That locking ring was the tricky part of this job. I had to re-use the old O-ring as the new one was too hard to compress. Then, I filed the leading edge of each of the engagement points so it would catch properly. POS...thanks FORD.
Just so everyone knows. There are two access panels in the back seat. One is for the fuel pump. One is for the fuel level sending unit. DO NOT take the locking ring off unless you have the seals. Know which one is which. It's easy to tell. The fuel pump has a fuel line going to it. The fuel level sending unit does not. And to clarify. The fuel pump is the one on the drivers side. He said left in the video which isn't very specific. To make your videos better. Because left or right could be different depending on what way your looking at it. From front or rear. You NEED to specify passenger side, or drivers side. (US Models) and the opposite for the UK models etc.
Um....no! There is two access holes left side is fuel pump and tank level sending unit. Right side is a transfer pump to transfer fuel to the fuel pump on the left because this vehicle has a saddle tank.
@@luisguzman9248 sounds like a harness problem. Test your plugs those are usually the case. Continuity check through each wire to find the open. And eliminate the plugs if there’s zero continuity.
Great video I just completed this on my 2007 4.6L GT. 85K miles, I can add some tips; The cleaning out the bottom of the tank took the longest time. I had 11 miles to empty and still removed just shy of 2 gallons. The last little bit was adsorbed with an old T-shirt no wring out was required. I had very little grit at the bottom but there was a large spring, 3 small rubber caps, and 2 larger rubber caps on the bottom of the tank. Micro fiber cloth grabs the grit better than a paper towel or even a cotton shirt. The tank has a reservoir built around the pump use compressed air and blow out around the tight sides. Use a flashlight keep wiping and blowing until all particles have been wiped out. I poured a few ounces of Lucas gas treatment in the bottom of the Reservoir to give plenty of lube for the first start up. The locking ring was fairly easy to remove just tap it out don't hit it so hard and bend it. "Center the pump" Next using pliers bend the leading edge of the locking ring's tabs ever so slightly downward so they start to slip under the locking lugs better. Locking the ring back on the new pump was not so easy I used a new rubber O-ring so I needed some downward pressure, a tuna can fit over the plug and fuel nipple so even pressure was able to be applied with my foot. Tap it on make sure all tabs are locking in their lugs don't force or hit so hard or the ring will get mutilated getting it all the way into the locked position. Once mine was well started I used an air-hammer to fully lock it in. If you do not have an air-hammer apply a thin coat of oil to the Locking ring's mating surfaces. Many taps are needed to get it properly locked. Just look at the passenger side to review a fully locked ring. If not locked all the way an air leak is probable. I hope these tips helped let me know if you have anything to add. or what you found inside your tank like maybe Jimmy Hoffa...
Great video I'm pretty sure my fuel pump is going out. My car jerks when I drive up a hill or at night when I have my headlights on. I did put new fuel filter,spark plugs,ignition coils, I went and upgraded my alternator to a higher output one new serpentine belt. Car shops around here they act like you don't know what you are talking about when you tell them what the car is doing and they want you to leave the car with them so they can work on it when they feel like it. Thankfully I can find great help watching videos and I can attempt to fix it myself. I would be looking to install a new pump soon. Thanks i subscribed
Good video! It would be a good idea to place your website's address on the description. It will link directly to the products you're working with. Just a thought. -- *FC*
My 2006 Mustang started missing a beat, and the 'ole code reader said I had a P0191 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor message. This "how to" was one of the many I took in before calling the local parts palace. They ordered me up an Airtex E2469M and I installed it the next day. The Rustang runs great and the fuel quantity is still accurate. Great product and a fine video. Thanks for your help!
Brian from Hebron say Brian, did you also replace the sensor? or filter? I also have an 06, and the dang thing will only sputter after idling 5 minutes in high outdoor heat...I have usually cleared it with my diablo tuner , but it seems lately, like today, it don't care about the tuner,,lol...
Yes they have a fuel pressure regulator that tries to keep the pressure at 39psi. The pump, pumps much higher than that to satisfy the higher fuel demands of highway speeds...
Guys if it’s your first time installing it make sure that the lock ring (green or white ring) is flush with the top of the lid of the pump. Makes it so much more easier
For those who struggle with sealing the pump and locking ring, try using a gooseneck pry bar to hold the lid down while a friend secures the locking ring.
@@TronHardy yeah I only got 2 tabs and got it out of my driveway and into a different parking spot so I am happy because people were coming to cut down trees and if my car wasnt moved they could not cut the trees
@@hithereperson8137I like to use an open soup can or something similar so the can can sit over the harness clip on the pump while you stand on the can to apply downward pressure as you tighten the ring
I know this is an old video but I have a question my 2006 mustang is acting funny when I punch the accelerator or sometimes when I rev to switch gears going down the road it cuts out does this sound like the fuel pump ?
Great and helpful video! I was going into this thinking id need to drop the tank. Another question though, is the fuel level sensor part of the fuel pump or is that system a separate assembly?
@@matttorres5968 It does not leak fuel into the vehicle or outside of the tank if that’s what you’re asking but even after a new fuel pump and new sending unit, my fuel gauge steel gets out of whack if I go down to half a tank or less. I’m sure that transfer hose has a lot to do with it and I have yet to replace it LOL
@@matttorres5968 good luck and let me know where you found your part of you get it. I recall Ford wanting an arm and a leg so I declined. I need to do mine as well.
Airtex fuel pumps used to be well made. No longer. But it is the right pump to buy if you like changing out fuel pumps and boosting profits at Airtex by selling more of them.
dude i’m in the same fucking boat. cut my hands all to shreds from the metal access hole. stupid fuel pump will not seat properly causing the ring to not seat at all
Sorry for the dumb question but I have a 06 mustang gt and I see two holes in the back seat, does it have two fuel pumps or only one? Answer back please
On my 06 GT, when the fuel gauge needle gets to the halfway point, it will suddenly drop all the way as if the tank is empty. The Ford dealership mechanic says this is because fuel isn’t transferring from one side of the “saddle “ to the fuel pump. Will a new fuel pump fix this? Btw, they want over a thousand dollars to replace the pump and filter.
@@matttorres5968 I still haven’t. I swapped out the sending unit and it doesn’t give the low due warning until less gas is in the tank, but it still happens. . May try the fuel pump but that doesn’t make sense because the car runs fine until the halfway point.
Hey so 2 years late to party but i had a similar issue. I replaced the fuel pump, filter, and sending unit but would still get the same results. For me it turned out the gauge cluster had gone bad so i went out my nearest scrap yard and got one fairly priced. However, i had to find someone to reprogram the gauge cluster to match my cars mileage and so it would turn on lol. If you still have this issue give this try.
Sorry I should be clearer on the process. First locate your fuel pump relay fuse. Pull the fuel pump relay fuse and try to start the car 5 times to relieve the fuel pressure. Next, make sure you disconnect your negative battery terminal. Jack the car up so you have access to the underside of the car. the fuel filter is located directly under the drivers side of the car behind a large plastic shield which protects it. (There are many videos on how to remove and replace the filter which is always a good idea to change when replacing a fuel pump.) Remove the shield which is secured using a few 10mm nuts. Undo both fuel line clips on either side of the filter and remove filter. The fuel line on the filter facing the rear of the car is the fuel line that goes directly to the fuel pump. Once the pressure is released in that line by disconnecting the filter it should be safe to remove the fuel line from the pump.
All three engines: 4.0, 4.6 and 5.4 attach on the drivers side of the engine. Each engine has its own way to attach the pressure gauge. Your local parts store may be able to assist in acquiring the needed components.
Lets narrow things down. What engine do you have in your Mustang? 4.0, 4.6 or 5.4. Each engine has its own arrangement. All engines; 4.0, 4.6 and 5.4 will require the use of a Fuel Pressure Test Kit 310-D009 / D95L-7211-A or equivalent tool.
If the vehicle does not have a test port / Schrader valve to attach a gauge you will need an adapter that goes between the feed line and the fuel rail that has the accommodations for the gauge. All engines; 4.0, 4.6 and 5.4 will require the use of a Fuel Pressure Test Kit 310-D009 / D95L-7211-A or equivalent tool.
I have an 05 where no fuel is getting to the drivers side main pump. I cant find any answers as to if the passengers side has some kind of a pump that transfers fuel from the passengers side to the drivers side main pump. also i know there is a sending unit on the passengers side. does this have anything to do with transferring fuel from the passengers side to the drivers side. anybody have any ideas
Im talking about the module,where us located? Im good with cars ,my mustang just has a lil problem,when i put my ac n the car is at idle 750. The fan comes on n the rpms drop to 500 i check for leaks n its good i change the ingnition module n new sparks plugs n wires top best for the car i change maf. Trudle body the car engine its perfect n has alot of power for not been the v8 has alot of torque. As soon as u step on the gas goes. Has 140k miles trasmition runs perfect. Just. When im idleling n the fan comes on the rpm drops. Also when i get to a stop sign n turn the steering weel n hit the gas the car fells like the tracktion control gets engage even when i turn it off ,now if u turn normal n hit the gas normal the problem doesnt happen ,thats berry weir but i drive slow n save anyways so it dont matter but i cant find out why it does that ,also when the car been off for 1 or 2 days ,never starts right away. Only if u crank the car for 4 ,5 seconds. Then starts right away the 2nd try. I know fuel needs to get to the injectors. So 1st try no 2nds try start right like a new car so im thinking something is not working right,has new battery the car runs n acts perfect just has that idle drop when gets a load ,mechanics said was normal oh n the steering weel shake when it happends the car rattle. Then rpms goes to 750 it happend really fast just imagine in ur head look Car is idleling good the fan comes on rpm drops to 500 n goes back to 750 in 1 second n thats not normal The car should drop rpms from 750 to 745 just a tinny lil bit that its not noticeble thats normal So i was thinking the pump or the fuel regulator or module its not working right,the car should automatic know that a load its coming on the engine n either pump more gas or presure to the injectors or something ,i change amf ,n wasnt the problem i change throdle body n wast the proble ingnition wasnt the problem leak on vacum not at all its perfect ,ahhhh idk dude alternator new one works perfect been check battery new. No oil leak nothing car its perfect exept that issue n its driving me crazy ,i fire my mechanic because my e brake snap. So i call a tow truck. I send the car to him ,n send a list of what i wanted done wish was fix e brake main thing, put a new ingnition coil cables n sparks plugs n a a pludge silinoid was bad ,the car use to be hard to put gas when was empty i started pumping n the gas pump with shut like if the car was full n wasnt even 3/4 tank ,so dude took 2 month with my car n forgot to fix the e brake my girl wish dont know about cars pick it up n drove home with the e brake on for more than 40 miles lol n destroid my brake cylinder dude charge me 700$ lol i could of done the job but was laysy. Lol i love working on cars idk what i was thinking he said he was sorry lol dude i send him a list from 1 to 6 with what i wanted done lol how can u skip number 1 step lol o well so that was a waist of $ easy shit took him 2 months lol. How long can u take to chane 6 spark plugs 6 wires n the ingition coil wish has 2 scruws. Lol.
I have an 2005 4.0 I have changed the ECM, fuel rail pressure sensor, fuel pump module cam and crank speed sensors, but it starts for a few seconds and shuts off then it just cranks and cranks and cylinders flood with fuel after I let it sit awhile it will do the same thing. Only code it had was for the second cooling fan circuit fault. It was running when it shut off and hasn’t worked sense then. Any ideas?
javier valdez Flash the ECM and reprogram the cam/crank sensors, it could also be the fuel pump driver module that is located in the spare tire compartment
That locking ring was the tricky part of this job. I had to re-use the old O-ring as the new one was too hard to compress. Then, I filed the leading edge of each of the engagement points so it would catch properly. POS...thanks FORD.
They can install the fuel pump in a good location , yet no dipstick to check transmition fluid level
😭
@Gravity Racer GT yeah I mean we are mustang owners
@Gravity Racer GT *j**jj*jj*jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj*j*jjjjjjjjjjjjj*jjj*j*jjjjjj*j**jjjj*jjjjj*jj**j*jjjjjjj*jjj**jj*jjjj*jjj*jjjjjjjjjj*jjjjjjj*jjj*jj*j*jjjjjjjjjj*jj*jj**j*jj*jjjjjjjjjjjjjjj***jj*jjj*jjjj*jjjjjj*jjjj*jjjjj*jjj**jjjjj**jj*jjjj****jjjjjjjjjj*jjjjjjj*jjjjjj*jjjjjjjjjj*jjjj*jjjjjj*jj**j**j*j*jjjj*jj*j****jj*jjjjjjjj*jjjj*j*j**jjjjjjjjjj*jj*jjjjjjjjjj*jjjjjjj**jjjjjjjjjj*j*jjjjjjjjjj**j*jjjjjj**jjjjjjjjjj**jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj*jjjjjjjjjjj*jjjjjjjjj*jjjjjjj*jjjjjjjjjjjjjj*j*jjjj*jjjjjj*jjjjjjjjjj*jjjjjjjj*jjjjjjjjjj*jjjjjj*jjj*jjjj*jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj*jjj*jjjjjjjjj*jj*jj*j*jj**jjjjjjjj*jjjjjjj*jjjjjjj*jjjj*jjjj*
Blessed are those engineers who made this so easily accessible. Dropping a fuel tank is NOT fun.
Agreed!
Camaro engineers are imbeciles then lol. Cuz I have to drop the tank.
Most Japanese and German cars have had fuel pump access panels through back seat or trunks since the early 90s
Just so everyone knows. There are two access panels in the back seat. One is for the fuel pump. One is for the fuel level sending unit. DO NOT take the locking ring off unless you have the seals. Know which one is which. It's easy to tell. The fuel pump has a fuel line going to it. The fuel level sending unit does not. And to clarify. The fuel pump is the one on the drivers side. He said left in the video which isn't very specific.
To make your videos better. Because left or right could be different depending on what way your looking at it. From front or rear. You NEED to specify passenger side, or drivers side. (US Models) and the opposite for the UK models etc.
Lol do you even work on cars driver side i left passenger side is right you always refer to everything as if you were sitting in the driver seat
Um....no! There is two access holes left side is fuel pump and tank level sending unit. Right side is a transfer pump to transfer fuel to the fuel pump on the left because this vehicle has a saddle tank.
Thanks, I was looking for what the unit on the passenger side is for. Yes it is better to use driver/passenger rather than left/right...
Hey I'm trying to figure out why my sending unit side , does not have power for a 2010 v6 mustang,
@@luisguzman9248 sounds like a harness problem. Test your plugs those are usually the case. Continuity check through each wire to find the open. And eliminate the plugs if there’s zero continuity.
Great video I just completed this on my 2007 4.6L GT. 85K miles, I can add some tips;
The cleaning out the bottom of the tank took the longest time. I had 11 miles to empty and still removed just shy of 2 gallons. The last little bit was adsorbed with an old T-shirt no wring out was required. I had very little grit at the bottom but there was a large spring, 3 small rubber caps, and 2 larger rubber caps on the bottom of the tank. Micro fiber cloth grabs the grit better than a paper towel or even a cotton shirt. The tank has a reservoir built around the pump use compressed air and blow out around the tight sides. Use a flashlight keep wiping and blowing until all particles have been wiped out. I poured a few ounces of Lucas gas treatment in the bottom of the Reservoir to give plenty of lube for the first start up.
The locking ring was fairly easy to remove just tap it out don't hit it so hard and bend it. "Center the pump" Next using pliers bend the leading edge of the locking ring's tabs ever so slightly downward so they start to slip under the locking lugs better. Locking the ring back on the new pump was not so easy I used a new rubber O-ring so I needed some downward pressure, a tuna can fit over the plug and fuel nipple so even pressure was able to be applied with my foot. Tap it on make sure all tabs are locking in their lugs don't force or hit so hard or the ring will get mutilated getting it all the way into the locked position. Once mine was well started I used an air-hammer to fully lock it in. If you do not have an air-hammer apply a thin coat of oil to the Locking ring's mating surfaces. Many taps are needed to get it properly locked. Just look at the passenger side to review a fully locked ring. If not locked all the way an air leak is probable.
I hope these tips helped let me know if you have anything to add. or what you found inside your tank like maybe Jimmy Hoffa...
Thanks for your input on your experience with this job.
Great video I'm pretty sure my fuel pump is going out. My car jerks when I drive up a hill or at night when I have my headlights on. I did put new fuel filter,spark plugs,ignition coils, I went and upgraded my alternator to a higher output one new serpentine belt. Car shops around here they act like you don't know what you are talking about when you tell them what the car is doing and they want you to leave the car with them so they can work on it when they feel like it. Thankfully I can find great help watching videos and I can attempt to fix it myself. I would be looking to install a new pump soon. Thanks i subscribed
Good video! It would be a good idea to place your website's address on the description. It will link directly to the products you're working with. Just a thought. -- *FC*
My 2006 Mustang started missing a beat, and the 'ole code reader said I had a P0191 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor message. This "how to" was one of the many I took in before calling the local parts palace. They ordered me up an Airtex E2469M and I installed it the next day. The Rustang runs great and the fuel quantity is still accurate. Great product and a fine video. Thanks for your help!
Brian from Hebron say Brian, did you also replace the sensor? or filter? I also have an 06, and the dang thing will only sputter after idling 5 minutes in high outdoor heat...I have usually cleared it with my diablo tuner , but it seems lately, like today, it don't care about the tuner,,lol...
+Donald Malson does the 06 v6 has a fuel presure regulator?
does the v6 06 has a fuel presure regulator?
Yes they have a fuel pressure regulator that tries to keep the pressure at 39psi. The pump, pumps much higher than that to satisfy the higher fuel demands of highway speeds...
Thank you I had no idea about the tabs on the underside that was a big help.
Guys if it’s your first time installing it make sure that the lock ring (green or white ring) is flush with the top of the lid of the pump. Makes it so much more easier
Thanks so much. Shop wanted to charge me $500. This made it easy!
For those who struggle with sealing the pump and locking ring, try using a gooseneck pry bar to hold the lid down while a friend secures the locking ring.
I don't have friends or a prybar
@@hithereperson8137 I pray you get what you need
@@TronHardy yeah I only got 2 tabs and got it out of my driveway and into a different parking spot so I am happy because people were coming to cut down trees and if my car wasnt moved they could not cut the trees
@@hithereperson8137I like to use an open soup can or something similar so the can can sit over the harness clip on the pump while you stand on the can to apply downward pressure as you tighten the ring
I know this is an old video but I have a question my 2006 mustang is acting funny when I punch the accelerator or sometimes when I rev to switch gears going down the road it cuts out does this sound like the fuel pump ?
Great and helpful video! I was going into this thinking id need to drop the tank. Another question though, is the fuel level sensor part of the fuel pump or is that system a separate assembly?
Extremely helpful, just subscribe. Thanks
Where did you connect that pressure gauge? I read that 05-09 Mustangs don’t have a shraeder valve and I didn’t see one on mine either
I was wondering the same thing
2005 has a lifter pump or secondary pump trying g to find out how to get to and fix that one any information would be awesome
Thanks for the great video. I do have a question about that crossover hose. Mine is torn. Any idea where to get a new one?
Looking up a 2009 Mustang 4.7 the line is available from Ford.
Does it leak fuel ?
@@matttorres5968 It does not leak fuel into the vehicle or outside of the tank if that’s what you’re asking but even after a new fuel pump and new sending unit, my fuel gauge steel gets out of whack if I go down to half a tank or less. I’m sure that transfer hose has a lot to do with it and I have yet to replace it LOL
@@ChrisHodge1978 me too im going to fix it this weekend
@@matttorres5968 good luck and let me know where you found your part of you get it. I recall Ford wanting an arm and a leg so I declined. I need to do mine as well.
Airtex fuel pumps used to be well made. No longer. But it is the right pump to buy if you like changing out fuel pumps and boosting profits at Airtex by selling more of them.
Are both fuel pumps supposed to hum? And why only change 1 on the left? The one I'm working on does not have power on the right side pump
I have tried for hours to get the metal ring back on but i cant.
dude i’m in the same fucking boat. cut my hands all to shreds from the metal access hole. stupid fuel pump will not seat properly causing the ring to not seat at all
@@Jonasbullins I hired a mobile mechanic and he fixed it up. You shouldnt be able to see the gasket at all if its seated properly.
Same boat, this thing is driving me crazy
Just Push down all the way and twist, worked for me.
Thank you! The video made it easy!
Good to hear we helped make your life a little easier!
Ive been at this for 2 days now, cant get this ring on properly
Figure it out please tell me 😅
@@uncoma7316 got it lol
Why would the inside of the tank be dirty?
What size is the fuel hat quick connector/ hose mine just cracked
Helpful thanks!
Sorry for the dumb question but I have a 06 mustang gt and I see two holes in the back seat, does it have two fuel pumps or only one? Answer back please
Same body style, the fuel pump should have the electrical connecter and the fuel line, much like this one, the other side only has a connector
Drivers side
Guys E2469M is the unit you should be getting for 05-09 mustang's I bought a E2467M and it was too tall, and didn't lock into place.
Why do you clean the tank is that a requirement
Is this the same process for an 05 mustang?
On my 06 GT, when the fuel gauge needle gets to the halfway point, it will suddenly drop all the way as if the tank is empty. The Ford dealership mechanic says this is because fuel isn’t transferring from one side of the “saddle “ to the fuel pump.
Will a new fuel pump fix this?
Btw, they want over a thousand dollars to replace the pump and filter.
How did you fix it ? And how much did they charge i have this same problem
@@matttorres5968 I still haven’t. I swapped out the sending unit and it doesn’t give the low due warning until less gas is in the tank, but it still happens. . May try the fuel pump but that doesn’t make sense because the car runs fine until the halfway point.
@@gregraines1599 mines have the same problem
Hey so 2 years late to party but i had a similar issue. I replaced the fuel pump, filter, and sending unit but would still get the same results. For me it turned out the gauge cluster had gone bad so i went out my nearest scrap yard and got one fairly priced. However, i had to find someone to reprogram the gauge cluster to match my cars mileage and so it would turn on lol. If you still have this issue give this try.
@@matttorres5968 .
Is it absolutely necessary to remove all gasoline from the tank before installing the new pump?
Shinning Armadillo No, I did it multiple times with a near full tank and half a tank. Make sure you are in a well ventilated area.
I replaced the fuel pump still not working it has power and ground the conector what can be
nice im hoping its all the same for my 06
This pump applies to 2006-2009 Mustangs with the 4.0 v6 and the 4.6 v8.
Is the fuel pump in the same place in an 05 mustang?
Ces possible d'avoir un liens pour commander c'est une pompe gros débit ?
is this doable without the pressure gauge?
Just disconnect the Fuel filter line leading to the the gas tank to relieve the fuel line pressure so you don't make a mess in the car.
Sorry I should be clearer on the process. First locate your fuel pump relay fuse. Pull the fuel pump relay fuse and try to start the car 5 times to relieve the fuel pressure. Next, make sure you disconnect your negative battery terminal. Jack the car up so you have access to the underside of the car. the fuel filter is located directly under the drivers side of the car behind a large plastic shield which protects it. (There are many videos on how to remove and replace the filter which is always a good idea to change when replacing a fuel pump.) Remove the shield which is secured using a few 10mm nuts. Undo both fuel line clips on either side of the filter and remove filter. The fuel line on the filter facing the rear of the car is the fuel line that goes directly to the fuel pump. Once the pressure is released in that line by disconnecting the filter it should be safe to remove the fuel line from the pump.
where do you connect the gauge? i cant find the hose or whatever to test it.
All three engines: 4.0, 4.6 and 5.4 attach on the drivers side of the engine. Each engine has its own way to attach the pressure gauge. Your local parts store may be able to assist in acquiring the needed components.
my vehicle is not starting so is there a link i go to that will show me the location of the shrader valve?
Lets narrow things down. What engine do you have in your Mustang? 4.0, 4.6 or 5.4. Each engine has its own arrangement.
All engines; 4.0, 4.6 and 5.4 will require the use of a Fuel Pressure Test Kit 310-D009 / D95L-7211-A or equivalent tool.
If the vehicle does not have a test port / Schrader valve to attach a gauge you will need an adapter that goes between the feed line and the fuel rail that has the accommodations for the gauge. All engines; 4.0, 4.6 and 5.4 will require the use of a Fuel Pressure Test Kit 310-D009 / D95L-7211-A or equivalent tool.
Any ideas on how to open the 2012 mustang locking ring? It looks different.
Did uber figure it out , my gauge is not working so I'll probably have to replace the sending unit
is this the same for 05 mustang?
I have an 05 where no fuel is getting to the drivers side main pump. I cant find any answers as to if the passengers side has some kind of a pump that transfers fuel from the passengers side to the drivers side main pump. also i know there is a sending unit on the passengers side. does this have anything to do with transferring fuel from the passengers side to the drivers side. anybody have any ideas
Did you fix it i have the same issue
Does this video applies to the 2005 model?
while the pumps are slightly different this procedure will be very similar to your 2005
Will this work for a 2010?
A 2010 ford Mustang uses fuel pump E2555M. The repair will be similar in they both have access through the floor.
@@AirtexFuelPumps so I am guessing it's the same procedure for a 2012 ? My gauge is not working so I have to change it
How do you get the fuel pump to lock
Any update?
How do you remove the crossover line? It’s not budging.
Did you remove it how did you do it ?
@@matttorres5968 I can’t remember for sure. I think I pushed the clip in.
How did you fix it ?
Did you fix the Line ? Was the gas tank leaking ?
@@matttorres5968 mine didn’t leak
how do you know when u have a bad fuel pump?
Car will sputter due to low fuel pressure. No fuel pressure will cause the engine to die and not restart.
does this work with 2005?
The 2005 is similar in how the job is done.
does a mustang v6 2006 has a fuel presure regulator? any one?
+Airtex Pumps thank u ,now where is it at n can it go bad ?
Im talking about the module,where us located? Im good with cars ,my mustang just has a lil problem,when i put my ac n the car is at idle 750. The fan comes on n the rpms drop to 500 i check for leaks n its good i change the ingnition module n new sparks plugs n wires top best for the car i change maf. Trudle body the car engine its perfect n has alot of power for not been the v8 has alot of torque. As soon as u step on the gas goes. Has 140k miles trasmition runs perfect. Just. When im idleling n the fan comes on the rpm drops. Also when i get to a stop sign n turn the steering weel n hit the gas the car fells like the tracktion control gets engage even when i turn it off ,now if u turn normal n hit the gas normal the problem doesnt happen ,thats berry weir but i drive slow n save anyways so it dont matter but i cant find out why it does that ,also when the car been off for 1 or 2 days ,never starts right away. Only if u crank the car for 4 ,5 seconds. Then starts right away the 2nd try. I know fuel needs to get to the injectors. So 1st try no 2nds try start right like a new car so im thinking something is not working right,has new battery the car runs n acts perfect just has that idle drop when gets a load ,mechanics said was normal oh n the steering weel shake when it happends the car rattle. Then rpms goes to 750 it happend really fast just imagine in ur head look
Car is idleling good the fan comes on rpm drops to 500 n goes back to 750 in 1 second n thats not normal
The car should drop rpms from 750 to 745 just a tinny lil bit that its not noticeble thats normal
So i was thinking the pump or the fuel regulator or module its not working right,the car should automatic know that a load its coming on the engine n either pump more gas or presure to the injectors or something ,i change amf ,n wasnt the problem i change throdle body n wast the proble ingnition wasnt the problem leak on vacum not at all its perfect ,ahhhh idk dude alternator new one works perfect been check battery new. No oil leak nothing car its perfect exept that issue n its driving me crazy ,i fire my mechanic because my e brake snap. So i call a tow truck. I send the car to him ,n send a list of what i wanted done wish was fix e brake main thing, put a new ingnition coil cables n sparks plugs n a a pludge silinoid was bad ,the car use to be hard to put gas when was empty i started pumping n the gas pump with shut like if the car was full n wasnt even 3/4 tank ,so dude took 2 month with my car n forgot to fix the e brake my girl wish dont know about cars pick it up n drove home with the e brake on for more than 40 miles lol n destroid my brake cylinder dude charge me 700$ lol i could of done the job but was laysy. Lol i love working on cars idk what i was thinking he said he was sorry lol dude i send him a list from 1 to 6 with what i wanted done lol how can u skip number 1 step lol o well so that was a waist of $ easy shit took him 2 months lol. How long can u take to chane 6 spark plugs 6 wires n the ingition coil wish has 2 scruws. Lol.
Doent have any codes or a check engine light on ,
I have an 2005 4.0 I have changed the ECM, fuel rail pressure sensor, fuel pump module cam and crank speed sensors, but it starts for a few seconds and shuts off then it just cranks and cranks and cylinders flood with fuel after I let it sit awhile it will do the same thing. Only code it had was for the second cooling fan circuit fault. It was running when it shut off and hasn’t worked sense then. Any ideas?
javier valdez
Flash the ECM and reprogram the cam/crank sensors, it could also be the fuel pump driver module that is located in the spare tire compartment