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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 เม.ย. 2023
- My perfumery course: www.perfumerystudent.com/
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My perfume brand: zur.ai/
Original reddit post with the formula: / versace_the_dreamer_vi...
Watch my video on GCMS in perfumery: • How perfumers reproduc...
Join our community of perfume makers on discord: / discord
Listen to the video as a podcast: anchor.fm/sam-macer
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@sam.macer - / sam.macer
@zurai.official - / zurai.official
@thefragrancefoundry - / thefragrancefoundry
Starting your own perfume brand? I host my online store with Shopify: shopify.pxf.io/jryWdn
The dreamer is nostalgia in a bottle. Absolute love for me.
Thanks for this quality content Sam. I really appreciate it.
Thank you!
Thank you for sharing Sam , we have learned a lot ❤
Great video Sam, I’m really learning a lot from your content. Thank you 🤙
That’s great to hear
That was very interesting breakdown of your results, hope you'll keep doing videos like this. Especially the fact that base just fallen apart compared to original, very interesting observation.
Thank you!
❤ Great formulation Versace owner would love it
Great video as always. One of the last things you mentioned was constructing the base of a composition. I am always thinking of the base/dry down and often start there and work my way up. My thinking is that’s what is left and what lasts the longest so I really focus on a beautiful base that’s not just functional. I’m also a big vintage perfume lover and most of the time the dry down of older compositions are just incredible and are my favorite part. Miss Dior for instance the texture in the base and throughout is so beautiful.
Anyway I’m gonna give this formula a try. Thanx
That’s a great way to work! And another reason you might notice that is things like oakmoss used to be less restricted
@@sammacer it works well for me most of the time. I use a lot of “real” oakmoss in my work. And I have 2 lines, one not IFRA compliant, one that is. I have a gluten allergy and so I look at the ingredients in the foods I eat I think perfumery should be the same. We need to educate people about raw materials so they can make an informed decision. Anyway now I’m ranting about IFRA soo I’ll shut up now haha.
My initial impression of the modern formulation was that it smelled like lavender sugar water with a side of bad breath. 😂 How lovely. Seriously though, it did grow on me and lost that halitosis thing. In the air it really is quite sweet. What a great vid Sam! Just goes to show how arbitrary some note pyramids can be.
Hahaha 😂
As always excellent in your discussions and can't wait for the next lecture..dear sam im wondering if the available formulas from diy fragrance are in drops or grams..just thinking of doing them as you post them but im not sure how to aproach the formula. Definitely ill try your formulation for Versace Dreamer which is easy:)
Thank you so much for all this knowlowge man!
Hugs from Brasil!
Interesting! Will you do a similar video for his ADG formula?
Potentially - if this video does well and lots of people want it then sure. I’d have to order in the missing raw materials
Amazing content. Anyway can you cover about perfume maturation process and its importance? I dont understand how vintage perfume can be a thing
You can think of perfume like food. Sometimes it gets better over time like wine, other times worse like fruit. It’s unique for each perfume since it’s composed of different ingredients!
@@sammacer alright. Ill keep that analogy in mind. Thanks Sam
This would be a great concept to really dive into Sam. With your science background, it would be really interesting to hear some of if any science the industry has on this (I don’t believe you have an entire video on this entirely)
Specifically what occurs during maceration on a molecular level. How times impacts this. Etc.
The best explanation I’ve heard as to why it strengthens a perfume was on Sarah McCartney’s channel. Basically more of the aroma molecules (atoms?) bind with the alcohol, so more aroma molecules catch a ride with the evaporated alcohol molecules.
Thanks!
I am in my older years, and I am just discovering a new passion. Fragrances. And I was thinking about how are fragrances are produced, and after searching I came to your channel. I love it. However the process is too complex for me.
Yesterday I received my samples from off your site. I have not tried them yet but I am looking forward to the day.
"I love your content"
Thank you for ordering my samples, I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Can you try to make a cocoa base sweet gourmand perfume? A video would be much appreciated
In regards to beginning note list- I have allowed friends to test some of my fragrances, and it is interesting the notes they pick up.
One they described as vineyard, grapes, floral. Another as buttered popcorn ( which was the pineapple accord). Neither grapes, vineyards or buttered popcorn were used 😂
So I think the evaluator or test groups they use just describe the notes, or in this case the customers on fragrantica, they pick up, not what’s actually in it.
Actually eye opening, and something I will use in the description, rather than just the actual notes.
Legendary fragrance
Great Video and information, do you have any idea where to find other compositions that have been discontinued? I like some things they don't make anymore that probably aren't even that good, but for nostalgia I love them and I'm just kind of milking the half empty 10 year old bottles at this point. Appreciate your content man!
Haha it’s not that easy I’m afraid. Companies would never share that information. The only way to get it would be to pay for a lab with the right expertise to to a GCMS analysis and interpretation on your sample.
Great work! Love and respect from India 🇮🇳
Thank you
Which is the best way to recreate a discontinued perfume if you have a little sample? Chemical analysis first?
Its a perfume that I love so much that I could try if its a way to achieve that or to find somebody else to do it for me!
Awesome video Sam! What do you do with your trial blends? I have so many and dont just want to throw them out.
I throw most of them out after a month or so
Brooo i adoore ur videos so badd , bro plss can you make a video of you making this "jpg le male essance de parfum"
Can you make a video with the “Versace Eros” formula? if it's possible, thanks
Can you please make a tutorial on how to make Paco Rabanne Pour Homme? 😀 💚
It's my dream to recreate this fragrance and turn it into a perfume concentrate and maybe a add a personal touch like a dark ink accord. This way I won't have to worry that the fragrance will be discontinued.
Hello, really can I make a good perfume with only essential oils,alcohol and propilenglycol? Without synthetics?
"I followed the recipe except..." LOL Thanks for the video. I do enjoy, and learn from your content.
Haha well, does anyone always have everything for a formula? 😂
why you dont use everything neat? (with exception of Aldehydes or powders), is it to macerate faster? Great formula :)
Great video thanks for sharing! What about a tobacco accord with various synthetics in the base? There also seems to be a coconut type note in the base as well to my nose as an owner of the Dreamer bottle.
Good question! I don’t smell coconut myself but I can for sure see that a trace of tobacco might be used, I can see it flying under the GC radar. Another possibility is that the tobacco note is a complete fabrication since I didn’t smell it and none of the raw materials in the formula suggest it.
@@sammacer you are right it is possible as you mentioned there is no tobacco note, but maybe the missing base note is Okoumal in trace amounts? it is ambery and provides volume and lasts a long time. As for the coconut maybe its a coumarin/tonka/dihydrocoumarin note that I am smelling. Excellent work and thank you for sharing!
I’d love it if you could break down Diorissimo. It has become a holy grail for me. I cannot nail that super strong Lily of the Valley smell. I think I have all the relevant ingredients ( I even have a small amount of Lyral) but I can never get that absolute freshness. If you could unlock the puzzle I would be eternally grateful.
I'm sorry but I haven't smelled it and know nothing of the formula
Good stuff my guy
Thank you
More please
A bit off topic as a far as Versace goes, but have you made a video about Metallic scented molecules in perfumery? I find this interesting as I've always been drawn to that type of scent. Reminds me of the smell of just slept in sheets but with a fresh "cold" kind of thing about it. Hard to explain, but I would be so interested in hearing about your take on this and perhaps what volatile molecules produce this type of effect.
Try Adoxal
@@sammacer I will! Thank you for the suggestion.
are these numbers after the hyphen (-) the number of the drops??
Can you make a video about making fragrance for in a car
What causes the longevity in a perfume on skin? I've had the old formulation and the new of The Dreamer. The new formulation smells very (I'd say 95%) similar to the old. But where as old scent was easily 10 hour fragrance the new one only last for about 3 hours... What is the cause of that and why do they do it so it doesn't perform as well as the old one.
There are many factors which contribute - check out my video on longevity
Nice video Sam 😀 i wonder if with an GC analyses one can realy pickout the accords?? Assuming they used accords.
No, you can't. A GCMS doesn't even show you what naturals have been used. Essential oils, absolutes, etc. consist of many chemicals. A portion of those will show up in the GCMS (low amounts don't show up at all). You will have to deduce from the amounts and proportions and the known concentrations of the constituents in the naturals (there are databases for that) what naturals are responsible for those chemicals and in which amount. If only one or two naturals have been used it's doable for an amateur but for three, four or more than that, you'll need an expert.
Accords won't show up at all; just the percentages of the aroma chemicals and chemicals making up the naturals.
BTW: I downloaded this formula a week or so ago and put it in my folder "NON GCMS" because I read in that Reddit post (IIRC) that this formula is just a free interpretation of the perfume and not based on a GCMS (unlike a few others in the same subreddit that _are_ based on a GCMS).
@@peewee678 exactly what i mean 👍🏼
@@peewee678 ps, what is the link to the Reddit site were the formulas can be found?
@@willemjansen307 Every time I post a link on YT, even a very obfuscated one, my comments disappear from the face of the earth... Drives me nuts so I don't post linkshere anymore (otherwise I would have posted a link to the Naturals Database). it's ridiculous. In this case I think I can say: Google for DIYfragrance in combination with Reddit. Let's see if this comment lives longer than 3 minutes.
@@peewee678 very intresting
i really liked the old batch of dreamer
A shame I couldn’t get the sample for it
Most perfumes have over 20 raw materials in it. Is it easy to make the difference between a perfume that as a lot of raw material in its composition and one with let's say 10 raw materials ?
As a perfumer, no it isnt always easy to tell, alot of cases yes, but there are some that have been blended so well that you wouldnt know that it was made with 10 or less materials. I could whip up something quick with say aldambre, muscone, phenoxy ethyl iso butyrate, dynascone, guaiol, and amyl butyrate (these are just somethings that i threw together but would blend) dosing them in the correct way you would swear that theres cedarwood, guaiacwood, vanilla, honey, leather, smoke, tonka bean pineapple, banana, peach and rose in it. As in to get some of those smells you could add an individual ac's with an individual characteristic of 20+ and get the same result if its dosed properly.
Hello! Tell us how the green apple perfume accord is composed?
Try fructone and hexyl acetate as a starting point
please create and find bvlgari blv pour homme vintage formulation
Hi, Sam! I need your Perfumery App but for Windows and Play Store!
I’m working on a solution
@@sammacer And other thing, Sam. In your website, the selection for money, you don't have the conversion to Euros in Portugal.
Would you please link this thread or formulas?
Thanks for reminding me, I've added it to the video description :)
Is the android app released? Waiting for it
Nope
@@sammacer bro when will it launch? Waiting for it
Hi Sam I am trying to link to your discord channel but I cannot access it. Any advice?
The link in the description of all my recent videos should work
@@sammacer Thanks
Try to replicate aventus man!
💕💕💕💕
Do I spy with my little eye Un Jardin en Méditerranée ??
I really like the theme here. Aventus next ..😅
Haha maybe one day
This video would have been much more interesting had you used all of the complete list of ingredients and accurate no substitutions
I will take note. If this video is very popular then I could order some things in the future to make it as complete as possible. There always seems to be something very niche and difficult / expensive to obtain which is why I haven’t before.
Lyral, mugwort and tarragon definitely make a big difference in this formula. Lyral and Tonalid have a unique synergy for long-drying men's soap.
It is quite likely that it has other unidentified components that modify the fragrance, such as Heliotropex and Adoxal, etc.
Thank you very much for this video. but maybe you have to stay up late to work, please balance your work and health Sam.
Thanks! Haha do I look super tired or something?
@@sammacer yub
The original version was out of this world. I was 10yo when it came out but remember it so much from when we used to use my cousins all the time. The new version is trash
The new version is not trash but its ur childhood memories that are associated with it. Same like ps5 and ps1.
Hinestly you crate good content, but "Lux E terra" doesnt sound premium, not really Burgeois.
Nice Sam - unfortunately, this perfume blows! Generic, over coumarin'ed fougere! Was disappointed with this buy. At least, easy enough to replicate by nose...
Regardless, would love to see this as a series!
Yeah not the best - I chose it based on having the raw materials rather than the smell (I’d never smelled it before). But I’m glad I did it!
@@sammacer It inspired me to have a go at formulating (by nose) one of my all time favourites last night, Versace pour homme.
Would absolutely love these re-creations to be a major theme, lots to be learned from this. Thanks Sam!
if you would summarise or maybe even just talk less and have shorter videos you'd reach a much wider audience, yuor videos are too long for most