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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video, I replaced the spark plug plugs and spark plug wires on a Subaru Forester with the 2.5L naturally-aspirated (non-turbo) engine. I recommend that the spark plugs be replaced at 50k mile intervals. This vehicle developed a misfire due to running the spark plugs for nearly 115k miles. Unfortunately, the spark plug wire boot for cylinder #1 was damaged due to spark energy burning a hole through it, so I went ahead and replaced the entire set of spark plug wires.
This process should be similar on 2009-2013 Foresters with the naturally-aspirated 2.5L engine. Also other Subaru models with the 2.5L.
Time spent: About 30 minutes
Spark plugs used: NGK FR5AP-11 (5463) a.co/8w3GkzC
Spark plug wire set used: NGK 55004 RC-FX101 a.co/8ufK3lt
Spark plug gap: .043"
Spark plug torque: 20 ft/lbs (27Nm)
Spark plug gap tool used: Snap-On FBP-1 a.co/3qTdM7j
Antiseize: a.co/95pMDcX
Dielectric grease: a.co/9G5NbQj
Other tools used:
3/8" drive flex head ratchet: Snap-On FLF80A store.snapon.c...
5/8" spark plug socket: a.co/73WBcDV
3/8" drive torque wrench w/ flex head: a.co/5DgYaPa
3/8" drive extension 3" and 6". Use these, the SK ones I used in the video were worn out: a.co/bWkDEN9
3/8" drive universal: a.co/8rzguVI
Flat head screwdriver: a.co/2DkXnTV
This super accurate video led us through every step, wiith the correct choice of tools and extensions to use. you even mentioned the gap settings, as well as the proper tightining torque. You covered every last detail. this made the entire job, easy, as well as very predictable. It is a well done, highly informative video. much appreciated !
I'm glad the video helped you out! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!
I have saved countless hours of valuable time by watching this channel. Previewing allows me to have ALL of the necessary tools on hand before I start.
Refreshing my memory is only a click away.....10++++
Thank you for simple instructions without family history of you, your dog and cat and where you once worked etc. A man needing information is lucky to find your videos..
Thanks for sharing this video, it was very useful, you just saved me a lot of money, the dealer was charging me $500 for this job and I said no thanks. I bought the wires and spark plugs and I did it in about 1 hour and 20 minutes. And now my car is running great, I just removed the battery to make it easier.
takeapiss12 I'm glad the video helped you do the job yourself and save some money! Battery removal makes access easier but as you can see in the video, not completely necessary. Thanks so much for taking the time to leave a comment. I really appreciate it!
Great work! You must be a professional mechanic. Use professional tools, give the detail of the process and explanation. Thank you for posting this video. Every guy want DIY their Subaru Forester spark plugs replacement must watch this.
Thank you. The whole video thing is relatively new to me, but I'm getting better. I know quite a few people who think the Subaru engine compartment is impossibly tight and won't even do a spark plug change as a DIY project. While it is true that these cars aren't the easiest for spark plug changes, they are far from the worst - especially if you have the right tools. I've been wrenching professionally since '98 (and have been around it all my life) and feel that it's time to share some of my knowledge, especially with jobs that an inclined DIY-er can do.
Fang Wang that's why I'm here! Yay!
@@AKJeeper i really like your video , I just wanna change my spark plugs my question for you the plugs 2 and 4 doesn't matter to putting anywhere
You are the man! Your video was perfect to watch before changing the plugs and coils in my daughter's 2009 Forester. Buying the swivel thing for my ratchet made it an easy job. I used needle nose pliers to get the spark plug socket out of the hole once I installed each new plug. Thanks!
Very good video; thanks for posting. A few comments based on my own experience doing this job: (1) I too had always been taught to use a little anti-seize on the plugs' threads, but NGK themselves say not to use it -- modern long-life plugs (at least NGK's) have a coating that makes it unnecessary, and further it can cause over-torquing. Which brings me to (2), the torque spec for these engines is 15 ft-lbs. You're probably not going to hurt anything at 20 but 15 is the spec. Finally, (3) removing the front portion of the box that holds the air filter element is easy and requires the removal only two 10mm bolts. It's worth doing to improve access to cylinder 1 and also it gives you the opportunity to empty the gravity reservoir of any crap that's fallen in there over the years. Anyway again thanks for the video.
Thank you so much. I am not a mechanic by any means but your video completely solved my problem! I was having a rough start on my 08 Impreza 2.5i (107k miles), along with low idle, shaking and vibration while stopped, and almost complete loss in acceleration. My check engine light came on with code P0303 and P0304. I pulled out and replaced all four spark plugs and my car is running great now! Thank you.
dude you're a freaking hero. i'm not exactly mechanically savvy but my girlfriend's subie is acting up & we're broke so here we are. you've made this job actually approachable and i want you to know how much i appreciate that
That’s what I’m all about - helping others save money! This job isn’t too bad with the right tools. Thanks so much for leaving a positive comment. Best wishes to you!
Only ever helped change spark plugs once on a Tacoma I used to own, and after watching this video I feel more confident to do it myself.
Gonna get more tools tomorrow and then take a crack at it. Thank you for the clear and concise guide!
Edit: Took me longer than I wanted it to, but got it done, and didn't have to f'nangle with it once it was all together. Drives smoother now!
Great to hear!
Just did this fix & WOW! it worked. Parts/tools cost me less than 125$ from O'reilly. I will add that I didn't need a torque wrench to get my rig back up and running. After a little more digging I found that between 15-20 foot pounds of torque is about as tight as a person could use one of those swivel ratchets.
While my spark plugs might not be to the exact tightness, they are definitely in there. My forester is idolling better and there's no more weird smelling exhaust. When the engine went out there was some extremely weird smelling exhaust that was stunk like oil and gasoline volatilizing.
I also want to note that each of the spark plug wires that I bought have their own female end counterparts in the Subaru engine.
THANK YOU!
Glad the video helped you! I'm pretty adamant about using a torque wrench on spark plugs for these videos because some less-experienced people may either overtorque (or undertorque - they feel the resistance of the crush washer and stop, when they really should keep going until the washer crushes completely and resistance starts ramping up). You're right though, 15-20 ft/lbs is roughly what a person will manage with a 3/8 drive ratchet if they aren't reefing on it. Thanks for commenting!
I’m going to enthusiastically agree with almost everyone else here that this video is top-notch. Very clear instructions with helpful and relatively skillful videography. I appreciate the tool and parts list as well as the time and effort you put into this video. Have done this task many times on many vehicles but as always, I learned something new. Thanks, and great job!
Hey man. Thanks so much for this video. I am a novice mechanic and after watching your step-by-step I felt very comfortable getting under the hood and replacing my spark plugs.
Excellent presentation that saved my bacon, only things I did slightly differently was to completely remove the air filter box and battery which made access a lot better and accounted for less skinned knuckles. Plugs were absolutely shagged with wasted electrodes and gaps of 1mm plus...cant believe it was even running!
This video just saved me a ton of time and money on my '09 Legacy. Thank you! And you're not kidding about the flex-head ratchet....
Glad this video was helpful to you! The flex-head ratchet is (IMO) one of the most important tools any mechanic or DIY'er can add to their tool collection. The roto-head ratchet is a close 2nd place in my book, tied with flex head ratcheting wrenches (like what Gearwrench offers). I virtually never use fixed-head ratchets, even on my other jobs like wind turbine maintenance.
The best video out there for changing the spark plugs on a Subaru (probably on most cars). I will be doing a spark plug and wires change on my 09 Forester this weekend and thanks to you every step of the way is crystal clear! Will update my comment after doing the change! :)
Brilliant and complete procedure chock full of helpful hints. I was told by my mechanic that anti-seize is not necessary with NGK plugs. I agree about the removal of the battery to make the job on the driver's side replacement of cylinders 2 and 4 easier. I think that the people who work on these cars in Japan must have smaller hands than I do....Oh yeah, thanks for the pointers in your information and especially the hint about the dielectric grease. This is one of the most helpful TH-cam videos on Subaru maintenance I have come across.
You are correct, if the spark plug is the shiny metal it doesn't need the anti seize, in fact its the shiny color because its part of the anti corrosive properties,
Adding anti seize will actually get you false torque numbers as well. If it was dry, the way it was intended to be installed, you can go till it seats and a 1/4 turn. if its lubricated it will easily feel like its not seated yet n then when you start cranking on it, your already a full turn further than youd already without it.
If its shiny its not meant to have anything on, also the washer is designed to make contact with motor and also assist in releasing because of the material its made out of when removing. These spark plug people have really thought of everything.
If you have some older vehicle and its like a dark color plug, those plugs you can safely use anti seize on.
I dont wanna say its 100 percent cut and dry, theres instances with each i'm sure you would and wouldn't you know. just know if you do, that plug will go further than if you did not that is for sure.
Not only is the video great, but all the information has been typed in above. Thank-you.
Thank you for being so generous with your wisdom! Now I just need to track down those specialty tools
Great video! Parts cost me about $60, dealer wanted over $250 to replace. Took me about 2 hours, but that included taking the battery out to get better access to cylinder #4 as well as taking a test drive. I especially liked the tip about electrical tape to hold the universal on to the extension. The old Forester runs soooo much better!
Greg Matoka Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment! I'm glad the video helped you and that you were able to get the job done yourself and save some money.
Been looking for this video for a while I have a 11 Forester thar I've been needing to change the coil packs and the plugs/wires. All the videos I've watched were just for the coil packs alone.
Thank you ! I was able to do my 2010
Today because of this video. As you and others have stated removing the battery made it easier on the drivers side. The suggestion for the flex head ratchet was spot on.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Great vid. Like the anti seize tip but remember, the anti seize on the plug thread is going to lower the torque value. Over tightening the plug on an aluminum block could potentially strip it out. Might spin the plug in until it stops turning then go another quarter turn and that’s it. Thank you Charles Cranford!
I agree, i felt like he was cranking them on there, idk.
This is the most informative DIY I've seen. Thank you!
Thanks for stopping by and leaving me a positive comment. I really appreciate it!
The electrical tape recommendation was a lifesaver ❤️
It was a trick an old-timer taught me many moons ago. :)
Thanks for the great tips. I will add that I was able to tilt the battery 90 degrees with the cables still attached making for much easier access to cylinders 2 and 4.
Thank you! Just had my spark plugs and wires replaced - I was able to see (after the work) where they are in my engine bay!
Absolutely heroic, what you've done here. Thank you! Your video makes sense even to a car noob, so I really appreciate it.
Thank you so much for this video! It was so helpful, very easy to follow, and still applied to my ‘07 Forester.
Thank you for sharing this great video. It made my spark plugs and wires change an easier job.
Thank you it’s a very Toral and accurate video I ever seen and other other results. I was able to do it myself and save myself lots of money thank you my brother.
watching in 2022. thank you for this. i began this project as i watched the video. no torque wrench, guess im gonna wing it haha wish me luck!
Good luck. People have been changing spark plugs for a long time without a torque wrench. Just go until it is “snug”. You’ll feel it start to get tight and then get to a point where the resistance increases all of a sudden. Do not torque beyond that point!
Thanks man, extremely helpful.
My 09's rough idling has been fixed.
My friend thanks a lot for the video it helped me big time. I just changed mine. Only thing that sucks now is that I have to go figure out how to make the check engine light to go away.
Oliver Durrant just pull out the fuse for your dash lights...
Very well done and extremely instructional.
Great video, made this project a breeze. Thank you.
Excellent instruction
Great video man, thank you! really appreciate the effort you put in making it. I have 09 Impreza and find it really fun to work on, I will be back for anymore vids you make! Thanks!
Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment, I really appreciate it.
Amazingly helpful video. So detailed thanks great job
Thanks for an excellent explanation and video. You saved the day!
Thank you for taking the time to do this video, very helpful....
Glad this video was helpful to you. Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment!
If your idle is weird after doing this, the procedure is simple but time consuming.
*****do this outside in a well ventilated area*****
1}make sure your radio is off, headlights off, ac heat off, anything that consume power is off that is step one. very important as you car is relearning the idle you do not want anything interfering with that.
2)unplug neg terminal for 30 minutes min
3)turn key to pos 1 just before starting when the lights and all that come on the dash, that position. then wait min of 15 to 20 seconds
4)start the vehicle and let it idle for 15 to 20 min and do not touch the gas even if it seems like its going to die, dont touch anything and ensure everything is off.
5)turn vehicle off and wait 15 seconds.
6)turn to position 1 again and wait 10 to 15 seconds
7)start vehicle and let run again for 10 min and then turn off
8)wait 13 seconds turn to position 1 for 15 seconds and then turn on and go for a road test, your car should run like new again.
Idky i put 13 seconds for step 8 like 15 seconds is what i meant.
this really is how you relearn the idle on a Subaru though just so you know.
Thank you!! This video totally helped me :) Thanks for being so detailed.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Thanks
Good tutorial thank you
Did this Subaru have a misfire/rough idle before you changed the plugs and wires? And when you changed both did that remedy the misfire/rough idle?
Think the gap is the least of that vehicals problems judging by the state of the engine bay
Thanks. I really appreciate your help 😊👍
Happy to help!
Excellent video!, Thanks for sharing!
Could this be a reason why my Forester won't start during the rain? It'll crank but won't turn over. But on a regular day it'll start up fine just the days it rains it won't start up.
The gap on that plug was so huge that it was incredible that the chamber was firing at all!! Maybe it wasn't......
Me gusto tu español amigo.”MUY IMPORTANTE”
Great video. Thank you!
Can this still be done without a torque wrench
Would it matter if the driver side wire leading into the coil pack were swapped and didnt mirror the passenger side?
Great video and I appreciate how well you explained things. One quick problem I have run into is that, after applying the diaelectric grease to the wires, the terminals attaching to the ignition coil keep slipping off and I can't get a firm click. It might be that it is currently 0 degrees in the garage and the metal is shrunken a bit? Not sure but would love your advice.
Super helpful vid I was able to do the same to my 09 yesterday. Only one hang up is that it’s starting a little off just a chug chug before the engine turns over, other than that it’s running like a top! Any suggestions? Thanks!
Awesome video! Does the 2009 Subaru Forester have ignition coil packs or just igintion coils?
Also Very important to realize that antiseize effects the friction and when you torque the plugs they get much tighter than you originally planned. Good idea or bad idea? Can't ever make my mind up. Torque them too tight it loosely and could end up with a compression leak or stripped head which either could mean thousands in damage. No anti seize and there is a small possibility you might somehow get galvanic corrosion sticking the plugs into the hole since newer fuel injected cars very rarely need new plugs (maybe after 80 to 120k miles). So which way is best? Anyone ever had anti seize cause excessive over tightening yet?
Anti-seize (or anything on the threads, really) can change the torque applied to a fastener or spark plug. With that said, as long as you don't go crazy with how much you put on the threads - it won't be a significant enough of a difference, at least not to the point where you're damaging the head from overtightening, or having the spark plug fly out (and subsequently ruining the head) from not being tight enough. For what it's worth - I've been wrenching professionally for just over 20 years and have not had any issues with any plugs I've installed using anti-seize. In my area we battle corrosion all the time, so I'm a believer in using anti-seize on spark plug threads. It's really one of those things that is a preference...much like asking mechanics what brand of motor oil they like to use.
@@AKJeeper I always thought it's a good idea but always wandered what type of % I should adjust the torque. My friend that repairs and sells used vehicles had one truck that had a plug corroded in enough the heads threads came out with the plug. That wasn't good at all as then he had to buy a new set of heads. I can't remember now which brand and model it was but I remember he researched it and was a common issue with that specific truck. I'm kind of surprised that if they make aluminum heads then why not aluminum threads on plugs for aluminum heads to prevent galvanic corrosion and expand and contract at the same rate when heated? Seems like it would make sense as for the galvanic corrosion to take place it takes two dissimilar metals in an electric solution so basically a little water gets in there sits from Condensation or whatever and that's all it takes to weld them in place after a while. I also kind of Wondered how they don't get really loose since aluminum expands faster than steel every time the motor heats up.
@@naturestrail2296 Almost willing to bet it was a Ford pickup. Some engines (modular 2V) were notorious for only having a few threads engage the spark plug, along with a very small factory torque spec (like 12ft/lbs). Factory-fitted spark plugs would fly out on their own! I've had the best luck increasing torque to 20-25ft/lbs on replacement spark plugs (if you get to them before they fly out and cause damage). On 3V engines, most had a seriously stupid 2pc spark plug design, where part of the spark plug could seize and subsequently break in the block. In either case, whether it be the threads getting ruined by the spark plug flying out or 2pc spark plugs seizing/breaking, there are fixes which don't require replacement of the cylinder head. As for steel/aluminum expansion rates - a spark plug tightened to the proper spec will not get loose with heating/cooling cycles, but can corrode from having dissimilar metals touching (which is why I use the antiseize).
@@AKJeeper I thought that's what it was but was reluctant to say
A Ford dealer near me wanted to charge 312.0 labor to change the spark plugs on my 09 Forrester. :o (of course I told them where to stick their spark plugs)
I understand that people need to make a living...but I also understand that not everyone has that kind of money to spend on something as relatively simple as a spark plug change. $312 labor seems excessive to me, especially considering that a handy DIY-er can tackle this task without a problem in under an hour.
just curious about the mesh filter medium located just downstream of the engine air filter, any comment on it's purpose?
Most vehicles have some sort of screen to protect the mass air flow sensor and engine from large debris. I can't think of why else these mesh screens would be there.
dear my friend I have a Subaru forester 2009 14000 mile its give me a engine light seen is like catalyst convert error code p0420 do you think if I chance the spark plug before or replace the upfront exhaust catalyst convert thank I will appreciate
Great video!!! How similar is the XT version to this NA video?
Thanks!
Well do 👌🏻thanks
Great vid, thanks!
Good job man, thanks alot
To anyone watching contemplating ding this job - take the battery out. It's a 5 minute task and makes the job so much easier. In any case, the earth (negative) terminal of the battery should at least be removed when working on car electrics.
solid instruction!
Thank you
Thanks for the great Video. I'll definitely do this job myself on my Forester 2010 and save the money and feel proud at the end. I noticed something which is a filter that I've never seen in my car. I have replaced the air filter a number of times but never seen the white mesh filter inside the movable part that you're holding in the air 22:30. I usually just replace the bottom filter (you're holding it here 22:47 ). Am I missing a part here or is this a 2009 feature?
If you do not see the white mesh filter in the "Air Intake Cleaner Upper Case Box" then you can replace it. I found a genuine Subaru part on Ebay for $151.25. The part number is 46051FG000. There are cheaper options from aftermarket companies as well as used versions.
www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-2009-2018-Subaru-Forester-Air-Intake-Cleaner-Upper-Case-Box-NEW-46051FG000/202105463548?fits=Model%3AForester%7CMake%3ASubaru&epid=1230954641&hash=item2f0e6ca2fc:g:GSAAAOSwr8xaAKP~
Thanks again
Will the spark plug boot rip when you pull it out of the engine?happened to me on my Hyundai elantra, while doing ignition coil
They aren’t supposed to tear when being pulled out of the engine. You need to exercise care when removing them, however. If they seem stuck, a gentle twisting motion might be necessary while pulling back on the boots.
Awesome awesome video Brotha!
You're very welcome! Thanks for the positive comment!
Excellent vid..but why are you using imperial measurement tools when the subaru is metric? Oh and would this vid apply to a 2007 forester as well. great stuff!
Jj Sands Spark Plugs hex sizes are largely standardized. Sort of like wheel diameters. The Subaru is a metric car yet it has wheels that are measured in inches (e.g. 15 inch, 16 inch). Same thing with spark plugs. Most common spark plug hex sizes are 5/8, 3/4, 13/16, 14mm, and 18mm. And yes the Procedure is virtually the same with the Forester. Hope this answers your questions! Have a great day!
In the airbox, you have an additional feature on the engine side (the part you removed with the mass air filter) of the replaceable air filter, what is that?
Many vehicles have some sort of additional filter or screen in front of the mass air flow sensor. The MAF sensor is very sensitive and easily disturbed by contaminants contacting it. This filter is just an added layer of protection in case the main air filter element fails.
@@AKJeeper thanks for the response, I was wondering as I've never seen this in my own '09 Forester
What you need to do is clean the engine bay
Would this all be pretty much the same process on a 2.5xt in the SH format? I have a 2010 2.5xt and is in need of this job. Want to tackle it myself rather than paying hundreds at the dealership... Thanks in advance. Great video.
This is a very similar process for doing spark plugs across all models of 4 cyl Subarus. Some have spark plug wires, and some have ignition coils over every spark plug. I’m not quite sure what you mean by SH format.
@@AKJeeper I should have said generation rather than format. 09 - 13 are the SH gen. The XT has ignition coils. I'm getting some misfires when I'm driving slow with little accelerator pressure so I'm gunna start with new plugs because it probably needs them anyways. It actually stalled on my yesterday when I was backing out of the driveway without touching the gas. If it keeps up, I'll probably need to replace the coils as well.
Hey ive heard not to use anti seize on the plugs? Is that only on non oem plugs?
It's one of those things that people have argued about ever since spark plugs were made. Some manufacturers suggest not using any anti seize on their plugs, claiming that their coating on the threads is 'enough' to prevent the plugs from getting stuck. Others suggest that it affects the heat range or ability of the spark plug to dissipate heat. My own opinion is that a very minimal amount of anti seize is a good thing...many people go wrong by putting way too much on the threads. I've come across many vehicles where the spark plugs seized to the engine and were very difficult to remove. A little bit of anti seize would have made the difference in those cases. You'd really be OK either way, it's just a personal preference IMHO - do whatever you're comfortable with. I find it's far more important to make sure that your spark plugs are torqued properly, please make sure you follow that step, if nothing else.
AKJeeper i also think i may need to replace the spark plug gaskets on my subaru, can i do that without having to tear apart my engine bay? I know i have to remove the rocker cover to expose the gasket, would that be something that would be relatively simple (dont have to take out a bunch of stuff just to undo it)
I'm assuming you're talking about the spark plug tube seals? That's a very common issue on these Subarus, and can cause the spark plug wells to fill up with oil and be the cause of a misfire condition. Fortunately, it's not too bad of a job...each rocker cover (aka: valve cover) is held on by something like 5 or 8 bolts, and perhaps the oil fill tube on one side. If memory serves - the driver's side is a bit tighter for access, but can still be done given enough patience. Once that's removed - the spark plug tube seals are exposed and can be easily removed by hand. This is a good time to replace the valve cover gasket as well - another common source for Subaru oil leaks. It's a relatively simple job, but a little time consuming.
AKJeeper thank you so much! Will get working on this asap. Great video too! I guess ill type here if i run into any issues but should be good to go
AKJeeper is there any special way to pull out the wires from the head? Or just yank on them? And just push them back in to connect them? Also should i put anything on them when i put them back in? Any grease? Sorry for bothering you!
These are Platinum spark plugs or Iridium? thanks for video ;)
Vaja Labadze I posted info and links in the video description. The factory plugs on this car are NGK Laser Platinum.
Have same forester has ur valve gasket on driver side started leaking
larata9 no the valve cover gaskets on this car are not leaking. It is an extremely common issue, though. You're often see oil in the spark plug tube and possibly an external leak too.
I understand his perspective about not using too much anti seize, however I do believe that it is copper based, therefore shouldn’t the conductivity be better than normal?
The most common Antiseize products are either copper or nickel based. The issue is not with conductivity, but rather too much in the threads can affect the overall torque value of the spark plug. I use the antiseize as a measure to prevent the plugs from getting stuck (very common issue in my climate). Also - too much on the threads could actually prevent the spark plug from seating properly in the cylinder head, which is why I state not to use too much. A little goes a long way.
dont you get a problem with so much oil burn....my oil reserve decreases over time
why your engine so dusty ?
wish my xt was this roomy
How often do you change the plugs and wires?
I recommend replacing the spark plugs at 50,000 mile intervals. Spark plug wires should be inspected at every spark plug interval. If any damage is found, replace them. Otherwise, I recommend replacing them every 100,000 miles.
AKJeeper thanks again! Just did this on Monday!
How well did this vehicle run with the wide plug gaps?
Bill Safreed not well. It had a harsh misfire on cylinder 1. The wide gap caused the spark energy to seek ground elsewhere, in this case, by burning a hole in the spark plug boot (I have a separate video on that). The vehicle was also a little difficult to start when cold, and fuel mileage dropped off considerably.
Terrible valve 1 misfired ,hessitated and lose power
Mine was experiencing and hesitation on re-accelleration at highway speeds. In other words if I had get off the accellerator, and then re-apply, the drivetrain would stutter a bit. New plugs solved that issue.
DO NOT USE ELECTRICAL TAPE! If the tape fails to hold the extension or universal in you will extremely screwed. The electrical tape will ball up and prevent you from putting the extension back on. You will spend hours with you fingers down the spark plug hole trying to fix the mess you put yourself it.
Tip: Instead of tape you can put the spark plug half in the socket. the rubber will still hold it in place and one you have tightened it in a couple turns you can pull it out. Complete the rest of the turns using a deep 5/8" socket
ENGINE WASH PLEASE, YOUR MOTOR SAID....
EMIL SIGN-AUT It’s not my car, otherwise the engine compartment would be cleaner. Dusty compartments are typical here in Alaska, kind of the nature of things here being that we have lots of dirt or gravel roads here.
JUZ KIDDING
For those who do not have a spark plug tool / wrench: th-cam.com/video/0f1_cVd0JIM/w-d-xo.html
You were definitely thinking outside of the box!