It's amazing how vitally important the saddle (such a tiny thing) is to the quality of sound your guitar gets to produce. Many thanks for the upload! I made a brand new bone saddle for my instrument today, and the sound is really great.
The old saddle with the chips. I get that with tusq. A tusq nut is ok but I am setting up acoustic guitars I take the tusq saddle out put bone in 😅 Thanks for the video ✌️💜🎸🎶
Hey, maybe you can help me to answer some not standart question: - I want to lower my action, but not for all 6 strings. The 6th string (low E) and also maybe the 5th and 4th should stay at same height, but 3rd, 2nd and 1st - should be proportionally lower. Lets say right now I have 6th string 2.5mm and 1st 2.0mm. Goal Is to have 6th string 2.4-2.5mm and 1st string like 1.5-1.6mm. So far I have 2 options in mind: 1) sand the saddle from the bottom with specific angle. Where X1 with be the starting point at the left bottom corner and X2 is the right corner + 1mm. It shoul keep the 6st string at same height, 5th a bit lower, 4th lower than 5th and so on until 1st. 2) Working on the top of the saddle by changing the radius at 1-3 strings. But here comes the question of compensation. Will it affect anything in this case? overall, could you please advise how to proceed here? I really can not find such information anywhere on the internet.
the saddle has a prefixed angle on it so sanding the the bottom it all stil has to remain Flat or you get problems . your nut is also the same sorta deal how ever you can adjust heights of the strings at the nut end but you have to be carefull either way drop it to low youll get fret buzz , so first adjust the neck so you have .10 tho clearance and can go a bit straighter but never run dead flat neck that can cause problems to. the neck controls some of your string distance for sure but to straight or to bent problems there is a sweet spot where it's perfect. how ever make sure to check all frets for high and low frets that all need to be even in heights as well. other wise problems happen, this is not an easy question to answer best advice take it to a professional tech that is also respected and tell him or her what you want and they can offer you the best solution for your exact guitar...screwing with electric guitars is way less hassel and what you do is easy to reverse acoustics are not very forgiving in this area
@@KevinMillard68 I managed to get the NUT side as low as possible based on all guidances on the internet. I have a Furch guitar and they did brilliant solution (no, sarcasm...). The Fretboard Radius is 15.75" and original saddle radius was 12". Having such setup makes the 6th and 1st string to be "lowest" and 3th/4th as "heighest". I replaced the saddle to match the radius of the Fretboard. But by this way - all the strings have same height over the neck. But as you know the thicker the string is - the less space remains to the fretboard. And now this is why I want to apply this changes, which I described above. My 6h string physically lower, than the 1st string. And in my Playingstyle (modern fingerstyle / classic) I need often hit 6th string much harder than the others, if I do to much - I get buzz and its fine, I have to control this power. But the 1st string... It just have to much backup space, which 1) not comforable, as I really need to play a lot of 1-3 strings 2) it wont be used as hard as the 6th string by having like 30% more unneeded backup space (until buzz), maybe even more... Guitar Tech... I have only one guitar tech in my envinroment and I'm still waiting for it 4 weeks. I just decided to learn everything by myself... its also interesting and it won't be superfluous :) P.S. Here I did a screenshot about my 5 cent (wrong) thinking i.imgur.com/2x1l01C.png the bottom will be flat in this case hm.
Fine infos, thank you ! So you have any hints for me how the material of the saddle supports or changes the sound to more "clear" Or more "warm and soft" (plastic or bone) Kind regards, Markus
Trying to upgrade a cheapie "guitar in a box" Gibson Maestro after a string pin snapped. I wanted to use Black Tusq but after watching this, I'm realizing the one that was the closest to my original is a compensated saddle compared to the stick straight butcher job that was in it (but what do you expect for a $75, right?). Do you think this is going to cause havoc if I shave the Tusq one down to fit? The comment about the radius of the neck has me pausing now.
you can get tusq pins in white or black really makes no difference therte but shaving down the pin/s dont do it unless you really know what your doing,, most guitars all come with plastic pins which sucks consider how mich we pay for some of our guitars they put in great nuts and saddels on even some cheaper guitars but always plastic pins how ever not all pins work in all guitars so you might want to take some mesurments of one of the good stock pins and see whats out there even in say a bone pin just stay clear of wood pins wood to wood is never a good idea when it comes to pins even the pins and shrink or grow with humidy but tusq and bone are stable as is metal pins
Trying to figure out replacement bridge and nut for Yamaha F325. Replacing the plastic with bone, also wish to change to bone pegs. Any suggestions on correct sizing? Thanks
you need to take all the measurements of your current saddle and nut and then find that in the material you want , and yes bones pegs are great that or buy blanks and make your own youll need a nut file kit as well under 20 bucks on amazon for those
no they are all different so you need to know what you have and order the type you have how ever you will need to shave the height down to the one you have now as they do come taller so you can set the height the way you need it to be
right now Iam down to 7 lefties for now more to get again I used to have 17 lefty's at one time but had to down size a bit and I have 3 rights currently that also was down sized and its staying that way I had more but some had to go . I go thru a lot of gear amps and pedals as well thank goodness I don't collect a lot of keyboards
take the measurement of the length and the thickness hit up amazon or even some of the chinese sites for pre made ones or get a some blanks and make your own
@@Gappymate youll have to reorder and make sure its left handed parts are not switchable they fit sure but the intonation wont work out,, electric guitars about 99% of them this is not a problem but acoustics it has to be left for left and right for right ,, all nuts on all guitars but be order specifice to the guitars original not only left and right handed but also nut and slot spacing is a big deal, now there are exceptions on nuts and thats to order blanks and make them your self ...acoustic saddels can also be ordered as blanks where you shape it your self for left or right handed ..
It's amazing how vitally important the saddle (such a tiny thing) is to the quality of sound your guitar gets to produce. Many thanks for the upload! I made a brand new bone saddle for my instrument today, and the sound is really great.
awesome stuff man
Do not forget the nut !!!! that little bugger is important too !
The old saddle with the chips. I get that with tusq. A tusq nut is ok but I am setting up acoustic guitars I take the tusq saddle out put bone in 😅
Thanks for the video ✌️💜🎸🎶
your welcome and to each their own i always say
You had it backwards, with the thicker groove on the nut. The right handed nut has the thicker groove on the left side.
depends if your left haned or right handed guitar
@@KevinMillard68as a leftie that plays right handed, I spotted your leftie guitars in the first few seconds of your vid😊👍.
Hey, maybe you can help me to answer some not standart question:
- I want to lower my action, but not for all 6 strings. The 6th string (low E) and also maybe the 5th and 4th should stay at same height, but 3rd, 2nd and 1st - should be proportionally lower. Lets say right now I have 6th string 2.5mm and 1st 2.0mm. Goal Is to have 6th string 2.4-2.5mm and 1st string like 1.5-1.6mm. So far I have 2 options in mind:
1) sand the saddle from the bottom with specific angle. Where X1 with be the starting point at the left bottom corner and X2 is the right corner + 1mm. It shoul keep the 6st string at same height, 5th a bit lower, 4th lower than 5th and so on until 1st.
2) Working on the top of the saddle by changing the radius at 1-3 strings. But here comes the question of compensation. Will it affect anything in this case?
overall, could you please advise how to proceed here? I really can not find such information anywhere on the internet.
the saddle has a prefixed angle on it so sanding the the bottom it all stil has to remain Flat or you get problems . your nut is also the same sorta deal how ever you can adjust heights of the strings at the nut end but you have to be carefull either way drop it to low youll get fret buzz , so first adjust the neck so you have .10 tho clearance and can go a bit straighter but never run dead flat neck that can cause problems to. the neck controls some of your string distance for sure but to straight or to bent problems there is a sweet spot where it's perfect. how ever make sure to check all frets for high and low frets that all need to be even in heights as well. other wise problems happen, this is not an easy question to answer best advice take it to a professional tech that is also respected and tell him or her what you want and they can offer you the best solution for your exact guitar...screwing with electric guitars is way less hassel and what you do is easy to reverse acoustics are not very forgiving in this area
@@KevinMillard68 I managed to get the NUT side as low as possible based on all guidances on the internet.
I have a Furch guitar and they did brilliant solution (no, sarcasm...). The Fretboard Radius is 15.75" and original saddle radius was 12". Having such setup makes the 6th and 1st string to be "lowest" and 3th/4th as "heighest".
I replaced the saddle to match the radius of the Fretboard. But by this way - all the strings have same height over the neck. But as you know the thicker the string is - the less space remains to the fretboard. And now this is why I want to apply this changes, which I described above. My 6h string physically lower, than the 1st string. And in my Playingstyle (modern fingerstyle / classic) I need often hit 6th string much harder than the others, if I do to much - I get buzz and its fine, I have to control this power. But the 1st string... It just have to much backup space, which 1) not comforable, as I really need to play a lot of 1-3 strings 2) it wont be used as hard as the 6th string by having like 30% more unneeded backup space (until buzz), maybe even more...
Guitar Tech... I have only one guitar tech in my envinroment and I'm still waiting for it 4 weeks. I just decided to learn everything by myself... its also interesting and it won't be superfluous :)
P.S. Here I did a screenshot about my 5 cent (wrong) thinking
i.imgur.com/2x1l01C.png the bottom will be flat in this case hm.
Fine infos, thank you !
So you have any hints for me how the material of the saddle supports or changes the sound to more "clear" Or more "warm and soft" (plastic or bone)
Kind regards, Markus
plastic is a bit more birghter bone real bone tones things down more
Trying to upgrade a cheapie "guitar in a box" Gibson Maestro after a string pin snapped. I wanted to use Black Tusq but after watching this, I'm realizing the one that was the closest to my original is a compensated saddle compared to the stick straight butcher job that was in it (but what do you expect for a $75, right?). Do you think this is going to cause havoc if I shave the Tusq one down to fit? The comment about the radius of the neck has me pausing now.
you can get tusq pins in white or black really makes no difference therte but shaving down the pin/s dont do it unless you really know what your doing,, most guitars all come with plastic pins which sucks consider how mich we pay for some of our guitars they put in great nuts and saddels on even some cheaper guitars but always plastic pins how ever not all pins work in all guitars so you might want to take some mesurments of one of the good stock pins and see whats out there even in say a bone pin just stay clear of wood pins wood to wood is never a good idea when it comes to pins even the pins and shrink or grow with humidy but tusq and bone are stable as is metal pins
Trying to figure out replacement bridge and nut for Yamaha F325. Replacing the plastic with bone, also wish to change to bone pegs. Any suggestions on correct sizing? Thanks
you need to take all the measurements of your current saddle and nut and then find that in the material you want , and yes bones pegs are great that or buy blanks and make your own youll need a nut file kit as well under 20 bucks on amazon for those
Do all guitar have same sized saddle ?
I have a jumbo acoustic guitar, should I just order any saddle of jumbo guitar
no they are all different so you need to know what you have and order the type you have how ever you will need to shave the height down to the one you have now as they do come taller so you can set the height the way you need it to be
Does the saddle height affect the tuning of the string along the neck?
yes to a certin point it does it also affects many other aspects as well
Any idea abt saddle size of an Acoustic signature guitar ??
all guitars are different reguardless of the model
could i use a saddle if it’s too small?
yoiu need to use the right size and thickness of saddle other wise youll have alot of problems
I haven’t seen so many lefty guitars in the same room! Certainly wouldn’t find them at a retailer!
right now Iam down to 7 lefties for now more to get again I used to have 17 lefty's at one time but had to down size a bit and I have 3 rights currently that also was down sized and its staying that way I had more but some had to go . I go thru a lot of gear amps and pedals as well thank goodness I don't collect a lot of keyboards
Is bone saddle better than urea saddle?
Bone saddles are better then anything else
Viva le Lefties 😊👍
:)
I have a 1970 Harmony H1260 and
I need to replace my saddle. Any suggestions
take the measurement of the length and the thickness hit up amazon or even some of the chinese sites for pre made ones or get a some blanks and make your own
How I can know my size for my saddle because mine is missing
measure the length of the slot and how wide it is so you know how to make a new one fit it has to fit perfectly
Are they all lefties or did you flip the video?
all my guitars are lefties
mine to at the moment all leftys
Dammit. Ordered bone saddle and it turned up. I am left handed and a begginer. Saddle is right handed.
@@Gappymate youll have to reorder and make sure its left handed parts are not switchable they fit sure but the intonation wont work out,, electric guitars about 99% of them this is not a problem but acoustics it has to be left for left and right for right ,, all nuts on all guitars but be order specifice to the guitars original not only left and right handed but also nut and slot spacing is a big deal, now there are exceptions on nuts and thats to order blanks and make them your self ...acoustic saddels can also be ordered as blanks where you shape it your self for left or right handed ..
hb
what the heck is HB supposed to mean