Thanks for the info! I bought a used Ender 3 v2. With all noctua fans, bltouch with a raspberry pi 3b for $180. I added an all metal hotend and a Blokhead duct, and have been very happy. Learning how to use Fusion 360, it's satisfying watching an idea come to life!
I have an Ender 3, Ender 3 pro and a S1. I love the fact that I put the S1 together, Leveled the bed and the sucker just prints. Love it. Wish this would have been my first printer.
Thank you for all of your hard work educating newbies to 3D printing. You explain things very clearly and have made 3D printing accessible for me. I am at the beginning of my journey with the Ender 3 S1 and keep coming back to your videos when I have issues. The quality is still erratic but hopefully I will solve this soon.
May be a bit late but i can tell you things that made my printer run so much better. FIRST Make sure its square..use a carpenters square to make sure its completely how it should be, than Calibrate E-steps and movement steps. than make sure its leveled properly. after all that than you can play with setting in cura and really dial it in
Great video! I have an Ender 3V 2 which I have done several upgrades over the past few month. I have changed the extruder to a metal one. Changed the hot end to an all metal , added a Raspberry pi and a camera to monitor the printer using Octoprint and the Spaghetti Detective. I just ordered a Bltouch from Amazon that should arrive tomorrow and I intend on installing it over the weekend. I have also changed the filament location from on top of the printer to the side. I originally 3d printed one with bearing , however I recently acquired one that also serves to dry the filament if I need too. I also added a light on top and on the side of the printer. The Ender 3v2 has been a lot of fun. I am not very mechanically inclined but looking at your TH-cam videos and of others I have been able to install everything. The hardest part for my has been the required computer modification to use the Octoprint with the Raspberry pi and the software modification etc. That I needed my son to remotely fix that for me. I like this new Ender 3 S 1 Pro! I wish it had a larger print bed for larger print. Eventually I will get a second 3D printer but I would like for it to be with a larger print area. Thanks for all your wonderful TH-cam videos. I love how methodical you are with your explanations. Thanks again!
@tradde11 it works very well. Once you have installed the Raspberry Pi, the Octoprint ANG the webcam you can monitor your 3D printer via the internet on your computer or iPhone. The Octoprint everywhere allows you to monitor your print without the need for the Spaghetti Detective. However, the Spaghetti Detective has features that you don’t get with Octoprint everywhere. The Spaghetti Detective is a subscription service so there is a cost after the trial period. The Octoprint and Octoprint everywhere there is no subscription cost.
For my first 3d printer, I chose the S1. I didn't want the printer itself to be my hobby anymore than I want a paper printer to be a hobby. A printer is a tool to achieve the end result. I am very happy that I purchased this printer. It took me 15 mins to put it together. After running the auto bed leveling and setting the z-offset, I had my first print in less than an hour. There are many videos out there to show you how to out it together so don't bother with the manual. I learned how to design a bull gear in fusion 360 and printed a beautiful gear in PETG (although it took me 3 times to learn which orientation was the best). I've had this printer for 8 months and use it quite a lot and have done no maintenance on it (or screwing around with it) and it still prints like it was fresh from the box. There is one feature I wish it had and that is a way to remotely control it.
You just made me cancel my order of the Ender 3 and upgrade to the S1. I am running a printing business and have three CR-10 s prob V2 and thought I’d try a smaller cheaper printer. But the lack of dual z-axis and no BLTouch made me upgrade to the S1. You earned my sub thanks!
I bought an Ender 3 V1 and have basically upgraded it to a S1 level, with the exception of the filament runout sensor and the y-axis extrusion. Otherwise, it's an Ender 3 S1 with a Sprite Pro all-metal hotend. The control board is a 4.2.7, not the S1 board, but the firmware I use allows for all of the functionality of an S1.
With the S1 Pro coming out I hope they update earlier ender 3 firmware to have both 300c hotend support and bl touch support in the same firmware for those of us who did both upgrades.
why would they change the firmware on other older printers that are not sold in a option that allow up to 300c to allow that? if you are upgrading your printer like that and adding a bltouch then you should know how to compile your own firmware to suit that
I received an Ender 3 Pro as a gift about 3 years ago. I used it quite a bit in its stock configuration but then, due to circumstances, needed to store it for over 2 years. I recently pulled it from its tomb, brushed the dust off, and began printing with no issues. Excellent machine. I decided I no longer wanted to level it every before every print and began looking into upgrades. Went into my local MicroCenter for a glass bed to help with this and browsed the aftermarket boards, displays, and auto leveling options. It would cost ~$160 to get the Ender 3 Pro where I wanted it.. Then a rep let me know the S1 was on sale for $150, so I immediately picked one up. Got home and excitedly began the assembly process. The first thing I did was pull the new-to-me extruder assembly out of the box to check it out. The nozzle was horrifically crooked and one of the hot end set screws was stripped. That was tonight - I'll try to exchange tomorrow...
@@trygvealexandersolum6661 The exchange went well! I'm actually having more failed prints, though. I think that's because I'm feeling more daring with the new machine. I really do like it, though. I have my E3 Pro pretty modded with custom printed parts, but I haven't felt the need to mod the S1 yet at all.
As a new printer when I was comparing all these models my original idea was to get an ender 3 v2 and do all the usual upgrades and then I found the S1 and it had most of the upgrades I needed built in and it was wayyyy easier to assemble. If you can afford the S1 I think that’s the better option but what do I know… I’ve been printing for a whole 7 days
@@MakeWithTech it’s pretty fascinating stuff. I’d like to be able to grow this into some sort of extra income but even being able to make cool Knick knacks and doo dads whenever I feel like is pretty sweet too. Thanks for all the useful tips!!
Thanks for this video. I bought a 3D printer yesterday and have been stuck as to which one to buy and decided on the Ender 3 S1 in the end. After seeing your vid I'm glad I did as it seems I made the right decision. Very useful and reassuring.
Hey Irv, I have an Ender 3 V2 running with a Sonic Pad…I’m still working with a Bowden tube, but I’m looking forward to a Direct Drive…do you have any recommendations for a Direct Drive/HotEnd upgrade?
I brought a ender 3, December 2020 and then I brought a ender 3 max last September and I love the max. If I was to get another printer , it would be another ender 3 max.
Yeah I learned something. I learned with upgrades my ender can print brass. Nice! Thanks for the videos. Your very clear on your explanations which is very very welcome when dealing with 3d printers. Sometimes it's hard getting exact information or walk-throughs.
please i need your help....i want to buy my first printer..i liked the sovol sv06 on your video and the creality s1...can you recomend me wich one to buy of those two? I need it for printing tpu parts and rc planes for my hobby
Help! I disconnected the ethernet cable to my Raspberry PI to organize the cables and now I can't open octopi. It just shows a definition in google. How do I reconnect. I'm sure it has to be easy but don't know how. Thanks
I am looking to buy a new 3D printer, sold my Anycubic Mega over a year ago and wanting to get back into 3D printing. Have watched your reviews on the Flsun super Racer and this review on the Ender S1 pro, out of these two which would you recommended? I plan to print with mainly PLA but also flexible TPU.
Hello Sir I need help for a problem about Cura software. I checked on websites but cant find what it is.. When I open a model in cura and slice it it works fine. I mean I see how many hours gonna print etc. But when I want to change the size of the model or changing the position then trying to slice it cura cant slice it. Program is up to date. Just in case I uninstalled and reinstalled it but problem still goes on. Cant find what it is. Could you help me about it.
In the list of upgrades you forgot to add the dual Z screws and steppers. Those alone are also about 50usd. I have an Ender3 v2 with BL Touch, dual Z (single stepper version), Jyers UI and a mod to eliminate the wobble from the screws and it prints awesome. But I also know a few cases where they took the same printer (v2) with no upgrades and made quite some problems for those people... Mostly related to bed leveling and/or tilting the X axis towards the "far" end. Overall, if the budget affords it, I would say the S1 is WAY better in every aspect. And for a beginner the "press print and forget" ability is priceless.
Thanks for the review, Irv! I got the s1 a couple of months ago, and so far I've had no issues with it at all, but if I'd known about the Pro version, I would probably have opted for that for the high temperature capability, esp. TPU.
@@MakeWithTech That would be convenient! Otherwise, maybe I can put together the pieces on my own to get a higher-heat capable hot end. Actually when I got the printer, I didn't check to see if it has a PTFE tube for the heat break, but I wondered about it. Higher heat wasn't my first concern though, because all of my first projects can use PLA.
I had to comment before watching. Thank you for this video. I'm still using the first Ender3 with minimal upgrades. I installed a magnetic bed, stiffer bed springs and the silent stepper mounts. I'm still rocking the original 8 bit board, haha. Everything else is original. I've been very tempted to get the new S1 just to be in the "new times." Heck I was still using an iPhone 6 before I HAD to upgrade to the 12, LOL! Unfortunately, my current ender still prints very good and I'm usually not in a rush for a print. I'm still considering a S1 tho =) Thanks again for the video.
Got my ender3 s1 three weeks ago in a sale brand new in the box for £110 cheaper than asking price. So i paid £299 instead of £410 UK prices what a result, prints great straight out of the box. 🙂😁👍😎🇬🇧
Any advice for getting a cura profile for the S1? I got the S1 for my first printer but cura doesn’t have a profile for it and I don’t want to just select the ender 3 v2 or pro because the S1 has a direct drive extruder and I feel like that makes a difference. I don’t know how to export one from creality into it either nor what parameters to set to make my own. Any advice?
Kudos to Creality for fixing the ABL XY offset issue on this machine so that it now probes the bed in an equal and uniform fashion, I hope they will now fix the other 99% of their machines ABL firmware as well instead of leaving it to the community to fix
i got one at micro center about a month ago for 399. my 4th 3d printer and worth every cent. auto bed levelling is probably the biggest reason to spend the extra money but that extruder is close. i'm done with bowden printers. my 2nd printer was an anet a8. took about 8 hours lol
The only thing you need to upgrade to go to 300 with any Ender printer is the hotend to all metal and the Thermistor as the glass ball thermistor can't handle 300 at all and is inaccurate after 270. The heater cartridge is absolutely fine, it's just a heater and has enough power. The power supplies are absolutely fine, even the cheap ones Creality often supply. Meanwell one definitely is fine. If you get the Micro Swiss NG drop in replacement, it actually reuses the existing heater and can use the existing thermistor (if you don't want to pritn at higher temps). The glass ball thermistor will sort of read 300 but 300 might be 330 or might only be 280. Accuracy goes out the window. I remember getting my original Ender 5 several years ago. I didn't want a bed slinger so I paid a little extra for the Ender 5. Documentation definitely was not the best, but it did come with top and bottom already assembled, including the belts "pretensioned". So that meant after assembling it all, I then had to retesnion all the belts and adjust all the eccentric nuts on the V rollers. Creality has improved a bit since then, but when the printers ship over long distances they do still need a thorough check over when they arrive. I noticed with the Ender 3 S1, they still basically make it look like an incomplete kit though as there is still no back cover to cover the cables going to the screen. The steppers are still all exposed with nothingreally covering them. It really would only cost less than a few dollars to have some proper covers so it doesn't look like something kit made or home made sitting around. The original Ender 3 was not a good printer really. It took so much fiddling and modifications to make it actually print accetably. The S1 is a lot better, but they really need to up the game with the fit and finish of the printer.
im a prusa fan but they are indeed pricey (shipping cost and importation fee being an important factor); do you find comparable the S1 with Prusa MK3S+?
Hi. I have also watched your video from 1 year ago about “why you should buy a Pruser”.. Today, what you should recommend me: still a Prusa I3 MK3 S+ kit at 1000 dollars (including FedEx and custom taxes) or a Ender 3 S1 Pro at 500 dollars where I live. I have the extra money for the Prusa, like good quality tools, but is it worth the extra money? Thanks very much for you nice videos anyway.
The dual Z axis is a fairly significant cost upgrade a bit curious why it wasn't featured in the pricing breakdown. Coming in around the cost of the CR Touch, do you figure it's benefits (or lack there of) didn't make it worth mentioning?
@@MakeWithTech I upgraded my ender 3 v2 with the ender extender xl kit raising my print volume to 400x400x500 and get consistent z shift on taller prints at the same layer heights each time and have considered adding dual z to see if it may help, was one of the first things that jumped out at me about the s1.
@@MakeWithTech Thanks! What is its role? Is it to tell the system that the filament is in and available for printing? (i.e., sensing the end of spool scenario)
Thx for ur explanations dear. I was using your ender 3 v2 setting at cura which i was so happy : Fast and shiny prints i made with ur setting. Can u make video about cura settings for ender 3 s1 pro pls. Thx a lot
hi everyone... i'm going to buy my first print and i still not convinced on witch one. i'll manly print board game components/inserts and my plan is to print a lot. i believe a bed around 30x30x25 will be more than enough but i can go smaller for sure, PLA will be the main filament. i need something reliable and beginner friendly. Thank you all.
I think you made up my mind for me. I will buy the S1. I already own a CR6se and love it . I use my CR6 to print sculptures I design either in VR ( Medium) or in Tinkercad ( which you introduced me to) and Meshmixer. I have been looking for a second printer because I hate waiting to print while my work is becoming a reality. I also want a larger format printer maybe a 400mm x 300mm but I have not decided on one yet. Do you have arecomendation. I am not a hobbiest , not looking forward to building machines I can wait to print. Thanks for all your excellet videos.
That is a very good question. I am a big fan of the Ender 5 line of printers because I love the box frame. I would love to see the new S1 extruder on an Ender 5. Because of the S1 extruder I think overall it is a better printer, but it is close, and depends on your specific needs. Tough call.
I started with the S1 thinking because it already has all the major upgrades I wouldn't need to buy another printer for a while. A month later I'm building a voron.
@@MakeWithTech It's more that I'm getting into the hobby and thinking I wouldn't buy a second printer was naive. The S1 is a fine printer for the most part. My S1 is printing parts all day, and I want the Voron so I can quickly prototype new stuff while the S1 plugs away. The main thing the voron has over the S1 is speed. I'm starting with the V0.1 but will likely build the trident next if I'm happy with it. But building the voron is teaching me a lot, and the quality difference between things like the linear rails on the Voron and the wheels the S1 uses are staggering. I'm also having very slight z shifts about 1/4" up on every print on the S1 and I haven't been able to diagnose the problem yet. Overall I haven't been able to get the quality of prints I expected out of the S1, and at this point I think it's a mix of how new I am to the hobby/tuning settings as well as the overally build quality of the machine/possible defects. Because my focus is on functional parts, the slight dip in quality isn't the end of the world, but it is still frusterating.
Sir ender printer is good but it's frame is not so strong if you want to stop shift printing ; it is not a very big problem. only add correct editional supports.
Another great review video 👍😀 If you buy a Ender 3s1 Pro, you are close to the price of a Prusa, that is the blueprint for all the lower price printers. Quality costs! Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
18:13 PTFE tubes aren't "made with Teflon". Teflon is the original DuPont trade name for PTFE. It is only applied to products coming from Chemours. 19:00 Unless you've been informed that the S1 pro has an upgraded heater cartridge, thermistor, and power supply it's best not to say this. According to Creality you can still use all three of these parts to 300 C. In fact, I can tell you the PSU is NOT upgraded, and the only listed "upgrades" are the heatbreak to all metal, the LCD screen to touch, and an LED bar. 99% sure they reused the same heater cartridge, thermistor, and heater block.
Greetings from Sydney, Australia. Thanks for Another great video! - I have an Ender 3V 2 and would it be possible for you to do a comparison video for the Ender 3 S1 and the Ender 3 v2 at some point TIA.
Yep. 1980-1985 in Software Services. Specialized in working on projects to develop custom communications software. Mostly on VAX/VMS but also on RSX11M.
@@MakeWithTech I learned programming on an 11/780 and spent about 20 years working in VAX/VMS environments as a programmer and data center manager. DEC had such great products and it was so sad when they threw it all away because Ken Olsen wanted to produce mainframe computers. My company (Reuters) actually bought 2 VAX9000s. What a disaster.
Really when you look at the costs compare whats a good office printer cost that is multi function and prints on paper fast. $300-$400 maybe? This S1 isnt that bad a price really for what you can do with it! and the extras that you wont have to install afterwards
at over 100.00 for a hot-end, it's way too expensive. I had to buy another hot-end for my flsun qq-s pro for 46.00 canadian with shipping. at over 100.00, the hot end id 1/4 the price of the entire machine.
What hassle? The S1 worked right out of the box except for setting the z offset. I own a Prusa and you also have to run a calibration step to set the Z offset.
A better comparison would be a cheap heater and cheap thermistor ordered direct from triangle lab in china. Slice engineering is an American company. Also, slice engineering has extra heat shrink and crimp connectors that will need to cut off. The thermistor will need a connector crimped on.
An original Ender-3 is still a good base frame to completely make your own, but nothing you can suggest to someone with little to no interest in modding and tinkering. The Ender-3 S1 Pro I'd suggest to "newbies" and "normies" with zero reservation. The Ender-3 S1, however, decidedly not. Why? As nice as the included LED strip and the improved base are (enough so that I'm pointing them out), they obviously aren't gamechangers. But the Sprite Pro versus the Sprite definitely is. An all-metal extruder and an all-metal hotend cost barely more than their partially plastic counterparts on the market, let alone in production, while providing much more value - not just in breadth of filaments you can print reliably and safely, but also resistance to wear (no broken extruder parts or deteriorated heatbreak linings). No non-industrial printer needs a 500° C stock hotend, but there's no valid excuse for not shipping with a 300° C one in this day and age. And while I'm willing to just roll my eyes and shrug at Creality still using their dirt cheap classics in bowden setups, as you can get replacements and/or upgrades in all sorts of shapes and sizes easily, this does not fly for the Sprite, particularly at the time of the launch of the Ender-3 S1, as it's already a fairly pricey piece of equipment that ends up a complete waste of money if it wears out and/or you upgrade to all-metal solutions, replacement - let alone upgrade - heatbreaks (which everybody else has described as of a different shape than their classic one, but if a version of the Copperhead does indeed fit, that obviously mitigates matters) are only now becoming a thing, depending on the online stores you frequent, and respective extruder parts still aren't in sight at all as far as I am aware.
I would hold out and see what Voxelab come up with if I were thinking of buying this, their Aquila range which are Ender 3 V2 open source clones but with improvements and a much lower price is a much better deal allround, give it 3 months max and they will come up with a return serve to the pro machine also with improvements and a lower price if previous MO is followed
![[BEFORE vs AFTER] Incredibox Sprunki - Freaky Song](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xiZLkGWew6s/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the info! I bought a used Ender 3 v2. With all noctua fans, bltouch with a raspberry pi 3b for $180. I added an all metal hotend and a Blokhead duct, and have been very happy. Learning how to use Fusion 360, it's satisfying watching an idea come to life!
I have an Ender 3, Ender 3 pro and a S1. I love the fact that I put the S1 together, Leveled the bed and the sucker just prints. Love it. Wish this would have been my first printer.
I agree. I think Creality nailed it with the S1.
Thank you for all of your hard work educating newbies to 3D printing. You explain things very clearly and have made 3D printing accessible for me. I am at the beginning of my journey with the Ender 3 S1 and keep coming back to your videos when I have issues. The quality is still erratic but hopefully I will solve this soon.
May be a bit late but i can tell you things that made my printer run so much better. FIRST Make sure its square..use a carpenters square to make sure its completely how it should be, than Calibrate E-steps and movement steps. than make sure its leveled properly. after all that than you can play with setting in cura and really dial it in
Great video! I have an Ender 3V 2 which I have done several upgrades over the past few month. I have changed the extruder to a metal one. Changed the hot end to an all metal , added a Raspberry pi and a camera to monitor the printer using Octoprint and the Spaghetti Detective. I just ordered a Bltouch from Amazon that should arrive tomorrow and I intend on installing it over the weekend. I have also changed the filament location from on top of the printer to the side. I originally 3d printed one with bearing , however I recently acquired one that also serves to dry the filament if I need too. I also added a light on top and on the side of the printer.
The Ender 3v2 has been a lot of fun. I am not very mechanically inclined but looking at your TH-cam videos and of others I have been able to install everything.
The hardest part for my has been the required computer modification to use the Octoprint with the Raspberry pi and the software modification etc. That I needed my son to remotely fix that for me.
I like this new Ender 3 S 1 Pro! I wish it had a larger print bed for larger print.
Eventually I will get a second 3D printer but I would like for it to be with a larger print area.
Thanks for all your wonderful TH-cam videos. I love how methodical you are with your explanations.
Thanks again!
Thanks for your comment. I expect if the S1 design is successful it will become a family of printers including larger format printers.
@tradde11 it works very well. Once you have installed the Raspberry Pi, the Octoprint ANG the webcam you can monitor your 3D printer via the internet on your computer or iPhone. The Octoprint everywhere allows you to monitor your print without the need for the Spaghetti Detective. However, the Spaghetti Detective has features that you don’t get with Octoprint everywhere.
The Spaghetti Detective is a subscription service so there is a cost after the trial period. The Octoprint and Octoprint everywhere there is no subscription cost.
I am waiting on the 3S1 pro. Your channel is the absolute best, and well rounded.
I appreciate that!
Thanks, this video has given a concise explanation and has helped with my choice to upgrade to the S1 from an ender 3 original.
For my first 3d printer, I chose the S1. I didn't want the printer itself to be my hobby anymore than I want a paper printer to be a hobby. A printer is a tool to achieve the end result. I am very happy that I purchased this printer. It took me 15 mins to put it together. After running the auto bed leveling and setting the z-offset, I had my first print in less than an hour. There are many videos out there to show you how to out it together so don't bother with the manual. I learned how to design a bull gear in fusion 360 and printed a beautiful gear in PETG (although it took me 3 times to learn which orientation was the best). I've had this printer for 8 months and use it quite a lot and have done no maintenance on it (or screwing around with it) and it still prints like it was fresh from the box. There is one feature I wish it had and that is a way to remotely control it.
Is it noisy?
One thing to correct, Creality equips their original Ender 3s (the $189 one) with 32 bit boards now - the same thing used in more expensive ender 3s.
You just made me cancel my order of the Ender 3 and upgrade to the S1. I am running a printing business and have three CR-10 s prob V2 and thought I’d try a smaller cheaper printer. But the lack of dual z-axis and no BLTouch made me upgrade to the S1. You earned my sub thanks!
I bought an Ender 3 V1 and have basically upgraded it to a S1 level, with the exception of the filament runout sensor and the y-axis extrusion. Otherwise, it's an Ender 3 S1 with a Sprite Pro all-metal hotend. The control board is a 4.2.7, not the S1 board, but the firmware I use allows for all of the functionality of an S1.
With the S1 Pro coming out I hope they update earlier ender 3 firmware to have both 300c hotend support and bl touch support in the same firmware for those of us who did both upgrades.
Creality's weak spot is firmware. If they want to compete with Prusa they have to do a better job in this area.
Dont hold your breath they still havent fixed the ABL XY offset for 99% of their machines
why would they change the firmware on other older printers that are not sold in a option that allow up to 300c to allow that? if you are upgrading your printer like that and adding a bltouch then you should know how to compile your own firmware to suit that
@@Fisheiyy Maybe because they have released an upgraded hotend for that printer that does claim to be able to print at 300C
Sorry, at 23:22, the "Ender 2 S1 Pro" on that table should read "Ender 3 S1 Pro" ;)
Good catch. Thanks.
I received an Ender 3 Pro as a gift about 3 years ago. I used it quite a bit in its stock configuration but then, due to circumstances, needed to store it for over 2 years. I recently pulled it from its tomb, brushed the dust off, and began printing with no issues. Excellent machine. I decided I no longer wanted to level it every before every print and began looking into upgrades. Went into my local MicroCenter for a glass bed to help with this and browsed the aftermarket boards, displays, and auto leveling options. It would cost ~$160 to get the Ender 3 Pro where I wanted it.. Then a rep let me know the S1 was on sale for $150, so I immediately picked one up. Got home and excitedly began the assembly process. The first thing I did was pull the new-to-me extruder assembly out of the box to check it out. The nozzle was horrifically crooked and one of the hot end set screws was stripped. That was tonight - I'll try to exchange tomorrow...
How did it turn out and how would you compare it to the 3 Pro? Kinda in the same boat with should I update my 3 Pro or get an S1
@@trygvealexandersolum6661 The exchange went well! I'm actually having more failed prints, though. I think that's because I'm feeling more daring with the new machine. I really do like it, though. I have my E3 Pro pretty modded with custom printed parts, but I haven't felt the need to mod the S1 yet at all.
As a new printer when I was comparing all these models my original idea was to get an ender 3 v2 and do all the usual upgrades and then I found the S1 and it had most of the upgrades I needed built in and it was wayyyy easier to assemble. If you can afford the S1 I think that’s the better option but what do I know… I’ve been printing for a whole 7 days
I agree and I have been printing for 3 1/2 years and own 13 or 14 3d printers.
@@MakeWithTech it’s pretty fascinating stuff. I’d like to be able to grow this into some sort of extra income but even being able to make cool Knick knacks and doo dads whenever I feel like is pretty sweet too. Thanks for all the useful tips!!
you should have the got the ender 3 s1 pro xD
@@Fisheiyy it wasn’t a thing when I ordered my S1. It came out afterwards
Thanks for this video. I bought a 3D printer yesterday and have been stuck as to which one to buy and decided on the Ender 3 S1 in the end. After seeing your vid I'm glad I did as it seems I made the right decision. Very useful and reassuring.
Does the Jyers Custom Firmware actually already exist for the
Ender 3 S1 ❓
And if so where 👀 ❓
I would be very grateful for a tip... 🙂👋🏼
Thank you for the video. What about in compare to the Mingda printer you've reviewed recently? It seems like better deal than S1. What do you think?
Hi make with Tech can you made a video about how to install the firmware on geeetech 3d tech v3.2 Pro
Sorry I do not have any Greentech machines.
I love the S1. I removed the white PTFE tube from the hot end and replaced it with a piece of the high temp Capricorn tube.
Good move.
Hey Irv, I have an Ender 3 V2 running with a Sonic Pad…I’m still working with a Bowden tube, but I’m looking forward to a Direct Drive…do you have any recommendations for a Direct Drive/HotEnd upgrade?
I brought a ender 3, December 2020 and then I brought a ender 3 max last September and I love the max. If I was to get another printer , it would be another ender 3 max.
Can you recommend which 3d printer should I get
between the ender 3 S1 or the elegoo Neptune 3 pro ?
Yeah I learned something. I learned with upgrades my ender can print brass. Nice! Thanks for the videos. Your very clear on your explanations which is very very welcome when dealing with 3d printers. Sometimes it's hard getting exact information or walk-throughs.
please i need your help....i want to buy my first printer..i liked the sovol sv06 on your video and the creality s1...can you recomend me wich one to buy of those two? I need it for printing tpu parts and rc planes for my hobby
Thank you for this video. This is exactly the info I was looking for.
Help! I disconnected the ethernet cable to my Raspberry PI to organize the cables and now I can't open octopi. It just shows a definition in google. How do I reconnect. I'm sure it has to be easy but don't know how. Thanks
Thanks for this clear review.
Excellent Video !
What has everything the S1 Pro has but with a bigger build plate. ?
I am looking to buy a new 3D printer, sold my Anycubic Mega over a year ago and wanting to get back into 3D printing. Have watched your reviews on the Flsun super Racer and this review on the Ender S1 pro, out of these two which would you recommended? I plan to print with mainly PLA but also flexible TPU.
you just convince me to go with the Ender 3 S1 thanks !
Can I change the heatbreak on the 3S1 just because I don't like the plastic one?
Thanks Man! This is the exact review that I needed!
Hello Sir
I need help for a problem about Cura software. I checked on websites but cant find what it is.. When I open a model in cura and slice it it works fine. I mean I see how many hours gonna print etc. But when I want to change the size of the model or changing the position then trying to slice it cura cant slice it. Program is up to date. Just in case I uninstalled and reinstalled it but problem still goes on. Cant find what it is. Could you help me about it.
Make sure you are loading an stl file and not an already sliced gcode file.
In the list of upgrades you forgot to add the dual Z screws and steppers. Those alone are also about 50usd.
I have an Ender3 v2 with BL Touch, dual Z (single stepper version), Jyers UI and a mod to eliminate the wobble from the screws and it prints awesome. But I also know a few cases where they took the same printer (v2) with no upgrades and made quite some problems for those people... Mostly related to bed leveling and/or tilting the X axis towards the "far" end.
Overall, if the budget affords it, I would say the S1 is WAY better in every aspect. And for a beginner the "press print and forget" ability is priceless.
Yes your are correct I should have had that on the list. This just reenforces my impression that the S1 is a good value.
Thanks for the review, Irv! I got the s1 a couple of months ago, and so far I've had no issues with it at all, but if I'd known about the Pro version, I would probably have opted for that for the high temperature capability, esp. TPU.
Creality may offer a Pro upgrade at a future date.
@@MakeWithTech That would be convenient!
Otherwise, maybe I can put together the pieces on my own to get a higher-heat capable hot end.
Actually when I got the printer, I didn't check to see if it has a PTFE tube for the heat break, but I wondered about it. Higher heat wasn't my first concern though, because all of my first projects can use PLA.
The ender 3 s1 pro is already available on creality website, that one can handle 300 degreea
@Laydn. that s great~
I think with this addition, S1 really can compete with Prusa head-to-head
@Laydn. When you put a pro sprite extruder on a regular S1, is it necessary to upgrade anything else like the power supply or firmware?
I had to comment before watching. Thank you for this video. I'm still using the first Ender3 with minimal upgrades. I installed a magnetic bed, stiffer bed springs and the silent stepper mounts. I'm still rocking the original 8 bit board, haha. Everything else is original. I've been very tempted to get the new S1 just to be in the "new times." Heck I was still using an iPhone 6 before I HAD to upgrade to the 12, LOL! Unfortunately, my current ender still prints very good and I'm usually not in a rush for a print. I'm still considering a S1 tho =) Thanks again for the video.
Got my ender3 s1 three weeks ago in a sale brand new in the box for £110 cheaper than asking price. So i paid £299 instead of £410 UK prices what a result, prints great straight out of the box. 🙂😁👍😎🇬🇧
I agree.
Can you adjust the z offset during a print like a creality cr10-max ?
Very good information, thank you.
Any advice for getting a cura profile for the S1? I got the S1 for my first printer but cura doesn’t have a profile for it and I don’t want to just select the ender 3 v2 or pro because the S1 has a direct drive extruder and I feel like that makes a difference. I don’t know how to export one from creality into it either nor what parameters to set to make my own. Any advice?
Just start with an Ender 3 V2 and adjust the retraction down to 1 or 1.5 mm for PLA and 2mm for TPU.
Kudos to Creality for fixing the ABL XY offset issue on this machine so that it now probes the bed in an equal and uniform fashion, I hope they will now fix the other 99% of their machines ABL firmware as well instead of leaving it to the community to fix
Hey, I just found your channel. I really enjoy your teaching style. Very clear, and understandable. Thank you very much.
Solid information well presented. Thanks!
Just love all your videos! But I am still confused.. Ender 3 S1 or Ender 5 Pro!!!
Thanks for the great review. I just picked up a Ender 3 S1 from Micro Center with a new user coupon for $200. For this price how could I go wrong.
Please make video on resin printer
Creality halot one vs Anycubic photon
Not a fan of resin. Too much mess and for my use cases it does not offer a lot of advantages.
The electronic enclosure looks amazing. I need to mod that into a V2.
The industrial engineering on this machine is quite nice.
Where can i get the s1 pro? Is it out yet?
How that E3 S1 compares to Mingda Magician x?
just got S1 in China for $300, and S1 Pro for $400, both worked smoothly
Thanks for sharing.
Yesterday I bought an open box (looks new) Ender 3 S1 at Micro Center for $118.00. Big upgrade from my old Flash Forge Pro.
i got one at micro center about a month ago for 399. my 4th 3d printer and worth every cent. auto bed levelling is probably the biggest reason to spend the extra money but that extruder is close. i'm done with bowden printers. my 2nd printer was an anet a8. took about 8 hours lol
Irv, you're a superstar. What a good review
Thanks. I hope it helps people select the correct machine.
Great video!! Thank you.
The only thing you need to upgrade to go to 300 with any Ender printer is the hotend to all metal and the Thermistor as the glass ball thermistor can't handle 300 at all and is inaccurate after 270. The heater cartridge is absolutely fine, it's just a heater and has enough power. The power supplies are absolutely fine, even the cheap ones Creality often supply. Meanwell one definitely is fine. If you get the Micro Swiss NG drop in replacement, it actually reuses the existing heater and can use the existing thermistor (if you don't want to pritn at higher temps). The glass ball thermistor will sort of read 300 but 300 might be 330 or might only be 280. Accuracy goes out the window.
I remember getting my original Ender 5 several years ago. I didn't want a bed slinger so I paid a little extra for the Ender 5. Documentation definitely was not the best, but it did come with top and bottom already assembled, including the belts "pretensioned".
So that meant after assembling it all, I then had to retesnion all the belts and adjust all the eccentric nuts on the V rollers. Creality has improved a bit since then, but when the printers ship over long distances they do still need a thorough check over when they arrive.
I noticed with the Ender 3 S1, they still basically make it look like an incomplete kit though as there is still no back cover to cover the cables going to the screen. The steppers are still all exposed with nothingreally covering them. It really would only cost less than a few dollars to have some proper covers so it doesn't look like something kit made or home made sitting around. The original Ender 3 was not a good printer really. It took so much fiddling and modifications to make it actually print accetably. The S1 is a lot better, but they really need to up the game with the fit and finish of the printer.
im a prusa fan but they are indeed pricey (shipping cost and importation fee being an important factor); do you find comparable the S1 with Prusa MK3S+?
Hi. I have also watched your video from 1 year ago about “why you should buy a Pruser”.. Today, what you should recommend me: still a Prusa I3 MK3 S+ kit at 1000 dollars (including FedEx and custom taxes) or a Ender 3 S1 Pro at 500 dollars where I live. I have the extra money for the Prusa, like good quality tools, but is it worth the extra money? Thanks very much for you nice videos anyway.
which 3d printer would you recommend as the first 3d printer? for hobbies.
Mingda Magician X, Ender 3 V2 or Ender 3 S1.
very well said - all of it; thanks. I just went through the thought process and came to the same conclusions (though not as well thought out)
The dual Z axis is a fairly significant cost upgrade a bit curious why it wasn't featured in the pricing breakdown. Coming in around the cost of the CR Touch, do you figure it's benefits (or lack there of) didn't make it worth mentioning?
Great point. It would take extensive testing to see the impact. I expect it helps with the higher speed prints.
@@MakeWithTech I upgraded my ender 3 v2 with the ender extender xl kit raising my print volume to 400x400x500 and get consistent z shift on taller prints at the same layer heights each time and have considered adding dual z to see if it may help, was one of the first things that jumped out at me about the s1.
Great review! Thanks!
Got the S1 coming tomorrow and managed to nab an early black Friday deal - £219 delivered.
Wow. Great price
@@MakeWithTech Wow, fast reply. Thanks for the help in your videos. New sub from me.
Great vid, thanks! Did I miss the filament sensor story?
I think I spoke about it briefly. Basically it works and does not seem to impact extrusion at all.
@@MakeWithTech Thanks! What is its role? Is it to tell the system that the filament is in and available for printing? (i.e., sensing the end of spool scenario)
Thx for ur explanations dear. I was using your ender 3 v2 setting at cura which i was so happy : Fast and shiny prints i made with ur setting. Can u make video about cura settings for ender 3 s1 pro pls. Thx a lot
hi everyone...
i'm going to buy my first print and i still not convinced on witch one.
i'll manly print board game components/inserts and my plan is to print a lot.
i believe a bed around 30x30x25 will be more than enough but i can go smaller for sure, PLA will be the main filament.
i need something reliable and beginner friendly.
Thank you all.
Excellent video ! 👍
Thank you very much!
I think you made up my mind for me. I will buy the S1. I already own a CR6se and love it . I use my CR6 to print sculptures I design either in VR ( Medium) or in Tinkercad ( which you introduced me to) and Meshmixer. I have been looking for a second printer because I hate waiting to print while my work is becoming a reality. I also want a larger format printer maybe a 400mm x 300mm but I have not decided on one yet. Do you have arecomendation. I am not a hobbiest , not looking forward to building machines I can wait to print. Thanks for all your excellet videos.
Is the endor 3 s1 worth the extra money over ender 5 pro?
That is a very good question. I am a big fan of the Ender 5 line of printers because I love the box frame. I would love to see the new S1 extruder on an Ender 5. Because of the S1 extruder I think overall it is a better printer, but it is close, and depends on your specific needs. Tough call.
@@MakeWithTech Thanks man for the reply, I ended up ordering the s1 as my first 3d printer.
I started with the S1 thinking because it already has all the major upgrades I wouldn't need to buy another printer for a while.
A month later I'm building a voron.
@caramelzappa What capabilities are you looking for that the S1 did not have that you expect from the voron?
@@MakeWithTech
It's more that I'm getting into the hobby and thinking I wouldn't buy a second printer was naive. The S1 is a fine printer for the most part. My S1 is printing parts all day, and I want the Voron so I can quickly prototype new stuff while the S1 plugs away.
The main thing the voron has over the S1 is speed. I'm starting with the V0.1 but will likely build the trident next if I'm happy with it.
But building the voron is teaching me a lot, and the quality difference between things like the linear rails on the Voron and the wheels the S1 uses are staggering. I'm also having very slight z shifts about 1/4" up on every print on the S1 and I haven't been able to diagnose the problem yet.
Overall I haven't been able to get the quality of prints I expected out of the S1, and at this point I think it's a mix of how new I am to the hobby/tuning settings as well as the overally build quality of the machine/possible defects. Because my focus is on functional parts, the slight dip in quality isn't the end of the world, but it is still frusterating.
Sir ender printer is good but it's frame is not so strong if you want to stop shift printing ; it is not a very big problem.
only add correct editional supports.
Got an S1 from micro center for only $200, best decision of my life
Another great review video 👍😀
If you buy a Ender 3s1 Pro, you are close to the price of a Prusa, that is the blueprint for all the lower price printers. Quality costs!
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
I think I would buy the S1 Pro over the Prusa. It is much easier to maintain. The Prusa advantage is their exceptional firmware.
the screen on the S1 pro is different from the s1
Well done drvax..I heard good things about the S1 ....nobody needs a dinosaur like the E3..better ,cheaper options out there.
I am quite impressed. Hope to have an opportunity to try an S1 pro with high temperature professional filament.
@@MakeWithTech ..and don't forget the enclosure 😉
A review from. 4 years ago say the e3 is the best $200 printer. It's a dinosaur...? Do people these days have a hard time comprehending age?
Amazing video 🎉👍
18:13 PTFE tubes aren't "made with Teflon". Teflon is the original DuPont trade name for PTFE. It is only applied to products coming from Chemours.
19:00 Unless you've been informed that the S1 pro has an upgraded heater cartridge, thermistor, and power supply it's best not to say this. According to Creality you can still use all three of these parts to 300 C. In fact, I can tell you the PSU is NOT upgraded, and the only listed "upgrades" are the heatbreak to all metal, the LCD screen to touch, and an LED bar. 99% sure they reused the same heater cartridge, thermistor, and heater block.
The "Sprite" extruder might be coming available for the Ender 3 series for around $110
you can make an ender 3 into an almost s1 if you want to do the work. but 400 is a good price and it's been awesome since the first print.
Greetings from Sydney, Australia. Thanks for Another great video! - I have an Ender 3V 2 and would it be possible for you to do a comparison video for the Ender 3 S1 and the Ender 3 v2 at some point TIA.
I was curious about the former name of your channel. Did you work on DEC Vax computers in the past?
Yep. 1980-1985 in Software Services. Specialized in working on projects to develop custom communications software. Mostly on VAX/VMS but also on RSX11M.
@@MakeWithTech I learned programming on an 11/780 and spent about 20 years working in VAX/VMS environments as a programmer and data center manager. DEC had such great products and it was so sad when they threw it all away because Ken Olsen wanted to produce mainframe computers. My company (Reuters) actually bought 2 VAX9000s. What a disaster.
I agree. When facing the future you need to embrace it. DEC failed to see the power of the new PC architectures.
Really when you look at the costs compare whats a good office printer cost that is multi function and prints on paper fast. $300-$400 maybe? This S1 isnt that bad a price really for what you can do with it! and the extras that you wont have to install afterwards
I got my Ender 3 Pro for 150€ with the 4.2.7 board, sonI could buy upgrades and get the same result with less money
Took me 4 days to build mine.
Not fun. Sound like you had so trouble.
As a newbie, took me 3-4hrs taking it easy Ender 3 V2
the one u have in the video is the a ender 3 pro, not the ender 3
Ii built my ender 3 v2 in 3 hours
Thanks for sharing.
Same here
at over 100.00 for a hot-end, it's way too expensive. I had to buy another hot-end for my flsun qq-s pro for 46.00 canadian with shipping. at over 100.00, the hot end id 1/4 the price of the entire machine.
This hot end assembly includes the extruder and a very compact high power stepper motor. I think it is a fair price.
@@MakeWithTech Ahhh, with the extruder and a stepper, then definitely but, can they be purchased separately?.
Buy a Prusa and avoid all the hassle.
What hassle? The S1 worked right out of the box except for setting the z offset. I own a Prusa and you also have to run a calibration step to set the Z offset.
Fanboyyyyy
@@sizaint Yes, I am.
They should have gone all metal hotend instead of charging nearly $100 more.
Hardware costs money and all metal hot ends are more difficult to tune than ptfe hot ends.
the s1 is looking similar to an upgraded cr6
A better comparison would be a cheap heater and cheap thermistor ordered direct from triangle lab in china. Slice engineering is an American company. Also, slice engineering has extra heat shrink and crimp connectors that will need to cut off. The thermistor will need a connector crimped on.
An original Ender-3 is still a good base frame to completely make your own, but nothing you can suggest to someone with little to no interest in modding and tinkering. The Ender-3 S1 Pro I'd suggest to "newbies" and "normies" with zero reservation. The Ender-3 S1, however, decidedly not. Why? As nice as the included LED strip and the improved base are (enough so that I'm pointing them out), they obviously aren't gamechangers. But the Sprite Pro versus the Sprite definitely is. An all-metal extruder and an all-metal hotend cost barely more than their partially plastic counterparts on the market, let alone in production, while providing much more value - not just in breadth of filaments you can print reliably and safely, but also resistance to wear (no broken extruder parts or deteriorated heatbreak linings). No non-industrial printer needs a 500° C stock hotend, but there's no valid excuse for not shipping with a 300° C one in this day and age. And while I'm willing to just roll my eyes and shrug at Creality still using their dirt cheap classics in bowden setups, as you can get replacements and/or upgrades in all sorts of shapes and sizes easily, this does not fly for the Sprite, particularly at the time of the launch of the Ender-3 S1, as it's already a fairly pricey piece of equipment that ends up a complete waste of money if it wears out and/or you upgrade to all-metal solutions, replacement - let alone upgrade - heatbreaks (which everybody else has described as of a different shape than their classic one, but if a version of the Copperhead does indeed fit, that obviously mitigates matters) are only now becoming a thing, depending on the online stores you frequent, and respective extruder parts still aren't in sight at all as far as I am aware.
“Knob based touch screen.” Well then it’s not a touch screen, is it?
Great machines but their naming convention could be better.
Playing this video with 1.5 speed feels still a little bit slow.
I would hold out and see what Voxelab come up with if I were thinking of buying this, their Aquila range which are Ender 3 V2 open source clones but with improvements and a much lower price is a much better deal allround, give it 3 months max and they will come up with a return serve to the pro machine also with improvements and a lower price if previous MO is followed
I assembled it in 9 minutes flat…..why would anyone take a hour? 😆
"zoomed out" is that code for some new drug the kids are doing
🤣🤣😂😂 "a knob based touch screen" Thats Not even a thing.. This is No touch screen.
thank you very much