of the max gallons of the tank.The more air you put in the less water it holds.Its called bleed down.Other wise nice set up.I did the same and installed a 1.5 h.p. 15 gpm pump.works great.
Hey door gunner. I'm putting two exact same tanks in my set-up. It sounds like all I need is one pressure switch and pressure gauge, but I was going to also include a pressure relief valve and a couple of isolation valves in case I need to replace one tank or the other. Can you think of anything else I should include in the build?
Good point!
Yes you are correct when adjusting the pressure switch you do adjust the tank pressure but all he did was add another tank adding a tank does not give you more PSI without adjusting the switch accordingly and the air pressure so yes it's not a true volume increase by the tank size most tanks are rated on the equivalent drawdown anyway
If you're sprinkler system was designed correctly then the pump would run constantly when the each zone is on. The off and on cost pump wear and higher electric cost. Adding another tank doesn't add psi
With the extra volume set you pressure switch to on at 50 off at 60 or if higher( if you know how to read your pump manual) if you don’t understand pressure vs water flow don’t mess with the upper end pressure , pipes size as larger as possible through out your system, I hope this will work. Also this is your own risk…there are things that can go wrong.
Good Advice
Hey you answered a question I had super fast and since I need to do this I went and gave you a sub! Cheers! #supportsmallchannels
appreciate it
A bigger tank DON’T INCREASE THE PRESSURE IT ONLY LET YOU TO USE MORE WATER BEFORE THE PUMP CUTS IN
Which gives the illusion of longer high-presser cycles.
@@dadsworld5084 correct the magic word, illusion… so you could’ve gotten rid of the little tank cause it’s not really doing much for you anyways trust me the big tank is all you needed… it’s all about having your pump run less so you don’t burn it up as fast… the pressure is always gonna be the same. It’s just gonna take longer for you to run out of pressure water before the pump kicks on
Correct; however maintaining longer, higher pressure helps with irrigation and large water needs and prevents bottoming out of pressure more often and short pump cycles.
Funny I didn’t hear him say it increased the pressure. He said it makes the pressure stay longer before the pump had to kick on
@@goinginsane37098 Look at the title of the video. Definitely misleading. Still a great idea to do, but is not going to "increase pressure"
First of all, it's all about pump volume. You enjoy (as others have commented as well) a high pump volume. (gallons per minute) Where I'm located, an average pump volume (2 inch deep well system), is maybe 3 gallons per minute. With your system , my pump would need to run for an hour just to fill all the capacity. 🙂 At some point, when the pump kicks on...you are only running off the pump.! I obviously could not run all of what you are running as it would exceed my pump volume and the pump would cavitate. It is therefore important to know what your pump volume is as you can put 5 pressure tanks in, but... at some point, you are running on the pump. There is nothing free here especially if the yield (volume) is low.
This is true, which goes back to how deep your well is; if it is 400 feet deep, you already start off with a high volume of the reserve vs. a 30 ft deep well. Most people's wells are over 10Gal per min. However, if you have a slow well, you must calculate how much is in the pipe from the depth of your well; this will give you how long it takes to refill to ensure you do not cavitate your well.
Great information Rich! 🤩🤩
anytime!
Super instructive video for those of us who don't know jack about this stuff - thank you!!! I have one initial question, though. When you say, just make sure the pump pressure between the two tanks is the same, can you explain that to me as if I am a four year old. You said yours were clones. How would I correct the issue if they were not the same? My sister and I are getting ready to install a 1 HP Stainless Steel Shallow Well Pump with factory included Tank with Pressure Control Switch - 950 GPH. I want to add an additional tank, to increase time between on pump run cycles when water is being used and provide good, continuous pressure for times when water is being used for longer periods (Ie showers and washer cycles). Thank you, again, for the great video!!
Well if your four year old and sleeping with you sister you have other things to thing about...
Many tanks have their own pressure. You set the pressure with and there’s a valve you add or take air pressure with
Great vid. You gave me a great idea for my country place. I will follow your recommendation
It works well, especially with a sprinkler system that draws a lot of your reserves, multiple showers, or a slow GPM from well. Hope it works for you!
Very informative.
Just wondering can I add a second tank in after the little dial gauge?
Thanks
you would need to pipe it in before it and make sure they are the same pressure, but technically you can add as many tanks as you can fit lol
@@dadsworld5084thank bud
You do not know what you are talking about. Adding tanks gives you volume and not more pressure. You could add 300 tanks and your pressure will stay the same. You don’t understand how it works.
Another thing for your sub pump use poly pipe. It Farley cheap. In the house. Don't use copper because it will stain the tub over time. Don't use galvanized or black. The best I think cpvc pipe. With shark bits at the joints to last longer
What determines you having a 40 to 60 PSI setting on the well system Rich ?? What is the pressure inside the pressure tank you are using ??? How about the cost of the small pressure tank and the large pressure tank ?? I like your video Sir
the 40 -60 is a switch that goes on the system that relies to the pump when it must kick on and kick off and can be adjusted some in each direction if needed, the tanks have 46 pods in each and it important to have the same in each if running in parallel like I have done, however they also can be adjusted but most of the time it is not needed. I got the small 35 gal tank with the well install in 2016, and bought the other from Home Depot, at the time it cost around 4-5 hundred off the top of my head, took another 10 mins to install and gave me a very long pressure cycle. Hope this helps you. Basically gives a large volume of water per cycle! Helped a ton with my large irrigation system I put on my house and 4 showers that I can run at same time if needed!
I understand what you have stated to me Sir.
What I am still fuzzy on is which pressure is best for a home system to operate on PSI wise ?? Thanks@@dadsworld5084
I have done a fair amount of research on this and it is my understanding that the way you have it hooked up is incorrect. My understanding is that you need to have two similar sized tanks and the inlet needs to be in the middle of the two tanks.
Well, it has been running great since 2016 or so, and that is another way of doing it. However, they do not have to be the same size tanks, which defeats the purpose of using an old tank; they just need to have the same pressure in each.
Water volume doesn't change the flow rate once the pressure drops down to the pump cut in your flow and pressure are all provided by the pump so nothing has changed. Is a bigger tank better?... Yes it is but for high volume use like a sprinkler system you might need a bigger pump.
Good video. Hold the camera to eye level so we aren't looking up your nose.
Thanks for the tip I appreciate it, Will try to get it a bit better next time, learning as I go!
Post more videos of those dogs and I will follow.
will do lol, just go some gear for a few dog cams, 2 boxers and a English mastiff keep me moving lol
This is awesome..What is your gal per min flow on the sprinklers
All that bigger or more tanks do is lengthen the time of cycle. If you want to reduce that number to one cycle per demand and maintain a true constant pressure then look into a cycle stop valve. You could have saved hundreds on that big tank, and have a more on demand higher pressure straight from your pump.
Thanks for the advice; however, pumps typically wear out with starting and stopping vs. long run times, so it is techna=ically better to have a longer run time vs. start and stop every other minute. Pumps are expensive to change do to being in the ground vs. a tank above ground. However, that is another way to increase pressure, and I appreciate the advice as always!
You do not need a pump change to use a Cycle Stop Valve. Using one allows for no more than 1 pump cycle per demand. You are correct that cycling on/off is the biggest killer of pumps. No matter how big of tank you use, or how many you tee together, long term water uses will cycle your pump more than once.
@@samualosten5212 There are some doubt regarding the efficiency of the Cycle stop valve. Look it up on YT.
@@kjellg6532 Yes there is doubt on YT, but coming from people who have never used a CSV or an amp meter to check if it is efficient or not. You do not even have to manually check if you look at the pump curves and do the math. The proof is all there in writing from the pump manufacturers. People who make YT videos spreading doubt on information that has been proven for over 50years are doing it for the attention. They do not know anything about pumps.
@@samualosten5212 With a constant pressure valve, and flow switch added to an old on/off solution in leu of a CSV, you can build a system that starts at and maintain set constant pressure, while a CSV will drop down to starting pressure before the pump starts, and with full pressure when opening a faucet. A home made solution will outrun the CSV.
do you hve a pressure release valve? if not you should put one in. also do you hve a one way valve inline before the pressure switch? if not you should put one. i figured since everyone else is telling you how you should do something different with your setup, although its working for you. I'd put in my 2 cents
It is a one way inline valve coming in, I do not however have a pressure relief valve just a 40/60 switch. Not a bad idea in case of a freak high pressure chance. Thanks for the advice
Is that a lower level garage, umconditioned space outside the building envelope? Or a basement? Trying to figure out why there is insulation between the joists.
I turned this Crawl space into a basement by digging out. Basically, a large workspace that stays 69-72 years round is encapsulated and insulated.
Yes, and if you happen to start shower when that huge tank is empty, you must wait for a long, long time for pump to gain pressure in the tank. You do not get any more pressure. Only difference in run times for the pump.
@4:10 every dad knows that snap lol
You should never put ANY Shut off or Restrictions before the Auto Pressure Switch. If someone, “a kid,” shuts the valve. Then when the pump kicks on, it will either blow a fitting up apart, or burn the pump up. No Sediment Filters in this area, either. Also I highly recommend the Auto Pressure Switch with the Manual Reset Lever, if a pipe burst and/or the pump cannot keep up, it will lock out the pump, preventing further damage.
You can have a sediment filter before it just make sure it’s changed periodically and it keeps the well junk out of the tank
Why not just take the small tank out?
It looks as though the original tank is a WX-202, which is only a 20 gallon tank, not a 32 gallon.
so basically added more water storage to allow the system to have better flow and more volume?
correct
As a residential plumber this is not helpful lol volume doesn't give you pressure
We measure well tanks by the cut on draw time not pressure.
Please call someone that does this for a living
double the check valve too.
Can the added presure tank be at a further location 100 feet away ?
well never went that far lol, but in theory if the tanks were the same PSI and the pressure switch farther down it would probably be fine.
Get a constant pressure pump and control box.
pretty pricey to get vs this
Rich, I see you have a water filter. Are those things really worth the aggravation of putting them in? Thanks. Jim
They sure are, I installed the big blue because it only reduces PSI of pressure by 1 instead of 10 psi due to 20Inch size. Pretty cheap overall; it's 50 or 60 bucks; filters are 50-60 bucks for 2 last year. Take a lot of minerals and other things out of the well. It probably took me 15 minutes to install. It's pretty easy, and I can make a basic overview video if you like. You can even go with higher filtration than the 10 microns I use. But probably will need to change every 4 instead of 6 months due to the small tolerance on filters. It takes me about 60 secs to change a filter really easily.
@@dadsworld5084 Rich: Fantastic and thanks for the reply. Sounds like an easy enough job without a lot of post install work.
yes, it is very easy and cheap overall and rewarding with great results! @@jimrhee4327
So we just shut off our water to install a water line to our new fridge..now we can’t get hardly any water pressure..we tried running faucets to see if there was air in the line, tried finding the pressure regulator switch but the one on our tank doesn’t look like the typical bell looking one with the but you adjust..we did get the pressure to go back up to 30 psi but that’s the highest we can get it..
Have a question. We share a well with our neighbors It was set up that way years ago. The well is on their property and the pressure tank is over there too. We have low water pressure. What can I do to get higher pressure?
Thank you for the idea.. Now when we turn on the washing machine on downstairs we don’t get any water at the kitchen faucet upstairs ! How can I remedy that issue ? Please let me know..
I have no idea without seeing how the piping is going; adding a pressure tank would not affect these two separate issues; it sounds like you are getting a drain of water in one direction for some reason, and the other is siphoning off from one or stealing. Water coming into your house would affect all issues the same way, not individual ones like this; you could check the pressure to make sure you have enough going to run both, which should never be a problem. however, it's a starting point.
I have a small 36 gallon tank in my well house, approximately 100 ft of 1” line from well house to my home, I get excellent water pressure when I use any faucet, but when I use two, say I flush the toilet and wash my hands the pressure drops when using two fixtures could adding a larger tank help this issue I am experiencing? I have have checked pressure in my tank and checked my pump it cuts in at 30 and off at 60 and both are working perfectly
Adding another larger tank in tandem won't hurt for sure and can only help give a larger reserve. However, you shouldn't have that big of a drop from 1 facet to another when only running two teams in a house. In the short term, however, if you only have a small line coming off your 1-inch line feeding your facet and toilet in tandem, this might account for your lack of pressure since a tiny 1/2-inch line still only gives so much flow if that is what it is off the 1 inch which I am guessing.
Go information
Where does the pump fit into the diagram? I am new to this, I want to understand.
Your pump is in your well pre-pressure tank
What pressure do I need to get more pressure. How does the water get in the tank. I don’t know what to do to increase pressure. It is a big tank for water irrigation.
The pump does the pressure, and the tank is a reservoir. It can be for home or irrigation; the more extensive the reservoir, the less the pump has to kick on. The longer you get steady pressure, the more consistent the flow!
You need to take a look at your pump gpm rating. If your drawing more volume than your pump can flow your pressure will drop. What you can do is get a bucket and time how long it takes to fill one gallon of water and compare that time to what your pump is rated for. After that combine usage like how much does a washing machine require and how much flow is needed when taking a shower or running 2 showers and a washing machine at the same time. Then you'll have a good idea what pump is required.
This is all great, if you have space for it. My tank is in my crawlspace which I’m able to only have a 20 gallon tank, so I added two 20 gallon tanks.
You can do that. They also make a short fat tank, but I cant remember the brand for people with small crawl spaces, but nice work around
Water Worker is trash. It only has a one year warranty. Guess what...mine crapped out right after the one year mark.
I've had a water worker pressure tank for 7 years. No issues
@@bend9335 Count your blessings. I'm sure the ones that were manufactured pre-COVID are slightly better quality.
PSI is not GPM the tank gives you more gpm before the pump cycles the only way to increase PSI is up the cut off of the switch
yes i set my 60/40 to 85/70 bladder to 68
What size is your well pump. Running a new pipe is not that hard you have a drop on size of pipes that causes a restriction. You can do the submersible pump yourself with the size of the blater tank you might be putting to much pressure on itthew bigger one looks like what I want run. With as many bathrooms and striker zones. I would start of with inch and a quarter pipe with a one horse pump as far as the sprinkler run inch an a quarter or one inch to a manorfold that might break down to half inch
Can you add the second tank after the filtration system but right before the water heater split? is it necessary to fit this tank right next to the existing one? Thank you
Typically you would want them to run right after each other; you could always put the tank in another place but pipe it back to the connection point if you are area limited.
Is there a back flow in your system?
No need for one, I have one going to my irrigation I put in, but that is a separate thing.
@@dadsworld5084 Thank you partner. I'm in unforgiving world doing plumbing and need all the help I can get.
any time man
I have a community well. Any idea if it would work for that? I technically have 8 bathrooms and 5 kitchens on 1 well.
Technically it does not matter how many items you have on the well; it would increase your overall ready supply to all of the above. This is how it gives the appearance of higher flow for longer times.
so yes it should help
i seen this video some time ago, as o have the same small tank and with all mu livestock tanks on float valves if many are being used water presser drops in house so i bought the biggest tank i could an hooked it up the same way an set air presser the same in both, only my small tank fills, nothing go into the new big tank at all, i can rock the tank, lift it up so i know nothing in it, have you checked yours, i am thinking it has to be hooked up on the pump side of the small tank before the presser switch..
They need to be run past the pressure switch, and in parallel. Should be no reason that it won't fill up as there is only one way it can go; if it is not filling, I wonder if somehow you have a bad bladder in the tank? Never had one that won't fill up. If both tanks didn't fill, that would be a pump or switch, but one filling and the other not is odd if hooked up correctly.
@@dadsworld5084ye yes i hoked them up as you showed , the small tank always fills an the big tank is new and will not fill at all, it like its air locked totally, i even put a ball valve on a tee at the inlet to bleed an nothing enters. yet i unhook the small one an put the brass tee with switch into the big one and it fills, no small attached..
@@arnoldromppai5395 Sounds like you need to switch out the big tank from where you bought it. Is there something in the hole of that tank what brand is it?
Question my water pressure/volume is pretty much gone when using my washing machine. Any idea why? New homeowner first time with well water and tanks
Your washing machine should not take enough water to empty a tank/well. Do you have the same problem with showering or other activities? If you do, I would be concerned your well is not producing enough water or GPM.
Maybe the washer has a leaking fill valve. Those are pretty standard solenoid valve assemblies with a solenoid for hot and a solenoid valve for cold. Mine had a valve that wouldn't turn off. To check this see if a warm wash fills the tank higher than it should. A warm wash setting will check the fill valve for hot and the fill valve for cold water at the same time. The fill valve part is cheap and easy to change if that is your problem.
More volume, not pressure.....pressure is set by the switch
Fast water heater under my kitchen sink.
So how long does the pump stay off while you’re using your irrigation system? Thinking about doing this to mine.
The larger the tank size the longer the cycle times; pumps have it hardest when they kick on and off, and actual runtime is not bad on them. I have large 17 zones with 5 heads a zone and I get about 5-6 mins of run time and off time, give or tank, on my system.
@@dadsworld5084 wow 17 zones 😮 that’s a lot of pipes! If you don’t mind me asking why only 5 pop ups per zone? I was hoping I could put 10-15 per zone once I start putting my system in.
well, my well refresh rate was only 12 Gal per minute; if I had more like 20gal a min or more, I could have easily put in like 7-9 per zone, but since there is only so much water in reserve to pump I had to slow the volume going out. Take a look at your well head; it has a metal stamp per code that says how many gals per min, 12 is okay 20 is very good, 5 or fewer stinks; also, you can pull from your county how deep your well is and at what water level this lets you know how much water is in the pipe to begin with, my well is 132 ft deep, water at 38ft, with 12 gal refresh rate per minute.
Gotcha. Not sure about my well volume yet. I had a local man put it in . I’m on sandy ground so he just washed it down if I remember correctly it’s only 20 feet deep and he hit good water supply at about 13’.
It’s got a 2” well pipe.
Good info. I share a well with 2 other cabins and my cabin is about 30 feet higher in elevation than the well. When the 3rd cabin tapped into the well, my upstairs shower barely drips, even when the other 2 cabins are not in use. Main floor and basement showers are good, and the pressure in the well house is set at 75 psi. Can I put a second pressure tank in my cabin basement (about 150 feet uphill from the well) to increase my water pressure and availability?
Good Question, typically you would want to run them side by side before it goes to all 3 cabins so that the pressure can maintain equal pressure throughout the system, I would see if I could go back to the source near the tank to put it personally if possible, al the cabins will enjoy more pressure, it does seem strange that only your top floor ahs been affected since it is a sealed closed system you would think the pressure at one point is the same as the other points unless the pipe diameter feeding your top shower is decreased to let less flow through to it. I could see a decrease if all cabins were taking showers at the same point but that seems storage to me that even with no draw there is an issue. Do you know how much the well produces per minute and how big a pump is in it? By providing a secondary tank that is much bigger and running it in parallel it will provide a larger reserve of water and more consistent pressure no matter what typically.
No. You would need a booster pump. With a second tank adding just tank would do nothing. Tanks do not provide pressure your pump does. Take a look into cycle stop valves to save your money on a big tank that usually last about 5 years before the bladder breaks.
@@marvidrunzthis "Well Pressure Tanks" provide the pressure, the pump just fills the tank. My tank is 24 years old.
@@dadsworld5084 It does not matter where tje tanks are, the pressure is the same and water is fed from any tank. Mind though, you lose 1 bar in pressure per 10 meter elevation.
Wrong@@rd7264
Tanks do not provide pressure. Your pump does. Tanks just hold water.
If you want constant pressure you might want to take a look into cycle stop valves. This valve does not turn off the pump when it is in demand. You can go with the smallest tank ex 5 gallons.
Adding a second tank will only increase your draw time.
Correct Tanks do not provide pressure; however, they maintain it on most systems in between pump cycles since the pumps generally run on 40-60 switches meaning cycles the bigger the tank, the more it holds steady pressure. The more reserve it will hold in between cycles. So. by having a higher reserve, you maintain longer continuous pressure and generally have a much better system; there are other ways to get steady pressure; however, they are usually much more expensive and cannot be done without a good company. Tanks should last much longer than 5 yrs; our correct ones have 7yrs on them, my last house is 10 yrs, and my other home in Florida, where the tanks sit in the sun, is 11 yrs. Remember, the better the tank, the longer it lasts! The two types in this video are typically some of the better ones and should provide numerous years of use.
"Well Pressure Tanks" provide the pressure, the pump just fills the tank. Cycle Stop Valves are BAD! th-cam.com/video/65NHNBlzR1c/w-d-xo.html
How much air pressure should you put in the two tanks?
it should have a max on the side of the tank, just in case you have separate brand tanks, the big thing is to just make sure they are the same pressure once installed, they will probably be close already, when pairing a large tank with the original tank it makes a massive difference in your water pressure for sustained periods of time like multiple showers, sprinklers, etc.
@@dadsworld5084 thanks!
@@johnpaparella7345 anytime hope it helps
2 psi below cut on pressure. 40/60 switch = 38psi.
Do i need a pump?
you would only have a pressure tank if you have a water pump in the well, if on city water this wont help
There is NO NEED for two tanks at pump source.
How much is the air psi in your tanks?
you will have to see on the tank recommendations, off the top of my head I think mine is 60psi, but just look on tank or tank specifics which you can google.
I may have missed something, but I am wondering what advantage this configuration makes over just replacing the 32 gallon tank with the 119 gallon one?
Cause he is full of shit lol
the big advantage is you are not wasting the 32 gal as it will add to the other tank, 119+32=151gal
If you have the space for both, no real down side to having both, just more capacity. Myself, if i go bigger i would need to swap tank out. No more room where i have my tank at. In his case... could have 10 tanks
@@dadsworld5084 nope..all you get is the drawdown, not the total volume of the tanks. Look at the drawdown numbers and add them together. That'll give you the volume of water stored in the tanks.
Couldn’t u just put the big tank in and eliminate the same take
Yes, you could, however, you would be wasting the small tank at this point, by running in parallel you get both tanks since you already own both pretty simple to run together.
Hey Dad's World why is your dog wearing a crock on it's face? LOL
lol, it was spouse to be a comfy muzzle, he was chewing rugs and window seals up. It lasted one time he got it off and eat it lol!
The pressure did not increase.
It should give you more consistent pressure due to the large reservoir. Basically, if you have a 40/60 switch, you should have much longer cycles of closer to 60 psi without pumps turning on and off, which is much easier on the pump. By maintaining a more constant pressure at high ends, it gives the impression of higher pressure.
.
With a lager tank you do not get any increase in pressure, only longer intervals in cycling of the pump. To increase pressure you must adjust the pressure switch. Then you are limited with what the pump can deliver.
So you did nothing and does not increase your water pressure at all. You have a bit more volume but not more pressure. And also you still have less then you think. Of gallons of water between the two tanks. If you know how they work with the air balder... Better luck next time bud....
Very true
Increased the amount of time he's on the high end of his pressure. Decreased his electricity costs. Extended the life of his well pump. He also has a backup if the bladder goes bad in one of his tanks. Critical thinking isn't your strong suit,is it?
@steve But when his tanks are low his well will have to pump longer to refill this much tank space. I believe not all pumps are designed for long periods of pumping. For example my well pumps about 12 gallons a minute. Having this much tank to fill would cause my pump to run longer than the pump recommended. I’m installing a 64 gallon tank. For my well pump that is on the larger size.
If your water supply is enough a big pressure tank is awesome. If your water supply is a little weaker the big tank is going to burn out your well pump. My guess is this guy does have to much tank for his pump.
An easy way to pick a tank size that I ran across is count your out puts and multiple by 3. I have 18. 18 x 3 = 54 I went with 64 gallon tank. This guy had something like 140 gallons. That enough pressure for 46 outputs.
@@mezenman a longer run time is better than more frequent starts and stops. It’s not the running that ages a pump, but the constant off’s and on’s.
Probably one of the most pessimistic posts I’ve ever seen, especially with the cocky Ender calling him bud. How about try to help rather than be a dick