Thank you for your informative videos. Thank you for not playing annoying music and wannabe film producer intro. You speak well, get your point across directly and succinctly. Good work!
Hi I have a gould j15s jet pump. I only use it for watering the lawn as I now have City water in my house. My question is if I remove the pressure switch and water tank and connect the pump with a relay to my sprinkler timer if one of the solenoid fails to open will the excess pressure damage my pump. If so would a pressure relief valve in the water line work.
Tip #8: Write "Well & Pump Documentation" on your zip lock bag full of documents with your Sharpie marker so you don't have to open it to find out what is in it, (since you are already going around marking things up)! ;-) Very good video!
Thank you for the information . I am currently in the process of purchasing a hone with a well. I have always had city water and know NOTHING about using a well . I am trying to learn as much as possible. Thanks again
I have just watched three of your videos, and they are great! I will be watching more. Thanks so much. I would call on your company for all my well needs with out hesitation. Once again, thanks.
Whenever I install a new pressure switch on a well pump I take a picture of the old one before taking the wires off, just in case I forget what goes where on the new one. Also buying a pre-calibrated switch is a lot easier and saves so much time/water then buying one that isn't calibrated to the PSI you need. Also 2 pressure set screws is better than 1.
Very informative video. I was hoping it would cover a scenario similar to mine. My well head and cistern are ~250-300' away from the entry point in the basement. My well pump is set at about 300' with a finished well depth of ~385'. About 10' from the well head I buried a 1725 gallon cistern and next to it I buried a 1500 gallon cement tank where all my valves and pumps will go. My questions are: Should I put my pressure tank and water softener in the cement tank or just use 3/4 horse pump that I bought to move water from the cistern to the house and put the pressure tank in the basement along with the water softener? I would really appreciate your insight on this. George
WoW this was so cool i have had this kind of well pump a 2 wire never understood it at alll this is great thank you so much im doing it right now if i just had some stromg people to help me get my pump out of there thank you so much Up State Ny
It recently frozen here in w ashimgton and my well pump isn't replenishing the air back to the bladder .so I bleed all air out of bladder !do I close the ball valve that feeds the garden and then house wich has a spigot .to re pressuriz?
Nicely done! I pumped my water with a jet pump. Had no choice as it was installed before I bought the property. Maintained that system for 13 years and documented or noted everything you mentioned here. You might say that if you take care of your well pump, it will take care of you.
Great video. I have a question. Live in a 20 year old trailer. The water pressure got really low. Thought it would need a new pump but brought someonbe out and said pressure was ok but the water tank is water logged. Said might be able to pump some air in it and it might be all we need. Problem is I cant find the tank. Looked under trailer and it isnt there. Started digging by the well and not seeing anything. Talked to a couple of guys that have wells and they said it should be under trailer or maybe in trailer. Any ideas would be real helpful.
We bought a home in 2017 that has a well house with a cement floor and two pipes, maybe 1.5" diameter and two wires, all cut off at the cement floor. The previous two owners did not use the well and have no info on it and the owners BEFORE that are deceased. Without paying a well company thousands of dollars to come out and "evaluate", what steps should I take? Should I drop a weighted line down each pipe to see if there is water and how far down? Should I place a small catch cup on that line to test any water for contamination? What are your thoughts, please?
Please help. In tip number four you have the bladder tank removed and emptied. Can it be checked for pressure while still attached, and if so how? Should I assume it's as simple as shutting off the power, and then opening a valve to drain the system?
Brian, please check out our video on how to check and adjust pressure tanks: th-cam.com/video/w21qa2bMUh8/w-d-xo.html&lc=z23uj155jmqhylrbg04t1aokglwqwrysyr32k022hrf2rk0h00410
I just bought an old home (1845) with a hand dug wishing well type well on the property (ie no well pipe). I would like to use the well for adding water to my pool or other outdoor use to take the pressure off the house main well system. What type of pump and accessory components should I purchase? 35 feet to the water surface. No idea how deep the water is below that.
My pressure tank cut in / cut out is set as 50/70 while on the pressure thank it states PSI 38 In the video you mentioned - Tank PSI should be set to 2 less then 40 (cut in). What do you suggest I do ? Looks like previous owner may have crank the cut in / cut out to higher value then normal 40/60
Man I have learned so much from your tutorials, thank you! I do have a question. I have a small pressure tank and it's 15 years old. How long do they last and how do I know when it needs to be replaced? I couldn't find a video about it that's why I'm asking. Cheers!
Thanks for the question! Depending on where it is installed the tank should last between 10-20 years. If your tank is bad you will notice the pump cycle more and more. Here's a video on how to check the tank: th-cam.com/video/w21qa2bMUh8/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgzPNoIJPZGNwaV8shd4AaABAg
My psi gauge is on drop to 0. My pump is above ground does that tell me that I have to pull the pipe up from under ground to fix it. I checked the water tank it has 15 psi, I tried to prime, water just kept going down. It frozen in Houston Texas last 3 days. Help
I want to know when my submersible pump is running - how do you hook up 'red light' to go on when pump is running? Without an alarm the pump could run continuously without you knowing it! I'm surprised an alarm is not part of all installations?
I have 2 homes on my property. The secondary home has low water pressure, as it receives water from the primary residence. Would it be better to upgrade well pump which my well has lots of water or install a pressurized well storage tank at the secondary residence ?
It could be a few things that's causing the low water pressure. One could be a restriction such as a filter, regulator screen or just the screen in the faucets. It could also depend on how far away the property is. If your second home is 1000 ft away and you have a 1" pipe running to it pipe friction will reduce the volume. A bigger pump would pump more water but if the pipe can't care the flow you need the bigger pump would not help. Also installing an extra pressure tank would not help with low pressure. A pressure tank is made to give your pump a buffer so that it doesn't cycle constantly. It doesn't increase pressure. If you want to increase your pressure you can by adjusting the pressure switch. You take a 3/8ths nut driver and screw the bigger nut behind the points of the switch
Off Topic Question: When I was a little kid my dad let me come down in the well house while he primed the well he had installed in our cabin for hunting. He dug about a 4 05 5 foot deep square hole pronaly 6 x 6 feet or so and walled it up to just around ground level and a concrete floor, the was a metal framed four or five step ladder to decend in there he allowed two or so course of the cinder block to jut into the area and the well pump sat on top of that. He had a painted wooden interlocking water tight roof system over that. He told me there was a sand filter in there that filtered the water before it entered the cabin under ground. Is there such a thing as a sand filter that the outlet pipe runs through before it goes to the house? If so who makes it? My plan is a Stage 1 Sand filer in the pit if I need a wel dug then feed line to the house, followed by a thre stage whole house filter line before the water runs to any aplliances, sinks, or showers, but really wanted the Stage one Filtration via sand if there is such a thing outside?
Make sure system is off and drained of water before you check air pressure in pressure tank. You won't get an accurate reading if it has water pressure in it.
Excellent tips. In hydronic heating loops the bladder in the expansion tank is inflated to the recommended pressure before water is introduced to the tank, is that the way this tank is pressurized?
But you should have mentioned in the video that you check the bladder pressure AFTER the water pressure has been lowered to below 38 psi (or whatever bladder pressure is desire).
Thanks for the comment! The pressure in the tank needs to be checked with the tank empty and no pressure in the system, there is a link to our video on how to do check/adjust pressure tanks in the description.
Great video for a City person like me. Question - we are actually buying a home to use on the weekends and it has well water. I was given advice to to turn off the power to the pressure switch, so that the system is not pressurized during the week when the house is empty (for fear of freezing pipes in the even that the heat goes out). And when we turn up on Friday eve, restore the power to the pressure switch. Is this a bad idea? Common practice? What about killing the power to the pump itself? Thanks!
Joe, turning the power off while you are gone is fine. Typically, water will stay in the pipes unless you have a way to bleed it out though, so I am not sure how effective turning the power off will be at preventing frozen pipes.
It's not to prevent frozen pipes. It's to prevent the flood damage that could be caused by burst pipes, whether due to a freeze and thaw or just some other random plumbing failure. I like the peace of mind of knowing there's only around 30 gallons max available once my pump is disabled.
Thank you! This video was very informative and gives me ideas as to where to start! I have a well that was dug in 1985 or 86, and I live in the house which was finished in 1946. I know some general things, but I do not have an owners manual, and I do not know how deep my well is. I don't even know where the pressure switch is, so I have a lot to learn. However, I know where the pump break is and will label that today. Thanks again!!!
Question: What is the floating switch inside my 2500 gallon tank called? It recently failed and the tank overflowed. Also thinking about a switch to shut off surface pump if tank goes empty. (that has happened in the past). Love doing these projects myself and your videos are very helpful and well done.
great video: I have a low volume well, looking to install a 250 Gallon reservoir, how do floats switches operate inside reservoir and signal pump tech to start and stop the well pump?
The Pumptec does not operate off float switches, it simply measures the voltage/current going to and from the pump's motor. Typically, you'll have 1 wide angle switch in the cistern to control the well pump and another near the bottom to turn your booster pump off if the water gets too low. Here's a video we made on storage tanks: th-cam.com/video/f_08768_Hlk/w-d-xo.html
If I change the pump in an artsian flowing well(about 8gal of min). Do I need to pump the well with a trash pump to change the pump or is it safe to pull the pump off the pitless with water flowing?
When moved into this house, there was no information about the 200ft submersible pump. Is there any way of determining Pump Specs based on controller or other methods?
I have a small cabin in Idaho and when they dug the well they buried the pressure tank outside next to the well and the pressure switch inside on the inlet to the water heater. The line going in somewhere under ground goes to 1” gal to 1/2” copper somewhere underground. the reason I dug up the pzr tank was it had rusted through and started leaking. I would like to move the new tank inside next to the water heater. Do you see a problem because of all the strangeness and do I need to move the pzr switch to the tank? Thanks for the help!
I put a new control box an pressure switch on my well the water coming out in a stream as big as a pencil and it shuts off after a few min an the water now has alot of black stuff in it an it's getting the right amount of power any advice would be helpful
We have had an unexpected and extreme drought in Cape Town South Africa. This has led to a proliferation of borehole drilling. Having researched what pump systems to use, I went in search of a cycle stop valve. Nothing available locally. Imported a CSV1A from the USA. Used with a 4 gallon pressure tank and a 2.8 HP pump and it works perfectly. Constant pump running at 50 psi rather than the on off situation. The only problem I had was sourcing connectors with a NPT to metric thread conversion which I ultimately had to import as well.
Hi Philip. I live in Cape Town too and have read about the cycle stop valve and I’m interested in it too. How did you import one, and what was the total cost. Thanks.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. You're right. I am reminded now, that I actually widened the range by lowering the low end of pressure. Since my switch was mechanical, it required moving both screws since the range is mechanical related to the pressures.
I have a conventional system and just had the pump replaced. When I’m irrigating the cycle times are 30 seconds on and 2 minutes off. Are these good numbers for avoiding heat damage?
depending on Horsepower, the pump should run for at least 1 minute for 1 horse pumps and for one and a half minutes for over one horsepower pumps- the motors are cooled by pumping water over the through the motor- longer run times equals longer motor life
I have a question, I have a 100 psi pressure tank, it holds pressure, but for some reason water doesn't really go inside the pressure tank, when I shake it, there is no water inside, so pump still runs. It was working before but I replaced the pressure switch off because the contact point, etc were rusted. Now it seems the pump doesn't start, I have to manually start it with the lever, it runs but still the pressure tank stays empty. I adjusted the pressure in the pressure inside the bladder, and adjusted the pressure switch to stop at 50,pump does not stop, unless I manually shut it down.
@@RCworstwater pressure tank set to 45 psi, I don't think its the water coz when I push the pressure swtich lever, it pumps water out and there is pressure. I just don't understand why the pressure switch will not start on its own though. I have to always push the lever to get the contacts touching. I replaced that and it's new. Pressure tank says 0, so the pressure switch should engage by itself.
Running a shallow well pump from battery backup / split phase sine wave output inverter is fun. I see an initial spike of slightly over 10A (at about 230V) so that is about 2300 W (watts), then it settles down to about 3.3A (about 750 watts). Any drawbacks to doing this?
I am building a house in Md. I have a well that's 900' deep that is water bearing at 162' and 820'. Rate of 1.2 gpm. Estimated 3000 gallons. What do I need for a submersible pump and to have a temporary hydrant installed for the build? Thank you in advance for any info
One other thing. If the gauge rises slow and you are getting the water you need, your gauge may need to be replaced or the pipe that feeds it is clogged. Nothing should be galvanized iron. All copper, brass or stainless
If you have a 30/50 switch then the pressure tank should be set at 28 psi. Ours is showing 37 psi and our well shuts off all the time. Could this be the problem?
As long as you are testing pressure with all the water pressure released to 0. Heres how. Turn off the well pump and pressure pump. Open valve some where in the system and let water run till no more water pressure in the system. Then you can take a pressure reading of the pressure tanks pressure at the pressure tanks Schrader valve. If you have a pressure switch that comes on at 30psi then set your pressure in pressure tank to 28psi. Then turn all the power back on to the pumps and let water pressure come back up to normal. I bet that is your problem as to your pump coming on too often.
I have a WellXtrol reservoir tank that I installed a year ago. (I like it allot) Unless I missed it in your narrative, you must set the "head pressure" with the tank empty. I would like to know if there is a way to minimize condensation on the reservoir tank. The bottom third gets really wet and then it sits around the bottom of the tank causing some so far, minor rusting. Also runs across the floor. Any tips?
Here's our video on how to check and adjust a pressure tank: th-cam.com/video/w21qa2bMUh8/w-d-xo.html&lc=Ugz-i49l3yKRl4Alrul4AaABAg For the condensation, the area may need better ventilation or you can try insulating the pressure tank. A small dehumidifier would also work.
Liked and subscribed! Our pump stopped working though it has electricity going to it and we are trying to figure out what exactly is the matter. Great tips.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. Thanks, I've been watching those videos in the series -- very informative! I was blessed to have a friend of a friend who knew all about wells a d well pumps come over and look at our setup. It turns out we have a jet flow (?) pump style whereas today most of them are a %100 submersible motor+pump combo. It also happened that even thought we checked the breakers already, that there was a box of 30 amp circle time delay fuses that from the videos I've seen appear to be a nonstandard component in modern well pump systems. Replacing these fuses for $5 was the problem. They were in a box that was somewhat tricky to open. Have you experienced fuses like thus in any setups your company has worked on?
Eric, Fuses are a common component to older electrical systems. They were used before breakers became a standard. The performed the same function of limiting amperage for safety, rather than trip, they would burn out. There is not a big problem using fuses, they just lack the convenience of breakers. We have seen nearly everything in our 65+ years in the business and are happy to share our knowledge. If you are still having problems give us a call. 855.329.4519.
How do can I move the Pressure Switch from a pump like that to a water pressure pump? Now I have a pressure switch just on my well shall pump and I want to instal new Pressure tank in my house wich come with pre-installed pressure switch how do I rewiring pressure switch from the pump to pressure switch on my new pressure tank
I’ve used tiny different colored zip ties to I’d wire configuration. Also, you can take a picture and keep a copy of the photo in the sacred baggie of knowledge
I keep losing power to my peroxide pump that is wired to the pressure switch. I have 220 coming to the switch for the well pump but my Stenner pump is 110. Wire to panel is tight. 3 people have looked at this but can't fix it. Currently I plug Stenner into another outlet and turn it on manually when we are going to use a fair amount of water.
@@bigpardner - They should agree only when the cut-off pressure is reached. You want the cut-in pressure to be a little more than the empty tank pressure.
Thanks, but that was not what I was wondering about. I am concerned that the two gauges both are calibrated to read the same pressure equally. So if you want the cut on water pressure to be 30 PSI and the tank air pressure to be 27-28 PSI, how can you be sure that the 2 gauges are calibrated the same so that this 2-3 PSI difference in fact exists? My limited experience with air gauges are that they are not that precise.
I am having a leak at the top of the casing where the 90 degree pressure pipe meets at the top then goes to the tank. I cannot reach it to fix it. Is this an expensive fix?
It sounds like you're talking about the pitless adapter, it is usually 4-6 feet down the well. If that is leaking it could need a new seal or replaced. In either case, you will need to have your pump and all the piping pulled and dig down to service it. The part itself is not too expensive, around $50-$100, but paying someone to do the work would be. We do sell pitless adapters at wholesale prices, give us a call if you want to get one or have questions: 855.329.4519
Great tips, thank you! I bought a home with a well a few years ago and have been steadily learning more about it, mainly through videos like these. My well seal was buried, and only recently found when I started having pump issues. The seal is now all cleaned up and surrounded by a sprinkler control box for easy access. Do you recommend shocking the well in this case? I'm not sure if that has ever been done.
CSV's are excellent in most situations, they are great at extending the runtime and overall life of the pump. We will definitely be making a video on them, thanks for the suggestion Kevin!
We just bought our home last July and it is the first home we’ve ever had that has well water. After a couple of months we started noticing a rotten egg smell and asked a plumber to come out who removed the anode rod from our water heater (which is the same age as our house-17 yrs old). We thought that would fix the problem with the smell but it didn’t. So I searched online about it and learned that we probably needed to chlorinate our well. My neighbor, who has done their own for the last 7 years, came over and told me how to do it. I should have wrote it down but I didn’t and completely left out an important step...and maybe more because I’m awesome like that. One of the steps I know I forgot was to shut off the valves to our water softener (and the water heater (???)) to have the bleach bypass it/them. How do I fix this issue and what do I do in the meantime?? Thanks!
Matt: No, we do not do the testing. You can purchase a test kit by clicking on the link below. For an official test, we recommend using a certified laboratory in your area. www.rcworst.com/Watersafe-WSFWS425W-Well-Water-Test-Kit-p14534.html
Seems to me it should be the installer's duty to record all this information somewhere standard just like the electrician labels the circuit-breaker box. I bought a house once where the electrician never labeled anything; what a massive headache to figure it all out later!
Great video, Lots of good information. Do you have any recommendations as to where I can get a 1” Ball Check Valve? The check valve on the well head manifold stopped working. Dislodged in the seating of the valve. I would add a photo, but Im unable to.
Thanks for the question. We do sell ball check valves, but for well water I would suggest a spring-assisted check valve instead because they close much faster: www.rcworst.com/Flomatic-80E-Enviro-4031E-Check-Valve-1-p1775.html
If it is too far above, the bladder could burst or start leaking. If it is too far below, your pump cycles will be shorter, as the bladder will not force out enough water before then water pressure drops below the turn on preset.
I Am a FARMER from ANDRA Pradesh India i had 3 7.5 hp 8 stage cri brand submersible pumps face lots of problems and facing tripping and failures of motors and fuse carrier of 63 amps plz plz suggest some thing and i our area no one recommends capacitor in stater panel plz how to connect capacitor in stater panel.
My well is about 300 feet from my new house, and it currently has 1/2 inch pvc line running from the well to the new house location. I don't feel like running new 1-1/4 - 2 inch pvc line, so can I just add a pressure tank in my garage and connect the 1/2 inch pvc near by? This way, I can always have water in the pressure tank with 60 PSI to my house, and don't have to worry about the 300 feet distance from well to my house. Thanks.
Thank you for your informative videos. Thank you for not playing annoying music and wannabe film producer intro. You speak well, get your point across directly and succinctly. Good work!
These are all excellent tips! Your channel is great and this is critical stuff all us well water people should know.
Thanks so much!
Hi
I have a gould j15s jet pump. I only use it for watering the lawn as I now have City water in my house. My question is if I remove the pressure switch and water tank and connect the pump with a relay to my sprinkler timer if one of the solenoid fails to open will the excess pressure damage my pump. If so would a pressure relief valve in the water line work.
Tip #8: Write "Well & Pump Documentation" on your zip lock bag full of documents with your Sharpie marker so you don't have to open it to find out what is in it, (since you are already going around marking things up)! ;-)
Very good video!
Thank you for the information . I am currently in the process of purchasing a hone with a well. I have always had city water and know NOTHING about using a well . I am trying to learn as much as possible. Thanks again
I have a 40/60 tank but my pump is 30 /50 should both be the same with the tank pressure ?
I have just watched three of your videos, and they are great! I will be watching more. Thanks so much. I would call on your company for all my well needs with out hesitation. Once again, thanks.
Glad you like them!
I really like your videos and the way you present the information Thanks
Whenever I install a new pressure switch on a well pump I take a picture of the old one before taking the wires off, just in case I forget what goes where on the new one. Also buying a pre-calibrated switch is a lot easier and saves so much time/water then buying one that isn't calibrated to the PSI you need. Also 2 pressure set screws is better than 1.
LOL - funny quip for a how-to video 4:49 "it's not really the size of the situation, it's how you use it"
Very informative video. I was hoping it would cover a scenario similar to mine. My well head and cistern are ~250-300' away from the entry point in the basement. My well pump is set at about 300' with a finished well depth of ~385'. About 10' from the well head I buried a 1725 gallon cistern and next to it I buried a 1500 gallon cement tank where all my valves and pumps will go. My questions are: Should I put my pressure tank and water softener in the cement tank or just use 3/4 horse pump that I bought to move water from the cistern to the house and put the pressure tank in the basement along with the water softener? I would really appreciate your insight on this. George
Do you have to drain water out of tank to test air pressure
WoW this was so cool i have had this kind of well pump a 2 wire never understood it at alll this is great thank you so much im doing it right now if i just had some stromg people to help me get my pump out of there thank you so much Up State Ny
what should the pressure be when pump is on and take filled. Empty or new 38. but what about once on and working
It recently frozen here in w ashimgton and my well pump isn't replenishing the air back to the bladder .so I bleed all air out of bladder !do I close the ball valve that feeds the garden and then house wich has a spigot .to re pressuriz?
I don't have a well nor a house but somehow I am interested in this video.
I like sharpees
Nicely done! I pumped my water with a jet pump. Had no choice as it was installed before I bought the property. Maintained that system for 13 years and documented or noted everything you mentioned here. You might say that if you take care of your well pump, it will take care of you.
What do you do to fix when your pressure goes to high ? And the blow off valve leaks some.. we changed the blow off valve..
You likely have a clogged pressure switch or tube that connects to it. I would recommend cleaning/replacing.
Thank you for the tips my pump frozen got it working.
Will watering lawn put a strain on well pump or bladder on gilding tank
Great video. I have a question. Live in a 20 year old trailer. The water pressure got really low. Thought it would need a new pump but brought someonbe out and said pressure was ok but the water tank is water logged. Said might be able to pump some air in it and it might be all we need. Problem is I cant find the tank. Looked under trailer and it isnt there. Started digging by the well and not seeing anything. Talked to a couple of guys that have wells and they said it should be under trailer or maybe in trailer. Any ideas would be real helpful.
Follow the water lines from pump to house.check around Mobile home where the water lines go inside .
I'm sure you found it after a year...but where was it?
Mine was in the well about a foot foot from the top.🙄
We bought a home in 2017 that has a well house with a cement floor and two pipes, maybe 1.5" diameter and two wires, all cut off at the cement floor. The previous two owners did not use the well and have no info on it and the owners BEFORE that are deceased. Without paying a well company thousands of dollars to come out and "evaluate", what steps should I take? Should I drop a weighted line down each pipe to see if there is water and how far down? Should I place a small catch cup on that line to test any water for contamination? What are your thoughts, please?
Please help. In tip number four you have the bladder tank removed and emptied. Can it be checked for pressure while still attached, and if so how? Should I assume it's as simple as shutting off the power, and then opening a valve to drain the system?
Brian, please check out our video on how to check and adjust pressure tanks: th-cam.com/video/w21qa2bMUh8/w-d-xo.html&lc=z23uj155jmqhylrbg04t1aokglwqwrysyr32k022hrf2rk0h00410
I just bought an old home (1845) with a hand dug wishing well type well on the property (ie no well pipe). I would like to use the well for adding water to my pool or other outdoor use to take the pressure off the house main well system. What type of pump and accessory components should I purchase? 35 feet to the water surface. No idea how deep the water is below that.
Give us a call: 855.329.4519
As a former service technician / electrician... I endorse this vid...
:)
My pressure tank cut in / cut out is set as 50/70 while on the pressure thank it states PSI 38
In the video you mentioned - Tank PSI should be set to 2 less then 40 (cut in).
What do you suggest I do ? Looks like previous owner may have crank the cut in / cut out to higher value then normal 40/60
Your tank needs to be set to 48 PSI
Man I have learned so much from your tutorials, thank you! I do have a question. I have a small pressure tank and it's 15 years old. How long do they last and how do I know when it needs to be replaced? I couldn't find a video about it that's why I'm asking. Cheers!
Thanks for the question! Depending on where it is installed the tank should last between 10-20 years. If your tank is bad you will notice the pump cycle more and more. Here's a video on how to check the tank: th-cam.com/video/w21qa2bMUh8/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgzPNoIJPZGNwaV8shd4AaABAg
My psi gauge is on drop to 0. My pump is above ground does that tell me that I have to pull the pipe up from under ground to fix it. I checked the water tank it has 15 psi, I tried to prime, water just kept going down. It frozen in Houston Texas last 3 days. Help
I want to know when my submersible pump is running - how do you hook up 'red light' to go on when pump is running? Without an alarm the pump could run continuously without you knowing it! I'm surprised an alarm is not part of all installations?
I have 2 homes on my property. The secondary home has low water pressure, as it receives water from the primary residence. Would it be better to upgrade well pump which my well has lots of water or install a pressurized well storage tank at the secondary residence ?
Is the other property a higher elevation than the other property?
It could be a few things that's causing the low water pressure. One could be a restriction such as a filter, regulator screen or just the screen in the faucets. It could also depend on how far away the property is. If your second home is 1000 ft away and you have a 1" pipe running to it pipe friction will reduce the volume. A bigger pump would pump more water but if the pipe can't care the flow you need the bigger pump would not help. Also installing an extra pressure tank would not help with low pressure. A pressure tank is made to give your pump a buffer so that it doesn't cycle constantly. It doesn't increase pressure. If you want to increase your pressure you can by adjusting the pressure switch. You take a 3/8ths nut driver and screw the bigger nut behind the points of the switch
If your shallow pump has a pressure switch do you need a second one for pressure tank?
No
@@RCworstwater whats the biggest pressure tank available, i have a 1 hp pump
Off Topic Question: When I was a little kid my dad let me come down in the well house while he primed the well he had installed in our cabin for hunting. He dug about a 4 05 5 foot deep square hole pronaly 6 x 6 feet or so and walled it up to just around ground level and a concrete floor, the was a metal framed four or five step ladder to decend in there he allowed two or so course of the cinder block to jut into the area and the well pump sat on top of that. He had a painted wooden interlocking water tight roof system over that. He told me there was a sand filter in there that filtered the water before it entered the cabin under ground. Is there such a thing as a sand filter that the outlet pipe runs through before it goes to the house? If so who makes it? My plan is a Stage 1 Sand filer in the pit if I need a wel dug then feed line to the house, followed by a thre stage whole house filter line before the water runs to any aplliances, sinks, or showers, but really wanted the Stage one Filtration via sand if there is such a thing outside?
How can I add a manual hand pump in case my electricity goes out?
Make sure system is off and drained of water before you check air pressure in pressure tank. You won't get an accurate reading if it has water pressure in it.
Correct!
Excellent tips. In hydronic heating loops the bladder in the expansion tank is inflated to the recommended pressure before water is introduced to the tank, is that the way this tank is pressurized?
All of the WellXtrol tanks come pressurized to 38 PSI, which is for use in conventional systems operating on a 40-60 PSI pressure switch.
But you should have mentioned in the video that you check the bladder pressure AFTER the water pressure has been lowered to below 38 psi (or whatever bladder pressure is desire).
Thanks for the comment! The pressure in the tank needs to be checked with the tank empty and no pressure in the system, there is a link to our video on how to do check/adjust pressure tanks in the description.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. Thanks.
Thank you!!! Informative and humerus
Great video for a City person like me. Question - we are actually buying a home to use on the weekends and it has well water. I was given advice to to turn off the power to the pressure switch, so that the system is not pressurized during the week when the house is empty (for fear of freezing pipes in the even that the heat goes out). And when we turn up on Friday eve, restore the power to the pressure switch. Is this a bad idea? Common practice? What about killing the power to the pump itself? Thanks!
Joe, turning the power off while you are gone is fine. Typically, water will stay in the pipes unless you have a way to bleed it out though, so I am not sure how effective turning the power off will be at preventing frozen pipes.
It's not to prevent frozen pipes. It's to prevent the flood damage that could be caused by burst pipes, whether due to a freeze and thaw or just some other random plumbing failure. I like the peace of mind of knowing there's only around 30 gallons max available once my pump is disabled.
Thank you! This video was very informative and gives me ideas as to where to start! I have a well that was dug in 1985 or 86, and I live in the house which was finished in 1946. I know some general things, but I do not have an owners manual, and I do not know how deep my well is. I don't even know where the pressure switch is, so I have a lot to learn. However, I know where the pump break is and will label that today. Thanks again!!!
You bet! Feel free to call us with any questions: 855.329.4519
Your state should have records of the well depth.
Question: What is the floating switch inside my 2500 gallon tank called? It recently failed and the tank overflowed. Also thinking about a switch to shut off surface pump if tank goes empty. (that has happened in the past). Love doing these projects myself and your videos are very helpful and well done.
It's a float switch
great video: I have a low volume well, looking to install a 250 Gallon reservoir, how do floats switches operate inside reservoir and signal pump tech to start and stop the well pump?
The Pumptec does not operate off float switches, it simply measures the voltage/current going to and from the pump's motor. Typically, you'll have 1 wide angle switch in the cistern to control the well pump and another near the bottom to turn your booster pump off if the water gets too low. Here's a video we made on storage tanks: th-cam.com/video/f_08768_Hlk/w-d-xo.html
If I change the pump in an artsian flowing well(about 8gal of min). Do I need to pump the well with a trash pump to change the pump or is it safe to pull the pump off the pitless with water flowing?
When moved into this house, there was no information about the 200ft submersible pump. Is there any way of determining Pump Specs based on controller or other methods?
We have a video on that: th-cam.com/video/5J1MaIyMSOQ/w-d-xo.html
Super helpful! Thank you!!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Very informative and helpful
I have a small cabin in Idaho and when they dug the well they buried the pressure tank outside next to the well and the pressure switch inside on the inlet to the water heater. The line going in somewhere under ground goes to 1” gal to 1/2” copper somewhere underground. the reason I dug up the pzr tank was it had rusted through and started leaking. I would like to move the new tank inside next to the water heater. Do you see a problem because of all the strangeness and do I need to move the pzr switch to the tank? Thanks for the help!
Hey that was excellent video where you located
Excellent advice
I put a new control box an pressure switch on my well the water coming out in a stream as big as a pencil and it shuts off after a few min an the water now has alot of black stuff in it an it's getting the right amount of power any advice would be helpful
We have had an unexpected and extreme drought in Cape Town South Africa. This has led to a proliferation of borehole drilling. Having researched what pump systems to use, I went in search of a cycle stop valve. Nothing available locally. Imported a CSV1A from the USA. Used with a 4 gallon pressure tank and a 2.8 HP pump and it works perfectly. Constant pump running at 50 psi rather than the on off situation. The only problem I had was sourcing connectors with a NPT to metric thread conversion which I ultimately had to import as well.
Hi Philip. I live in Cape Town too and have read about the cycle stop valve and I’m interested in it too. How did you import one, and what was the total cost. Thanks.
I widened my cut in/ cut out on my pressure switch. It keeps the pump from doing more on/ off cycles. Saves wear and tear on the pump.
Be careful with a wider pressure range. This could put additional stress on the bladder in your tank depending on the circumstances.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. You're right. I am reminded now, that I actually widened the range by lowering the low end of pressure. Since my switch was mechanical, it required moving both screws since the range is mechanical related to the pressures.
It's -32 Celsius in Sudbury Ontario
I have a conventional system and just had the pump replaced. When I’m irrigating the cycle times are 30 seconds on and 2 minutes off. Are these good numbers for avoiding heat damage?
depending on Horsepower, the pump should run for at least 1 minute for 1 horse pumps and for one and a half minutes for over one horsepower pumps- the motors are cooled by pumping water over the through the motor- longer run times equals longer motor life
I have a question, I have a 100 psi pressure tank, it holds pressure, but for some reason water doesn't really go inside the pressure tank, when I shake it, there is no water inside, so pump still runs. It was working before but I replaced the pressure switch off because the contact point, etc were rusted. Now it seems the pump doesn't start, I have to manually start it with the lever, it runs but still the pressure tank stays empty. I adjusted the pressure in the pressure inside the bladder, and adjusted the pressure switch to stop at 50,pump does not stop, unless I manually shut it down.
What pressure do you have your tank set to? Assuming it is set correctly, it sounds like you may be running out of water in the well
@@RCworstwater pressure tank set to 45 psi, I don't think its the water coz when I push the pressure swtich lever, it pumps water out and there is pressure. I just don't understand why the pressure switch will not start on its own though. I have to always push the lever to get the contacts touching. I replaced that and it's new. Pressure tank says 0, so the pressure switch should engage by itself.
Running a shallow well pump from battery backup / split phase sine wave output inverter is fun. I see an initial spike of slightly over 10A (at about 230V) so that is about 2300 W (watts), then it settles down to about 3.3A (about 750 watts). Any drawbacks to doing this?
RC Worst? More like RC Best!!!
Great Explanation
Glad it was helpful!
I also record motor winding Ω readings at the pump, & at control box for future reference.
Good Tip!
I am building a house in Md. I have a well that's 900' deep that is water bearing at 162' and 820'. Rate of 1.2 gpm. Estimated 3000 gallons.
What do I need for a submersible pump and to have a temporary hydrant installed for the build? Thank you in advance for any info
Joe, please give us a call and we can help you size and select a pump: 855.329.4519
Just wanna ask, our water pump has difficulty in getting water..pressure gauge so slow to rise,what would be the problem? Thank you.🙂
DJ Sevilla could be a leak in the pipe coming up from the well pump or your pressure tank is very large, or your pump is wearing out.
One other thing. If the gauge rises slow and you are getting the water you need, your gauge may need to be replaced or the pipe that feeds it is clogged. Nothing should be galvanized iron. All copper, brass or stainless
Do we need to have a new source?
DJ Sevilla Do you mean a new well?
Yes
If you have a 30/50 switch then the pressure tank should be set at 28 psi. Ours is showing 37 psi and our well shuts off all the time. Could this be the problem?
As long as you are testing pressure with all the water pressure released to 0. Heres how. Turn off the well pump and pressure pump. Open valve some where in the system and let water run till no more water pressure in the system. Then you can take a pressure reading of the pressure tanks pressure at the pressure tanks Schrader valve. If you have a pressure switch that comes on at 30psi then set your pressure in pressure tank to 28psi. Then turn all the power back on to the pumps and let water pressure come back up to normal. I bet that is your problem as to your pump coming on too often.
Clear and concise. Thanks bro.
Glad it helped!
I have a WellXtrol reservoir tank that I installed a year ago. (I like it allot) Unless I missed it in your narrative, you must set the "head pressure" with the tank empty.
I would like to know if there is a way to minimize condensation on the reservoir tank. The bottom third gets really wet and then it sits around the bottom of the tank causing some so far, minor rusting. Also runs across the floor. Any tips?
Here's our video on how to check and adjust a pressure tank: th-cam.com/video/w21qa2bMUh8/w-d-xo.html&lc=Ugz-i49l3yKRl4Alrul4AaABAg
For the condensation, the area may need better ventilation or you can try insulating the pressure tank. A small dehumidifier would also work.
Great video. Informative, great pace, to the point, and doesn't drag out.
Thanks Gene!
Liked and subscribed! Our pump stopped working though it has electricity going to it and we are trying to figure out what exactly is the matter. Great tips.
We have a whole series on troubleshooting submersible pumps, feel free to call for help as well!
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. Thanks, I've been watching those videos in the series -- very informative! I was blessed to have a friend of a friend who knew all about wells a d well pumps come over and look at our setup.
It turns out we have a jet flow (?) pump style whereas today most of them are a %100 submersible motor+pump combo. It also happened that even thought we checked the breakers already, that there was a box of 30 amp circle time delay fuses that from the videos I've seen appear to be a nonstandard component in modern well pump systems. Replacing these fuses for $5 was the problem. They were in a box that was somewhat tricky to open.
Have you experienced fuses like thus in any setups your company has worked on?
Eric Hepperle same here 🙁
Eric, Fuses are a common component to older electrical systems. They were used before breakers became a standard. The performed the same function of limiting amperage for safety, rather than trip, they would burn out. There is not a big problem using fuses, they just lack the convenience of breakers. We have seen nearly everything in our 65+ years in the business and are happy to share our knowledge. If you are still having problems give us a call. 855.329.4519.
How do can I move the Pressure Switch from a pump like that to a water pressure pump? Now I have a pressure switch just on my well shall pump and I want to instal new Pressure tank in my house wich come with pre-installed pressure switch how do I rewiring pressure switch from the pump to pressure switch on my new pressure tank
I’ve used tiny different colored zip ties to I’d wire configuration. Also, you can take a picture and keep a copy of the photo in the sacred baggie of knowledge
Great tip!
Hi. My well pump cuts on for about a minute or two, and cuts off for 30sl seconds and repeats this cycle. What could be wrong.
Sounds like you either have a leak or water is being used somewhere.
What happens if you set the tank pressure a few lbs higher than the switch is set at?
The water pressure will drop to zero (no water) for a brief moment before the pressure switch closes and turns the pump on.
@@RCworstwater thanks again!
Thanks for this very informative video, well done.
Glad it was helpful!
Can you please tell me how to get one of the water testing kits? Thank you....Scott Burry
Here you go: www.rcworst.com/pro-lab-plbwq105-water-quality-test-kit.html
I keep losing power to my peroxide pump that is wired to the pressure switch. I have 220 coming to the switch for the well pump but my Stenner pump is 110. Wire to panel is tight. 3 people have looked at this but can't fix it. Currently I plug Stenner into another outlet and turn it on manually when we are going to use a fair amount of water.
What voltage are you supplying to the stenner pump? Is the pressure switch turning both your well pump and stenner pump off?
Do you put air in the tank with no water pressure or is it okay with water in the tank?
The tank must be completely empty (and power turned off) before you check/adjust the air pressure.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. thank you
How do I find how much pressure to use?
Give us a call to discuss: 855.329.4519
I’m surprised that he did not caveat that checking the tank pressure should be done when the bladder is empty.
I just found this great video and you answered the same question I was about to ask. Thanks James.
James F I am guessing also that that gauge used to check tank pressure should agree with the water pressure gauge.
@@bigpardner - They should agree only when the cut-off pressure is reached. You want the cut-in pressure to be a little more than the empty tank pressure.
Thanks, but that was not what I was wondering about. I am concerned that the two gauges both are calibrated to read the same pressure equally. So if you want the cut on water pressure to be 30 PSI and the tank air pressure to be 27-28 PSI, how can you be sure that the 2 gauges are calibrated the same so that this 2-3 PSI difference in fact exists? My limited experience with air gauges are that they are not that precise.
James F h
running the pump to watering the grass 8 hrs a day a good idea?
very good easy to understand video thank you.
I am having a leak at the top of the casing where the 90 degree pressure pipe meets at the top then
goes to the tank. I cannot reach it to fix it. Is this an expensive fix?
It sounds like you're talking about the pitless adapter, it is usually 4-6 feet down the well. If that is leaking it could need a new seal or replaced. In either case, you will need to have your pump and all the piping pulled and dig down to service it. The part itself is not too expensive, around $50-$100, but paying someone to do the work would be. We do sell pitless adapters at wholesale prices, give us a call if you want to get one or have questions: 855.329.4519
Great tips, thank you! I bought a home with a well a few years ago and have been steadily learning more about it, mainly through videos like these. My well seal was buried, and only recently found when I started having pump issues. The seal is now all cleaned up and surrounded by a sprinkler control box for easy access. Do you recommend shocking the well in this case? I'm not sure if that has ever been done.
It is a major learning curve along with well, septic tank with an aerobic system... Got it down 16 years later !
Super cool and usefull videos. Thank you man¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡ I'm learning a lot¡¡¡¡¡
Where do I order a water testing kit?-Thks-✅
Here: www.rcworst.com/pro-lab-plbwq105-water-quality-test-kit.html
Where can I get one of those water test kits he spoke about?
You can get them on our website here: www.rcworst.com/watersafe.html
What is your take on Cycle-Stop-Valves for residential use? Could you do a video explaining them? Thanks
CSV's are excellent in most situations, they are great at extending the runtime and overall life of the pump. We will definitely be making a video on them, thanks for the suggestion Kevin!
We just bought our home last July and it is the first home we’ve ever had that has well water. After a couple of months we started noticing a rotten egg smell and asked a plumber to come out who removed the anode rod from our water heater (which is the same age as our house-17 yrs old). We thought that would fix the problem with the smell but it didn’t. So I searched online about it and learned that we probably needed to chlorinate our well. My neighbor, who has done their own for the last 7 years, came over and told me how to do it. I should have wrote it down but I didn’t and completely left out an important step...and maybe more because I’m awesome like that.
One of the steps I know I forgot was to shut off the valves to our water softener (and the water heater (???)) to have the bleach bypass it/them. How do I fix this issue and what do I do in the meantime??
Thanks!
Thanks for the question Morgan, please give us a call to discuss your system: 855.329.4519
For the water test kit, do you do the testing also?
Matt: No, we do not do the testing. You can purchase a test kit by clicking on the link below. For an official test, we recommend using a certified laboratory in your area.
www.rcworst.com/Watersafe-WSFWS425W-Well-Water-Test-Kit-p14534.html
Seems to me it should be the installer's duty to record all this information somewhere standard just like the electrician labels the circuit-breaker box. I bought a house once where the electrician never labeled anything; what a massive headache to figure it all out later!
I agree completely.
cHANGED THE PRESSURE SWITCH. WATER RUNS FOR A FEW MINUTES THEN IT SHUTS OFF. WHAT SHOULD WE CHECK NEXT?
Patricia, that sounds like a normally working pressure switch. What is the problem?
The pressure switch shuts off or you don't have H20 after that?
"Well" done.
Does it matter how the pressure tank is mounted???
The pressure tanks can be mounted horizontally, but if you do they will need to be purged and clean out so debris does not scrape through the lining.
Great video, Lots of good information. Do you have any recommendations as to where I can get a 1” Ball Check Valve? The check valve on the well head manifold stopped working. Dislodged in the seating of the valve. I would add a photo, but Im unable to.
Thanks for the question. We do sell ball check valves, but for well water I would suggest a spring-assisted check valve instead because they close much faster: www.rcworst.com/Flomatic-80E-Enviro-4031E-Check-Valve-1-p1775.html
Very good information.
When did Edward Snowden start giving well water advice? 😝
WTF is that supposed to mean ??
😂😂
Great videos sir tank you thank you
Interesting , Thank You
Bro! Great stuff. Subscribed 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thank you! Good to know it.
Glad it was helpful!
What will happen if the air pressure in the pressure tank is not 2 psi below the turn on pressure?
Let's say it's 10 psi above or below? Anyone?
If it is too far above, the bladder could burst or start leaking.
If it is too far below, your pump cycles will be shorter, as the bladder will not force out enough water before then water pressure drops below the turn on preset.
buggsy5 ... Thank you for your response!
I Am a FARMER from ANDRA Pradesh India i had 3 7.5 hp 8 stage cri brand submersible pumps face lots of problems and facing tripping and failures of motors and fuse carrier of 63 amps plz plz suggest some thing and i our area no one recommends capacitor in stater panel plz how to connect capacitor in stater panel.
Thanks! Very helpful.
He says we have to add chlorine to our well water. We do not have a pool. Is he correct. He is the significant other.
My well is about 300 feet from my new house, and it currently has 1/2 inch pvc line running from the well to the new house location. I don't feel like running new 1-1/4 - 2 inch pvc line, so can I just add a pressure tank in my garage and connect the 1/2 inch pvc near by? This way, I can always have water in the pressure tank with 60 PSI to my house, and don't have to worry about the 300 feet distance from well to my house. Thanks.
Paul, please give our team a call: 855.329.4519
yall are amazing