I didn't miss the exhaust stud comment. I'm just classy enough to realize you knew what you meant and I knew what you meant and you didn't need a reminder!
And as a side note: The number of times we hear slips of the tongue from TH-cam Creators - especially when talking about pretty complex technical topics involving a lot of parts and nomenclature - is considerable. Enough that I now assume I make similar slips of the tongue ALL THE TIME, but nobody has a camera in my face or a comment section to call me out on them.
'Medium twine' refers to the Hemp twine plumbers used to use back in the day to seal certain types of plumbing pipework joints, Hemp has been replaced by PTFE tape and liquid sealants such as made by Loctite
Every time I see one of those motorbikes resembles me the day I visited the National Motorcycle Museum up in Coventry, England. There were hundred's of gems like this one and in impeccable condition, of course. I got rather nuts. That's a thing you don't want to miss if you are an English motorbike fan, but probably you have already been there.
It's so nice seeing you going whole hog on these projects. So many other times I see people trying to do stuff by just bolting together some off-the-shelf parts and beating them with a hammer until they sort of fit. And if it makes them happy then that's ok, but it's nice to see someone take the "let's do it right and make it perfect" route. Really inspiring.
Paul and Mitch, great job! I would love to own and ride such a classic small motorcycle, overhauled completely with an insane amount of detail! Cheers from a poor Finnish engineering student.
Instead of those anodised collars you have made for the fork shrouds Norton have a rubber version. To get the fork legs up I use an old top nut with the hex turned off and drilled through , then use a threaded rod and nuts.
I had noticed the exhaust studs like probably many others. But I thought that it was not my place to improve a genius because of a slip of the tongue. And I think I wasn't alone with that thought.
I like your no compromise approach to building things, I also have motorcycles from my childhood that I work on, its refreshing to find a kindred mechanic.
Hi Paul, I've only recently found your channel & now I'm addicted. I've just recently had a small operation, & I'm not to drive or ride bikes for a couple of weeks.So, I continue to watch & learn from your excellent videos, as I feel you are the master. Well Done. Paul Lucas . Cardiff U.K.
No surprise to me, Paul, that a 21st century Canadian broom handle doesn't work. The broomstick that you need has to be a) English, b) pre Beatles and c) bought 2nd hand from a witch... And, fyi, back in '50s Britain everything was made using medium twine. The string that won world wars... And, of course, we spotted the exhaust stud gaffe, but we just added it to the list of things that transpondians misname... Cotter pin = split pin, cotter key = cotter pin, et alia... Thoroughly enjoyable and instructive, as always. Many thanks. (And you're going to regret eschewing that bit of string)...
@@paulbrodie Possibly, but, possibly not quite exactly the right size. Your best bet is to get some big twine and reduce it in your lathe. We don't have much in England these days but we have faith that the professor will make it right... Seriously, 50s technology called for string....
@@billdyke9745 If my forks do weep I will pull them apart and use some of that teflon tape stuff. Quite a few comments urging me to use that stuff. Thanks.
That’s the nicest Cub pipe I’ve ever seen👍🏼 Those gaiters are for 69/70 Triumph twins. No clamps required. I know you’ll just make them work which is fine. Finding quality reproduction parts for these bikes is a “Royal” pain. So much junk out there. There are good suppliers here in the States but not sure if they will ship to you. Baxter Cycles is a good resource with online access to original parts books and photos of the actual part. As for sealing the threads on the seal holders, Blue Loctite or a light wipe of clear RTV works just fine. After 1968 there’s an internal o ring groove cut midway in the seal holder threads that works ok but I still seal them. Campy grease… I still have a half full 500g tub from my roadbike days. They sell for big $ on eBay😁
Great content and excellent production from Mitch! Always enjoy updates on “the most expensive Tiger Cub restoration” ever. The rarity of hand crafted tools and parts is inspiring. Nothing is “good enough”!
Hello Paul & Mitch. As always, thank you for another enjoyable episode. Regarding the mismatch in the exhaust tubing, that's because bends, even mandrel bends, get a bit of a D shape -- the outside of the bend flattens out a bit and pulls down against the mandrel, which is necessarily slightly undersized. I've done quite a bit of exhaust fabrication, and over the years, I've made tools that help with this -- it's a short cone about 1/2" long that leads up to a 1/8" long cylindrical diameter which is sized for the inner diameter of the exhaust tubing. On my tools, I put a shoulder on it to stop the tool from entering further into the tube, although this is probably not strictly necessary. This die gets mounted on an air-hammer shank (.401", an odd size to be sure.) With the air hammer, it re-forms the shape of the bend to match straight tubing. It takes a lot of force to make this work and it's loud. I've always wondered about making a rotary tool which has 5 large ball bearings 72° apart and a very long, shallow taper which drive into the space between the bearings to enlarge the effective diameter as the tool rotates.
Thanks Alan, I did consider cutting the bend along the length and welding in a sliver of stainless to make the OD bigger, but that didn't happen. Oh well, it turned out ok.
I convinced myself the 'exhaust studs' had to be deliberate. Personally, I've been using Teflon plumbers paste for 25~30 years to seal threads and as an anti-seize for stainless steel screws in aluminium. It's far less likely to cause galvanic corrosion between stainless and aluminium than any other form of anti-seize (until you start getting into the stuff they use on aircraft, in power plants, etc) You could probably get lever clamps from an older Indian Enfield, They would be a direct copy of 1955 levers. May take a little while to get from India though
I like my Maguras. They have the correct look and style for my taste. the older Maguras had a single pinch bolt to clamp. Those are the ones I was referring to. I have used lots of Teflon tape, not Teflon paste.
@@paulbrodie Italian brake and clutch levers, always 'competition' . Cable ends metric and smaller than British ones I had some Magura's on a Sprite trials bike (125 Zundapp motor, early 70's) but no idea if my brother snatched them when I moved to USA as I had fitted them to a Royal Enfield 250 trials?
I have a similar set-up on the forks of my Carabela project and what I have is aluminum crush washers between the lower stanchion and the sleeve nut - this takes place of the twine and was there prior to me, so probably factory. However, I also found the wrong seals (which can no longer be bought BTW) and a 4" piece of broom handle in the tube - so there was that too. The ali washers had formed to the thread so they had to be unscrewed, deburred and put back.
In the uk all our broom handles come pre threaded to fit a fork stanchion. You should have said sooner Iv got loads of different thread variations knocking around.
I watch your videos to learn something new, not critique every order of operation you do in your shop on your bikes on your channel. Great craftsmanship and cool bikes.
Same here, when I was growing up. There was a place that had 100's of old bikes and parts, now it's difficult to find a older bike, 10years or older, 20years at best, nothing , any the same with cars, seems cash for clunkers took everything! I hate that program!
Another great video guys. This project is cracking on and very interesting. I found your Channel from a comment on the Doghouse Channel, and to use current jargon I have binge watched all your stuff while self isolating with COVID. Keep up the good work !
when I was assembling my 74 maico forks which are exterior spring forks too, we took an old fork cap and filed off the ridge so that it would fit into the triple clamps, taking a piece of all thread and washers we created a tool to pul the fork tubes up through the triple clamps it worked really well, your is nicer for sure. poor folks have poor ways. we discovered that the older style tower for the levers were actually a different pull ratio and worked better than the newer style that claps on with two bolts. I may have a one or two in my collection, I will look and see. If you find one before I the weekend fine if not, and if I can find mine then I would be happy to send it your way. thanks for the great videos. like I said before, I like old bikes. I have enjoyed the videos on frame building too,, best wishes
Turn the bike upside down to use a broomstick and avoid wood chip contamination if you don't have a lathe. Rubber slicing tape around a pair of indentations in the broomstick can lock the stick in place by rotating until the rubber tape piles up inside. You have to work quickly before the tape begins to self vulcanize or it slips. Rotate the other way to remove it or just pull really hard. If that all makes sense. I can't remember the brand of the bike but it was old in 75 and the broom handle did come from the manual.
@@paulbrodie No worries, I think the 534 levers are a similar style to the Magura ones I imagine you're looking for, but not sure if the blade shape is exactly the same.
Hi there, I forgot to tell you, that, in that last video, you made one helluva mistake, calling those cylinder bolts " exhaust studs " he, he. Just a joke, you make some amazing work !
@@paulbrodie Yes, I know that, nobody is perfect, but the good thing about you is, that you are showing your mistakes on the video, when at the same time, it would be easy, to erase them and pretend to be perfect. Only a man that does not do anything, is not making any mistakes. Like the guy that sed : " Only at one time in my live, I thought I was wrong, but I was mistaken. " 😂
hi Paul yes very sure oil seals always face with the open end toward the oil, when the oil is compressed it causes pressure to pushes the seal against the fork stanchion, the way it is now pressure will oil push past the seal. kind regards, Adrian.
Some PTFE tape would be a suitable replacement for twine, 4-6 wraps would normally suffice. You're also missing the washers from the fork caps. Nice to see her coming back together.
Thanks Sid. I'm assuming that PTFE tape is teflon tape? The thread is very fine and a close fit, so I'm not sure how many wraps would work. I will look for fork cap washers!
@@paulbrodie that's the stuff, you'll be surprised how much it compresses into the joint, I would start with 4-6 wraps and see how it goes. We all know old Brit bikes like to leak oil, stops the rust and ensures we always have fresh oil in them... 🤣 As for the washers, Triumph changed their parts like most normal humans change their socks. Try looking for part number 97-0862 to give you a rough guide, I'm led to believe the forks were also used on the BSA Bantam D7 to D10 models so that might open your options up. Will be around the same thickness as the head spindle washer you almost forgot. TBH the washers aren't essential but they do help to stop the nuts from damaging the surface finishes.
Loctite also make a thread sealing cord called Loctite 55, which is used as an alternative to PTFE tape. It’s basically a modern version of ‘wicking’ cord mentioned by another viewer.
@@sidwainhouse Thanks Sid. If my forks weep too much I will take them apart and install tape. In the meantime it's an experiment. The nuts do have a relief under the hex protrusions, so washers aren't 100% required. I'll probably machine a couple out of 6061 on my lathe. Have you seen the cost of shipping?
That would have been a lot more work. I doubt very much a set of Timken bearing would fit perfectly. And then races have to be ground, head stocks machined out, etc. And you know what? Ball bearings, in good condition, work just fine.
Paul where did you get your fork tubes/stanchions from? Im really confused by mine as they measure 22" and two 16ths long but im told they should be 21"
hi Paul your fork oil seals are in upside down, and there should be two washers under the fork top nuts. lovely vids keep them going kind regards, Adrian.
General fork seal information for discussion and as starting point to compare to the Tiger Cub design. The square edge goes towards the oil to keep the oil inside. Occasionally one seal is actually a dust seal or wiper and the square edge goes towards the dust to keep the dust outside.
@@WireWeHere I've been working on british motorcycle for over 45 years and never put oil seals in like that, please read bsa/triumph fork oil seal orientation. the oil seal as a small spring inside to hold the seal against the stanchion and the spring always faces the oil. and the information have pointed out is for the very early cub with two oil seals in the chrome dust covers like the bsa c15.
@@a65builder67 I'm referring to the contact surface with the inner fork tube as in the sealing surfaces that have relative movement between them. The spring is visible from the high pressure side with most designs that use one.
@@WireWeHere hi rjm yes your quite right the spring is on the high pressure side, when the stanchion is compressed into the fork slider it causes compression which is high pressure were the oil is being forced up between the stanchion and slider and bushes resulting in oil pressure to the seal. with kind regards Adrian.
I laughed at the time when you mentioned exhaust stud, but we all use the wrong words sometimes, and we all knew what you meant, so no point in picking you up on it. This is a Gentlemen’s Channel, so need to be churlish lol.
I remember packing headsets and hubs with loose balls and adjusting the hub cones so that with the quick release clamped they were adjusted perfectly, none of this sealed bearing nonsense. 😀 Why do you use the white lithium grease and not that tub of Maxima waterproof grease that I have seen on your work bench?
The levels If you contact britbits Motorcycles in Christchurch England he has his leavers you are talking about plus also it seems funny to see you working on those forks normally the British Trimph Tiger cubs have a really spindly horrible pair of forks it was only the ones made for export and I think only a few very very few where ever sold in England with that type fork hell of a lot nicer nice to see you putting it back together Michael
Just thought that "Exhaust Studs" might be a Canadianism - Anyway, wouldn't have the temerity to question the words chosen by a proper engineer and film maker - Thanks Paul
Just like front fender. An Americanism. What does it fend off or does it fend for itself. It's a MUD GUARD Paul. Especially on a British bike? Just kidding, I say front Fender as it happens too LOL
Great Video as always guys! I'm not criticizing, just asking a question does the stainless not require back purging with gas? Thanks again for posting videos they bring me a great deal of relaxation after a long day at work.
Yes, it would be nice to purge, but I would need a separate tank of argon... I have made several stainless exhaust systems over the years, never purged, and never had a problem.
@@paulbrodie Not necessarily a separate tank - there are regulators with two outputs. Also, Solar Flux works fantastic for exhausts. If you want a technical reason for why to flux/backgas, the "sugar" on the inside of the weld will create turbulence and disturb the flow of the exhaust gas. :)
Paul, try De Groot in Holland for the single pinch bolt levers, also - I fitted one of the Indian speedos to my ZB350 and I disassembled the cable end, re-soldered it and hammered the different square to match the speedo. A modified brass electrical cable gland matched the thread to the speedo cable entrance and all worked fine. The accuracy was poor- but the Irish equivalent of the 'bobbies' didn't mind- great gas altogether
@@johnpublic168 I have Timken roller bearings in Ruby Racer, and also all of the Excelsior board trackers I have constructed. They work fine, and so do regular ball bearings.
Hi Another good video I've got a question - if you are restoring the bike why are you using allen bolts and not original style bolts? (I'm assuming the allen bolts aren't original parts sorry if i'm wrong)
Thanks for clarifying that the exhaust pipe is Stainless Steel. How did you prevent sugaring on the back of the welds? It doesn't look like you were back purging with argon gas inside the pipe.
I don't have a second bottle of argon for purging. It's not food or medical, so my exhaust says a little sugaring is ok. I've made several stainless systems over the years and no issues.
Gold spark plug??? PPPPBBBBTTTT! I got platinum spark plugs. And I also caught the exhaust stud mis-speak. I know I do it all time explaining IT processes to people.
The tiger cub frame was not very good. The brace oil tank from the steering head back to the mid frame strengthens the frame and gets rid of the oil tank at the side. I think Sammy miller has them . But knowing you you could design and make your own
I still remember being 15 and taking the gas tank off my Cub. And being shocked (at 15..) that the factory had left out a very important tube. Yes, I could make a fancy oil tank, but then I couldn't use the stock gas tank. It will be fine. Thanks for watching.
Why have the English never made a computer? They can’t get them to leak oil I hung over a fender and wrenched on British sorts cars for two years If I remember the twine was for packing rear seals Great series
Ah ah ! Nice joke with these exhaust studs ! It could be cool to make some other mistakes from times to times, just to know who has the best eagle eyes…
Of course they aren't EXAUST STUDS! Everybody knows that they're CARBONATOR SCRUTINIZERS!!! Seriously, though... another fabricator that I watch always keeps a compressed air gun ready while he welds, to cool things off before they warp. See if that helps...
@@paulbrodie yes, Bad Chad swears by it. He does a lot of cutting and welding custom cars. When butt welding sheet metal, he'll make up to about 4 spots in a row (anout an inch or so), blow it cool, then jump about 4 inches and repeat. Once he makes it to the end of the weld, he cycles back to the beginning, andoes another series of spots, repeating the process until he's done. With your cub header pipe, I'd try a couple of spots, blow it cool, rotate a 1/4 of the dia, etc. Cooling really seems to solve the warp problem you described. Try it on some scrap tubing. He does mig welding, and if he has a large gap to fill, he'll use a coat hanger on steel, or a similar metal rod like you do with your tig.
We caught it but we know a senior moment when we see one.
I didn't miss the exhaust stud comment. I'm just classy enough to realize you knew what you meant and I knew what you meant and you didn't need a reminder!
And as a side note: The number of times we hear slips of the tongue from TH-cam Creators - especially when talking about pretty complex technical topics involving a lot of parts and nomenclature - is considerable. Enough that I now assume I make similar slips of the tongue ALL THE TIME, but nobody has a camera in my face or a comment section to call me out on them.
Thanks Bradley. I like to think my brain is well connected to my mouth, but apparently not.
@@paulbrodie I've lived long enough to realise that I'd sound a lot cooler if I had a team of script-writers writing all my dialogue for me. ;-)
Same for me here. Silence is elegance.
Which of course is nearly forgotten wisdom today
@@Surestick88 I don't have even one script writer...
'Medium twine' refers to the Hemp twine plumbers used to use back in the day to seal certain types of plumbing pipework joints, Hemp has been replaced by PTFE tape and liquid sealants such as made by Loctite
Hemp and grease is still used on pipe threads in more industrial situations and where PTFE could not be used.
That's great that Hemp twine had a dedicated use on a British motorcycle. It only adds to the mystique of English motorcycles!
Hemp twine and grease still used by plumbers here in Zoo Nealand
My father still uses Hemp and grease to repair our rain machine (not sure if that is the best translation, but Google said so)
Damn, now I am Paul Brodie fan and I have a Triumph Tiger Cub fever. 😂
Thanks Marko. I know the cure. Do you?
@@paulbrodie I do. But I already have one T140/T120 custom project on the table. Well, at least now I know what I will do after that one is finished.
@@markotuomas672 Great. You have a plan!
Senior moments, God bless them .Mine keep me and my family amused for hours.
The handlebar clamps look like they're supposed to be there, very nice result. Bike starting to look the goods. Thanks Paul.
Thank you.
In lieu of twine, how about a wrap of Teflon plumber tape? It's not affected by most chemicals, is very thin, and seals well.
Yes, in the comments there has been much discussion on teflon tape...
The Cub is going to be a fun little bike.
I am a little excited about riding that bike. I hope it sounds good with the custom pipe.
@@paulbrodie If it sounds as good as it looks, you'll be happy!
Every time I see one of those motorbikes resembles me the day I visited the National Motorcycle Museum up in Coventry, England. There were hundred's of gems like this one and in impeccable condition, of course. I got rather nuts. That's a thing you don't want to miss if you are an English motorbike fan, but probably you have already been there.
I left England when I was nine, so I don't believe I have been there.
Like Rotax said, you can now use PTFE tape. There are 2 basic types, one for plumbing and one for gas fitting, the gas tape is thicker.
Thanks!
It's so nice seeing you going whole hog on these projects. So many other times I see people trying to do stuff by just bolting together some off-the-shelf parts and beating them with a hammer until they sort of fit. And if it makes them happy then that's ok, but it's nice to see someone take the "let's do it right and make it perfect" route. Really inspiring.
Nicoya, thanks for watching. I am fussy and I do like to do the best job I can.
Thanks for getting me into board track racing from 100 years ago.
They are cool bikes and there is a lot of history there.
Paul and Mitch, great job! I would love to own and ride such a classic small motorcycle, overhauled completely with an insane amount of detail! Cheers from a poor Finnish engineering student.
Patte, thanks for watching and commenting.
Instead of those anodised collars you have made for the fork shrouds Norton have a rubber version. To get the fork legs up I use an old top nut with the hex turned off and drilled through , then use a threaded rod and nuts.
I had noticed the exhaust studs like probably many others. But I thought that it was not my place to improve a genius because of a slip of the tongue. And I think I wasn't alone with that thought.
I like to think that my brain is well connected to my mouth, but in truth, it is not. Thanks for watching!
I like your no compromise approach to building things, I also have motorcycles from my childhood that I work on, its refreshing to find a kindred mechanic.
Gordon, thanks for hanging out in my shop :)
Hi Paul, I've only recently found your channel & now I'm addicted. I've just recently had a small operation, & I'm not to drive or ride bikes for a couple of weeks.So, I continue to watch & learn from your excellent videos, as I feel you are the master. Well Done. Paul Lucas . Cardiff U.K.
Paul, thanks for watching and commenting. I am originally from the UK..
I really love tha way you work and the way you explain! Everything seems so simple....but it's not! Very inspirating!
Thank you Fra, I appreciate your comments.
Hi Paul.. Loving the Tiger show..
The Tiger Show! That's new... George, thanks for watching.
Que tremendo proyecto! vengo viendo video a video
No surprise to me, Paul, that a 21st century Canadian broom handle doesn't work. The broomstick that you need has to be a) English, b) pre Beatles and c) bought 2nd hand from a witch... And, fyi, back in '50s Britain everything was made using medium twine. The string that won world wars... And, of course, we spotted the exhaust stud gaffe, but we just added it to the list of things that transpondians misname... Cotter pin = split pin, cotter key = cotter pin, et alia... Thoroughly enjoyable and instructive, as always. Many thanks. (And you're going to regret eschewing that bit of string)...
Thanks Bill. I wonder if Canadian Tire sells medium twine?
@@paulbrodie Possibly, but, possibly not quite exactly the right size. Your best bet is to get some big twine and reduce it in your lathe. We don't have much in England these days but we have faith that the professor will make it right... Seriously, 50s technology called for string....
@@billdyke9745 If my forks do weep I will pull them apart and use some of that teflon tape stuff. Quite a few comments urging me to use that stuff. Thanks.
That’s the nicest Cub pipe I’ve ever seen👍🏼
Those gaiters are for 69/70 Triumph twins. No clamps required. I know you’ll just make them work which is fine. Finding quality reproduction parts for these bikes is a “Royal” pain. So much junk out there. There are good suppliers here in the States but not sure if they will ship to you. Baxter Cycles is a good resource with online access to original parts books and photos of the actual part.
As for sealing the threads on the seal holders, Blue Loctite or a light wipe of clear RTV works just fine. After 1968 there’s an internal o ring groove cut midway in the seal holder threads that works ok but I still seal them.
Campy grease… I still have a half full 500g tub from my roadbike days. They sell for big $ on eBay😁
Thank you classicrestoration. I am enjoying myself with this build. I'm using white lithium grease but I don't believe it is Campy.
👍👏👌
Cheers Chris
Hi Chris :)
Great content and excellent production from Mitch! Always enjoy updates on “the most expensive Tiger Cub restoration” ever. The rarity of hand crafted tools and parts is inspiring. Nothing is “good enough”!
Thank you. It's not really a restoration; I'm just building it "my way".
Mr. Brodie, i've watched all your videos and just wanted to say that you're such a genius. How you made the exhaust shows that even more!!!
Thank you Flip A.
Again spot on. That's one lucky Cub!!!!
That exhaust looks great, the lines and the fabrication are spot on.
Nice.
Thank you very much.
Hello Paul & Mitch. As always, thank you for another enjoyable episode. Regarding the mismatch in the exhaust tubing, that's because bends, even mandrel bends, get a bit of a D shape -- the outside of the bend flattens out a bit and pulls down against the mandrel, which is necessarily slightly undersized. I've done quite a bit of exhaust fabrication, and over the years, I've made tools that help with this -- it's a short cone about 1/2" long that leads up to a 1/8" long cylindrical diameter which is sized for the inner diameter of the exhaust tubing. On my tools, I put a shoulder on it to stop the tool from entering further into the tube, although this is probably not strictly necessary. This die gets mounted on an air-hammer shank (.401", an odd size to be sure.) With the air hammer, it re-forms the shape of the bend to match straight tubing. It takes a lot of force to make this work and it's loud. I've always wondered about making a rotary tool which has 5 large ball bearings 72° apart and a very long, shallow taper which drive into the space between the bearings to enlarge the effective diameter as the tool rotates.
Thanks Alan, I did consider cutting the bend along the length and welding in a sliver of stainless to make the OD bigger, but that didn't happen. Oh well, it turned out ok.
Wow Paul! the header looks beautiful
Thank you John.
i useto use a old top nut drile a hole in use threaded bar (remove the excess so tha it fits) also dsa use a washer under the fork nut just saying
You could also use a plumbing product called wickin. It is highly absorbent.Bike is a work of art.RMM
Thank you Robery.
nice bit of kit
Fork installation tool is available in the aftermarket. Does the same thing your shop made tool does. Shown in the Triumph factory workshop manual.
Good thing I have one that works. And don't have to resort to the infamous broom handle. Thanks for the info.
Thanks Paul. Those tires look perfect on that bike! :)
Not good for cornering hard, but I do like the "look" too.
I convinced myself the 'exhaust studs' had to be deliberate.
Personally, I've been using Teflon plumbers paste for 25~30 years to seal threads and as an anti-seize for stainless steel screws in aluminium. It's far less likely to cause galvanic corrosion between stainless and aluminium than any other form of anti-seize (until you start getting into the stuff they use on aircraft, in power plants, etc)
You could probably get lever clamps from an older Indian Enfield, They would be a direct copy of 1955 levers. May take a little while to get from India though
I like my Maguras. They have the correct look and style for my taste. the older Maguras had a single pinch bolt to clamp. Those are the ones I was referring to. I have used lots of Teflon tape, not Teflon paste.
@@paulbrodie Italian brake and clutch levers, always 'competition' . Cable ends metric and smaller than British ones
I had some Magura's on a Sprite trials bike (125 Zundapp motor, early 70's) but no idea if my brother snatched them when I moved to USA as I had fitted them to a Royal Enfield 250 trials?
Great stuff! Restoring a Tiger Cub with my son right now.
Can you post a link of where you got that speedometer?
Thank you. I went to eBay and they are made in India. $50. I'm told they don't last too long, but we will find out.
Loving this series on the cub I had a 1957 cub that I spent a couple of years restoring. Brings back lots of memories :)
This is my first Cub that I completely pulled apart. It brings back memories of the Cub I owned 50 years ago.
I have a similar set-up on the forks of my Carabela project and what I have is aluminum crush washers between the lower stanchion and the sleeve nut - this takes place of the twine and was there prior to me, so probably factory. However, I also found the wrong seals (which can no longer be bought BTW) and a 4" piece of broom handle in the tube - so there was that too. The ali washers had formed to the thread so they had to be unscrewed, deburred and put back.
Yes, I had to order the seals from the UK as they are completely non standard, and my local bearing and seal supplier had nothing..
"Spot the deliberate mistake" chain tensioners, not axle adjusters, spindle we say in the UK!
Thanks, great video.
Thanks G Man.
I have over 100 brake levers for 7/8" bar but nothing to go up a size
What are the threads you cut into the end of the "fork guide" that could be a broomstick handle, but I prefer not.
The threads are the same as the fork caps that screw into the fork tubes. Are you wanting me to measure the OD and check the TPI?
In the uk all our broom handles come pre threaded to fit a fork stanchion. You should have said sooner Iv got loads of different thread variations knocking around.
Yes, I know when you're pulling my leg. It's a wonderful notion that the UK has pre threaded broom handles for many fork stanchions.
I watch your videos to learn something new, not critique every order of operation you do in your shop on your bikes on your channel. Great craftsmanship and cool bikes.
Thanks for that!
Same here, when I was growing up. There was a place that had 100's of old bikes and parts, now it's difficult to find a older bike, 10years or older, 20years at best, nothing , any the same with cars, seems cash for clunkers took everything! I hate that program!
The world has definitely changed!
Love the cub videos Paul keep em going!
Thanks David.
Another great video guys. This project is cracking on and very interesting. I found your Channel from a comment on the Doghouse Channel, and to use current jargon I have binge watched all your stuff while self isolating with COVID. Keep up the good work !
Awesome, thank you!
Coming together beautifully, lovely bike a credit to you.
Thank you James.
when I was assembling my 74 maico forks which are exterior spring forks too, we took an old fork cap and filed off the ridge so that it would fit into the triple clamps, taking a piece of all thread and washers we created a tool to pul the fork tubes up through the triple clamps it worked really well, your is nicer for sure. poor folks have poor ways. we discovered that the older style tower for the levers were actually a different pull ratio and worked better than the newer style that claps on with two bolts. I may have a one or two in my collection, I will look and see. If you find one before I the weekend fine if not, and if I can find mine then I would be happy to send it your way. thanks for the great videos. like I said before, I like old bikes. I have enjoyed the videos on frame building too,, best wishes
Thom, thanks for watching and commenting :)
Turn the bike upside down to use a broomstick and avoid wood chip contamination if you don't have a lathe. Rubber slicing tape around a pair of indentations in the broomstick can lock the stick in place by rotating until the rubber tape piles up inside. You have to work quickly before the tape begins to self vulcanize or it slips. Rotate the other way to remove it or just pull really hard.
If that all makes sense. I can't remember the brand of the bike but it was old in 75 and the broom handle did come from the manual.
I see you have some experience with a broom handle! Thanks for watching and commenting.
"Brand new balls" 😂
Yes, that's what a guy needs every once in a while.
18:54 "Yokes" if you please, after all it's a Brit bike! 🙂
Hi Paul. You can buy the Amal type "1 piece clamp" levers from In Motion Trials in the UK. They come in black or polished alloy.
Thanks Roland. I will take a look. I am partial to Magura levers...
@@paulbrodie No worries, I think the 534 levers are a similar style to the Magura ones I imagine you're looking for, but not sure if the blade shape is exactly the same.
Hi there, I forgot to tell you, that, in that last video, you made one helluva mistake, calling those cylinder bolts " exhaust studs " he, he. Just a joke, you make some amazing work !
Yes, I am not perfect, and I do make mistakes, and some of them do get caught on camera. Thanks for liking our videos 😉
@@paulbrodie Yes, I know that, nobody is perfect, but the good thing about you is, that you are showing your mistakes on the video, when at the same time, it would be easy, to erase them and pretend to be perfect.
Only a man that does not do anything, is not making any mistakes.
Like the guy that sed : " Only at one time in my live, I thought I was wrong, but I was mistaken. " 😂
hi Paul yes very sure oil seals always face with the open end toward the oil, when the oil is compressed it causes pressure to pushes the seal
against the fork stanchion, the way it is now pressure will oil push past the seal.
kind regards,
Adrian.
Yes, that's how I installed them: open end towards the oil.
Ah .. the front end ,, coffee to hand and here we go.
Amal type levers are on eBay or dragonfly spares are what your after
I do like the shape of the Magura dogleg. And I am fussy.
Use PTFE plumber’s tape on the thread.
Someone else mentioned that too, thanks.
Some PTFE tape would be a suitable replacement for twine, 4-6 wraps would normally suffice.
You're also missing the washers from the fork caps.
Nice to see her coming back together.
Thanks Sid. I'm assuming that PTFE tape is teflon tape? The thread is very fine and a close fit, so I'm not sure how many wraps would work. I will look for fork cap washers!
@@paulbrodie that's the stuff, you'll be surprised how much it compresses into the joint, I would start with 4-6 wraps and see how it goes. We all know old Brit bikes like to leak oil, stops the rust and ensures we always have fresh oil in them... 🤣
As for the washers, Triumph changed their parts like most normal humans change their socks. Try looking for part number 97-0862 to give you a rough guide, I'm led to believe the forks were also used on the BSA Bantam D7 to D10 models so that might open your options up. Will be around the same thickness as the head spindle washer you almost forgot.
TBH the washers aren't essential but they do help to stop the nuts from damaging the surface finishes.
Loctite also make a thread sealing cord called Loctite 55, which is used as an alternative to PTFE tape. It’s basically a modern version of ‘wicking’ cord mentioned by another viewer.
@@sidwainhouse Thanks Sid. If my forks weep too much I will take them apart and install tape. In the meantime it's an experiment. The nuts do have a relief under the hex protrusions, so washers aren't 100% required. I'll probably machine a couple out of 6061 on my lathe. Have you seen the cost of shipping?
@@paulbrodie shipping costs would be a bit high for a couple of washers… 😂
Paul I have the one bolt lever...we can switch...I need the one with two bolts!
Do you have left and right? Maybe send me an email with a photo, thanks.
@@paulbrodie I sended you the picture via FB!
I caught it, but I thought it no big deal. I knew what you meant...Lol...sort of like naming all your kids before you get to the right one...
Good response!
Curious why you didn't go to timkin bearings in the steering head.
That would have been a lot more work. I doubt very much a set of Timken bearing would fit perfectly. And then races have to be ground, head stocks machined out, etc. And you know what? Ball bearings, in good condition, work just fine.
Ciao un assemblaggio perfetto 👏👏👏
Paul where did you get your fork tubes/stanchions from? Im really confused by mine as they measure 22" and two 16ths long but im told they should be 21"
hi Paul your fork oil seals are in upside down, and there should be two washers under the fork top nuts. lovely vids keep them going
kind regards,
Adrian.
I was very careful with the orientation of the the fork seals. Are you sure? I will find washers.
General fork seal information for discussion and as starting point to compare to the Tiger Cub design.
The square edge goes towards the oil to keep the oil inside.
Occasionally one seal is actually a dust seal or wiper and the square edge goes towards the dust to keep the dust outside.
@@WireWeHere I've been working on british motorcycle for over 45 years and never put oil seals in like that, please read bsa/triumph fork oil seal orientation. the oil seal as a small spring inside to hold the seal against the stanchion and the spring always faces the oil. and the information have pointed out is for the very early cub with two oil seals in the chrome dust covers like the bsa c15.
@@a65builder67 I'm referring to the contact surface with the inner fork tube as in the sealing surfaces that have relative movement between them. The spring is visible from the high pressure side with most designs that use one.
@@WireWeHere hi rjm yes your quite right the spring is on the high pressure side, when the stanchion is compressed into the fork slider it causes compression which is high pressure were the oil is being forced up between the stanchion and slider and bushes resulting in oil pressure to the seal. with kind regards Adrian.
I laughed at the time when you mentioned exhaust stud, but we all use the wrong words sometimes, and we all knew what you meant, so no point in picking you up on it. This is a Gentlemen’s Channel, so need to be churlish lol.
It's been called the Tiger Show, and now the Gentlemen's Channel. Thank you Christopher!
See! now I've done it, I meant to say NO need to be churlish. Lol
I remember packing headsets and hubs with loose balls and adjusting the hub cones so that with the quick release clamped they were adjusted perfectly, none of this sealed bearing nonsense. 😀 Why do you use the white lithium grease and not that tub of Maxima waterproof grease that I have seen on your work bench?
Yes, I have 2 greases. Which one I use depends on my mood. Can't think of any other reason to use one and not the other...
@@paulbrodie I guess as long as you service things regularly it doesn't really matter. Remember the old green Phil Wood grease?
@@fvillago65 I do remember...
Sickkkk
Exactly.
What brand are your "t" handle wrenches? I'd like a set
Are you referring to my Allen T-handles? If you email me I will check the brand. I believe they are German. Nice quality!
The levels If you contact britbits Motorcycles in Christchurch England he has his leavers you are talking about plus also it seems funny to see you working on those forks normally the British Trimph Tiger cubs have a really spindly horrible pair of forks it was only the ones made for export and I think only a few very very few where ever sold in England with that type fork hell of a lot nicer nice to see you putting it back together
Michael
Yes, I have the "heavyweight" forks. They do look a lot better than the other Cub lightweight forks, which I also have. Michael, thanks for watching.
would a bit of plumbers white silicon tape have worked to seal it?
Quite a few have mentioned teflon tape. If my forks weep I will try some. In the meantime...
Just thought that "Exhaust Studs" might be a Canadianism - Anyway, wouldn't have the temerity to question the words chosen by a proper engineer and film maker - Thanks Paul
Just like front fender. An Americanism. What does it fend off or does it fend for itself. It's a MUD GUARD Paul. Especially on a British bike? Just kidding, I say front Fender as it happens too LOL
Nice vid
Thank you DaveBuilds.
👍👍
Great Video as always guys! I'm not criticizing, just asking a question does the stainless not require back purging with gas? Thanks again for posting videos they bring me a great deal of relaxation after a long day at work.
On an exhaust it doesnt, On something where FOOD or Drink will go thru it you would - but not for this application
Yes, it would be nice to purge, but I would need a separate tank of argon... I have made several stainless exhaust systems over the years, never purged, and never had a problem.
@@paulbrodie Not necessarily a separate tank - there are regulators with two outputs. Also, Solar Flux works fantastic for exhausts. If you want a technical reason for why to flux/backgas, the "sugar" on the inside of the weld will create turbulence and disturb the flow of the exhaust gas. :)
@@Alanbataar Thanks Alan. If there is a disturbance inside my exhaust it will not be reported!
Look up DOMINO hand controls, I like them better than Magura for European bike restorations
I did. That's what I have on my TRS trials bike, throttle too! Hard to beat the shape of the Magura dog-leg lever. I am fussy. Thanks.
Paul says "lube" and "balls" they same way Sir David Attenborough says "booby" 😆
Paul ur a very funny guy. (In ireland ud b called a' gas man,)or hes great gas.
Paul, try De Groot in Holland for the single pinch bolt levers, also - I fitted one of the Indian speedos to my ZB350 and I disassembled the cable end, re-soldered it and hammered the different square to match the speedo. A modified brass electrical cable gland matched the thread to the speedo cable entrance and all worked fine. The accuracy was poor- but the Irish equivalent of the 'bobbies' didn't mind- great gas altogether
What happened to the timkins
Who has timkins?
@@paulbrodie timkins in the steering head. You dont like them?
@@johnpublic168 I have Timken roller bearings in Ruby Racer, and also all of the Excelsior board trackers I have constructed. They work fine, and so do regular ball bearings.
Hi
Another good video
I've got a question - if you are restoring the bike why are you using allen bolts and not original style bolts?
(I'm assuming the allen bolts aren't original parts sorry if i'm wrong)
Thank you. I'm not doing a restoration. I'm just building a Cub that suits my style. Having fun. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Ah ok
I wondered if you like those Allen bolts because of all your bicycle work
👍
Oh I fought it but I thought I’d let you slide, lol.
Instead of twine check out gate valve packing
Thanks for clarifying that the exhaust pipe is Stainless Steel. How did you prevent sugaring on the back of the welds? It doesn't look like you were back purging with argon gas inside the pipe.
I don't have a second bottle of argon for purging. It's not food or medical, so my exhaust says a little sugaring is ok. I've made several stainless systems over the years and no issues.
Gold spark plug??? PPPPBBBBTTTT! I got platinum spark plugs. And I also caught the exhaust stud mis-speak. I know I do it all time explaining IT processes to people.
I am very happy with my gold spark plug!
The tiger cub frame was not very good. The brace oil tank from the steering head back to the mid frame strengthens the frame and gets rid of the oil tank at the side. I think Sammy miller has them . But knowing you you could design and make your own
I still remember being 15 and taking the gas tank off my Cub. And being shocked (at 15..) that the factory had left out a very important tube. Yes, I could make a fancy oil tank, but then I couldn't use the stock gas tank. It will be fine. Thanks for watching.
You can restore my cycle anytime
Campy grease on that headset I betcha
White lithium for sure, but not Campy, sorry.
I caught 'exhaust studs', but I was too polite to mention it.. Discretion is the better part of valour, after all.
Thanks Tom.
on all the triumph forks ive built i have used ptfe plummers tape to seal the oil seal holder threads and the gaitors look like they are for a t120 .
Why have the English never made a computer?
They can’t get them to leak oil
I hung over a fender and wrenched on British sorts cars for two years
If I remember the twine was for packing rear seals
Great series
You have some strong points. Thanks for watching!
Oh we caught it alright, we didn't comment as a show of respect.
Leslie, thank you for your respect.
I was too exhausted to critique you.
I see.
Ah ah ! Nice joke with these exhaust studs ! It could be cool to make some other mistakes from times to times, just to know who has the best eagle eyes…
Don't worry, I make mistakes all the time...
You're getting good value for money or of that tub of grease! It looks like you could pass it onto grand children and it still won't run out.
Yes, but I haven't shown the 5 gallon pail I started with several decades ago...
What he said....l
Of course they aren't EXAUST STUDS! Everybody knows that they're CARBONATOR SCRUTINIZERS!!!
Seriously, though... another fabricator that I watch always keeps a compressed air gun ready while he welds, to cool things off before they warp. See if that helps...
Tom... sense of humour! Never heard of blowing a weld to keep it cool. That's a new one.
@@paulbrodie yes, Bad Chad swears by it. He does a lot of cutting and welding custom cars. When butt welding sheet metal, he'll make up to about 4 spots in a row (anout an inch or so), blow it cool, then jump about 4 inches and repeat. Once he makes it to the end of the weld, he cycles back to the beginning, andoes another series of spots, repeating the process until he's done. With your cub header pipe, I'd try a couple of spots, blow it cool, rotate a 1/4 of the dia, etc. Cooling really seems to solve the warp problem you described. Try it on some scrap tubing. He does mig welding, and if he has a large gap to fill, he'll use a coat hanger on steel, or a similar metal rod like you do with your tig.
@@tomfortson2684 I was filling in low spots about 1/2" wide, so it's not the standard welding practice. I will keep the air cooling in mind, thanks.
Regarding the fork... something British leaking oil? Preposterous, unbelievable. English made items never leak oil!
I am hoping I can make the engine oil tight. Maybe I'm dreaming?
It can't leak oil if you never fill it with any. ;)
@@Metal-Possum But, I do want to ride it.
You make me want to build better
Always trying to raise the bar, and not copy. Thanks for watching :)
That is the wankiest headstock I believe I've ever seen
Yes, I first saw that when I was 15 and I knew that somehow it wasn't right.. The gas tank is a stressed member, right?