Although the Steel Wheel is obviously heavier than an Aluminium version. The harmonics from the Steel Wheel will be a lot less. Acting as a dampener for the running noises, and Aluminium always has that annoying Riiiiinnnnggg sound when it's running ??? It's not so bad writing programs by hand on a CNC Lathe. Incremental ( U/W ) cutting is a little easier to think about, especially when you're anywhere near the part. The Chips getting stuck between the Part and the Tool Holder can be a Pain ??? One way you can fix this is to bore a hole through the back of the Tool Holder and allow Coolant to run through and over the side of the Tool Holder. I have always used Sandvik even when I worked in other peoples shop. Stupid Expensive is good way to explain Sandvik 😅 Capto is always expensive too, but it is a good way to mount a Tool. I hear your thoughts about High RPM for a Large Lathe Chuck ?? Not only a little scary, but also the inertia is a lot greater on a Large Chuck, simple things like Chuck Jaw pressure start to come into this also. It's good see you back with another video👍
Yes aluminium drive wheels can be "noisy" sometimes. The main concern is that If the drive wheels are too heavy it will cause a voltage spike upon motor deceleration and it will error out my motor inverter. I can program the decel. time longer, but thats more like a bandaid fix. Yes, drilling a small hole through tool is actually a good idea. Initially a thought about some external nozzle but this will also work. Capto is also super rigid. Yesterday I had a small crash when the part camo loose from chuck and hit the tool pretty hard. Didnt even move a bit. No offsets needed. Thanks for suggestions!
Although the Steel Wheel is obviously heavier than an Aluminium version.
The harmonics from the Steel Wheel will be a lot less.
Acting as a dampener for the running noises, and Aluminium always has that annoying Riiiiinnnnggg sound when it's running ???
It's not so bad writing programs by hand on a CNC Lathe.
Incremental ( U/W ) cutting is a little easier to think about, especially when you're anywhere near the part.
The Chips getting stuck between the Part and the Tool Holder can be a Pain ???
One way you can fix this is to bore a hole through the back of the Tool Holder and allow Coolant to run through and over the side of the Tool Holder.
I have always used Sandvik even when I worked in other peoples shop.
Stupid Expensive is good way to explain Sandvik 😅
Capto is always expensive too, but it is a good way to mount a Tool.
I hear your thoughts about High RPM for a Large Lathe Chuck ??
Not only a little scary, but also the inertia is a lot greater on a Large Chuck, simple things like Chuck Jaw pressure start to come into this also.
It's good see you back with another video👍
Yes aluminium drive wheels can be "noisy" sometimes. The main concern is that If the drive wheels are too heavy it will cause a voltage spike upon motor deceleration and it will error out my motor inverter. I can program the decel. time longer, but thats more like a bandaid fix.
Yes, drilling a small hole through tool is actually a good idea. Initially a thought about some external nozzle but this will also work.
Capto is also super rigid. Yesterday I had a small crash when the part camo loose from chuck and hit the tool pretty hard. Didnt even move a bit. No offsets needed.
Thanks for suggestions!
Very nice work. Good looking parts